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  1. Hi, my brother has a NZXT H210i with a NZXT controller V2 and we have a very strange issue. The controller is not recognised and RGB lights are flickering when the PC is idle. But when he fires up Furmark or a game and puts the PC under load the lights stop flickering and sometimes the device is recognised in NZXT CAM (the NZXT controller software). We have tried the following: - Reinstalled NZXT CAM - Fresh windows install - Moving the controller to another PSU rail (there is a HDD and SSD on this rail and they don't show any issues) - Used another NZXT RGB controller (from my PC as I have a H510 Elite with the same controller) Are we looking like a PSU or Motherboard issue? Super strange how it stops flickering when UNDER load.
  2. Hello! I got a faulty Asus PRIME X570-PRO motherboard, and I'm trying to identify the root cause of the issue. Symptoms: when the power supply is connected the board, the RGB lights from I/O and chipset do turn on when I try to power on the system, the fan on the CPU and chipset do turn on the system does not POST-s, there is no Video output there is no activity on the Asus QLED indicators (DRAM, CPU, VGA, BOOT remain all Off) the system does not Turns Off / Reset from the Power / Reset switches (with long hold) - need to power cycle the PSU for Turn Off Tried two different CPU-s: Ryzen 5 3400G (2nd get with graphics) and Ryzen 5 3600 (3rd gen). RAM: G.SKILL F4-3200C16D-32GVK, DDR4-3200 16GB GPU: Radeon RX 4600 (tried with and without external GPU) PSU: 550W, 24 pin (MB) + 8 pin (CPU) connected (all the above components are known good) Tried CMOS reset, both with jumper and battery removal method. Any ideas what could be wrong? Is the lack of activity on the Asus QLED-s indicate something? Maybe a corrupted BIOS, or an electrical fault? In case of an electrical fault is there any chance to get a schematics (or repair guide) for the board? Thanks, Attila
  3. Pro: look great, cool LED control Cons: their f#ck3d Everytime you start the PC 1 of the 3 fans is running at full speed, and its noisey, there is only one ways to fix this; the fan cable must be disconnected, then reconnected to the hub. There is no way to fix this via software, including changing to bios settings. So IMO don't buy these, they are more troublesome than its worth, especially for their price. At this moment the back panel of my PC case must remain off so I can access the hub for every boot. I will be replacing these soon, its unfortunate because they do look frickn good and before someone asks, yes the firmware and software is all up to date. and has been uninstalled / reinstalled multiple times
  4. for a while now i thought i had GPU issues since games crash sometimes and the fps isn't really what my specs should provide, but recently i ran a few CPU benchmarks just in case and I'm not sure if i read the scores wrong or they are actually this bad. temps are fine and don't go above 80c. i tried reseting the bios, updating the bios, updating the chipset.... nothing i did changes the results. CINEBENCH: multi core: 6862 (should be around 12k or even 15k with pbo and such) single core: 1526 (normal score) mp ratio: 4.50x (should be around 8 since its an 8 core cpu) PASS MARK: cpu mark: 15528 (model average is 26920) 3D MARK: max threads: 3428 16 threads: 3426 8 threads: 3411 4 threads: 2609 2 threads: 1440 1 thread: 749 im not too sure about what these should be tbh, but the green bar's locations don't look great to me. more info in pics. can i do anything or is this cpu faulty? my specs are these: windows 10 CPU - Ryzen 5700x CPU cooler - Corsair H100i liquid cooler RAM - Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO 4x8GB DDR4 3600MHz MOBO - gigabyte aorus elite x570 GPU - RX 7900XT PSU - Corsair RM850x 850W Gold
