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Howdy, partners. Recently I bought two Samsung SSDs: the 970 EVO (250 gb NVMe used as boot drive) and the 860 EVO (500 gb SATA used for most frequently played games). The 970 works great, but I ran into issues with the 860 — specifically, in games. Synthetic benchmarks (attached somewhere below) show good results, so I assume the culprit must be software related, not a faulty drive. Firmware is up to date, SSD is connected with a cable that came with the mobo, which itself only has 6 Gb/s ports. I've been using these drives for about two weeks now, and here are the problems so far. Rainbow Six: Siege Map load times take 75–80 seconds (both 5v5 online and lone wolf vs. AI) only in fullscreen mode. This is abysmal and leads to being votekicked when other players load in under 20 seconds and (understandably) don't want to wait. Weird thing is, minimizing the game or running in windowed mode shortens loading to around 5 seconds. I have no explanation for this. Loading from an HDD (in fullscreen) takes 10–20 seconds. DOOM Eternal Loading a level from main menu takes around 20 seconds with the majority of that time being stuck on 99%. Voice lines break up and/or lag behind characters by several seconds during cutscenes; voice lines break up randomly during gameplay; music stops playing randomly where it shouldn't (like during a firefight) and may continue dozens of seconds later. My only theory is that the drive has issues streaming heavy, uncompressed audio files. Running in fullscreen or windowed doesn't make a difference. These issues don't exist with the game running off of the NVMe, and load times there are around 3–5 seconds. Didn't test on an HDD. Forza Horizon 4 During a high-speed race the gameworld stops loading in at some point, usually after around 15 seconds. Cars drive on an invisible track, most of the scenery doesn't load, while you can only see the skybox. Also, everything stops, and an in-game message appears saying that my CPU or storage are having performance issues. Doesn't happen on the NVMe or HDD. Ori and the Will of the Wisps Fast travel takes 15–20 seconds with the majority of that time spent with Ori in a spinning animation before teleporting. On an HDD this takes 8–10 seconds and the animation plays for way less time before teleporting. System specs: Windows 10 Home, 64-bit, ver. 1909 (freshly installed on the 970 EVO two weeks ago) Aorus Z370 Ultra Gaming rev. 1.0 (latest non-beta BIOS, all six SATA ports are 6 gb/s) Core i7 8700k locked to all-core turbo (3.7 GHz) 16 Gb DDR4 at 2666 Mhz (Kingston HyperX Fury, 2x8 Gb) EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 (manually OC'd but reset to default during testing) Corsair CX750 (worked for 7 years now) All drives run in AHCI mode, paging file is enabled and managed by Windows. Please, help me with this one, I'm at a complete loss. I scoured the internet for a solution or some clues and came up with nothing. Transferring large files to the drive happens at the expected speed of ~500 mb/s, so the issue is exclusive to games.

TLDR at bottom My monitor (acer sb220q bi 21.5') black-screens, there are no failing capacitors as far as i can see. To clarify when i say black-screen it will flash an image as soon as it gets a fresh display signal (turning on the monitor or plugging in the HDMI cable) the image will go black or will fade very quickly, so quickly that it took me a while to realize that it was fading. I am writing this post using this monitor, and you may be asking yourself "Well if the monitor gives a black-screen then how are you writing this?!?!?", the answer to this questions is simple but to me it makes no sense. You see to get a constant display, the kind you would expect from a monitor, i have to plug the HDMI cable into my computer and then pull it out again, and then i have to repeat this process until my display works like normal. Every time i unplug the cable it flashes an image for a split second then goes back to darkness. Most of the time it will go from this flash state but it will occasionally give me a normal display but dim on the sides, it has a bright spot at the center that spreads out as it goes upwards, similar to what would happen if one were to put a flashlight facing upwards on a wall (similar to the image contained in this post). The brightness doesn't fade as the top of the screen is reached, instead it fades as you go outwards. I cannot get a picture of this happening because it is rare and i also don't want to put my only monitor into a state that is questionably functional with the only fix being one that is questionable at best, but the shape of the light is similar to the shape of what you get when you look up parabola. To clarify the light starts at the bottom of the screen and grows bigger as it gets closer to the top of the screen. things i have tested: I have not tried any fixes yet but i have tested a few things, i have plugged it into my playstation to verify that it is not a problem with my computer. I have changed the hdmi cable and alternated three different cables. I have checked the capacitors for any bulge which is a sign of damage. I have looked online for any similar situations and have come to nothing. information summary: acer sb220q bi problem seems to get worse when i have my osd on a high contrast mode when turned on a few frames are displayed for a fraction of a second only thing that has worked as a "fix" is re-plugging it in until it works again sometimes gives me a single pillar of image brightness that is darker on the sides but is wider as it grows taller (reference parabola or the image on post TLDR Monitor likes to flash me, goes shy, and only works until i pull out and go back in repeatedly, sometimes teases me by showing its parabola THE LIGHT DOES NOT GET DARKER AS IT GROWS UPWARDS AND THE LIGHT STARTS FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE SCREEN

Hi everybody, After LTT's latest video as of writing this post (https://youtu.be/Q2wAsxbLyMM) they showed the new? LTT Displate plates (https://displate.com/linustechtips/channel). I was interested in them so I looked at the store. I found some confusing and contradicting namings of items in the store. HDD image, FANS title FANS image, GPU title And like this also "GPU image, RAM title" and "Ram image, HDD title" Funily, the CPU design is displayed correctly. Can someone recreate this problem? Is it a problem on my end, on the store or LTT input?

