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Found 370 results

  1. PC Designing is hard to do occasionally, The starting Idea First you want to think up the ideas of the type of case you want to make, we need to know this to know the type of material we choose to use. Do you want to make a Case that acts as a leg or carrier for your desk? Alright then we'd have to use something, I'd recommend using Aluminum Square profiles for this or LDF. This due to the strength of the construction you can make - Be careful with using Acrylic panes on this design however. I myself wanted to make a big case that would envision what i wanted, i wanted a computer case with an extreme amount of distance between the motherboard tray - 2.5 millimeters, this because i want to have the ability to use another set of profiles to make a custom HDD and SSD Mount, now will this frame look great? Yes and no. Under here you will see the Google Sketchup file i made to show the design i made. - Know i am buying 1 meter long Corner Profiles of aluminum, and for the middle frame i am using a T profile of also aluminum to be able to make a build in tray for a PSU cover. But it also allows you to use Rivets to hold it together so if something is placed wrong you can drill them out and replace it correctly, or with another piece that would be more useful in it's place. The Materials Now we come to what i would call the starting of a fun time. We start to look back at what we wanted, how much space we wanted, and what for and what the case would be used as. Does it need to carry a lot of weight? Use triangles in the design, or use more internal frames. This will provide stability and allow it to carry more weight. Now I'd suggest using only aluminum profiles to make your case frame due to the ease of working with it. An angle grinder for cutting in size, and a drill for making rivet holes, and rivets and the rivet puller to put it together. On top of this frame we can put whatever we want, you want to make a big, bulky computer with wheels under it that looks cool? Go ahead and use LDF or Chipboard due to their strengths these are okay to use, and you can use a bigger rivet inside those too, or even screws on the inside of the case into the wood. But I'd advise again using aluminum, now most hardware stores in America sell Aluminum in sheets. but outside of America you have a higher chance of ordering them in size from one of them online - Which is what i am doing, this also allows you to get more precise cuts then if you do it yourself. Now for my case i will need 4 pieces of Aluminum that are 670mm long and 320mm wide due to the size of the case i am making, but if you want it to overlap the case make it 322mm due to being able to use another sheet of aluminum on the back, and a sheet of Acrylic on the other side. If you have a hole drill then you can easily use it to cut aluminum in most cases, otherwise you can find cheap 120mm drills on Wish or AliExpress for about €13,- so you can buy two and be sure to be able to put in holes for your fans in the aluminum sheets, now if you look at the front of my case, there is a big part of the case that is not divided, this is due to the fact i plan on putting a 360mm and a 240mm radiator in there, this is due to the fact i made the front part of the case [ divided by the T profiles in the middle ] to become a place for Reservoirs with nice looking designs one reservoir for any part of the pc you want to cool so you can pick them to have a different color. If not you can make a custom Water carrier block in it's size and put it in there for a nice design. Things to consider: How many fans do you want? Do you want to put radiators and fans in the bottom next to the PSU? Do you want to make a designed RGB plate somewhere? Do you want to run RGB Strips? - Another point for using the Aluminum profiles, a lot come in the correct size for putting in RGB strips on the inside of them to be hidden. Where are you going to connect your Acrylic window or glass window? How big of a Motherboard are you using? Do you need more cable management space? The Construction Process Now here comes everything into play we wanted to use before, and what we even designed this to be - realize that you will have less space inside then you think due to the fact you are putting profiles onto profiles! even fi they are normally around 0.5mm or 1mm think or even if you are unlucky 1.5mm thick, why is this unlucky? Rivets are nice to use but they can become expensive if you have to buy longer ones because the ones you bought were too short for the layers. So now you got your parts and you are putting together your profile - be sure to use your Fans to make the Fan spaces so you are sure you use the right size, or the radiators and fans to make sure you use the correct height and width of the case and its profile. After doing this you are ready to put your first rivets in, i would heavily instruct you to first make the Square frames on the outside and then the in between sizes just so you know that they won't be messed