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Hi, currently I'm helping a friend regarding his pc build which does not boot. The components: - Mainboard: N7 Z790 - CPU: i9 (exact model not present at the moment) - CPU cooler: NZXT Kraken 280 - RAM: 2x 16 GB Fury from Kingston Direct after turning on, the LED for CPU and RAM is on. I changed the ram, but the same happens. The orignal build was done by the friend so I do not know what exactly happened during build. I completely disassambled everything and checked the cpu on the motherboard, removed every not needed cable, but still the same. After running the mainboard, cpu, cooling and ram outside of the case, I can hear that the pump on the cpu is "running" but except some led light of the cpu cooler. Since ram was changed and the mainboard was sent to the seller and came back without any repair the only problem could be the cpu or the cpu cooler. Or am I wrong? Thanks a lot for your help and suggestions.
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So I was taking the cpu cooler off because my dram and cpu lights were light up. And I took it off and this happened. I heard pliers and screw driver will work but I don't have pliers right now.
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I've tried multiple registry tweaks, forcing the indexing service to try and rebuild, restarting multiple times. The only thing I haven't done is a full reinstall, and that's not something I want to do lightly. I tried starting the service manually via services.msc but I get a Code 1053 error each time. UPDATE: I fixed it by multiple restarts and uninstalling a weird patch I had put in around when the service broke. I hate Windows.
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Hello my brother just got a new pc and it has 2 samsung 990 pro nvme 1 1tb and 1 2tb now i installed samsung magician for him but it only shows the 1tb and not the 2tb m.2 and i dont know how to fix this hope someone can help. It runs on windows 11. And the 1tb is the C drive i did add the 2tb later in the storage management dont know if that is usefull to know but i thought i just add it. Thanks for all the help
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Hello my pc restarts but gives black screen when i game for like 5 minutes when i use occt cpu test works fine mem test works to but when i use gpu test my pc crashes it gives kernelpower event in the logs i already switched the psu but doesnt work i have amd ryzen 9 5950x gigabyte 3080 waterforce wb samsung m.2 980 pro 1tb and 500 gb corsair 1000 watt Rmx and my temps dont get higher like 45° It seems like the pc restart but keeps the screen on black 1 time it restarted and it was a normal restart
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I reinstall my window 11 and got VGA Light Code and 70 black screen. My Pc has the latest bios. Do I might need to revert it back because I am currently only had this issue after. I have another post that was about my random crashes . But after reinstall and update bios I am now currently stuck here. Gaming PC CPU - Ryzen 9 7950X Motherboard- Asus ROG Crosshair X670E Hero Ram - G. SKill Ripjaw s5 128GB 4x 32GB 5200 DDR5 GPU - Zotac Gaming Geforce RTX 3090 Ti Case Thermaltake w200 Duel System PC Problem solved was bios I downgraded to build before latest and everything works.
