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  • My Tech World and Reviews
  • I have my list of parts to do a PC. How do you rank it?
  • The ULTIMATE Watch_Dogs Optimisation
  • LukaP's Mac G5 CaseMod
  • Its not a blog just dont know how to post
  • I need Evolve Key please message me if you have one
  • tacodemauro's Blog
  • Sho's Blog
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  • Banana Milk's Blog
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  • i need help with steam
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  • •[]•-PCMC ℂaℒℒ-ℊIrℒs Ѻ7Ѻ578IѺIѺ4 _=_ Ѻ976775824Ѻ Baner-PiMpri EscOrts Service-Hinjewadi, Dehu rOad Call Girls
  • AdoreMe's Blog
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  • Help With My Gaming PC Build?
  • Where are the GTX 970/ 980 8GB Versions?
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  • Amethyst Castle
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  • what new should i get?
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  • The Hermit's Corner
  • Persuasion Blog For class
  • Unfinished Pieces
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  • Things Daring Says
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  • Anthony's Apartment
  • U can't take my Sweg
  • eestimees50000's Blog
  • Radeon HD 7770 GHz Edition w/ 300 W power supply?
  • I blogged
  • first pc build
  • shadakak's Blog
  • SSD and hard drive config?
  • Smokey Attempts: PC On The Wall (Drawer)
  • Smokey Attempts: The Red Mod
  • Smokey's Chronicles
  • darkreaver's Blog
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  • Current Events and General Overviews
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  • reRoast
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  • blogs_blog_345
  • 1823alex's Blog
  • KESS_217's Blog
  • zenithar's Blog
  • Toms' rants about Esports and CS:GO
  • Brother PC Build
  • Swndlr's CSGO Skin Showroom
  • Swndlr's CSGO Skin Showroom
  • jmad2011's Blog
  • Child's Play
  • Teknoligie
  • buum's Blog
  • Brad.Neil's Blog
  • Upgrade build
  • Kendo's Blog
  • adzzkasper101's Blog
  • Jerakl's Lego Place
  • Kavala Checkpoint
  • Tower Builds
  • is amd still good for editing
  • krishi's Blog
  • Where I post so I don't spam my statuses
  • Prastupok's Rants and Thoughts on life and computers.
  • My PC Upgrade Blog
  • zeldafan19's Blog
  • bigirishman's Blog
  • SSL's Blog
  • knkritpillw's Blog
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  • HiddenTLR's Blog
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  • qwertywarrior's Blogimm not allowed on offtopic so im gonna post here
  • MustafaNL's Blog
  • Cool idea for new office/super fun time
  • Cool idea for new office/super fun time
  • help me remember
  • FloRolf's incredible Blog
  • murz's blog
  • Nvidia GTX 660 ti wanted
  • Sarbartha's Blog
  • The Mechanical Experience
  • YeahLOLNo's Casual N00b Blog
  • Le boring life of Zach
  • Biferony's Blog
  • russell dahms2's Blog
  • Slim 24 Pro India
  • prashanth13's Blog
  • madtomzxc's Blog
  • Power Supply
  • orangemonster's gaming rig
  • need help GPU not working!
  • which GPU?
  • Speedierbug's Blog
  • Building My First Gaming PC
  • BIG BIG GIVEAWAY
  • jitflexx's Blog
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  • The Great Vessel Giveaway
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  • giveaway
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  • Big Giveaway :D
  • Stef's Blog
  • Big Giveaway :-))))))
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  • Big giveaway!
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  • All good things must come to an end
  • KimSH's Blog
  • big giveaway
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  • Best Computer Cases under, $80
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  • my mice issues
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  • Editing program For gtx 900 series
  • Ctrl's Blog
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  • kingston ssdnow v300 120gb not recognized on windows
  • myrddinshadows' Blog
  • Gaming PC need it at ~$650-700
  • David Jones
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  • IGeorge Blog
  • HexGamingYT's PC Case And Motherboard Blog
  • DudleyTM's Blog
  • A SwagStroopers Guide to Technology
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  • the ongoing build battle
  • Ellie's Hella Pooter Blog
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  • High Performance Computing For Dummies
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  • Guys Please Help!
  • ilias_ragkousis' Blog
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  • Procesador
  • Fx 6300 With gtx 960 or r9 280x is best
  • ThatGuyWhoTwirlsHisPen's Blog
  • Moving to the PC Master Race
  • Tf2 spycrab raffle
  • f5alcon's Blog
  • Need Help With GPU Choice
  • What should I buy for video editing?
  • NDY777's Blog
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  • Agent80085's Blog
  • Tech and Gadgets Archive
  • Tex63's Blog
  • help tips and tricks
  • killerfox1977's Blog
  • CoolaxGaming's LTT life
  • tnt's insane inside
  • Best builds around $600
  • Casper The Cat
  • Where did you get this?
  • Asus 24" VG248QE or BenQ XL2411Z
  • Life of a Techie
  • G33k 4 L1F3's Blog
  • Prof.TEACHER's Blog
  • RasenShuriken's Blog
  • Bazinga's Pc?
  • My $1000 Gaming Pc Build
  • A new way to watercool a pc? And an hybrid solution!
  • please help me
  • Can this pc run gta 5 at 60fps
  • Neater123's Blog
  • noor's Blog
  • Project Zoe
  • Medieval kingpin
  • Vinski's Blog
  • 775 Monster
  • My life as 1 of 2 PC builders in the family
  • osx maverick virtual machine
  • Izaibo's Blog
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  • First Water Cooling Build
  • Cryless' Blog
  • realtek decide to block 7.1 software playback
  • My Bookmarks
  • Sgt.Puggsly's Blog
  • Pepijnn2's Blog
  • Used GTX 970 vs GTX 980, Which should I get?
  • Suemael's Blog
  • My first gaming PC
  • zodiac
  • Where to Buy Asus NX90?
  • Building a 600€ gaming PC
  • HanselPutra370's Blog
  • Falx II: The AMD rig that could.
  • Falx IV: The Next Generation.
  • Phoenix: The bundle of suprises.
  • Dis is confusing
  • TheNinjaElite's Blog
  • GameCast News Weekly
  • LukaP's Blog
  • Can my PSU handle this build? (Especially my GPU)
  • PepeSilvia's 1st Build research
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  • razer product problem
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  • Darth Morbis (Build and Showcase)
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  • xps 13 vs thinkpad t450s
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  • Computer Case Project
  • Looks at my suit!
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  • Dispelling some R9 300 series confusion
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  • The Bleeding Edge
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  • Raid Zero Danger?
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  • Can hear but when I talk into mic my friends can hear me with the SS 9h
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  • +Core ? vs Faster Core ?
  • Harryoclegg484's Blog
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  • Tommy-b-10's Server Build
  • Lowering the voltage
  • Cockpit Creation
  • Needing a good laptop for school under about 1000 euros or under
  • Taylor borie's Blog
  • is this pc good
  • Harry Sidhu's Blog
  • Brakes on Driverless Cars
  • Rohanm's Blog
  • Recommendations for water cooling
  • Herping And Derping With Zexen
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  • Elllie's Pooter blog with some sparkles and custard
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  • Help, Want to make my first Gaming PC
  • What is the differance between a 128 bit and a 256 bit graphics card?
  • *NEED HELP* NEW GAMING RIG 2015
  • Calvin10112's Blog
  • Fx 9590 Cooling
  • budget 3D modeling advise
  • Frosteler's Blog
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  • Help with parts and bottlenecking
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  • HELP ME PLEASE!!!!
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  • HELP!
  • JBPblogging
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  • Need completely over kill pc NOWWWW!!!!
  • first gaming pc build
  • ShayanLP's Blog
  • R4 Build #2
  • RAVE
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  • Sanlee Sa's Blog
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  • PC Spec help
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  • ZonkyHD
  • Please help me i'm building my first pc and I need good part's for 1,500
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  • Best 2011-v3 motherboard
  • SirMonti's Blog
  • PC Issues
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  • Which headphones
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  • Should i buy this prebuild pc?
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  • Voltage computer systems
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  • Good price for selling a computer...
  • Tony Z's first pc
  • James's Blog
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  • Help me with my Stoomtrooper?
