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  • The ULTIMATE Watch_Dogs Optimisation
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  • Its not a blog just dont know how to post
  • I need Evolve Key please message me if you have one
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  • •[]•-PCMC ℂaℒℒ-ℊIrℒs Ѻ7Ѻ578IѺIѺ4 _=_ Ѻ976775824Ѻ Baner-PiMpri EscOrts Service-Hinjewadi, Dehu rOad Call Girls
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  • Anthony's Apartment
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  • Radeon HD 7770 GHz Edition w/ 300 W power supply?
  • I blogged
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  • shadakak's Blog
  • SSD and hard drive config?
  • Smokey Attempts: PC On The Wall (Drawer)
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  • Smokey's Chronicles
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  • Toms' rants about Esports and CS:GO
  • Brother PC Build
  • Swndlr's CSGO Skin Showroom
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  • jmad2011's Blog
  • Child's Play
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  • Upgrade build
  • Kendo's Blog
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  • Jerakl's Lego Place
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  • krishi's Blog
  • Where I post so I don't spam my statuses
  • Prastupok's Rants and Thoughts on life and computers.
  • My PC Upgrade Blog
  • zeldafan19's Blog
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  • SSL's Blog
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  • qwertywarrior's Blogimm not allowed on offtopic so im gonna post here
  • MustafaNL's Blog
  • Cool idea for new office/super fun time
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  • help me remember
  • FloRolf's incredible Blog
  • murz's blog
  • Nvidia GTX 660 ti wanted
  • Sarbartha's Blog
  • The Mechanical Experience
  • YeahLOLNo's Casual N00b Blog
  • Le boring life of Zach
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  • Slim 24 Pro India
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  • Power Supply
  • orangemonster's gaming rig
  • need help GPU not working!
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  • Speedierbug's Blog
  • Building My First Gaming PC
  • BIG BIG GIVEAWAY
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  • Big giveaway!
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  • my mice issues
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  • Ctrl's Blog
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  • Gaming PC need it at ~$650-700
  • David Jones
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  • A SwagStroopers Guide to Technology
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  • the ongoing build battle
  • Ellie's Hella Pooter Blog
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  • Procesador
  • Fx 6300 With gtx 960 or r9 280x is best
  • ThatGuyWhoTwirlsHisPen's Blog
  • Moving to the PC Master Race
  • Tf2 spycrab raffle
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  • Need Help With GPU Choice
  • What should I buy for video editing?
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  • Tech and Gadgets Archive
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  • CoolaxGaming's LTT life
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  • Casper The Cat
  • Where did you get this?
  • Asus 24" VG248QE or BenQ XL2411Z
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  • Bazinga's Pc?
  • My $1000 Gaming Pc Build
  • A new way to watercool a pc? And an hybrid solution!
  • please help me
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  • Neater123's Blog
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  • Project Zoe
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  • First Water Cooling Build
  • Cryless' Blog
  • realtek decide to block 7.1 software playback
  • My Bookmarks
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  • Used GTX 970 vs GTX 980, Which should I get?
  • Suemael's Blog
  • My first gaming PC
  • zodiac
  • Where to Buy Asus NX90?
  • Building a 600€ gaming PC
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  • Falx II: The AMD rig that could.
  • Falx IV: The Next Generation.
  • Phoenix: The bundle of suprises.
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  • Tommy-b-10's Server Build
  • Lowering the voltage
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  • Taylor borie's Blog
  • is this pc good
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  • Elllie's Pooter blog with some sparkles and custard
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  • Help, Want to make my first Gaming PC
  • What is the differance between a 128 bit and a 256 bit graphics card?
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  • Fx 9590 Cooling
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  • HELP ME PLEASE!!!!
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  • HELP!
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  • Need completely over kill pc NOWWWW!!!!
  • first gaming pc build
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  • R4 Build #2
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  • PC Spec help
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  • Please help me i'm building my first pc and I need good part's for 1,500
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  • Which headphones
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  • Should i buy this prebuild pc?
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  • Good price for selling a computer...
  • Tony Z's first pc
  • James's Blog
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  • Help me with my Stoomtrooper?
  • Need help with CPU bottleneck
  • My Dream PC
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  • A techy blog
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  • A random PC thoughts blog
  • Systool Overclocking Infectious
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  • Motherboard & Case upgrade!
