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Found 17 results

  1. So, until this morning everything was working fine. That's when I noticed a slight bend in my GPU when I decided to take off the case window and fix it. The PC was turned on at that moment and I was able to fix it. That's when I noticed some light dust on the top of the GPU backplate, I then proceeded to brush the dust away. Sure enough I was able to do it, but upon my last brushstroke, I either touched a connector or a pin or a circuit or something and my PC abruptly turned off. My impulse was to check the surge protector on the wall socket and it was fluctuating for a bit. I removed all electronics from it (monitor, speakers and PSU power) and tried it to plug it in directly to the wall. It still wouldn't boot properly, just would intermittently have power for a second and turn off momentarily. I have tried to reset CMOS on my motherboard by removing the battery. The video I have posted is immediately after resetting CMOS. Power is being drawn directly from the wall. PC turns in intermittently, mobo, fans, GPU etc. Only the PSU fan doesn't turn on at all. My guess is that the PSU's days are done. Any thoughts, suggestions? Specs are listed in my profile.
  2. Hi guys I made a post a while back about my tx650m being the loudest thing in my system at idle, which is still true, but it has definetely gotten louder and the fan is spinning faster than before and I cannot for the life of me figure out why. It's just loud and annoying It's loud enough that I can hear it whir a bit through earbuds, which wasn't the case before What should I do with it? Try to suck/blow out dust with a vacuum cleaner while holding the fan? And if that doesn't work? Thanks for your advice
  3. I like very much Rm850x but is not available this moment from the supplier... RM850x cost 147 euros RM750i cost 151 euros Which are the differences between RMi and RMx Series Which PSU is better?
  4. Just watched a video review of the Corsair Carbide SPEC 6 PC Case and I was wondering if anyone had bought this case also had a Corsair CX550W PSU or something similar and if so, how well did the cabling fit? Looking at the video, I was so unsure that the cables would actually fit very well...
  5. I am a complete noob so bear with me. I built a new pc a week ago, and the CPU has a decent igpu, so I decided not to buy a dedicated gpu immediately. The psu I purchased was a second hand corsair CS650M, a modular psu. It only came with the 24pin connector, the CPU power connector and a sata power cable. The gpu I have decided to buy is an MSI GTX 970, which requires 2x 6pin connector. Since I don't have the required cables, where can I purchase replacement 6pin cables for my psu (link please) and which ports would I plug them into since the psu only has 2 empty 6pin peripheral ports and 2 6+2 pin slots left. I have included a picture of it for reference. Any help is appreciated.
  6. Hi good day! Can i ask something about corsair psu (vs650) is this good or something pros and cons of this psu? Thanks.
  7. Hi everyone, I am very sad to be posting about this again, but here I am. This post refers: So I bought a new PSU after saving up a bit (I went for a Corsair RM850i so I could run Corsair Link), I installed an AIO water cooler (Antec Mercury 240) to keep temps down, and the problem I posted about above still exists. I am not overclocking at all, but with the new PSU installed my PC still crashes if C-States are enabled. Sometimes on the desktop, but mostly while I game. I run 2 screens and I keep Corsair Link and MSI Dragon Center's hardware monitor on the 2nd screen, and when crashes happen I see nothing unusual in any of the reported temperatures. This time around I tried setting C-States to Auto and disabling C1E. This worked for a bit longer, but my system still crashed, this time on the desktop while I was afk and the system was just idling. Then I tried disabling all C-States from C3 and up, with the same result. Disabling C-States altogether is the only way my system runs 100% stable; my temps are a few degrees C higher with them disabled, and while I can live with things this way I'd prefer my PC to use less power wherever it can for the sake of my power draw and overall temperatures (and thus my CPU's longevity). Weirdly I have issues going into Sleep mode, too - sometimes the system will enter sleep but the PSU and all of the fans stay on and I have to hit the switch on the PSU. This happened with the previous PSU as well (a Corsair HX1000W) and was a big part of the reason I suspected it was the problem. My question to you all is this: Is there anything else I can tweak on my motherboard (an MSI Z390 Gaming Plus) that I am missing that could solve the problem? Ideally I'd like C-States to be enabled and no crashing. Or am I looking at either a faulty board, or - God forbid - a faulty CPU? Memory has all been tested with MEMTEST86 and every stick passed with flying colours, so it's definitely not that. Any and all help/advice would be hugely appreciated. Sorry for the long post, and thanks in advance.
  8. Hello i cannot figure out why the graphics card will not turn on. I think it’s because I am not putting the 6+2 pin correctly but no matter what orientation I put the +2 part my pc won’t start. When end I put the + 2 part my whole pc will not boot up. When I leave the + 2 off I get a message that says turn off the PC and connect the PCIe cables for power. I have the 8 pin and 6 pin connected to my gpu. The 6pin in the gpu only has 6 pin in the psu. The 8 pin in the gpu will not work with 6 or 6 + 2. I have a Corsair rm850x psu.
