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Hello Everyone, My mic stops working randomly whenever I'm playing Escape From Tarkov with friends. We use Discord to communicate and everything goes well until randomly my mic will just stop working completely. I tried connecting back to the call and re-launching Discord but that doesn't help. The only way I get my mic working again is by unplugging it from USB port and plugging it back in. I thought that maybe the headset is the issue so I went ahead and borrowed my friend's one. I encountered the same issue today and have no idea what is causing this. The headsets I've tried are Logitech G Pro X (wired) and Corsair Virtuoso XT (wireless). Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank You! P.S: The issue seems to be on my PC. I haven't encountered this issue on my laptop as of yet.
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Hello all, this is my first post on the forum and I was looking for some suggestions for my current build. Current specs are as follows: CPU: Ryzen 7 5800X3D GPU: Gigabyte Aero OC 4070 Super Ram: GSkill Trident Z Neo 3600 Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix B-550A AIO: Corsair H150i Elite Capellix PSU: Thermaltake GF1 850w SSD: Samsung 980 Pro 2tb HDD: (2x) 2tb Dell server grade HDDs Case: Corsair 5000x w/ 10 corsair fans I've just upgraded the GPU recently and AM5 is on my horizons along with PCIE Gen 5. But I can't seem to let go of the 5800x3d yet and have to upgrade the motherboard, cpu, and ram. Also the mobo, ram, psu, and aio are about 3 years old at this point so I guess those would be my main upgrade points.
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I’m updating my computer and I had to buy an additional PCIe cable, but comparing those that came with the PSU vs. the new one I can see the first pins(from left to right) are empty vs not empty, as seen in the pic, the individual sleeved cable is the new one, the single sleeve cable is the original, the PSU is a corsair AX860, no the ax860i, is a previous version I think, Is it ok to use this cable? is this different to be worried about? ax860 is platinum https://www.corsair.com/us/en/p/psu/cp-9020044-na/ax860-atx-power-supply-860-watt-80-plus-platinum-certified-fully-modular-psu-cp-9020044-na#tab-techspecs and according to legacy compatibility https://www.corsair.com/ca/en/s/legacy-psu-cable-compatibility or I don't know how to read that table...
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After a reasonably long thread with various parts being changed out, as I did on my home workstation, I am starting a new thread to show the final itteration of this build. It has had 3 different motherboards in it, 2 different CPUs and various other changes so this is the final version of this build - the next work PC will be a scratch build, which hopefully won't be for some time! Like my home workstation, it is totally overkill but will hopefully facilitate some flexibility on the tasks its put to use on in the future. And so to the specs: CPU: Intel i9 9900kf Motherboard: Gigabyte Z390 UD RAM: HyperX 64gb (4x16gb) DDR4 3000MHz CL15 GPU: Asus TUF Gaming RTX2060 6GB GDDR6 Case: Cooler Master MasterBox E500L Red Storage (OS) Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB / (Data) Samsung 850 EVO 500GB PSU: Corsair RM650x 80 PLUS Gold 650W Display: Philips 273V Cooling: Noctua NH-D15 + 3x 120mm Noctua case Fans Keyboard: MS Wired 600 Desktop Mouse: MS Wired 600 Desktop Sound: Onboard HD Audio Operating System: Win 10 Pro 64 Bit Benchmarks: CPU-Z: https://valid.x86.fr/nmrjwx Passmark: https://www.passmark.com/baselines/V10/display.php?id=136242114873 Basemark GPU: https://powerboard.basemark.com/benchmark-result/920970 3DMark Time Spy: https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/58074465 3DMark Time Spy Extreme: https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/58074852 PCMark 10: https://www.3dmark.com/pcm10/57776223 Blender BMW CPU: https://opendata.blender.org/benchmarks/f6daf753-7cd7-462c-9215-f63307bb01ea/ Blender BMW GPU (Optix): https://opendata.blender.org/benchmarks/fbef3940-1e64-49ff-8561-576854ef33a1/ UBM: https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/39002361 Geekbench 5 CPU: https://browser.geekbench.com/v5/cpu/6267643 Geekbench 5 GPU (Cuda): https://browser.geekbench.com/v5/compute/2345501 Bright Memory - Infinite RTX Benchmark (Max settings @ 1920x1080) FPS: 119 Resident Evil 6 Benchmark (Max settings @ 1920x1080) Score: 29731 Unigine Heaven Benchmark 4.0 DX11 (Exreme settings @ 1600x900) Min/Max/Avg FPS - Score: 9.3/289.4/134.1 - 3377 Cinebench Release 23 Multi Core: 13699 Cinebench Release 23 Single Core: 1367 FurMark Preset 1080 (FHD / Fullscreen): https://gpuscore.top/furmark/show.php?id=276460 Pictures:
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I am looking at getting a Corsair sf450 80 plus gold, the system has a i74790, msi 797m motherboard and 16gb of 2133mhz ram, is this a big enough supply or not.
