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Showing results for tags 'firmware'.
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I have a pair of Logitech Astro A30s and I'd like to modify their firmware. Tbh the headphones are pretty great for what I need! Just the firmware is sooo bad. There's weird volume changes, the headphones go to sleep if I'm too still for too long, the sound effect for connecting to a Bluetooth source is painfully loud, ect. I do have experience with programming, and I'm fairly tech savvy, but I haven't worked with firmware before. I was hoping I could get some insight from more experienced people into how difficult this will be to do, or if possible some resources on how to do this. (Also, please don't just tell me to get different headphones, I legitimately do like almost everything but the firmware, and some of the things I want from headphones are hard to find.)
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Anyone got any sources on how to obtain firmware for AVR's that Denon now deem a legacy product? Have an AVR-X2000 I picked up cheap a year and a half ago that had no HDMI output and just the other day I bought a second one that had a dead amplifier circuitry and I switched the board with the HDMI switching from this new one into my existing one which worked no bother. Unfortunately, that board also has the main processor and firmware chip on it too and its not been updated to support Spotify connect like I had done with my one. And it now refuses to update since Denon have now marked this unit as legacy since June last year according to the entirely useless Denon customer support person who also seems unable to send me the firmware directly. So now I'm torn, cause I use the Spotify connect feature more than I ever actually use the video output of the thing, but it then makes my entire purchase of the second reciever a massive waste of time and money. I also probably could locate the ROM chip on my old board and switch it to the new one, but I don't have the equiptment or skills to be able to pull off such a procedure without entirely destroying everything... It's just frustrating casue these have the ability to be updated "locally" via the web gui as far as I'm aware, and failing that, there is a USB port on the front wired up for data and I'm led to believe It can be used for updating, but Denon just seem to refuse access to the firmware. Anyway, I'd greatly appreciate it if anyone has any suggestions.
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I have 2 PCs having same motherboards "Intel DH67BL", the problem I'm facing is on the 1 of the motherboard's Intel Management Firmware Version. This is the motherboard that has the Intel Management Firmware Version which is 7.1.60.1193. And this is the 2nd motherboard that has the Intel Management Firmware Version which is 8.1.20.1336. Both motherboards have been updated to the latest bios which is BLH6710H.86A.0163. Since Intel has left providing support and drivers officially on their website, this bios and other versions of it can be found on this website: Drivers Search: DH67BL (softpedia.com) This screen shows up on that motherboard who has the Intel Management Firmware Version which is 7.1.60.1193 Upon going to the link: Update BIOS to Support 3rd Generation Intel® Core™ Processors, I've stumble upon the conclusion of updating the bios, which I did. I have updated the bios many times and even downgrading it to the previous version just to get that INTEL ME Version to 8.xxxxxx. But it isn't, any solution to this? P.S I was using a 2nd gen based core-i5 2500 on it paired with a GTX-750ti for sometime and 1 day POST screen wasn't coming up. So, I removed my GPU and plugged the monitor to the integrated one, the POST got shown.
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I have a Corsair K68 keyboard which appears to have bricked itself. I have reached out to Corsair support to try and obtain the firmware and flash it myself, and Corsair support has just stated that I am out of warranty. Wondering if anyone has any advice on how I proceed or perhaps the firmware file so I can attempt to fix this before buying a new keyboard. I saw someone have a similar issue on a corsair mouse, and they were provided with the firmware and instructions as to how to flash it. Would really appreciate any advice or firmware files. Thanks
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Hello all, I have a cisco NSS 324 with firmware 1.0 installed. Cant upgrade firmware, cisco support does not help. I want to upgrade to qnap firmware which requires me to be at 1.5. Need firmware 1.3 or 1.5.
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This might a bit too of a niche topic for most of Linus Tech Tips audience, but some still might find it interesting. There will be a coreboot hackathon on 17th of November (in 3 weeks), in Bochum, Germany. It will last over the entire weekend (until Sunday 19th). FYI: coreboot is open-source firmware (BIOS or UEFI) replacement Free snacks and drinks during the entire period. Number of tickets is limited. Ordinary ticket costs 20 Euro, for students only 10 Euro.