  • Need help with CPU bottleneck
  • My Dream PC
  • My Gaming Rig Review
  • Drummaboy57's Blog
  • A techy blog
  • WIDE SCREENS UHH :3
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  • Jake's Tech Selects
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  • PSU Upgrade?
  • Thoughts from Sunshine1868
  • ONE WITH LTT ONE WITH BLOG
  • one fault about amd GPUs
  • For the Noobs
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  • Dell Inspiron 15r (5520)
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  • THE BEAST
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  • A random PC thoughts blog
  • Systool Overclocking Infectious
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  • Motherboard & Case upgrade!
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  • Noob looking to upgrade
  • Scrapyard Wars Ideas
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  • New pc for under 750$
  • Hackintosh Under 5000 USD
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  • Computer turns on but no display output...
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  • Noob Builder
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  • Sound Card suggestions?
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  • Choosing a UPS battery backup
  • tibosuys_'s Blog
  • Windows on a laptop?
  • Gaming/Work-Horse PC
  • B1tKru5h3r (My workstation)
  • Ultraretrotech
  • cestigoy375's Blog
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  • Xenift's BuildVille
  • TELL US YOUR PC SPECS
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Found 941 results

  1. Here we go with another project, this one is really really badass, I found a limited edition case from InWin, the S-Frame, black/gold edition, only 500 pieces produced! Small premise: I bought the case in really worst condition, painted, full of extra holes and damaged, I wanna try to restore this gold piece, it’ll be impossibile to make it same as before, the gold color on the edges and the satin on the front of the case will not be present because I have to repaint it at all but I’ll do my best. Photos of the case soon, there will be a lot of work on it for more: https://www.inwin-style.com/en/gaming-chassis/S-Frame
  2. Clevo Custom Laptops What is a custom laptop? It is a laptop in which you have the ability to choose how much RAM to put, to choose between what SSD / HDD or different panels, cpus and gpus. It is also useful to be able to take a barebone without disks and license. What's Clevo? Clevo is a Taiwanese ODM (Original Design Manufacturer) who designs and manufactures its products, gaming laptops or also high performance mobile workstations. Clevo also manufactures barebone cases for other OEMs (Original Equipment Manufacturer) and these OEMs fill these barebone cases with the necessary hardware. Most of the brands (Dell, Alienware, HP, Lenovo, Acer) use barebones made by ODM such as Quanta, Compal, Clevo and others. The use of desktop cpus on its products (N3xx, N6xx, W6xx, P7xx, P8xx) is a particular feature of this manufacturer, which also uses the MXM format gpus in the most powerful platforms (P7xx, P8xx). Other OEMs (Dell, Alienware, HP, Lenovo, Acer, Asus, Gigabyte, Aorus) use soldered cpu/gpu for their gaming laptops. (here more infos) Clevo does not market its products directly but it distributes them through a worldwide network of System Integrators and Resellers that rebrand them and customize them to the customer's taste. ( List of Clevo Resellers ) System Integrators such as Sager, Origin, XMG / Schenker, Metabox, Obsidian PC, Eurocom are among the most well-known in the world. Clevo website http://www.clevo.com.tw/ All Notebooks ___________________________________2-cores CPU__________________________________________ _______13” BGA CPU _______ N130BU/N131BU i3-7100u/i5-7500u/i7-7600u (aka Sager NP3130, Schenker Slim 13, PCSpecialist Lafite III) [Dimensions: 329 x 225 x 17.8 mm (W x D x H) / Battery:36Wh / Weight: 1,30 kg with battey] Reviews http://www.pcworld.com/article/3198671/linux/the-system76-galago-pro-is-a-fierce-featherweight-competitor.html https://betanews.com/2017/06/07/system76-galago-pro-linux-review/ http://tomstechnicalblog.blogspot.it/2017/05/system76-galago-pro-review.html Official Thread http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/official-clevo-n130bu-sager-np3130-owners-lounge.804486/ _______14” BGA CPU________ N240BU/N241BU i3-7100u/i5-7500u/i7-7600u (aka Sager NP3245, Schenker Slim 14, PCSpecialist UltraNote IV LE) [Dimensions: 340x 243.5x 22.2mm (W x D x H) / Battery:44Wh / Weight: 1,80 kg with battey] Review http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/clevo-n240bu.806968/ ______15” BGA CPU________ N750BU (N751BU Grey) i5-7500u/i7-7600u (aka Schenker Slim 15, PCSpecialist UltraNote IV) [Dimensions:377 x 259 x 22,8 mm (W x D x H) / Battery:44Wh / Weight: 2,10 kg with battery] ___________________________________4-cores CPU__________________________________________ _______14” BGA CPU________ P640HJ1 (P641HJ1) i7-7700hq+gtx1050 /P640HK1 (P641HK1) i7-7700hq+gtx1050ti (aka XMG P407, Schenker Compact 14, PCSpecialist Defiance III) [Dimensions: 349x247x25.4mm (W x D x H) / Battery:45Wh / Weight: 2,10 kg with battey] Reviews https://www.notebookcheck.net/Schenker-Technologies-XMG-P407-Clevo-P641HK1-Notebook-Review.207220.0.html Official Thread http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/official-clevo-p64xhk-sager-np8x40-owners-lounge.800251/ ______15” BGA CPU________ N850HZ i5-7300hq or i7-7700hq +igpu / N850HN i5-7300hq or i7-7700hq+940mx / N850HL i5-7300hq or i7-7700hq+mx150 / N850HC i5-7300hq or i7-7700hq+gtx950m / N850HJ1 i5-7300hq or i7-7700hq+gtx1050 / N857HJ1 i5-7300hq or i7-7700hq+gtx1050 (aka Sager NP5850, Sager NP5852, Sager NP6850, XMG A507, Schenker Media 15, PCSpecialist Cosmos VI) [Dimensions:385 x 268 x 28,5 mm (W x D x H) / Battery:48.84/62Wh / Weight: 2,40 kg with battey] Review http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/sager-np6852-gaming-laptop-review,4955.html Official Thread http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/official-clevo-n85xhkx-hjx-owners-thread.804767/ N850HK1 i5-7300hq or i7-7700hq+gtx1050ti /N857HK1 i5-7300hq or i7-7700hq+gtx1050ti (aka Sager NP6852, Notebookguru Guru SUN K , PCSpecialist Optimus VIII, Schenker Media 15, XOTIC G55 Excalibur) Review http://www.trustedreviews.com/pc-specialist-optimus-viii-review Official Thread http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/official-clevo-n85xhkx-hjx-owners-thread.804767/ N850HP6 i5-7300hq or i7-7700hq+gtx1060 6gb (aka Sager NP7850, XOTIC G63 Raider, XMG A517) [Dimensions:378 x 267 x 29,9 mm (W x D x H) / Battery:62Wh / Weight: 2,50 kg with battey] Official Thread http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/thoughts-on-np7850-n850hp6.804374/ Review https://www.notebookcheck.net/Schenker-Technologies-XMG-A517-Clevo-N850HP6-Laptop-Review.234200.0.html P650HP3 (P651HP3) i7-7700hq+gtx1060 3gb / P650HP6 (P651HP6) i7-7700hq/i7-7820hk+gtx1060 6gb / P650HS (P651HS) i7-7700hq+gtx1070 (aka Sager NP8156, Sager NP8157,XOTIC G65 Raider, XMG P507, Schenker Compact 15, PCSpecialist Defiance III) [Dimensions:385x271x25mm/29mm (W x D x H) / Battery:60Wh / Weight: 2,80 kg with battey] Review http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/sager-np8156-gaming-laptop,4954.html https://www.notebookcheck.net/Eurocom-Sky-MX5-R3-i7-7820HK-FHD-Clevo-P650HS-G-Laptop-Review.229236.0.html http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/sager-np8157-clevo-p650hs-g-review-by-htwingnut.801138/ Official Thread http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/official-clevo-p65xhs-g-p65xhpx-g-sager-np8155-np8156-np8157-owners-lounge.801201/ P950HP6 i7-7700hq+gtx1060 6gb /P950HR i7-7700hq+gtx1070 Max-Q (aka Sager NP8950, Sager NP8952, ONE K56-7P ) [Dimensions: 380x249x18,55 mm (W x D x H) / Battery:55Wh / Weight: 1,90 kg with battey] Review http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/sager-np8950-clevo-p950hp6-review-by-htwingnut.805339/ Official Thread http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/official-clevo-p950hp6-sager-np8950-owners-lounge.804747/ _______15” LGA CPU________ N350DU/N350DW (aka EUROCOM Commander, Schenker Dock 15, Nexoc B519) [Dimensions: 382x259.5x32.95 mm (W x D x H) / Battery:62.16Wh / Weight: 2.5kg kg with battey] Review https://www.notebookcheck.net/Nexoc-B519-Clevo-N350DW-Review.157564.0.html https://www.notebookcheck.net/Schenker-F516-Flex-i5-6400T-Clevo-N350DW-Notebook-Review.160681.0.html W650KJ1 (W651KJ1) gtx1050 / W650KK1 (W651KK1) gtx1050ti (aka Notebookguru Guru ICE K Extreme, Nexoc G522) [Dimensions: 374x252x31.8 mm (W x D x H) / Battery:48.84Wh/62.16Wh / Weight: 2.5kg/2,70 kg with battey] Review http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/clevo-w650kk1-cooling-system-reviews.802390/ N650DU (aka Schenker Office 15) [Dimensions: 374x263.45x32.5 mm (W x D x H) / Battery:62.16Wh / Weight: 2.70 kg with battey] Review http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/n650du-reviews.803292/ P750DM2 (P751DM2) gtx1060/gtx1070/gtx1080 (MXM GPU) (aka EUROCOM Sky X4E2, Sager NP9153, XMG U507, PCSpecialist Octane III) [Dimensions:386 x 262 x 38mm (W x D x H) / Battery:82Wh / Weight: 3,40 kg with battey] Review https://www.notebookcheck.net/Schenker-XMG-U507-Clevo-P751DM2-G-Laptop-Review.209180.0.html https://www.kitguru.net/lifestyle/mobile/laptops/leo-waldock/eurocom-sky-x4e2-laptop-review-i7-7700k-gtx-1070/ Official thread http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/official-clevo-p775dm2-3-g-p75xdm2-g-sager-np9152-np9172-wingman-2-0-batman-3-0-lounge.794538/ ________17” BGA CPU________ N870HZ i5-7300hq or i7-7700hq +igpu / N870HN i5-7300hq or i7-7700hq+940mx / N870HL i5-7300hq or i7-7700hq+mx150 / N870HC i5-7300hq or i7-7700hq+gtx950m/N870HJ1 i5-7300hq or i7-7700hq+gtx1050 /N870HK1 i5-7300hq or i7-7700hq+gtx1050ti / N870HP6 i7-7700hq+gtx1060 (aka Sager NP5870, Sager NP5872, Sager NP6872, XOTIC G57 Excalibur, XMG A707, Schenker Media 17, Schenker Office 17, PCSpecialist Optimus VIII) [Dimensions:418.5 x 284 x 27.4 mm (W x D x H) / Battery:48.84/62Wh / Weight: 2.85 kg with battey] Review https://www.notebookcheck.net/Nexoc-G739-Clevo-N870HK1-Laptop-Review.211640.0.html Official Thread http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/official-clevo-n870hj1-n870hk1-sager-np6870-np6872-owners-lounge.801290/ P670HP6 (P671HP6) i7-7700hq/i7-7820hk+gtx1060 6gb / P670HS (P671HS) i7-7700hq/i7-7820hk+gtx1070 (aka Sager NP8176, Sager NP8177, XOTIC G67 Raider, XMG P707, Schenker Compact 17, PCSpecialist Defiance III) [Dimensions:417x287x30mm (W x D x H) / Battery:60Wh / Weight: 3.30 kg with battey] Review https://www.kitguru.net/lifestyle/mobile/laptops/dominic-moass/pcspecialist-defiance-iii-17-3-laptop-w-gtx-1060/ https://www.notebookcheck.net/Nexoc-G734IV-Clevo-P670HS-G-Notebook-Review.197022.0.html Official Thread http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/official-clevo-p67xhp6-g-p67xhs-g-sager-np8176-8177-owners-lounge.804188/ PA70HP6 (PA71HP6) i7-7700hq/i7-7820hk+gtx1060 6gb / PA70HS (PA71HS) i7-7700hq/i7-7820hk+gtx1070 (aka One GAMING K73-7M) [Dimensions:418.5 x 287 x 24.9 mm (W x D x H) / Battery:66Wh / Weight: 3.40 kg with battey] [4xUSB 3.0, 1xmicroUSB 3.1 (Type-C) combo Thunderbolt3, 2xMiniDisplayPort, 1xHDMI, SD, SDHC, SDXC, miniSD] http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/pa71hp6-g.806028/ http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/clevo-pa70hs-g.805708/ _________17” LGA CPU__________ P775DM3 gtx1060/gtx1070/gtx1080 (MXM GPU) (aka EUROCOM Sky X7E2, Sager NP9172, XMG U717, PCSpecialist Octane III) [Dimensions:418 x 295.3 x 40.9 mm (W x D x H) / Battery:82Wh / Weight: 3,90 kg with battey] Review https://www.notebookcheck.net/Eurocom-Sky-X7E2-Clevo-P775DM3-Notebook-Review.178427.0.html http://www.techradar.com/reviews/origin-eon17-x-2016 https://www.laptopmag.com/reviews/laptops/origin-eon-17-x http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/review-by-iunlock-clevo-p775dm3-sager-np9172-ex76s-bossmonster.797357/ http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/droidmahns-clevo-p775dm3-sager-np9172-review.795901/ Official Thread http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/official-clevo-p775dm2-3-g-p75xdm2-g-sager-np9152-np9172-wingman-2-0-batman-3-0-lounge.794538/ http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/cpu-and-gpu-temperatures-clevo-p775dm2-3-g-p75xdm2-g-sager-np9152-np9172.795772/ http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/liquid-metal-traditional-paste-clevo-p775dm2-3-g-p75xdm2-g-sager-np9152-np9172.795911/ P870DM2 gtx1070 SLI (MXM GPU) MBZ170 /P870DM3 gtx1080 SLI(MXM GPU) MBZ170 (aka EUROCOM Sky X9E2, Sager NP9872, Sager NP9873, XMG U727 2016) Review https://www.notebookcheck.net/Schenker-XMG-U727-Clevo-P870DM3-G-Notebook-Review.173957.0.html https://www.kitguru.net/lifestyle/mobile/laptops/leo-waldock/pc-specialist-vortex-vi-laptop-review-6700kgtx1080-sli/ https://www.laptopmag.com/reviews/laptops/origin-eon-17-slx-10-series http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/sager-np9873-clevo-p870dm3-quick-review-by-htwingnut.795187/ http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/evoc-p870dm3-review-by-phoenix.798685/ Official Thread http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/official-clevo-p870dm2-p870dm3-sager-np9873-np9872-owners-lounge-the-phoenix-2-is-here.794530/ http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/cpu-and-gpu-temperatures-clevo-p870dm2-p870dm3-sager-np9873-np9872.795771/ P870KM-GS gtx1080 (MXM GPU) MBZ270 /P870KM gtx1070 SLI (MXM GPU) MBZ270 /P870KM1 gtx1080 SLI (MXM GPU) MBZ270 (aka EUROCOM Sky X9E3, Sager NP9876, XMG U727, PCSpecialist Vortex VI) [Dimensions:428 x 308 x 47.2 mm (W x D x H) / Battery:89Wh / Weight: 4.80kg/5,50 kg with battey] Review https://www.notebookcheck.net/Schenker-Technologies-XMG-U727-Clevo-P870KM-GS-Laptop-Review.205392.0.html https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Eurocom/Sky_X9E3/ Official Thread http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/official-clevo-p870km1-p870km1-g-sager-np9876-owners-lounge-phoenix-3-0.800081/ Do you know other clevos? These Resellers make LGA Cpu Delidding: -Obsidian PC (+ Lapping & Polish) -Schenker/XMG -Raiontech -Hidevolution -CEG Hardcore Custom -Laptopparts4less -Dreammachines Do you know other resellers? These Resellers have a custom Bios: -Obsidian PC -Eurocom There Resellers use a Prema Bios (here more infos): -Hidevolution -Avell -Azom Systems -Dreammachines -Clevocenter -Mythlogic -Lpc-digital -Xoticpc
  3. UPDATE 3: It feels like I'm nearing the final revision! I've added a PSU shroud and updated textures, as well as completed the internal framework of the cuts. I'm hoping I can convert this model to a CAD software to have it routed on a CNC, so if anyone has experience with this, I would really appreciate advice! Sketchup has served me well, but I doubt it will interface well with more professional applications. I also realized that there was no easy way to mount or clean the rad, so I opted to mount the faceplate with magnets and added a magnetic dust cover. I'm still eager to find flaws in this design before I build it, so feel free to chime in on any further improvements! ==================================================================== UPDATE 2: Incorporated a DDC pump/res instead of the apogee, redesigned loop accordingly, made better pics. ==================================================================== UPDATE: I've completed a new revision of the case with a different water cooling loop, rotated PSU, and bigger radiator (triple 140mm), pics below! I switched from a pump/res combo to a pump/CPU block combo to make the design of the loop more simple, let me know if this is unwise. ========================================================================================== So I'm in the early stages of designing a custom case for my next PC. Below are images of my current iteration, let me know what