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Hello everyone, I'm having hope my issue will be resolved with your help I own a pc, it's specs are: MSI z590-a pro Intel i9-11900kf Corsair 32 GB (4x8GB) DDR4 3600 MHz Vengeance RGB Pro Black (CMW32GX4M4D3600C18) Gigabyte p850gm PSU MSI Suprim X 3090 graphics card WD Blue SN570 1tb Samsung 980pro 1tb Samsung evo 870 250gb 6 bequiet coolers silent wings 3 deepcool rgb coolers Bequiet Pure loop 360mm The issue that i'm having, is previously I owned DDR4 2х16GB/3600 G.Skill Ripjaws V Red (F4-3600C19D-32GVRB)G.skill ripjaws V red But decided to "upgrade" to prettier ram because I'm trying to do white build So,with that 2 sticks of 16gb my pc was working fine, undervolted gpu, undervolted cpu, xmp enabled, not much tinkering in bios to be frank After I "upgraded" my ram, I've encountered very weird issue, my pc turns off, I hear psu click, then after couple seconds another click, and it starts back up, each time, no matter how many times you turn it off it comes back on While I had my old ram i tried to remove all Corsair sticks and populate back slots for ram, the issue was not present, the problems that I have are only with this set of ram. I've tried to get back to Corsair about it, maybe they could've helped me, but they just asked for contact info to rma it, which I can't do from Ukraine (also, the ram was bought sealed off, unused so there is no way someone was using it before me) The only workaround I've found is after it powered off, manually turn off psu with a button on it's rear, by doing so - rgb on cpu block and on fans are starting to glow for a splitsecond and turned off, then I hear another click from psu like it's trying to start itself again, another click, and another click, all in a time of about 10-15 seconds. I know some might say it's not that big of a deal and just move on with it, but it's really frustrating, I can't turn it off from my phone anymore because it will just start itself and consume power. English is not my first language, sorry, ukrainian is. Thank you for reading, hopefully someone will find a solution
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- troubleshoot
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Hi There, Just bought RTX 4080S, did i need to replace my current PSU Corsair Hx 750 with the better one ? I had Anxiety with pcie converter from the brand, worry to cause fire and the aesthetic mehhh… or i just buy corsair 12vhpwr ? Is it still support old psu like i had ?
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I’m lost. for the past few days I’ve troubleshooting none stop. Corsair makes a ticket and doesn’t reply afterwards. long story short: I’ve invested in the new iCue Link ecosystem. I changed all my fans plug everywhere, rewire everything. And it’s beautiful. For about an hour or so. the first time it malfunctioned I power cycled my pc and it worked again. Fans were spinning and rgb was working. Next day I power on my pc and nothing. Fans are not spinning and no rgb expect for the strimers I installed on my gpu and mobo and my ram. I power cycle yet again and my corsair fans are spinning at a fixed slow speed. Whatever I do I’m not able to control my speed and my rgb doesn’t work. I reinstalled iCue software multiple times. Checked everything in my bios. Checked the wiring. I contacted Corsair but they honestly have no idea. They just create a “ticket” looking at the logs in signalRGB I can see the Corsair link controller keeps initializing. But that’s where it stops. I do think my controller is either bricked. Or just downright broken. does anyone have older firmware for the controller since force reinstalling the newest one does not help. am I the only one suffering from these issues? end of story. I invested over 400 euros in new fans to keep my pc silent and cool. But now I can’t even play games cause my pc can’t breathe since the fans barely spin. great product Corsair. And an even better customer service!
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I bought a Corsair HX1000i for my new build. It came with the power cable needed for the 4xxx Nvidia GPUs. It only has 2 cable ends to plug into the PSU side, is that enough to power a 4090? The adapter that came with my 4090 has 4 plugs on the PSU side. Everything seems to work fine but I haven't pushed it hard yet. Battlebit on a 4090 doesn't make it work much.
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Specs i9 11900KF Asrock Z590 32gb Corsair Vengeance 1TB NVME Gigabyte RTX 3070 Fans: 6 x QL120, 4 x SP140 Cooling: Corsair Hydro X (softline to CPU Only) 2 Lighting Node Core 1 Commander Pro XT Case: Corsair 7000X Monitors: 32" MSI Optix Desk: Secret Lab Magnus Chair: Secret Lab Next up is to get a 4tb HDD for media storage and a separate 2tb NVMe for game storage.
