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  1. I've just recently moved countries, and for that reason I had to take down my PC. During the process, I had noticed some cracks on the copper surface. [Corsair H100i RGB Platium SE] These cracks seem to appear around here and there, and I know its normal and sometimes harmless. However, I have never seen cracks this extensive around the screws. Should I be concerned about the performance and safety of my cooler, or is it safe to continue using it? Any suggestions on how to address this issue would be greatly appreciated. Pictures bellow, Thanks.
  2. I know that mixing metals in a custom loop is bad, but will the EK quantum velocity (nickel) work with the Corsair Hydro X 240mm white rad(copper) https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-quantum-velocity-amd-nickel-plexi?___store=default https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/CORSAIR-White-PC-Build/XR5-White/p/CX-9030007-WW Thank you for any help!
  3. Hey all, I just got this B-250 in the mail and it said it was used. Upon further inspection I saw that there was a good amount of exposed copper and traces exposed. Should this be able to work? I am getting the PSU this week and will try to test it the following. Here are some of the pictures.
  4. I want to try a lot of different experiments on computers and laptops and this one popped into my mind. Now there are some people out there who have aluminum heatsinks and everyone should know copper is way thermally conductive than aluminum. Now I thought of getting a thin copper sheet (probably about 0.3mm) and sticking it in between a CPU and aluminum heatsink and adding thermal paste in between them both. But still the aluminum would only pick up heat the same as if it were on the CPU. I did some more research and found some copper based gasket sealant. Then I had the idea of merging the copper sheet to the heatsink with the sealant instead of using thermal paste. So I'm here asking for peoples opinion on if they think this would work. I put a little diagram below on how it is supposed to go
  5. Cooling and overheating are some of my biggest bothers when it comes to laptops so when I was looking up Arctic MX-5 reviews on Youtube, I accidentally happened upon a video where the user modified his laptops CPU cooler by gluing copper wires. So I looked up CPU cooler modding and found out about gluing additional copper pipes, which was proven to work. So now I'm looking for the best adhesive to glue the pipes together. Should I actually look for a thermal glue or would thermal paste do the trick? I ask that because I am looking up a list of the best thermal GLUE which also includes thermal PASTE - so does it also double as adhesive? 10 Best Thermal Glue Thanks.
  6. hello everyone =) has anyone found out what type of waterblock the xtreme waterforce 3090 has, if it's copper, brass or aluminum? i'm referring to the xtreme waterforce without the AIO. Correct me if i'm wrong, please: i have a copper rad. having a brass plated block or a copper block, is ok for a copper loop right? it's just if other metal is aluminum is the problem. is my understanding correct? thanks in advanced! chris
  7. This is not selling for/in my country: I will make it myself. I'm thinking about locally laser-cutting a copper sheet/block. 1mm thick, between vram and heatsink, or should I get a thicker block? For that, I'll need to make and give a CAD file to the local service provider. This is the best info I've found so far. Mine's an Asus 3070ti TUF, haven't found on Tech Power Up yet, but seems to be the same as in the above video. https://www.techpowerup.com/review/zotac-geforce-rtx-3070-ti-amp-extreme/3.html https://www.techpowerup.com/review/zotac-geforce-rtx-3070-ti-amp-extreme/images/front_full.jpg This above is the closest I've found from the Asus TUF, seems to be the same orientation, proportion, 0-2-3-3 vram chip pattern. The size and distance from GPU die to vram chips must be the same. Picture seems a bit warped by lens, but seems fine for drawing the CAD on top of. I just need dimensions of the core die or vram chips outter shell, something like that, to take as reference. https://www.techpowerup.com/review/gigabyte-geforce-rtx-3070-ti-gaming-oc/3.html If anyone already has a CAD file, or knows a link, somewhere I can get the data I need, PLEASE share. When I install mine, if it works, I'll give the cad file in here for free so that anyone (INDIVIDUAL) can just laser cut this easy poop fix by him/her self, and be done with.