up due to the other things you do on the inside as you would have done the most important parts already. After doing that you can work on the Outside inbetweeners, the GPU carrier & PSU shroud part, This we do now becuse this would mainly be made from T frames and connects to the middle frame for the motherboard tray and the Mid case splitter for design. It also allows us to rethink anything now and then we can order the parts of the case outside. What are we going to use for the outside? That fully depends again on what you made it for. Are you making a wooden exterior? Good on you, it is both harder and easier to do. Due to the wood being normally thicker and heavier it will be able to be connected to a desk or couch easier or allow you to put actual wheels under it, but it makes it harder due to the heaviness of it and because it is WAY less forgiving with leaving edges that can make it look ugly, or the wood grain coming through can break it - take it from someone who made one entirely out of MDF before. Are you making it out of Aluminum? It is hard to find tools that are cheap to work with it - luckily you can use a lot of wood tools on it even though they break a lot faster. It can leave sharp edges, but with a dremel you can easily fix it. And with an angle grinder or dremel you can put in very easily some VGA slots and the IO plate hole that is in the correct size. Now what could be easier to work with, but harder to keep whole? Acrylic Plates, now a lot of you probably know how hard it is to work with it without making it bubble, or having weird edges. But it is easier to cut, all you need is an acrylic knife/scorer and if you take care you can make perfect edges and holes, even in a circle if you attache it to a Geometry compass - for drawing. That way you can have a perfect circle every single time if you know how to work with one. And one could argue if you get a piece big enough, you can make the entire outside of the case in 3 or 4 pieces of acrylic plate. I myself for one Would love to see Linus and Alex make a case like this or their own Dream case!
  2. Budget (including currency): 10,000 mxn more or less Country: Mexico Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Design Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): First time computer buyer/builder Hello everyone I'm looking to build a pc, mainly I will use it for design purposes (photoshop, light gaming, drawing, light video editing etc) I have no idea what to look for or where to focus my budget the most on. Of course, the less I spend the better. Also, I'm not looking for the highest performance but certainly I would like a good bang for buck kind of thing. If I could include the monitor and peripherals (mouse and keyboard) that would be ideal but not mandatory for now. Thanks in advance!
  3. Yo! I'm a graphic designer who's interested in getting some new monitors. I've been planning on having a x3 monitor setup including 2 good side monitors and 1 superior in the middle. Since my setup is located in the corner of my room i'm looking for something that can be as close to the wall as possible. I'm currently running a SC 980ti. My work includes Frontend Design & Development, Graphic Design, Photo & Video editing and gaming when im not doing the rest My budget is around 1000-1.500 USD Please let me know your recommendations and thanks a lot in advance!
  4. So i'm currently in the process of upgrading my old i7-4790 CPU and i've been having an back and forth with one of my friends on what i should upgrade to. To be quite honest i don't know much about CPU performance so im curious to hear what you all know. I've been hearing a lot good about AMD recently so i'm really unsure on what i should upgrade to. My upgrade budget is around $1k including motherboard & ram. I mainly use my current system for Graphic Design, Photo & Video Editing, Playing Video Games, 3D modelling & Rendering. I really hope you guys will enlighten me on what i should look for thanks a lot in advance!
  5. Hey guys, so in the last 20 days, I got into my head to try and come up with a new custom case design. Not only to test my skills in SketchUp, as I haven't used it for years, but also to test and learn a bit more about pc case design. The idea came to me when I saw the Fractal Design Era case. and... I loved the case, honestly. It was simple, beautiful and sleek. No rgb, no glass or acrylic or any of those. It isn't to say that I dislike them, but I can overlook them pretty easily. But two things bothered me with it. Cable management was the first, the second was the airflow. So far, this is the base I've developed. A bit stuck in terms of outside design now but, what do you think? (Size is 162mm x 318mm x 359mm (WxDxH))
  6. Would anybody be interested in a metal (or plastic?) bracket that allows AM4 coolers with stock retention arms to be put on LGA 1511 CPUs? Like you could put a Wraith Prism on an Intel CPU. I want to start creating that socket converter, but only if there's enough public interest in it. Else I'll be wasting time and money.
