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In Google chrome, download speeds are not known for being that fast, but it will rely mostly on your internet connection. However, if you are like me and get an average speed of 200KB/s , using this experimental feature in google chrome will help. This may also work on other chromium based browsers, like the new Microsoft Edge. CAUTION: THE FEATURE MENTIONED IS EXPERIMENTAL. CHROME://FLAGS IS KNOWN FOR HAVING FEATURES THAT CAN BE BUGGY/UNRELIABLE/PROBLEMATIC. ALTHOUGH THIS FEATURE SHOULDN'T AFFECT CHROME IN OTHER WAYS, IF YOU FIND PROBLEMS/FEEL UNCOMFORTABLE, DO NOT USE THIS FEATURE. Feature: Parallel Downloading Link/URL: chrome://flags/#enable-parallel-downloading (you will have to copy the link into the browser bar to access the built in flags menu) I was able to go from 200KB/s to 1800KB/s If you have problems finding it, there should be plenty of guides online. Example Guide (First one to pop up on google chrome): https://www.wisecleaner.com/think-tank/266-How-to-Enable-The-Parallel-Downloading-Function-of-Google-Chrome.html (If you think this is worded in a weird or overly formal way, I naturally try to post things on the internet with a very formal format and wording. I subconsciously do it and after reading back through my post, realized that this might come across as too formal, or fake looking. Hopefully you should understand.)

i have a bunch of experimantal drives used by WD and Seagate. is it legal to use them?

All the mainstream sub-zero cooling solutions I've seen on involve liquid cooling, and in every instance there's tremendous focus on preventing condensation from damaging components. I've had an idea in my mind for quite a while that I never considered sharing. I'm aware that it's most likely appeared in the minds of a lot of people and has never materialized (at least not successfully) in the market. I know that it's probably a bad idea; I just wanna know why. What if you run chilled, dehydrated air through a sealed PC enclosure, with the air being circulated back after going continuously through a dehumidifier/cooler system, in a sealed loop? I imagine running just the dehumidifier at first for however long it takes to remove a substantial amount of humidity from the enclosure. This is the step that I'm skeptical of. Are there any sealed areas on the hardware that trap air? Is it possible to flush out every last bit of humid air from every last corner? Once the humidity is low enough, the cooler is turned on and the air is chilled down to a temperature that doesn't cause condensation as per the current level of humidity. The lower you can get the humidity, the cooler you can run the loop without risk of condensation. See the attached diagram.

Ok, so I´m currently experimenting with some tech stuff I have laying around and something came to my mind, is there some way to use one of my graphics card´s hdmi ports to first input a signal, then output it to my Monitor using DP. I´m using a RTX 2080 Super FE and as an input device, I´m planning to use a Chromecast 2nd Gen. So my Question is: Is there any way to use one´s graphics cards output to throughput a signal?

I think we all need to see this, amazing that we have access to this for free now. Quantum computer 5(now 16) Qubits from IBM https://quantumexperience.ng.bluemix.net/qx/editor Learn, run simulator, and then you can request access to real thing to run an experiment. Now I must start my coding for world domination! :-D OMG so exciting.

So this idea came to me from the LTT video where they compare the Alienware Graphics Amplifier against the Razer Core, as seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FHwXOwTgYB0 Where I thought, hang on, don't we already have the technology to do this DIY style? So naturally, I went to PcPartPicker to make a prototype: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/Gy001/saved/#view=87p23C But my question is if you were to put a graphics card inside it would it work? Or if that specific design wouldn't work, would anything? This thread would basically be a free video idea generator if monitored correctly. It could lead to some great ideas for comparisons, PC builds, and other things I can't think of off the top of my head. But the if monitored correctly part can't be stressed enough because there will be those people who post their "Dope AF" PC expecting that you people will make a video out of it "doing a zillion frames per second in Crysis 6 on 3 8K TVs in surround". -Some LTT Vid I can't be bothered to find. So, that, in a nutshell, is my idea, now go forth and ignore it.