  8. CONTEXT: So, moving out of my mums - she still needs a PC, these were the beginnings of the Coppaq. I'd made a few PCs before. But I'd never got the chance to go mad and do all the dumb stuff I've always wanted, namely: - passive cooling - retro (CRT oc, etc.) - SSHDs in RAID (yeah bad idea lol) Right (love you Trout), so, here goes it. As for rules, eBay only, no budget, and it has to run CSGO at 800x600. I spent like £600 on this garbage. SPECS: - first i3 4160T, second i5 4570T, lastly Pentium G3258 delided at 4.2ghz under a NoFan cr80-eh - 8gb of low profile black ram with copper heatsinks added - RX460 4GB on Phanteks vertical gpu mount liquid metal-ed (because why not) under a Zalman zf100 with the fan ripped off - Firstly a MSI H81M-E33 but messed up my bios (by not resetting b4 flashing) so won't OC anymore, so secondly I upgraded to Gigabyte GA-H97M-D3H (ooh more orange) 3D printed backplate coming from Spain. - Yesico (Yes, that's a brand) 420w fully passive non-modular partially sleeved PSU (FL-420ATX), 20 to 24 pin mobo adapter and 4pin cpu in an 8pin works fine - Coolermaster Wavemaster (I dremelled the PCIs off uwotm8) - NZXT Hue set to CPU temp in case and marquee behind the front panel - Currently 4x SSHDs in Win10 parity + 1 for disk (all short stroked) soon to be 6x Seagate 500/8gb SSHDs, 5x in hardware raid because when it fills up it's balls speed - AKASA Ultraquiet clear/amber-clear fans (off) soon to be on aircraft switches on a front panel for summer PERIPHERALS: - Compaq 7500 CRT (OC'd to a whopping 88hz, will do 120 for a few minutes eh? EH?) - Compaq keyboard & mouse (gonna try to install roccat internals) - Time speakers are actually fantastic - Logitech ball webcam - Philips SHP2500s w/ modmic GALLERY:
  9. SORRY ABOUT THE TITLE So today I was repairing a USB drive when I realised this! I'm really stranged out about this. I got my multi meter out and tried to see if it was some sort of metal... Of course I couldn't really tell as copper is very low reactive metal. Do you think this could be part of the circuit board? I need geniuses please!
  10. I live near a river and people here say that copper turns black because of the air. My laptop died recently after 5 years of use and when i opened it, i saw the pipes turned black. Is this bad? Does it effect the cooling power of my laptop? Because i was planning to buy another laptop with 800$. But if this is an serious issue then i would not spend that much money for something that will have broken heat pipes in 2 years. Please help me out. Is this bad for the cooling system? I can't monitor the heat as my laptop is dead. As far as i know it only over heated because of dust. So am I risking my money if i get an expensive (for me at least) laptop? Help please. You can see the photos, almost all of it is black like burnt. Only a little area underneath still has the original color.
  11. Hi all, I need some laptop cooling advice. Brief Description of what's happened: My dad's Lenovo G710 laptop recently stopped working (specs and service manual link are at the end of this post). I've diagnosed the issue to be the nvidia graphics card needs reseating (or whatever the term is). Questions regarding cooling: I've always removed thermal pads and just used MX-4 paste from Arctic Cooling on the CPU and GPU. But I've been doing research and found conflicting advice saying that I should use a copper shim on top of the GPU as well as paste to aid in cooling (transfer the heat). What are your thoughts? Does a copper shim help or not in reducing temperatures and therefore allow a longer life of the laptop? I've done extra research and decided to use the Gelid Solutions GC-Extreme thermal paste next instead of MX-4. Thanks for your advice all Dad's Laptop Specs (service manual download link PDF): Lenovo G710 laptop: Intel i3 4000m cpu, 4GB ddr3-1600 ram, nvidia 720m gpu, kingston 240gb ssd hdd, dvd-rw, wifi and bluetooth etc.
  12. Fellow Techies, I am selling my Corsair AIO cooler. However, the copper base is discolored. I will post a picture if need be. How can I get that new-ish shine back on it?
  13. So what would the temperatures be if someone used copper pipes or even sliver pipes cause they conduct heat much better just load a few dozen fans and some copper or sliver tubing and away we go with the super cool computer.
  14. Hey there! I was wondering to anyone reading this (if anyone at all) knew what was better. More heatpipes that are shorter or less heatpipes that are longer.
