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Found 39 results

  1. [BUILD IN PROGRESS] A few months ago, I and a friend were conversing about water cooling, as all self respecting pc nerds do from time to time. And on on that day, we hatched a plan. Now, despite living on a pittance, he has managed to accrue enough money to water-cool his machine. We have opted (for better or worse) to use 12mm copper tubes for the build. The hardware itself consists of a 5820k and a single (for the moment) gtx1070 gpu. For dissipation, we have a single 420mm radiator, to be mounted in the top of the case, and a 280mm rad to be mounted on the front intakes. The case is a fractal design define r5. the parts: We plan to add posts to this thread more or less in real time, as the build progresses over the course of the night next few days (things are never that simple are they?). Neither of us have significant experience with water cooling so things could get interesting, as such, we would appreciate any tips and tricks you might have to offer! [PROGRESS UPDATE - 22.07.17] The build build has reached a key point, we have installed and leak tested the loop, and done a bit of quick and dirty overclocking, bumping the GPU up by ~150mhz and the cpu from 3.3 to 4.4. Work on the machine is pretty much done as of now, but there are a number of hings still on the agenda: Loop temperature controlled cooling, I plan to design a small circuit for controlling pwm fans using a standard g1/4 threaded temperature sensor. We could use a pre-made internal board like the aquero 6, but if you ask me, from an engineering standpoint that product is far overpriced for the functionality it offers. I'm confident I can build a device that will do what we need for pennies on the dollar by comparison. I will likely put up a thread detailing the design once it's done. Cable sleeving, enough said! No water cooling build is complete without custom sleeved and routed cables, extensions are for lame people , and for people with more space for cable management... Overclocking and bench-marking. Our preliminary overclocking was very lacklustre. Just a quick and dirty voltage/frequency boost. A proper overclocking session (or several) are needed to really push the system to its maximum potential. Also a couple of insane-o-volts 5ghz benchmark runs could be fun These tasks however, will have to be left for a time when we have more, well, time (and money). Likely in a few months time when sam picks up a second 1070. This build has been very tiring for the both of us, taking place over the course of two all night sessions just two days apart. We both need a rest. The finished machine with all the cables installed:
  2. Cryorig 2017-2018 There are 2 main topics of discussion I've seen among Cryorig enthusiasts. 1.- When will the AF41 be released after we saw a picture of it leaked in later 2016. and 2.- After Computex, what coolers will be offered with the Cryorig Cu treatment and when? I spoke with a rep from research idea gear who would like to remain anonymous. Questions and Answers Q1. When will the AF41 be officially released, and can it be made from 2-3 R1 Ultimate coolers? A1. "unfortunately the AF41 is just idea for the April fool event and we never plan to release it and make it available"-"No, you could not assemble the R1s into an AF41 just by yourself." (Would they help me make it then??) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Q2. What will the launch look like for the copper coolers? A2. "for the Cu series, the C7 will be first product to be released in Copper edition." _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Below is a picture of the ginormous Cryorig AF41 and two pictures of the Cu edition Cryorig C7 cooler first to be released soon, thanks for reading!
  3. Hello! I'm new to water-cooling and am looking to build my first loop. Since I am super cheap I am trying to buy parts for as cheap as possible. Because of this, I don't want to buy the "standard" EK Pump/Reservoir that matches the rest of my copper stuff. Instead, I found an XSPC X4 Photon 270mm Reservoir/Pump (aluminum I think). My problem is that I have a copper water-block and radiator. Will the aluminum pump/reservoir hurt my loop? If I use an anti-corrosive fluid will it be ok? Thanks for the help! lahren1
  4. So what would the temperatures be if someone used copper pipes or even sliver pipes cause they conduct heat much better just load a few dozen fans and some copper or sliver tubing and away we go with the super cool computer.
