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I have "Antec HCG-1000-EXTREME SMPS - 1000 Watt 80 Plus Gold Certification Fully Modular PSU with Active PFC" but sometimes tik sound came from PSU(pc on/off or when close the game), what is problem with it? psu.mp3
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I live in Sri Lanka and recently I bought myself some PC components to upgrade my existing system which was looking lame. The PC I had, Intel Core i3 9100F Processor Asus TUF H310M-Plus Gaming Motherboard T-Force 16GB 2666MHz (8GBx2) RAM Team GX1 240GB SATA SSD Seagate BarraCuda 7200RPM 1TB HDD Antec A30 36 CFM CPU Cooler Antec BP450 Power Supply Asus GTX 1650 Phoenix VGA Antec DP301M Casing Creative Labs Inspire T6300 5.1 Channel Speakers Asus VZ229HE 21.5" Monitor Samsung 19" LED Monitor PowerPro 650VA UPS Logitech C310 Webcam Haviet WiFi Adapter Antec RGB Cooling Fan, Raidmax Cooling Fan (Both 120mm Fans) The new parts I got for the upgrade are, Corsair H100 RGB 240mm CPU Cooler Corsair MP510 240GB M.2 NVMe SSD Corsair RM750 PSU Cooler Master MasterFan MF Halo 120mm Halo 3-in-1 Pack Asus TUF Gaming GT501 Casing Toshiba P300 7200RPM 2TB HDD Asus TUF M3 Gaming Mouse Asus TUF K3 Gaming Keyboard I put together the system on the 3rd of December and on the 4th of December I checked everything and everything was working fine. I'm running Windows 10 Pro and cloned my SATA SSD files to the new M.2 SSD using the Macrium Reflect 7 software. But on Friday (10th of December) I woke up in the morning as usual and started my work on my PC and I felt like a small sting coming though my keyboard. At that moment I didn't feel it much but it kept happening. Everytime I touch my keyboard (the base of the keyboard, not the keys) I feel like a small current is running through my body. I started wearing rubber flip flops right at that moment and I didn't feel it again. Obviously I knew then that it was leaking or flowing a small current through my body. I further investigated this and asked some of my family members to touch the keyboard and they felt the same thing too. Then on Saturday I took apart my system again, tried everything I knew to determine what's happening but unfortunately I didn't find a solution. I even checked whether the PSU is grounded properly and removed it completely and tried installing it again, but that didn't help either. At this moment I don't know anything else to do or try out and this is why I'm reaching out to you, and I really hope you will help me out because I'm really desperate right now to know what is the problem in my system. I tried using the keyboard connected to my Laptop, but then I didn't feel any current, so my guess is something is not right in my PC or I broke something while putting together the system. I know it's not harmful in any way to me but my concern is a current flowing through my components can harm them in the long term, am I right? I really hope you will reply back to this email and help me out to find a solution for this problem because I'm really desperate to know what happened or what's happening to my system. Thank you in advance for taking the time out and reading my email. I really hope you will help me out. -
I had a Sapphire RX470 OC 4 GB laying around, so I decided to test it to check if it was still functional. No signal at all, but peripherals lit up, so I tried plugging my 1080 to check for the problem. I booted in Windows, opened HWiNFO and what I saw shocked me. You can scrolls down to check by yourself... (I added a gpu-z reading of -1024 KB of cache) Same results are shown with the card installed in another pc... Things that are "strange": -1024 KB of cache; 1.6 MHz core clock; -0.044 V Vcore (lmao!?); 1,018.008 A core current; -44.538 W core/aux current; 137,438,953,440 memory errors (yes, 137 billions errors). I opened the card but everything looks fine, the paste was reapplied just before the test (I used some Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, so no problems from here). I reopened the card after and there was an even mounting pressure, so no very quick overheating problem. What could the problem be?