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Hi, The TLDR of this is: I have TWO brand new Corsair RM1000e PSU's, both of them cause horrendous audio distortion yet very low volume on my old Z170A with 6700K. Reverting to a 650w Corsair fixes the issue EVERY single time. And the weird bit? It (They/Both PSU's!) do the exact same on another (Same model/BIOS etc) MOBO! --------------------------------- The small (Very, very weird!) story and the setup built in 2015/16?: CPU: Intel 6700K. GPU: MSI GTX 1080 Gaming X. >>> PSU: ANTEC EDGE 650W. MOBO: MSI Z170A Gaming M7. RAM: 32GB G-Skill. From when I built it, until a few months ago? All was well, but I got an itch to upgrade the GTX 1080. I bought a 3080TI for decent money and thought...I better think about a PSU upgrade, everything was ruinning great for now. Then while live streaming and going on a smoke break, I turned around to see the whole PC was completely black. Wouldn't turn on, completely dead. The PSU looked to have died, (Man, I loved that ANTEC PSU) Wasn't giving any sign of power to MOBO. Fearing the worst, I wondered if it had taken anything with it. I promptly ordered a new PSU. The Corsair RM1000e. While waiting for it to arrive, I quickly hooked up a spare corsair 650w and tested that everything was alright. Thankfully I was soon watching vids, streams, all the usual. No probs. Just no gaming. The RM1000e turned up. Fitted it. Erm...Every 3.5mm audio out jack sounded horrendous. Horrendously distorted but very, very low volume. Tried different headphones (Inc new pair), different cables. Drivers, man...the damn realtek drivers. Nothing fixes the massive distortion inc on the front headphone jack. The optical out, bluetooth, and the HDMI out audio all sound perfect. I threw the 650w PSU back in, guess what. No audio issues. Back to the RM1000e, audio issues. I requested a replacement. It arrived. Guess what? Exactly...the same issue. I now have two of them here, and both are causing this issue and I'm completely baffled. I have had the 650w IN/OUT/IN/OUT and it replicates the issue/fixes the issue every time. I then presumed it must be the MOBO. Found one used on ebay at £80 quid. It arrived today. Guess what. Yep. Having gone through the nightmare of having my PC in bits all over the house, parts everywhere...I now have a second motherboard, exactly the same model and...Yes. The issue is exactly the same! I'm so tired and confused. EDIT: Not only that, but upon plugging in mouse and keyboard, BOTH got stuck in the second MOBO. I've had this in the past with a cheap case USB port. I got one out with slipping an x-acto knife down the side, but the oither...had to break the little metal tabe off. Brilliant, £80 quid old useless MOBO an the problem still persists! I have been running at bare bones to eliminate things. Simply providing CPU power, GPU power, MOBO power. A single NVME with win10. On the second/same model MOBO, I had to screenshot all my original MOBO's BIOS, copied them to a damn USB stick, stuck em on a tablet, while throwing my CPU in second MOBOa, and then copying EVERY setting except...overclocks. Tried two different GPU's (GTX 1080/3080TI), two exact same motherboards, two brand new RM1000e power supplies. And both are causing the same issue. I am on the machine right now, using the 650w PSU but I won't risk any gaming. The audio on every output is perfect, crisp, clear and loud with this 650w unit, but of course...it's not enough to comfortably run everything. Can anybody please, please suggest what the hell's going on? I've been at this for days now. Why is the RM1000e seemingly incompatible with my setup? In fact, even a second Motherboard with different RAM, different GPU's etc etc. Is it a faulty batch? A batch of bad earths/ground? There's something that's not right