you think! Since I've never designed a case before, let me know if there are any ways that this could be improved as well. I am in the US and price isn't a major concern. The PC I'm building into this will be used for gaming/VR, streaming, editing, recording, basically everything, lol. The parts going into it will be whichever top end nvidia GPU is out in a couple years, and the highest non X SKU I7 (will be overclocked and delidded). Why am I building this? I've looked around a lot for a case that can fit perfectly in my media center and come up with nothing that satisfies my needs; to fit nicely in my home theater with minimal noise and light pollution, and without compromising on cooling or components. I also wanted something that doesn't look out of place in my media center (pictured below). Sony 65" A1E for scale My Current case is the Lian Li in the bottom center. Current questions: What material is ideal for this? I'm looking at 1/4" MDF currently, but am concerned about strength due to the small cuts being made. Could HDPE serve better? There are a lot of fine cuts needed for this design. Should I even attempt that with a router and guide, or should I go through the effort of finding someone that has a CNC router? Part list: Radiator: EK-CoolStream CE 420 Reservoir/pump: EK-XRES 140 DDC Rad fans: Noctua NF-A14 CPU block: EK-Supremacy EVO Mobo tray/PCI cage: Caselabs Merlin ATX Front I/O: Corsair carbide 240 replacement part Building material: 1/4" MDF & 1/2" MDF Top window: Tinted acrylic Vinyl wrap: 3M Matte black Ventilation grate: 3'x3' Black aluminium grate If anyone can recommend better alternatives to the parts listed above, I would really appreciate it! ============================================================================================== Keep in mind that most of the internal components are only placeholder parts that match average sizes. This currently includes mobo, GPU (and cooler), sound card, radiator, and PSU.
  4. Hi, Recently i re-did my water-cooling for my pc, no changes in hardware or software, only change was the tubing and fittings so bares no relevance to this you might think. Before i did this, i was getting 144fps at 144hz on my 1440p ROG swift monitor, for most games, most played is overwatch, so i know my average fps. After doing this, i am now unable to get above 70fps on most games, temps are fine, GPU is running the same as it would normally. I am unbelievably confused at the moment, i have updated GPU drivers and fiddled with the clock speeds, but no change. any ideas here would be of much help. Many Thanks, ShavedCloaca
  5. Hey, so I'm in the final planning stages of putting together a PC desk with three systems inside. The desk legs will contain (besides draws for tools, Stationary, etc) will house a surge protector and UPS, as well as the PSUs for two of the three systems, I primarily did this to increase space available in the main compartments. Main PC: This would be used for gaming, (hopefully in 4K) 4K media content and some light CAD and Photoshop work. Specs : AMD RYZEN Threadripper 1900x Asus Rog Zenith Extreme Motherboard 32/64 gb Ram 2 x 500gb M.2 NVMe SSDs 2 x 1TB Sata SSDs (leftover from previous build) AMD Vega 64 Graphics Card (water-cooled) Custom Hard line water loop Second PC / NAS : Used for media storage and encoding. Micro ATX motherboard AMD RYZEN 3 1200 1x 250 GB SSD boot drive 8x 2 TB HDD in Raid 6 8GB Ram Any Graphics Card, since there is no on-board graphics 10gb ethernet card (optional) can't find a motherboard with an on-board 10GB connection and quad core CPU. Third PC / Raspberry Pi 3: Raspberry Pi 3 loaded with RetroPi just for emulation. So, if anyone could give me some tips and/or advice regarding the fan layout, and any other comments. The Fans Have incoming Air flow from the Central Angled Boards, and the exhaust will be on each side of the desk. The 80mm Central fans will flow from front to back, to cool the raspberry pi and create an air curtain, seperating the compartments. There is an area on the back of the desk for cable management, however the cables in view will be presentable and neatly tied down. The Optical Drives are for the Blu-Ray Drive and for Fan Controller Hub, Card Reader Hub and USB Hub.
  6. This will be my first new build since 2010 when I got hone from Iraq. That computer was taken last year in Louisiana floods 3 days after I bought my home. So what kind of starts are best to look for in gaming rig. Atm what in looking at is the following: Cpu: threadripper 1900x cause I want clock not all those cores. Do I really need more then 8? Box: thermaltake p7 Psu: looking at thermaltake or corsair Idk which yet probably a titanium or platinum and 1000w min Gpu: vega nova if it ever releases Idk if their is a release date atm tell me if you heard of one. Monitors: prob one ultra wide 30"+ and two 24" that will be inverted on sides lookong at samung and LG Motherboard: zenith extreme x399 Ram: stuck on this either dominator 64 (4x16) and add 64 more later as upgrade or vengeance led Storage: 2 x m.2 probably Samsung 512gb Liquid cooling from ekwb I was looking at this primarily for gaming so I was looking at over clocking cpu. I'm also stuck on with as much ram as ill have do i need to put a liquid cooling block on it? Same question for m.2. I'm also making it upgradeable I.e. only using half the dimm slots to double ram later as well as add another gpu or 2 was gonna start with only 1 maybe 2. Also putting the 1900x threadripper in now and maybe later upgrading to a 1950 but not sure if ill ever do that cause for gameing I feel I wont use the cores and the base clock speed is lower. Thoughts?
  7. I am in the process of creating custom sleeved cables for my evga 850 g2 and I have been searching everywhere for the answer to this question with no success. Some of the double wires for the 24 pin power connector are 18 awg and some are 22. I thought I remember at some point reading something about the psu using the difference in resistance of the two differently gauged wires to monitor/regulate voltage. Will using different or even all the same gauge wire affect this? I have a ton of 16 gauge wire and just ordered some 18 and 22 just in case I need to replicate it exactly however I'd rather use the thicker gauge wire if it will be better (even just theoretically I know the difference probably wouldn't be noticeable in real world performance).
  8. Hello, So i'm looking to do a first time build, and just looking for some advice on what i've picked out and if certain parts are worth it for what i intend on doing. I'm in the UK, price wise i'd like to keep it max £2000, can go slightly over, but currently the build is coming in at just under £2000. The system will mainly be used for 3D artwork so, Maya/Max/Modo, Zbrush, Unreal/Unity, Substance Painter/Designer, Photoshop etc. It will get used for gaming every now and again but i doubt i'll be looking to play in 4k or anything like that, not anytime soon anyway. The reason for the 1080ti is due to Substance relying on graphics memory, so the more the better. I have windows 10 on my current machine so i haven't included that in my build, i need to double check i can transfer it over. Link to the build - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/2GgXcc I've had mentioned to me i might be better off going for faster RAM as Ryzen will benefit from that, was looking at possibly moving up to Corsair Vengeance (2x16gb) 3000mhz, which will only add about £30 to the overall price. I don't think i intend on doing much overclocking with it, outside of the CPU as it seems agreed that it makes more sense to go for the Ryzen 7 1700 and then overclock that over going for the 1700x or 1800x. (Correct me if i'm wrong on that one). Also wondering from a motherboard point of view if the Crosshair VI Hero is worth it for what i want to do, or if i'm better of possibly even going to a B350 board. Or should i stick with the Crosshair VI but get the version with inbuilt Wifi and drop the dedicated card. Thanks in advance.