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Hi all, bad timing for a GPU to stop working, I know... I have an old R9 270x (not a hard core gamer, so, its (or was) powerful enough for my gaming demands) and since my PC didn't have an wifi interface and my ethernet connection is a bit far from the place where I have the PC (wife doesn't like wires in the floor), I bought a pcie wifi card. When I installed the card I noticed I got no signal on the monitor.. weird, so I checked if the card was not in place and found nothing wrong. With the tower open I noticed that no fan in the GPU was working. So I removed everything from the motherboard that was not essencial (left: CPU, memory, 1 ssd, GPU) and nothing, no signal from GPU, no GPU fan spinning, nothing... I started diagnosing the problem, at a BIOS level I can only find that the 3.3v is beneath 3V, in windows, the card is nowhere to be found (device manager). I checked the 8 pin (4x2) from the power supply that feeds the card is all within the "legal" 12 v range (multimeter). The only pcie device I have with me is the wifi card (that is working correctly) so I connected the card to the pcie 16x slot of the GPU and it doesn't work either (although the device manager is able to detect the card, its unable to start it). I only have one pci-e 16x slot in this motherboard and this is my only GPU I have. So, my questions: Is the low 3.3v detected by the motherboard can cause a GPU to stop working? Is it possible to determine, for sure that the GPU failed and has to be replaced without having to leave home? (although I will not buy anything right now to replace it) I'm able to check a lot of videos on how to diagnose the GPU, can you guys point me to one that is reliable? Can I do anything else to make a better diagnostic? Thanks, LPine Here are my poor man specs CPU: i5-4460 CPU @ 3.20GHz Memory: 8 GB DDR3 Motherboard: H81M-C Graphics Card: Gigabyte Radeon R9 270X OC 4GB GDRR5 Wi-Fi Card: Intel AX200 Power Supply: Thermaltake Berlin 630W
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Hey, so this started happening about three weeks ago when i realized that a cold boot works fine for 8-10 mins then my PC restarts itself once and then i was able to play for 8 hours straight no problem. I didn't gave this problem much attention at that time for which i now regret heavily. A week or so later, this changed to 2 restarts after a cold boot, so like it will work perfectly fine for 8-10 mins, then it restarts itself and once it reaches the windows logo, it restarts one more time and then its good to go. Now, it just boots completely from a cold boot and will let me run windows for about 6-8 mins and then it'll restart itself, and as soon as the windows 10 logo appears, it again restarts and the same thing keeps going on, it gets stuck in this loop. I went to a local Computer Repair shop and the guy checked my ram, GPU, PSU and Storage Devices. Now he is completely clueless about the problem but i suspect its either the CPU or my motherboard. Please help me diagnose the problem and suggest a nice cheap fix if you can that'll be awsome
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Hi guys. I got my first gaming computer (Acer nitro 5 i59300h and a gtx1650) and it runs anything I want perfectly. I mostly play games from around 2014 and such. The only annoying thing I am facing is RAC. The audio console detects when I plug my hs in and asks what type of thing is it (headset, headphones, speaker, microphone) so I select headphones. It works fine until i unplug it for whatever reason like watching a lecture, but when i plug it in again i dont get a detection. I open realtek audio console but then it infinitely loads. The only fix is by signing out and signing in again (not locking the user account). My laptop is Win10. TLDR I have realtek audio console on my laptop, it detects when i plug in a device from the aux port, but after disconnecting and reconnecting after an hour it wont detect anything. have to restart my laptop or sign out and sign in again for it to work. i just want for it to automatically use it as a headphone port like any other laptop. its really annoying rac = realtek audio console btw
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- audio
- realtek audio console
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So i have a brand new X570-A pro from msi and ive paired it up with a 5000 series AMD processor. I already have the cpu installed and all other components, but when i press the flashback button with my USB-drive in the flashback port it dosen't work. I don't have access to a 3000 series processor either so im stuck here right now. Any tips or help is grately appreciated.
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- x570-a pro
- bios
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My computer recently stopped turning on but my psu ram and cpu still work. When i click the on button non of the fans spin but the motherboard lights up with a green light and i dont know what that means
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Does anyone know what's going on or knows when AMD's site will be back online, I've had this problem when I try to launch Radeon so I can't update but I'm also assuming since the website is down that is not an option anyways.
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i tried opening a "usf" file with gimp… didnt work, but now it shows the gimp icon for all usf files… i guess i could change it back to default (nothing) in registry, but how?
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HI. No idea if this is the right thread for this, but here goes. I have 2 laptops that I could select from when buying. One has the rtx 3070 and the other the rtx 3080 laptop videocard. Both cards run at 105 watts. The CPU is identical in both laptops and is stock. It is the Intel Core i7-10870H. The laptops have identical 1080p 144hz displays. Will there be any bottlenecks here on any of these two laotops? What about if I connect my 1440p 60hz monitor to any of these two laptops? Thanks.
