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Are other people experiencing connectivity issues (4G, Phone and text messages) on the Pixel 6, Pixel 7 and Pixel 8 (as well as the pro-versions)? There seems to a lot of reports of this issue on reddit and if it has been going on for several generations I feel this should be mentioned in the reviews, both to warn potential buyers and put pressure on Google to fix this. It seems to be a hardware problem with the modem used on the Tensor chips. For me the issue first manifested when I leave home and leave WiFi, Spotify would report being offline and fail to play music. I also have had people failing to call me reporting "being told to try again later", texts not being sent. I really can't trust that any messages, calls or mobile internet will work. Sometimes a reboot will fix the internet. Have you experienced any of that? I will have to try another phone provider. I bought a Pixel 8 in part because it had glowing reviews from several reviewers including LTT. I had previously sworn off the Pixel brand because despite the great software the hardware was too unreliable: my Pixel 1 phone died due to microphone hardware issues, and when I got Pixel buds RMAed them twice with a fuzzing noise before abandoning and getting a refund. This is a really shit issue because there are an infinite number of factors that Google can blame apart from the phone (SIM, network provider, location) to deny an RMA or resist a refund: it's hard to prove that it IS the phone as you can't control for all factors. What good is 7 years of software support if the phone can't even fulfill it's primary function on day 1? Edit: My main SIM is an e-SIM and my secondary is a physical SIM. This comes up as a factor in various threads.

My computer will randomly lose internet connection progressively on ONE computer. What I mean by this is that it'll lose certain connectivity features, without losing others. For example, when it happens I can keep watching the youtube video I have pulled up (and it will continue to buffer past its current buffer point), but I can not load any new web pages. Additionally, I will suddenly no longer be able to send any discord messages, or pull up a discord server not already pulled up, but I can continue to receive messages on my current discord server. I can even see the messages I send from my phone on the same discord server, but again, any attempts to send messages from this computer just error out when sending. On steam I will still be able to send and receive messages correctly, additionally I can continue playing MMO/online games at this point without issue (but again, can't load any new web pages anywhere) - after a little while longer, then I lose all connection, including current youtube videos will hit the end of their buffer and not continue loading buffer, discord will disconnect me, and I'll lose connection to whatever game I'm playing. Something this issue will resolve itself over several hours. Alternatively, rebooting my computer immediately restores the connection. Rebooting the router also immediately restores the connection. Or I can go into advanced network settings, disable the network adapter, enable the network adapter, and that restores the connection (though the connection appears to drop again quicker this last way compared to rebooting the PC). Originally this issue was happening on wifi, so I ran a brand new ethernet cord to the PC, but the issue was identical. Furthermore, none of the other devices, including 4 other computers have this issue on this network, it is only this computer. This is an issue I've been having for several months, but its been getting progressively worse/more frequent over time. Originally it wouldn't even disconnect fully - it would only go into the state of not sending discord messages, and not loading new webpages, but could still play games and watch video content of youtube/streaming services already pulled up. The complete connection loss (discord disconnects fully, can't play multiplayer games, etc) is a recent development within the past month or so. This computer is quite robust. its a 4090 and an i9 13900k both on a shared custom loop that I did myself. The motherboard is a gigabyte Z790 aorus master. Windows 11 is on a 980pro. For the first 6 months or so of this PC being complete, there were no network issues. The first network issues began immediately after 1 event. 1) Comcast switching the entire neighborhood over from the old wires to the new fiber system. A lot of other individuals in the neighborhood reported starting having issues around this point too. - Though since it is ONLY this PC and none of the other PCs or devices on the network, I'm not sure how it could be related. I've updated the bios 3 different times since this issue first began (three different bio revisions, that's how long this issue has been going), I've updated windows at least a dozen times. I've updated all drivers I could find, including downloading the Killer wireless utility (this was back when the issue was on wifi, before I ran an ethernet line), the ethernet adapter is a different brand though, but again the issue is the same. I've even tried connecting to a different router (I have two different routers ran to the modem). Nothing at all puts a dent into this issue. Sometimes the issue appears after several hours of using the computer, sometimes the issue appears after just a few minutes since the last restart. I really don't want to have to reinstall windows, because basically none of my programs are on my C drive where windows keeps them active, they're all on different drives. I've successfully tweaked and fixed issues in registry before, but it was never network related. I'd be more inclined to go this route if anyone thinks it could potentially be a fix without doing a completely clean Windows install that'll take several days straight to fix all my programs again. Please I'll gladly take any help from anyone who actually reads this and recommends something that I haven't already explicitly stated I've done.