  5. Hi all, I need some laptop cooling advice. Brief Description of what's happened: My dad's Lenovo G710 laptop recently stopped working (specs and service manual link are at the end of this post). I've diagnosed the issue to be the nvidia graphics card needs reseating (or whatever the term is). Questions regarding cooling: I've always removed thermal pads and just used MX-4 paste from Arctic Cooling on the CPU and GPU. But I've been doing research and found conflicting advice saying that I should use a copper shim on top of the GPU as well as paste to aid in cooling (transfer the heat). What are your thoughts? Does a copper shim help or not in reducing temperatures and therefore allow a longer life of the laptop? I've done extra research and decided to use the Gelid Solutions GC-Extreme thermal paste next instead of MX-4. Thanks for your advice all Dad's Laptop Specs (service manual download link PDF): Lenovo G710 laptop: Intel i3 4000m cpu, 4GB ddr3-1600 ram, nvidia 720m gpu, kingston 240gb ssd hdd, dvd-rw, wifi and bluetooth etc.
  6. I live near a river and people here say that copper turns black because of the air. My laptop died recently after 5 years of use and when i opened it, i saw the pipes turned black. Is this bad? Does it effect the cooling power of my laptop? Because i was planning to buy another laptop with 800$. But if this is an serious issue then i would not spend that much money for something that will have broken heat pipes in 2 years. Please help me out. Is this bad for the cooling system? I can't monitor the heat as my laptop is dead. As far as i know it only over heated because of dust. So am I risking my money if i get an expensive (for me at least) laptop? Help please. You can see the photos, almost all of it is black like burnt. Only a little area underneath still has the original color.
  7. Fellow Techies, I am selling my Corsair AIO cooler. However, the copper base is discolored. I will post a picture if need be. How can I get that new-ish shine back on it?
  8. Hello, I have a XSPC RX 360 Rad and 240 plus a new Alphacool Eisfach reservoir, XSPC raystorm AMD cpu block bought in September and XSPC razor gtx 680 water block. The gpu block and rads are about 5 years old. But the res and cpu block are brand new now I put them together in late September. By end of October I saw this dust sitting at the bottom of the res. So I took everything apart and saw the pipes, res, fittings with this green/blue stuff. So I started cleaning them up the res, fittings and pipes. Now the rad, gpu block and cpu block I still haven't touched. I have cleaned most of the res and fittings but they are still some left as you can see in the pictures Now doing some research I think it could be corrosion or copper oxidation. All the parts are copper and brass. Except this new res which has metals in it and I think this could be the culprit. I need you guys help on how to clean it and put my loop back up Thank you
  9. Hi! I'm planning to use the two following pieces in my next watercooling loop. But the waterblock states that it's "true chrome plated". I was wondering if I'm risking any galvanic reaction (corrosion) by mixing a conventional copper based block and this gpu block? Does that plating change anything? Here are the two components. Thanks upfront! CPU block: http://www.swiftech.com/ApogeeXL2.aspx GPU block: http://www.swiftech.com/KOMODONV-LEGTX1080.aspx
  10. Hey Guys! This is my 4th or 5th PC build, but first ever build log! Here are some photos of the finished product!! Please check out the build log and I hope you enjoy!! BUILD LOG Pretty excited to get to work, but things will be slow for about a month, then it will ramp up really fast and be VERY pic heavy, hope that's ok? Theme The theme of this build is a sort of dieselpunk/ww2 military. I want it to be practical, and reversible (as in, mostly just a case mod, not modding components so I can swap them into a different case if I ever want to. COMPONENTS - 3930k @4.5ghz - Sabertooth x79 - GTX 980 ti - EK Plexi blocks for GPU and CPU - Corsair AIR 540 case - Full Copper Hardline Loop! - etc... The computer has been built and running a basic watercooling set up for about a year now, but im finally bored enough waiting for my HTC Vive to arrive, that I want something cool to do. And I may or may not want to show off my building skills to my father in law when I take my computer to their house for VR Demos... Here is the computer in its current form... And here are some basic renders I did in sketchup of the loop... First little part of the build... Turning a harbor freight multimeter into an external temp display... It uses a little watercooling inline temp sensor I got forever ago but never had a good place for, so I thought I'd mount it on the outside. I remember seeing something very similar a while ago but can't find it now. Original Multimeter I got free with some tape.. lol. ' As a bonus, I cut the original power cables and soldered them to the probe connections board that I broke off, so I can use the original props for power (I'll work something out for the signal cable later) Cut a new slot for my screen, added some card stock to blend the shape and then used some modeling putty to build a bit of a lip, making it all look standard (ish) First coat of paint, and some weathering done! (lots more to go) Thanks for checking it out, guys! Really looking forward to how this will go! Lots of crazy ideas in my head and I'm really looking forward to sharing them with you, I've meant to do this for years and finally have a chance!!