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- windows 10
- ameliorated
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So i have built my first pc, using the new 3070 i got my hands on. I hava a dual monitor setup. The GPU usage sometime spikes to 100% while playing star citizen, and it shows on my second monitor, decoloration, and blips usually. They only last for some seconds, and wonder if this is normal, or there is a way to fix this? Thanks.
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Hello there, When I came back the screen of my computer would not turn on but it played the sound of somebody openning csgo cases so I forcefully shut it down with the power button and now when I try to boot it stays stuck on the DRAM LED. I installed OBS an hour before the crash, may it be the cause ? Could it damage my PC ? I played CSGO without any issues just before leaving my computer. I managed to get into the BIOS and in AI Tweaker the voltage of the DRAM was changed to 1.35V from the 1.2V, so I reverted it but it still wont load and i can't get back into BIOS. Is there a safe way to access BIOS again ? Can I reset all parameters to factory settings without losing data ? Should I replace my RAM ? (I have the 3600 MHz version of the RAM listed below) System CPU AMD Ryzen 7 5800X Motherboard ASUS B550 F Wifi II RAM 2x16GB Kingston Fury Renegade GPU 1x Asus Strix 3070ti OC edition Case Phanteks P500 DRGB Storage 1Tb M2 NVME Samsung 980 Pro PSU Corsair HX750 Cooling Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360 ARGB
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- fixed
- bios update
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Hi I'm helping my brother with a computer upgrade and ran into a problem this evening with trying to put the Hyper 212 EVO v2 on his new ASUS ROG Strix B550-A Gaming motherboard. The posts that are supposed to secure the back bracket to the MB refused to tighten and felt like there was maybe 1-2 mm of thread required to make the them fit on the board. Part of the bracket was also dangerously close of a bank of capacitors and I felt like that might cause a problem. I did what I usually do in these cases and tried to Google if anyone else had similar problems. The only thing I could find was a reddit thread for an ASUS ROG Strix X570 motherboard where the OP ended up deciding that the cooler wouldn't work with their motherboard. I tried looking for a compatibility list for the B550 to see which coolers would work but everything I could find told me the Hyper 212 Evo V2 should work. Am I missing something is there a washer or something I need to add clearance to the posts?
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Hello There ! I am trying to connect my Corsair HX750 PSU to an Asus 3070ti Strix OC GPU. This GPU requires 3x8pin PCIE. My problem is that the PSU only came with 2 splitted PCIE power cables. I plan on using one cable in a 1 to 1and the other cable in a 1 to 2 daisy chain. I understood from what I read that this solution will lower the performances of the GPU. Can it also be dangerous for the GPU or the GPU lifespan ? Can I wire the GPU like this only for a temporary solution ? I have 4 PCIE/CPU outputs on the Corsair HX750 PSU, I could buy another PCIE cable to plug into my GPU but my mother board has a 4+8EPS/12V. Do you think the mobo needs the 4+8 EPS or can I only plug 8EPS in the mobo and use a PCIE slot on the PSU for an additional PCIE for my GPU ? The specs : CPU : AMD Ryzen 7 5800X Motherboard : ASUS Strix B550 F Wifi II RAM : 2x16GB Kingston Fury Renegade GPU : 1x Asus Strix 3070ti OC edition Case : Phanteks P500A DRGB Storage : M2 NVME Samsung 980 Pro 1TB PSU : Corsair HX750 Cooling : Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360 ARGB Fans : 4x140 mm Phanteks
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Hi my Razer Cynosa Lite is spamming the ` key and no matter what I try I can't fix it. Things I have tried - I have opened up my keyboard to check for physical problems. - I have ran the windows keyboard troubleshoot at least 5 times. - I have tried my keyboard on other computers and it has not had the same problem. - I have tried other keyboards on my computer and the problem still shows. - I have tried gotten so desperate that I tried taking out my RAM sticks, switching slots and trying them out at one at a time (I have a 2x16gb pair) - I have reinstalled windows and the problem persists. I believe that it is something to do with my computers hardware because the problem only happens on it, switching keyboards doesn't help and a full disk wipe doesn't help. I have had this problem a few weeks ago but then it held down the control key and not the ` key. PC specs AMD Ryzen 5600x AMD Radeon rx5600xt Gigabyte Aourus X570 elite HyperX 32gb 3600mhz RAM 2x16gb GameMax iceberg 240mm AIO Toshiba 1tb HDD HP 128gbM.2 SSD GameMax 750w PSU