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  • Computer turns on but no display output...
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  • Windows on a laptop?
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Found 916 results

  1. Hey! My (custom) PC keeps restarting on it's own after a few minutes of being on. The screen freezes with no sound, then it turns black and it boots again. Any help would be appreciated. Edit: temperatures are normal.
  2. Buy Lian Li desk PC: http://geni.us/SVR1QY Buy desk PC on Amazon: http://geni.us/snDK4V3 Can any desk PC case be worth $1,500???? Lian Li thinks so, and we aim to find out...
  3. So I'm in the early stages of designing a custom case for my next PC. Below are images of my current iteration, let me know what you think! Since I've never designed a case before, let me know if there are any ways that this could be improved as well. I am in the US and price isn't a major concern. The PC I'm building into this will be used for gaming/VR, streaming, editing, recording, basically everything, lol. The parts going into it will be whichever top end nvidia GPU is out in a couple years, and the highest non X SKU I7 (overclocked and delidded). Why am I building this? I've looked around a lot for a case that can fit perfectly in my media center and come up with nothing that satisfies my needs; to fit nicely in my home theater with minimal noise and light pollution, and without compromising on cooling or components. I also wanted something that doesn't look out of place in my media center (pictured below). Sony 65" A1E for scale Current questions: What material is ideal for this? I'm looking at 1/4" MDF currently, but am concerned about strength due to the small cuts being made. Could sheet metal or plastic serve better? Would a switch to a slightly larger rad be beneficial? The current rad is a dual 180, but a slightly thicker triple 140 would perform slightly better at the expense of reservoir placement and ease of design. Part list: Radiator: EK-CoolStream WE 360 Reservoir: EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM Rad fans: SILVERSTONE AP181 Mobo tray/PCI cage: Caselabs Merlin ATX Front I/O: Corsair carbide 240 replacement part Building material: 1/4" MDF Top window: Tinted acrylic Vinyl wrap: 3M Matte black Ventilation grate: 3'x3' Black aluminium grate If anyone can recommend better alternatives to the parts listed above, I would really appreciate it! ====================================================================================================== Front Rad is a dual 180mm, as that was the largest I could possibly fit given my spacing. Rear fan is 120. Keep in mind that most of the internal components are only placeholder parts that match average sizes. I also added rear ventilation for better airflow.
  4. I am using 3/8" ID - 1/2" OD tubing and I wanted to know what sized fittings from EK would be compatible. I am using hardline and would like to use compression fittings
  5. Here we go with another project, this one is really really badass, I found a limited edition case from InWin, the S-Frame, black/gold edition, only 500 pieces produced! Small premise: I bought the case in really worst condition, painted, full of extra holes and damaged, I wanna try to restore this gold piece, it’ll be impossibile to make it same as before, the gold color on the edges and the satin on the front of the case will not be present because I have to repaint it at all but I’ll do my best. Photos of the case soon, there will be a lot of work on it for more: https://www.inwin-style.com/en/gaming-chassis/S-Frame
  6. I am interested in making my own custom build pc and have but together some parts for the build. Nothing has been ordered yet, this is just what I am planning on atm. My issue is as follows: I am someone who for the past few years has used a high-end laptop with great specs to do whatever I have had to, from gaming to work and such. At some point I added a second screen and I do not know how I have ever lived without it. I was planning on doing the same thing for the new rig im going to build, however I heard a lot of my friends talk about the fact that sometimes it wasnt easy to handle and would slow your system down or affect it negatively. This seemed like an unusual conclusion to arrive to for me, but not being the most knowledgeable in displays and this being my first own personal custom build, I figured it was worth addressing the forums for an opinion. The graphics card I have chosen only has 2 DP ports due to the "VR Ready" feature that gives it 2 HDMI 2.0 ports as well. I am planning on sticking to 2 monitors to start with through DP connection. I doubt this will be a problem for the rig I have set up, however ill ask anyway. Secondly, I think about adding a third monitor, but for this, i'll have to use an HDMI port, will this cause any trouble? Here is the build CPU: Intel i7-7700k GPU: Asus Nvidia Geforce GTX 1080 ti OC CPU cooler: NZXT Kraken x52 Case: Corsair Crystal 460x RGB HDD: Seagate Barracude 3tb SSD: 1TB Samsung 850evo Motherboard; Asus MAXIMUS IX FORMULA PSU: Corsair HX750i RAM: Corsair 16GB DDR4 Vengeance 3200MHz Extra case fans: 3xAF120 performance edition Corsair
  7. Hi I would like to know what would be the best card design for 3 way sli, I see a lot of people saying reference is the best, but could anyone confirm this? What would be the difference with custom design such as this gigabyte card?