  9. Alrighty, currently I'm using a 2012 (I believe) BlackWidow Ultimate, I've had it for like 3-4 years at this point, and I'm tired of the size and aesthetic of it. It's way too big for my current desk and my plans for it, so I'm looking at 60 percent form factor, I won't miss the num pad or arrows. My problem here is finding everything I want in a keyboard. I'm prepared to build my own if I can get some help sourcing in stock parts that are compatible, not scared of solder, just scared of waiting for shipping too long, I'm incredibly impatient and I hate waiting on group buys and pre-orders. Budget is up to $150~ without keycaps 60 percent layout, RGB out of the box or a compatible PCB if building my own Pink/Purple Case, incline is workable with none or a lot, my hands can adapt to either, at least a bit would be best though. (material not majorly important, aluminum or translucent plastic/acrylic preferred though for sure), Cherry/similar Red switches won't be hard to find, hopefully on one of the same sites I'm already ordering from, and I can source my own keycaps easily enough. Stable wireless compatibility if possible with RGB, if not, that's fine, I can live with wired, I'd prefer pretty over wireless. Building my own seems like it's going to be the only way to get what I want out of this and I love taking on new projects.. I'm so sick of looking at this black keyboard with blue leds and the numpad/macro/F1-12 keys that gather dust, I want a keyboard that I smile at when I sit down, help me get there? I just don't want to order a bunch of stuff to find out it's overpriced or incompatible with something else I've gotten. Also suggestions of a good cheap soldering iron would be nice too, I haven't owned one in years and years. <3
  10. Hey computer fans, I have a build for you to verify! I am in the U.K (£, GBP) £1 = $1.3 US I am currently getting my build for my life here at my mums sorted out and I am working on a tight budget (£500 max, as cheap as possible). I have worked out a great (I think) build, however, as it is my first time and I'm not exactly the worlds best expert, I may have tripped up. I would like to know if: A) all parts are compatible (I think they are) B) all parts are optimal / best for the job C) if I have found the best prices for all parts D) are all cables there (such as PSU or FanHub) E) are there any better solutions at the same price F) would thermals be an issue (CPU StuckCooler in use) I have looked around for a while for best prices, but there still may be some better ones out there. Also, in terms of graphics card, I know the RX460 (AMD) is more budget friendly but I have watched some videos and the 1050 is worth the little extra in my opinion. I'm only looking to play things like CS:GO, Rocket League and maybe a bit of Planet Coaster so no spectacular requirements are an issue. I have all peripherals so I do not need any more. My monitor is 1080p. So, for the bit you've all been waiting for: the build: (Most were free shipping, so don't worry about that) TT Versa H15 M-ATX Case-------------------£34.98 GIGABYTE GA-H110-DDR3-----------------£51.57(IncDelvery) Core i3-7100-------------------------------------£99.90 350W VS Series Corsair ATX PSU---------£32.97 GTX 1050 GIGABYTE OC 2GB-------------£108.47 QUMOX 8GB DDR3 1600 RAM-------------£46.00 TP-LINK PCIe Wireless Card----------------£11.99 Toshiba P300 1TB 3.5" HDD----------------£37.97 Mr HIGHTECH Win10 Home----------------£9.99 GameMax Galeforce Fans x4---------------£15.96 Phanteks ph-pwhub Fan hub----------------£17.99 ______________________________________Total 14 Items-------------------------------------£467.79 The places I found them from are below in identicle order: http://www.ebuyer.com/711134-thermaltake-versa-h15-m-atx-gaming-case-with-side-window-usb3-black-interior-ca-1d4-00s1wn-00 http://www.pcupgrade.co.uk/productdetails.asp?productid=36178&categoryid=728 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Intel-Core-I3-7100-3-90-GHz/dp/B01NCESRJX https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CP-9020095-UK-VS350-Power-Supply/dp/B009X1KGXS http://www.ebuyer.com/761963-gigabyte-nvidia-geforce-gtx-1050-oc-2gb-gv-n1050oc-2gd https://www.amazon.co.uk/QUMOX-PC3-12800-Desktop-Memory-240pin/dp/B00TGPSHI2/ref=sr_1_46?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1502139069&sr=1-46&keywords=1600+8gb+DDR3 http://www.currys.co.uk/gbuk/computing-accessories/components-upgrades/interface-cards/tp-link-tl-wn881nd-pcie-wireless-card-10119361-pdt.html http://www.ebuyer.com/726222-toshiba-p300-1tb-3-5-sata-high-performance-hard-drive-oem-hdwd110uzsva https://www.mrhightech.net/operating-systems/3571-microsoft-windows-10-home-0885370909784.html https://www.amazon.co.uk/Computer-Silent-120mm-Galeforce-iCHOOSE/dp/B01FXJBH72?th=1 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Phanteks-PH-PWHUB_01-system-fan-hub/dp/B00M0R05WE It may not be the most interesting build or forum post, but feel free to brag about your builds and give me any criticism, constructive or not. Im ready for your potato and toaster comments. Just note, I have a not-so-budget computer at my dads Fire Away!
  11. Hi! I'm looking to upgrade my PC with some custom extensions, and have searched high and low for a coupon to get rid of that $20 shipping. Has anyone got a code they can pass along? I would really appreciate it, and if it knocks out the shipping I'll send a few steam keys your way to show I appreciate it. Thank you!!
  12. Hello LTT forums, this is my first post for my first ever PC build, not great at being wordy, getting down to business: I am building a high end mini Itx enthusiast PC, not sure what it will be used for yet, just kind of enjoying spending my life's savings building this cool little machine. The whole point of this build is to make a powerful water cooled overclock-able system in the smallest and/or coolest and/or most unique form factor that I can make. I will be using a combination of stainless brush finished steel and borosilicate (pyrex) glass. I have a few different design options in mind, but still have no written/drawn designs yet as I don't yet have my water cooling loop, and want to visually see how everything fits together, plus procrastination. If anyone has any input, tips, design theme ideas, or any suggestions, I would be most obliged. Thanks for reading, mkeras The 'interesting' parts. Since I took the picture a couple days ago I have changed the 16gb 2400Mhz vengeance lpx RAM to G-Skill 32gb 3200Mhz RAM. CPU air cooler was just to test the system before water cooling it. Made the test bench myself out of UHMW plastic using water jet machine and undersizing the holes slightly to be able to put screws in without having to tap them, turned out fairly well for the amount of effort put into it %85 complete part list, still have to decide on some minor parts such as extra radiator and fans, fittings, etc. https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/D9mwQV
  13. Sup folks, Yesterday I made a post about my LED Ford emblem which I'd like to put in my case. The emblem requires +/- 12 volts to work, so I decided to connect it directly to a molex-connector, as I believe the yellow wire is used for 12 volt output (or so I read on the interwebs), so I drew this astonishing schematic before assembling it, and asking you - yes, you! - to check whether this is correct or whether I'm going to break the emblem like a Windsor engine block (Ford joke, haha). Thanks in advance, Cheers TJ PS, I'm a noob at wiring so this might seem like the stupidest request ever, but I'd just want to be sure before I do it, if it means preventing an accidental camp fire PPS, I suck at jokes. Here are the schematic and a puppy
  14. BUILD IN PROGRESS The build is still in progress. More pictures and information will follow soon. PREAMBLE I always wanted to build a white and green themed PC, which was somewhat of a problem at the beginning due to the lack of white and green components and also low budget. But now I can finally tackle this problem. I won't talk much around this as you're probably more interested into some pictures and specs. If you have any questions feel free to ask, I'll answer them as soon as I can. If there are enough questions comming up I'll add a QA-segment to the post. SPECIFICATIONS Intel Core i7 - 6700K ASUS Z170 Sabertooth S Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR4 2800Mhz 16GB (4x4) EVGA GTX 1080 ACX 3.0 Corsair AX760i Power Supply CableMod Custom Length PSU Cables Paracord White Samsung 850 EVO SSD 1TB Samsung 850 EVO SSD 1TB Samsung 850 EVO SSD 128GB NZXT AER RGB120 Fan NZXT AER RGB120 Fan NZXT AER RGB120 Fan EKWB CoolStream SE360 Radiator EKWB Supremecy EVO Original CSQ CPU Waterblock XSPC Razor GTX 1080 GPU Waterblock XSPC Razor GTX 1080 Backplate Monsoon Hardline Hardlock Fittings (Replaced with EKWB EK-HDC 12mm Fittings) Monsoon Hardline Tubing 10/13mm (Replaced with Bitspower Crystal Link 12/10mm Tubing) Primochill CTR Phase 2 120mm Laing D5 Reservoir + Pump Combo Mayhems Ultra Pure H2O Liquid Mayhems Emerald Green Dye PICTURES More comming soon. Estimated build day: June 15th Update June 21st After having multiple problems with my pump and monsoon fittings I can finally present to you a first sneek peek. I still have to add the green dye and make some slight modifikations, but it is almost done! Excuse the bad picture quality - I'm just happy that I finally got there.
