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Found 1,631 results

  1. I've built a lot of systems... the last several builds I've been using EVGA supernova 80+ platinum power supplies... well... I have had THREE fail. When I used to buy the cheapest for necessary wattage, I never had any fail, even the cheap corsair ones. I've had 2 1000 watts fail, and most recently an 850watt, but this ones a little more interesting. I'm watching youtube of all things, I know so stressful right, and my PC just shuts off (BTW was 66 degree in the room, quite chilly, I have super fine filters on ALL intakes, corsair air 740 case so the power supply has its own damn room, AND I have 7 case fans....). Go to turn it on and only runs for a few seconds, eventually I got it to run, brought my video back up only for it to turn off 5 minutes later. So I do some googling and find out back in 2013 EVGA admitted to screwing up thermal pads (reminds me of gpu issue recently), and this was causing them to shut themselves off basicly due to overheating. Well, I found 100s of people even lots in 2016 still having the same issue, I would have opened it myself and tried to get things running cooler, but I don't want to void the warranty, so I took my air blaster (what I call it), put it to the back of the psu, and whala, it works. Typing this right now on the same system although I can't hear anything due to the sound of a jet engine. Yes, I tried booting without massive airflow after the successful run, and it shut down after about 10 seconds. Might glue a damn noctua IPPC fan on the back of it as exhaust.... What I'm using to get the airflow: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S7CH6FK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Surge protectors I use: https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Protector-INSURANCE-SUPER7B/dp/B00AAHT8AQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1510886324&sr=8-6&keywords=tripp+lite+surge+protector&dpID=312BuLFAcfL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch TLDR; I will never trust EVGA power supplies again! Edit: Anyone have a recommendation on PSU with PROVEN reliability? Tier 1 is cool and all but these EVGA p2's are tier one and yeah... screw em... Update for the people tripping over themselves seeing EVGA cast in a negative light and don't want to read the thread: To kind of wrap this up, I don't hate EVGA or anything, and their PSUs should be very high quality, they even feel solid, have great warranties, quality components etc. However, until a few years ago I focused on building budget systems, so obviously high end PSU was out of the question. And not a single one failed, I mostly bought corsair CX600 which are what tier 4? Fast forward to high end systems, did some research, went with EVGA, took pride in using them. But one broke, whatever it happens. Another broke, hmmm..... And now another one, I'm done lol... for now 3 strikes your out right? I'm sure I'll revisit them one day, but when I had a flawless track record with cheap PSUs I mean... what else can I think... With that being said I'm still going to use tier 1, just another brand. If 3 years goes by and no issues, I'll stick with them, if it is the same deal all over again then back to the drawing board. Maybe luck, maybe an oversight, maybe 1% of 100 different factors that added up to something failing in a silly way, who knows.
  2. EVGA or MSI GTX 1080 Ti?

    Sup, building a new rig this winter and I'm debating on whether to get the EVGA FTW3 Gaming or MSI Gaming X Trio. Would love some thoughts or opinions. This is slightly off topic, but what's your opinion of the Asrock Taichi Z370 vs MSI Gaming M5? If I get the EVGA Card I'd go Asrock MB and I'd get the MSI MB if I get the MSI Card. Thanks
  3. MSI Armor vs EVGA FTW 3 1080 TI

    At my local microcenter, the MSI 1080 TI Armor is around 710 USD while the EVGA FTW3 1080 TI is around 800 USD which is almost A HUNDRED dollars more. Should I save money & go for the armor? & will these 2 cards provide a difference in gaming other then looks?
  4. My board is sending no beep codes at all and it will not post and btw is the orange led by the ram supposed to be lit up?
  5. I've used both of these programs but I really don't like the ugly interface apparently made to impress tween gamer youths, or the poor graphing options. I just need fan control and performance monitoring, but not overclocking. Is there any alternative that uses a normal Windows interface and allows graph customization and logging? Rivatuner doesn't seem to have been updated for many years.
  6. VEGA 64 with a EVGA 600B?