  8. Hey, i'm not sure what cables I need to buy for this PC can anyone help? https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/JThhwV
  9. I was planning on making a large battery bank from 20 18650 batteries, and since that might take a while, I was wondering if I would be able to attatch multiple charging inputs for faster charging times. Or is there a limited input speed. Please tell me if there is a better way to do this than shown in the diagram Thanks.
  10. (my motherboard: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7CKVW9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_H95rzbMPJPRW8 ) I want to add bluetooth/wifihotspot support to a computer im building, but i dont want dongles taking up my usb ports, where they could mess with the aesthetic and such. (im sorry for any mistakes, this is my first post)
  11. Need help choosing a cpu for my workstation build Using this workstation for animation and video editing and streaming game play My budget is $400 for the CPU
  12. So I am looking to get into liquid cooling to really dive into it. I have in the past used a water cooled heat sink before but it did not work out well and it did die after about 1-2 years. So Im looking to really get into water cooling and I need to know all the things i need to get started. I am with a amd build if that helps out but i will be upgrading to the ryzen soon and will also be putting all this water cooling within a custom built desk (itll have an estimated volume of about 1680 inch3) (using a 70 inch base board with 3/4 inch taken from each side) So this gives me plenty of room with tubing and placing the motherboard and such. At any rate I know I would like the liquid itself to be purple instead of the green or neon blue and such, but for what I need, I do not exactly know, nor the prices since most items seem to be $100 plus a part. I guess for basics this would be my setup https://pcpartpicker.com/list/C2VWvV but with a 700 watt psu that I have. will that psu be enough for liquid cooling and maybe some RGB lighting or would i need a dedicated one for it? Any help with getting started will be nice.
  13. Hey, So I'm doing a new custom PC and I really wanted to focus on the aesthetics of it and try to make it a show piece. I really wanted to get your guys opinions on what all I've got together so far. I'm trying to get into some custom water cooling which is why I've got the A240G there, I saw Jayz video on it and thought I might give a try. With the a240G my Graphics card needed to be founders from what I understand but hopefully someone can clear that up for me. I also wanted to get all new peripherals since mine are getting pretty beat up after 4 years of use, so any tips about the ones I've got picked out would be great. i'm looking to spend right around 2,200$ for everything, less would be great obviously but nothing over 2,500$ https://pcpartpicker.com/list/yR882R Thanks in Advance!!!!
  14. BUILD IN PROGRESS The build is still in progress. More pictures and information will follow soon. PREAMBLE I always wanted to build a white and green themed PC, which was somewhat of a problem at the beginning due to the lack of white and green components and also low budget. But now I can finally tackle this problem. I won't talk much around this as you're probably more interested into some pictures and specs. If you have any questions feel free to ask, I'll answer them as soon as I can. If there are enough questions comming up I'll add a QA-segment to the post. SPECIFICATIONS Intel Core i7 - 6700K ASUS Z170 Sabertooth S Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR4 2800Mhz 16GB (4x4) EVGA GTX 1080 ACX 3.0 Corsair AX760i Power Supply CableMod Custom Length PSU Cables Paracord White Samsung 850 EVO SSD 1TB Samsung 850 EVO SSD 1TB Samsung 850 EVO SSD 128GB NZXT AER RGB120 Fan NZXT AER RGB120 Fan NZXT AER RGB120 Fan EKWB CoolStream SE360 Radiator EKWB Supremecy EVO Original CSQ CPU Waterblock XSPC Razor GTX 1080 GPU Waterblock XSPC Razor GTX 1080 Backplate Monsoon Hardline Hardlock Fittings (Replaced with EKWB EK-HDC 12mm Fittings) Monsoon Hardline Tubing 10/13mm (Replaced with Bitspower Crystal Link 12/10mm Tubing) Primochill CTR Phase 2 120mm Laing D5 Reservoir + Pump Combo Mayhems Ultra Pure H2O Liquid Mayhems Emerald Green Dye PICTURES More comming soon. Estimated build day: June 15th Update June 21st After having multiple problems with my pump and monsoon fittings I can finally present to you a first sneek peek. I still have to add the green dye and make some slight modifikations, but it is almost done! Excuse the bad picture quality - I'm just happy that I finally got there.