The ever denied and shamed case of trying to SLI 2 GTX 1060 has fallen upon me. I happen to now be the owner of 2 different perfectly fonctionning GTX 1060 and I wish them to work together. I am fully aware that 1060s cant be connected trough SLI and that the price to buy 2 would surpass a single 1080, but I got the first full price (EVGA 6BG SSC) and the second for 80$ (Asus 3GB, the white one). I am hence in a case I could benefit in getting them to work together, I think. So the question: how would I go to do this? Any suggestions, ideas and so forth will be appreciated and tried until I can be successful. If it doesn't work, I'll just put the second one on productivity load so dont worry about me. Thanks for any input!

During the Jayztwocents vs Gamers Nexus OC battle, I was confused as to why the contestants used submerged radiators rather than actual liquid-to-liquid heat exchangers. So I thought I'd get one and try it. This is a plate heat exchanger I got as a refurbished spare for a domestic hot water heater for £10 (GBP). It's rated heat transfer is 2.5k when being used to heat water in that application, so I needed to test whether it would work well enough given the much smaller temperature delta between ice water and a PC water cooling loop. If I was patient enough to do this properly I would have tapped G1/4 threads into the ports, but couldn't get access to a pillar drill to do it and fluffed it up a little trying to do it manually. So those barbs are just super-glued into place. With some cheap-ass chinese watercooling parts and semi-decent fittings to build my test unit with, this is the result just before I fired it up. The hot and cold loops counter-flow in opposite directions through the heat exchanger for optimum efficiency, that blue thing you can see in the background is a coolbox full of ice water - as I had that available, I also tested a Cooler Master Seidon v3 240mm AIO I had laying around to see how it compared. The AIO was deployed as-is, with all the dust cleaned out of it, the radiator submerged and finally with an additional pump (borrowed from the heat exchanger) to circulate the water around the coolbox. The CPU block attached to the heat exchanger hot loop is also a cheap chinese thing, it does have some 1mm channels cut into the cold plate running between the two ports, but it's still primitive AF. The test bench has a delidded, LM'd, Devil's Canyon i5-4690K running at 1.35v and 4.5GHz, 1.85v Vrin. Moderate LLC settings have been applied. The test load is Prime95 v29.8b6 Small FFTs FMA3, measurements are CPU Package temperature measures from HWiNFO64. Reported CPU Package Power consumption during the tests is ~180W. AIO - Dusty: 36C Idle, 98C Load AIO - Clean: 35C Idle, 94C Load AIO - Ice, static: 15C Idle, 75C Load AIO - Ice, flow: 12C Idle, 65C Load Heat Exchanger: 10C Idle, 57C Load So yeah, worked pretty well. Concept proved (like it needed it.) Would be interested to see how it stacks up against larger radiators but I don't have any lying around I can use. Never mind. It needs some improvements. The heat exchanger itself has some kind of residue inside it that seems to be burnt into place, I've tried to clean it out chemically to no avail and a fair amount of flakey bits broke off into both loops during these tests. The connection to the heat exchanger itself leaks in a few places and the water block was crap, but my main idea is to add some temperature sensors to the two loops, along with atmospheric temperature and humidity sensors, allowing a controller to calculate the dew point and adjust the flow rate through the cold loop to maintain the hot-side of the loop condensation-free as a safety feature, not to mention self-detecting fire-and-forget smart ice-bucket cooling that runs just above the dew point sounds like a cool idea. Condensation built up on cold loop, the heat exchanger and the hot loop reservoir very quickly, but not so quickly on the hot loop tubing and the water block - lots of wiping it off though, had to remove the fan I placed on the RAM (blood was indeed shed to bring you these results.) Soggy CPU socket, but it survived a few hours of HWBOT runs after these tests no problem - can't waste 6Kg of ice now, can I? Pay no attention to the thermal paste spread, thermals were fairly even across the cores in use, the lop-sided remnants here are from where I had to man-handle the block to get the suction to release. Also please ignore the rough edges, I had to dremel the AMD bits of the bracket off to get it to fit. But do pay attention to the condensation that built up on the underside of the block. So yeah, hopefully you actually get to see the images here, as opposed to when I tried to post this on Reddit and it's .jpg processing immediately broke. Suck it, /r/overclocking! Hey Alex and Linux, next crazy cooling experiment, perhaps?