  15. Hello guys, I'd like to follow up on my old thread I started explaining what and why I'd like to do to my GPU's heatsink, it's sorta long to explain so please just read the old one as I've explained with pictures and in detail what I'm about to do. So basically I found some PS3 copper shims that supposedly increase cooling for the core (I don't know how since I assume it doesn't have the misaligned cooler like I do) and It's about the size I need it to be. I also found a seller on ebay who sells cut to size copper sheets that are 0.8mm in thickness vs the 1.2mm thick PS3 shims and I'd actually like a rectangular 30x20 piece just to cover the 3rd heatpipe so this is why I'm considering the bigger sheet to cut it to size. My thinking is if I take the thinner shim it will be less big of an insulator (even if it's copper I'm still adding another layer between the core and heatpipes) but I'm not 100% certain on that and this is where I need your advice. I'll see what temperature whichever route I go to yields and since they're so cheap I can not even use them if they make things worse. PS: I've taken into considerations changing thermal paste and I will buy NT-H1 fairly soon which should only improve what I will see. I also know the risk of shorting things out and the extra height that the screws might not be able to reach to. Thanks
  16. In my small town in Croatia we have explicitly copper wired network options because they find it expensive to drill some holes and replace the cables with fiber optic ones (so i've been told). Is there a way for me to lets say buy an fiber optics converter that converts the copper wire to the fiber optics cable so i can get faster and a more reliable network or there is no way to simply do it? My current down speed is 7.6 Mbps and upload is 0.45 Mbps. The funniest part is that i am paying my ISP for a down speed of 25 Mbps but they simply can't get it through to me...
  17. Hey, someone on newegg worned in the review that because Fractal Design S24 (water cooler) uses aluminium radiators in could cause galvanic corrosion (btw i know what it is). So I just want to know whats the view on aluminum coolers and how often are they used. And yes my build will include copper parts (the pc was just ordered today, but can easily cancel it) Thy *later* nvm, as far as i can see almost all coolers have aluminum parts
  18. Is it possible to use copper pipe for a custom water cooling loop. I know how to work with copper piping because I took plumbing in school
  19. So I know this has been discussed before, and that Linus has done two videos on it already. But, I feel like the attempts didn't take into account a few better options. 1. 3D printed material. There are better material they could print with that could have been burned off/melted out much easier. Woodfill PLA or gluetype material generally used for support. Besides that, I'm not sure what % they used to fill the interior of their cooler, but if they make it 10% solid instead of 100% that should allow for much easier burning off. 2. Design. I think the solid block with a straight line of fins is the laziest design possible. Even if their Heatsink would have came out as designed, it still probably would have been at best the same as stock Intel coolers. Why not go for a high surface area geometry or even fractal design. Yes this would be harder to design, but this is 2017 and LTT obviously knows enough to either Matlab it up themselves or find a fanboy online who knows exactly about this type of design. 3. Aluminum instead of copper?? Why?! That amount of copper is going to cost nothing especially if you're just scrapping it out! And for god sakes, use some Borax in that melted metal before pouring it! 4. Bypass the heat spreader IHS. Why not take their CPU IHS off, weld it in some fashion to their finished heatsink, and then Thermal paste that bad boy back on directly to the silicon? Eliminate every issue and give them known improvement In thermals. Believe it or not, I'm actually working to do something like this. I'm in the process of stripping about 200ft of copper coax and collecting it. That should give me ~10lbs to work with. I've used solidworks to design other objects, I own a Prusa i3 MK2 3D printer that I know how to use. If anyone is at all interested in bouncing ideas around with me, I'm more than excited to talk with you.
  20. Cryorig 2017-2018 There are 2 main topics of discussion I've seen among Cryorig enthusiasts. 1.- When will the AF41 be released after we saw a picture of it leaked in later 2016. and 2.- After Computex, what coolers will be offered with the Cryorig Cu treatment and when? I spoke with a rep from research idea gear who would like to remain anonymous. Questions and Answers Q1. When will the AF41 be officially released, and can it be made from 2-3 R1 Ultimate coolers? A1. "unfortunately the AF41 is just idea for the April fool event and we never plan to release it and make it available"-"No, you could not assemble the R1s into an AF41 just by yourself." (Would they help me make it then??) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Q2. What will the launch look like for the copper coolers? A2. "for the Cu series, the C7 will be first product to be released in Copper edition." _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Below is a picture of the ginormous Cryorig AF41 and two pictures of the Cu edition Cryorig C7 cooler first to be released soon, thanks for reading!