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Availability for these RAM sticks are pretty shit where I'm from but basically I have a choice between 3200 mhz cl16 ( Part Number CMG8GX4M1E3200C16 ) and 3600 mhz cl18 ( Part Number CMW16GX4M2D3600C18 ). FYI I'm running a 5700x and still not sure Exactly what to get. Assistance is appreciated
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- corsair;
- memory kit
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I have a new 680x RGB showing up in a couple of days, and I am transplanting my system from a Crystal 460. I have 3 HD120 and 2 ML120 PRO RGBs to fill the slots in the new case. I also have a Commander Pro in my current case, I kinda figure I am going to need both, but how do I get it all hooked up and running in iCue?
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I recently bought a 3 pack of corsair LL120 rgb fans, and the fans work beautifully except for the lighting node pro, include with it. If it is plugged into the internal usb 2 connector, my system does not boot, and gives me an “over current” warning that shuts my pc of after 15 secs for protection. Anyone had a similar issue and solved it? Any insight would be appreciated!
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Hello I am new to this and hope that I am not posting this in the wrong category. I recently bought the corsair H100I RGB Platinum SE to instill it on the top of my case. The RAM that I have is too big and doesn't let the cooler fit on the top. I was just wondering if anybody knows if the Corsair vengeance pro RGB SL RAM is small enough to let the AIO fit at the top of the case. The case is a Corsair 220T Airflow and the current RAM that I have is the T group T force RGB. Thanks in advance for any help.
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Hi all, I just built a new pc and its my first time using RGB RAM and i noticed that it was making this noise. I'm not sure if it was normal or not. The video was taken with my pc in sleep mode and when i turn the rgb static the noise is gone. Any help would be awesome. Sorry if the video is hard to hear. Thank you 20210127_183603.mp4
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Hi! Just rebuilt my PC, went from a Corsair Hydro V60 V3 (120mm) to a Corsair Hydro H150i pro (360mm) that i bought from a friend. With the upgrade i switched to a new powersupply (had a old GS600 series PSU), now im running a CX650M instead (site sold them out). Also upgraded to a M.2 SSD together with my 4 other ones (lol). Also switched from a Fractal Design Define S case to a white Lian Li PC-011 Dynamic so i could fit this beast of a aio cooler together with more fans for more badass cooling. Now to the issue in hand, after firing the old bad boy up and thinking "hey lets play some Battlefield 2042 since its out and i got sick ass cooling and new PSU and all" that i noticed that my temperatures where jumping more than a kid on a trampoline in idle and load. Im going from 30 degrees in idle to 70-90 in prime 95. And when i mean jumping i really mean jumping. From one second to another its jumping between 20 degrees on load. So i can sit by the PC, fire up prime 95 and as soon as the stress test loads its up to 70-90 degrees instantly. Same goes for games, fired up Battlefield 5 just to try and see what happens in games. And its the same there, the temp spikes right away. Even in idle the temp can suddenly spike from one core to another (30 to 50 in a millisecond). Full PC setup: CPU: i7 8700k on stock clock (plan was to clock the shit out of it... but yeah) GPU: Asus GeForce GTX 1070 8GB RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB 2133mhz CL13 Cooler: Corsair Hydro H150i PRO RGB PSU: Corsar CX650M Drives: Seagate Barracuda 1TB - OCZ TL100 240GB - Kingston V300 120GB - Samsung 860 Evo 250GB - Samsung 870 Evo 500GB Case fans: 6 120mm (3 intake and 3 exhaust) OS: Windows 10 Home Does anyone have a faintest idea on whats up? Could the pump in the aio cooler be bad? Bad thermal paste? The troubleshooting i have done is reseat the pump/cooler and redone the thermal paste and cleaned the surface (used a grain of rice as measurment which i have always done and it has worked before) Thanks!