  11. Hey there! I was wondering to anyone reading this (if anyone at all) knew what was better. More heatpipes that are shorter or less heatpipes that are longer.
  12. Intel continues to be rude to AMD, so I continue to abuse this crap Pentium G840 (which isn't a terrible CPU but only gets 180ish cinebench R15 score). The process had the term "Fuck you AMD" etched into the nickel plating on the copper, but I took even further into the copper layer then roughly sanded off the remaining nickel to make this cute little joke. I think thee CPU still works, not that I'd be using it for anything. What should I do with it now? Lap the IHS flat and remove the etching, lap it smooth and leave it the etching?
  13. I was wondering what is going to get me a petter ping: fibre with 25.000 kbit/s upload or copper with 50.000 kbit/s.
  14. Thanks for dropping by! The build will be a black and copper theme using a custom stainless steel case. Comprising of mostly 304 grade stainless steel and copper tubing, I've come up with the name CUFEC! **Don't forget to click on the hidden content to see more photos and explanations!** Current Stage: Rough Assembly for UNI To be completed: Fix a few crooked copper pipes - may even change the gpu to backplate run Lighting Sata cable spray paint. Hide any gaps on i/o with foam SPECS Hardware · CPU: i5 6600K · GPU: XFX R9 NANO · MB: Gigabyte GA-Z170N-Gaming 5 ASUS Z170I-Pro Gaming Motherboard · RAM: Something with decent heat sinks to detail. 16GB DDR4 · SSD: Kingston 480gb · CASE: Prototype Laser Cut Steel · PSU: Silverstone Strider 650W · Cables: Custom 550 Paracord Black & Copper · Fans: Corsair air WHITE 120mm Corsair Air Series SP120 Performance Edition Watercooling Components · CPU BLOCK: EK Supremacy EVO BLACK · GPU BLOCK: EK Full Cover R9 NANO BLACK · FITTINGS: PrimoChill Revolver Compression Fittings 1/2 OD - Dual Tone - Anodized Black · FITTINGS: Generic 90 degree copper bends · TUBING: 1/2 Copper · RADIATORS: 240 & 120 Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 EK CoolStream SE 240 & 120 Slim Dual Radiator
  15. Hey! I'm curious about what you think about ROG's new brave color scheme? Check out this quick quiz! https://opinionmatters.typeform.com/to/SWb1qh
  16. Hey. So i was planning on putting my old Corsair H100 on my Palit Jetstream 780ti As far as I've measured and looked at this it should fit perfectly if i just remove the heatsink. So the fans and the whole shroud will stay. Also then the plate cooling the mosfets, memory etc. Tho my problem is that the copper base on the H100 measures at 50x60mm and the die on the gpu is 55.5x55.5mm (If i am not wrong) This means that i cant get the H100's copper to touch the die it self, we are talking 0.5mm clearance or something of that sort. So to my question, unsolved problems. Will a copper plate between the GPU and the AIO Impact performance much? And Where/how do i properly search for these? Ive found a few (tho to small) On ebay, Frozencpu i cant find them. either my searches finds nothing or it finds 50 pages of not what i am looking for!