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Hi i purchased a rtx3070 and I am using it on a PB500W PSU from Gigabyte (https://www.gigabyte.com/Power-Supply/PB500#kf) on a i5 9600k My question is do i need to to change PSU I am asking because I have flickering when playing watch dogs 2 at high gpu utilization? The max power draw I saw was 350~W using a watt meter. can someone explain what are rails and how does it relate to GPU requirements? My PSU is rated at 38A@+12V rail the 3070 is an OC edition. can I get it back to the standard clocks? -
I am planning to buy a couple of CM Turbine Master 1.8 case fans but they draw quite a lot of current, up to 0.5 Amps each. My question is: can I wire 2 of these onto 1 fan header? The motherboard I want to buy is a Gigabyte GA-AB350 Gaming 3. It says on the site of Gigabyte that the headers support up to 2 Amps each, but it's not clear (at least to me) whether this is the combined max current of all headers, or of one header only. This may be stupid question, but I would rather ask a stupid question than fry the fan headers. Thanks in advance. CM Fans: http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/case-fan/turbine-master-mach-18/ Mobo: http://www.gigabyte.us/Motherboard/GA-AB350-GAMING-3-rev-10 P.S. I don't want to buy a fan hub, just so you know. -
Heyho, I'm planning on connecting somthing through a pinstrip(?). It has a rated current of 3A and 250V. Question: Can I put 20 A but 5 V through it? Sincerely schmidti
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I know that there aren't that many people that uses AVR for their PC's anymore but here in my place there are a lot of sudden blackouts and they never announce when and stuff. I'm just worried about my PC that is on it's way to my house. If so what kind of AVR should I get? I don't know much about AVRs but my PC has a 620w PSU.
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So I've been given a homework assignment where I need to find out how battleships in the 1900s were built and how they are currently built. I then need to write a paragraph about the differences between how they were made. I thought it would be a pretty easy assignment however I can't seem to find anything about the process of which battleships are made? I'm not sure if I'm not putting in the correct keywords however I would've thought "how were battleships constructed in the 1900s" would bring up results. Any help would be appreciated on finding how they were/are made since I can't find anything somehow.
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Hey Guys, I think I'm going insane. I want to measure how much current i need to operate an WS2812b RGB LED at full brightness (on all color channels). I'm measuring the amount of current that flows through 2 LEDs. I don't really do hobby electronics that much, but doesn't this say, that one LED consumes up to 15mA ? Or 7,5mA? My problem with this value is, that it is supposed to be 60mA per LED. I found on various sites, that the amount of current that is needed for such an LED at full brightness is 60mA or (at 60 LEDs/m) 3,6A per m. On the product page of the LEDs that I've bought it states, that every SMD consumes 0,3W e.g. 60mA. I have absolutely no clue what I should do. It would be very nice, if you could tell me what current is consumed per LED. And at best explain you calc and reasons. I'm stuck with this since February... MEASURMENT PICTURE IMPORTANT TO SEE!!!!!! Thanks for helpin' out! schmidti
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Hello community, I am asking myself if modern devices like my ZTE axon 7 could charge even slower than 0,7 A from my old galaxy y adapter, namely 0,5 A or if it will not start to charge, because I know that slower charging is better for the battery.
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So Whats Going on with Bit Mining?
Pulpypanda posted a topic in Folding@home, Boinc, and Coin Mining
So I've been looking at upgrading my GPU for a little while, and for a bit prices were alright for most GPU's but suddenly everywhere is out of stock or has prices that are outrageously high, even going as far to be twice the MSRP on some cards! I did some snooping around to see whats been causing the market shift and the only reason I've found is there has been a large growth in the bit mining scene of some sort. If anyone has some more info on it and could elaborate that would be great. I would also like to apologize if this is some what out of date and prices are back to normal but I've been out of the loop for the last month or so. All info is greatly appreciated, Pulpypanda. -
Hello guys, I have been having a problem for a very long time with this phone and it's been bugging me enough that I will now discuss about it here in hope of sloving this. Basically my phone charges extremely slowly (around 4 hours to full charge or more) and if I try to use it at the same time, the power draw form the battery from using it exceeds what the charger is supplying to it Now I've tried a few combinations of charging methods being: -Wall charger with stock cable which delivers apparently 380 mA of current, -Wall charger +extension cable and stock cable which is what I use because when I'm in bed the stock cable isn't long enough by itself and this delivers 360 mA, -Samsung cable plugged into a USB3 port on my PC which also delivers 360 mA even if USB 3 is rated up to 0.9 mA and 1.5 mA for the charging dedicated ports which I do not have. -And finally my little unbranded power bank that I got as gift for spending X amount of money at a Quicksilver store and this one delivers a whopping 1.2 A of current which I would guess is what the phone should be drawing from the wall charger but it's drawing a bit over a quarter of that... Now this phone has been charging very quickly when it was brand new and if I remember correctly this slow charging issue started when I updated to Android 5 (now on 5.0.1) and I haven't been able to find a solution to this. The Wall charger I have has a Rated output of 5V and 2A but it doesn't deliver anything near that level of current. To give you an idea, my phone would be fully charged in about 120 to 130 minutes which is around 1% per 1 minutes until 80% is reached then trickle charging for battery health would fill up 30 mins or so of the charging time left. What I'm seeing here is probably a constant trickle charge rate and it's annoying as all hell... Anyone have any Idea on why this is happening? The battery itself if fine I would guess but the weird thing is that only my power bank is bale to charge my phone fast enough for it to be relevant at all. Please help, I would appreciate anything at all. Thanks
