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Found 38 results

  1. So, I'm wanting to build a Sleeper PC. I've got parts figured out for the most part, but one thing that has me stumped is how to utilize the old style rocker switches from way back when as a power button. Of course they were the actual 'power' switches, but now it's just an electronic switch that signals the PC to boot up from a dormant state more or less. Basically I need a way to make a rocker switch into a temporary switch, so that it does not shut the PC off immediately after getting turned on. If this is possible, I'd really appreciate the help. Thanks!
  2. Budget (including currency): Unknown Country: United States Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Basic Photo/Video editing Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): Hello, So I am currently planning a build that involves an iMac G3. I want to retrofit a modern hackintosh inside and want to mount an lcd panel to replace the screen that is installed. My plan is to use a 13inch 16:9 screen and add bezels on the side. The issue I am running into while planning it out is powering the screen. I found a few LCD panels that can fit as well as control boards with HDMI out. These control boards require a DC 12V connection to power the screen. I am aware the 6 pin connector on a power supply can supply 12V and was wondering how likely as well as difficult it would be to rig this up. I have no electrical background what so ever. I know it would be easier to run a 2nd power cable out of the back of the system to power the monitor but I would like to make the computer as minimum as possible with the exception of being able to connect a 2nd screen (because come on, 13 inches isn't enough). Is this plan far fetched or do I have the right idea on how to achieve this. Control Board - https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-LP133WF4-1920X1080-EDP-Screen-LCD-LED-HDMI-VGA-controller-board-DIY-kit/163224891699?hash=item2600f63133:m:mcO81ChL-ToxuaZrPdmnZOQ&autorefresh=true LCD Panel - https://www.ebay.com/itm/13-3-IPS-LCD-Display-Screen-LP133WF4-SPB1-for-Lenovo-Ideapad-710S-1080P-30pins/202515551015?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item2f26de1327:g:OVwAAOSwPEhcf2nD&enc=AQAEAAACYIQvEcHUrT7nmUC3yY5qbPyaBN1nJEDYW8MyypsJPgXKxIntehGqQQl8nLx%2FEZs3RgioO0JxRNPl0aEhWcYdYNcamRgpiFHfEU%2F%2FGNLQhfYwX0eGUeK4ENfdDDHJ44xg%2FNFJSqBRSQYm%2FJvjrv8Fo%2FRTC2s74%2BZk9FSmCGINxNdtE6hteC7aoI6QU7Kst%2BmzdRnoSgZdn032TLjYBG0d6uhLaA3S5754Sod6YJV0dKMiRB6XsL4Cam0zNV5b9A0dZh0g4EUVcH2jy8nWj5zRN4ug%2FX9dGbmP1UB6fHKgzPhcjKjqeHYkBZmzYr5Bq4uVYv5cWrcl377YeWiYwqm6pwffrPyCXZqsj1M2aWETACjzJ510vs9M0%2BSYU8sbK5pMOTvyf2ReAxPgBckC54KWOGaTXlr5eR9%2FzGJW4RlQ%2BuzmFz0pKz1jKm%2FdjncCym0a4ovSgmiZLVNfXdEfqnvZAJPkr4qmNfsT3Z1dcKmpOlpPV334CIQyet%2BT%2Fn3zhS4l0kl4NDvARNOD%2BIonuXU9L%2FAfg9zLBWw0EOPoNcsLc0j10NzBo136xAIDD0FOy8k0vq3q64OaxyS%2F7eCak2sVr5vbnXamRCjngPdhcyCW2X6ThSp%2FQZZCi3a31JYV33Wrpnp2DfS3KJqG98smZFmJs9OjFOCQNa5L83Okdu3JVUFBpLevnWV8iKtk5m4S9xK9ZwLagxyKpHcJiGKQWpngf7g6xTZqaj6Bu2VU6MzRgNjCUXScYZ%2BRvqyh%2FOKBX6rrUh4RFtkwtmSYPkcX%2BD9z%2Fl6tij%2BlLIQpLMU1uHES4oeW&checksum=2025155510156c474662d03342598810a85ab516f189
  3. Hey everyone so I recently upgraded the built in cooler in my Deepcool genome 1 as it's 4+ years old and Deepcool isn't considered the most reliable brand. But while swapping things over I noticed something werid. The front LEDs that would pulse periodically were actually connected to the water pump. I don't know if they receive power or if it was a sensor merely to tell the lights when to pulse. I mateched the cables by color and removed the unnecessary 2 cables on the fan connector, and soldered them together. I am wondering if this will work or if im going to just overvolt something by using my ghetto adapter.
