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  • A random PC thoughts blog
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  1. Hi, I've been seeing a few posts about serial vs. parallel watercooling, and I understand the basic idea behind them, being that with serial the second heat-producing item in the loop gets just boned and can't dissipate enough heat through the block. However, I was thinking, If I, say theoretically were to run the output of a gpu (like a 3080) after it's been heated, through something like a 240mm rad, then ran the rad back to the cpu, then through another rad (like a 360mm), would this be better than serial? (or maybe even parallel?) Something like this: Starting at the gpu, I could run it up, like this: Then, It could go UP to the top rad: Then, back down to the cpu: and finally back to the front rad, where it would be cooled "all the way" back down and go back to the gpu Would this work? or, at least be better than serial? Will be posting pictures when this is done, but as it's mostly air-cooled right now, it can wait. This was the main problem: 100 degrees C, not even hitting TDP. grahh. WITH a 240mm cooler. 13th gen go crazy.
  2. The water in my loop just bearly makes it around and just drips in the reservoir. I have no idea why it used to work before i was just replacing the water in it. I tought it was a clogged up cpu block causing the problem but no i replaced it and removed it from the loop still no difference. Normally the pictures are in the right order soo you can follow the loop.
  3. Sup... first post. Be gentle ? I got into watercooling quite some time ago. Got my first WCed rig (8800GT SLI) way back in uhm... 2006 and ever since i never had any air cooler on my CPUs / GPUs ? Currently sitting on an i7-2600K (quite OK unit >>5GHz @ 4C/8T ezy pzy<<, got it from an overclocker from XtremeSystems who got it to 5.5GHz on LN2) and a GTX780 both sitting on MSI P67a-GD65 with 8GB RAM and bunch of drives. All in a BitFenix Shinobi XL with Thermochill PA360.3 (any old timer still remembers it and how much cooling potential it has?) and an EK 240 thick radiator (don't remember the exact model), XSPC RASA slapped on CPU and FC EK waterblock on a GPU. Oh... and i still have unused and boxed HW Labs BlackIce SR-1 420 radiator that will be waiting patiently for MiniMe to grow up and get hooked on WCing ? So to the point: I am about to move in into new house i have build over the last 2 years in Poland. It has floor heating on its 230m2 and has one peculiar extra loop - 35m of a floor heating tube with an inlet and outlet under the to-be-build-desk where my PC in my man-cave will be placed ? you know where am i going with this? 1) heat capacity of concrete floor is quite high (thickness in my case varies from 6 to 9cm) and at the same time inertia of heat flow is rather low. In other words: it will heat up slowly and will cool down slowly. 2) floor will never be heated above 28°C so i can assume that's gonna be my max ambient temperature. It is more likely, considering my house is very energy efficient, floor temperature will not pass 25°C. Cooling liquid will always be warmer than that and there will be no situation when loop is being heated by the floor - it will be always other way around. So for those who don't know about floor heating it is done like that (perspective of this pic is really distorted as windows on left and right are perpendicular to each other): And the additional loop i have placed in a very last literally hour before the floor was poured. And as of now the loop ends look similar like on the pic below (man-cave is already tiled and the walls are finished with plaster and painting): As you can see i know exactly what i am doing with this. What i need is some advice on WC gear as i have stopped following the market / trends many years ago (family, work, lack of time for gaming etc.the usual story...): - circulation pump: i doubt regular WC pump will be able to handle such hydraulic resistance (tube has ID=12mm and 35m length). So i will be getting a pump used typically in heating systems. Is it the right route? You have other suggestions? - i need to figure out quick-disconnects and want to build some sort of a manifold to be able to quickly attach / detach PC without bleeding air into the loop. Preferably at the desk's top close to the PC case. If the loop is not efficient enough i want to be able to quickly add radiators at my will. Any advice how to approach this aspect of a system? - what sort of reservoir do i need? The volume of liquid in a tube alone gonna be pi*r^2*L = 3.1415*0.006m^2*35m = ca 4L, so really little. But considerably a lot in terms of WC systems (BIG tube reservoir for PC is 0.4L). - since i will not be needing (if it all works at the end... ?) radiators i will be on the market for a small case. Not planning on changing my PC dramatically, so ATX MB size, fairly long GPU and at least 2x HDD and few SSD must fit in that case. If it has bulk-head type pass through at the back to run the tubes, that would save me time on modding the case. ALL ON BOARD THE CHOO-CHOO TRAIN!