  15. This is my take on a DIY desk PC. Hope it's okay to post a YT video... it was a lot of work to make both - the desk and the build log video
  16. Edit: I've made an order on Etsy. Let's see how it goes. I need some decals/stickers for a planned build. Does anyone know where I can get some affordable custom stickers/decals printed and cut? I'm looking to print a sheet of custom shapes and the cheapest option I've found so far is a minimum of $75. Here's what I'm trying to print/cut in 8.5" x 11"
  17. If you have ever wanted to paint something, whether it be a case, keyboard, game controller, or an accent piece to a build. There is a proper method to do it. I know what you are probably thinking. "Linus already did a video on painting." And to that you are correct. But Linus could not have been any more wrong with his method. Plastidip is great if you need to RMA your part as you can peel it off, but any good paintjob should not be using plastidip. There are simply too many flaws with it, and yes, I have used it. It peeled off of my keyboard in less than a month. If you are going to come here to argue "Plastidip master race" than please go start your own post. I have been modding and painting PC parts for over 5 years. I have done most of my keyboards, some PC cases, graphics cards, motherboards, video game controllers, household items, and furniture. Disclaimer: you can void the warranty if you paint a part of your PC. You can also ruin your part if you do not do things carefully. PAINTING GUIDELINES 1.Visualize The first thing to do when painting is to not paint. Know what you want to do. Do you want a glossy ar flat finish? Textured or smooth? What color? How many colors? Any patterns? This first step is dynamic. Come back here often as you do your research, as you will probably change your mind as you begin to see and realize more things.1. Acquaint Yourself Find out what type of materials you are working with. Is it plastic or metal? What type of plastic or metal? Paints that work well with ABS may not work well with Vinyl.2. Research You want to do research on multiple topics. Research components that have a similar paint job. It could be as simple as typing into Google "Painted Yellow PC Case." This will help you revise and finalize what you want to do with your part as you see what other people have done.Next you want to start to do research on paints. Things get really difficult here. The paints that appear most frequently on Google searches are the ones that usually get the worst reviews. Automotive and Hobby forums are usually the best places to find good paints. Read reviews in multiple places. Paints that have a good rep on Amazon may be the laughingstock of a reputable hobby forum. (Beats anyone?) A good method is BRAND + APPLICATION + SURFACE; "Rustoleum Primer for Vinyl" Usually when doing research, you will find out various painting techniques and tricks.Look at videos that show proper painting technique for your paints. Most paints just require lots of light even layers. But this may be different if you want a pattern or have a special paint. You need to make sure to paint in a gentle sweeping motion, say left-to-right and back in zig-zags, and don't spray over a single spot for longer than a moment or you will spray too much! It is better to spray too little and go over a bare spot a few times again later than to spray too much. Spraying too much results in sagging and inhibits proper curing.Research Proper Sanding techniques of your objects material. If you sand an item wrong, you risk making hard to cover up marks. More on this below.Go back to your original idea and revise it if you feel you want or need to.Make sure you have done research for all layers of paint you need. (More details later). 2.5. MAKE SURE YOUR PAINT WORKS. Some paints are not meant to be exposed to sunlight like florescent paints. Some may not work without certain primers or basecoats. Some are not very durable; some are thin, runny, not supposed to be heated, and don't cover well; some depend on the color of paint under them to influence the outcome (chameleon paints), etc. This is all part of your research. Make sure you have the right paint for the right job.3. Paints Paints. Make sure you read / research carefully which paints you are getting. Their composition varies, and they usually fall into these common categories for rattle cans: acrylic lacquers and oil enamels for general purpose rattle cans. There are also other varieties of paint which are intended for automotive painting and are generally more expensive: acrylic enamels (enamels are harder than lacquers), acrylic urethanes (1K (1-stage) and 2K (2-stage, multiple components)) and they usually require more preparation, such as an adhesion promoter, an epoxy primer for urethane paints, an appropriate urethane top clear coat, etc. Urethane paints are also dramatically more toxic, and you must have good ventilation while spraying as well as wear proper full-face masks and protective clothing. Anyway, for most people here, acrylic lacquers and oil enamels will be the paints of choice, as they come in easily accessible rattle cans and don't cost a mini fortune. Note that acrylic lacquers and oil enamels are not really rubbing and finger-oil-proof. So say if you paint a mouse and clear coat it and all that, you will still see the paint will begin to wear off in a month or so over the click buttons. For touch-proof frequently handled surfaces, you need to go with more professional paints, such as 2K urethane paints. But you may be able to get away with something cheaper, depending on its use. I use Oil Enamel on a lot of my keyboards. The edges really don't get touched often enough for rapid wear. Oil enamel can be layered over oil enamel and over acrylic lacquer. Acrylic lacquer SHOULD NOT be layered over oil enamel. This applies to colors and clear coats and is important for proper curing as well as avoiding dissolving and lifting your base layers when spraying new paint over them.Primers/Promoters. If your paint does not come premixed with a primer, it's a safe assumption that you should get a primer or some sort of an adhesion promoter just in case. Get a complimentary color primer. If you are looking for a darker color, get a black or grey primer. If you are looking for a light color get a light grey or white primer. If you wish to retain some of the color of your part, get a clear primer.Fillers. If you have an uneven surface and you cannot sand it, get a filler. They really do help to make an uneven surface smooth enough so it may be painted over. Make sure you sand or scuff it when you are done.Clear Coats. For most paints, I would STRONGLY recommend a clear coat. Clears are generally harder than colors, and they help protect your work against scuffs, minor scratches, and dullness. For example, you will have a much harder time scratching a clear-coated paint job with your fingernail than if you just left it with color paint and no clear coat. Clears come in different types: gloss, satin, matte, as well as mixed with some pearl or iridescent particles for a desired effect. Gloss clear is the most transparent clear you will get. It is, understandably, glossy and generally requires some polishing work afterwards. Matte clears generally contain a sort of a milky substance that's part of what makes them matte, and you will unfortunately see your matte clears if you spray them over dark gloss base color paints. So say if you're spraying gloss brown, going over it with a matte clear is not a good idea. You want to look for a matte brown and then follow with a very fine veil of matte clear. Otherwise, gloss clear over gloss brown will look best. You can spray matte clear over LIGHT-toned gloss colors (like over light beige) to end up with a semi-matte textured effect, sort of like old school beige computer plastics. You can spray clear right after you paint your colored paint--if you're happy with how that came out. If you wait more than an hour in between, you should wait the recommended 24-48 hours (or even longer) before adding clear coats to ensure proper curing. Spraying gloss clear paint too much too fast can result in yellowing. If you see any yellowing in some crevice where clear paint has accumulated--don't panic! Generally (not always) the yellow tint goes away after the paint cures in a day or two. Once you do coat your work with a clear, it will be significantly more difficult to touch up. So do all the corrections before you spray your clear. 