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Here is the issue at hand for myself. To start. I have: CPU - AMD Ryzen 5 5600G GPU - AMD Radeon RX 6600XT (XFX) Motherboard - Gigabyte B5500 UD AC Ram - 2x 8GB TeanGroup UD4 3200 DDR4 Windows 11 I've been having issues with all games and programs that use DirectX 11 will constantly hard freeze, completely crash whilst frozen, or just straight up ends the task altogether. It only happens with DX 11. All games/programs using any other DX or Vulcan work beautifully without any issue. The things I've done to try to get DX11 to work haven been: Remove GPU drivers with ddu, rollback drivers, uninstall and reinstall programs, removed over-clocks, lower the settings (which often when I would reduce settings it would crash far more frequently then when maxing settings), tried borderless, monitors, change display port cables, re-apply thermal paste on both GPU and CPU, reinstalling DX, using the CMD line to check for corruption, etc. I'm out of ideas as to how to fix the issue as I know there have been multiple threads on it in the past but I have yet to really find a direct answer that's not game specific. Help would be greatly appreciated.
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Hello! I'm (hopefully) going to be getting a NVME Samsung 980 PRO as a boot drive and ahead of time want to look for ways to improve it, so far I have noted that: -The firmware needs to be updated ASAP (something something firmware issues) -I should use some form of data migration tool to get data from my old SSD to the new one -I should try and optimise it as best as possible to get more performance (Also, I know that NVME drives aren't particularly good for boot drives but I accidentally bid on it and won ) So my question is, is it worth using the native software from Samsung or a 3rd party app like Macrium Reflect? Also, is Samsung Magician worth it? Cheers!
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I have faced the same issue. I have tried to upload the bin file and upgrade the firmware version. Process End up with My Hardware version - Archer MR200 v4 00000001 current firmware version - 1.0.0 0.9.1 v0001.0 Build 190603 Rel.60023n I need to upgrade the firmware to the newest one of V4 that was Published on 2020-06-28. URL that I have downloaded the firmware - https://www.tp-link.com/in/support/download/archer-mr200/v4/#Firmware Reason for upgrading the firmware - after I changed the wifi access password and router, it will successfully change to a new one. But when I trying to reboot the router it blinks power led only. that is the issue. after I have reset the router using the reset button and router worked finely. any one can help??
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I am, for the last few months now, been trying to learn a deeper understanding of how pcs work. Getting into OC finally after all these years. There is sssoooo much to learn. I had no idea there would be as much to OC as there is. Back to topic: Would someone care to explain the difference to me between the bios and the firmware on a gpu. Is it the same differences for motherboards and cpus? Thank you in advance.
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Summary During the OCP Regional Summit, AMD announced a plan to deprecate their current AGESA CPU firmware family, citing lack of flexibility and difficulty with scaling as the primary motivations. Replacing is is what AMD is calling "openSIL", a platform-agnostic open-source set of libraries. openSIL is not yet production-ready, and isn't expected to be until around 2026. Priority is being given to server platforms, but the intention is to eventually migrate AMD's entire processor stack. Quotes My thoughts Assuming this pans out as advertised, this could make AMD king of the coreboot community. Sources https://www.phoronix.com/news/AMD-openSIL-Replace-AGESA
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Hey LTT community. I'm wondering what should I look out for when buying a 2.5 inch SATA drive enclosure or if you have recommendations. The current one I'm using for some reason won't able to execute both long and short SATA self test from SeaTools, but it can still run generic tests. My guess is because it doesn't support some protocol? The current enclosure is using a JMS578 USB to SATA 3.0 controller
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So... I just watched today's video and got a little spooked. I was considering buying a cheap mini pc from aliexpress (e.g. like this) for me to experiment on (pfsense, homeassistant, jellyfin, etc). With the context of today's video, the recent LTT hack (and the knowledge that Luke decided to nuke the whole PC because he said it wasn't worth trying to find out if the bios got infected or not), how can I be certain that if I were to buy something like that mini pc, it'd be malware free? Or should I refrain from buying it in favor of a more reputable product from a more known brand? Since I will definitely plug this thing to the internet, I feel like I can't be too careful.
