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Found 47 results

  1. Hello, everyone, I'm looking up parts for liquid cooling and galvanic corrosion comes up a lot. I understand what it is, but in the video "Fully RGB Water Cooling..." the fittings they use are copper based and the monoblock from strix - as far as I have found - only comes in nickel. Wouldn't that induce galvanic corrosion? I ask because that monoblock looks sexy as all hell and I would like to use those fittings because they look sexy as hell as well. Any help would be very much appreciated.
  2. Hi all, A few years back I saw a mod for car audio where they used solid copper or copper pipes to connect the amp to the subwoofer. For some reason this idea just came back to me now, and I think it would look sick as a mod for a modular power supply. My idea is to use 18/16 AWG solid copper wire instead of the stock 24-pin connector from power supply to motherboard since it will hold its shape and do 90 degree bends in it where appropriate. In order to keep the wires separated as there would not be insulation on them (maybe do a rubber paint on them to insulate them) I will be using a typical cable comb that is used to keep the usual wires neat. I can't for the life of me find any mod like this on Google, and was wondering if any of you guys have. If not, any advice or tips on how I could accomplish this would be awesome! Thanks!!
  3. Hi! I'm a bit stuck on my water cooling loop and since it's my first one I'm having some troubles solving the question: Which pump and res should I use? I really want a pump/res combo so I was planing on using this pump/res EK-XRES 100 REVO D5 PWM Then I was planing on changing the res tube to a 250(204mm) The problem is that the rest of my build is copper components and as far as I can see, this is aluminium. Do you guys have any suggestion for me? Only requirements, good, resonable quite pump, 200+(preferably 250) res, and 60 mm diameter res Thanks alot for all the help! Kind regards Simon
  4. Net for noobs

    In my small town in Croatia we have explicitly copper wired network options because they find it expensive to drill some holes and replace the cables with fiber optic ones (so i've been told). Is there a way for me to lets say buy an fiber optics converter that converts the copper wire to the fiber optics cable so i can get faster and a more reliable network or there is no way to simply do it? My current down speed is 7.6 Mbps and upload is 0.45 Mbps. The funniest part is that i am paying my ISP for a down speed of 25 Mbps but they simply can't get it through to me...
  5. Hey, someone on newegg worned in the review that because Fractal Design S24 (water cooler) uses aluminium radiators in could cause galvanic corrosion (btw i know what it is). So I just want to know whats the view on aluminum coolers and how often are they used. And yes my build will include copper parts (the pc was just ordered today, but can easily cancel it) Thy *later* nvm, as far as i can see almost all coolers have aluminum parts
  6. Copper water loop

    Is it possible to use copper pipe for a custom water cooling loop. I know how to work with copper piping because I took plumbing in school
  7. So I know this has been discussed before, and that Linus has done two videos on it already. But, I feel like the attempts didn't take into account a few better options. 1. 3D printed material. There are better material they could print with that could have been burned off/melted out much easier. Woodfill PLA or gluetype material generally used for support. Besides that, I'm not sure what % they used to fill the interior of their cooler, but if they make it 10% solid instead of 100% that should allow for much easier burning off. 2. Design. I think the solid block with a straight line of fins is the laziest design possible. Even if their Heatsink would have came out as designed, it still probably would have been at best the same as stock Intel coolers. Why not go for a high surface area geometry or even fractal design. Yes this would be harder to design, but this is 2017 and LTT obviously knows enough to either Matlab it up themselves or find a fanboy online who knows exactly about this type of design. 3. Aluminum instead of copper?? Why?! That amount of copper is going to cost nothing especially if you're just scrapping it out! And for god sakes, use some Borax in that melted metal before pouring it! 4. Bypass the heat spreader IHS. Why not take their CPU IHS off, weld it in some fashion to their finished heatsink, and then Thermal paste that bad boy back on directly to the silicon? Eliminate every issue and give them known improvement In thermals. Believe it or not, I'm actually working to do something like this. I'm in the process of stripping about 200ft of copper coax and collecting it. That should give me ~10lbs to work with. I've used solidworks to design other objects, I own a Prusa i3 MK2 3D printer that I know how to use. If anyone is at all interested in bouncing ideas around with me, I'm more than excited to talk with you.