  5. Hi!!! I have a very big problem, every time.u try to install an os in an PC I just put in a 9700k and update from my old 8100 and if it's windows it gives varios.kinds of bsod like machine check exceptions or whea uncorrectable error, and in Linux gives me various errors( the picture I sexed says Wich errors) while trying to install mint, if anybody knows if that's because the processor is dead or if it is something else, I will really appreciate de help I79700k(the probable cause of the problem 32gb Corsair lpx 3200mhz Motherboard Biostar b365mhc Nvidia rtx 3060ti ventus X2 SSD crucial b500 240gb Couple hardrives for data
  6. Heyo, Just wondering if anyone has had a logitech keyboard with an issue with double typing keys on one key press. This has been happening to me as of late. The only keys that seem to be affected at the moment are the R and S keys, but have read some logitech support forum posts stating that affects many more keys. https://community.logitech.com/s/question/0D53100006m6twZCAQ/g910-orion-spark-keyboard-randomly-double-or-triple-typing-letters The keyboard is the only wireless device in my room, so i do not believe it is a interference issue. I am most likely going to take it back for a warranty return in a few days, would just like some opinions or stories before i do. Thanks Guys :3
  7. Hi! I have a PWM pin grounded Inno3D GTX 1070Ti X2V2(small pcb). I wanted to try another gpu fans, it got the fans spin up fully than i shutted down my the pc to put back the default fans. After that the gpu didn't post, and fans didn't spin.(The ground can be due a bad solder around the fans that i wanted to try, but that's not the point, i already disconnected the fans) Anyone have a schematics or any tip to fix it?
  8. So freshly installed a and 7800x3d with ddr5 ram and an PRO X670-P WIFI Met with crashes, freezes, blue screen and the pc shutting itself off slowly. It runs stably outside of games for extended periods if that helps Because it shuts itself off properly (even if it’s doing it on its own) I don’t think it’s a power supply issue issue and it’s a 1000 watt psu I did a fresh install of windows 11 on a drive keeping absolutely nothing as I thought it was a driver issue. My bios is the latest. I am running out of hope and not sure what to do at this point any and all advice would be greatly appreciated I also did a memtest and the ram showed no issues.
  9. Hi everyone, I've got a 2080 and 3700x on a hardline loop. Have had it for a while now. I had to replace a faulty power supply (Silver Stone strider gold 850w), because it would just power off my pc almost immediately when turning on. Long story short, i did buy it new, but cannot claim warranty. So i replaced it with a new silver stone et700 80plus gold, and it fixed the problem immediately. I mention this because other forums about burnt gpu connectors blame the psu. I dont even bother putting a permanent overclock on, its always stock, except for the last 3 days when i started mining on my pc. Years ago ive done the same thing. My memory clock was on +1200 on afterburner (which didnt display artifacting when testing and ran fine for a little while). After a night of mining the pc would stop displaying anything (but still be on completely fine) i quickly realised the gpu is at fault. So i reset cmos and booted and then put the clock at 1000+ and it was fine over night mining. But then when i used it this morning, it showed no display again. I then disconnected the connector and saw the 8 pin was broken? The extra two pin isnt photed (https://ibb.co/CHtxZxh, on the right), luckily i have spare pcie extensions, soon after i saw 3 of the pins were burnt (https://ibb.co/jkrqvTS, https://ibb.co/nw4W77P). At the moment I've used a clean tooth brush and lightly brushed inside the connector with isopropyl alcohol. Although it doesn't look like its done too much. Ive drained my loop now to have a better look at the gpu out of the loop and i thought well, what do i do now? It isn't really my power supply is it? Have i been that unlucky with two faulty psu's?! If it is my psu, am i even able to claim warranty, and what about my 2080? Also, the temperatures are still really good, cpu at 63c under load and gpu at 51c under load. Thank you for your help!