Hi, yesterday my modem was taken by my isp to change the account binded to it to a new account that I made On returning, I saw that many of the devices in my hopuse are not getting internet from the router even if it is connected and I can even login to the router settings - but no internet. I left it as I thought it will be over when the DHCP resets itself. Today when I woke up the problem still exists and when I went further looking, I found this The NTP config was disabled and the time was 1970?! I enabled it and when applied, it didn't change anything, it is still showing 1970 and not updating!! On further looking I found that the modem ( which my ISP reset) was also having the same issue and was locked to 1970 January. I tried to manually change the date by adding NTP servers, but it still resets to Jan 1970 and not budging from that. Now these are my questions. 1. Can only my ISP change the modem time? 2. Are my router times affected due to this modem time? if not why is it not changing when I change it? 3. Are my device connection issues due to this time discrepancy? 4. If i tell the ISP to come are reset the time, will the devices be start working fine?

So I'm not sure if whatever transmitter/receiver that's included in my z490 Godlike motherboard is just crappy compared to what's in my phone but I can walk around brick walls and down hallways for quite a ways before experiencing noticeable degradation when my Jaybird Vista 2's are connected to my phone. But I swear when connected to my motherboard I could just turn my head a certain direction and my audio will cut out and be spotty. Is there any way to improve connectivity to remedy this? (I am connected to the stereo sound not the AG handsfree audio option)

Anyone else has this problem that when AirPods connect to my windows pc, the Bluetooth doesn't work 10/10, instead, it connects and sounds ok but at the second it starts crackling and sounding awful. I want to fix this so bad but I have seen lots of tutorials and still can't fix it. Somehow it sounds like the connection isn't strong enough, but my Bluetooth from the pc works great with all other devices, and my AirPods sound great while connected to my phone and being 20 meters away, so it doesn't make sense. It must be some sort of configuration or something related to that, if anyone knows how to fix this it would be greatly appreciated. Some bluetooth expert, please help me fix this

I recently went to purchase one of the new series controllers to replace my old xb1 s controller, and i am trying to play multiple games, and the connection is, well, just weird, kinda hard to explain as well. I run with bluetooth connection to my pc from my controller, and the connection itself seems to work fine, but for some reason it seems to detect that there is a second controller connected, when there isnt. I have tried playing 2 totally different games with this controller. in WWE 2K19, the game is fine, but it labels my buttons as 1234 instead of ABXY, and thinks there is a second controller connected as well, causing the menus to skip over when i use the dpad or sticks to navigate. Then i tried LEGO Marvel Super Heroes, and i couldn't even progress because it thought i had a 2P instead of a COM, so the 2nd character was not moving whatsoever. my series x controller has the newest firmware, yet it still does this, so if anyone knows what's causing this, please help a fellow gamer out :) Thanks

Hi there people. I got a Divoom Ditoo Plus speaker last year and it suddenly started having issues. Every time I turn it off and on, it wants me to pair with my phone again. It's like it resets it's Bluetooth settings every time I turn it off. Also, the artworks in the community app can't be applied as the speaker gets stuck in the loading. Does anyone know a way to factory reset this speaker? Thanks.

Hey Guys, I have question to ask. I am a Mac user (sorry) with a MBP 16". My ports support Thunderbolt 3 and USB 3.1 Gen 2 (or as its now known 3.2 Gen2x1 ). I love Thunderbolt because of the upload speeds & the support it has for my Monitor. However, thunderbolt storage devices are expensive so that leads me onto my question. Currently, Thunderbolt 3 supports 40Gbps upload and download through the same exact port whereby the USB 3.2 2x1 supports a maximum of 10Gbps. So, why can/can't USB 3.2 simply be updated by software to USB 4.0. Given that the port already has the 40Gbps bandwidth via Thunderbolt, what's stopping them from to take advantage of the psychical capacity the port already has? Thanks in advance!

I have a really old PC which I can't afford to upgrade so I was wondering is there a way to establish a connection between my pc and my phone (Moto G4 32gb) such that my phone can also process data for my pc? Edit: I want to render videos(on Vegas pro) and make some music(FL studio)

I have my PC in my room about 4,5 - 5 m away from the router. There is absolutely no way I could connect the PC via Ethernet (house architecture doens't help much) so I'm stuck on Wi-Fi. Since that's the case, can anyone recommend a good hardware solution for the receptor that is reliable and works fine (currently own a USB antenna and 10 mpbs download speed). Thanks in advance!