  8. Hello guys, I'd like to follow up on my old thread I started explaining what and why I'd like to do to my GPU's heatsink, it's sorta long to explain so please just read the old one as I've explained with pictures and in detail what I'm about to do. So basically I found some PS3 copper shims that supposedly increase cooling for the core (I don't know how since I assume it doesn't have the misaligned cooler like I do) and It's about the size I need it to be. I also found a seller on ebay who sells cut to size copper sheets that are 0.8mm in thickness vs the 1.2mm thick PS3 shims and I'd actually like a rectangular 30x20 piece just to cover the 3rd heatpipe so this is why I'm considering the bigger sheet to cut it to size. My thinking is if I take the thinner shim it will be less big of an insulator (even if it's copper I'm still adding another layer between the core and heatpipes) but I'm not 100% certain on that and this is where I need your advice. I'll see what temperature whichever route I go to yields and since they're so cheap I can not even use them if they make things worse. PS: I've taken into considerations changing thermal paste and I will buy NT-H1 fairly soon which should only improve what I will see. I also know the risk of shorting things out and the extra height that the screws might not be able to reach to. Thanks
  9. [BUILD IN PROGRESS] A few months ago, I and a friend were conversing about water cooling, as all self respecting pc nerds do from time to time. And on on that day, we hatched a plan. Now, despite living on a pittance, he has managed to accrue enough money to water-cool his machine. We have opted (for better or worse) to use 12mm copper tubes for the build. The hardware itself consists of a 5820k and a single (for the moment) gtx1070 gpu. For dissipation, we have a single 420mm radiator, to be mounted in the top of the case, and a 280mm rad to be mounted on the front intakes. The case is a fractal design define r5. the parts: We plan to add posts to this thread more or less in real time, as the build progresses over the course of the night next few days (things are never that simple are they?). Neither of us have significant experience with water cooling so things could get interesting, as such, we would appreciate any tips and tricks you might have to offer! [PROGRESS UPDATE - 22.07.17] The build build has reached a key point, we have installed and leak tested the loop, and done a bit of quick and dirty overclocking, bumping the GPU up by ~150mhz and the cpu from 3.3 to 4.4. Work on the machine is pretty much done as of now, but there are a number of hings still on the agenda: Loop temperature controlled cooling, I plan to design a small circuit for controlling pwm fans using a standard g1/4 threaded temperature sensor. We could use a pre-made internal board like the aquero 6, but if you ask me, from an engineering standpoint that product is far overpriced for the functionality it offers. I'm confident I can build a device that will do what we need for pennies on the dollar by comparison. I will likely put up a thread detailing the design once it's done. Cable sleeving, enough said! No water cooling build is complete without custom sleeved and routed cables, extensions are for lame people , and for people with more space for cable management... Overclocking and bench-marking. Our preliminary overclocking was very lacklustre. Just a quick and dirty voltage/frequency boost. A proper overclocking session (or several) are needed to really push the system to its maximum potential. Also a couple of insane-o-volts 5ghz benchmark runs could be fun These tasks however, will have to be left for a time when we have more, well, time (and money). Likely in a few months time when sam picks up a second 1070. This build has been very tiring for the both of us, taking place over the course of two all night sessions just two days apart. We both need a rest. The finished machine with all the cables installed:
  10. Cryorig 2017-2018

    Cryorig 2017-2018 There are 2 main topics of discussion I've seen among Cryorig enthusiasts. 1.- When will the AF41 be released after we saw a picture of it leaked in later 2016. and 2.- After Computex, what coolers will be offered with the Cryorig Cu treatment and when? I spoke with a rep from research idea gear who would like to remain anonymous. Questions and Answers Q1. When will the AF41 be officially released, and can it be made from 2-3 R1 Ultimate coolers? A1. "unfortunately the AF41 is just idea for the April fool event and we never plan to release it and make it available"-"No, you could not assemble the R1s into an AF41 just by yourself." (Would they help me make it then??) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Q2. What will the launch look like for the copper coolers? A2. "for the Cu series, the C7 will be first product to be released in Copper edition." _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Below is a picture of the ginormous Cryorig AF41 and two pictures of the Cu edition Cryorig C7 cooler first to be released soon, thanks for reading!
  11. Hello! I'm new to water-cooling and am looking to build my first loop. Since I am super cheap I am trying to buy parts for as cheap as possible. Because of this, I don't want to buy the "standard" EK Pump/Reservoir that matches the rest of my copper stuff. Instead, I found an XSPC X4 Photon 270mm Reservoir/Pump (aluminum I think). My problem is that I have a copper water-block and radiator. Will the aluminum pump/reservoir hurt my loop? If I use an anti-corrosive fluid will it be ok? Thanks for the help! lahren1
  12. So what would the temperatures be if someone used copper pipes or even sliver pipes cause they conduct heat much better just load a few dozen fans and some copper or sliver tubing and away we go with the super cool computer.