  17. So... I ordered a Kraken G10 mount and Kraken X31 AIO for my r9 290. But for what I have read is that VRM is left uncovered and will give a considerable heat output to make me worry. Currently my reference cooler runs the VRM elements always below 70 even if the GPU core touches 90-91 C* (i hate the temp, but people say it's fine, but I don't like the noise anyway, thus liquid cooling). What I have a question about is these little things I ordered... and whether they actually make a difference? These tiny, measly copper heatsinks. http://www.ebay.com/itm/121875342218
  18. I am planning on buying the Corsair Hydro Series H115i Extreme Performance Liquid CPU Cooler and I am not sure what thermal paste to get, it has a copper surface rather than aluminum. So I want thermal paste that will keep my cpu cool as possible.
  19. HELIOS - Build Log Table of Contents 2013-APR-27: The SMH10 - Unpacking and Assembly 2013-APR-28: Radiators 2013-APR-29: Making a New Workshop 2013-APR-29: My Old Rig 2013-APR-30: The Raystorm CPU Blocks 2013-JUN-16: PSU & Pump Mount, Making the 24 Pin Cable 2013-JUN-21: Small Cable Progress Update 2013-JUN-21: Some Sketches and Information About the Cable Lacing 2013-JUL-06: What 40 Hours of Cabling Will Get You... 2013-JUL-18: Various Smaller Bits 2013-JUL-22: A Copper Face Plate for the Lamptron FC5V2 2013-JUL-25: The Aqua Computer Aqualis Copper Edition 2013-SEP-14: Prototype: The Bitfenix Spectre Pro Copper Edition 2013-SEP-15: Painting the M/B Block Screws 2013-SEP-20: Fan Disassembly: How-To 2013-SEP-22: Quick Status Shot of the Unfinished Rig 2013-SEP-23: The Bitfenix Spectre Pro Copper Edition (cont.) 2013-OCT-01: Colour-Coordinating the Kryographics Titan 2013-OCT-08: Loop Planning 2013-OCT-09: Colour-Coordinating the Raystorms 2013-OCT-13: Deciding on a Backplate, Small M/B Teaser 2013-OCT-13: The EVGA SR-2 Black Edition 2013-OCT-28: Requesting Opinions on Fittings... 2013-OCT-29: Colour-Coordinating the RAM Blocks 2014-FEB-20: Temporary Ghetto Setup 2015-SEP-03: Progress! Motherboard Looped Up! 2015-SEP-06: Assembled PDF Version http://alpenwasser.net/repository/files/helios.pdf Current Status Prologue Yes, yes, the SR-2 is old news by now, I'm well aware of that. However, it was not yet when I started this build almost two years ago. Health troubles intervened soon after that (again) and put a stop to my plans. Since I really did not want to sell the hardware I had already bought (the SR-2 among it), I decided to stick it out and finish it when my health and funds allowed for it. Originally, this was going to be a scratchbuild, but the nice thing about having such a long delay is that Caselabs have brought out pretty much the perfect case in the meantime. My own box would have been pretty similar in its layout to the SMH10 and also made from Alu. But buying all the raw materials and the tools necessary to do it properly would have probably cost me more than the SMH10, so I just decided to go for that. The Name Hysterical Excess Labouring Independently Of Sanity, aka HELIOS. Because: It's been going on for almost two years. And I am definitely starting to question my sanity . Also: I've been naming my PC's after Greek deities since forever. The first PC I built was an AMD Thunderbird C 1.4 GHz machine back in 2001, which lasted me for a few years, and it was called Helios (I use the name as the PC's host name within our network, for those wondering what practical use it has). It died a fiery death at the hands of a water cooling accident: Using the Eheim 1048 I had been befallen by the rattling pump wheel. Naturally, I wrapped some tape around the axle which solved that problem. Unfortunately, the tape became brittle over time and eventually, a piece of tape broke off and clogged the loop. Killed the flow, cooked the CPU (no overheating protection back then). I'll see if I can get some pics of the damage to the Cuplex and post them later. After that, I took that name out of use, until now. It's time for a revival. Oh, the original HELIOS was name after the A.I. from the original Deus Ex game, but I've always had an interest in Greek mythology, so it was a nice fit. The Inspiration Originally, PrometheusCU. I'm sure many of you are familiar with it, and those who aren't: Go read it, now! I'll