  10. TL;DR at bottom. My anger made me treat this forum post as a writing exercise. The last few days have been wonderful. Playing on a Minecraft server with some friends, got accepted to a college, restoring via electrolysis some cast iron pans, doing some BING CHILLING... but then, disaster struck. At random times, but usually when at least 3 people were on the Minecraft server I was hosting with my personal PC, it wouldn't crash the server; It would crash my entire connection to the internet. I would have to restart my entire PC to get my internet connection back. I was desperately confused. At first I thought it could be my weird network setup. I have a moderately aging router that takes in the modem signal, and then a separate, very new, WIFI 6 Router/Access Point in my room so I could do Quest 2 wireless VR (My Index broke, that's an embarrassing and entirely my fault problem). This obviously seemed like a culprit considering I accidently had the Wifi 6 r/ac set up as a router for the first few months and just recently switched it to Access Point mode, but as I was walking back inside after checking on my cast iron restoration, I thought to myself "Hey dumbfuck, google it." So I did, and I found this. A post of someone describing a very similar problem when hosting a Minecraft Server and a very helpful comment describing that it might be the Intel 1225-V Network driver chip of the OP as there were some faulty revisions of it. I kept digging and found out this reddit thread from about the same time I ordered the motherboard describing the sitch. Apparently this ethernet controller is know to be a trouble maker, not only for the first revision, but also the second; It wasn't till the third revision were all the problems were fixed. People in the comments on that and other threads were describing it as "A complete hardware problem, no software fix.". So obviously, after reading someone describe the exact problem I'm having, this problem being attributed to a 2.5gbps ethernet controller, me remembering that my mobo was advertised as 2.5gbps, me also remembering that 5900x PC has always scored lower on internet speedtests than the 7600k PC it replaced, made me already accept I had this network controller before I even checked. I checked; I have revision 2. First thought was to contact Newegg. I couldn' tfind an easy way to ask for an RMA. I then went to Asus Support and had a terrible experience there. I tried to be assertive but not rude. I didn't want to sit around doing random bull when I was already certain it was a hardware issue. You can be the judge of if I failed at my mission. One friend I shared the screenshots with said I was an asshole and one said I did fine. Either way, the convo left me uncertain if they'd even be able to replace it, fix it, or if they even recognize this Ethernet Controller as a problem. I went back to Newegg. I started a text chat with support and told em the problem. They basically told me its too long out the Newegg warranty so I have to talk to the manufacturer for an RMA. Here's the logs. So now I'm at a crossroads. I have found Asus' direct RMA page and submitted a request there. The request to send it in went through but it's still not really confirmed if they will actually be able to get me the revision 3 version. Even after I pay $30 to ship the mobo, it seems to be that I'd have to pray to the Asus gods that they will give me the crumb that is 'determining there is a problem.' And if they don't recognize having revision 2 as a problem, then I'm out of $30. I found some people saying that if you uninstall this driver and install that driver but don't install this driver, everything will work; But usually these are fixes for people who have symptoms A LOT worse than me. (Like shutting off from tasks I've been doing for that last year perfectly fine). I mean, it took a year for me to find a program, Minecraft of all of them, that'll actually cause a failure. Lastly, I've had the idea of just ordering a PCI-E network adaptor and using that. It'd would be the same price as the shipping for the potential mobo replacement. Gonna stay away from I225-V even if it's revision 3 just in-case. Obviously, I feel like this shit shouldn't be on me to fix. If this really is a widespread issue, Asus should've came groveling to my feet offering a replacement when the problem was noticed about a year ago. So now I ask of you, people of LTT fourms, give me some advice. TL;DR Started a MC Server on PC Randomly my ethernet port stopped working, restarting PC was the only fix I am confident its the Ethernet Controller on my mobo, Intel I225-V, as there are many reports of Revision 1 & 2 of it having similar problems. I confirmed I have revision 2 Asus support wasn't able to confirm if I could get a replacement with revision 3, but I could pay the $30 shipping for the chance their repair facility recognizes revision 2 as faulty hardware. Most people seem to say this is unfixable with software, some people say otherwise. They'll say "Uninstall this driver, install that driver. Whatever you do, don't get this driver". Not really sure what to try and not confident it'll work. At a crossroads on whether or not to pay $30 for a potential mobo replacement or $30 for a new PCI-E ethernet adaptor. Very pissed I have to spend any money for something that's the manufacturer's fault. I want advice from you guys.