  4. Hello, I need your help. it started 3 or 4 months ago, after a year of usage my gigabyte z390 aorus pro started to buzz heavily from the VRM area on the IO side, but not idle, the idle sound is minimal and I'd have to nitpick and get real close to hear it. the electrical sound only ramps up in Game, a heavy game... like Division 2 or Destiny 2, anything heavier than Diablo 2 or Synthetik. I've tried everything, disabled CPU boost, checked the PSU cables, sent the GPU, CPU, PSU and MOBO to RMA... got a new MOBO the 1st time I RMA'd (same model), still buzzing sound in games. sent it to RMA again, got a new MOBO and MSI this time, still buzzes. changed RAM to 2400 instead of 3200, disconnected the Corsair AIO RGB usb cable, changed PSU CPU power cable, even after RMA-ing everything. twice they said everything was ok, and they can't hear buzzing while testing it all. I don't know what to do. updates BIOS, downgraded BIOS... changed wall sockets, changed monitors, changed PC power cabels, changed DP screen cables. (all this after RMA, I still have warranty). reinstalled windows... disabled XMP... everything, tried everything I could. changed extension cords... everything. next thing I'm trying is changing the cooler, disabling all the RGB and RGB hub. Funny thing, IDK if it's a problem, but the CPU is base 3.6k and boost 4.7k Ghz, but it boosts on its own to 4840Ghz and a little beyond, I'm confused. Spec: MOBO - MSI z370 gaming pro carbon CPU - 9900k RAM - G.skill tridentZ 3200Mhz GPU - Asus Strix 2080ti SSD - Samsung 850 EVO 250Gb M.2 - Samsung 970 EVO plus NVMe 500Gb PSU - seasonic focus plus platinum 850W CPU cooler - Corsair H115i RGB PLATINUM 280mm AIO Got 3 Corsair ML RGB fans connected too, and a fan hub and the RGB controller that comes with the Corsair stuff and it's in a corsair case... not that it matters, it's a 500D. and the Screen is an Asus with G-syinc... I'm adding all this because I'm very desperate. Last note... it does not buzz (the VRM area near IO) when I bench in Cinebench or FurMark, but it does in 3Dmark. Again, the PSU, GPU, CPU, and MOBO got RMA'd, everything came back working and no noise was reported.RAM got changed, cables got changed. I would be very thankful for any help, I don't know what to do and I have a $3000 netflix watching brick on my desk. Listen in a higher volume, I recorded it not so great... but trust me, it sounds like a taser. opened and closed case.