wait a few days. Sadly, its creator passed on and never finished it (it did go to a friend of his, but no activity since last summer, at least not in the original thread ). I don't nearly have his set of skills and/or tools, but that doesn't change the inspiration part. Also, B Negative's SR-2 rig. Main Hardware As a side note: The computing power of this rig will mostly go to BOINC (I might use it for gaming from time to time, we shall see). If F@H ever get their stuff together with regards to GPU folding on Linux (highly unlikely ), I might switch over to folding again, since I'd been doing that for about 18 months before switching to BOINC due to the GPU problem (and a few other niggles I have with the project's behavior towards its donors). The O/S will most likely be Arch Linux (since I've been using that for about two years now and am quite comfortable with it), or if I feel experimental Gentoo or even FreeBSD. Certainly not Windows. I need my xterm and Z shell and UNIX utilities. This is also why I won't get an Aquaero; the Aquasuite is Windows only, and an Aquaero without Aquasuite is, if possible, rather pointless imho :( Anyway: M/B: EVGA SR-2 CPU: 2 ⨯ Xeon X5680 (not ES, normal retail version, got them for half price on eBay, brand spanking new) RAM: 24 GB of Corsair Dominator 1866 GPU: 1 ⨯ Geforce Titan (should do well at computing), 1 ⨯ GTX 780 (later addition). SSD: Intel 520 120 GB HDD: TBD PSU: Enermax Platimax 1200 W (don't need that much power, but the weaker models aren't fully modular, more reasoning for my decision later on) Case: Caselabs SMH10, reverse ATX layout, obviously in black Originally, I was going to use a Koolance 1.7 kW liquid cooled PSU, but it turned out to be incompatible with the SR-2. I'm not kidding, the PSU is fine, as was the M/B last time I powered it on with a different PSU. Somehow, the initial self-check of the SR-2 is not liked at all by the Koolance PSU, so I've had to get a different one. W/C Parts Well, of course it will be under water! . In fact, all my PC's for the last 12 years have had to get wet. CPU blocks: 2 ⨯ XSPC Raystorm Copper Edition GPU block: Probably the Aquacomputer Titan block in copper with the acrylic top. Haven't ordered it yet though, so this might still change. RAM blocks: Alphacool Dominator water blocks in copper with plexi (update: replaced /w acetal) tops. Yes, cooling your RAM with water is absolutely unnecessary. I just like how it looks. M/B block: MIPS SR-2 block in Acetal/Copper Pumps: 2 ⨯ Aquacomputer D5 without Aquabus Pump tops: 2 ⨯ Alphacool D5 pump tops in Acetal Reservoir: Aquacomputer Aqualis Pro Radiators: 2 ⨯ Hardware Labs SR-1 560 + 1 ⨯ Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 480 (that's the equivalent of ~14.89 120mm single radiators, for those wondering). Fans: For the moment, Bitfenix Spectre Pros in 140 mm and 120 mm, respectively. Some people seem to be having bearing troubles, if that happens, I will probably go for some Noctuas. Fan and Pump Controller: Lamptron FC5v2 Flow Meter and Display: Koolance INS-FM17N with the DCB-FM01 as its display. I know flow monitoring isn't really necessary, and the Koolance flow meter doesn't really look good. This is mostly about satisfying my curiosity, and there's enough places in the SMH10 where I can hide the display and the sensor so that it doesn't uglify the build. Fittings: 16/10 mm compression fittings, Alphacool shiny copper and possibly also in black Tubing: 15 mm OD copper tubing (possibly some normal 16/10 tubing in some parts, to be determined). And yes, I have figured out a way to fit 15mm OD tubing into 16/10 compression fittings and getting it watertight (at least according to first tests, let's hope it keeps working). I'm not yet absolutely sure how the RAM blocks will look, maybe it will just be too much or I will have to accent them with some black in order to avoid "Copper overload". We'll see. Pictures Aka the thing that people actually care about. I have my own web space and will be uploading the pictures to it. Quite a few reasons for that, none of them relevant here. There are a few scripts in the background which resize the pics to any desired resolution. I'll be resizing them to 800px width for now, which should not overload people's connections while still providing