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How many amps does Ryzen 2000 series draw in terms of VRMs on the motherboard? I saw something in the last few days about 100A but can't remember where that was. Or if that's reliable info. No one knows about Ryzen 3000 series, but based on the motherboard specs of X570 it seems like it's going to be a lot more. But does anyone have any guesses as to how much more. For example, the Ryzen 3700X or 3800X shouldn't be THAT much more than the 2700X right? But then, if you add 12 or 16 cores it starts to make more sense. But does it scale equally, or does it ramp up? For example.. a 12 core running the same frequencies as 2700X.. will it be using 33% more current.. or more than that? If it's true that 2700X draws 100A through the VRM.. does it mean that the 16 core will be using 200A or will it be a lot more? I know that this information will be easier to talk about in the next few months when benchmarks and other info comes out into the public, but does anyone have any guesses based on previous experience with earlier systems? -
hello all, this is my first time asking question here on linustechtips :) i have a question about hdd grinding noises... i have two hdds stacked together with a usb non power hub connected to my macbook when i copy files between them, those two hdds will make HUGE grinding noises and will copy slowly. but then it will stop copying and disconnect a while later.. if i take out one hdd from it, it wont make any grinding noises and work well like nothing ever happened... i bought the usb hub because i needed more ports for work(you know macbook has only two usb ports haha) my first guess is limited current making hdds spin slower therefore heads crashing to the disk... and then eventually fail? im so dumb why did i do this....i shouldve just connected two hdds separately(and maybe all the other peripherals on one side).... im now worried about the hdd that might have been damaged by many MANY head crashes... im currently copying files that has been failed before to see if anything got damaged, .... nothing bad so far... should i be worried? thanks for any replies :)
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Hello LTT. This is my first post on this forum, so don't be that hard on me. Edit: I live in Romania I have experienced issues with a PSU. I have been getting shocks through the metallic parts of my keyboard. I tried changing wall sockets, extension chords, places in my room, I even changed the room I sit at my desk in. I just bought a new PSU, thinking it was a PSU issue. But the shocks are still coming through. I am unsure what to do at this point. A few days ago, I unplugged everything from the extension cord and plugged everything back one by one, until I realized it was my monitor interfering with the currents, I then turned on the PSU only for the issue to come back. I haven't touched my PC since I discovered it was dangerous. Thank you in advance!
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I'm facing a weird problem for 2 days. UPS is making clicking noise and pc restarts. but when voltage spikes and ups makes clicking sound doesn't affect the pc. but suddenly ups making that sound and pc restart without any voltage spikes. i'm not sure what is causing this problem. is it psu or the ups? this ups and psu is 10 month old. Currently i plugged in the cpu directly to the wall socket to understand is it psu or the ups. but anyone knows what is causing this problem?
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Recently I got my PC shipped. I took out my Graphics Card and drives (HDD, HDD, SSD). After receiving my system and pieceing everything together, I am receiving an "No bootable" error. So I did what you would usually do. Tried different SATA ports on the motherboard, different SATA cables, and also different power cable plugs incase faulty. What I have noticed now, no matter how I plug in the SSD, when the power supply is turned on and the system is off, the SSD enclousure it is sat in on my PC withdraws current. After closer inspection (taking the enclousure off the case), it seems to have power going through it. It's obviouly not a lot of power, but I did touch it a couple of times and you can feel the power going through my finger. The SSD itself is not metal. Only the 4 screws in the side are metal and could possibly short something out. What should I try? What should I do in this situation?
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Hi everyone! I have a HP Chromebook X2 and a HP Spectre x360 laptop and I would like to know if can use any of the chargers on each device independently of the charging speed. I just don't want to damage them. Both have USB C connectors. These are the specifications for both chargers:--- means a solid line above a dashed lineChromebook charger output: 5V --- 3A, 9V --- 3A, 12V --- 3A, 15V --- 3A.Laptop charger output: 5V --- 3A, 9V --- 3A, 10V --- 5A, 12V --- 5A, 15V --- 5A, 20V --- 4.5AThank you!