  5. I am hoping to get some advice here to track down a potential ground loop, or serious source of EMI/RFI (not sure if conducted or radiated). I figured there are some techie folks on here so maybe I can get some advice. I have a host of non destructive computer and peripherals related problems. The issue manifest as input lag (mouse, keyboard), degraded sound quality (muddied, and shallow sound), degraded wireless (throughout the house) and wired internet performance, screen artifacts (noise), and degraded display (hitching, tearing). I have confirmed that it is not hardware related: 4 different PC's (Windows 8.1, Windows 10, and 1 laptop (Windows 7) 3 Monitors Multiple Keyboards, Mice, Headphones, Speakers Multiple Modems, Routers, and all new cables (shielded and non- shielded Ethernet and Display port cables do help slightly I believe. Observations: Using different circuits and configurations (power strips, or conditioners) around the house which changes the input delays and performance. Moving cables away from each other helps even data cables are messing with each other. Placing a phone on PC makes the mouse sensitivity feel two times as fast. Placed ferrite cores and toroids onto data, and power cables changes mouse tracking, sound and display quality, and internet performance. Different power strips, Gold and Platinum rated PSUs, a Furman power conditioner, and a Tripp Lite double conversion UPS. UPS does something makes the input latency better, and the power conditioner helped for a few days. The power conditioner helped the most with the sound and display issues. Seems to be better at night but only slightly. When an appliance in the home is switched on the amount of data latency, input lag and display issues amplifies. Any setting in Windows or BIOS changes how the mouse preforms (power settings, and fans speeds do the most), however after some time it seems to degrade back to the same point. Wifi in the home continually cuts out and some weird stuff like if my modem and router are one the same power strip the Wifi will not work. Desktop PCs connected to Wifi even two feet away from router makes the input latency lower however there is full one second stutters in games, browsers and video streams. Used my PC at a friends house in another city and it works perfectly fine, night and day from my setup at home. I am actually shocked at how much deeper sound, colors and consistency of mouse tracking is compared to at my house. I have had the power company out twice, and had two electricians check my grounding, neutrals, and outlets. All come clean. I poked around with an AM radio and while there are some sources of noise around the house, nothing stands out. My laptop on battery works better at random times yet still has the same issues. Found several posts relating to the issue and it seems they all observe the same symptoms: https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/1055893-power-issues-can-cause-input-latency-issues/ https://forums.blurbusters.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=3641 https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/bafhfe/update_after_years_of_mouse_input_lag_and_other/ http://www.jonnyguru.com/forums/showthread.php?16546-Major-input-lag-caused-by-Power-issues-in-House I have tried a few power conditioners (Furman) that work pretty good for a day or two then its back to the same old degraded quality. I believe this is similar to what I have seen with ferrite and toroid cores in that they seem to saturate and once they do the filtering qualities are pretty much gone. Now this is where it gets interesting. I have a Tripp Lite double conversion UPS which helps a bit with the consistency of inputs and the display quality but ultimately the issue is still entirely there. This does not make much sense if the problem truly stems from the power company but one thing I have noticed is if I pull that plug for my UPS, then for the few minutes I run truly off of battery, everything is perfect. Then when I plug the unit back in the lag comes back fully within a minute- almost like it builds up resistance or something. I believe what is happening here is by unplugging the unit (UPS) I am effectively floating the ground which seems to be the source of the issues here. In a double conversion unit like mine the only thing that is not filtered is that passed through connection to ground. I have spoken to other folks with Online UPS and this very problem and they say the exact same thing. Now I am not sure how the ground connection could be faulty in some way, and simultaneously measure clean at the panel (verified with two electricians using a clamp meter). After reading several posts about this very issue and seeing first hand how ferrite cores, moving cables, and power conditioners etc affect it I have concluded that it is indeed an electrical noise issue in my home or from the power pole/utility. In the thread on r/buildapc some of the comments stated it is likely an issue with grounding. I am wondering if maybe an Isolation Transformer, or just lifting (floating) the ground would solve it. If there is anyone that is knowledgeable in these areas of either breaking groundloops, or at least finding them, or dealing with finding sources of EMI and finding out what frequencies I need to filter please let me know. I understand any skepticism about what I have posted here as it seems absurd to me as well but it is the truth and I would love to know what the cause is and how it can affect digital devices in these ways. Thanks