  21. Hello! I'm new to water-cooling and am looking to build my first loop. Since I am super cheap I am trying to buy parts for as cheap as possible. Because of this, I don't want to buy the "standard" EK Pump/Reservoir that matches the rest of my copper stuff. Instead, I found an XSPC X4 Photon 270mm Reservoir/Pump (aluminum I think). My problem is that I have a copper water-block and radiator. Will the aluminum pump/reservoir hurt my loop? If I use an anti-corrosive fluid will it be ok? Thanks for the help! lahren1
  22. [BUILD IN PROGRESS] A few months ago, I and a friend were conversing about water cooling, as all self respecting pc nerds do from time to time. And on on that day, we hatched a plan. Now, despite living on a pittance, he has managed to accrue enough money to water-cool his machine. We have opted (for better or worse) to use 12mm copper tubes for the build. The hardware itself consists of a 5820k and a single (for the moment) gtx1070 gpu. For dissipation, we have a single 420mm radiator, to be mounted in the top of the case, and a 280mm rad to be mounted on the front intakes. The case is a fractal design define r5. the parts: We plan to add posts to this thread more or less in real time, as the build progresses over the course of the night next few days (things are never that simple are they?). Neither of us have significant experience with water cooling so things could get interesting, as such, we would appreciate any tips and tricks you might have to offer! [PROGRESS UPDATE - 22.07.17] The build build has reached a key point, we have installed and leak tested the loop, and done a bit of quick and dirty overclocking, bumping the GPU up by ~150mhz and the cpu from 3.3 to 4.4. Work on the machine is pretty much done as of now, but there are a number of hings still on the agenda: Loop temperature controlled cooling, I plan to design a small circuit for controlling pwm fans using a standard g1/4 threaded temperature sensor. We could use a pre-made internal board like the aquero 6, but if you ask me, from an engineering standpoint that product is far overpriced for the functionality it offers. I'm confident I can build a device that will do what we need for pennies on the dollar by comparison. I will likely put up a thread detailing the design once it's done. Cable sleeving, enough said! No water cooling build is complete without custom sleeved and routed cables, extensions are for lame people , and for people with more space for cable management... Overclocking and bench-marking. Our preliminary overclocking was very lacklustre. Just a quick and dirty voltage/frequency boost. A proper overclocking session (or several) are needed to really push the system to its maximum potential. Also a couple of insane-o-volts 5ghz benchmark runs could be fun These tasks however, will have to be left for a time when we have more, well, time (and money). Likely in a few months time when sam picks up a second 1070. This build has been very tiring for the both of us, taking place over the course of two all night sessions just two days apart. We both need a rest. The finished machine with all the cables installed:
  23. Hello, I have a XSPC RX 360 Rad and 240 plus a new Alphacool Eisfach reservoir, XSPC raystorm AMD cpu block bought in September and XSPC razor gtx 680 water block. The gpu block and rads are about 5 years old. But the res and cpu block are brand new now I put them together in late September. By end of October I saw this dust sitting at the bottom of the res. So I took everything apart and saw the pipes, res, fittings with this green/blue stuff. So I started cleaning them up the res, fittings and pipes. Now the rad, gpu block and cpu block I still haven't touched. I have cleaned most of the res and fittings but they are still some left as you can see in the pictures Now doing some research I think it could be corrosion or copper oxidation. All the parts are copper and brass. Except this new res which has metals in it and I think this could be the culprit. I need you guys help on how to clean it and put my loop back up Thank you
  24. Hi! I'm planning to use the two following pieces in my next watercooling loop. But the waterblock states that it's "true chrome plated". I was wondering if I'm risking any galvanic reaction (corrosion) by mixing a conventional copper based block and this gpu block? Does that plating change anything? Here are the two components. Thanks upfront! CPU block: http://www.swiftech.com/ApogeeXL2.aspx GPU block: http://www.swiftech.com/KOMODONV-LEGTX1080.aspx
  25. Hello ! I would like to know if this kind of damage would make this cpu cooler unusable . It was damaged in shipping and i am afraid after instaling it not to damage some other more expensive components . Are there gases or liquids in the heat pipes? Or a mixture of both as i read a bit today about air coolers . Do any of you know how to remedy this ? Cheers !
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