    Question. Hey so I just ordered a VEGA 64 (air cooled) and I'm wondering if I'm going to have to upgrade my EVGA 600B PSU..? I have an older system, i7 2600 3.4, 16gb ddr3, two 140mm fans, 2 120mm fans (one is part of the corsair h60 cpu cooler). An SSD, two HDDs, and an optical drive. (my old card I sold is in the attached picture) Thank for the help guys!
  7. EVGA G3 NOISE

    Hi everybody. I spent an awfull amount on money making my dream machine, but and thats a big BUT. I bought the EVGA G3 850W since the spec said it would't start fan spinning until my computer reached a 400watts powerdraw. The truth is that if i run it in "eco" mode, the fan starts spinning full speed hairblower style in desktop mode. 2 times everyhour just surfing the web. I took this supply since all the awesome reviews it got from reputable reviewers out there. the specs says it has a 130mm fan Hydraulic Dynamic Bearing. And they leave a 10 year warranty. I've never sen such fan last 10 years. And i could take it if the fan was on low in none eco mode. But now eco mode is off and the fan is like a loud crappy fan at 1000rpm. I do know, that i shouldn't open it up for a change of fan since there is danger in it. But have anyone tried to open it up for a fan change? 130mm isn't standard. if anyone? is it possible to mount a silent 120/140mm in it?
  8. So PEEPS i'm currently looking for a laptop and i want u guys to list the best bang for ur buck gaming laptop
  9. Hi , I need some help to choose which GPU i need to buy , i have $600 to spend on it ,and i have been watching videos on youtube and reading and i didn't have a conclusion yet , please can somebody help me .The cards are Asus Strix 1080 A8G and EVGA 1080 FTW2 . I was watching videos and EVGA has more base clock but for me that doesnt mean to much , cause i dont know about computers and i would like to know the experiences from people and gamers .Thanks
  10. hi, i am making a build that is a 350w build. however i am considering buying slightly overkill PSU for future upgrade. a website has recommended that i use the evga 500b (500w and 80+ bronze). is this good wattage and a good power suppy. (btw have done a similar post but nobody is responding to my other one anymore so this may be familiar if u were there before) my build: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/
  11. RMA Questions

    Hi All So I just submitted my first ever RMA to EVGA because the new 1070 I just bought doesn't want to work properly and i've tried everything! I have a few questions and I wondered if anyone can help from experience with EU EVGA Support? -Firstly, is it true that I will have to pay to ship them the broken 1070? (seems a bit unfair considering that I just spent £400 on their card ) - Secondly, any idea how long the process may take if anyone has had to do an EU EVGA RMA before? (Being without a GPU is killing me!) - And last but not least is it true that they send refurbished cards as replacements? (Was kinda hoping that I would get a new one, as I might aswell of just got a used card from Ebay if so ) Thanks!
  12. Im on a budget and i plan to get a ryzen 5 and a 1060/|1070 in the future. i have now a fx6300 and a 1050ti. I need a new PSU because my old Thermaltake 650w smart die. In my country i have these options: CX550m Corsair Evga 600B Seasonic S12II 520W I found over the web many reviews of these psu and some of them said that are excellent products but some other people said that are shit. i dont know what to do. pd:sorry if my english is wrong
  13. 1070 Issues

    Hi All I just got my new EVGA 1070 SC and having issues already. I uninstalled my GTX 970 then installed the 1070, I then booted in safe mode and ran Device Driver Uninstaller, restarted and used Geforce Experience to install the latest drivers. Once I rebooted after the install I was greeted with a 800x600 login page with green and purple dots all over the top of the screen which moved when hovered over. They remained after logging in. My screen also keeps going blank and also constantly freezes. I then rebooted and it seemed fine but as soon as I launched a game it lasted about 10 seconds before crashing with the error: 'c++ runtime error r6025 pure virtual function call'. I checked that the power cords were firmly inserted and the same issue occurs. I have also not overclocked the card at all, all default from the box. I plugged my GTX 970 back in (and am typing this post using it in my system) and all is fine, tried running some games and it works as it did before. I guess I should of stuck with MSI Any ideas to help/troubleshoot more would be massively appreciated, do you think this sounds like a possible RMA? Thanks!
  14. Hello, has anyone tried using a non ASUS GPU with ASUS AURA? Thanks! Luca
  15. PSU pinouts

    I want to make custom sleeved cables for my power supply, but first I need a pin out so I don't blow anything up. My power supply is the EVGA supernova G2 650w. Does anyone have any pin outs already or any ideas on how I can create my own pin outs? Thanks in advance for your help.
  16. Phone Cooling

    I figured out a quick way to keep a phone from overheating. Thoughts?
  17. GPU Question