enough detail. If that's too much, let me know, I can reduce the standard size. Most pictures are stored in 1920x1440 on my server, so if anyone wants to see some additional detail, I will hyperlink each image to its own full-res version. You can also specify any arbitrary desired resolution with the following pattern: http://www.alpenwasser.net/images/w000/h000/imagename.extension Where w000 and h000 are the desired width and height in pixels (you do need the preceeding "h" and/or "w" though). It's sufficient to use one of the two. If you use both, the image will be resized proportionally and the pixel values given will be treated as maxima. So, for those brave few who have not been deterred by my introductory novella, let's get started :)
  20. Can you recommend a cpu water block for i7-5820k with good water flow regardless of price and looks.I just need good performance and preferably with copper plate.
  21. Amazon: http://geni.us/39tX NCIX: http://bit.ly/1PFqMZ3 Is making your own water block feasible? Linus decided to test that out using his Scrapyard Wars 2 water block made on his neighbor's CNC machine.
  22. Hello everybody! I have ended the life of a EVGA 04G-P4-3975-KR 970 SSC ACX 2.0+ card & I'm coming to ask you guys for help. Obviously I've done something wrong & I'd like your input so the mistake can be avoided in the future. Hopefully this thread will not only help me out but save some other people from these troubles in the future. To start out I want to say I've been running these amazing bios from over on the Overclock.net forums for three months with constant everyday use. I ran this card at 1532 core & 7906 memory with no problems! I never adjusted the power via sliders or anything else once the modified bios were put in place, I just used EVGA's PrecisionX 16 software to modify the speeds & run a more aggressive fan profile. I had tested this card at higher speeds via AIDA64 Extreme, 3DMark Pro, Cinebench 64, & Valley Benchmark where it did fine. I bumped it down to those speeds for a little bit of safety instead of putting it on the very edge all the time. At absolute worse it would get to 80C with the fans at 100% sounding like a jet was taking off in my office. (though it never downclocked) Skip forward a couple of months & I was really tired of the noise. Specifically when I was doing video editing, the scrubbing would make those fans rev up and down enough to make you pull your hair out. Or even while streaming on Twitch, no matter how good of a audio filter you setup the noise could become a problem at times. Wanting to solve two problems at once I figured I could help protect the long term life of the card & bring it's noise down by installing an AIO water setup on it. I have alot of NZXT products in my build so I figured I would stay with what's worked so far & purchased a Kraken X31, the G10 mounting kit, some Noctua NT-H1 paste, & 16 additional copper heatsinks. I was worried there was a lot of this card that needed cooling that the fan included in the G10 kit wasn't going to adequately take care of. I have a ton of air flow in my case so I thought with some well placed heat sinks I wouldn't have any issues keeping this card nice and quiet while it screamed on those modified bios. So I put everything together & it worked great for a while. I wanted to see how it would handle maximum stress so I fired up every benchmark I could. This card would never get over 55C, it was rock solid & finally silent. I was in heaven for about an hour. I tested some additional overclocks just for grins. The card would bench at 1600mhz core & 8,000mhz memory but after a while would start to stutter. I kinda laughed that even on water that was probably pushing it to far so I backed it down to 1550 on the core & everything was fine. I mean that's only 18mhz faster then I had it running on air for months. I really wasn't concerned one bit since this wasn't about getting it faster. I had a bunch of work to get done so I just let it run endless benchmarks in the background to see how it was going to handle the new setup. About 45 minutes into this I got a business call that took me away from my desk for about 20 mins & being naive or just really dumb I didn't for a second think to turn off my stress tests. I came back