  7. Budget (including currency): INR 115,000, Including keyboard and monitor. (no mouse, i have a G502 hero) Country: India Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Mainly AutoCAD, Rhino, Solidworks, Keyshot, Blender, Houdini, Cinema4D, and playing games. Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): I am hooked onto the LG 27UL500-W. I am ready to take recommendations for a monitor for this price-point. I want to be able to play games at 60FPS without stuttering. I dont mind playing at 1080 or 1440p at mid graphics. I will be buying everything from Amazon India. These are the parts. I don't want to go Ryzen 3000 because compatibility issues with B450, and I live in a very remote location. Nearest city is 90kms away from here, and given the human malware situation nothing can be done anyway. CPU- Ryzen 7 2700 https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B07B41717Z/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=AJRK4JF48YXA&psc=1 Motherboard - ASRock B450 Steel Legend https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B07MV7LR1B/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A1URIEFJ9EJHTB&psc=1 RAM - Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB 3000Mhz https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B07B4GNMS9/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A14CZOWI0VEHLG&psc=1 Cabinet - CoolerMaster MasterBOx K501L https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B00CY8RTHS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=AJRK4JF48YXA&psc=1 Graphics Card - Zotac 2060 Super AMP! https://www.amazon.in/dp/B07TWGRW5H/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_e0oWEb1400GG0 Keyboard - Razer Cyanosa Lite https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B07Z5M6D5Z/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=A14CZOWI0VEHLG&psc=1 Monitor - LG UltraFine 4K 27UL500-W https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B07PGL2WVS/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A14CZOWI0VEHLG&psc=1 Storage - I need help with this. I have a 240GB Sandisk SSD Plus from back in 2014/2015 that i had been using in my old laptop. I will keep that. Should I get a 500GB M.2 SSD maybe something like Corsair P1 or WD Blue(Green/Black? I dont understand the difference), or get a 1TB HDD and save some money. Power Supply - What should I go with? Is Antec NeoEco 650M 80 Plus Bronze good enough for this? Antec one is cheap too. CPU Cooler - Will the AMD cooler be good enough? I dont plan on overclocking this computer at all. The case comes with 2 fans anyway. Is there a decent cabinet that you could suggest? I dont want RGB, and I dont care for TG, Its going to be sitting on the floor or somewhere not to be seen much. Now if i go without a cooler i can save some money and get an M.2 SSD intead of a harddrive. or best case both. I would also like the possibility of having WiFi/Bluetooth on the computer. How should I optimize it. I am going over budget with this build anyway. So i dont really want to stretch it even further. This is going to be the first time building a PC for me. I have only been getting Laptops for the last 15-16 years that I have had a computer. Edit: Added Wifi/Bluetooth queries.
  8. Hi All, I'm currently putting together my first PC build and want some expert input on the monitor i should go with. I need a monitor that is best for my graphic design and photography/video work, but i'd also like to enjoy gaming on it as well. I play both FPS and RPG games currently and would like to get great performance for these sorts of games. I'd prefer a monitor size of ` 30"+. Thank you!