  9. Hi, My desktop has been restarting randomly at first and every time I try turning it back on, I had to try and press the button multiple times or move the cord for the PSU in order for it to turn back on. I opened the case and tried tightening up everything cos I thought it was just a cable problem but now it wouldn’t start at all. Power button doesn’t work but the LED on it is on. The RGB on the motherboard is on as well. TL;DR Power button LED and motherboard RGB are on but power button doesn’t work at all. PC won’t turn on
  10. Hello Guys. On my last post I asked for suggestions for a new power supply, which after reading all the comments I decided to buy one of Corsair's PSUs. So, Last night I went and bought a CX-650M (Could have bought RM-650x if not for the f***n 20% extra tax I need to pay because my country sucks). The PSU should be good enough for my current system and the new rig i'm planning to upgrade to. But, The problem is, the Current motherboard(Gigabyte 970a-ds3p) has a 4-pin CPU connector, and the PSU comes with a more modern 8-pin one. I know the 8-pin connector can be used on a 4-pin as well(just using 4 out of 8), I tried that, but I cannot connect the 8 pin without breaking it, socket walls on the 4 pin are stupidly wide, would damage the 8-pin connector, possibly break it. Since, the PSU is less than 24 hrs old, i want to avoid breaking it in any way, So I tried searching up for cables that can split the 8-pin into 4+4 in the local market (half of the shores didnt understand what I wanted, the other half who understood, told me to cut the socket and solder connections onto a 4 pin plug). Since, I dont want to damage the only CPU connector I have, my question is: Can I use one of the 8-pin PCI-e connectors to power my CPU? The PCI-e connectors are modular, and I have 2 on them(came with the new PSU) and can replace one since they are available around me. I really want to avoid damaging the only pre-attached 8-pin CPU Connector. Thanks in advance MY CURRENT SETUP: AMD Phenom II X6 1090T Motherboard Gigabyte 970a-ds3p GTX 1050Ti 2x Case Fans 3x HDD 3x RAM sticks Expected Upgrade: Intel i5 8400 Compatible Full ATX Z370 motherboard 2x Case Fans 3x HDD 1x SSD 2x RAM sticks
  11. I am building a new system and have made only one decision so far - the case which is a Corsair Air 460X RGB. I am shopping for a PSU right now and am interested in a high quality unit with a desirable feature set. My power needs should be fully satisfied by a 650 or 750 watt unit with a bit of headroom. The units I am considering are a EVGA P2 or a Corsair RMi or HXI. My primary concern is reliability and secondary concern is noise. Since I am probably going to use a Corsair AIO cooler, the fact that the Corsair units are "Corsair Link" compatible is attractive, while a friend suggested matching power supply and video card brand is a plus and I am probably going to buy an EVGA video card. The reason I am choosing an EVGA video card is because I understand ( hopefully correctly ) that their tech support and service is better than most. They are local to me ( am in So Cal ) AND my friend works there in tech support. - So he may be biased to recommend the matching of PSU and GPU... Question: Is the Corsair link software and corresponding PSU a nice feature or unnecessary headroom? Question: Is there any reason to choose an EVGA PSU because you are using an EVGA video card? Thanks for your thoughts. Paul
  12. Hi all. I'm relatively new to actually building a pc but have some basic knowledge. I have acquired a cx750 psu and thought could work out where to go from there with other components. However it is a minefield of choices for which Mobo etc to go for. I want the tower of for photo storage and multimedia use. If I'm putting the time and money into it would like a relatively powerful unit to use if my interest expands. Also will be running the latest Linux OS from the word go. I don't really intend to use it for gaming but still want a fast and reliable machine. An example would be running two displays, watching a film, downloading files and powering a sound system all together. With multitasking going on but without the laggyness of shop bought units. Any ideas guys and wether this can be achieved without too much messing about? I have thought would like an AMD processor and a Corsair Vengeance Series C70 Mid Tower Case but not much further than that. Sorry if it's not much to go on but we all need to start somewhere eh. Btw I'm uk based so will maybe have different suppliers from other posts seen about builds.
  13. I've made a few posts about this problem I've been having, and only now have I had any real progress in figuring in out, though not in the way I expected. Basically to sum up what already happened, I started getting frame drops in a lot of games ever since I installed new hardware not long ago. I tried a bunch of stuff that never ended up fixing anything. Eventually I brought it over to a friend's house where it seemed like we fixed it (the monitor refresh rate was set too low), but it came back pretty soon when I brought it back home. I brought it back to his house later on, though, and without changing anything it was working fine. I'm no expert but it seems like there's a couple factors to this: I'm using a pretty old PSU with a lot of newer hardware There's a ton more power consumption happening in the room my setup is in relative to the other house I was at I'm in the market for a new power supply anyway, but I wanted to see if anyone more experienced knows if it has more to do with that or the power outlets I'm using. They don't seem to have any problems otherwise, so I'm hoping they aren't to blame considering how much more complicated that would potentially be.