  4. I know I'm definitely not the first person to run a setup like this, but I figured I'd share anyways, since most of the threads I found on this kinda thing from other forums were a little lacking in detail, and I had to go through a bit of trial and error with the adapters. Since I got into watercooling about 5 years ago, I'd always wanted to try hooking up a car rad to a loop, since working on cars is my biggest hobby apart from PC stuff. After watching the disaster that was LTT's car rad video a few times, I figured I'd finally give it a shot, since my parents aren't here in my dorm to stop me from bringing car parts inside Ended up with an original 1970 Camaro 3 core radiator, which uses a full copper core with brass end tanks; $50 from Facebook marketplace! Some new tubing, $20 worth of PVC schedule 40 adapters, a $25 Harbor Freight pond pump (264GPH, 5.5ft head pressure; submersible, comes with a 1/2in barb adapter for the outlet, and has a removable/ washable filter for the inlet), and a few gallons of distilled water/ Primochill's included additive later, here it is! Got it propped up next to my window with a box fan blowing cold air from outside through into the room. ADAPTERS For the adapters, on this specific rad, I ended up using a rubber 1-1/4in to 1-1/2in adapter on the inlet and outlet. The outlet measures 1-1/2in, but the adapters turned out to be a bit oversized, so had to try a few before I got ones that fit snugly. From there, used 1-1/2in Schedule 40 PVC to 1/2in NPT threaded adapters, then put 1/2in x 1/2in MNPT barbs into those using T Plus 2 PTFE pipe sealant on the threads. From my research, found that it's best practice to use a non-setting thread sealer for this kind of connection, as opposed to the usual PVC cement. The sealant is rated for potable water systems as well, so I felt alright about having it in the loop, and it doesn't appear to have mixed with the coolant anyways, so I'd say it's working properly. The first time I tried to get this loop done, I used brass barbs in the adapters, but as it turns out, brass won't seal properly in PVC threads, so keep that in mind if you try this. RADIATOR CAP Finally, I ended up getting one of the pressure release style radiator caps, which actually turned out to be a huge help. The spring in the cap seals the neck of the rad, but if you lift the lever, it'll bleed all the air out of the loop through the overflow tank stem; very handy feature, and the cap was only $8 on Amazon. Keeps the system sealed with the lever down as well, so I didn't have to plug the overflow tank stem like I thought I would. A regular style cap would be a PITA to bleed, since it won't open unless your coolant pressure gets above 15psi, which isn't going to happen in a PC loop, so I'd recommend getting this kind of cap if you wanna build one of these rigs. TUBING/ COOLANT I used 7/16in ID x 5/8in OD Primochill Advanced LRT tubing, which fits snugly over the 1/2in barbs (may have to stretch it and fiddle around to get em started though), and just used standard PC G 1/4 compression fittings for the PC side of the loop. The Primochill tubing also comes with an additive that makes a gallon of coolant with growth and corrosion inhibitors, which I've been running with no issues in my regular loop for 5 years now, so I trust that it'll keep the loop clean (enough). Took somewhere around 4 gallons to fill the loop, including the 2 gallon bucket the pump is sitting in; the other 3 gallons are just plain distilled water, but when I move out of my dorm, I'll probably spend the extra money for more of the Primochill additive just to be safe. It's about $13/ gallon, which is actually cheaper than antifreeze where I am! Speaking of, I do have antifreeze on hand for when the temps start tanking here in Virginia as we get closer to winter, so we'll see if that ends up being necessary. Could always just close the window, but I'm a sucker for low temps on my components, so I'll keep it open unless I start seeing condensation. Oh, and back on the topic of the Primochill tubing, I'd also like to note that they say the tubing IS compatible with antifreeze, so that I shouldn't have to worry about adding it if/ when the time comes. JayzTwoCents did a couple videos a few years back with antifreeze in a loop, and it worked perfectly fine for a few months; only replaced it in his follow up vid because his DDC pump got shorted on the heatsink and he had to drain the loop. Antifreeze (at least the regular green kind, do some research on the different kinds to know the difference; If I recall correctly, the red Toyota coolant is only used in full aluminum systems, and I haven't looked into the orange or yellow types, but they all have different additives for the systems they were designed for; green was made for older cars with iron block engines, copper or rads, aluminum heads, copper heater cores, etc. Lots of different metals, so do your due diligence if you wanna try this to make sure you use a coolant that'll be compatible with your specific rad/ blocks)... er, got a bit rambly there, so I'll digress Anyways, antifreeze is designed to be in systems which use rubber, so you shouldn't have to worry about the seals in your loop degrading. ANYWAYS, that was all a lengthy roundabout way of saying that the Primochill tubing will work with antifreeze, and I'd imagine other soft tubings for PC cooling will as well, but just make sure that your tubing of choice is compatible if you want antifreeze. I believe most hardline tubing won't work, specifically PETG. I also wouldn't recommend doing hardline for this kind of thing unless you're quite certain that you're gonna keep the radiator and PC exactly where they are. Always preferred soft tubing for ease of maintenance personally, since I'm more concerned with performance than looks. Bet you could make a setup like this look pretty slick with copper tubing though; industrial chic! TL;DR: Make sure you do your research on coolant compatibility!! And don't do what Linus did in whole room watercooling, since antifreeze doesn't contain growth inhibitors! (car cooling systems don't need growth inhibitors since the heat from the engine will kill anything in the loop. Your PC will NOT get the coolant into the 220f+ range like an engine will) PERFORMANCE/ RESULTS Only have it hooked up to the GPU block for now, but it's been working