  6. I am hoping to get some advice here to track down a potential ground loop, or serious source of EMI/RFI (not sure if conducted or radiated). I figured there are some techie folks on here so maybe I can get some advice. I have a host of non destructive computer and peripherals related problems. The issue manifest as input lag (mouse, keyboard), degraded sound quality (muddied, and shallow sound), degraded wireless (throughout the house) and wired internet performance, screen artifacts (noise), and degraded display (hitching, tearing). I have confirmed that it is not hardware related: 4 different PC's (Windows 8.1, Windows 10, and 1 laptop (Windows 7) 3 Monitors Multiple Keyboards, Mice, Headphones, Speakers Multiple Modems, Routers, and all new cables (shielded and non- shielded Ethernet and Display port cables do help slightly I believe. Observations: Using different circuits and configurations (power strips, or conditioners) around the house which changes the input delays and performance. Moving cables away from each other helps even data cables are messing with each other. Placing a phone on PC makes the mouse sensitivity feel two times as fast. Placed ferrite cores and toroids onto data, and power cables changes mouse tracking, sound and display quality, and internet performance. Different power strips, Gold and Platinum rated PSUs, a Furman power conditioner, and a Tripp Lite double conversion UPS. UPS does something makes the input latency better, and the power conditioner helped for a few days. The power conditioner helped the most with the sound and display issues. Seems to be better at night but only slightly. When an appliance in the home is switched on the amount of data latency, input lag and display issues amplifies. Any setting in Windows or BIOS changes how the mouse preforms (power settings, and fans speeds do the most), however after some time it seems to degrade back to the same point. Wifi in the home continually cuts out and some weird stuff like if my modem and router are one the same power strip the Wifi will not work. Desktop PCs connected to Wifi even two feet away from router makes the input latency lower however there is full one second stutters in games, browsers and video streams. Used my PC at a friends house in another city and it works perfectly fine, night and day from my setup at home. I am actually shocked at how much deeper sound, colors and consistency of mouse tracking is compared to at my house. I have had the power company out twice, and had two electricians check my grounding, neutrals, and outlets. All come clean. I poked around with an AM radio and while there are some sources of noise around the house, nothing stands out. My laptop on battery works better at random times yet still has the same issues. Found several posts relating to the issue and it seems they all observe the same symptoms: https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/1055893-power-issues-can-cause-input-latency-issues/ https://forums.blurbusters.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=3641 https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapc/comments/bafhfe/update_after_years_of_mouse_input_lag_and_other/ http://www.jonnyguru.com/forums/showthread.php?16546-Major-input-lag-caused-by-Power-issues-in-House I have tried a few power conditioners (Furman) that work pretty good for a day or two then its back to the same old degraded quality. I believe this is similar to what I have seen with ferrite and toroid cores in that they seem to saturate and once they do the filtering qualities are pretty much gone. Now this is where it gets interesting. I have a Tripp Lite double conversion UPS which helps a bit with the consistency of inputs and the display quality but ultimately the issue is still entirely there. This does not make much sense if the problem truly stems from the power company but one thing I have noticed is if I pull that plug for my UPS, then for the few minutes I run truly off of battery, everything is perfect. Then when I plug the unit back in the lag comes back fully within a minute- almost like it builds up resistance or something. I believe what is happening here is by unplugging the unit (UPS) I am effectively floating the ground which seems to be the source of the issues here. In a double conversion unit like mine the only thing that is not filtered is that passed through connection to ground. I have spoken to other folks with Online UPS and this very problem and they say the exact same thing. Now I am not sure how the ground connection could be faulty in some way, and simultaneously measure clean at the panel (verified with two electricians using a clamp meter). After reading several posts about this very issue and seeing first hand how ferrite cores, moving cables, and power conditioners etc affect it I have concluded that it is indeed an electrical noise issue in my home or from the power pole/utility. In the thread on r/buildapc some of the comments stated it is likely an issue with grounding. I am wondering if maybe an Isolation Transformer, or just lifting (floating) the ground would solve it. If there is anyone that is knowledgeable in these areas of either breaking groundloops, or at least finding them, or dealing with finding sources of EMI and finding out what frequencies I need to filter please let me know. I understand any skepticism about what I have posted here as it seems absurd to me as well but it is the truth and I would love to know what the cause is and how it can affect digital devices in these ways. Thanks
  7. I literally just made this account to ask this question before I trash this cord. Since out of the blue today my original Xbox One console has been shutting off and having trouble turning on. Ive deduced it to be a problem within either the power cord or power supply. When I plug in the cord from the supply to the console, it shuts off, however the power supply itself seems to have no issues, since when plugged into any outlet it turns bright orange as it should. Im asking if its maybe an issue within the power supply itself, I have tools to open it and engineering friends who can help, or whether if its a problem with the cord, which can easily be replaced. Or both, which both can be replaced
  8. Is it normal for a ups like the APC 1500VA UPS to put voltage into the ground. I was told they tested the devices and found that every ups in the building was putting approx 15v 1 amp into the ground. Again I was told this second hand and am a bit confused myself if this is how the ups are supposed to function. Any clarification would be nice.