  13. Hi all, I need some laptop cooling advice. Brief Description of what's happened: My dad's Lenovo G710 laptop recently stopped working (specs and service manual link are at the end of this post). I've diagnosed the issue to be the nvidia graphics card needs reseating (or whatever the term is). Questions regarding cooling: I've always removed thermal pads and just used MX-4 paste from Arctic Cooling on the CPU and GPU. But I've been doing research and found conflicting advice saying that I should use a copper shim on top of the GPU as well as paste to aid in cooling (transfer the heat). What are your thoughts? Does a copper shim help or not in reducing temperatures and therefore allow a longer life of the laptop? I've done extra research and decided to use the Gelid Solutions GC-Extreme thermal paste next instead of MX-4. Thanks for your advice all Dad's Laptop Specs (service manual download link PDF): Lenovo G710 laptop: Intel i3 4000m cpu, 4GB ddr3-1600 ram, nvidia 720m gpu, kingston 240gb ssd hdd, dvd-rw, wifi and bluetooth etc.
  14. I live near a river and people here say that copper turns black because of the air. My laptop died recently after 5 years of use and when i opened it, i saw the pipes turned black. Is this bad? Does it effect the cooling power of my laptop? Because i was planning to buy another laptop with 800$. But if this is an serious issue then i would not spend that much money for something that will have broken heat pipes in 2 years. Please help me out. Is this bad for the cooling system? I can't monitor the heat as my laptop is dead. As far as i know it only over heated because of dust. So am I risking my money if i get an expensive (for me at least) laptop? Help please. You can see the photos, almost all of it is black like burnt. Only a little area underneath still has the original color.
  15. Fellow Techies, I am selling my Corsair AIO cooler. However, the copper base is discolored. I will post a picture if need be. How can I get that new-ish shine back on it?
  16. Hello, I have a XSPC RX 360 Rad and 240 plus a new Alphacool Eisfach reservoir, XSPC raystorm AMD cpu block bought in September and XSPC razor gtx 680 water block. The gpu block and rads are about 5 years old. But the res and cpu block are brand new now I put them together in late September. By end of October I saw this dust sitting at the bottom of the res. So I took everything apart and saw the pipes, res, fittings with this green/blue stuff. So I started cleaning them up the res, fittings and pipes. Now the rad, gpu block and cpu block I still haven't touched. I have cleaned most of the res and fittings but they are still some left as you can see in the pictures Now doing some research I think it could be corrosion or copper oxidation. All the parts are copper and brass. Except this new res which has metals in it and I think this could be the culprit. I need you guys help on how to clean it and put my loop back up Thank you
  17. Hi! I'm planning to use the two following pieces in my next watercooling loop. But the waterblock states that it's "true chrome plated". I was wondering if I'm risking any galvanic reaction (corrosion) by mixing a conventional copper based block and this gpu block? Does that plating change anything? Here are the two components. Thanks upfront! CPU block: http://www.swiftech.com/ApogeeXL2.aspx GPU block: http://www.swiftech.com/KOMODONV-LEGTX1080.aspx
  18. Hey there! I was wondering to anyone reading this (if anyone at all) knew what was better. More heatpipes that are shorter or less heatpipes that are longer.
  19. Intel continues to be rude to AMD, so I continue to abuse this crap Pentium G840 (which isn't a terrible CPU but only gets 180ish cinebench R15 score). The process had the term "Fuck you AMD" etched into the nickel plating on the copper, but I took even further into the copper layer then roughly sanded off the remaining nickel to make this cute little joke. I think thee CPU still works, not that I'd be using it for anything. What should I do with it now? Lap the IHS flat and remove the etching, lap it smooth and leave it the etching?
  20. Fiber vs Copper

    I was wondering what is going to get me a petter ping: fibre with 25.000 kbit/s upload or copper with 50.000 kbit/s.