for a bit over a week now with no issues. Really wish they'd properly hooked up the rad in the video, because it really does work quite well, and the adapters were only about $20 total. Even better though, if you poke around on secondhand marketplaces, you can find a good amount of full copper rads from older cars for quite cheap, since a lot of people with those cars like to move up to new 4 core aluminum rads and the like. All in, I paid about $135 for the full setup, not counting the GPU block. Hope they revisit this concept on LTT and actually do it right. As for performance, obviously it's quite good. Pump actually has pretty good flow through the whole loop, and the GPU idles at about the temps of the weather, maybe 1c higher. Got down to 12c at idle the other night when it was in the low 50f range, and running Cyberpunk with the 1080ti overclocked to 2075mhz/ 6107mhz mem, it peaked at 23c, and managed to stay at 2075mhz the entire time! When it was hooked into the CPU loop (780mm total rad area, sharing the loop with an i7 6950x @ 4.2GHz/ 1.24v), it would sit closer to 34c in the same conditions with the windows opened, and clocked down closer to 2012mhz. Really no actual impact on performance, but hey, its nice to see the clocks staying up. Got it to keep a stable 2113mhz in Time Spy as well, hoping to see it go higher once winter kicks in. CHANGES I'D LIKE TO MAKE Eventually, I do want to move to a traditional style D5 pump with a reservoir, but I went with the bucket/ Harbor Freight pump for now because budget. At the very least, I'd like to drill some holes in the lid of the bucket so the tubing can pass through and I can keep the bucket sealed. Would also like an actual way to mount the rad in one place as well, since it's just leaning against the window frame, but its been stable on the shelf, so it'll do. One last thing I considered trying, and may end up doing eventually, is to get some brass caps in the size of the inlet/ outlet for the rad, then drill/ tap them for G 1/4 thread, and braze them to the radiator. If that's done properly, it should theoretically hook up to a PC the same as any standard PC radiator, but I'm using the adapters for now since I don't have access to any of the tools for that here in my dorm room. Plus, that adds a bit of cost, and it means you'd be permanently modifying the radiator, so it'd never really work in a car again. Probably not a concern for most people, but I would like to own a 2nd gen f-body one day, so I may end up putting the rad back into the car it was designed for. Probably not, but you never know! Would definitely make the setup a bit more "proper" though, assuming it was done right. I'm also not sure if I'm going to make use of the transmission cooler lines. The lines lead into a cylindrical reservoir inside of the passenger side end tank, and it's designed to actually heat the trans fluid and keep it at operating temp. I'm sure if you wanted to get wacky and wild, you could do some kinda system with a condenser or a chiller through the trans loop, but it'd be pointless to add it into the loop with the main rad, since the coolant would be at the same temps. I'M FINALLY (almost) DONE TALKING! Apologies for the long post, but hopefully I remembered to put in all the little details for how to actually set the loop up, in case anyone was looking into doing something similar. If anyone has any questions or wants some clarification on anything I may have accidentally left out, let me know! Would love to hear back on any advice some of y'all may have on this kinda setup as well, since I'm new to the whole janky watercooling world; this whole project is just me experimenting, and I'm definitely no expert.
  5. I'm starting to wish a little that I can go back in time and choose a different pump/res combo and radiators. The Darkside Cross-Flow radiators are proving to be a little cumbersome to work with because they are dictating what the loop order and fan intake/exhaust flow has to be. But my main issue right now is how to mount my EK Quantum Kinetic TBE pump/res combo. I bought it because it is what EK's config tool recommended I use, and I didn't notice at the time that it was a side mount pump and not bottom/floor mount like I assumed and I don't have the luxury of fast delivery to me location. To my eye's the only mounting options are either through the plastic floor/psu shroud cover, or to tuck it behind my vertically mounted gpu. Are these truly my only options or am I missing something?
  6. I have just finished doing a custom loop GPU (3070TI) and CPU(I7-12700K) both are currently over clocked just a tad and I’m currently playing hogwarts legacy at max everything just wanted to know if these temps are good I’m in Hawaii so it’s pretty hot in the house at most times and I don’t have AC right now as well if I’d guess the rooms probably anywhere from 68-75 degrees while I’m playing but that’s a rough estimate I also have the fans only at about 7-800 RPMs at the moment but anyways just needed the advice thank you in advance
  7. Hello! (First Post) I apologize in advance if this has been asked before. I'm an experienced builder that is now getting into custom loop cooling. I already built a custom loop (CPU Only) in an O-11 Dynamic about two months ago. However, I must of done something wrong. My temps are getting worse by the day to the point to where I've disabled turbo boost to avoid throttling and "hiccups" of my system lol. It's not leaking or anything crazy, I think I should have rinsed out the rad a bit more and ran a sysprep solution longer during leak testing cause I'm reasonably sure I have allege/debris growth building up somewhere if not everywhere in the loop lol. I'm planning on taking everything apart and replacing the tubes and the rad. I'm keeping the fittings and the distro plate since I will be cleaning those as well. What is recommended for cleaning brass and copper fittings like this one that I'm using: BPTA-DOTFH1622-GS (bitspower.com) And the rad I'm replacing it with is a copper based material, will that cause any issues for galvanic corrosion? (I bought a silver coil in case that will help). My last question: I understand "soapy" water is preferred when cleaning acrylic (correct me if I'm wrong). If that's the case, is there certain soap to avoid? Or am I just overthinking that lol? Sorry for the long post!