  9. This is an elaborated topic, generically. The purpose is to gather knowledgen extensively. Who make the main components or the electrical parts on the PCB of GPUs (asking from Firepro/Quadro to HD 5450/Geforce210)? Like the Capacitors, IC, V-RAM, Controllers, RAMDAC, Bus e.t.c. Quality control is another concern too. Like Nvidia doesn't care 1000 or 900 like their high end Quadro series. Asking this because I recently judged two self-contradictory things(completely my opinion). Firstly, Strix of ASUS uses high quality stuffs while others like Sapphire or Zotac in GTX 950 probably didn't put parts that up to mark things which can resist anti forces up to some points. Though I am not sure about it at all. I have seen people are selling more Strix cards than Zotac, EVGA or MSI but somehow I realised that in this year ASUS dealt with it's RX 460 with good things but lagged in performance even to a year old 950. This is a sure thing to abhor. On the other hand, 950 really attracts many wallets because of P2P (price to performance). Vexing bafflement! I am not biased with either companies. Thinking about spending father's money in a more efficient way. The partners' cards can't be the best because nobody will buy for a long time then. 'Malfunctioning? Let's change.' Sorry for my poor wits. I want to know these things by our upcoming conversations.. (If my queries are not clear enough, please ask me)
  10. Where is the best place to learn mechanical and electrical engineering online for free . I'm only in high school but I would like to familiarise myself with basic and advanced concepts.
  11. Hi LTT Im looking for some advice on an upcomming build of mine. I want to build a desktop computer into a black plastic instrument case. The case im planing has room for a 22" monitor up top and enough room in the bottom to house an ATX psu, an mATX mobo and (with a riser) an ITX gtx 960 (which i already have). I have 2 main questions but feel free to poke holes in my plan otherwise, I'd much prefer this to fail on a forum before it fails irl and costs me a whole bunch of money 1. Will an ATX psu be electrically safe in a black plastic case? I plan of ventilating the space well and im not going to do any soldering on mains wires but ive got this notion that the motherboard and psu need to be grounded on metal? 2. I would love a mechanical hdd, I spend alot of time away from home for work and having my movie collection on tap (as well as my steam library) would make motels alot more enjoyable. While im using the pc it will be stationary but i will be driving it and carrying it around, just like a suitcase. Will a standard 3.5" hdd survive bumps and knocks (when off) that a suitcase would encounter? I'll just head off the alternatives to this at the pass. A ps vita / nintendo ds is under powered and a good laptop with a decent gpu is way too expensive at least (1600 AUD). I've costed this plan out to about 600 AUD by re using some stuff i already have. Im not worried about battery because I will always have a powerpoint when I want to game and i know it will be a brick but I only ever drive to my live-aways. Thanks peeps, any input would be appreciated
  12. Ok, first thing first. This is for pure fun. I am not planning to carry a 11KG UPS to school everyday(but maybe on a camping trip?).I become curious right after I got it since it is very heavy and can power a computer for a reasonable amount of time. The UPS I got is a Cyberpower CP1500PFCLCD. It is rated as 1500VA/900W(which mean nothing to me) on the website. So my question as I already mentioned, how many time it can charge a iPhone? How much capacity of the battery have? If it can only charge iPhone battery for a very limited amount of time, why? It is significantly larger and heavier than the power bank I have. Again, this whole thing is just for fun and I am using iPhone here just as a example. Thanks a ton!