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Just wondering which screws that came with the case is meant the powersupply?? Wish everyone that reads this a lovely Friday Night
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Having the same experience this guy is having, but his problem was never resolved. PC Specs: Corsair Vengeance a4100 Gaming PC Motherboard (MB) - Asus Prime B450 Plus Current CPU - Ryzen 7 3700x What i'm trying to upgrade too - Ryzen 7 5800x3D (NOTE: When i do go through the whole process of updating the bios through USB, i get hit with "Selected file is Not a proper BIOS", yet i get the most recent BIOS from Asus's support page) I'm trying to get any help i can before i have to take it up to a PC place to have them do it for me. So any help is welcome willing to give it a shot. Thank you very much!
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Around this time last year, I put together an i9 9900k based system. See the build log here. Just over a year on, I thought it would be nice to do another. I got too impatient to find some DDR5 - I don't mind paying early adopter rates but I am not giving a scalper a thousand dollars for 32GB RAM. Additionally I like the DDR4 LPX RAM when using the NH-D15, as I can leave the second fan on the "push" side of the cooler. CPU: Intel i9 12900k Motherboard: Gigabyte Aorus Z690 Elite DDR4 RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 64GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR4 4000MHz C18 GPU: Gigabyte Aorus GeForce RTX 3080ti Master 12G Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow Storage: (OS) Samsung 980 Pro 1TB / (Data) Samsung 980 Pro 1TB PSU: Corsair HX1200 80 PLUS Platinum 1200W Display: Gigabyte Aorus FI27Q Cooling: Noctua NH-D15 CPU + 4x NF-A12x25 PWM case fans Keyboard: Aorus K1 Mouse: Aorus M5 / Aorus AMP500 pad Sound: Onboard HD Audio Headset: Aorus H5 Speakers: Creative GigaWorks T40 Series II Webcam: Logitech C920 HD Pro Operating System: Win 11 Pro Will put together in the coming days or weeks depending on what time I get.
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Intro I have updated Home Workstation V3 (even though I said I would do a scratch build next – I am full of BS). The reason for a new thread is the GPU, Motherboard, Monitor, KBD & Mouse are the same brand now so its now a Gigabyte Aorus build and so really is a themed build as opposed to throw a bunch of stuff together from random vendors type-build. In 2019 this was the specification of the ultimate single GPU gaming rig - what a difference a year makes! In 2020, it still can play with the newer CPU/GPUs on AAA titles without being left too far behind. I was thinking about a Gigabyte/Aorus case, cooler and RAM to properly finish off the look but the Corsair and Noctua components do a wonderful job I will leave the build as a trio of brands - a quintet if you include Intel and Samsung! Specifications CPU: Intel i9 9900kf Motherboard: Gigabyte Aorus Z390 Pro RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 64GB (4x16 GB) DDR4 3200MHz C16 GPU: Gigabyte Aorus GeForce RTX 2080 ti Xtreme 11G Case: Corsair 275R Airflow Storage: (OS) Samsung 970 EVO Plus 1TB / (Data) Samsung 860 EVO 1TB PSU: Corsair RM750x 80 PLUS Gold 750W Display: Aorus FI27Q-P Cooling: Noctua NH-D15 CPU + 4x NF-S12A PWM case fans Keyboard: Aorus K1 Mouse: Aorus M3 / Aorus AMP500 pad Sound: Onboard HD Audio Headset: Aorus H5 Operating System: Win 10 Pro 64 