    Hey guys, I've got a question regarding overclocked GPUs and, well, I don't understand jack about overclocking other than it boosts performance. And I know that I definitely want a 1080 for this build. I was suggested an EVGA 1080 SC2 for my new build I'm putting together, but I'm shaky when overclocking comes into play. I do not plan on overclocking anything about my build until a time in the future when I'm confident enough to do so; so naturally the mention of the suggested "superclocked" GPU threw me for a loop. I was originally going to get a Gigabyte 1080, but was advised otherwise into an EVGA due to their superior customer service, heat management of the GPU, and general quality of the GPU. Sounds good to me, I'm willing to pay a bit more for something better. But, what do you guys think? I know nothing of overclocking and it's benefits/drawbacks versus not overclocking. Is it worth purchasing the overclocked-out-of-the-box version of the 1080, or should I purchase the non-overclocked one for my own peace of mind? Either way, a 1080 is a massive upgrade for me. And I say "peace of mind" because I always have associated overclocking with shortening the lifespan of a component and generating more heat, and I'd generally like to keep the lifespan at a maximum, and heat generation at a minimum. For reference, if needed, my build is the following: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/gdCFQV Thanks guys!
  18. evga psu

    so im looking for a psu around the 600 to 750 ish for around $100-$140can and looking for 5-10 year warranty. im also looking for a stander sizes fan so 120mm or 140mm not the 130mm or 135mm each psu i look up i get diffrent specs for the fan sizes. evga says one thing, ncix says another, same with ammazon and newegg so witch one is right. i made a little list but it might not be 100% right. my pc is a i5 6600k skylake (low wats) and an 170h mb. im thinking on getting a 1060 or a 1070 with a gtx 780 lighting gaming it pulls about 240ish wats and idel its around 100 wats form a wat meter. also if you recommend another psu .any why you recommend it. i do have a 700ish wat xfx psu in there that is still ruining pass it 5 year warty (dose make a bit of nose form the fan but probably because its on its side and not flat) any info would be helpfull thx $88.10 5 year 650w semi mod 140mm fan https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/8RvZxr/evga-bq-650w-80-bronze-certified-semi-modular-atx-power-supply-110-bq-0650-v1 $89.68 5 year 650w full 130mm fan https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/Hwbkcf/evga-b3-650w-80-bronze-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-220-b3-0650-v1 $90.13 5 year 750w semi mod 140m fan https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/xLs8TW/evga-bq-750w-80-bronze-certified-semi-modular-atx-power-supply-110-bq-0750-v1 $108.75 10 year 650w full 135 fan https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/g63RsY/evga-power-supply-120g10650xr $129 10 year 750w full 135 https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/Nd4gXL/evga-power-supply-120g10750xr $132.90 10 year 750w full 140 https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/MfJwrH/evga-power-supply-220g20750xr $139.55 10 year 650w full 140 fan https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/6p8H99/evga-power-supply-220p20650x1 $141.75 10 year 750 full 130 fan https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/dMM323/evga-supernova-g3-750w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-220-g3-0750 $174.18 10 year 850w full 130 fan https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/PvDzK8/evga-supernova-g3-850w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-220-g3-0850 $171.22 10 year 850w full 140 fan https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/LCfp99/evga-power-supply-220g20850xr\ $161 10 year 750 full 140 fan https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/jBZ2FT/evga-power-supply-220p20750x1 $179 10 year 850w full 135 fan led https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/jLcMnQ/evga-g2l-850w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-220-gl-0850-x1
  19. OK, so here's my issue, I'm looking into selling my two Evga 1070's sc to buy a 1080ti. Why, because I want to to a custom water loop and I don't think ill have room for everything in my PC.(NZXT S340 Elite) also I think I would be saving money rather then buying two water blocks for my GPU. All I'm really looking for is opinions on what I should do maybe suggestions. And I was wondering could I buy any 1080 ti because i'm taking the stock heat spreader off any way? Does the brand still matter for the quality of the GPU? Or should I wait until "the next big thing". I know that's a ways out yet.(end of 2018) I really don't want to wait that long. CPU Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-6700K CPU @ 4.50GHz Motherboard Sabertooth Z170s RAM 32.0GB Dual-Channel DDR4 @ 2400MHz (16-16-16-39) GPU NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1070 SC (EVGA) X2 Case NZXT S340 Elite Storage 500 GB Samsung 850 EVO - 4TB WD Enterpise Harddrive PSU EVGA 750W gold Display(s) Phillips 27" (1920x1080@144Hz) Keyboard Corsair STRAFE RGB Mouse Corsair Gaming M65 Pro RGB Sound Creative OS Windows 10 64 bit
  20. I recently acquired a new better graphic's card from a friend of mine (EVGA GTX 980 Classified Edition). Unfortunately, he did not fully inform me of what the graphics card was beforehand, and it turns out that the card I received will not fit my current case. Now, while I could just take a Dremel to my case to make room for the card, I'm considering getting a new case all together in order to put the least amount of effort into this upgrade. That being said, there are some preferences I would like to have met. The case I currently have is an NZXT Guardian 921 Red. I would like for the new case to be able to support 5.25" drives since I have a blu-ray drive installed in my current one. (A disc drive in a pc in 2017. Unbelievable right?) It would also be preferred to have support for 3.5" drives as well since I have a card reader as well, but it's not exactly a necessity since I think I have a mount somewhere that can make it fit in a 5.25" bay. Beyond that, the board I'm using is a ATX motherboard. I would prefer Mid-sized case, but if necessary I can make a Full-sized case work. I'd like to spend under $100(USD) but if something appeals to me for more I'll consider it. Anyone got any suggestions? (tl;dr, I'm an idiot and didn't check his specs before receiving a gift and now I have a card that doesn't fit in my rig, need a new case)
  21. What gpu should i get

