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Hey, everyone! I own a Lenovo W540 which had a 512GB Mushkin SSD. Recently I found out that there are Reallocated Sector Count = 38 and Reallocated Event Count = 86 on it so I decided to take action and replace it. I got a 1TB Samsung 870 EVO and I created an image of my Mushkin SSD using Macrium Reflect. I restored the image on the Samsung SSD and now I got 454 GB Unallocated Space which I can't use for some reason. I tried to create a new simple volume but I saw this: I clicked Yes and saw this: I found out that the max number of partitions on an MBR drive is 4 which I already have: System Reserver (S), Local Disk (D), Local Disk (C), and the Healthy Recovery partition. I also watched a video of a dude converting his MBD disk to GPT and it looks like everything worked just fine for him. I'm wondering a few things: 1. Are there any advantages/disadvantages of converting an MBR disk to a GPT one? 2. Why I can't extend my D drive? The option is greyed out. 3. Why is D on the left of C? Isn't it supposed to be the other way around? 4. Why is the System Reserved partition visible in File Explorer? How to hide it? 5. Why there are 3 Primary Partitions on the Samsung SSD? Isn't it supposed to be only 1? Thanks in advance for taking the time to answer these questions!

Hi Everyone! I'm placing a new build in the crawlspace just underneath my office. The temperature in the crawlspace is pretty stable ranging from about 50-70 degrees across the seasons. Cable lengths will need to be about 10 feet long to reach the crawlspace build. I've got monitor cable, computer power switch, and speaker cables all solved. What I need is a good solution for getting multiport USB access to the computer. I envision a hub mounted under my desk with a local power supply and a cable to the remote computer in the crawlspace below. Ideally, I'd need about 6 USB-A ports and 2 USB-C ports. The computer has a 3.2 gen 2 USB PCI-E card installed that has a single USB-C output. I have a 10 ft long active USB-C cable to connect the below-floor build to the deskmounted USB hub. I have a couple of questions: Will using an active cable degrade mouse and keyboard performance? (I like to game and don't want my Razer gaming gear to get laggy). If it's going to screw things up, is there a better option? Second, Most of the hubs I see have built in connectors to plug into the computer. A local power adapter is fine but I need to be able to use my own USB-C cable to connect the hub to the source computer. Does anyone know of any units that have an adequate number of ports and a connection option that fits the bill? Thanks for any help!!!!

My laptop is an HP laptop whose specs can be seen here: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/hp-15-6-touch-screen-laptop-intel-core-i5-12gb-memory-256gb-ssd-natural-silver/6413692.p?skuId=6413692 The laptop has no thunderbolt ports, only a USB-C (non-thunderbolt) and two USB-A 2.0 ports along with a single HDMI port. There's nothing to indicate that it does or doesn't support a USB visual adapter. Without buying a USB visual adapter, how can I tell if my laptop will support a USB visual adapter to extend my screen to a monitor? Edit: I have an Intel (R) UHD GPU

Hi all, This might be a dumb question or one whose answer is right in front of me. But I want to use my old video card to run a monitor from my pc to a smaller display that would sit on the end table next to my couch, with my newer nicer card driving my games on the big TV across the room. I would have strategy guides/forums/etc open on that smaller display I could pull up if I needed to look something up for the game. So the TV using my newer nicer video card, the smaller display utilizing my older card. I don't like the idea of extending the display between these two. Although to be fair I've never done dual gpu/dual monitor so I don't know if that works quite the same. Ideally I'd just have like a hotkey on my mouse that switches the output of my mouse and keyboard to the other display. If they make a switch type peripheral for this? Because that would feel most seamless to me Of course the other idea is just plugging in my chromebook to the smaller display, but I'd like to just utilize the one keyboard and mouse. Running both displays off the newer card I think would put too much load on it. It's a big 4k tv and then the smaller 22 inch high-ish refresh rate monitor Is extending displays in a dual gpu/dual monitor situation seamless and low workload?

