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Showing results for tags 'corrosion'.
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Hi all! Just got the rads for my second ever water cooled build, 3x Hardware Labs Nemesis 420 GTXs, and was surprised to see a bunch of reddish/orange stuff down the ports. I'm aware that all rads need to be flushed to remove flux and other manufacturing residue, but this seems a bit weird? It's been a few years since my last build, but I don't recall the rads I used then (EK CoolStream XE 360, Hardware Labs Nemesis 280GTS XFLOW) looking so dirty. The reddish/orange rust/corrosion looking stuff in particular is concerning to me. In each rad one of the ports (the more recessed one) looks a lot worse, with much more orange stuff. The other one has some orange, but mostly just silver drops that I assume are flux or some other manufacturing gunk. I see a lot of posts elsewhere answering similar questions saying it's normal, but the reasoning fluctuates wildly. Most say it's just normal copper oxidation but then proceed to say that would be green where this looks more like iron rust (red/orange). I guess it starts reddish and changes to green over time? I got all 3 rads brand new from the same vendor and they all look more or less the same. The boxes were pretty dusty like they've sat around a long time. One other strange thing was the specs on the back of the box had one line covered up with black tape. I took the tape off and saw the covered up line says "Custom Dark Matter™ high quality finish", which is what they list on the HWLabs site. The rads do not have the same textured finish shown on the HWLabs site. It's a very smooth, matte black. That's not really an issue for me, but I do find it odd and it makes me wonder if these are old inventory or something? TL:DR; Do these look like normal ports for brand new, unflushed rads? PS: Sorry that the focus is completely off. Phone will not focus inside the port with enough distance to shine light in so you can actually make out what's in there.
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Hi everyone, is there someone who could share his knowledge with me on the below please? I recently purchased a 970 on marketplace and the card works fine with no stability or high temp issues. As you can see for the most part the card appears to be in good condition. One thing I missed (because there was a backplate on the card) is this brown stain residue on the back. I can't tell if it's corrosion, flux residue or something else. It does not look like anything I was able to find online... I have tried cleaning with 99.9 Isopropyl Alcohol and cotton swabs / microfiber cloth but none of it has gone away. This thing is rock solid... I tried a plastic scraper very gently on a small line to see if I can scratch the surface and nothing, it will not go away.... The front side of the GPU has no visible issues whatsoever. Any suggestions??
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I recently got a couple broken consoles that I've been repairing to learn more about electronic internals, and I have a SNES that looks like it got water damaged (best guess). The top layer of the PCB, the green coating flaked off and theres some exposed copper. Is there something I can coat that with to prevent issues, or would the whole board be a write off at this point. None of the traces seem damaged.
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Recently got a few rads (copper fins/brass tubes) that had been used with distilled water (and only distilled water) briefly and then were poured out and left sitting around for a long time (maybe a year total). They all have this white residue near the fittings- in the rad in the pictures I've attached, clear tubing had been left attached the entire year, and the whole tube has the same kinda white looking residue all along the remaining tubing. I got in there with a cotton swab and scraped at it, and the swab came out brown, so the residue makes the tubing and fittings look cloudy, but leaves a brown residue on the cotton swab. Could it have been from the rads themselves when any leftover water inside evaporated? My understanding is that they were barely used and just sat around in a cabinet- no way for much really to fall down into the tubes... They were used for less than a week before going into storage. Any advice or thoughts on what it is or how to clean it? My CPU/GPU blocks are nickel/copper. Was going to use distilled water/biocide in the loop this weekend. Thanks for any ideas!
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Bought a brand new 3080 msi ventus oc, a friend of mine received it and mounted for me since i wasnt at home at the time. So far it has been running fine, maybe a bit hot on games like rdr2 or benchmarks (max temp 81º). A few days later i bumped with a video about gpu corrosion and thought tha the color looked similar to the 3080 picture my friend sent me. And now im in doubt if its corrosion or what, its a sticked into the part of the heatsink showed in the picture (not at all in any place that my vision can reach), i can only take it off by scratching it with my nail. What could this be? Should i be worried? if this helps, when i runned the heaven benchmark for 30 min it didnt surpass 81º and had no problem at all (so far) You can see it going drom the msi logo on the left to the right in the down of the heatsink. -
Any input is appreciated! About a year ago I *think* my aio leaked onto my gpu, and caused it to malfunction. Being a college student and unable to troubleshoot, I chose to let it dry for multiple days before plugging it back in. Once dried, I plugged it back and it worked for a bit before going to a black screen, coming back on, black screen, back on... Eventually never coming back on. What's interesting is that the VGA light on my mobo (B350 Arctic Tomahawk) would come on for a bit but eventually turn off and it appeared as if the system was functional, just no display. I replaced it with a 1650 until I can buy a new one. WELL... Yesterday (about a year later), I took it out of it's box and was presented with a fair amount of corrosion. Thanks to the recent video on dead gpus' (thanks Alex), I decided to clean off the corrosion with a soft, dry toothbrush until most of it was off. I was able to use ddu, and reinstall correct drivers but after a while it exhibited the same behavior as a before when with the on off on off. Any ideas on what to do? Or should I sell as a *deadish* gpu?