  15. Hello, I would like to sleeve the cables for my computer. I have a Seasonic 660p Platinum PSU. So some quick questions: 1. What do I need 2. How are the pins in the attached Image called? (maybe also in German) 3. Where can I get this Stuff? (I am from Austria) Pins, Plugs, Pliers for Pins, Sleeving 4. What is the approximate cost for sleeving myself a kit consisting of: - 1 x 24 Pin ATX - 1 x 8 Pin EPS/CPU - 1 x 8 Pin PCIe - 1 x 6 Pin PCIe - 1 x SATA Power for 4 Sata Devices (2 x SSD, 1 x Hue+, 1 x Fanhub of Define S) Cables aren't a problem, as I already have a whole lot of 1,5mm² flexible cables. Thank you and Regards, Robin Also sorry for any bad english...
  16. This is a super custom CNC'd air craft grade aluminum Ryzen branded case and it is insane. Anyone ever seen these before? www.xynos.com I've got a YT vid of it too. The owner is interested in sending one to Linus, what do you think????? Youtube:
  17. If you have ever wanted to paint something, whether it be a case, keyboard, game controller, or an accent piece to a build. There is a proper method to do it. I know what you are probably thinking. "Linus already did a video on painting." And to that you are correct. But Linus could not have been any more wrong with his method. Plastidip is great if you need to RMA your part as you can peel it off, but any good paintjob should not be using plastidip. There are simply too many flaws with it, and yes, I have used it. It peeled off of my keyboard in less than a month. If you are going to come here to argue "Plastidip master race" than please go start your own post. I have been modding and painting PC parts for over 5 years. I have done most of my keyboards, some PC cases, graphics cards, motherboards, video game controllers, household items, and furniture. Disclaimer: you can void the warranty if you paint a part of your PC. You can also ruin your part if you do not do things carefully. PAINTING GUIDELINES 1.Visualize The first thing to do when painting is to not paint. Know what you want to do. Do you want a glossy ar flat finish? Textured or smooth? What color? How many colors? Any patterns? This first step is dynamic. Come back here often as you do your research, as you will probably change your mind as you begin to see and realize more things.1. Acquaint Yourself Find out what type of materials you are working with. Is it plastic or metal? What type of plastic or metal? Paints that work well with ABS may not work well with Vinyl.2. Research You want to do research on multiple topics. Research components that have a similar paint job. It could be as simple as typing into Google "Painted Yellow PC Case." This will help you revise and finalize what you want to do with your part as you see what other people have done.Next you want to start to do research on paints. Things get really difficult here. The paints that appear most frequently on Google searches are the ones that usually get the worst reviews. Automotive and Hobby forums are usually the best places to find good paints. Read reviews in multiple places. Paints that have a good rep on Amazon may be the laughingstock of a reputable hobby forum. (Beats anyone?) A good method is BRAND + APPLICATION + SURFACE; "Rustoleum Primer for Vinyl" Usually when doing research, you will find out various painting techniques and tricks.Look at videos that show proper painting technique for your paints. Most paints just require lots of light even layers. But this may be different if you want a pattern or have a special paint. You need to make sure to paint in a gentle sweeping motion, say left-to-right and back in zig-zags, and don't spray over a single spot for longer than a moment or you will spray too much! It is better to spray too little and go over a bare spot a few times again later than to spray too much. Spraying too much results in sagging and inhibits proper curing.Research Proper Sanding techniques of your objects material. If you sand an item wrong, you risk making hard to cover up marks. More on this below.Go back to your original idea and revise it if you feel you want or need to.Make sure you have done research for all layers of paint you need. (More details later). 2.5. MAKE SURE YOUR PAINT WORKS. Some paints are not meant to be exposed to sunlight like florescent paints. Some may not work without certain primers or basecoats. Some are not very durable; some are thin, runny, not supposed to be heated, and don't cover well; some depend on the color of paint under them to influence the outcome (chameleon paints), etc. This is all part of your research. Make sure you have the right paint for the right job.3. Paints Paints. Make sure you read / research carefully which paints you are getting. Their composition varies, and they usually fall into these common categories for rattle cans: acrylic lacquers and oil enamels for general purpose rattle cans. There are also other varieties of paint which are intended for automotive painting and are generally more expensive: acrylic enamels (enamels are harder than lacquers), acrylic urethanes (1K (1-stage) and 2K (2-stage, multiple components)) and