  8. Hi! Recently, I have been looking into a custom water cooled loop. Its pretty confusing and complicated, so I just want to make sure that I got everything right! I want to go with a bunch of parts such as pump/res, fittings, and radiator from Corsair, as my build a white themed and some of the Corsair Hydro X parts are white. Other parts such as the CPU block I want to get from EK, because their plexi/nickel ones look pretty cool. Here us my list so far: CPU block: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-quantum-velocity-amd-nickel-plexi Pump/res: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Custom-Cooling/Pump-Reservoir/Hydro-X-Series-XD5-RGB-Pump-Reservoir-Combo/p/CX-9040007-WW Radiator: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/CORSAIR-White-PC-Build/XR5-White/p/CX-9030007-WW Tubing: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Custom-Cooling/Tubing/hydro-x-hardline-tubing-config/p/CX-9059005-WW (Note that I will be using fittings instead of bending most of the tubes because I think that it looks better and I have no problem spending more) Fittings #1: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Custom-Cooling/Fittings/hydro-x-fitting-config/p/CX-9052013-WW Fittings #2: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Custom-Cooling/Fittings/hydro-x-fitting-config/p/CX-9052020-WW Fittings #3: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Custom-Cooling/Fittings/hydro-x-adapter-config/p/CX-9055014-WW Fittings #4: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Custom-Cooling/Fittings/hydro-x-ball-valve/p/CX-9055019-WW Accessories: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Custom-Cooling/Accessories/Hydro-X-Series-Filling-Bottle/p/CX-9070001-WW https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Custom-Cooling/Coolant/hydro-x-coolant/p/CX-9060005-WW https://www.amazon.com/MAGBIT-801-114C-MAG801-Cutter-Copper/dp/B005M2A3CQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1500324719&sr=1-6&keywords=pipe+cutter&linkCode=sl1&tag=sciestud09-20&linkId=66f308e34ef13f2b0abeafc0783f3bc1 https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Custom-Cooling/Accessories/Hydro-X-Series-XT-Hardline-Bending-Toolkit-(12mm-%26-14mm)/p/CX-9059007-WW After looking at those, I still have a few questions. 1: The tubing is PMMA, or acrylic. Will this bend and cut the same way as PETG? Using a tube cutter such as this one. If it is not cut the same way, please let me know how to cut it! 2: The radiator is made of nickel, and the CPU block is made of nickel. Would I experience any galvanic corrosion with these parts? 3: After watching many videos on how to fill the loop, most of the non-opaque coolants have tiny mico-bubbles inside the CPU block and the reservoir. I do not want to go with an opaque coolant because it will just get stuck inside the loop and not look as good in the long run. Along with creating more work for me in the future. How would I go about getting the bubbles out, in my opinion, then dont look too good. 4: (follow up to question one) If the acrylic/PMMA is not cut with a tube cutter (link here) would it be cut with the Corsair Hydro X Hardline Bending Toolkit? Thank you so much for any help or advice! This helps so much as I am pretty confused about the compatibility and the questions. Again, thank you so much!