  11. Hello, hope you're all having a great day, I've been getting loads of BSOD's for quite a while, I built my pc at the end of June and my first BSOD occured after enabling XMP to set the ram at 3600mhz, unfortunately, 2 days after that (now first week of July) I got a BSOD, from then until September, I have resetted the CMOS a number of times, refunded the old ram sticks and bought new ones (once I tried to set them to 3600 manually at 1.38v, then my pc wouldn't post and the DRAM Debug LED was lighting up, I managed to mess around and troubleshoot such as reseating ram, using hdmi, resetting cmos, then it posted and after that I instantly refunded those sticks), I have also reinstalled windows, DDU the GPU drivers using Guru3d, and updated the bios, unfortunately I still get BSOD's and I am now clueless, here is the minidump file from my 2 recent BSOD's (today and yesterday), this is my first build and it's had me extremely stressed, I would be ecstatic if someone could point out either the issue so I can at least try replacing the component or either try fix it, anyways here's the link to my specs as well as the minidump files, also wanted to point out, the BSOD's only occur while turning the pc on, none have ever come while using the PC, https://drive.google.com/file/d/1M-tQW75Y4aW6a9bP76VNvcfOCtZN6W2K/view?usp=sharing Specs List: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/mkq7t8 - Sorry for the long text, thanks!
  12. Hi My computer died last night during my sleep. Nothing happens when i press the powerbutton. Mothercard is a ASUS B85 Plus Ive tried to switch to another PSU but that didnt help Sb_pwr light is blinking with around 2 seconds loop Took out memory, drives and graphiccard and nothing helped. Did the paperclip trick to the old PSU and then all the drives started spinning I guess the motherboard is dead but i was hoping someone of you have another solution!
  13. Dear Linus Community I want to share the problem that I had and how I solved it. The reason why I'm doing it is because it was relatively tricky to diagnose and because just replacing some networking component does mask it so you may think that some equipment is faulty while it may very well be just fine (also the problem may present itself again in the future if misdiagnosed and misfixed). Background Story (you can safely skip this paragraph) I had a 10/100 network at home and after watching Linus videos about upgrading to 10Gb I decided to create a roadmap to slowly upgrade my network to 10Gb, my backup solution, and my security system. Thus I started the journey by replacing Cat5 and telephone cables with Cat6a shielded cables inside the walls and Cat6a sockets (yes I was running ethernet on 4 wires telephone cables). Then I replaced my 10 and 10/100 switches with 1Gb switches (10Gb is still too expensive for the amount of components that I am replacing). Then I replaced my NAS for a more performing one. And finally I started revamping my security system to have something well integrated with cameras on a separate subnet like the video from Level1tech. It was a this point that I started shuffling components around to place them in a better position and replacing long cat5 patch cables with homemade cat6a ones. While testing the new cables all kind of weird things started to happen. Symptoms of the problem All the equipments seemed to work just fine with industrial cables but not with the DIY ones. It took a long time to establish a link speed and IP and finally the link was 100Mbit In some occasions it would grab a 1Gb link but then moving the cable a little caused the link to drop to 100Mbit or to become inactive The link in some occasions started to quickly shuffle between active/inactive indefinitely or by dropping to 10Mbit after a long time. It seemed to be very inconsistent with some computers and switches jumping to 1Gb for several test in a row just to drop to 100Mbit or to inactive after trying long enough. A cable would work just fine before passing it behind a bookshelf but then would drop to 100Mbit or not work at all once in position. Then the same cable would work again if pulled out but then it started misbehaving even when on the floor. Solution Basically after I excluded interference from the AC lines, errors in the way i made the cables, broken equipment of cables, I was pulling my airs off and almost resulted in buying additional industrial cables of the required length. But then almost randomly I started comparing visually industrial cables and DIY ones with old and new plugs. I noticed that there was a piece of the shield of the socked that was curiously aligned with the exposed ends of the DIY passthrough plug that I chopped off. It was at that point that came the idea. Maybe the cables of the plug were shorting on the shield of the socket. Thus I put a piece of Insulating tape on the exposed wires and now everything works flawlessly. I wanted to share this experience so that it may help other people around. If you youse pass through plugs you may not have a broken cable in your hand, it may just be a short circuit between the plug and the socket. Cheers and have a good day.