to a black screen, the system was still on but there was absolutely no video response. From that moment on this card was officially dead. I tried separate PCI Express slots, I ran completely different cables from different ports off my PSU, I took the card out & put it in another system all together. Then I took an old Quadro FX 3450/4000 SDI card I had laying around & tested everything. My system was fine, I couldn't find any damage to anything but the 970. No matter where I tried to run this card, the systems would never power on for more then a split second. I mean you could push the power button & watch the system fans just twitch once not even really move. That was the fate as I tested it over and over. I removed all my mods off the card completely, reinstalled the default stock cooling system, & well you guessed it, obviously still dead. I got a magnifying glass out just to see if there was any sign of physical abuse on the card, like I nicked something during the mod or I don't know, just if there was any sign of what had happen. Nada, card looks great. I'm truly baffled as to what went wrong. I have speculated that a few of the tiniest chips I couldn't fit additional heatsinks on failed when they overheated. I'm also rolling the idea around in my head that I should have tried to install the X31 on top of the secondary plate that covered all the chipsets / memory instead of putting on all the copper heatsinks myself. I'm really not sure, I've highlighted the spots that didn't get new heatsinks in the pictures below. So I've got another of the exact same card coming. It'll be here Monday. Hopefully with all of your help I can install this X31/G10 on it & not ruin another $350 card. The sticky pads that came on the copper heatsinks have got to be dry by now & I didn't order any permanent bonding compounds yet as I wanted to hear what you all had to say before going down that route again. I watched a bunch of videos of people doing this same mod & clearly I've screwed up somewhere. ALL ADVICE IS WELCOME. Please use my mistakes as an educational grounds to improve your own future builds. Pictures in the spoiler box below: Thanks in advance, 'Gobby
  23. So I found a potential problem in my loop, and I was wondering if any of you could offer advice. I was topping up my loop today and I noticed that the copper cap on my reservoir was discolored. I thought that it could have been some gunk or something that built up on it, but after wiping it off, it appears to be corrosion. The picture below isn't that great, but I don't have a better camera, so it's the best I can do. I'm using a CoolerMaster Glacer 240L pre-filled loop as my pump and first radiator (which is all copper) along with an additional Alphacool all copper radiator. The GPU has an EK copper waterblock, and the reservoir is an Alphacool res with copper plugs. I have a silver killcoil in my loop, and I also used some copper sulfate as an additional biocide. Because everything in my loop is copper, I didn't think I would need anti-corrosive, but should I add some, or is the stuff on the plug not corrosion? If I should add anti-corrosive, what would you recommend I use? I know anti-freeze works, but I've heard it gunks up easily. Additionally, is there anything I should do with regard to the GPU block or CPU block? Should I disassemble them to check for corrosion? (And if I should, and there is corrosion, what should I do?) I know there are a lot of questions, but I greatly appreciate anybody's help!
  24. A little while ago I saw an interesting thread (post? article?) about seperating the copper and aluminium in an Intel stock cooler like this: I mentioned this to someone recently and they wanted to read it, but I can't seem to find it. If anyone knows where to find this info I would really appreciate it if you could share it. Many thanks
  25. I was wondering what is the difference between these two waterblocks. I decided nickel over copper because I heard that nickel still has copper underneath and has better thermal conductivity. btw, kinda new to wc http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-supremacy-evo-cpu-water-block-nickel-plexi.html http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-supremacy-evo-cpu-water-block-csq-nickel-plexi.html thanks!