  9. Hi! Recently, I have been looking into a custom water cooled loop. Its pretty confusing and complicated, so I just want to make sure that I got everything right! I want to go with a bunch of parts such as pump/res, fittings, and radiator from Corsair, as my build a white themed and some of the Corsair Hydro X parts are white. Other parts such as the CPU block I want to get from EK, because their plexi/nickel ones look pretty cool. Here us my list so far: CPU block: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-quantum-velocity-amd-nickel-plexi Pump/res: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Custom-Cooling/Pump-Reservoir/Hydro-X-Series-XD5-RGB-Pump-Reservoir-Combo/p/CX-9040007-WW Radiator: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/CORSAIR-White-PC-Build/XR5-White/p/CX-9030007-WW Tubing: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Custom-Cooling/Tubing/hydro-x-hardline-tubing-config/p/CX-9059005-WW (Note that I will be using fittings instead of bending most of the tubes because I think that it looks better and I have no problem spending more) Fittings #1: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Custom-Cooling/Fittings/hydro-x-fitting-config/p/CX-9052013-WW Fittings #2: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Custom-Cooling/Fittings/hydro-x-fitting-config/p/CX-9052020-WW Fittings #3: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Custom-Cooling/Fittings/hydro-x-adapter-config/p/CX-9055014-WW Fittings #4: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Custom-Cooling/Fittings/hydro-x-ball-valve/p/CX-9055019-WW Accessories: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Custom-Cooling/Accessories/Hydro-X-Series-Filling-Bottle/p/CX-9070001-WW https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Custom-Cooling/Coolant/hydro-x-coolant/p/CX-9060005-WW https://www.amazon.com/MAGBIT-801-114C-MAG801-Cutter-Copper/dp/B005M2A3CQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1500324719&sr=1-6&keywords=pipe+cutter&linkCode=sl1&tag=sciestud09-20&linkId=66f308e34ef13f2b0abeafc0783f3bc1 https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Custom-Cooling/Accessories/Hydro-X-Series-XT-Hardline-Bending-Toolkit-(12mm-%26-14mm)/p/CX-9059007-WW After looking at those, I still have a few questions. 1: The tubing is PMMA, or acrylic. Will this bend and cut the same way as PETG? Using a tube cutter such as this one. If it is not cut the same way, please let me know how to cut it! 2: The radiator is made of nickel, and the CPU block is made of nickel. Would I experience any galvanic corrosion with these parts? 3: After watching many videos on how to fill the loop, most of the non-opaque coolants have tiny mico-bubbles inside the CPU block and the reservoir. I do not want to go with an opaque coolant because it will just get stuck inside the loop and not look as good in the long run. Along with creating more work for me in the future. How would I go about getting the bubbles out, in my opinion, then dont look too good. 4: (follow up to question one) If the acrylic/PMMA is not cut with a tube cutter (link here) would it be cut with the Corsair Hydro X Hardline Bending Toolkit? Thank you so much for any help or advice! This helps so much as I am pretty confused about the compatibility and the questions. Again, thank you so much!
  10. Hi together, I just want to share my recent wc loop upgrade with you. My previous build log can you see here: I used a plate heat exchanger to connect a second cooling loop to improve the cooling capacity. I used insulated soft tubing to connect the secondary side of the pwt to a Mo-Ra 3 360 in our unheated, but insulated attic. Now the water temperature stays at ambient, or 1°C above when playing Cyberpunk 2077 and the system puling aroung 400 - 450 W power. I'm planning to cool my PC and the room it is in with some underground geothermal collectors for the next summer :D.
  11. So, I installed my first loop. It is a GPU ONLY loop right now and I am starting to think I may not have enough rad space but I am not sure so I figured I would ask you guys. For reference: Gpu: asus strix 3080ti in a hydro x gpu block Xd3 pump on balanced. 1 30mm thick 360 rad. 3 slim fans pushing on back and 3 traditional fans pulling on the front. All set to the same fan curve topping out at 1,500 rpm max. Tubing is pmma I run two monitors one 4k one 1440p. case is a regular O11 Dynamic. After switching to water cooling the GPU temps went from maxing at 80c on GOTG (4k ultra, raytracing very high, Dlss off) to maxing out at 65c with the same settings. The coolant temp, however hit a max of 45/46c after running it for a while. Delta between coolant and ambient temp was about 20c. I thought this was good at first seeing as how my pump/tubes are rated for 60c but from reading around people have maxes in the 30's. I also worry about future games with higher demand. So before investing in a 120mm rad (all my case has room to add) are my coolant temps anything to be concerned about? Should I pull the trigger and buy it? Thank you for taking the time to read and for any feedback.
  12. Hey all I'm in the process of selecting parts for a new build and am going to be attempting my first ever custom loop covering the CPU and GPU. For the CPU block I was lucky enough to get one of the Corsair Jayz2Cents edition XC8 water blocks this week and I'll be going with the Corsair XD5 pump/res combo and the Corsair XR5 or XR7 radiator. For my GPU I'm still a little up in the air as to whether I'm going for the ASUS Tuf 3080 Ti 12GB or the PowerColor AMD Radeon RX 6900 XT Red Devil Ultimate 16GB. (It's what's in stock) Corsair don't seem to make a GPU block for either card but I found EK make the 'EK-Quantum Vector TUF RTX 3080/3090 D-RGB - Nickel + Acetal' for the Nvidia card ands they make the 'K-Quantum Vector Red Devil RX 6800/6900 D-RGB - Nickel + Acetal' for the AMD card. My concerns with this are twofold. 1st, can they be used together. They both seem to use G1/4" ports/threads so I'm assuming I'd be able to use the Corsair hard or soft tubing? And I'm guessing if that does work the Corsair fittings would be fine? Am probably going with soft tubing as it's my first ever attempt. Only used AIOs before. 2nd, I'm concerned about the potential mixing of metals. The EKWB products list nickel and on Corsair's product page for the XC8 it says only to mix with other copper/brass products. From what I've read mixing nickel (I'm assuming the EK stuff is still copper but just nickel plated) with copper should be OK and shouldnt cause corrosion? Any advice or suggestions anyone could give on the above would be greatly appreciated.