    Should i get an gtx 1080 founders edition or a EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 SC GAMING ACX 3.0, 8GB GDDR5X, LED, DX12 OSD Support (PXOC) Graphics Card 08G-P4-6183-KR please help
  22. Help in choosing a GPU

    Hey If I was to buy a new GPU I was wondering I do have an Evga GTX 550TI and what if I just bought Another one of those and did SLI would it be better than something like a 750TI. Altho if I was going with the road of SLI 550TI I would need a new motherboard but I might just do that anyway. Thanks
  23. So..... I started my new build about a week ago.m. Original plan was white and black theme with RGBW (true white led's). Well it turns out that no matter if it has real white leds or mixes the colors together that no white is ever the same and that also goes with same manufactures. Heck my motherboard has RGBW built into it but some of the led's on the board are not rgbw but a few are? I decided to keep white/black but go for RGB(W) as well. I am not a big RGB fan but I mean it beats 4 different colored white lights so I started the quest to get everything controlled through the motherboard and that is very very hard granted I already had a 1080 and a few other things already. In the process of trying to see how to possibly replace my LED's on my EVGA 1080 FTW I figured out that they were already wired for RGB with 12V of power just to be controlled by EVGA software, so those will be next when my connectors get here because I don't want to just clip off the ends of my expensive cards. But the SLI bridge is another story. Yes gigabyte, and Asus have RGB SLI bridges but I have EVGA cards and already have a bridge so I took my it apart and looked inside. RGBW okay time to mod.... I did look around a bit and am surprised that in searching for this I never found it. Here is a video of it in acton. https://photos.app.goo.gl/AlHHaEIcu9M9oKJp2 (Don't mind the 8700k with a stock intel cooler ) The opened SLI bridge with RGBW connector cut off (After an hour of searching digi-key I was unable to figure out what kind it was so time to solder. I am guessing its 30 AWG wire. Shaved the bridge so the tiny wires could pass through. Solder is done and add first layer of heatshrink. 2nd layer of heatshrink and added wire sleeving . 2 more layers of heatshrink to protect the solder joints since I only had 24AWG wire to solder to the 30AWG wires and a compete mod, very happy I did this. Next the videocards as they have RGB 12v and use 4 pin gpu mini fan header and they are on the way.
  24. I want to know this cards wether have a heat pipe or a large area Vapor Chamber.EVGA did not give an official dismantling picture. In addition, I need a test or test video, and I haven't found any information about it. Thank you.
  25. The EVGA G2 lineup is considered by many to be very high quality, the P2 considered fantastic, but the latest testing by professional reviewers shows that some or perhaps all of these units have a serious flaw that won't harm the PSU but could harm your other hardware. It's important to explain the concepts before anything. Very few reviewers test for this stuff - Aris, who does power supply reviews on Tomshardware and Techpowerup, very recently started a new test. This new test shows that many units have newly revealed flaws, and this problem exists with the EVGA G2 and P2 lineup. The EVGA G2 series is a direct copy of the Superflower Leadex Gold series. The EVGA P2 series is a direct copy of the Superflower Leadex Platinum series. Old Hold-Up Time Tests In the past, most power supply reviewers would test "hold-up time" as the amount of time from when there is AC loss (i.e. power outage) to when the unit shuts off, while under full load. For example, if a power supply is under 100% load and there is a power outage, if it takes 20ms for the power supply to shut off, it would be defined as having a hold-up time of 20ms. However, this is not an actual test with what hold-up time really is, and new tests reveal new realities. The old hold-up time tests are not in exact accordance with the definition of hold-up time. Hold-Up Time Hold-up time is defined as the time period from when there is AC loss to when a voltage goes below ATX specification. The ATX specification for the 12V rail is from 11.4V to 12.6V. So if there is AC loss and it takes a power supply 20ms until its 12V voltage gets down to 11.4V, then 20ms is the hold-up time. Some people incorrectly define hold-up