  13. Hey guys. I am a graduate student and I am studying electrical engineering in VLSI design. A lot of my school work is focused around projects based on simulations on Cadence, Gem5 (simulator of virtual processors), report writing, web browsing and lots of coding. I am looking for laptop that could handle these tasks smoothly and have good battery life. My budget is 800 bucks. What kind of laptops should I look into? dual core / quad core, 4 Gb/ 8 Gb, SSD or HDD. I will be using both Windows 10 and ubuntu in the same laptop. Thanks in advance. Kartik
  14. Motherboard LEDs Stated on the motherboard's specs, there are two RGB headers both supporting 12v by 3A, and one iaRGB header supporting 5v by 3a. It states for all three headers that it supports up to two meters. I don't feel like burning up my board lol, so I'm looking for input on my execution. I'm not sure if the LEDs listed above are 100% the exact same, but they should be in the ball park of what I have now, the listing from my order history was deleted. So what I did to get my numbers was start with the mobo - 12V(3A) = 36W Then the strip - 60W / 300LEDs = 0.2W 0.2W / 12V = 0.016667Aroughly 0.02A Then checked how many LEDs fit in that spec - 0.2W ( X ) = 36W | X=180 LEDs 0.016667A ( X ) = 3A | X=179.9964 LEDs ~or 0.02A ( X ) = 3A | X=150 LEDs Then the density of the LEDs - 300LEDs / 5Meters = ~60LEDs So according to the numbers I have roughly 12 watts per meter at full bright, and 60 LEDs in that meter, suggesting a total of 120 LEDs per header. So, am I to understand that the board can only push 12v up to 2m max? What If I have 80 LEDs on one side of the case and and the rest on the other, and ran an extension there to continue the stream. Would that count towards my 2m? I pretty much get that this is either a voltage drop scenario or perhaps related to load, but I'm not sure if that even matters because it would seem to me that the resistance of the wire is irrelevant at such small distances, especially at 12v to be a voltage drop issue, and the LEDs wouldn't necessarily draw more power the further away they were would they? I just want to make sure for the safety of the mobo, that the traces won't get stressed. I was thinking of powering the LEDs directly from the PSU, but isn't the voltage throughput what directly controls its overall brightness by passing through the R,G,B common rails? If there is a way to get RGB control form the motherboard, but power the strips separately, that'd be cool! And safe! :D I totally was going to do that for the iaRGB strip, but idk if the 80 led hard cap is due to software limitation or not... Thanks for reading my run on sentence, any help or input is highly appreciated!
  15. When I touch my pc and my rooms radiator (big metal heater thing that goes through the whole house) at the same time, I feel a current flowing (tickling) through my fingers. Now I know that's because my wall outlet isn't grounded, making my touch the ground "wire". Should I ground my pc? Are there benefits? Are there issues? Would it help (overclocking) stability?
  16. Hello LTT community. I have Turtle Beach headphones and whenever I plug them in my desktop PC, I hear a lot of distortion and crackling noises even when I'm just idling on the desktop. I looked up ways to get rid of it, and a video I watched said DACs are great at removing Electrical Interference(the distortion/crackling noise). So do DACs remove this electrical interference? If so, can you recommend good DACs that are not too expensive? Average cost I saw for a DAC was ~$70 :mellow:
  17. So just now my graphics card (At least I think its my graphics card) started making a squealing noise. The noise sounds like an electrical-ish squeal.... or something like that? It's definitely not the fan, just checked that (first time i've ever stopped any fan with my finger and i feel terrible about it!) When I load a game or a video up, the squeal changes pitch very uniformly... like ____----""""---""____ (higher is higher note haha) I'm not too worried because my GTX 970 is on delivery so that should be here in the next few days What the hell could it be?
  18. I'm finishing up my Junior (grade 11) year in high school, so college is one year away. I've been thinking about majors, and I'm not sure what some of them pertain to. I've been a little confused about Computer Software Engineering, Computer Hardware Engineering, and Electrical Engineering. My friend's father is a Computer Software Engineer and he owns a company that creates statistical simulations of engines for motor companies, so I think I have an idea of what that is like. But Computer Hardware Engineering and Electrical Engineering is where I get really mixed up. I sort of want to have an idea of what I'm getting in to. Does anyone have any experience with these fields?
  19. I have a question here that probably lead to even more question. So,my area recently has a alot of thunderstorms/lighting occuring,and it shocked my laptop adapter(connects to a power strip),causing my laptop to turn off.Luckily my laptop is in good condition after sending it for a check at a PC store.. In the end,I changed a new adapter/charger for it and it works normally like before. Then my question is,should I change my power strip that is about 3 years old, and will this also happen(toasted motherboard after thunderstorms)on a Desktop PC build. And one more thing,how can I prevent this to happen again without buying anything, couz Im from a budget family(sry rip English). Thats all.