Budget (including currency): CDN$ but not an issue Country: Canada Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Star Citizen, Ms Office, Photoshop Other details: This is my current 7-8 years old computer: Operating System Windows 10 Pro 64-bit CPU Intel Core i7 4820K @ 3.70GHz 35 °C COOLER Stock Cooler RAM 32.0GB Triple-Channel DDR3 @ 667MHz (9-9-9-24) Motherboard ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. SABERTOOTH X79 (LGA2011) 45 °C Graphics Standard Monitor (1920x1080@60Hz) Standard Monitor (1920x1080@60Hz) 2047MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 770 (ASUStek Computer Inc) 40 °C Storage 3726GB Intel Raid 5 Volume SCSI Disk Device (RAID ) 1862GB FUJITSU MARVELL Raid VD 0 SCSI Disk Device (SATA ) Optical Drives HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GH24NSB0 SCSI CdRom Device Audio Realtek High Definition Audio Case Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply Cooler Master eXtreme Power Plus 700 W ATX Power Supply Still pretty satisfied but showing its age around 1-2 demanding games where the CPU is at 50% but GPU and Memory seems to suffer. Planned Upgrade parts: CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15S 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Z Series 32 GB (4 x 8 GB) DDR3-2400 Memory Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1070 8 GB Video Card and have an Intel Optane SSD 9 on my desk I would like to extend the life with the following upgrades: *Side notes, Not into RGBs nor water cooling. If you can correct my choices, looking into max performance relative to decent price but not a problem I value good components. Tks Éli,

Hey, so I live in a 3 story apartment in which 2nd and 3rd floor are my'n and basically I have router on 2nd floor but the wifi does not reach the 3rd floor. So thats mean I would have to extend it, I have drawn a small drawing by hand in which you can see the 'house plan'. Can you please recommend me things or how to extend wifi onto 3rd floor. But it CAN'T be wired from 2nd to 3rd floor since there are public stairs. And I do own 2 routers.(1 is main on the 2nd floor and the other is laying around) And by 2nd floor I mean 2/3.

I recently got a new car that has its own wifi hotspot that is used to turn things on and off in the car. This works fine when it's parked out the front of my house but when I need to charge it I have to move it to my garage which isn't connected to my house and the wifi doesn't reach my phone. I need something to increase the range of the car wifi like a Wifi to Wifi bridge or something. Any ideas?

For who knows what reason, Windows 10 decided to make a 100GB partition from my 1TB hard drive. Nothing is on it but the now empty partition is BEFORE the rest of the data on my drive. I know that I can extend a partition to leave the whole drive as 1 location, but through disk management that would mean extending the empty data using the rest of the hard drive that has data on it. Will this effectively wipe the drive? I don't want to mess with all the programs / games / personal data that's on it. Virtually everything besides the OS. Here is an image of what I'm dealing with and why I'm concerned (Deleted the partition before taking the screen shot so it's just unallocated. It was set to F: by Windows before hand) [ Screenshot of Disk Management ] I know I could also use a 3rd party disk management tool to move the partitions but from experience that can take an whole day to do. Thanks for looking and any information you can provide.

Hi All, I am looking for a small, affordable (Cheaper the better), and low-power Wi-Fi repeater or bridge. Allow me to be more specific though. I do not intend to extend my Wi-Fi network wirelessly, but instead, I wish to configure the repeater as a client, and then connect something via ethernet. I want to do this because I live in a 140-year-old home and running ethernet cables through the walls is not an option for me. The device i'm connecting will be a part of my home automation system, and it only has an ethernet port, hence why I need to go about this in this fashion. Also, the device is extremely low bandwidth and low priority. It's connection does not need to be incredibly stable nor does it need to be gigabit. I do, however need to be able to disable wireless re-broadcast. I have done this before with a Blu-Ray player in the far end of my home with a NETGEAR WNDR3300, which works great because it can stream HD with little to no buffering. I have a couple more WNDR3300's laying around, but I don't want to use them for this project because 1) They are large. And 2) They have high power consumption. Has anyone had a similar experience with a cheap router before? I would even be interested if I can install DD-WRT on it as well, but if it can be configured as a wireless client out of the box, i'm happy! Thanks for any input!