time as the time between AC loss and when the power supply shuts off. This is incorrect; a power supply may actually shut itself off after hold-up time. Hold-up time is strictly the amount of time from AC loss until a voltage goes out of specification. AC_LOSS to PWR_OK_OFF When there is AC loss, the voltage outputs of the power supply begin to drop to lower numbers. It is the job of the circuitry of the power supply to detect this and shut off the unit before the voltages go below the ATX specification. Basically, under-voltage protection. Before any of those voltages go out of specification, the power supply is supposed to cut the PWR_OK signal. The PWR_OK signal is a cable in the main 24-pin ATX cable used to communicate with the motherboard. When on, it's telling the motherboard that its voltages are all safe. When the PWR_OK signal is cut, circuitry is supposed to shut off the power supply as fast as possible so the voltages don't go out of specification. The latest testing methods in renowned power supply reviews are AC_LOSS to PWR_OK tests. This tests the duration of time it takes from there being AC loss to the computer dropping the PWR_OK signal. So, for example, if there is a power outage, your computer is under full load, and your power supply has an AC_LOSS to PWR_OK time of 18ms, then in 18ms your power supply will tell your motherboard, "Hey! Voltages are about to get low. Better shut me off now." And then the unit will be shut down quite rapidly once the PWR_OK signal is dropped. There is a catch though: some power supply units drop the PWR_OK signal after the voltages go out of specification. This means when there is AC_LOSS, the power supply will continue providing the computer with energy as those voltages go deeper and deeper below the ATX specification. Once it gets to a certain low point, then it'll cut the PWR_OK signal, after harm has already been done. In a way, this is a cheating method used by power supply manufacturers to do well on old hold-up time tests that check the duration of AC_LOSS to PSU shutdown time. This cheating method is also dangerous. EVGA G2 550 Flaw The EVGA 550 G2 has this exact flaw. It drops the PWR_OK signal at 10.8V. This information can be found at the Tomshardware Superflower Leadex Gold 550 review here: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/super-flower-leadex-gold-550w-power-supply,4416-4.html Some of you may be thinking, "Oh, it's just 10.8V, no big deal." No, this is a big deal. Power supply experts like Aris (who did the above review) say it is a serious matter, as well as the experts on the Jonnyguru forums. It is a serious issue, and the EVGA 550 G2 should not be purchased because of it, especially in areas where there are frequent power outages. It is important to note that Aris did do a review on the EVGA 550 G2 here, but that was before these new tests came about. EVGA P2 Series Assumed Flaw Most likely, the entire EVGA P2 lineup has the same issue, but right now it is merely speculation (but a pretty good one). The Superflower Leadex Platinum 550 review here: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/super-flower-leadex-platinum-550w-power-supply,4281-4.html This review was before the PWR_OK to AC_LOSS tests. Hold-up time was tested to be 13.8ms. That is below the ATX specification. There is no doubt in my mind that it probably drops the PWR_OK signal at 10.8V just like the EVGA 550 G2, in order to "cheat" and get good hold-up times on the old hold-up time tests. EVGA T2 is Safe The EVGA Titanium lineup has been tested and does not have this issue. EVGA G2: Rest of Lineup As of now, the non-550W versions of the EVGA G2 lineup may have these issues, but we cannot know for sure. Power supply experts are pretty confident the rest of the G2 lineup does have this problem, which is very important. What to do Now? Realize that sometimes units we think are incredible really are not. Everybody likes to go around forums talking about how fantastic the EVGA G2 lineup is, but with this problem, how can it be? It shouldn't make any high tier on any list, because Superflower cheats to get good hold-up time on old tests, and sets far too low under-voltage protection values. It is a serious matter, because the VRMs of all your hardware can be seriously affected by such a low voltage, 10.8V. There is a reason the ATX specification exists. 10.8V is two times out of the specification.
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