Currently, I have an Asus X550JK laptop, but I have connectivity issues whenever I play games. I would always have ping spikes, while my other friends would not have any ping-related issues at all. I heard you could upgrade the wifi-card in the laptop. The issue is that I'm not very knowledgeable in this area and a bit scared to just buy a random wifi-card. I was wondering which wifi-card would help fix my issue with ping spikes.

hello everyone...would like to put out a question regarding my xbox 1 s and it's connectivity with regular HDMI cables my issus is that i seem to have connection issues with my regular gold plated HDMI 3m & 5m cables when my new xbox 1 s is connected yet when i use the cable that came with the xbox 1 s which does not have a gold plated connection it works fine with out any flickering screen now with my set up i need these extra long cables in order to help cable manage and to keep them hidden from view...the regular HDMI cable from microsoft just isn't long enough for me to run it anywhere it cannot be seen....does anyone here know of the type of HDMI cable that i need and can they provide links....and just for your info i am based in the UK and the TV i am using is an LG ultra HD 43' wall mounted

So In the past I've used a raid box because my old tower was still on AM2+ and didn't have RAID capabilities- I was young and didn't know there was such thing as raid card. As a photographer, I would like to occasionally attach my laptop to main tower to edit from the comfort of my couch, However I'll be building my new rig this weekend and it occurred to me that it may be a bit more challenging to hook up a different computer to the RAID now that it will be living in my tower. Built on a ASUS Maximus X Hero z370.

Hello! I bought used canon IR2016 recently. The printer is fully functioning. I connected it to my win10 laptop and installed driver. The printer showed up in device manager, but every time I try to print something, nothing comes out. I troubleshooted the printer and got the result showed in sc. Shouldn't usb3 be backwards compatible with usb2? How can I solve the problem?

Hi, Wondering if you all could help with me some home internet issues. I just moved to a new place in the Raleigh, NC area, and I have Time Warner Cable/Spectrum as my ISP. The complex is supposed to be pre wired for TWC. I am using an Arris Surfboard SB6121. I have already called the ISP to provision the device by providing the MAC address. However, the "internet" light never comes on, the send and receive lights continue to blink, and the "transmit" light slowly blinks blue. I have a laptop plugged directly into the modem, but it receives DNS errors when trying to load webpages. Plugging in a router that I know works allows all devices to connect to the router, but I encounter the same issues when trying to load webpages. I have power-cycled the modem, had the ISP confirm they can see the modem on their network, switched coax cables, switched ethernet cables, all without success. ISP had no idea what was going on, and I ran out of time to troubleshoot further. I will be calling them back later today after work; any ideas on what questions I could ask them to drive the process forward? Thank you all in advance. Mods, if this needs to be in the networking section, please feel free to move it. UPDATE: Turns out that Time Warner Cable "forgot to connect the internet to my modem". The new tech saw the problem immediately and fixed it. Thank you all for the help; crazy that it was such a simple fix, but at least I learned something today

So I am running a Plex server from my home PC which is also my gaming rig. I recently (2 days ago) tried to start up Steam and noticed it wouldn't let me connect. "Steam is having trouble connecting to the Steam servers." I said no big deal and called it a night. Today when trying to play a movie onto my Xbox 360, it didn't show my server. I check and the PC was up with the Plex Media Server app running. So I checked on my phone and it did show my server, but showed it as "direct connection unavailable". I am very unsure what would have caused this so suddenly since I have not touched any of my network setup (router, modem or locally) Any help would be appreciated.

My USB ports keep disconnecting and reconnecting if I have too many devices plugged in but I have 7 USB ports and when I use about 5 or more this happens.. I know its not my PSU because my PC only requires 350-400wh and I have a 600wh, so i cant figure out the issue. I've also disabled all the USB settings for power management.