Bit Benchmarks Stable CPU all-core OC at 5.1GHz / RAM OC at 3600MHz C16 / GPU using Aorus Engine to set boost to 1900MHz & Memory clock to 16000MHz to achieve the following benchmarks: CPU-Z: https://valid.x86.fr/xwht7d Passmark: https://www.passmark.com/baselines/V10/display.php?id=133093128271 Basemark GPU: https://powerboard.basemark.com/benchmark-result/868105 3DMark Time Spy: https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/55634449 3DMark Time Spy Extreme: https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/55655576 PCMark 10: https://www.3dmark.com/pcm10/53901645 Blender BMW CPU: https://opendata.blender.org/benchmarks/1e1b3d36-1087-49d9-b9b3-2ae177467654/ Blender BMW GPU (Optix): https://opendata.blender.org/benchmarks/3259b48b-b860-46d0-bfc9-4963f5b55bee/ UBM: https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/37545145 Geekbench 5 CPU: https://browser.geekbench.com/v5/cpu/5087816 Geekbench 5 GPU (Cuda): https://browser.geekbench.com/v5/compute/1969429 Bright Memory - Infinite RTX Benchmark (Max settings @ 1920x1080) FPS: 192 Resident Evil 6 Benchmark (Max settings @ 1920x1080) Score: 35039 Unigine Heaven Benchmark 4.0 DX11 (Max settings @ 1920x1080) Min/Max/Avg FPS - Score: 41.8/414.9/198.2 - 4993 Cinebench Release 23 Multi Core: 13607 Cinebench Release 23 Single Core: 1336 FurMark Preset 1080 (FHD / Fullscreen): https://gpuscore.top/furmark/show.php?id=244239 FurMark Preset 1440 (QHD / Fullscreen): https://gpuscore.top/furmark/show.php?id=244240 Pictures
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Hey guys, After 2 weeks of tinkering with my new build I'm officially out of ideas how to fix my issue and I need some help. Said issue - whenever I choose any of the default OC options in BIOS (DOCP I, DOCP II or DOCP Tweaked) I get a blue screen either before Windows login screen or directly after logging in. Sometimes it works for about 5 minutes and then it BSOD's. PC is stable only when Auto is selected which limits RAMs speed to 3600MHz. CPU: Ryzen 9 7950X3D MOBO: Asus Crosshair X670E Hero (latest BIOS 1904) RAM: Corsair Dominator Platinum 4x16GB (SKU: CMT64GX5M4B5600C36) That RAM is on the QVL list. Otherwise system is perfectly stable - no overheating, no other issues. MCR works perfectly, PBO as well and the system loads in about 20 seconds or less I think. I've already tried clearing CMOS more than a few times, flashed BIOS 3 times, did clean Windows reinstall more than 10 times. Had to do all that, because there were times when the PC was at the verge of bricking itself from all the BSOD's. Like I said I'm out of ideas - should I just overclock manually? Can someone tell me how to do that if so? Or are there other ways of fixing this? Bunch of side notes: 1. I tried changing just the memory frequency in BIOS to 5200 and 5600 leaving everything else on auto, seemed more stable, but I don't know if that's safe. I think it only crashed once with that or maybe not even at all. 2. One time I got stuck in a Blue Screen Death Loop - basically couldn't get into BIOS (not responsive) and PC crashed immidiately before Windows login screen. And it just kept doing that over and over until I turned it off and cleared CMOS. 3. Don't ask me what BSOD screen says in terms of an error info - it's a whole catalogue and it's different everytime. I've got at least ~10 different causes. 4. Corsair iCue tends to not see RAM quite frequently (RGBs not syncing and not showing, etc.) even when it's not OC'ed. It works fine for a few days and then either stops completely or sees 1 or 2 sticks. I haven't figured out if it's caused by RAM itself or just iCue acting up.