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I've made a terrible mistake, and probably ruined half my rig. This morning, I delidded my 6700k and replaced the TIM with liquid metal. I decided once it was mounted that I might as well use the liquid metal on top of the IHS as well, as I didn't think that the cold plate of my asetek liquid cooler was aluminum. All is well. I take benchmarks, temps are all down 20 degrees Celsius. I feel good. Fast forward to midnight tonight, and I hear some bubbling coming from my computer while it's running. I immediately turn it off, but when I take off the side panel, I can see that the damage is done. My pump has leaked, and there is a grey bubbling goo covering my nvme ssd, motherboard, and the connector section of my 1080. I immediately unplug everything, take off the cooler, take out the graphics card and ssd, and clean everything. It does not look good. Everything is covered in this wet bubbling goo, that quickly turns to white powder once dry. I realize that I've made a fatal mistake and that the cold plate on my asetek cooler was in fact aluminum. This entire day, it has been corroding. I cleaned off everything. I have no hope for the motherboard but I pray that my graphics card survived. Anyways. I have another computer to test the graphics card in tomorrow. Is there a possibility that the maybe damaged graphics card will damage the good motherboard? F's would be appreciated.
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So cleaning my entire system as I'm going to be vertically mounting my new GPU when it gets here (Will also post pics of that as well. drilling into my inwin 808 case and it should be rather sick). Anyways! Cleaning the loop... Gone for a good 18 months or so without a cleaning? It was running distilled water and a few drops of PT Nuke. This is the inside of my rad. I've alread let it soak with 4 parts distilled water and 1 part white vinegar with 5% acidity for 2 hours before rinsing out with distilled boiling water a good 5 times. So yea, this is what the inside walls look like. Upon flushing the rad, I got ZERO gunk coming out... I mean the odd black spec here and there which looks like flux but I mean, I got no significant deposits coming out at all... so am I good? All pics online of oxidation look black but this seems more brown? Just to experiment, I scratched the inside with a nail, just to see how easy this stuff is to remove. You can see the scratch so yea, whatever this is comes off relatively easy. The fittings have it as well and I was able to scrape it off with my fingernail. So yup, all you veterans who've done this before, please, give me your knowledge and thoughts =)
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Hey guys so i bought 2 480's the other day with Aquagrafx blocks (idc how old they are i love them) and i noticed that there was a little bit of copper corrosion on the water outlet and i was just wondering if i should run some sort of inhibitor(the auto grade premix stuff) or just run distilled water as normal. ive no idea what these blocks were ran with in the past. cheers guys.
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So, it's now 7 months ago that I built my very first watercooling loop. Everything went great, no leaks or anything. A few days ago I noticed that my water was turning grey/black. So I look at my tubes, and my blocks. And I see something green in there. At first I think its algae, and I take it apart to clean it. That's when I notice that its not algae, but rather what appears to be corrosion on the CPU block. What can be done about this? Do I need a nickel block? It was way worse, but I washed it off to get a better view.
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I was looking at my mouse the other day after I noticed the scroll wheel started to feel a bit nasty under my finger. Upon closer inspection, the metallic finish is rippled and bubbling, appearing to be corroded. Is this fixable? Can I get a replacement? Would it be better to install a new wheel?
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So I've just ordered a 1080 ti ArcticStorm edition, and its arriving tomorrow, but im a bit worried. https://www.zotac.com/us/product/graphics_card/zotac-geforce-gtx-1080-ti-arcticstorm It mentions a direct copper contact, but doesnt say what the block is made from. However, on the previous model for the 1080 arcticstorm, it says that its a "lightweight aluminium block".....aluminium.....in a watercooling block with a direct copper contact: Surely this is just a recipie for a nice big corroded hole in the block? edit: Just got an email back from zotac. The block is nickel plated copper. The backplate and silver accent on the cover is aluminium -
Some paint seems to have chipped off on the inside of 4 of my EKWB 90 degrees angled fittings, are they still safe to be used? or will it corrode my other stuff?