  9. Hi guys, I’ve been planning to build my second computer for a couple months now and was trying to find tutorials on how to model a PC build using Blender, SolidWorks, or any other software, as I’m planning on building a dark purple-pink themed “outer space” theme build (similar to Nebula, Jayztwocents’ personal build). I've got a parts list in mind but was hoping I could create a mock-up before actually buying any parts to see how things turned out, and make any necessary modifications. If anyone knows where I can find some videos, forums, or other information, or even have parts suggestions to match my theme that would we awesome. Thanks
  10. This is something that the Fractal fanboys will roast me for it, but I need to say this. So in my quest to find the balance between good temps and low noise in my Fractal Design R6 case, I realized that I never did one test to actually determine the correct settings. So last week I decided to set the case fans at 100% all the time to see just what difference that would make on the temps for the CPU, VRM and GPU. Because before that what I did was set the fans to run all the time at the lowest rpm that they would run at and through the bios set a fan curve so they can ramp up when temps get too high. I was trying to find the balance between noise and temps. That's why I even bought this case because I wanted silence. I even bought an a completely unnecessary overpowered power supply just to make sure I have silence so the fan won't turn on at idle. Anyway the fans that come with the case are the Dyncamics X2-GP14. So I decided to set the fans at 100% because I realized I never tested what would the best temps be if the fans of the case run at 100%. So I did and what I discovered blow me away pun intended. It made basically no difference at all. I saw a 2 degree difference, that's it. So I opened the panel and decided to put my hand behind the fan to see how much air they push. I felt nothing. They are completely pointless. The fans were running at 1000rpm and they might've been turned off and it would've been the same. It would've been better if I took them off and stuck my head in the front of the case and blow that would actually lower the temps. Not even blowing is required, just a breathing. Even the act of breathing would push more air than those fans. I know very well Fractal fans are going to attack me, I don't care so far I've had too many issues with my purchase and it pissed me off. I was a fan of this company, but not anymore. The more time I spent with my R6, the more I find things about it that are crap. I've spent 170$ with tax on it and regret every single dollar.
  11. Before the year of 2017, Samsung had been demonstrating to consumers what could be an edge-to-edge display, and delivering so to a given extent to those who chose their devices. Then, in 2017 Apple finally introduced the iPhone X, which brought an utter change from the iconic, traditional iPhone design that had only faced small tweaks throughout the years dating from its original launch. Then in the past years... bezel-less phones have had a flood into the market, and present wherever you may look. When Apple introduced the iPhone X, an incredibly large number of people complained about the so popular notch, and to this day vigorously wish that it was not present... Such response makes me wonder about something... once Apple ceases to make use of the notch, as underneath the display camera technologies are being developed, and evolving as You read... what sort of era in the smartphone design are we going to be living in, I wonder. If you position the new iPhones side by side with other bezel-less phones... due to its notch, you are able to immediately tell that you are looking at an iPhone and not some other random smartphone... all because of the so despised notch... Once Apple finally manages to remove it, based on the past perspective we can assume that the pattern will repeat itself; other phone manufacturers will have already done so entirely. And then, everyone will be carrying around a squared - or rounded, smartphone that is only distinguishable if you look at the back of the device... which is mostly covered by the user's hands... I believe that Apple perpetuated the iconic-design of the iPhone, and only chose to stop it because of the need to do so by the pressure being imposed against others with their alluring concept of a bezel-less device, rather than actually wishing to do so. I am not sure how do You feel about this upcoming reality, but I feel highly uncomfortable. The traditional, iconic-design is, to my eyes, the most elegant, representative, and beautiful iPhone design that there is. It is a very unpopular opinion, however it is a fact that... that design tells us a story, while the ''bezel-less'' only tells us a need to compete, and catch up with a personality-less smartphone era.
  12. Hey guys does anyone know how to change back the design of the Mail Icon to the old monotone one? The new one does not fit in the rest of the UI. Thanks in advance!