  14. Hey guys, new here. And as the title says, one of my ram sticks is not being detected by the motherboard. In the bios, it only shows 8gb total memory. But the weird thing is whenever I check the task manager, it shows a total of 16GB of memory and the 8gb is reserved. I already tried all possible (afaik) ways to remove the hardware reserved memory. Specs: Ryzen 5 2600 16 GB HyperX RGB RTX 2070S Mortar Titanium B450M (updated to latest bios version) Any ideas how to fix this? is my ram faulty? or is it my motherboard? BTW, this is the 3rd time this happened to me, I'm thinking my mobo is causing the problem.
  15. Hello, I need some help, I’m not really a huge tech guy, been playing a game called Black Desert Online, but game kept crashing and the support gave me this tool to locate the error. I don’t know how to read it or fix it though, reason I’m asking here. I also had some corrupted system files when I ran sfc /scannow which I had removed and replaced successfully after running another command. Next day the error was back. I’ve had malware on the PC after joining a discord server promising free nitro, maybe this have done something to the pc? I factory reset same day as I got warning from windows defender. I have also updated my BIOS through Asus tune wizard (I believe it’s called something like that) I’m looking for repair tips (hopefully without replacing parts)
  16. Hi! So my pc was working til a few days ago when I switched cases, since then it didn't turn on. What I tried: Having a ram stick, 24 pin and 8 pin connected to the mobo (with and without CPU/GPU) and shorting the power on thing on the mobo with a screwdriver, didn't boot. No fan, no psu no nothing. I read that when this fails it's a dead mobo so I bought a new one, it doesn't turn on either with same method. The GPU gets power from both mobo cuz the pins LED light up that it's not connected (red, and when connected it's white). I thought maybe the psu is at fault, but it turns on with the "clip" Thing where I connect the power pins in the 24 pin thing (green and black) so it's fine, and to be sure I tried with an old PC and it powers it. Even if I plug a case fan into the mobo that doesn't start either. I tried every trouble shooting I could find online... My setup : Mobos: b450 tomahawk (old) and tomahawk max (new) GPU:Strix 1080ti ram: aorus RGB psu: evga 650 GQ thanks for the answers
  17. Hi! Couple of months ago my zephyrus gx531gw just died while I was working on it. I took it to asus RMA but they wanted to change the whole motherboard for a new one, which costs more than a brand new laptop. Of course my warranty just ended 2 weeks before all that so that wasnt an option. I then took the laptop to a service shop, they fixed the motherboard two times but every time something else broke on it. (The second time almost worked, laptop booted in to the bios at the shop, i took it home, plugged in, nothing just a quick flash of the carging LED.) I brought it back a third time, they looked into it again, but could not repair it fully. Now the laptop powers on, keyboard is red, nothing on the screen, fans are blowing, and its restarting every 30 secs or so. Thats when they told me that without an electronic schematics of the whole motherboard they cant do anything more than this. So I came here in hope that someone might have these schematics that i could bring to the service shop. Hopefully they can do something about it after that because it was an expensive laptop and I have to use it for college too. Im happy to hear any other option of saving this laptop from its absolut death if someone has some advice Thanks a lot for your help!