  14. Hello, so i am planning on building my first build mainly for gaming, rendering and doing graphics designs as a hobby. I'm going to overclock it to 4.3 - 5.0 GHz Inform me if there's any bottlenecks and incompatibility I hope it will end up looking quite decent, i'll try to make my cable management look tidy. I want some head room for SLI and overclocking so that is why i want 750w psu Feel free to say your opinion and recommendations. Also i wanted to ask Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 120mm Single Radiator placements. Specs: Case - Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 Mobo - Gigabyte GA-990XA-UD3 CPU - AMD FX8350 CPU Cooler - Antec Kühler H2O 920 Ram - Kingston HyperX 2x4GB DDR3 1600 MHz Graphics Card - EVGA Nvidia GeForce GTX 760 2GB GDDR5 (cheapest one without aftermarket fans) PSU - Silverstone 700W, Strider Essential SSD - Samsung 840 Series 120GB HDD - Seagate Barracuda 1TB 7200RPM -Edit- Would Antec Kühler H2O 920 be a good single radiator for overclocking to 4.5-4.8GHz?
  15. Hello, I have a cx550m PSU from corsair and its making this awful noise all the time... is this normal or do I need to make a warrenty claim. Is my PSU just s**t? Here is what it sounds like: https://youtu.be/yWEqwXjreXE
  16. Guest

    psu for a build

    hay guys so i want to build this pc but i want to know if this is a good psu thanks for your time Type|Item|Price :----|:----|:---- **CPU** | [Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor](http://pcpartpicker.com/product/tdmxFT/intel-cpu-bx80662i76700k) | $319.99 @ Newegg **CPU Cooler** | [Corsair H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler](http://pcpartpicker.com/product/CrDzK8/corsair-cpu-cooler-cw9060025ww) | $104.99 @ Newegg **Thermal Compound** | [Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste](http://pcpartpicker.com/product/6RrG3C/arctic-silver-thermal-paste-as535g) | $6.88 @ OutletPC **Motherboard** | [MSI Z170A GAMING M5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard](http://pcpartpicker.com/product/F9Gj4D/msi-motherboard-z170agamingm5) | $152.98 @ Newegg **Memory** | [Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory](http://pcpartpicker.com/product/TBPzK8/kingston-memory-hx424c15fbk416) | $81.59 @ SuperBiiz **Storage** | [Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive](http://pcpartpicker.com/product/FrH48d/samsung-internal-hard-drive-mz75e500bam) | $157.89 @ OutletPC **Storage** | [Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive](http://pcpartpicker.com/product/MwW9TW/western-digital-internal-hard-drive-wd10ezex) | $47.49 @ OutletPC **Video Card** | [MSI GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card](http://pcpartpicker.com/product/gRvZxr/msi-video-card-geforcegtx1080foundersedition) (2-Way SLI) | $698.99 @ SuperBiiz **Video Card** | [MSI GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card](http://pcpartpicker.com/product/gRvZxr/msi-video-card-geforcegtx1080foundersedition) (2-Way SLI) | $698.99 @ SuperBiiz **Case** | [NZXT S340 (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case](http://pcpartpicker.com/product/tD38TW/nzxt-case-cas340wbr1) | $64.99 @ SuperBiiz **Operating System** | [Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit](http://pcpartpicker.com/product/wtgPxr/microsoft-os-kw900140) | $89.00 @ B&H **Software** | [Kaspersky Anti-Virus 2016 (1 Year Subscription) Software](http://pcpartpicker.com/product/hLPzK8/kaspersky-software-794504890150) | $29.98 @ OutletPC **Software** | [Sony Movie Studio 13 Suite Software](http://pcpartpicker.com/product/DHzZxr/sony-software-smst13099esd) | $139.95 @ Dell Small Business **Wireless Network Adapter** | [TP-Link TL-WN725N USB 2.0 802.11b/g/n Wi-Fi Adapter](http://pcpartpicker.com/product/wQmLrH/tp-link-wireless-network-card-tlwn725n) | $7.99 @ Newegg **Other**| GPU Paint| $10.00 **Other**| GPU Sand paper| $15.00 **Other**| Rosewill tool kit| $15.00 **Other**| Screw driver magnetizer| $2.00 | *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* | | **Total** | **$2635.70**
  17. While i am building a budget pc, the corsair cx430 is on of the cheaper modular psu's which is what id rather have, i have read some review, and some are good, some not so good. i mean the cx430 has a 4.5 star rating overall on newegg or amazon i beleive, but there were a few reviews saying that the psu "blowing up" or frying or whatever. ex: "Built the computer plugged it in and posted then it rebooted and the asus motherboard bios said it has protected my computer from a power supply surge. Sure enough it turned right back off and the smell of burning electronics filled the air. Stay away from these cheap power supplies. Sent the upc in for the rebate so im sure they wont take it back" << quoted on of the comments ive read and there were a couple more like that, and it was enough to worry me and look around for a different psu, but like i said i am on a budget, and was recommed to this site for forum so i feel that i will be able to trust the input here over anywhere else.
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