Hello, I have a problem and i need your help/ideas. My grandpa just bought a tablet because "his pc didnt catch any wifi signal" i know it doesnt make any sense but yeah. Now i dont want him to have bought it for nothing, so i want to extend his wifi so it could reach the garage. They have a pretty big house so they would have to drill holes if they wanted to run cables anywhere. I can only try explaining where the main router is and where the signal needs to be. So. The main router is in the living room in the bottom right corner. On the right side is the kitchen(behind a wall) and on the bottom side(if you imagine he room as a blank square) is the front porch. Lets say 10-15 metres out of the front porch and 3 metres down is his garage. That spot is where he wants his wifi. Any ideas with low cost and low to none cables? Any help or idea would be appreciated. -A grandson with a thing for videogames and building his own rig.

I have an awesome ASUS ROG SWIFT P248Q 1440p 21:9 curved monitor as my main monitor, but I have an old ViewSonic 1080p monitor that I use for Spotify and chat while playing games, extra room, etc. This works great, except that while the physical heights are the same, the mouse movement and content movement from screen to screen differs--is there any way to stretch my desktop where that doesn't happen without lowering my main monitor res to 1080p?

I need to extend my gigabit network 20m away from the router to connect to my new home office. Already got the single ethernet cable ran. Is this the most efficient way it can be done? Will PC 2 receive the full gigabit network speed? Are the devices I've listed most practical for this use? (If not, bare in mind I don't want to spend hundreds on getting this running). Devices: Gigabit Switch (TP-LINK TL-SG1005D) Access Point 450mbps (TP-LINK TL-WA901ND) (Black lines is Cat5e cable) Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Howdy! I've been tweaking my desk space recently, swapping out monitors etc, but after adding a 144Hz Samsung 24" display, I'm having trouble extending my desktop to my other display (a 4K TV) This was working just fine when it was my 4K TV and 4K 27" AOC monitor hooked up to my GTX 1060, but ever since swapping the 4K monitor out for the 144Hz panel, Windows just flicks straight back to "Only show desktop on 1" when I try to select another option in the display window. The TV is connected through HDMI, with the monitor running through DisplayPort. Nothing I do will force the Windows to throw an image onto the TV anymore. The weird part is that my PC successfully defaults to the TV during post, then swaps straight to the monitor as Windows boots in. I've tried rolling back my GPU driver, but that hasn't helped. The post part shows the PC can send a signal through to the TV, but it just won't extend over there anymore for some reason. Anyone got any ideas? I've tried scaling back down to 60Hz on the monitor to see if something is pissing it off there, but nothing changed.

Hey all! I got an SSD partitioned into two parts. I wish to combine them together. With the windows 7 built in disk management, it is unable to do so. I read it's because the unallocated space is not adjacent on the right? As you can see, the "Extend Volume" is grayed out. I have found multiple software online that claims to be able to extend volume (the one I'll probably use is minitool partition wizard). My question is: Will there be any issue combining volumes this way? Such degraded performance? Lost space? Etc etc? Will I be better off cloning my partition over, then combining with windows disk management? Thank you!

Hi guys, I was wondering if any of you could give me some advice to extend my WiFi. We already have 2 routers that around the same location in the house, one on the regular floor and one on the second floor. We did this so we would have a solid internet connection around the living room, my room, and my brothers rooms. The problem now is that the Wify reception in my parents room and in the kitchen is poor. And my parents want change that. What do you guys think, do I need to buy another router or just buy a good WIFI extender or accespoint? If so do you have any recommendations ? Hope to hear from you guy, peace

Hey Everybody I was wondering if anybody could help me out with some ideas, or got some experience regarding USB 2.0 extensions. What I'm trying to do is: I got my pc in my office, and I want to use my tv in the living room for some gaming with friends. So I need to extends it's peripherals to the living room about 25 meters away. (Hdmi is already in the wall and drawn to the tv) Xbox controllers, keyboard/mouse etc.(4 ports minimum) I figured the cheapest way of doing it, is USB over cat5e. However there is a lot of mixed reviews and price ranges to find out there. Anyone got experience in extending USB 2.0 over 25m+ distance, some personal experience with usb over cat5e? product or brand to recommend? Another option entirely to this? (Second pc not an option, and I dont have thunderbolt in pc so I assume thats a pricy route to take. Steam link adds too much latency for games like rocket league I've read) Found something like this, so you got an idea what I'm looking for http://www.amazon.com/Generic-Adapter-Extender-Network-Ethernet/dp/B00RT4Z09Q/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?ie=UTF8&ref_=mp_s_a_1_14 Thanks for reading

I would like to try hackintoshing my laptop, however to dualboot windows and OSX, the EFI partition needs to be 200mb, however windows uses a 100mb EFI partition. I have not found a way of extending its size without loosing the current windows install. I have the option of installing OSX on an external ssd I dont use very much, however the end goal will be to make it boot alongside the windows install, so the EFI partition will have to be increased sooner or later...