  13. Hello, I have noticed a couple of times now, that the fluid in my water cooling loop seems to be slowly disappearing, and I noticed it again today. About 1 and a half moths ago I had to top of my distribution plate, as it was not filled to the top, I filled it as much as I could before it would leak out of the fill port. Today, again, I noticed that there is a relatively good amount of room for me to add more water to the plate. My first thought was that there had to be a leak. They system has been fully built for almost half a year, and I thought that it would have been done bleeding a long time ago. I searched everywhere inside of my case, under the case, around it, everywhere water could have made it, and I see no signs of a leak at all. I should also mention that this is my custom hardline loop. I have had a leak in the past (completely different build), with the same bright liquid in it, and it was noticeable right away, even though it was a very small leak. The purple liquid stood out very clearly against the white case. With this build I also have bright purple fluid, and a white case. I am at a loss, because I really don't know how liquid could be leaving the system and showing no signs of a leak. Are there any other possible reason that I could be losing liquid in my loop? Thank you in advance for any advice!
  14. Hey guys, I am currently thinking about building a custom loop for my pc. I just got a KFA2 Rtx 3060 and can't find a suitable waterblock for it. Do you guys know of any good waterblock? Maybe someone already tried a setup with this card?
  15. hello, i'm new to custom loop and planned to do custom loop with my PC, is $500 too much for a custom loop ?, since its my first time i might get some spare parts that easily get messed up like the hard tubing, since i dont have a heatgun, i planned to use my hot air soldering station for it ( it probably has the same function as the heatgun ), here's my list of part that i'm gonna purchase : 1. BARROW BS-NVG1080T-PA Liquid Cooling GPU Block for GTX 1080TI/New TiTan X/TITAN XP/1080/1070 Addressable RGB (T) 2. BARROW AWGM3-16 ABS 16mm Hard Tube Bending Kit (3pcs) 3. BARROW FBCFRX-360Y 360mm Copper Radiator With Temperature Display(30mm) 4. BARROW Dabel-30a 360 Cooper Radiator 360mm (30mm) 5. BARROW FBPG1612-L PETG Tube 12/16mm 500mm 6. BARROW GJSGW-12 White Silicon Bending Cord For 12mm ID Hard Tube - 500mm 7. BARROW LTYK3-04 V2 Addressable RGB CPU Water Block (Intel LGA115X) 8. BARROW SPB17 PLUS LRC 2.0 Addressable RGB PWM Control Speed 17W DDC Pump 9. BARROW TKDDCG50-140 Water Tank for DDC Pump Cover 140mm Transparent 10. BARROW TFYKN-T16 16mm OD Compression Fitting 11. BARROW TZS1-A02 Stop Plug G1/4 12. BARROW YGJDJ-V1 Rigid Tube Chamfering Tool 13. BARROW TWT45-B01 45 Rotary M-F G1/4 Fitting 14. BARROW GJQM-01 Manual Air Tightness Leak Tester $500 is approximation for the whole cost of the loop, also i cant really afford getting all EKWB part because its almost triple the price of those parts. the reason i want to do a custom loop because apparently my AiO starts to acting weird, and i feel like it might died soon, the AiO cant sync anymore to iCue no matter how hard i tried to fix the usb, and the pump rpm reading starts to act weird, and i cant control anything anymore ( AiO is 5 years old ), so i might as well just get custom loop for the system. i also have a question, can i combine other brand part for the custom loop ?, thanks for answering My Full PC Spec : Intel i7-10700KF Overclock to 5Ghz Asus ROG STRIX Z490-F G.Skill TridentZ Neo 2 x 8GB 3200MHz Inno3d GTX 1080TI iChill x4 Herculez ( the same pcb as FE ) Corsair H110i 280mm AiO Corsair RM650X 650W Fully Modular PSU LianLi PC-O11 Dynamic Samsung 970 EVO 250GB NVME Adata SX8200 Pro 500GB NVME WD Blue 2 TB 7200RPM Toshiba 1 TB 2.5" 5400RPM here's my pc pict :
  16. So I am in the midst of planning my first custom loop and research/feedback online has me paranoid about having enough radiator space. I did not invest in cooling components to get the same or worse thermals and noise. So I ordered Hydro x kit with xd3 pump, 9 1,500 rpm fans, a cpu block and gpu block. I also invested in 2 360mm (30mm thick) rads and one 240mm (30 mm thick) rad. All together my loop will have about 960 mm of 30mm thick rad space. Can I expect better temps and noise for my cpu and gpu? or is more rad space necessary? If anyone has a similar build your thermals would give me a good base line. Hard to know what is good enough. I really appreciate any feedback. For reference here is my current cooling setup: Gpu: 3080ti strix stock air cooler cpu: i9 9900k. Corsair H150i pro 360mm aio.