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Hey, I've seen these dc step up converters on Amazon and wanted to ask, if I took one of the 4 volt to 400kV units and placed my finger in the middle of the two output contacts, what would happen? Would I get burned or would I get shocked. Can I get shocked with only 5*10^-5 ampere? PS: the current is limited due to using AA batteries Paul
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I'm planning on doing a PC mod soon, and one of the requests from the client is to include a functional car cigarette lighter (it will be for cigarette smoking, unfortunately...I tried to tell him it's a bad idea, but he's paying me to do it anyway). I'm a noob to electronics. I know I can wire a 10 amp ATC fuse in series with the +12VDC leg in series to the back of the lighter socket, but what if I wanted to prevent the lighter from ever drawing more than 9 amps? It will still work, albeit the lighter will heat up slower than it maybe wants to. I don't want the fuse to blow, only as a last resort. It will be very hard to get to, and I don't want the fuse to pop and melt other things in the process, or send shrapnel everywhere. I don't want to use a breaker because they're too slow, and only a few have a chrome dipswitch like P&B's (this is an aesthetic requirement). Interested to know how the circuit would look. I don't know how to calculate resistors or find parts, really. I need help. I just don't want this thing to start on fire or ruin itself.
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Hi, I would like to start a topic i couldn't find in the games forum: What are the best games currently? The games can be old but they need to be among the best even for todays standards. PC games only please. Motivate your answer.
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Hello, I have an RC car Lithium Polymer Battery which I want to use in a robot I'm building, I need to know how much current it has in amps, all I was able to find by searching on the internet was the discharge rate of my battery, I have a Team Orion 8000mAH V-Max Carbon Pro 110C High Voltage Extreme Runtime with the deans connector. If anyone can help me find the current it has so I can find out whether or it's compatible with the rest of my parts. Can anyone help me?
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Hello LTT, nice to see you all again. I bought a motherboard, but it won't boot. See the title Nothing is plugged in however. I don't know why it won't boot. All the pins on the motherboard look fine, and so do the usb ports. The motherboard is an Asus 97m-e and the psu is a Recom PE-M600. Does anyone have a solution to this problem? -
Backstory: PC stopper working one day cause the power cut for a split second. RMA'd the PSU it was broken, got a new one plugged everything in and still didn't work. Brought everything to a computer shop to test, RAM, GPU and PSU(new) are fine. Motherboard is dead. The guy at the shop said since I plugged it into the fucked motherboard their could be a chance of 'back current' to the PSU. He said that if that is the case then if I buy a new mobo and then plug it in it will kill that mobo. Do you guys know if this is true or not, or any advice? Thanks in advance, I just really don't want to blow a new mobo this situation is after costing me too much already. -
I recently ordered the Raspberry Pi 3 which recent reviews of it show it hitting 80°C and even upwards of 100°C when under max load. Now, to be clear, those measurements were taken while the Pi was under a synthetic load (sysbench) with no cooling on it whatsoever. I will probably never even come close to those temps but I still want to air cool it if for no other reason than for the sake of tinkering. So anyway, I planned on air cooling it with a small laptop fan I had lying around. When plugging it into the 5V GPIO pin on my RPi 2, it works flawlessly however it is very loud, high pitched, and VERY annoying to listen to. Changing it to the 3.3V pin fixes this issue slightly but it's not quite what I'd like it to be. I originally hoped to limit the current coming from the pin via a Python script but looking into the GPIO specification of the Pi's, it looks as if there is no actual way to limit the voltage coming from the 5V and 3.3V pins from the Pi itself. Reason being, they're essentially connected directly to the micro USB power supply. My next guess is that I'd have to stick a resistor in between the fan's power wire and the 5V/3.3V pin. In theory, I feel like this would work but idk for sure cause I'm not very knowledgeable in circuitry at all. Another few questions I have are: Is there anything I can do to the fan itself to lower the current it accepts into it? Does anyone know of a way to lower the current coming from the 5V/3.3V power pins on a Raspberry Pi? If going the resistor route, is there anything special I need to look at or are they all the same? Please keep in mind that I'm not looking for "The RPi doesn't need a fan!!!11!!!!!one!!!11!!!!"-based answers. I know it doesn't need a fan and that a small heatsink will do the trick. The whole point of this is for me to learn something about circuitry.