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- i7
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Hello! I was wondering if I could get some help with this. I have searched online for similar issues to mine and have done most of the solutions with no success. I have a Ryzen 5 3600 CPU paired with a corsair H100 PRO XT that I just bought and installed. Seemingly in-game I have better temps. With the stock wraith prism I was looking at 68-73 degrees celcius in Warzone rebirth island, and about the same on Battlefield 2042. My idle however is usually around 33-44 degrees. With the Corsair the highest temperature reported in the Warzone rebirth island was 66 degrees celcius by core temp. On startup idle, the temp is usually stable at 58 degrees. After gaming, it stays around 60-64*. I have tried reseating the pump, noting that the thermal paste that it came with was spread evenly and not too thick. I have disabled the QFAN control for the CPU header I have turned the AIO pump within QFAN to AUTO from disabled and made sure that the minimum pump setting is at 100%. I connected the 3 pin connector going off the pump to the CPU fan header instead of the AIO PUMP. I turned the pump speed in icue 4 to extreme, and I have tried my own fan curve, which lowered the temperature below 50, however the fan noise was very loud. Specs: MB: Asus Prime X570-p GPU - RTX 3060 12GB CPU - Ryzen 5 3600 (PBO enabled)
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Budget (including currency): n/a Country: United States Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: n/a Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): Existing parts: Corsair 4000D Airflow White Kraken X73 Corsair SP120 RGB (x6) Question: I'd like to do a stained glass kind of piece that sits behind the 4000D airflow front panel, but the thickness of actual stained glass would prevent the front panel from closing, and I'd rather not cut apart the grid of the front panel to inset everything. Looking for alternative options. I am thinking of using cellophane, but I'm worried that the air moving past it would be like 1,000 tiny tents booming in the wind. Thoughts?
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Hi, finally upgraded my obsidian 1000D with a custom loop and wanted to share the results. It turned pretty nice. Parts for the custom loop are all from corsair hydro x series. I was positively suprised with the quality of all of the elements and how they fit together. In the front i've got 2x 480 fatty rads , coolant sits at 25 C and CPU iddles at 31 with ultra slow fan speed. It's a lot quiter than the AIO config i had before , did not expect it to be this much. One thing i would say the miss is some f-f connections to connect for example two tubes. I had a 48 cm distance between cpu and front rad to cover and had to do it in the simpliest possible way.
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Well my desktop started to spit out bluescreens, not very frequently but there is tell tale sign something have to do with RAM. I have the sticks running XMP for the last one and half years in my Aorus X570 Elite with a AMD Ryzen 5 3600. (Ram bought in Nov 2019) Date | Error message | Stop Code 4/14 MEMORY_MANAGEMENT 0x0000001A 4/12 MEMORY_MANAGEMENT 0x0000001A 4/12 PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA 0x00000050 4/5 KERNEL_DATA_INPAGE_ERROR - 0x0000007A 3/22 FAULTY_HARDWARE_CORRUPTED_PAGE 0x0000012B 3/8 MEMORY_MANAGEMENT 0x0000001A I went and test the Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro using Microsoft's Memory tester and the sticks failed the test. Windows report really don't have anything more than "its broken"... So then I used MemTest 86+ (v8.3) and it got bombarded with 10000+ So much so the MemTest stopped the test... (See report MemTest86-Report-20210414-171233) (Note stick -440 is in Slot B2 and -441 is in Slot A2, these two are the slots should be populated first and allows ) Then I removed one of the two sticks (-440 from Slot B2) and found out the cuprite is -441 in slot A2 (See report MemTest86-Report-20210414-212128) To make sure -440 is good, I took -441 out and plug -440 back to its original B2 slot, the ram Passed the test (See report MemTest86-Report-20210414-235434) To make sure the slot A2 isn't at fault, I pulled -440 out from B2 and installed in A2 (which was -441's initial slot). It passed a pass of test so I decided that should be enough to conclude Slot is good. And lastly I tried plug in both sticks in but in reversed the slots -440 is in Slot A2 and -441 is in Slot B2 and no surprise they failed the test... Note fault address had shifted, as expected when ram physical location changed. (See report MemTest86-Report-20210415-031012) * As I typing this post I tried to run the test again, within first pass, it already give me 8000+ errors, mostly in 1EDBA**** address range.(I guess one of the chip on the stick is busted...) With this much testing, I think I can conclude the fault is in the Corsair Ram instead of my Mobo/CPU? I don't have another set to switch out and test. MemTest86-Report-20210414-171233.html MemTest86-Report-20210414-212128.html MemTest86-Report-20210414-235434.html MemTest86-Report-20210415-031012.html
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So i am in the process of building my new rig and the fans came in, and tried them all out to see if they work. I plugged them on one by one, and i think they defaulted to max rpm on my X470 PRIME PRO. Was wondering if i could buy a commander pro, use a few splitters (2 fans for each commander header, just to be well within the 1A limit) and control them all with iCUE. On the Corsair page https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Fans/ml-pro-led-config/p/CO-9050041-WW#tab-tech-specs it says, iCUE compatibility - NO. Would the 10 fans - 1 commander with a few splitters work if i want to control them with iCUE, or should i do it some other way?