4. Pre-painting Preparation Prepare a workspace. Painting with spray paint is not the neatest of jobs. Clouds of tiny aerosol particles of paint will form around the area you're spraying, and those clouds are 1. not exactly healthy to breathe, 2. can cover you and your clothes with paint over time, and 3. will paint the surroundings. Use plenty of cardboard to cover your work area and preferably spray outside or in a well-ventilated garage. Stay away from areas with lots of particles in the air or dust as they can show on a painting job and prevent the paint from settling on the material.Make sure you read the instructions on the can.They often contain crucial info. Including how long to wait in-between coats and other important info. If it says to wait at least 5 minutes between consecutive coats--please wait at least 5 minutes. Paints must cure for proper hardness and adhesion, and improper application can stall or prevent proper curing, causing your paint to lift, crack, peel off, etc. Painting in high humidity also has adverse effects on curing as well as the actual process of spraying an aerosol cloud of paint particles onto a surface. You may end up with a cloudy uneven finish.Surface Preparation/Sanding. You want to strip your surface down to the base plastic. Remove any coating, including paint, rubber, plastic film, or clear coats. This is done for adhesion purposes, it will not matter if you have the right paint, if you are applying it to the wrong surface. Good quality sandpaper is really important, and make sure to sand wet surfaces. Water helps to rinse away any particles, prevents the object from warping, and provides a more consistent sanding job. Clean down to the bare material (plastic, metal, etc). While sanding, let the paper do the work, if you are too aggressive you can make large scuff marks that are tough to cover up. Gentle circular motions are good. Avoid sanding corners and angled surfaces too much. Once you have sanded your piece to the bare material or your piece is all that material to start with, use steel wool or fine sandpaper to scuff the surface. Paint loves to adhere to microscopic scratches. Never paint mirror-smooth surfaces, always scuff them a bit. Wash with detergent and water, rinse really REALLY well, allow to dry COMPLETELY, then go over the surface with a fiber cloth soaked in alcohol. Get a cloth that removes lint and dust--any dust particles left on the surface tend to come through the paint. If you have any grease on it, and you cannot remove it, use a professional grease and tar remover (can be gotten for under $10 in auto supply shops).5. Test Painting What you DON'T want to do at this point is to hop right in and start painting your piece. You don't want to commit all that time to find out you have a bad can of paint halfway through painting your piece and risk scraping it, or redoing everything, including all that tedious sanding.Guidelines to test painting. REMEMBER TO PAINT LOTS OF SAMPLES OF WHAT YOU PLAN ON PAINTING. Use scrap metal, plastic, old gaming controllers, plastic sporks and other utensils, really anything that will give you a good idea of how your paints and primers and whatever else you are using will1. work together 2. how long it will take for them to dry 3. if you will like the final result or whether you need to change something 4. how durable the paint will be (give it a good few days to cure) When Beginning to Paint. Each time you haven't used a particular can of paint for a while (or it's the first time you use it), after shaking the can well, spray elsewhere other than on your project to get the flow of the paint going properly. Then spray onto some scrap cardboard or plastic to see if the paint comes out evenly. Sometimes a nozzle is bad, and you'll get paint running down the can onto your fingers. Or worse, you will get larger droplets of paint onto your project, that will look like small splatters among the finely sprayed paint. Cleaning the nozzle with a paper towel or an alcohol-soaked cotton ball periodically helps, if it's one of those poorly-spraying ones. Sometimes it's best to take off the nozzle entirely and give it a good cleaning with some alcohol. If any paint has dried to cover the hole of the nozzle, you will get an uneven spray. It can even just be a poorly-designed nozzle to start with, and you should use something else. Furthermore, some paint starts out with small caked bits that end up shooting out of the nozzle and sticking to your painted surface. It looks terrible--like small particles of dirt or lint trapped under paint. Usually shaking well and regularly is great to help with this, but some paint is just bad, and you won't be able to get rid of those little balled up congealed pieces. Better to scrap that can and get a new one. This is another reason for painting onto something unimportant first. Imagine your surface is all nicely prepared and already painted with a few layers of paint. Then you come back, spray some more... and get a bunch of tiny pieces of gunk onto the surface.6. Painting You made it. All that time and effort. You are ready to do a really good paintjob. Light Layers. Unless you really know what you are doing. (If you are reading this guide, you probably don't). Make lots of really light layers. Things will look poor at first, you will have this awful blend of colors, but as you add more layers things will look better. Don't worry too much if your layers are inconsistent. It is worse to hover over an area for too long, rather than not enough. The color will even itself out the more layers you add. Make sure you are waiting the proper time in-between layers. Apply enough layers of primer, paint, and clearcoat. Your research or the can should help you with this.Order. If you haven't figured it out yet, the order to paint is 1. Sand/Scuff 2. Primer 3. Paint 4. ClearcoatPatterns. Patterns work differently than most paintjobs. ALOT of experimentation and research must be done. You have to decide your base color and accent colors. How you are going to layer them, and what you are going to use to create the pattern. Painters tape and various household items are your best friends. I cannot give you specific guidelines as the layering varies per pattern. Google and your experimentation sporks are your best friends.Curing and Waiting. Unfortunately there will be a lot of waiting. Curing is one of the most important things you can do for your boards. But it tests your patience alot. All you want to do is get your hands on your fancy new keyboard, but if you start playing with it prematurely that paintjob is meaningless, as you probably just screwed up your settling paint. Read your paintcan label and it will tell you when it is safe to start handling the board. This waiting period is usually 24-48 hrs.7. Post Painting Polishing. Polishing the clear coat is what gives that car-like shiny finish to paints without enough metal flake. I recommend you do a bit of research yourself, as polishing can get tricky. Surface preparation extremely for a smooth finish. Wet-sand the fully dry clear coat with 1500-, then 2000-grit sand paper. Make really light circles, and avoid sanding edges too much. I know what you are thinking, dosent sanding destroy all that work we just did? And the answer is yes, if you are not careful. This is very high grit sand paper, and it is used to make a better surface for polishing in this case. This WILL make the surface look dull, but the polish will fix that. Wash with warm soapy water and inspect to see if you need to do any more sanding. Once you are satisfied, continue to a rubbing compound. Follow with a rubbing compound (finer than sand paper) rub with cotton balls or a special high density foam sponge. Finish with a polishing compound (the finest last stage of reducing dullness and swirls). Once you are done you should have a really nice and shiny finish on your keyboard.A Few Tips on Polishing. MORE POLISHING IS NOT THE ANSWER. This will not make your surface any shinier. You could do too much and end up with on uneven looking cover. If you find you have done a poor job, the wrong approach is to re sand and polish. You will destroy your clear coat and paint, and have to re-sand and repaint EVERYTHING. Your sandpaper and rubbing compound can rub through your clear coat and paint. Be careful to not remove too much clear coat. The proper way to re-polish if you have done a bad job is to wash the surface and re-apply a clear coat. If you know you are going to be doing any polishing, make sure you apply a thick clear coat. This is tricky because applying too much clear coat can turn it milky and make the surface look dull. The best solution is to use your handy Practice Sporks. PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE. If you are using an oil-based enamel where you do a gloss clear coat. There are cases where you might be doing a matte clear coat or no clear coat at all, depending on your desired texture and look. In those cases, you may only need to use a rubbing compound lightly, followed by a polishing compound. Or nothing at all, just a rub with a damp lint-free cloth. As for how long you should polish, there's no right answer. You won't get a perfect finish anyway, because you're limited by spray cans and lots of curves on surfaces such as a keyboard case, so just do what you think looks good and don't worry about it too much. The more clear coat you put on, the thicker the clear layer is, and the more you can sand off with very fine sandpaper (2000-grit) to smooth out the surface to mirror shine. Problem is that too much clear coat can be bad: if you spray too much and too soon, it can turn milky, can become dull, or can even give your paint a yellow shade (depends on clear coat, some are better quality and resist yellowing better, but nonetheless, if you spray too thick, most likely you will see the yellowing). For computer cases, you can safely do multiple thicker clear coats and sand them later, as surfaces are generally flat and extended, which makes polishing easier. For keyboards, I'd stick with a few thin layers of clear coat. There's a difference between a wet shine look from a thinner clear coat and a wet shine look from a too-thick clear coat where you spray too much at once, and the paint is all runny. As you practice, you will get a feel for "too much" for a single layer. Remember that you don't want too much paint in total, as it will inhibit the curing process. Just do the best you can and stop when you can't remove any more.Upkeep and Maintenance. If you did a good job, your paint job will last you a long time. If and when that starts to deteriorate, chip, or peel. It is most likely time to redo everything anyway. By the time you fix one problem, another will arise. For everyone else, generally I would advise redoing a chipping or peeling paint job, but if it is fading, I recommend to just do touch ups. Start by sanding off the clear coat, and a tiny bit of the paint. Repaint, until you have an even surface, or until you use enough layers. Then re-apply the clear coat. If you just have a chipped corner, a quick fix would be to use model or hobby brush paints. It won't look great, but better than chipped.Re-painting. Sand. Rinse. and Repeat. GOOD LUCK AND HAPPY PAINTING!!! Please feel free to leave any compliments, criticism, or anything that you think needs revision. Please Like this guide and share it. I want to give alot of credit to Photoelectric at Geekhack who really catalyzed my painting hobby.