  13. So after careful consideration and keeping up with my budget, I want some final feedback on my build below And if you can comment or suggest other HW instead of the current chosen please feel free, This is what this topic for to help me finalize my order: Regarding budget and location please note that the parts below are inside my current budget but it can increase for another 100-200$ if some parts needs changing. Location: Israel - parts are not that cheap and there is a wide range of prices and parts here Budget: around 1800$ (converting from local currency) CPU - AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6Ghz AM4 stock cooling Board - Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI) AM4 GPU - EVGA RTX 2060 SUPER XC GAMING 8GB GDDR6 HDMI 3xDP USB Type-C SSD - Corsair Force MP600 PCIe NVMe M.2 2280 1TB SSD M.2 2280 RAM - Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x16GB DDR4 3600MHz CL18 PSU - GIGABYTE PSU AORUS 850W PFC GOLD 80+ MODULAR P850W OR GIGABYTE PSU AORUS 750W PFC GOLD 80+ MODULAR P750W * CASE - COOLER MASTER MASTERBOX TD500 BLACK - ** *PSU advise - please advise if i do need the 850W or 750W is good for this build **Case advise - do you have any other recommendation for this budget case, is this case good in terms of airflow and noise? Regarding Monitor - few options here: Gigabyte AORUS Gaming Monitor 27" IPS QHD 144Hz 1ms RGB G-SYNC Compatible 27 Asus ROG Swift PG279QE Gaming IPS 2K Asus VG27BQ 27 TUF Which one is better? they all around same budget So what do you all think? is this a good light gaming (RDD/Witcher 3/ CS) 1080P > 2K and for content creation/graphic design Please consider that the budget is flexible for 100-200$ more
  14. Hi, Trying to build a new pc for myself for gaming to replace a old laptop I used for college and it has started to go out of date. I will also using it for Adobe software like Photoshop, Illustrator and Lightroom but mostly the focus will be gaming. The games I will be playing on it are CS:GO, Final Fantasy XXVI, Halo Reach, Borderlands 3, Call of Duty Modern Warfare and etc. I am trying to lower the price as much as I can to make it affordable I was wondering if I can get any advice in lowering the price and/or any way ways to improve the system. Specs and price: CPU: Ryzen 7 2700 (£144.00) Motherboard: Msi B450 (£89.99) GPU: MSI Geforce 2070 Super 8GB (£454.50) SSD: Samsung 500gb (£80.99) - Plan to expand down the line RAM: Corsair 8GBx2 Vengeance (£89.99) PSU: Corsair cx750w (£76.49) Case: Nzxt h510 (£65.99) Monitor: MSI Optix 144hz (£161.99) - With this if you know of any cheaper options for 144hz let me know Also is it advised I use another CPU cooler rather than the one which comes in the box? (I don't plan on overclocking). Thanks for reading, appreciate your opinions!
  15. Hey there! I'm looking for advice from people who know much more than I do regarding monitors and tech! I'm a video game sound effect designer and I need a few very specific things out of my mac / pc setup. Here's what I already have: - A PC I will be using for sound effect design (Geforce 970) - A 2016 Macbook Pro I will be using for mac-specific audio programs, and game platform testing - Keyboard and mouse Here's what I would love to be able to do: - Use one large decent resolution monitor for both my PC (display port) and macbook pro (HDMI) and toggle between those inputs while using the same mouse and keyboard - Have enough monitor space to comfortably view my digital audio workstation and the video / game window I will be designing in sync with - Run a 144 hz monitor for occasional gaming on the PC - Maintain low latency between the monitor and the computers, as listening to the timing of SFX with video playback is a priority Budget - 300-500 USD What would he ideal setup here be? I don't know much about what adapters / cables might allow this. Is it realistic to hope for all of this? I'd love to make it as easy as possible to smooth my workflow out and switch inputs quickly / not have to think too much about it as it would make my work day a lot easier! Thanks so much
  16. Hello, I am a long time watcher of LTT and finally decided to join the forums because I have a question I can not find a definitive answer to. We are ready to replace our CAD laptop workstations where I work, currently they are working on Dell Precision M6800 with i7-4710MQ CPU's, 8GB Ram, 250 Samsung SSD's and Quadro K3100M 4GB video cards. I am looking at two options to replace these computers, the first option is the Lenovo ThingPad P73 with an i7-9750H CPU, 16GB Ram, 512 NVMe SSd's and a Quadro P620 4GB video card or option 2 would be a Lenovo X1 Extreme Gen 2 with the same CPU, RAM and HDD but with a GTX 1650 Max-Q 4GB video card instead. My questions is what really is the performance difference between the Quadro and GTX? My engineers user SolidWorks 2019, AutoCAD 219 and KeyShot for design software. Could I get them the lighter X1 Extreme and still retain the performance of the P73?
  17. A laptop that is not thin, but has enough room for cooling performance and a big battery. The housing can be produced cheaply along with good feeling keyboard and mouse pad. The cosmetics dont matter as long or feels good. I want the laptop designers to come up with a concept design and prototypes.