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Hi everyone i have an issue with my corsair lightning node core my computer recognizes the lightning node and do does icue but the fans are spinning since they connected directly in the motherboard PWM plugs but they're not lighting at all correctly. Some of them have green hues, one has green and blue and the back one has red. the side ones and not even lighting up. i went by process of elimination and thought it was the usb 2 port but if it was then the node would not show up in icue and that also eliminated the motherboard out of the equation. Now luckily i had another node core on hand and same issue the computer detects it and it shows up in icue but nothing on the fans colors and lighting. everything is up to date, i tried all the icue versions that i could download and they all gave the same results. i have a strip that connected on the board and it works fine. The fans are spinning so there's at least that but i thought either the fan's LEDs died during the first boot due to voltage spike or there just bad fans. Does anyone else knows what i could try? Thanks ps. i put a specs image in case you need referrence
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My pc is not booting when I put the rams in dual channel mode. (SLOT 2 AND SLOT 4). The only time it boots is when I have the ram in slot 1 and 2. All slots worked fine..Not working with G.Skill and Kingston.. My specs Asus TUF gaming + B450-latest bios Ryzen 7 2700x Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO-3200Mhz 2x8GB Sapphire nitro + RX 590 8gb
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Specs: Corsair Vengence Pro Rgb 32gb (2x16) 2666 Cl16 ryzen 5 2600 + hyper 212rgb Asrock B450 steel legend Corsair cx 450w psu from 6 years ago crucial bx 256gb boot drive 970 strix Corsair 220t keeps everything cool. The problem: I wanted some free preformance so I decided to oc the ram. The CPU was still on stock settings. I started with standard xmp, and then kept xmp enabled and pushed the speed up, ran 3dmark timespy cpu test, then up the speed again. It started to not post past 3200mhz with the timings reduced to cl14 (-2 on all) so I reset the CMOS and got it running at either 3066/cl14 or 3000/cl13 with the voltage set to 1.3 up to 1.37. I alao set the SOC voltage to 1.3 manually. This would boot perfectly and make it through 45mins ish of use before restarting, but not posting with the fans on full speed. I could hold the power button down and it would shut down then boot up as normal again. I kept gradually reducing settings untill I got back to the stock xmp with cl14 and it would still do it so I cleared the cmos again and just enabled xmp and touch wood it hasnt done it again. Occaisonally it would take a few attempts to post at first with new settings. I dont want to buy new ram again, my first thought is to get a better psu, would that make a differance?
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I have recently bought a new case for my computer as i have gotten new (and used) parts. The Spec Delta case came with fans that display one colour but are required to connect to some port in which i have no idea where to find (See Spec Delta RGB cable picture). I have bought a Corsair Command Pro Hub as well as 3 more corsair fans as i needed more fans and cooling as well as more connect. With those 3 new fans, a lighting hub was included but said hub is in-compatible with the cables shown. The instructions on the case itself states that these should be connected to a 12 v connector on the motherboard. The motherboard i am using is a Gigabyte GA-Z97X-Gaming 3 and so far, we haven't found any port that is compatible with the cables. Furthermore, the instruction video on the RGB cable (at around 0:18) by corsair is pointing me towards finding a JRBG 1 port on the motherboard itself but i cant seem to find this port. At this stage, i am very confused as to what to do or what to find. How do i connect these cables to my system? (Ill edit this post in-case more details are required).
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PC COMPONENTS FOR THE BUILD : --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- CPU : AMD Ryzen 5 3600X Upto 4.4GHz 6 Core 12 Threads AM4 Socket 35MB Cache Desktop Processor with Wraith Spire Thermal Solution (100000022BOX) MOTHERBOARD : GIGABYTE B550M DS3H (AM4 AMD/B550/Micro ATX/Dual M.2/SATA 6Gb/s/USB 3.2 Gen 1/PCIe 4.0/HMDI/DVI/DDR4/Motherboard) GPU : Gigabyte Nvidia GeForce RTX 2060 OC 6GB GDDR5 Graphic Cards (GV-N2060OC-6GD) RAM/MEMORY : XPG ADATA GAMMIX D30 DDR4 8GB (2x8GB) 3200MHz U-DIMM Desktop Memory -AX4U320038G16A-SR30 STORAGE (OS) : Crucial BX500 240GB 3D NAND SATA 2.5-inch SSD (CT240BX500SSD1) STORAGE 1 : Western Digital 1 TB HDD (I have this one already from my old pc) STORAGE 2 : Seagate Barracuda 500 GB HDD (I have this one as well) CASE : Corsair Carbide SPEC-05 Mid-Tower Gaming Case - Black ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Questions : 1)Will I be fine with the stock cooler ? 2)Will I be fine with the mobo, what i mean is will i require a bios update ? 3)Should I wait for November 5 and go for the Ryzen 5 5600X ? 4)Is that memory any good ? 5)Is the gpu good with this cpu or the upcoming 5 5600X ? 6)Main Question : What psu should i get ??