  17. Budget (including currency): $5,000+ Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: It should easily do anything that I ask it to do! Elden Ring, Cyberpunk 2077, Valve Index VR Other Details This project has been over a year in the making. AMD Ryzen 9 5950X EVGA FTW 3 3080ti Asus X570 Crosshair viii Hero (WiFi) 32GB G. Skill Trident Z Neo 16-19-19-39 1 TB WD Black SN 850 NVME boot drive 2 TB Samsung 980 Pro NVME 2-2 TB Seagate Barracuda HDD in Raid1 EK Quantum front and active back GPU water blocks EK Quantum Momentum CPU water block Lian Li O11 Dynamic XL with vertical GPU mount EK Quantum Reflection front distribution plate 3- Hardware Labs Black Ice 360GTS 30mm radiators 10- EK Vardar 120 mm RGB fans F*** Ton of Primochill RSX fittings, rotaries, elbows, extensions etc. 1- EK Quantum 90° rotary elbow Lots of Primochill 1/2" rigid tubing CableMod custom CPU, GPU, 24pin Primochill VUE Powder Blue Uncountable hours of stress, annoyance, time spent waiting for a GPU, blood, sweat, tears, and of course utter and complete despair. I started ordering parts for this build in January 2021 which turned out to be a bad idea. My first mock-up and install of everything didn't post for some reason. Originally, I had intended to go with a AMD Ryzen 5 5600X, but got trapped in the NewEgg shuffle attempting to find a GPU and ended up with a 5950X that I paid too much for and can't recoup my money for. I was able to find everything immediately except for my GPU. Sometime around June, I got fed up and paid (at the time) scalper pricing for my EVGA FTW3 3080ti through ebay. After that, I had to wait for EK's delivery times from Europe, and then I got overwhelmed by the scope of the water-cooling project, so I delayed another month or so. The initial build went great! I had the stock cooler that came with the 5600X plus the GPU was air-cooled from the factory. I was able to flash my BIOS easily (thank you ASUS!), and never had a hint of a problem posting. I was initially using the Fractal Design Flex B-20 PCIe 3.0 x 16 vertical GPU adapter with the BIOS setting for the GPU (PCIE 4 vs 3) set to automatic. I initially tested the post using an Nvidia Geforce GTX 970, but I never had problems getting the 3080ti to work using the PCIe 3 cable. Windows 10 Pro installed easily on the WD Black SN850, and the system worked perfectly! I then did a rough assembly with everything air-cooled until I could get all of my water blocks and fittings delivered. Everything was perfect for a couple of months! I finally got all of the water blocks from EK. And postponed the water install because I was playing Sekiro... But, I did finally tear everything (all blocks and fittings) fully apart to thoroughly clean with Primochill SystemSoap. Then to bending tubes. The Top Radiator, both CPU, and the front GPU tubes were all rather simple. I ended up purchasing the Lian Li Vertical GPU mount for the O11 DXL with the PCIe 4.0 cable and using it instead of the Fractal Design which forced me to nest the Bottom/Sided Radiator tubes right against the fans. There is no aditional clearance whatsoever. The loop goes from the Distro --> Bottom Rad --> EK Loop Connect flow meter --> Side Radiator --> EK filter --> Distro. The connection from Side Radiator --> Distro was a pain in my a**! I ended up going with a 30° Elbow, and it still required quite a bit of force on the tube. The back of the GPU was also a b****. I had to do an immediate 90° drop down about 20mm to another 90° in order to clear the RAM. I also threw an EK Temperature Sensor behind the GPU here. Then it goes to a 180° rotary to get us back to the Distro. This is when I realized that I had a really bad leak using my Bykski Air Pressure Meter. So I took each component out of the chassis again testing each time to see that I still had a massive leak. After taking every component out, I came to the realization that either I am completely incompetent or my Pressure Tester was jacked. Sure enough putting the tester directly into a Shut Off Valve proved that it was the tester itself all along. This annoyance and frustration left me to postpone any further efforts for a few weeks as I waited for an EK leak tester to arrive. This brings us to now. I have been putting the components in one at a time and testing as I go. I have the Front Distro Plate, Side Radiator, and Bottom Radiator all fully installed and leak-free!!!!! My GPU is a different story. I have a TINY leak somewhere. When testing, I slowly lose air over about 30 hours. Within the first 15 minutes, I probably drop about 0.025 bar, maybe less. I am currently talking with EK support about the best course of action. I would prefer to not have to tear the GPU blocks off and apart, but I think that is where this is all going to end up. All along, I've been struggling with the cable management. All in, I've got the CableMod CPU, GPU, and 24 Pin 10 - fan cables 10 - 12v 4 pin RGB 5 - 5v 3 pin RGB 2 - SATA 1 - Molex pump power 1 - flow meter 1 - loop temperature sensor And all of the front panel The O11's hot-swappable bays are amazing, and made the HDD's install a breeze. This chassis in general is terrific to work in. The channel for cable management is huge, and it held my massive bundles easily. Honestly, I could have done nothing and just covered the Rat's Nest with the included cable hiding wall, and nobody would be the wiser. My biggest trouble spot was getting the front panel cables to squeeze around the Side Radiator and fans. You can fit a 30mm radiator and a 25mm fan in the back, but it is very tight; the back panel may bulge a tad. I ended up having to get three Cooler Master 5-way RGB Splitters as well as one SilverStone PWM fan hub. All in, I'd say I was routing, rerouting, threading, bundling, tieing cables down, and cursing my life choices for about 3 hours. I'm satisfied with the result even though it almost looks the same.