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Budget: >100 (not including case) What RGB fans should I get, I want them to be ICUE compatible. I have a Gigabyte B450M DS3H mother board and a 5600x. Im playing to upgrade my case to a Corsair 4000D Airflow. What fans should get I. I am including controllers or hubs.
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does anybody know if the rm750e and cx750m cables by corsair, are compatible?? specificly the sata ones
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So I fix my computer by getting it a new motherboard and power supply but now the power supply is tigles. So I turned it off and unpluged it from the outlet. Even after a day, it's still has the feeling in it. How will I remove it with out messing up the other components? Psu is a corsair cx750m
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Hey everyone. I'm looking to buy a nicely built headset for gaming (casual gamer) and wanted to buy something that was wireless. I ended up choosing the Corsair Virtuoso and realized my motherboard doesn't have bluetooth built in... so I'm out here on reddit and google scrounging for half ass reviews of unreliable bluetooth adapters sold on amazon. I'm wondering if this community would know anything about how to set up a good bluetooth connection for my wireless headset? I'm not too picky on the budget (nothing over $150 tho) for a competent bluetooth connection to my pc for a nice gaming experience. I would love some feedback and recommendations on what I should look into and consider buying! Thanks everyone
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Hi All So this issue is completely random, it can happen when gaming, it can also happen when doing something very lightweight. It last happened about an hour ago when I had the log running. I'll get a blackscreen on all 3 monitors, followed by a restart after about 20 seconds. I did run a log since this morning until the issue happened, but honestly I'm not the best at interpreting the logs against which piece of hardware (if it is a hardware issue). Could anyone take a look? Many thanks! Here are my PC's specs (from my profile): CPU AMD R9 3950X Motherboard Aorus x570 Xtreme RAM 64GB Corsair Dominator Platinum CL14 3466Mhz GPU MSI Rtx 3080ti Suprim x Case Lian Li O11 Dynamic XL Storage 3x Seagate Firecuda 520 500gb NVME Gen 4 PSU Corsair HX1200 Display(s) AOC U4309V Cooling Custom hardline loop: 2x360mm Bykski thick radiators, 1x360mm Bykski slim radiator, Coolermaster SF fans HWinfo_2024-01-19.CSV
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Looking at my next build (in a couple months), 7800X3D/7900XTX (that I already have), will use either a Lancool III or an Antec Performance FT1, aircooled (TR PE120) Having a RM850x that I can't tell anything bad about, so I'm looking at Corsair PSUs in the 200EUR/ 1000W range (just to say I upgrade ) But they offer too many of them, which looks all good, all TierA at PSUCultists ! RM1000x 160EUR Cybenetics Platinum/A, but old design not ATX3.0 RM1000e 160EUR Gold/A-, ATX3.0/PCie5, a bit noisier ? RM1000x Shift 210EUR Gold/A, ATX3.0/PCie5, and I like the side connectors as I have a tendency to change/upgrade stuff in my PC. Seems compatible with my case choice HX1000i 230EUR, Plat/A, ATX3.0/PCie5, quality seems one notch above, dead silent, has digital output to ICue (which I hate..) None have a "native" 12VHPWR connector (that I don't need atm), all have enough PCie 8pins connectors Either I go cheap but then I can't see the advantage of the RM1000e vs RM1000x, the new 1000e seems just worse (what does ATX3.0 gives ?), or I can spend 50EUR more for the more practical "side connectors" of the Shift model .. Worth it ? Finally I can spend 20EUR more again for the higher end HX, but can't hardly justify it myself... Any thoughts/experience ?