Okay lemme explain this quick: I've build together a small server, it runs ESXI 6,5 which is on 192.168.2.9, this works perfectly, i got my windows 2016 server on 192.168.2.21 (static) so i setup the VPN, it works internally, but when I try to connect externally I get a error "The remote connection was not made because the attempted vpn tunnels failed. i made 192.168.2.21 my DMZ host, i port forwarded port 47, and 1723 What am i doing wrong? Using PPTP

So I have a question, what is the right way to connect all these parts, gpu, motherboard and screen, first time building pc Gonna buy this monitor: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01A9EN4YU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE This motherboard: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B015FY4HLS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&th=1 and a gtx 1080. So i read that they must be connected in certain way to achieve the 100mhz for that monitor, like display port and not hdmi, since its my first time i have no idea what they mean, Anyone know whats the right way to plug them in? Do i plug the monitor to the motherboard hdmi or display port? Or do i plug it to the graphics card hdmi or display port? I got 4 holes here, which one is the correct one? How are they different is there any difference at all? Or is this for people who run multiple monitors

Hello, So I am new to this forum, made this account because I got confused by my something my internet provider (short: Inet-prov) said to me. My modem (from my Inet-prov) is set up in ipv6, but this setup does not allow port-forwarding for my VPN connection to my RB-pi. In my contact with customer-services, they said they can switch this to IPV4 and then port-forwarding will be supported, but newer cell-phones then might not have internet in my network. This is where i start scratching my head, bc to my knowledge, my RB-Pi (set up with Pi-Hole) allready only distributes IPV4- adresses to any client, and i have had no troubles with connectivity yet. Can anyone tell me how -or even if- the claim of my internet provider is true? it seems ridiculous to me. Cheers from The Netherlands, Dick

Hey guys, I just bought a Fiio Q1 Mk II to go with my BD 990dt earphones. I recall reading somewhere that in order to get the full benefit out of the dac/amp it needed to be plugged in via the usb to micro usb cable. Firstly, is that true? Secondly, when doing that, it seems like the Q1 also drains the battery of whatever hardware I'm using to recharge its own battery. Of course, this is undesirable since it both defeats the purpose of it having its own battery and also significantly diminishes said battery life. Is there a fix to that (haven't been able to find anything so far)? Thanks in advance James

Hi there. Simple question: can i connect UAD Apollo Twin Mk2 to LG 34WK95U-W monitor with thunderbolt 3 cable and having no issues (like latency, compatibility, lags, etc)? Important note: the cable chain is this - LG 34WK95U-W>DisplayPort 1.4 to an RTX 2070 Super and UAD Apollo Twin Mk2>thunderbolt 3 cable to LG 34WK95U-W.

Coraair H45 - It has a one 3 pin cable and one 4 pin cable MSI ATZ Z370 A PRO - It has only 4 pin connectors...no single 3 pin connectors If I connect one of the 4 pin connector to the CPU Fan in the mobo, where should I connect the other 3 pin cable coming from the cpu cooler?

Hello guys, i have an issue! i own a LG tv super UHD4k model number <<SJ850V>> I recently format my pc (Windows 10 Pro) and when i connect tv to pc through HDMI i can't get into windows! It Asks my mail's password and when i put it and the circle dots starting to roll on to get into windows then the screen goes black for a couple of seconds and it goes me back to login screen and asks for my password all over again and again! In the past (Windows 10 Pro too) i was disconnecting my Pc Monitor (BenQ) so only HDMI was on and i was getting into windows with my TV through <<Safety Mode>> for once so my GPU (gtx 1070) can "read" it and then everything was normal with both screens connected! But now i can't do that cause TV says i don't have signal until i get into login screen so it comes up and asks for my password again! I can't get in safety mode cause screen says "No Signal" during post!! MY NERVES ARE NOT VERY WELL! Sorry for my syntax, i am from Greece!

I've been using a Dual Shock 4 for gaming on my Gaming laptop for quite a while now, recently I just disconnected ( didn't remove the device from the Bluetooth settings) and it completely stopped working like for no any other reason than disconnecting the Dual Shock 4 ( I use DS4 to emulate the Controller anyhow the Controller is not getting detecting) When I connect my Dual shock 4 to windows it gets paired but it doesn't connect to my windows 10 PC so DS4 is having a hard time recognizing the device I guess? So far I have tried a clean install of windows Uninstalled Bluetooth Drivers and re installed Tried basic Bluetooth Drivers and also Manufacture Bluetooth drivers (From their very own website itself btw its Intel bluetooth) ( Fyi Controller works perfectly on any other device, I've tried to connect it to my Work Laptop and it works, and I have an Old Dell Latitude ( which was from my High school lol) Everything works perfectly the controller also gets detected on to DS4 in those devices ) Do you have any solution? ( I am having a doubt that my Bluetooth mac Address might be stuck somewhere with the controller, thing is I tried to change it also but some softwares its not supported )