they usually require more preparation, such as an adhesion promoter, an epoxy primer for urethane paints, an appropriate urethane top clear coat, etc. Urethane paints are also dramatically more toxic, and you must have good ventilation while spraying as well as wear proper full-face masks and protective clothing. Anyway, for most people here, acrylic lacquers and oil enamels will be the paints of choice, as they come in easily accessible rattle cans and don't cost a mini fortune. Note that acrylic lacquers and oil enamels are not really rubbing and finger-oil-proof. So say if you paint a mouse and clear coat it and all that, you will still see the paint will begin to wear off in a month or so over the click buttons. For touch-proof frequently handled surfaces, you need to go with more professional paints, such as 2K urethane paints. But you may be able to get away with something cheaper, depending on its use. I use Oil Enamel on a lot of my keyboards. The edges really don't get touched often enough for rapid wear. Oil enamel can be layered over oil enamel and over acrylic lacquer. Acrylic lacquer SHOULD NOT be layered over oil enamel. This applies to colors and clear coats and is important for proper curing as well as avoiding dissolving and lifting your base layers when spraying new paint over them.Primers/Promoters. If your paint does not come premixed with a primer, it's a safe assumption that you should get a primer or some sort of an adhesion promoter just in case. Get a complimentary color primer. If you are looking for a darker color, get a black or grey primer. If you are looking for a light color get a light grey or white primer. If you wish to retain some of the color of your part, get a clear primer.Fillers. If you have an uneven surface and you cannot sand it, get a filler. They really do help to make an uneven surface smooth enough so it may be painted over. Make sure you sand or scuff it when you are done.Clear Coats. For most paints, I would STRONGLY recommend a clear coat. Clears are generally harder than colors, and they help protect your work against scuffs, minor scratches, and dullness. For example, you will have a much harder time scratching a clear-coated paint job with your fingernail than if you just left it with color paint and no clear coat. Clears come in different types: gloss, satin, matte, as well as mixed with some pearl or iridescent particles for a desired effect. Gloss clear is the most transparent clear you will get. It is, understandably, glossy and generally requires some polishing work afterwards. Matte clears generally contain a sort of a milky substance that's part of what makes them matte, and you will unfortunately see your matte clears if you spray them over dark gloss base color paints. So say if you're spraying gloss brown, going over it with a matte clear is not a good idea. You want to look for a matte brown and then follow with a very fine veil of matte clear. Otherwise, gloss clear over gloss brown will look best. You can spray matte clear over LIGHT-toned gloss colors (like over light beige) to end up with a semi-matte textured effect, sort of like old school beige computer plastics. You can spray clear right after you paint your colored paint--if you're happy with how that came out. If you wait more than an hour in between, you should wait the recommended 24-48 hours (or even longer) before adding clear coats to ensure proper curing. Spraying gloss clear paint too much too fast can result in yellowing. If you see any yellowing in some crevice where clear paint has accumulated--don't panic! Generally (not always) the yellow tint goes away after the paint cures in a day or two. Once you do coat your work with a clear, it will be significantly more difficult to touch up. So do all the corrections before you spray your clear. 4. Pre-painting Preparation Prepare a workspace. Painting with spray paint is not the neatest of jobs. Clouds of tiny aerosol particles of paint will form around the area you're spraying, and those clouds are 1. not exactly healthy to breathe, 2. can cover you and your clothes with paint over time, and 3. will paint the surroundings. Use plenty of cardboard to cover your work area and preferably spray outside or in a well-ventilated garage. Stay away from areas with lots of particles in the air or dust as they can show on a painting job and prevent the paint from settling on the material.Make sure you read the instructions on the can.They often contain crucial info. Including how long to wait in-between coats and other important info. If it says to wait at least 5 minutes between consecutive coats--please wait at least 5 minutes. Paints must cure for proper hardness and adhesion, and improper application can stall or prevent proper curing, causing your paint to lift, crack, peel off, etc. Painting in high humidity also has adverse effects on curing as well as the actual process of spraying an aerosol cloud of paint particles onto a surface. You may end up with a cloudy uneven finish.Surface Preparation/Sanding. You want to strip your surface down to the base plastic. Remove