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hi friends, i'm trying to enable secure boot on my pc but it shows as unsupported even though my bios mode is on UEFI and always been on UEFI as far as i know, i've tried almost everything i found on google, reddit and other forums, hopefully i can get some help here to see if this issue has a solution or should i just give up on this as you can see, there is no secure boot option in any of the tabs, in the other tabs i won't find anything helpful either, hope to hear from you soon and thanks in advance
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Hey, everyone, can you help me with a problem with my new cooler? I swapped my h100i platinum se for a h150i elite capellix with a commander core included. It's not my first build (I've built a couple of pcs for my friends, both with h100i capellix and commander core) and everything worked properly. However, on my pc, I have this problems: Pump LED doesn't light up Cooler doesn't show up on iCue Every fan is working properly and I can change colors from iCue; also the commander shows up on iCue. I've checked CPU_FAN cable and it's properly connected. I've double checked the commander to see if the 20-something pin cable is properly connected (since you have to force it a bit) and it seems like so. Temps are fine (35 to 40 degrees on a 5900x in idle) and running a 3d mark test didn't make them raise too much (sorry, I don't remember the exact temps, but I expected it to turn off if pump isn't working). So, to me, it seems like pump is working but isn't detected and doesn't light up. I think that it's bricked but I can't update its firmware because it doesn't show on iCue. Only alternative I found is this guide https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jjGa1D6Xx7E&ab_channel=QuantumAITech but to do so I need the firmware file (which can be obtained only through iCue). So, if any of you have the same cooler (H150i Elite Capellix) can you please send me the file called like CUE{WEIRDSTUFFHERE}H150{STUFFHERE}.hex that you will find in this folder C:\Users\*USERNAME*\AppData\Local\Temp please? Any other suggestion is very appreciated! Things I've tried Double check cable connections Reinstall iCue software (both 3 and 4 version) BIOS reset Specs: Asus B450F gaming II Ryzen 9 5900x Zotac trinity OC 3080 8x2 Corsair Vengeance 3600mhz cl18 SSD M.2 Crucial P1 1TB
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- h150i elite
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Older Consumer-grade network edge hardware in the modern era
PineyCreek posted a topic in Networking
Traditionally when hardware (in particular network hardware) has been EOL'ed by a company, software support stops for it. In other words, no more updates, even security patches...with few exceptions, usually massively critical vulnerabilities. I'm used to seeing this behavior when it comes to Enterprise grade equipment, though EOL (end of life) and end of support dates are clearly communicated in living documents that are constantly updated. What do you think about the same situations in the consumer network space? It makes sense to upgrade hardware when for example ISP technology and connection requirements outstrip what your local client-owned hardware is able to handle (ex. a cable modem capable of an older DOCSIS version not meeting the requirements for the current DOCSIS version, i.e. unable to handle the required down and up channels for your subscription speed). What about for just routers? Example: I've got an ASUS RT-N66U. It does the job, and my wireless requirements are minimal as I run physical cables when I truly need low-latency and reliability. However, the natural progression dictates that standard 802.11n wireless is being replaced/has been replaced by AC, AX, WIFI 6, 6E, etc. Naturally, the N66U is already EOL, and I assume no further firmware updates are forthcoming. Other factors in this equation include third-party router firmware options, like Tomato, as well as the potential for vulnerabilities/attack vectors not covered by the last version of firmware released for your equipment. So, what would you do if you didn't need the new hotness that is the fastest wireless speeds, or you didn't want to shell out the money for new equipment? It's all subjective to your situation, I know, but I'd like your opinions. -