  18. Last night, about 15 minutes after I turning on my PC, I noticed around 10 small blocks appear on my screen, I was only browser the web while having a few programs open. These blocks reminded me of dying VRAM. There were only about 10-ish of them and very small (forgot to take a picture). By default, I have a undervolt profile loaded with Windows, around 850mV (can't remember exact, at work, can't check atm) on the core, at 1930MHz with a +500 on the memory. I set my 3080 Ti back to stock and the small blocks disappeared. I then tried to start FH5 as a test, because it is very GPU intensive, but FH5 crashed while loading. I then at this point obviously thought one of my VRAM chips was dead, since loading them up with a game causes said game to crash... I then went for a reboot with stock GPU settings, and after reboot there were no blocks on the screen. I tried starting FH5 and it started perfectly. After driving around ingame with no issues, I started enabling my MSI Afterburner profiles. First I enabled the undervolt which I mentioned in the start of the post and this worked perfectly. And then I enabled the profile with my maximum possible OC (stable OC), with +75 on the core which results in 2130MHz on the core, with +500 on the memory aswell. Card pulls 430 watt using this profile. No issues at all. But now I'm obviously thinking about this. Was this just a hardcore, weird graphics bug, or is my graphics card starting to die? Was it the start of the end I just saw happening? I still have 2 years of warranty on the 3080 Ti. If this happens again, I will start RMA case ASAP, and yes I will remember to take a photo for the RMA case. But, any thoughts?
  19. I am currently building / rebuilding two high performance PCs. One was totally functional with 750w cooler master PSU. The other brand new parts to assemble, with a 650w Corsair PSU I swapped some from the already functional PC to the new case and mobo. End of the day I tried to fire both units up. And both dead. Both fail the 'paper-clip' test. I just head a tiny soft click-like noise. I tested the other pins with a multi meter (while the 'paper-clip' was bridging pins 4&5) and i get zero volts. Now one PSU was about 3 years old (the cooler master). The brand new corsair may be DOA. But its quite a coincidence that both dies at the same time. No i didn't do anything stupid like work on the PC while it was connected. All PC connections were 100% correct and fitted properly. Any idea what may have caused this?
  20. So in the last week, I've run into the awful problem that when I boot up anything resource hogging such as gaming or loading into my VR Home, within 10 minutes to an hour (seems to be random) both of my screens go black and I can still hear the audio coming through my headphones until I turn the computer off. If I'm on a call on discord, people can still hear me but only for a few seconds. I have to turn my computer off and on and when it boots up, only one of my two screens are working and in device manager, my GPU is apparently disabled. When I enable it, the AMD software pops up saying "It appears we weren't able to start your drivers" and I have to restart it once more to get my other monitor to work. I've stress tested my GPU turning the fans down to allow the temperature to rise but that didn't crash it. This is really bugging me at this point so I really need to look for a fix. PC Specs: -R7 2700x -RX5700XT 50th Anniversary -32gb 3000mhz -LUX RGB 650W PSU Any and all help would be greatly welcomed.
  21. Hello! I bought a Gigabyte Gtx1080 g1 off ebay knowing it was damaged, foolishly hoping that I could get I running properly with my limited knowledge and experience, and so far I've had no luck so I came to the forums to see if anyone here had any ideas, the issue the seller told me it had is that it would black screen under demanding loads and so for that does prove true in my testing, I've been able to replicate the issue when i tried running Halo infinite, Jedi fallen order, and a demanding amplified Minecraft world with shaders on. I have had some luck with gaming still, i was able to run persona 5 through rpcs3 with no issues, as well as Eldewito (Halo Online), Halo 2 and vanilla Minecraft all run fine. Because of my success with og halo 2 and Eldewito I tested mcc by playing halo reach with enhanced graphics and it ran at a practically locked 144hz and because of that I will continue testing my game library to see what works and what doesn't. But from those test it leads me to believe that there is a certain threshold where when it's reached the gpu will just shut off and honestly it's leading me to believe there may be physical damage on the gpu. One thing i thought about was maybe it was a PSU issue but sense this happened in both my pc and the sellers i am lead to believe it is not, another thing i thought about was maybe it was over heating but msi afterburner reports it as staying under 70 degrees even while gaming . If anyone has any suggestions of things i could try to make it fully functional i would very much appreciate it. Here's a list of things I've already tried with no success: Updating to the most recent driver versions as well as trying older ones Updating the Gpu's bios with NV Flash Updating Display port Firmware Using Msi Afterburner to put a power limit the gpu My specs: Cpu: Ryzen 7 3700x Ram: Gskill trident z 2x8gb 3200mhz ddr4 Motherboard: Msi B450 Gaming Plus Max PSU: Evga 700 br