Hello there! I have found myself in a bit of a weird spot, as there is not much specific information about something like this. I have a GTX 1080, which normally I'd use for everything. However, I'm going to switch to a CRT Monitor pretty soon, and I'd not rather use digital to analog conversion, but analog straight away. You might know though, that starting from the 10 series GPUs from Nvidia, they dropped DVI-I support, meaning it no longer is capable to directly output analog (shame!). The CRT monitor obviously only works on VGA. I also have a GTX 580 lying around, which does happen to have DVI-I. This means if I was to only use the GTX 580, it can power the CRT, no input-lag adding adapter needed. Two main questions: (1) I wanna know if I can somehow use my GTX 1080 ingame to actually perform the calculations, and then somehow direct that output to my second GPU, so it can, without additional delay, transmit in analog to my CRT. (2) If not, can I at least keep the GTX 580 running alongside my GTX 1080, and plug in the CRT into my GTX 580, using it as the GPU for only certain games (like CS:GO), while being able to play any other game with my GTX 1080 on my main monitor? The idea is: Nvidia Controlpanel does allow you to "select a GPU" for certain applications, so I could set up a manual application profile for CS:GO, and select my GTX 580 there. Is that somehow possible? I'm on Windows 10, and for completions sake, here is my rig data: i7 6800k, MSI x99a SLI-Plus, 24GB 3000Mhz DDR4 Ram, MSI GTX 1080, Gainward GTX 580 (not plugged in currently) I'll be interested for *any* insight you guys might have! Maybe this could spark an interesting discussion, or maybe even make it to an LTT vid? :) Best regards, Rankhole

Hey all, So this is my first time posting to the forum. I am trying to build a beast of a liquid cooling setup. I am the Software Engineering Lead on a team to build a robot that can theoretically mine for future Martian colonies. We are using some standard off the shelf parts and a budget of several thousand US dollars. The problem is we want to cool this without the use of fans. Basically, we are going to take a cooling block and pump liquid around the CPU that then is pumped into a massive radiator array. Pictures and comments will follow, but I just wanted to see what people think about this or if anyone had questions about the system in general. Again, pictures and videos of the interior of the system will follow. Edit (4/17/2018): It is looking like we will use an electric thermopile to chill the coolant in the radiator/reservoir that will, in turn, bring down the CPU temps so not that far off the "CPU cooler bong" brought up by RoyalGamer1.

So today I thought of testing a Typhoon brand pci fan after watching Linus's video on Reference cards "Blower" style external fans vs. "Windforce" style internal exhaust fans. I don't think he mentions PCI slot fans in the video but it was the first thing that came to my mind. I tested the fan in three configs, One without(sample), One with the fan in the slot right next to the GPU and the last being one slot empty between. For this test, I'm using an internal exhaust style Gigabyte GTX 750 TI 2XOC(with an extra +150 mhz core and +50 Mhz memory offset to boot) and used Unigine Valley Benchmark set at ultra quality, x2 AA, and 720p(yeah being poor) for ten minutes each to let them heat up. The first test gave a respectable average Cpu temp(with stock intel fan and 2500) 55*c and 58*c on the gpu. The second test was a bit of a flop, the fan was positioned right next to one of the gpu fans with no room in between. I cut the test early because my gpu was getting into the 70's and cpu temps were only a few degrees lower, udder failure. The last option turned out to make up for the last, with the fan spaced with an extra pci width between it and the gpu I say some promising numbers. after ten minutes, the average cpu temps were around 50*c and the gpu took much longer to reach the higher 50's capping out at 56. So if you have 10-15 Usd and can stand the hum of this fan(about 30 decibels) it can be a good option for cases that don't have good mounting for fans. sound test.mp4

So I bought rust quite a few months ago and it was extremely fun and addicting,I played countless hours with friends, but then they decided to take the game to the next step and introduced an experimental stage which was utter garbage at first. I just recently logged back on to check it out and Rust literally looks like a new game, I can definitely say they made the game much more complex and enjoyable that it ever was, the UI, sound effects, music, and game mechanics have all changed. So for anyone like me that was waiting for the game to become more stable, now's the time to check it out A little vid of what the gameplay looks like if you're wondering:

I am looking for a good external monitor, and was looking for recommendations and was wondering, could I use my Gallaxy S2 as a monitor like and how did he achieve this? or could I use a build like this both would be cheaper than 7inch monitors and have higher resolutions so would this be possible? And what are some other alternatives that would be fine?