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[Note: I have a similar post on overclock.net. I'm kind of under time-pressure to get my system fixed, hope this is OK.] I neglected my loop for a couple of years. Yeah, I know, I'm a rotten loop-daddy - but there was so much going on in life, and ... yeah. All of a sudden, my pump started having trouble. When I opened the system up, I discovered that the tubes had turned dirty yellow, the rad was blocked with greenish stuff, and when I looked above the waterline in my res, I found this: Have a look: https://goo.gl/photos/25W5faotjWpjBE4L71) What would you say this stuff is? Algae? Flux from my rad? Plasticizer? 2) How would YOU recommend cleaning it out? More information:- I DON'T have any aluminum in my loop AND I've been using Mayhems fluid with anti-corrosive & anti-bacterial juice, so it shouldn't really be my problem. But it's obviously SOMETHING!- Here's what's in my loop: Fluid: Mayhems Pastel UV White Tubes: Masterkleer PVC 13/10mm Fittings: Koolance GPU: Aquacomputer Kryographics GPU blocks CPU: EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ Pump: Aquacomputer Aquastream XT Res: Aquabox Reservoir Rad: Magicool 3x180mm Plans so far:Back when I first built the loop, I may have cut some corners on cleaning out the rad. Just dumped in a couple tea kettles of hot water, then poured it out. So I'm thinking that I really ought to do the following: Give my rad the Mayhems Blitz Part 1 treatment. Put the open reservoir in the dishwasher to clean out the green residue. Build the loop back up with fresh tubing (EK-DuraClear). Run the loop with Mayhems Blitz Part 2 before flushing with distilled water and filling with new fluid. Think that'll be enough? -
My computer keeps beeping and wont start up ....through trial and error i was able to deduce that my gpu was bad ...i tried a different gpu in the x16 slot and got the same debugging beep,i then tried it in the x4 slot and it worked ....so im guessing both the gpu and pci e slot are bad...can a bad gpu make a pci e slot go bad ? i noticed some green corrosion on the back of my card's pcb...can that corrosion short circuit my gpu and in turn make the pci-e slot go bad? FYI : motherboard asus m5a97 r2.0 GPU: sapphire r7260x ....THANKS IN ADVANCE
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Drained the loop to modify the pump/res mounting and while removing some fittings i noticed the brown smudge or corrosion around a 90 degree fitting. I am using the Mayhem Pastel White premix and a copper water block that I designed and manufactured. The fittings that I'm using are all EK Black Nickel, couple with an EK Coolstream PE and a D5 pump which supposedly do not have any Aluminium parts. What could be the problem?
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So there are white stuff on top of my gpu heatsink. I personally think that it's somekind of corossion and I don't know how to get rid of it. I've tried some metal solutions but nothing works. Have any suggestions? Thx in advance
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So I recently have bought a gtx 670 in a store called CEX, It looked fine, used, and when I got home I examined it, and found what appears to be corrosion. I took some pictures so you can see. I am not 100% sure this is corrosion, but if it is, will it still work? If it works, should I still use it? Can it damage my PC's components if I install it? If you can't see the corrosion, i'll post some better photos. I'm new here, if i posted in the wrong place tell me also.
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Hi all, You know the story about why bugs are called bugs, right? Yeah well, turns out it can actually happen. TL,DR: go to the last picture, can you tell what those corroded components are? I had this Vega for a bit more than a year, solid GPU, stable OC, life was cool. I mostly play BFV and Overwatch @1440p, again blazing fast. A couple of weeks ago I got the latest Civ VI expansion and to my surprise after 30 min of gaming or so...bang! black screen & fans 100%. Nice. Initially I though may be software issue? I'll figure it out later. In the meantime, a mate insisted I try Warframe so I did. After 20 min of gaming, some story as with Civ. Tried many things, ended up following this guy's advice and check the GPU's thermal paste. As soon as I removed the Vega from the slot I noticed some corrosion on the inside side of the bracket close to the HDMI. WTF?! While inspecting the board some white sh*t was coming out from it. Was that burnt thermal paste or what? Next, I removed the backplate & heatsink and found the victims. Clearly that could be a great reason why I was getting those reboots, but still, how the hell did that happened? I could see some corrosion and more of that white crap close to the fan so the next step was to disassemble the heatsink. To my surprise the 3 bottom screws were totally corroded so they basically fused with the housing, my only option was to brake the housing... so I did. Once the housing was opened, I saw what I thought was an IT myth: So yeah... a bug. I would assume that the moth crawled into the heatsink though the GPU slot (as I got filter everywhere else) and was having a nice nap when I turned my PC on. Probably due to the heat, that created condensation and eventually corrosion. What's the end of the story? Cleaned everything, re-pasted the GPU and re attached the back & front plate without the housing. Everything works fine, temps are cool and the black screen/reboots are gone. Only thing that's not working fine is the Vega's sound output, there's sound but with a cracking. Would anyone know what these components are? They read "L1000" & "L1001" To sum up, bug are not just a myth. Cheers.