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Hello everyone.. last month i asked a question here to know the manufacturing date of my old cooler master 850w psu .. and little did i know it was a 13-14 year old psu.. everyone recommended me to change that psu asap.. but i just bought my 3080ti.. I don't have a good budget.. my friend is selling me this cx750f rgb for a good price.. i am attaching a pic of that psu.. can anyone tell me the manufacturing date of that psu.. in old corsair psu we can tell the manufacturing date by looking at the serial no. But i think in newer psu this method doesn't apply.. And also one more question should this psu be enough for my build? Specs: Ryzen 5 5600x RTX 3080ti undervolted to 0.815v (300watt ish) 32gb ddr4 3200mhz cl16 ram And some rgb fans. Serial no. Of cx750f 0316212009802
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I am planning to use the Asus ROG STRIX Z790-E GAMING WIFI II for my new build with a i9-14900k. The plan is to use a Corsair Dominator Titanium 2 x 48GB 6600MT/s CL32 kit. (https://www.corsair.com/us/en/p/memory/cmp96gx5m2b6600c32/dominator-titanium-rgb-2x48gb-ddr5-dram-6600mt-s-cl32-intel-xmp-memory-kit-cmp96gx5m2b6600c32) Now; this specific kit is not shown on the compatibility list (https://rog.asus.com/motherboards/rog-strix/rog-strix-z790-e-gaming-wifi-ii/helpdesk_qvl_memory/) (Make sure it's on 14th gen.) All though the RAM does in theory fit within the motherboard specs for speed and size. I have doubts on how up-to-date/complete the compatibility list is. Based on the list there is only one supported set that can fill the claimed 192GB capacity. On the other hand: The Intel website also only claims "Up to DDR5 5600 MT/s" for the CPU, whilst it obviously can handle much more. So; would it be a safe bet to get this set of RAM in this build?
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Background/Context: I have an older Corsair Strafe RGB (Silent Cherry Reds) from a few years ago that has problems with duplicating inputs when typing, specifically some of the keys will I do not specifically remember spilling liquid on the keyboard, but it is possible and if I did, was likely years ago. It worked for 1-2 years without issue and then started this behavior. I have since already replaced the keyboard with a working one, just trying to see if there is anything else I can do to prevent it becoming e-waste. Steps already taken: 1.) Tried on multiple different machines, Linux + Windows systems, behavior found on both operating systems *(linux is a home assistant pi-based system) 2.) Pulled all the key caps and cleaned with warm soapy water, let air dry for 2 days and replaced. No difference (none really expected, based on behavior) 3.) Pulled board out of the case and deep cleaned it with isopropyl alcohol - don't have microscope or anything like that but upon examining it didn't find any obvious shorts, corrosion, etc. 4.) Tried deep cleaning the switches (they are soldered into the board and not removable) with isopropyl alcohol into the switches, blowing air into the switches and letting them dry completely. -This seemed to help a bit, but eventually duplicated key strokes have returned. Duplication is not on every keystroke, about every 3-4 keystrokes you will get a repeated letter (ss, rr, gg, ll, etc), behavior goes in-between other letters if I type fast enough (ex. Transfer becomes Transfserr) I do not have any solder equipment so I don't really want to invest into equipment and learning. Can anyone think about any other steps I could do to try and make this keyboard more usable? Am trying to replace my crappy Lenovo keyboard provided by work on a work computer as I type a lot and the basic keyboard is horrible.