From the album: IdeaStormer Gallery 1
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Disclaimer: The following report was first posted on Reddit here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Dell/comments/lj5qak/xps_13_display_issue_affecting_7390_9300_and_9310/ The following findings are published after being independently verified by other users of models 9310 (clamshell and 2-in-1), 7390 2-in-1, 9300. Please help me to spread awareness for this issue so that it gets attention by Dell. If you happen to own such a device, no matter if clamshell or 2-in-1 variant, please check in your own interest whether your unit is affected too and leave a comment! Feedback from both, affected and not affected users is highly appreciated, but please make sure you explicitly tried the outlined steps to reproduce. Short description of the issue: When the machine is connected to AC without the battery being charged and CPU and RAM are stressed at the same time the display brightness starts to flicker. Turning off turbo boost or limiting cpu frequencies to 3.3Ghz makes the flickering go away. As a consequence the issue does not occur when running on battery because the cpu frequencies are limited there. Disconnecting AC power solves the issue instantly. The flickering can be very subtle as well as very noticeable and according to feedback I got from other users it may be more or less intense depending on the AC adapter you use. This issue is not related to the operating system at all. It was reproduced across different 9310 2-in-1 units in Windows and Linux, as well as with the Diagnosis tool in the Bios (by running the ePSA memory test). Steps to reproduce in Bios (ePSA): The following steps to reproduce were tested on the 9310 2-in-1 and confirmed by other 9310 2-in-1 users, I have no feedback yet whether those steps to reproduce work as well for the 9300 and the 7390 2-in-1. Ideal prerequisites: Make sure you are in a low light environment and the screen brightness is low. This is not a strict requirement, but makes the problem more apparent. Also your device should not be warm, as thermal throttling could make the issue unreliable / hard to reproduce. Make sure Intel Turbo boost as well as Intel Speed Step are enabled on your device. Make sure your machine is connected to the original 45W AC adapter and battery is not charging. Start your Computer and press F12 to go into BIOS Select "Diagnosis" and immediately press Esc to abort it In the bottem left edge, select "Advanced Test" Untick everything apart from "Memory test" Start the test and watch out for display flickering. It can be very subtle at times, so watch closely, stop and start the test a few times if you don't see any flickering. Steps to reproduce in Windows and Linux: The following instructions may sound weird, but they are creating the perfect combination of cpu and memory utilization to trigger the flickering issue. Prime95's Large FFT stress test makes the display flicker as well in the first few seconds, but Google Chrome Webbrowser is better at triggering a workload where flickering occurs. Make sure Intel Turbo boost as well as Intel Speed Step are enabled on your device and you do not have any energy saving power plan in place that limits turbo boost. Make sure your machine is connected to the original 45W AC adapter and battery is not charging. Install Google Chrome Go to Settings / Advanced / System, untoggle "Use hardware acceleration when available" and relaunch Chrome Go to Youtube and play a 4K video like this one