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My dad uses a secondhand WoW mouse for work. He uses the buttons for their programmable macros. He brought it home a couple days ago because it stopped working (not during use, he showed up and it was broken) and I know a lot more about electronics than he does. I popped it open and found some mild corrosion buildup, which I removed to the best of by ability with a small, dry paintbrush. The cable itself is fine (I broke out a multi meter and tested for continuity across it on all the channels). Any advice? If I can't fix it, any recommendations for a replacement mouse? he uses all 14 buttons on a daily basis and wishes there was more of them. What windows gives me Back of PCB:
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someone was selling a GTX 980 but apparently, it doesn't work. According to the seller, it does not display at all. So I took a gamble and decided to bet on it. I won hoping maybe it would be an easy fix. I plan to use it on an SLI config because I already have a gtx 980 on my current rig. So trying to figure out what's wrong with it based on looking at the pictures, I noticed these unusual spots on the back of the PCB. Not sure if it's either rust or corrosion. The seller placed odd stickers with arrows indicating the spots so I am really hoping it isn't too bad to fix. Please Help!!
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I've recently posted an inquiry about my temps on my Ryzen 5 3600 as I've recently made the switch to AMD from intel and went ahead and Oc'ed my chip. I posted the picture of my ID Cooling Zoomflow Snow Ed 360 AIO after about 2 weeks of use. I used a deep cool Z3 Tpaste and what you see in the picture is after i cleaned the tpaste. Tpaste application seemed fine and the one in the center of the CPU block is smooth (same finish before installing the AIO). After a 2nd reseating for about a day, the same appearance on the block was observed. Is this corrosion? Should I be doing warranty now? Here are my stats: 4.35 ghz at 1.2V Idle temps at 40 deg average Load temps (cinnebench/prime/Occt) at 68-73 deg average (max detected at 78) Load temps (gaming) at 60-68 deg average (max detected at 71) Ambient temps at 25-28 deg Thanks in advance!
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my laptop (Asus ROG Strix G GL531GU) won't boot now, it was on lock screen it freezed, showed me the error " your PC ran into a problem and we will restart it for you " and then it showed the ROG logo but never restarted, the keyboard started flashing red light and that's it, no other response. I tried to hard restart it (pressing the power button for 30 secs) but it didn't work. My laptop is under warranty so the first thing i did was visit the service center, submitted my laptop. I got a call from them on the next day saying that your laptop has corroded from inside, it is water damaged and its not covered under warranty. I know for sure that there was no water damage to the laptop at all. I remember my laptop heat sink turned black, they were all copper and shiny when the laptop was new but overtime in 8 months it turned black and that what the service center guy is calling corrosion. I looked up on the internet and found that it must be some bios issue (bcz of keyboard flashing) how should i make them understand this? they are just trying to blame me for water damage rather than accepting the issue. According to me there is no way that laptop shows " PC ran into a problem error " if its water damage or corrosion issue. And i suppose heat sink turning black is pretty common. Link to ROG forum whih the heatsink turned black thread " https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?55875-Copper-Heat-sink-Turns-Black!!!-G751 " -
I found this liquid cooling kit on eBay, while on a very tight budget, i still want to make sure something like this doesn't mix metals or have any scams lurking or present. Can somebody with more knowledge or experience tell me if its good? https://www.ebay.com/itm/DIY-Water-Cooling-Kit-240mm-Radiator-Reservoir-Pump-CPU-GPU-Block-6x-Hard-Tubes/162765246765?hash=item25e590912d:g:NwMAAOSwGPxaEqC9 I will say... Yes I know I can save up 310 something to get full water cooling, but a buck is a buck and it might take me a while to get that. I also know kits like the a240 exists but i like rigid tubing.
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I wanted to improve my water cooling loop "a bit". So I decided to design and mill a custom block for my GPU and buy an new fluid (primochill vue). Since I heard the Vue is problematic with lower quality materials, I wondered if it was a "good idea" to gold plate the inside of my whole loop in order to have a consistent, HQ metal as a surface. Would this stopp fallout in the fluid, and most importantly, would the fluids abrasive properties be able to eat through a approx. 10 μm of gold? Lenny
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