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Hi I'm planning on a new editing and motion design rig I've already bough a ryzen 9 5900x and a b550 MSi mb Case is 4000d Looking for the psu GPU will be RTX 3060 12GB I was thinking between Seasonic Focus GX 750W and Corsair RM750x. I had the oppurtunity to try the latter for a pc rig and the integrated caps in the cabled really pissed me off. So i was looking for an alternative Not to mention, in italy the seasonic is like 50 bucks cheaper which one should i buy? thanks
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Just putting it out there: Corsair currently has their K63 Wireless on sale (Cherry MX Red) for $50, which is less than half the MSRP. The product page says it qualifies for free shipping but it'll still try to charge you for shipping, so you might need to contact support for that. Context: it seems like this keyboard has been discontinued by Corsair (or so I was told by Corsair support), along with its lapboard pair which apparently can't be found anywhere for a while now. Still a pretty good keyboard for a very good price, so if you're ok with the fact that support will likely be limited going forward, it's a great deal. https://www.corsair.com/us/en/p/keyboards/ch-9145030-na/k63-wireless-mechanical-gaming-keyboard-blue-led-cherry-mx-red-ch-9145030-na
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Ok: most of this build is from April ‘23. - gigabyte x570s Aero G AM4 - ryzen 5700x with Coolermaster hyper212 cooler - 4x 16gb Corsair Vengeance 4 ddr4 - msi 750w power - attached to an APCCS650 ups with new battery. - only the sapphire nitro rx480 is old, as I was trying to keep costs down as low as possible machine has run really well until about 2 weeks ago, when the machine refused to wake from sleep. I managed to restore it by stripping down, q-flash with new bios (sept-23) and it came back to life. same thing happened again last night - refused to wake from sleep. The RGB fan won’t light but the board does power up and get stuck at RAM check. last time I did try cycling through 1 ram stick at a time to restore base service but it would not fire up. im not keen to redo the bios flash process as that feels like it’s the wrong place. Before I dive into resetting cmos and trying again…. How would others approach?
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So i built my pc a few days ago using the asus tuf b550-e wifi motherboard, thermaltake 20mt case with rgb fans and corsair vengance pro rgb ram, i installed the icue for corsair lighting, installed the patch for the lighting for the ram to work with aura sync and it did, the problem being that it doesnt start on startup, i have to open icue, then open aura sync, they link up, close icue and then set up the coloring, and of course it works but is there a way of making it work from the start? maybe deleting icue? idk
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Hello, i build a new PC and have bad Frame Times (Stuttering) in all games. PC: Mainboard: GIGABYTE X670E AORUS MASTER RAM: CORSAIR Vengeance DDR5 RAM 64GB (2x32GB) 6000MHz CL30 AMD Expo iCUE CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 7950X3D CPU Cooler: Corsair iCUE H150i RGB ELITE Liquid CPU Cooler (360) (Top exhaust) GPU: GIGABYTE AORUS GeForce RTX 4090 MASTER 24G PSU: Corsair HX1500i PSU M2-SSD: Corsair MP600 PRO XT (1TB) (OS Windows 11, 23H2) M2-SSD: Corsair MP600 PRO XT (2TB) (Games) Case: Corsair Airflow 5000D Case Fans: 4x Corsair Elite 120 (3 Front intake , 1 rear exhaust) BIOS: Version: F20a All Default except: RAM EXPO1 Profile Aktiv Onboard GPU Disabled. Headset: Corsair Virtuoso XT Headset Stand: Corsair ST100RGB Keyboard: Corsair K95 RGB Platinum Mouse: Corsair GLAIVE RGB Mousepad: Corsair MM700 RGB Monitors: Alienware AW2723DF (Primary) Alienware AW2724HF (Secondary) i play on 2k resolution. I've tried so many things (Bios, Windows, Drivers, Settings) that I can't list them here! as a Troubleshoot i put all Equipment on a Online UPS: PowerWalker VFI C LCD 3000VA Which helped a little bit. I thank everyone in advance for any help! Here some Data i collected With MSI Afterburner, CapFrameX, LatencyMon, Cinebench 2024, CPUz, GPUz, CrystalDiskMark 8 Cinebench 2024 This Was Captured while playing the second session on Halo Infinite (MSI Afterburner) MSI Afterburner Halo Infinite Frametime From 2 sessions: Rocket League Frametime From 1 session: CapFrameX: Cyberpunk 2077 Raytracing,DLSS Ultra Cyberpunk 2077 Ultra Halo Infinite Ultra RocketLeague Ultra Starfield