here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LXb3EKWsInQ Set the video resolution to 4K (this increases memory and cpu usage and simulates a workload triggering the flickering) Scroll down to the comments so that you have a mostly white display background Observe the brightness of the display flashing / flickering. Videos of the issue: Reproduction of the issue in Bios can be seen here: https://youtu.be/VGofdkQ7iU4 Reproduction of the issue in Windows can be seen here: https://youtu.be/PeQfDFbaH3g Reproduction of the issue in Linux as well as the workaround limiting the cpu frequency to 3.3 Ghz can be seen here: https://youtu.be/bPtGS-1antE Workaround: Disable Turbo Boost in the Bios. If you are a Linux user, you can simply limit turbo boost to a maximum frequency of 3.3Ghz: cpupower frequency-set -u 3.3GHz Keep in mind, this is not persistent across reboots, so if you want to make this persistent place it in a startup script. Models affected: Please note: I have talked to most of the reddit users in this list to make sure they are indeed affected by the issue I described. XPS 13 9310 2-in-1: I own that model (i7, 16GB, FHD, Manufacture Date: 12/04/2020). Got my second motherboard (Manufacture Date: 09/30/2020) already and I'm still affected. Reddit user u/FaSuu is affected: https://www.reddit.com/r/Dell/comments/la7lu1/new_2020_xps_13_2in1_after_3_weeks/gm3cvji/?context=3 Reddit user u/kaiser1025 is affected, got screen and motherboard replaced and still has the issue. Was so kind to confirm both the issue and the workaround. Reddit user u/aleksfadini was so kind to confirm both the issue and the workaround. XPS 13 7390 2-in-1: Reddit user u/Taylen137 has this issue, got the screen replaced as well as a replacement unit, all of no avail: https://www.reddit.com/r/Dell/comments/ifegy0/xps_13_7390_2in1_slight_screen_flickering_when/ Reddit user u/frustatedclient11 is affected: https://www.reddit.com/r/Dell/comments/kwm8wa/review_xps_13_2in1big_buck_little_bang/ Reddit user u/Firejay112 is affected and goth both screen and motherboard replaced, which didn't help: https://www.reddit.com/r/Dell/comments/kwm8wa/review_xps_13_2in1big_buck_little_bang/gjabism?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3 Dell forum user "e19y82" has this problem: https://www.dell.com/community/XPS/Bug-Report-XPS-9300-screen-brightness-blink-flicker/m-p/7782999/highlight/true#M76816 XPS 13 9310: Dell forum user "ce123" (Reddit user u/undostres123) reports to be affected here: https://www.dell.com/community/XPS/Bug-Report-XPS-9300-screen-brightness-blink-flicker/m-p/7805687/highlight/true#M78802 and here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Dell/comments/kwm8wa/review_xps_13_2in1big_buck_little_bang/gmz1ufc?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3 XPS 13 9300: A real life acquaintance owns a XPS 13 9300 (i7, 16GB, FHD, Manufacture Date 01/02/2020) and never noticed any flickering, however I was able to trigger it by running a stress test and the steps to reproduce in chrome at the same time. It is quite hard to get that machine to boost to high frequencies but the flickering is there as soon as the frequencies are reached. Dell forum user "zrs5532" had this problem, got screen and motherboard replaced and finally got a replacement unit and nothing helped: https://www.dell.com/community/XPS/Bug-Report-XPS-9300-screen-brightness-blink-flicker/td-p/7640763 Dell forum users "manylander" and "TrueNorth17" also have this problem, see the same link as above. Youtube user "R Z" had this issue on his 9300 as well, see his comment under the video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FKRyV1ly1dg Analysis: The evidence so far suggests that all 9310 2-in-1 units as well as all 7390 2-in-1 units are affected by this issue (both FHD+ and 4K panels). Thanks to all the Reddit users who were so kind to verify the issue in a personal chat: u/aleksfadini, u/FaSuu, u/kaiser1025, u/Tylen137, u/Firejay112.