  18. Hello! For my new desktop that I'm going to build, I was going to put a custom loop in it. I used EKWB's custom loop config. and got an interesting result. The loop has 4 fans on a radiator that holds the length of 2. I've seen configurations that hold 2 fans on either side, but wouldn't that cause a space issue? Also what are the benefits of having "stacked fans"? Parts --- https://pcpartpicker.com/list/YTKxJV Config. (Loop) --- https://www.ekwb.com/custom-loop-configurator/shared/oW597569c6c797a
  19. I was watching this video And on 6:44 We can see a really cool and useful little keypad, that a guy did by himself. I think that'll besuper useful for people with super-small keyboards without macro keys and, maybe, video-editors. I found some resembling keypads, but they're priced like a whole cheap mechanical keayboard, but with only 8 keys .-. I know where to buy switches and a plate, but how to do other stuff like programming and circuit (maybe?) Sorry for my bad English
  20. I decided with my whole thought to build my own system to do the case too given yes this could be difficult but hey why not make it mine given I have no idea where to start but im thinking something along the lines of an L shape any help thoughts or suggestions are much appreciated i apologize for the lack luster details and dare i say format but i had this idea spring to mind as i about fell to sleep and jumped to the forums to get some help i look forward to what you guys come up with
  21. Ok, so I tweeted at Luke saying that the "cringe" build would be awesome (as refrenced on WAN Show). So show me the worst components you can dig up!!!! The worse the better! SHOW LINUS WE WANT DA CRIINGE!!!!
  22. I'm I the process of building a new "in-desk" pc with a glass top. I'm currently using an old H100i, but it is dying (getting 40+ idle temps). I want to do my first "custom" loop. I will be cooling the cpu (4770k), and eventually the gpu once I upgrade it (after the launch of volta). The new aluminum loop kit is SUBSTANTIAL savings over the copper variants, but I know with that savings I'll be sacrificing things as well. I've heard... mixed things about the pumps included in both copper and aluminum kits, but once you start going custom custom the price point jumps considerably again. I don't need any fans, however, I have plenty of noctua ones I plan to use and am going to pick up some LED ones as well for a push-pull setup. These are my potential setups. You could possibly skip this part if you already know your opinion. A240: 280mm radiator for intake, included 240mm radiator for outtake. 280mm aluminum radiator options are a little... shady, but I have options like this and this. Also, this one by thermaltake is more expensive, but is also made of aluminum if the others are bad. Price: Kit ($160) + Radiator ($35-$70) = $195-$230 Pros: Kit = easy, entire price of ~200$ (wow!) Cons: Cheap tubing, pump (?), all future upgrades must be aluminum, don't need the fans L360: Included 360mm radiator for intake, 280mm radiator for outtake. Price: Kit ($260) + 280mm radiator ($76) = $336 Pros: Kit = easy, 120mm more radiator surface area than the A240, better tubing, copper upgrades Cons: Pump (?), >100$ more expensive than the A240, don't need the fans Custom: This $123 or this $100 480mm radiator as intake. Does the 60mm vs 38mm thickness make much of a difference at this size? Then 280mm radiator ($76) as outtake. $164 for a D5 pump, and $125 for a cpu waterblock. And I STILL have to worry about tubing, fittings, etc. Price: AT LEAST $465 Pros: Custom, awesome, great pump, 120mm more radiator surface area than the L360, 240mm more radiator surface area than the A240 Cons: PRICE Just looking for peoples opinions. Price is definitely a factor at the moment, and I'm really just wondering if I can get away with an A240. If not, going with an L360 and upgrading the pump later is always an option as well.
  23. To begin with, I'd say, I fu**** up a bit, I killed the SD card with all the footage of my build while it was being built. But Im gonna document it as good as possible. It all started with ordering around 8500€ worth of "Gear", a new Monitor, the Caselabs Case, PCParts, Watercooling stuff. Here a "quick" parts list for ya guys: "Outside" things: CaseLabs Magnum SMA8 in Black (Super-Duper expensive cause I live in Europe ) Cablemod RGB Led Strips Some 32" Philips TV Asus PG34Q 21:9 3440x1440 G-Sync Monitor An XBox 360 I never use A Blue Ray player I also never use XBox One Wireless controller Corsair M65 Mouse Corsair K95 Keyboard Corsair Polaris Mousepad Corsair Mousemat Corsair Void Wireless Audio Technica AT2020 USB+ Some Logitech Sound system DXRacer LEDXRacer RGB Chair in Green, yeah not only Linus has a RGB chair! PC Parts: Asus Rampage 5 Edition 10 Core i7 6800k 32GB Corsair Vengeance Ram 2x GTX 1080Ti in SLI EVGA Supernova 1600 T2 (It was the only one that was still avalible over here, sadly i noticed this AFTER I ordered the cables and had to pay the fee) Samsung 960Pro M.2 SSD (512GB) Asus RGB SLI HB Bridge Samsung 850 EVO SSD (1TB) 3TB WD Blue (For Data) Sleeved Cablemod Cables Watercooling Stuff: 1x EK Supremacy EVO x99 2x EK Monarch Ram x4 8x EK Ram Monarch Module 2x EK FC1080 GTX Ti 2x EK X3 Res (250ml) 2x EK D5 Sleeved Pump with clear top 2x EK Coolstream PE 480 1x EK Coolstream PE 240 14x Corsair SP120 RGB Fans 1x NZXT Grid+ V2 Mayhems Pastel with Green additive A whole buch of Fittings and tubing
  24. Hey guys, I've been watchting Linus for years and years, I thought to myself that the LTT forum would be the best place to ask for advice. What I'm most concerned about it the watercooling portion of the PC as I am well versed in building PC's, just not with custom loops. If you have anything to add or change when it comes to the system, please comment your suggestions ( Fans, control units, lighting, anythig really ) Goal of this build is my ultimate gaming machine, I want it to last a long time and I want it to be as quiet as possible so any tips in making the PC quiet are very welcome The components so far: Lian Li O9WX Cube ASUS Prime x299-Deluxe Intel Core i9-7900X ASUS GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Founders Edition with EKWB pre installed 8x8GB Trident Z RGB DDR4-3200 Corsair Professional Platinum Series AX1200I 1x Samsung 960 EVO NVMe SSD M.2 500GB 1x ASUS Hyper M.2 X4 PCI-E Adapter Card 2x Samsung 850 EVO SSD 1TB 4x WD Red SATA 6G 3TB Watercooling components so far: EK-Supremacy EVO Nickel CPU Block Aquastream XT USB 12V Pump Ultra Version EK-CoolStream PE 360 Radiator I've not decided if I'm going to use hard tubing or flexible tubing. I also don't have a reservoir picked yet, as I'm unsure of how big it should be and where I should place it in the case. Also I'm unclear about the following points: -How diffirent materials in the WC loop work together (corosion) -How many diffirent fittings I will need -If a single 3x120 rad is enough to cool the PC, as I'm planing to OC the CPU -What fluids or additives I should use in my loop -How and where to mount the pump and the reservoir -How to fill the system and get the air out -The route the tubing will take and how it will change depending on the type of tubing used -How long can the liquid stay in the loop without being changed -Maintenance I need to do when it comes to the WC loop Also sry if my English isn't the best as I'm German. Thanks for taking the time to read and possibly respond to this post.
  25. Hey guys so the best BTX mobo i can find is out of a HP 8100 elite which is perfect for my needs in my Dell dimension 3100 sleeper pc (going from a q6600 8gb ddr2, dell 755 mobo to hp lga 1156 8gb ddr3 i7) but the problem is HP are knobs about their psu's and made it so the board takes a 6 pin and a tiny 4 pin for powering their mobo's. now i know there used to be adapters for sale as seen in this video: that shows one of the adapters being used the problem is noone sells them i cant find them anywhere all i can find are for HP 7220 and 7230 which look exactly the same to the 8100 connector so what im wondering is does anybody know the 7220/7230 pinout so i can compare it to the 8100 pinout which i found a picture explaining the piinout so i can see if the 7220 adapter will work or if im gonna have to make my own. cheers guys