any coating, including paint, rubber, plastic film, or clear coats. This is done for adhesion purposes, it will not matter if you have the right paint, if you are applying it to the wrong surface. Good quality sandpaper is really important, and make sure to sand wet surfaces. Water helps to rinse away any particles, prevents the object from warping, and provides a more consistent sanding job. Clean down to the bare material (plastic, metal, etc). While sanding, let the paper do the work, if you are too aggressive you can make large scuff marks that are tough to cover up. Gentle circular motions are good. Avoid sanding corners and angled surfaces too much. Once you have sanded your piece to the bare material or your piece is all that material to start with, use steel wool or fine sandpaper to scuff the surface. Paint loves to adhere to microscopic scratches. Never paint mirror-smooth surfaces, always scuff them a bit. Wash with detergent and water, rinse really REALLY well, allow to dry COMPLETELY, then go over the surface with a fiber cloth soaked in alcohol. Get a cloth that removes lint and dust--any dust particles left on the surface tend to come through the paint. If you have any grease on it, and you cannot remove it, use a professional grease and tar remover (can be gotten for under $10 in auto supply shops).5. Test Painting What you DON'T want to do at this point is to hop right in and start painting your piece. You don't want to commit all that time to find out you have a bad can of paint halfway through painting your piece and risk scraping it, or redoing everything, including all that tedious sanding.Guidelines to test painting. REMEMBER TO PAINT LOTS OF SAMPLES OF WHAT YOU PLAN ON PAINTING. Use scrap metal, plastic, old gaming controllers, plastic sporks and other utensils, really anything that will give you a good idea of how your paints and primers and whatever else you are using will1. work together 2. how long it will take for them to dry 3. if you will like the final result or whether you need to change something 4. how durable the paint will be (give it a good few days to cure) When Beginning to Paint. Each time you haven't used a particular can of paint for a while (or it's the first time you use it), after shaking the can well, spray elsewhere other than on your project to get the flow of the paint going properly. Then spray onto some scrap cardboard or plastic to see if the paint comes out evenly. Sometimes a nozzle is bad, and you'll get paint running down the can onto your fingers. Or worse, you will get larger droplets of paint onto your project, that will look like small splatters among the finely sprayed paint. Cleaning the nozzle with a paper towel or an alcohol-soaked cotton ball periodically helps, if it's one of those poorly-spraying ones. Sometimes it's best to take off the nozzle entirely and give it a good cleaning with some alcohol. If any paint has dried to cover the hole of the nozzle, you will get an uneven spray. It can even just be a poorly-designed nozzle to start with, and you should use something else. Furthermore, some paint starts out with small caked bits that end up shooting out of the nozzle and sticking to your painted surface. It looks terrible--like small particles of dirt or lint trapped under paint. Usually shaking well and regularly is great to help with this, but some paint is just bad, and you won't be able to get rid of those little balled up congealed pieces. Better to scrap that can and get a new one. This is another reason for painting onto something unimportant first. Imagine your surface is all nicely prepared and already painted with a few layers of paint. Then you come back, spray some more... and get a bunch of tiny pieces of gunk onto the surface.6. Painting You made it. All that time and effort. You are ready to do a really good paintjob. Light Layers. Unless you really know what you are doing. (If you are reading this guide, you probably don't). Make lots of really light layers. Things will look poor at first, you will have this awful blend of colors, but as you add more layers things will look better. Don't worry too much if your layers are inconsistent. It is worse to hover over an area for too long, rather than not enough. The color will even itself out the more layers you add. Make sure you are waiting the proper time in-between layers. Apply enough layers of primer, paint, and clearcoat. Your research or the can should help you with this.Order. If you haven't figured it out yet, the order to paint is 1. Sand/Scuff 2. Primer 3. Paint 4. ClearcoatPatterns. Patterns work differently than most paintjobs. ALOT of experimentation and research must be done. You have to decide your base color and accent colors. How you are going to layer them, and what you are going to use to create the pattern. Painters tape and various household items are your best friends. I cannot give you specific guidelines as the layering varies per pattern. Google and your experimentation sporks are your best friends.Curing and Waiting. Unfortunately there will be a lot of waiting. Curing is one of the most important