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I recently got a new case the Asus ROG Strix Helios, I am very impressed how everything is so easy to install into that case. But the problem I am having right now is that the GPU Temperature is spiking up so high that I can barely run games without the fans going 100% and GPU temps reaching a new high (90 to 95C) I had a very old case from corsair were it was just falling apart which is why I needed a new Case. Temps were fine before. Is there anything I can do to resolve this? Specs GPU: Asus8GB D5X GTX 1080 STRIX AG CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 2700X + Stock Cooler Ram: 32GB
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Ok. I'm having this really concerning problem with my computer that I have recently built. I have used this pc for about a month now and I just got a new optical drive to install. Once I installed it, my computer looks like it boots up fine and the optical drive seems to function as well. However no post screen is shown on my monitor anymore and my rgb keyboard and mouse dont light up. I double checked that my cables are correct and even unplugged and replugged everything back and still no post screen. Please I need help My specs are: Gigabyte B550 Aorus Elite Amd Ryzen 5 5600x G.Skill Trident Z Neo 32GB Nvidia GeForce RTX 3060 Corsair RM 750x Asus 24x Dvd-RW Optical drive
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I will do my best to write this out as coherent and understandable as possible for those that run into this issue in the future. Issue: PC won't boot windows, get error code 0xc00000e Trying automatical startup repair gets me: C/Windows/system32/logfiles/srt/srtTrail.txt This is NOT a tutorial how to fix the actual issue causing those error codes, they turned out to be a symptom of a different issue. So unless you did the following to cause that, what I will do next is probably not your solution, tread carefully. The cause: I wanted to install windows on a new SSD for a PC, I didn't want to lug all my equipment (monitor, keyboard, mouse) to it and install directly on the PC. So I put it into my main PC (yes, I am a magnet for dumb ideas) and started the windows install on the new SSD as normal. But here's the most important bit: After the usual initial windows install and the first shutdown, it restarts back up on the thumb drive "install windows" window. I thought it might've failed so I tried again and it goes off without a hitch, fresh windows is up. The problem: Shutting down the PC, I take out the SSD, and boot my PC, I am promptly presented with (refer to issues section) errors. I tried the following: (I'll just post links to videos and articles I followed to no avail.) https://youtu.be/ZZBOdeTF5Iw https://www.makeuseof.com/fix-windows-10-error-code-0xc00000e/#:~:text=But the error code 0xc00000e,system files are usually stored. https://softwarekeep.com/help-center/fix-fixboot-access-is-denied-windows Pre Solution: (skip a bit further down for what I did) There was a new recovery partition in my main SSD, I often try new dumb things and break things so I frequent the partitions on my drive and there was most definitely only ONE (1) windows recovery partition. Very suspicious. I actually found this almost immediately into the problem so I googled what would happen if I deleted recovery. Many articles said it was common to have more than one recovery and deleting them is bad. I didn't actually want to break windows beyond repair so I took all (refer to "I tried the following" section) the steps I could think of to get it working and nothing worked. Solution: The new recovery partition only had like 25mb used out of 500+mb allotted to it while the other one had 600ish out of 650ish mb. Using the windows install media, at the "choose drive to install windows" I deleted the recovery