  18. Dear All, I am contacting you all in hopes of some support in building a budget setup for my little brother. My little brother is an armature mid-career designer who self taught himself: Cinema 4D Adobe Illustrator / Photoshop Houdini Fx Adobe Aftereffects Autodesk Maya / 3Ds Max basic macroing... etc,,, He wants a PC setup that will allow him to further develop his skills and build his career in graphics designing and marketing... I request that you please send me of a configuration that will support above programs and not be too expensive. He wants performance... I would appreciate if the products you suggest are easily available in Saudi Arabia. I also want the PC to be easily serviceable or if needed upgradable.. If you guys can advise me on the build I would be very grateful. Hope you guys can support and guide here... Look forward to your kind response.
  19. So I have a computer with two graphics cards and realized an issue with heat in theory. Graphics cards fans pull air up and to the side. This leads to heat build up on the back of the card, especially if you have a second card above it. Why do they not add a few holes through the pcb and have some air flow through and pull heat out in the direction dictated by physics as it would be cheaper energy wise?
  20. Hey folks! Been a while since I've needed some guidance on tech, so I came to the best of the best (that's y'all). I'm in the preliminary stages of building a home server and I want to dig ideas for an aesthetic. I'd like a wide variety of different designs, so go ahead and flood this post with anything and everything. Mini ITX or Micro ATX will "probably" be the board of choice, but that's up in the air. Could be 1U or bigger ... no dimensions are off-limits. Let's see what y'all got! Thank you in advance to everyone who contributes. You're all breathtaking. ~ J
  21. I have a few questions if anyone is willing to answer. i need a PC or a Workstation maybe, that can be used by four separate users using their own peripherals, on four monitors mostly it will be used for a kitchen designing software currently, i3 and gtx 1050 do the job, with some minor problems can you suggest what is needed for this, in general, and some option for on-site backup, preferably to a some lan attached server software used does in fact support virtualization so harware part is where i'n not as experienced, at least with pro gear In normal PC terms i'm an advanced user, no problems there, even some networking is not a problem thanks people
  22. Hi. My my dad is a tattooist and owns his own shop. He asked me if I could build him a pc so he could draw his design on a computer using a tablet and some software. I honestly don't know where to start and how powerful the pc needs to be, what software he needs and the best tablet to use. He has a budget between £2000 and £3000 for everything. If anyone could help me choose all the peripherals, components and software needed that would be great! Just to clarify:- Budget: Max £3000 Needs A whole PC Moniter Tablet? (The part you use to draw on) Peripharals Software Many Thanks Trent P.S. It will also be used to store all his pictures and tattoo flash and well as being used everyday as a normal PC.
  23. The Compositional: An art and design podcast about movies, graphics, software, and everything pretty. Hosted by Josh Messmer & Isaiah Walker. https://itunes.apple.com/ca/podcast/the-compositional/id1142372836?mt=2 http://www.thecompositional.com/
  24. Hi all, I'm in the market for a new car number plate in the United Kingdom. It kinda sucks because I don't have a middle name so i cannot use the last three digits as my initials which is annoying, also my first name is very popular so there are very few plates that resemble that, (the ones that do are like £15,000). My second name is also quite hard to visualise in just three letters but ive decided to go with 'NKL'. Now, i just need to decide what the first part of the plate is going to be, it needs no reference to me but i just want it to look quite cool. So far i've considered; OOIO NKL (OO10 NKL) £499 XIII NKL (X111 NKL) £499 I was just wondering if anyone else knew of any other ways of making the start of the plate look cool, i also dont mind if it is prefix or current style etc... I don't really want to spend much more than £500. Thanks for your help.
  25. So I have a 7700K, and know how much hotter it runs than the 6600K, but I didn't think that it'd be consistently reaching 80 degrees no matter how demanding the game is. All the fans in my case are PWM except for bottom one, which is to block the air upwards so the intake has straighter path to the exhaust. I should also note that my 1080 Ti has never reached temps above 65 degrees. I currently have the Cryorig H5 Universal, paired with Startech Metal Oxide paste. If a different paste would reduce the temps, let me know. Here's a picture of my current setup. I'm using a Fractal Design R5 (windowless)
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