  20. So... I am currently in Year 11 of Secondary School and I am building a skateboard that generates electricity when it is used that can then be used to provided electrical assistance for my project. Any suggestions on how do wire this us and what components I will need? Cheers UwU
  21. Well I finally got around to shunt-modding these Titan Xp cards, installing their waterblocks and getting my main rig going again today... but ran into a rather odd snag. I'm using Bitspower blocks for the 1080 Ti / Titan Xp, and these came with a short LED strip pre-installed in the plexi (which is nice since I had to buy them separately for the Titan V blocks), but one of them seems to have an electrical problem. I noticed that none of the RGB-header-powered lights were on when I booted up and started disconnecting 1 at a time to see if something was wrong. Sure enough, as soon as I unplug the 1st card's LED plug, everything else turned on. Plugged it back in and poof, all dead again. Unplugged, they all come on. I noticed that when the connectors are about to touch, there's a visible electric arc on the +12v as it kills the rest of the components. Next, I tried unplugging the other strip and using that connector for the 'faulty' card, but the issue was the same. Is there any easy way to sort this out or do I just need to take the card out, block apart, and somehow replace the strip? *EDIT* Didn't realize we have a separate "Troubleshooting" section under Workbench. Mods can you please move this?
  22. Hey guys, need help on buying a charger for my laptop. The battery is an 11.1V 4400mAh 48.84Wh battery. My old charger outputs at 19V 4.74A 90W. Heard that I should buy the same voltage to have a safe charging. What voltage is that? Should I buy a charger that outputs at around 11.1V or higher? Is using a higher V bad? Is using a charger higher than 90W bad? Im very not knowledgeable about this. Thank you
  23. So, I have this corsair CX430m, that I thought was dead/dying, and I bought a new PSU. Turns out that it was the power strip I had the computer attached to, not the PSU (I think, and hope). I'd like to be sure of that of course, so how can I test the PSU? I did some searching online and got some conflicting results so I figured I'd ask here and see what people have to say, before really digging myself. Thanks in advance for any help.
  24. I would appreciate some help with finding some siemens instabus switches, or if somethingnexists to attach it to a standard switch?
  25. So, I’m setting up a new home network for my parents and at first I was just gonna use Google WiFi (as much as it creeped me out) and I was gonna use power line Ethernet to get Ethernet to a couple of desktops. Well, since then two things have to come to the forefront. Firstly, they have a home security system that I was told ran over WiFi but what I later realized is that is has its own network and it’s causing interference issues with the rest of the WiFi in the House. So anything Mesh is out of the question. Secondly, I did some testing and the power inside their home is just way too old to be reliable for Powerline Ethernet. So...... I found the Ubiquiti networking gear an extremely interesting package. Specifically their Unifi gear. I need this network to have full coverage of 3 separate areas of the house so 3 access points are necessary and one of them has to have an Ethernet passthrough for a desktop in the back bedroom. Most like the AC Pro. I slowly realized that the best option would be to go full Unifi with the switch, router, and access points. But now, I’m worried about powering it. I’m pretty sure it should be fine. But I’m a little worried. I’m not great with this kind of stuff but I’m trying to get better. So far the plan is to use all this gear: 24 port Unifi Switch (non-PoE) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZBLO0U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_9?smid=A3SQ9YFE6CSCS0&psc=1 USG - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LV8YZLK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?smid=AANSFONOCR8T3&psc=1 4* 48V .5A PoE injectors - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HXT8MNI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A3LGJ9ZB5RSN9T&psc=1 And this case that has some fans in it - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FKOW4LS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3FG64J8IOS59V&psc=1 So that’s all the main stuff pulling power. Those 4 injectors will be going into 3 access points and a Unifi Cloud Key. I also need a power strip/surge protector for all this. I was thinking about this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00077INZU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 I’m not sure if the 20A would be better. P.S. I want to know all the thought and calculations behind your answer so I can learn. Thank you!!!!
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