partition. Post solution: I fully expected the same results as before, infact I thought I actually broke windows and it won't boot into error at all. But lo n behold, windows loads like I didn't just spend 2 days trouble shooting it. My final thoughts and reasoning to issue: I think that I may have selected an old partition I made with a different project to install windows. Although I am very sure I chose the correct drive. And it tried to install on that, after rebooting it booted into the thumb drive from boot priority. I then selected the correct drive and things went fine. Windows ended up making only a small part of the full system on the main SSD, trying to boot into my regular windows it would choose the "infant" everytime, and because it wasn't actually functional, it errored out, and because it wasn't complete, any attempts at rebuilding windows didn't work. I am mainly posting this for myself and for others that have this exact very Niche issue. Thanks for reading and I hope I helped
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- bricked windows10
- installing windows
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So 2 years back I got my GTX 1060 and decided to change the thermal paste on it. Unknowingly I threw out one thermal pad that fell on the floor mistaking it for gum. I had a i5 7600 non K version and it was doing okay but the cpu was a bottleneck. So a month ago I decided to pull the trigger and get the MPG Z390 Carbon Pro AC and i5 9600K. As you do I reinstalled windows and all my shit. It worked fine for 2 weeks and then while playing GTA 5 online framespiking started, I open msi afterburner and frametime spikes go over 300ms and frames drop under 10fps(that was in the city in GTA 5). It goes to normal for few seconds and happens again. Checked the temps and they were around 60-65 C mark. I decided to change out the paste just as a precaution and I find one missing thermal pad. I get one and fit it in the place. And still same stuff. Went with older drivers and still same. Downclocked it and still same. Tried games from my SSD and still same. Will try friend's GPU this friday. If anyone has anything hit me up. Games become unplayable when it happens. Specs: MPG Z390 Carbon Pro AC i5 9600k @ 5.1GHz @1.30v GTX 1060 6GB G1 Gaming HyperX Fury 8GB DDR4 @2666MHz 1TB WD Purple 120GB Kingston SSD Thermal Take 730W Smart SE EDIT: After everybody telling me it was my PSU I formatted everything I had and reinstalled. So turns out my HDD was bad. Now everything is working as it should. Thanks to all for their input.
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Ok, so I posted my first thread showing off my new rig and introducing myself, which you can find here . I also put on there what had happened and my troubleshooting. After the the removal of my 1TB NVME and install of my new 500GB NVME, I only had a few issue's with the PC freezing. Then came the "windows quality update". So much for quality. I started having BSOD again. I removed the latest quality update and as I was trying to do research for an essay I have to write and installing MS Office Pro 2013, I get a BSOD. I have spent a long time trying to figure out what is wrong and I will admit that some of the troubleshooting left me feeling pretty dumb. I am at my last resort and that is to ask for help from someone on this forum. I got desperate enough to google how to send Linus Tech Tips my PC to see if they would troubleshoot it for me lol. Here are the 2 ZIP folders (SysnativeFileCollectionAPP and PERFMON) https://drive.google.com/open?id=1zeIRg9cl6UUB0YTFEQIRa9u3lrpc2n2- SysnativeFileCollectionApp.zip PERFMON Data 23-APR-2020.zip OS - Windows 10 x86 x64 What OS was originaly installed on the system? WIN 10 Is the OS an OEM version (came pre-installed on system) or full retail version (YOU purchased it from a retailer)? Full Retail (downloaded WIN 10 from Microsoft and bought key from Amazon) Age of system (hardware) - 15 Jan 2020 (bought) begining of February 2020 Installed Age of OS installation - have you re-installed the OS? most recent re-install was roughly 2 weeks ago CPU model - Intel i7 9700K Video Card model - EVGA 2070 Super FTW3 Ultra MotherBoard - MSI MPG Gaming Pro Carbon Power Supply - EVGA SuperNova G2 850w Gold System Manufacturer - Myself (mix of different manufacturered parts) Laptop or Desktop? Desktop