  22. I was watching YouTube playing with my charging cable one hand and reaching for my keyboard to skip ahead with the other when I suddenly felt shocked by something. Quickly realized it was from my cable connected to an Anker Powerport Atom PD+ 4 and it happens on all metallic parts (or through my chest I guess) connected to my PC. None of my other AC adapters do this. Good thing Linus doesn't accept sponsorships from them anymore and thank God I don't have a pacemaker. I don't know much about them but I can't imagine this is good for them. Just thought I'd share with you guys so less people buy their products. 20230202_170213.mp4
  23. Hi everyone, Around two years ago, I purchased the following monitor on Tmall: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32975586687.html I was really disappointed when, shortly after using it for the first time, coloured vertical lines appeared on the screen: I included this image in a reddit post where I explained the issue and the troubleshooting steps I'd tried, but was unable to find a solution to the problem. Eventually, I gave up, and the monitor went into storage...until recently when I stumbled across the following post on this forum: I tried adjusting the power cable while it was connected to the monitor just like Vamo_Elysian did and sure enough, re-positioning the cable does temporarily cause the artifacts to go away. I hadn't even considered that the power adapter might be at fault, but it looks like that could be the case. My question is, do you think my current power adapter is faulty, or do you think it's output isn't suitable (too low/high)? I don't want to waste money on an adapter that's exactly the same if that isn't the problem, but I also don't want to do any damage to the monitor by undervolting/overvolting (if that's even possible, I don't know much about electronics ). The power adapter in Vamo_Elysian's post is rated for 19V & 3.42A (65 watts), whereas the one this monitor's currently using is rated for 12V & 4A (48 watts), which is quite a bit lower (translation) : The only information I could find on the monitor itself was this (translation) : The connector looks like it has the same inner diameter and outer diameter as Vamo_Elysian's one: Any help with this would be much appreciated
  24. I left two videos below to understand that is happening right now I builded a new gaming rig a week ago, it was working fine for 4 days and somehow when pc was idling it crashed or whatever happend. Pc was still running, but monitor said that there's no signal per display port, hdmi says no cable connected. Keyboard and mouse wasnt working as well. So, i discovered that my DRAM light turned yellow. I tried many things.. -tried to boot with 1/2 ram sticks in every possible combination, nothing -removed cmos battery for one hour, nothing -removed cpu, by the way all pins were straight and good, nothing -checked psu cables, all looks good While pc was working fine all temps were normal as it should to be, games were running on max settings smooth and without any crashes or lags. Oh btw i changed my rams frequency from 2133mhz to its max 3200mhz, maybe they somehow just died because of it? I found that many people blamed mobo for this, and there is like 70-80% people who has this dram problem with other asus cards.. What should i do next? Should i go straight away to store to exchange this mobo a new one? Or it isnt even mobo's fault? I just dont really want to buy any more parts for hoping it will help, im feeling like i wasted all my money for nothing already Every single part was purchased brand new Thank you all Ryzen 7 3700x Corsair rm750x Gigabyte rtx 2070 windforce 2x Lpx 16gb (2x8gb) 3200mhz received_524319631823726.mp4 received_550027272283880.mp4
  25. A few months ago, my GPU randomly died. Apparently it had shorted out, which was causing my PSU to shut down to avoid damage. I got the GPU replaced, and my PC has been working fine since then. When the GPU died, I had my computer plugged into a surge protector. Since then, I've been keeping my PC plugged straight into the wall (yes I know it's more dangerous). Am I just being paranoid, or is it possible that my surge protector is faulty and caused my GPU to die? The surge protector is just one that I found laying around the house. It doesn't have a name brand on it, so I don't know how reliable it is. Basically, this is what I want to know. Is the surge protector I have safe or not? If the one I have could be faulty, should I keep my PC plugged into the wall like it has been or buy a new surge protector? If I should get a new surge protector, are there any good ones I could get on Amazon for around $15-20? I would appreciate any advice on the subject.
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