  21. Hey! I'm curious about what you think about ROG's new brave color scheme? Check out this quick quiz! https://opinionmatters.typeform.com/to/SWb1qh
  22. Hey Guys! This is my 4th or 5th PC build, but first ever build log! Here are some photos of the finished product!! Please check out the build log and I hope you enjoy!! BUILD LOG Pretty excited to get to work, but things will be slow for about a month, then it will ramp up really fast and be VERY pic heavy, hope that's ok? Theme The theme of this build is a sort of dieselpunk/ww2 military. I want it to be practical, and reversible (as in, mostly just a case mod, not modding components so I can swap them into a different case if I ever want to. COMPONENTS - 3930k @4.5ghz - Sabertooth x79 - GTX 980 ti - EK Plexi blocks for GPU and CPU - Corsair AIR 540 case - Full Copper Hardline Loop! - etc... The computer has been built and running a basic watercooling set up for about a year now, but im finally bored enough waiting for my HTC Vive to arrive, that I want something cool to do. And I may or may not want to show off my building skills to my father in law when I take my computer to their house for VR Demos... Here is the computer in its current form... And here are some basic renders I did in sketchup of the loop... First little part of the build... Turning a harbor freight multimeter into an external temp display... It uses a little watercooling inline temp sensor I got forever ago but never had a good place for, so I thought I'd mount it on the outside. I remember seeing something very similar a while ago but can't find it now. Original Multimeter I got free with some tape.. lol. ' As a bonus, I cut the original power cables and soldered them to the probe connections board that I broke off, so I can use the original props for power (I'll work something out for the signal cable later) Cut a new slot for my screen, added some card stock to blend the shape and then used some modeling putty to build a bit of a lip, making it all look standard (ish) First coat of paint, and some weathering done! (lots more to go) Thanks for checking it out, guys! Really looking forward to how this will go! Lots of crazy ideas in my head and I'm really looking forward to sharing them with you, I've meant to do this for years and finally have a chance!!
  23. Hey. So i was planning on putting my old Corsair H100 on my Palit Jetstream 780ti As far as I've measured and looked at this it should fit perfectly if i just remove the heatsink. So the fans and the whole shroud will stay. Also then the plate cooling the mosfets, memory etc. Tho my problem is that the copper base on the H100 measures at 50x60mm and the die on the gpu is 55.5x55.5mm (If i am not wrong) This means that i cant get the H100's copper to touch the die it self, we are talking 0.5mm clearance or something of that sort. So to my question, unsolved problems. Will a copper plate between the GPU and the AIO Impact performance much? And Where/how do i properly search for these? Ive found a few (tho to small) On ebay, Frozencpu i cant find them. either my searches finds nothing or it finds 50 pages of not what i am looking for!
  24. [Scratch Build] CUFEC

    Thanks for dropping by! The build will be a black and copper theme using a custom stainless steel case. Comprising of mostly 304 grade stainless steel and copper tubing, I've come up with the name CUFEC! **Don't forget to click on the hidden content to see more photos and explanations!** Current Stage: Rough Assembly for UNI To be completed: Fix a few crooked copper pipes - may even change the gpu to backplate run Lighting Sata cable spray paint. Hide any gaps on i/o with foam SPECS Hardware · CPU: i5 6600K · GPU: XFX R9 NANO · MB: Gigabyte GA-Z170N-Gaming 5 ASUS Z170I-Pro Gaming Motherboard · RAM: Something with decent heat sinks to detail. 16GB DDR4 · SSD: Kingston 480gb · CASE: Prototype Laser Cut Steel · PSU: Silverstone Strider 650W · Cables: Custom 550 Paracord Black & Copper · Fans: Corsair air WHITE 120mm Corsair Air Series SP120 Performance Edition Watercooling Components · CPU BLOCK: EK Supremacy EVO BLACK · GPU BLOCK: EK Full Cover R9 NANO BLACK · FITTINGS: PrimoChill Revolver Compression Fittings 1/2 OD - Dual Tone - Anodized Black · FITTINGS: Generic 90 degree copper bends · TUBING: 1/2 Copper · RADIATORS: 240 & 120 Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 EK CoolStream SE 240 & 120 Slim Dual Radiator
  25. So... I ordered a Kraken G10 mount and Kraken X31 AIO for my r9 290. But for what I have read is that VRM is left uncovered and will give a considerable heat output to make me worry. Currently my reference cooler runs the VRM elements always below 70 even if the GPU core touches 90-91 C* (i hate the temp, but people say it's fine, but I don't like the noise anyway, thus liquid cooling). What I have a question about is these little things I ordered... and whether they actually make a difference? These tiny, measly copper heatsinks. http://www.ebay.com/itm/121875342218
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