  18. Hi please can someone help me figure out what fitting i need to complete this. currently using EK quantum 16mm 90, with extenders and a 16mm fitting on the distro. Does such a fitting exist that would bridge the gape between these 2 ? or replace the fitting in the distro?
  19. Hi I got a custom loop pc built for me by a UK supplier. The first 5950x I got with it had to be RMAed for constant shutdowns at low power state. Got the new one and been running for a couple of months. RM is set to default. I have no overclock in bios. I do however get temps of 50c for 1% cpu usage and it will kick up to 85c or higher under load such as a game. GPU (3090) sits at 40c when idle and 60c under load. The supplier said this is in normal parameters for a 5950x. I am worried I am throttling and I have had shut down due to CPU hitting 95 on several occasions. My cooling is a 360 rad from Corsair for both CPU and GPU with a Lian Li distro plate running pump at constant 100%. I have attached the picture of the rig as provided by the shop. Any advice would be most welcome. Thanks in advance.
  20. I built this system with a Ryzen 5900x and Corsair's Hydro X water cooling parts only 2 months ago and I just noticed a build up in the CPU block. I'm not sure how to clean this out yet cause I have yet to drain the system and clean it out. I've built plenty of PCs but it was my first stint with a custom loop. I need some more instructions with maintaining the system after resolving the current issue as well.
  21. I'm planning to do my first custom loop. Idea is to cool an RTX 3080 Ti and a Ryzen 5600x or 5800x using a single 140 x 420mm rad. I plan to use Front: 3x Noctua A14 PWM chromax for the rad, PWM Top: 2x Corsair iCUE QL140 as exhaust in the top, configured to lowest RPM Back: 1x EK-Quantum Reflection Uni 140 D5 PWM D-RGB - Plexi as pump / res combo Bad idea? Anything I need to be cautious of? How should the water flow? Pump -> GPU -> RAD -> CPU ?
  22. Hi, finally upgraded my obsidian 1000D with a custom loop and wanted to share the results. It turned pretty nice. Parts for the custom loop are all from corsair hydro x series. I was positively suprised with the quality of all of the elements and how they fit together. In the front i've got 2x 480 fatty rads , coolant sits at 25 C and CPU iddles at 31 with ultra slow fan speed. It's a lot quiter than the AIO config i had before , did not expect it to be this much. One thing i would say the miss is some f-f connections to connect for example two tubes. I had a 48 cm distance between cpu and front rad to cover and had to do it in the simpliest possible way.
  23. Hi, I have the below components 9900K 6800XT 360ml Radiator 140ml Radiator 3x120mm case fans Im only cooling my CPU Suggested orientation 1: 3 case fans intake in front 360mm Radiator at top exaust 140mm Radiator on the back intake This way the 140mm is pulling fresh air into the loop unlike the 360mm which is pulling hot air from the GPU. Suggested orientation 2: 3 case fans on top as exaust 360mm Radiator in front - pull 140mm Radiator on the back as intake - pull Thsi way i get Fresh air into the 360mm and 140mm but may affect tue GPU temps negatively. Any suggestions or advice?
  24. I had just finish installing my first custom loop and getting temp as high as 35-37 degrees at idle and up to 55-65 under load. The high idle temp is probably due to high ambient at 30+ degrees since the room is not air conditioned most of the time. What worries me is the under load temp, it is record with A/C on at around 25 degree ambient. The loop consist of a RTX2070 and i5 8600k both of which at stock clock, running a D5 pump and a 30mm 280 rad with dual 140mm phantek F140MP set at about 1000 rpm in push config pushing fresh air into case. case is a Cooler master mb600L, not the best case I know but removing the front panel cools only a further 1-2 degrees so probably not air flow issue am I at risk for letting the loop hit that high under load temp?
  25. Hey everyone. I recently purchased all the parts that I need for a custom water loop. Most of them already arrived (just waiting for the fittings and tubes), but my water block came with the pleasant surprise of a bonus fan controller (which was actually great, because all my fans came with a 6 pin connector that I never saw before in my life instead of the 3 pin argb connector + standard fan connector, so I won't need to get an adapter/hub). But this fan controller has a 2 pin connector that I don't know exactly what is for, and I didn't find any user guide. I saw that there are some fittings with temperature sensors that have a 2 pin cable, but after talking with a seller (which didn't seem like someone who knows a lot about the matter), they said that it wouldn't work with that fan controller, because the controller doesn't have any connection with the motherboard (well, it has an argb header for the motherboard, but he said that it wouldn't work anyway). The 2 pin connector is named "manual control", and the controller also has a power input (molex) and that argb connector that I mentioned before (3 pin connector to the motherboard). What device/cable should I be connecting to that 2 pin slot?
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