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Hello, I've bought a kingston 240Go SSD 1,5 years ago and sudently it stoped working, when I go into bios it show's up as "SATAFIRM S11", I've seen fix on the forum but they involve loosing the data in the drive which I don't wanna do. Is there a fix or at least a way to copy the content of the drive somewhere else and bring it back afterward? Thanks for reading my broken english Samuel
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Main objective: 17-01-26.mp4.c.mp4 source:https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1144y1h7Ey?t=59.4 in the video above,one Chinese technicain successfully achieved “hardware color calibration” on driver board like this one:(or something similar) the method in video can be included in: 1.windows *.icc or *.icm color profile cannot work in fullscreen mode(like a game) 2.so we have to write *.icc config into the driver board inorder to make sure our color calibration works at any circumstances 3.first use displayCAL do the calibration and get the color profile for your display pannel (i grabbed a random one online random Panel calibration profile) 4.extract *.icm file from your calibration_profile.zip 5.read *.icm file that represents your pannel's every color's “offset” using ProfileMaker “MeasureTool”(download:ce01056afd99dfa1e8b0a211b3049f0a762b92d5) you get this select file “save as” this can be saved into code 6.convert this “offset map” to driver source code line like:(using some kind of script i havent got) 7.replace the code in your driver board's source code(not achieved) 8.so here comes the main problem: asking a technicain for source code is like ask him to put his money in your pocket the only code i can find online as a farmer is:https://github.com/search?p=1&q=RTD2&type=Repositories i also tried decompile firmware from a random firmware online but i got this im not a coder but i have strong instinct that this code is classified heavily from my thinking this point not far from the final goal just some code compile and some usb to serial flash but its such a burden for some normal people like me can you help help me this is the future of diy monitoring my friends!!! this is a folder with something i fund:mst9804 driver binary
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Does anyone know why my new out the box Odyssey G9 LC49G95TSSUXEN is showing DP port is not installed on the monitor information menu? I purchased two of the same G9 monitors and only one has this message and will not show anything that is plugged into the DP ports only the HDMI port is installed on the monitor firmware both are running on the latest firmware M-T9549GGAA-1012.1 please note: I've upgraded from 2X Samsung C49RG90 which work with no issues. any ideas why the new monitors are not identical out the box & how to get the DP port installed within the firmware?
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- samsung odyssey g9
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Recently me and my friends have been playing old ps3 games like nfs carbon and few other games of that sort and obtaining disks for old games of a console which is more than 3 years old has become difficult so I tried getting the games by jailbreaking the ps3 with the ps3 hen firmware...and when i tried installing the firmware it has failed me and the error 8002f1f9 is displayed on the screen. Lot of people on different Forums and on youtube have faced the same problem and the problem seems to be the cmos battery and the wifi/bluetooth module. So i replaced the cmos battery and yet the error remains as is.and replacing the bluetooth module is out of question since it is impossible to find parts of a 10 year old console and even when found are super expenisve...So i am writing to find if there is a any solution to this problem apart from these two because i have read online that u can flash some other kind of firmware which seems impossible considering the fact that the screen is stuck on the god damn error....besides they havent mentioned the name of the firmware or where to find it... Thanking you in advance....
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hi im trying to setup a zyxel gs2200-24 managed switch when i tag the ports for vlan 1 its networked but no internet connection when i try to use web configurator 192.168.1.1 it wont connect all ip address are still 192.168.0.xx using virgin media hub3 as router for managing dhcp ip and also trying to find the firmware so i can make sure its all factory fresh only able to access via the console port to serial on pc using putty to access first time using managed switch all help appreciated set up as Hub3 /router V ethernet to switch port 24 V pcs on port 1-3 huwawei wirless on port 23 ports 1 and 2 are work pcs so was going to put them onto vlan 2 so work couldnt see my home lan ftp server port 9 so the way i see it port 1-2 vlan 2 port 3-23 vlan 1 port 24 vlan 1&2 am i right and can anyone help thankyou
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Hello, so basically the wifi of my access point that I'm using as a router has lag spikes of 100 to 220 ms for like 3 seconds every few minutes and, I saw that this could be cause because I have high or a lot of "bufferbloat" (you can search it up) and OpenWrt can be used to reduce it. Problem is, my access point is a "off-brand" I think, I think its chinese, it doesn't have an easily visible brand, so I'm not sure how to determine if this device would support OpenWrt or not, hope you guys can help me with that. If you guys need any more info to try and help me I can try to provide it to you, thats it, thank you in advance. NOTE: I can't connect via ethernet and the access point is close to me
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- access points
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For a couple of days now the wireless internet has been inconsistent and sometimes hasn't been working at all. The internet itself is fine because Ethernet is working. Its just the wireless which was having issues. After a while I decided to reset the router, the router I have is the Night Hawk R8000. But its important to note that I have tomato firmware installed on it. After I reset the router I tried to log into it using the default logins so I can configure the router. But when I tried using the default logins of admin/@Newdig it didn't work, none of the logins I tried worked. I need your help to get access to the router or to get it into a configurable state.