Hi, I made a partition when I first insatlled everything and left disk c with space for system files (I have 200gb on the other aprtition, there I have everything else), bu t now that Im trying to install office It will try to install on local disk c b deafault and theres not enough space, how can this be solved? Thx in advanced .

lets take a look at how to optimize the nexus 5 to get more battery life i know this may be different from person to person depending on their usage but here is my usage on the Nexus 5 i usually take it out of the charger at about 6- 6:30am ~ do about 2.5 hrs of skype and viber on wifi and about 25mins on LTE(no video) ~ about 3-4 hrs of music playback on the headphone with Apollo ~ lots and lots of browsing on LTE and Wifi (linus tech tips) ~ about 25-30mins of youtube on LTE and even more on wifi ~ tons of sms and messages on viber ~ 2 emails syncing every 10 mins ~ twitter ~ occasional games(not hard core) and at the end of the day i usually get around 3.5 hrs (at about 25-30% brightness) of screen on time and about a full day of use with out plugging it in for a quick charge. as you can see above there has not been any time where the phone was just idling. this was a very heavy usage day for me and on the nexus 5 idling power usage is excellent. that is more than enough for me. Tweaks go to Settings ---> Wifi --> advanced and turn off "Scanning always available" this will save a lot of battery when you are not on a wifi network. tip: use BetterBatteryStatus (link bellow) to figure out if a App or service is not letting your phone to go in to deepsleep or if something unnecessary is waking the CPU up all the time. i have used a custom kernel(link bellow) but you dont have to use the same kernel and app. there are other ones out there. using the fallowing CPU Core Governors Core 0 = Performance Core 1 = On demand Core 2 = PowerSave Core 3 = PowerSave OR you can put all cores in to Ondemand and get a few more minutes out of your battery. but for the most part it should be the same. also undervolt a bit one step down on each frequency stage (you might be able to squeeze more out on the lower frequencies) before after i have disabled the voice search "hot word" direction because i never have a use for it and it eats through the battery (most probably because of a bug that keep the Processor from going to Deep sleep) turned off auto brightness even with all that i have never felt a stutter or any crashes or slowdowns. Links kernel http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2524557 App for tweaking the Kernel https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.bricked.kcontrol&hl=en Apollo and DSP manager http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2533599 BetterBatteryStatus http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1179809 more Kernels and mods http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2475401 Disclaimer I do not take any responsibility if your phone catches on fire or blows on your face. these tweaks mess with very sensitive stuff. so if your house gets crushed by a falling rock form outer space because you messed up your phone. dont blame me. DO THIS ON YOUR OWN RISK.

Hi everyone, I'm new to the forum and I'd like a bit of help on something that has been playing on my mind recently I currently own a Samsung Galaxy Tab 2 7inch model (also known as the GT-P3110), but as of recently I'm starting to use it less and less, to the point where sometimes it wont get switched on for over 2 weeks... I don't want to get rid of it as I do like using it, but I need a better use for it other than Clash of Clans and YouTube, so I've been wondering; is there a way of using my tablet as a screen extension for games? I know for IOS there is iHud for games such as iRacing, but I'm looking for something similar I can do with Android. For example, If I'm playing Fallout 3 I'd like to have my HUD for health and action points away from my main point of view and onto my tablet where I can track it from there. Does such software exist on either windows or android? Or am I just spending too much time thinking about it, knowing that it won't happen. Either way, please let me know below so I can either do it, or get the idea out of my head thanks! from Lewis

I did a search and nothing came up so here goes: Super Flower extends warranties on all of their PSUs up to five years, yes, FIVE years. http://www.tomshardware.com/news/Super-Flower-PSU-Warranty,23329.html