things you can do for your boards. But it tests your patience alot. All you want to do is get your hands on your fancy new keyboard, but if you start playing with it prematurely that paintjob is meaningless, as you probably just screwed up your settling paint. Read your paintcan label and it will tell you when it is safe to start handling the board. This waiting period is usually 24-48 hrs.7. Post Painting Polishing. Polishing the clear coat is what gives that car-like shiny finish to paints without enough metal flake. I recommend you do a bit of research yourself, as polishing can get tricky. Surface preparation extremely for a smooth finish. Wet-sand the fully dry clear coat with 1500-, then 2000-grit sand paper. Make really light circles, and avoid sanding edges too much. I know what you are thinking, dosent sanding destroy all that work we just did? And the answer is yes, if you are not careful. This is very high grit sand paper, and it is used to make a better surface for polishing in this case. This WILL make the surface look dull, but the polish will fix that. Wash with warm soapy water and inspect to see if you need to do any more sanding. Once you are satisfied, continue to a rubbing compound. Follow with a rubbing compound (finer than sand paper) rub with cotton balls or a special high density foam sponge. Finish with a polishing compound (the finest last stage of reducing dullness and swirls). Once you are done you should have a really nice and shiny finish on your keyboard.A Few Tips on Polishing. MORE POLISHING IS NOT THE ANSWER. This will not make your surface any shinier. You could do too much and end up with on uneven looking cover. If you find you have done a poor job, the wrong approach is to re sand and polish. You will destroy your clear coat and paint, and have to re-sand and repaint EVERYTHING. Your sandpaper and rubbing compound can rub through your clear coat and paint. Be careful to not remove too much clear coat. The proper way to re-polish if you have done a bad job is to wash the surface and re-apply a clear coat. If you know you are going to be doing any polishing, make sure you apply a thick clear coat. This is tricky because applying too much clear coat can turn it milky and make the surface look dull. The best solution is to use your handy Practice Sporks. PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE. If you are using an oil-based enamel where you do a gloss clear coat. There are cases where you might be doing a matte clear coat or no clear coat at all, depending on your desired texture and look. In those cases, you may only need to use a rubbing compound lightly, followed by a polishing compound. Or nothing at all, just a rub with a damp lint-free cloth. As for how long you should polish, there's no right answer. You won't get a perfect finish anyway, because you're limited by spray cans and lots of curves on surfaces such as a keyboard case, so just do what you think looks good and don't worry about it too much. The more clear coat you put on, the thicker the clear layer is, and the more you can sand off with very fine sandpaper (2000-grit) to smooth out the surface to mirror shine. Problem is that too much clear coat can be bad: if you spray too much and too soon, it can turn milky, can become dull, or can even give your paint a yellow shade (depends on clear coat, some are better quality and resist yellowing better, but nonetheless, if you spray too thick, most likely you will see the yellowing). For computer cases, you can safely do multiple thicker clear coats and sand them later, as surfaces are generally flat and extended, which makes polishing easier. For keyboards, I'd stick with a few thin layers of clear coat. There's a difference between a wet shine look from a thinner clear coat and a wet shine look from a too-thick clear coat where you spray too much at once, and the paint is all runny. As you practice, you will get a feel for "too much" for a single layer. Remember that you don't want too much paint in total, as it will inhibit the curing process. Just do the best you can and stop when you can't remove any more.Upkeep and Maintenance. If you did a good job, your paint job will last you a long time. If and when that starts to deteriorate, chip, or peel. It is most likely time to redo everything anyway. By the time you fix one problem, another will arise. For everyone else, generally I would advise redoing a chipping or peeling paint job, but if it is fading, I recommend to just do touch ups. Start by sanding off the clear coat, and a tiny bit of the paint. Repaint, until you have an even surface, or until you use enough layers. Then re-apply the clear coat. If you just have a chipped corner, a quick fix would be to use model or hobby brush paints. It won't look great, but better than chipped.Re-painting. Sand. Rinse. and Repeat. GOOD LUCK AND HAPPY PAINTING!!! Please feel free to leave any compliments, criticism, or anything that you think needs revision. Please Like this guide and share it. I want to give alot of credit to Photoelectric at Geekhack who really catalyzed my painting hobby.