- 16 replies
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- rtx 2060
- ryzen 5 3600x
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Hi everyone, I am building my first PC and ran into a snag. Everything is up and running except for two RGB light strips I wanted to add: Does anyone know how I connect my 3-pin light strips to my 4-pin commander core? Or is there another way to hook them up? The light strips are the iCUE LS100 (250mm x2 expansion kit). They have some sort of 3-pin connector. The hub is the Commander Core (the one that comes with the cappelix water cooler). The RGB ports on the hub are the ones that work with fan RGB like the QL120.
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I will start with the spec of my PC ( 3 Years Ago ) : AMD Ryzen Threadripper 3960X Asus ROG ZENITH II EXTREME Asus GeForce RTX 2080 TI Asus ROG RYUJIN 360 --> Changed after 6 month to NH-U14S TR4-SP3 Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut 3x Corsiar MP600 1 Tb NVME G.Skill DDR4 Trident-Z 4x16GB 3600Mhz RGB F4-3600C16Q-64GTZN Asus ROG-THOR-1200P PSU Windows 10 PRo after like less than 1 week it start to get problem with one of the nvme low read speed then not getting discoverd after booting then stoped working at all so RMA get new one 3 month later other one stop getting recognised after a windows bluescreen so RMA get new one and same happen with the 3rd one after just nowmal use all my drive have never reached TBW more than 10 TB. i only use this pc when i am at my home office and that is every 2-3 week for 5-6 hour max. and today same happen again nvme can't read of write on it so need to be RMA . Any advise about what to do i am getting crazy from this probleem.
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Hey guys, I have a 2-in-1 question, so first up let me ask this: What are your opinions on Corsair iCue ML140 RGB Elite fans, especially for radiator use? I can't seem to find that many reviews of them. I was thinking of replacing stock fans on my H115i RGB Plat, but then again, those stock fans are ML140 Pro's so is it even worth it? Reading into tech specs it would seem that Elite's have a little less airflow max. airflow - ~83CFM vs Pro's 97CFM - whilst being quieter - 32 vs 37dB - and slower - 1600 vs 2000RPM. I don't really see any difference between blade designs, apart from AirGuide technology which supposedly "increases static pressure and concentrates airflow". Can anyone confirm or link me a review or something? Just curious. So now for the second part of this question: I'm switching from Enthoo Pro M to Eclipse P500A. My current cooling setup is H115i with stock fans as intake (Balanced performace mode) at the front with triple ML140 Pro's as exhaust (2 top 1 back, locked at ~1000RPM). Current temps on mild OC in Enthoo Pro M are as follows: CPU (3700X) 32' idle, 59' load, GPU (5700XT Nitro+) ~55' idle, 71' load. The GPU however, is mounted vertically on Phateks' own bracket, around ~3 inches from side glass panel. I'm planning on putting all three ML140 Pro's as intakes locked at low RPM, since P500A front panel's logic is basically unlimited airflow, with H115i acting as top exhaust. My question is simple - is that enough exhaust or should I buy another ML140 Pro (love those fans) and mount it at the back for better cooling? Oh, and the GPU will still be mounted vertically, but using P500A's own mounting system, so much closer to side panel. Dunno if that's important with that intake potential. TL;DR: 1. Any non-review based opinions on Corsair ML140 RGB Elite fans for radiator use, especially as exhaust? 2. Is exhaust through 280mm AiO acceptable w/ triple ML140 Pro intake fans or should I add another 140mm exhaust fan at the back?
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hi guys i wonder if you can help me with this: i have 6 fans on mi corsair case (4000d airflow), 5 be quiet! pure wings 2 120mm, and one of the included in the case, the corsair one is in the front in the middle, i buy a new gpu and im concerned about temps, should i change the corsair one to the rear spot for exhaust and the be quiet one to the front to intake? or i should keep it as it is? there is no much info about the corsair fan (other than is 1300rpm) hope someone could help me