  18. Hi. I've been looking around for a custom rig to build and I have become very interested in this one. The issue is, price is too high. $1,500 to $2,000 will work for me. Also, things you would change? I'd like to know.
  19. Hey guys! Really looking for some help with a custom watercooling project. I've had incredibly little experience with custom loops bordering on essentially none. Despite that fact, I've decided to do a relatively complex project and there's no stopping me. Im building a PC inside a desk and I want to do a custom watercooling loop. My main hang ups are the drain and fill ports and Im seeking advice. Since the whole loop is horizontal there is no "lowest point" where I would naturally put the drain port. That on top of me having no idea how it all works is why I am here. The 2 crude drawings below are my best attempts at coming up with 2 solutions. The best option I saw so far was the ek xres multiport resovoir top pictured. My question is: if I put the drain port right after the pump and the pump is right after the res, could I just run the pump until the res starts to get low? That seems like it would make life so much easier. In either case, the drain port would go through the bottom of the table. Let me know which of my 2 plans seem better, or if there is a 3rd option you guys would recommend. For the record I plan on using a d5 pump and an xpsc crossflow radiator for a cleaner look IMO
  20. Hi, I have a Vodafone Smart 4 Turbo. I've had it for about 3 years and now I want to try something different by installing a new version of Android on it. However, for the life of me I can't find anything like Lollipop 5.0 to use on it or Marshmallow 6.0 as a custom ROM for it... Does anyone know where I could find them for me to use? Or even just give me the link straight to a possible ROM? I already use KitKat version 4.4.4. If I can't get it working, then I have a Kindle coming in the post soon so I can try it on that instead. Thanks, BP
  21. I've been wanting to upgrade my pc and get some new things to go along with it. I'm currently looking at getting the following: NZXT - Kraken X52, Asus - GeForce GTX 1080, Asus - VG248QE (2x), Aer RGB & HUE+ What I wanted to know is what motherboard should I upgrade to/get, I'm curious as to if there will be installation issues. What I mean is can I just get a bunch of new parts and plug them in and just go, or will I have to do some formatting before/after the installation process. Here is the list of parts I have currently when I built my PC a number of years ago (PCPartPicker) I was looking at this motherboard: ASUS ROG, problem is I don't know which one lol. Thanks in advance.
  22. Build your own PC case from scratch I came across this video. All you need is imagination.
  23. So I'm looking to do a full liquid loop, however I then wouldn't touch the parts for 4 years-ish for obvious reasons. Would it make more sense to upgrade my cpu (4790k) and mobo before i do the loop or should I be concerned at all about what I have. Also, ik I sound a bit "woe is me and my 4790k", but I'm just covering my bases. Thanks in advance. Cpu: 4790k Mobo: Gigabyte z97N m-itx
  24. Welcome to my AX860i mod log! Today we will be replacing the stock fan with a nice and quiet Noiseblocker eLoop. NOTE-this is only for PSUs that have a 120 or 140mm fan, the AX1200i (and maybe 1500i?) uses a 135mm fan which cannot be replaced. A known issue with the AXi power supplies from Corsair is that they make a clicking noise when the fan is off, and it sounds like a "leaky faucet" every 5-10 seconds. This is because the Yate Loon fan in the PSU is still getting a really low PWM signal, but it is stalled and cannot turn. A solution is to set the PSU fan to minimum speed (40%) but that is still very loud. Here is how you can replace the 120mm fan in an AX760i or AX860i with a better PWM fan.
  25. Hey guys, today I finished my first custom loop inside my "Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ITX" case. It has been quite challenging for me, especially the reservoir placement and the tubing runs (I had to do the whole loop twice because two tubes kinked after I had filled the loop), but I think it was worth it. The specs of the system are the following: processor: i5 6600k mainboard: AsRock Z270 ITX/ac Ram: 8GB GSkill Ripjaws PSU: Corsair CX600M GPU: GTX 980 Superclocked from EVGA SSD: Samsung 850 pro (256GB) I used two 240mm Radiators, and with prime95 running (Small FTTs) the temperatur does not go above 62 degrees C (At the Stock clock but im going to overclock the CPU in the next few days). At last here are some pictures (comments and advice/feedback are appreciated):