So after watching the 8 gamers, 1 station video, this question was really stinging me. For each individual monitor a person uses, could you possibly split up or reserve a certain amount of cores, RAM, GPU VRAM, Storage space, etc. for each specific monitor.

I've obviously mentioned the problem in my last post, but I've tried every keyboard, from a wired, wireless and ps/2. So the power comes on, no beeps, everything is working, including the GPU, fans and the tuf gaming screen comes up with click f2 or del for UEFI Bios. But, the keyboard comes on right at the start, but caps lock or num lock lights won't come on, so I think there's an issue with the motherboard ports. The one thing I know I had to fix in was the USB 3.0 by the power switch, which charges my phone fine. Obviously it's a newly built PC, so there is no OS and it's stuck on the TUF screen. What do I do to fix this? There were no connectors/wires for the ports and so on around the IO shield. The motherboard is a Asus X570 Plus (Wifi), CPU Ryzen 3900x, GPU 2070 super with a Corsair 650w unit. So, everything powers on, but the USB ports power stuff up at the start, but don't seem to be working, as no matter how many times I press del or f2, no response.

So I built myself a brand spanking new PC and everything actually worked! It was time to install Windows 10. Put in the disk did some things off a YouTube video I watched and installed Windows! I restarted the computer to make sure all was good. I launched into the file explorer when I noticed... it installed as 32 bit! I (thought I) needed 64 bit. As well as one of my partisans needed to be formatted (remember that). So I attempted a reinstall. When I got confused in the Custom install menu. So I decided "Never mind I will just live with 32 bit and figure out a different way to format. " But it wouldn't let me back in to windows. So I had to reinstall it. Then (because I was very lost and confused) I decided to format all the partisans I made. ALL OF THEM. So now I can not install windows on any of them. So since I had nothing on the HDD I decided to wipe the hard drive of anything. Let it do the thing for about an hour then said, "sorry, we ran into a problem while resetting your PC. I think I put my PC into a never ending pit. I think I need to get a new HDD now. Plz help

So, I have an array being given to me by a MySQL query. Here is the array, as it is printed by print_r function: Array ( [policydatakey] => 1 [policydatapolicykey] => 1 [policydatastatus] => Active [policydatapolicyname] => Policy 1111 [policydataprocessorname] => My Processor [policydatabranchcode] => Branch1 [policydatafiletaxid] => Taxid1 [policydatafilestate] => XX [policydatafilelicense] => Lic111 [policydatainsuredname] => Trim [policydatarisklocation] => 4 [policydataunderwritingcompany] => Stuff n Thangs [policydatapolicystate] => XX [policydatapolicynumber] => 1111 [policydatapolicytype] => 8 [policydatamultistate] => 9 [policydatalineofbusiness] => 0 [policydataeffectivedate] => 1 [policydataendorsementeffectivedate] => 2 [policydataenddate] => 3 [policydatapremium] => 4 [policydatainsuredamount] => 5 [policydatapolicyfee] => 6 [policydatainspectionfee] => 7 [policydatacatfee] => 8 [policydatasltaxes] => 9 [policydatafiremarshaltax] => 0 [policydatasurcharge] => 5-surcharge [policydataadditionalassessment] => 2 [policydatastampingfee] => 3 [policydatainvoicenumber] => XXXX [policydatainvoicedate] => 2016-02-02 [policydataac1] => 6 [policydataac1date] => 2016-01-01 [policydataac1comments] => 8 [policydataac2] => 9 [policydataac2date] => 0 [policydataac2comments] => 1 [policydataac3] => yes (ac3) [policydataac3date] => 3 [policydataac3comments] => Ac3 Comments go here [policydatacomments] => My Comments ) When I run is_array on the variable that holds that array, it returns boolean TRUE. i.e. if (is_array($data)==TRUE){ printf("It is an array."); }else{ printf("It is not an array."); } Comes back as "It is an array." When I try to have that array printed to a .CSV using fputcsv(), I get the following: Catchable fatal error: Argument 2 passed to fputcsv() must be an array, null given... When I try to have that array printed to a spreadsheet XLSX file, using xlsxwriter.class.php (see here), it complains of the same thing. Neither have a problem using a simple test array, as follows: $array = array( array('year','month','day'), array('2004','8','20'), array('2008','12','13'), ); The way I'm getting the array I'm trying to use is with the following: $data = $conn->query($sql); // $conn is the connection credentials to the MySQL Database, and $sql is the sql query. $data_array = array(); $data_array = $data->fetch_assoc(); fetch_assoc() is supposed to return an associative array, which it seems to, rather than an object. I have no idea what the issue is.

I am becoming very desperate so i turned to the forum where i think the most competent pc users are! specs: GTX 1080 strix ryzen 5 2600x - box cooler Asus B450 f gaming MOBO Corsair Vengeance lpx 16gb 3000mhz (8x2) EVGA Supernova g3 650w +gold Kingston SSDNow 120gb Samsung 860 evo 500gb Win 10 home My problem is horrible frametimes...my pc works wonderfully for a while (sometimes almost a day, sometimes just 2 hours) and then i get these horrible, HORRIBLE frametime spikes. They cause big stutters that make every more demanding game unplayable. The games runs perfectly BEFORE this occurs. Ive done pretty much anything: reinstalled windows, updated bios, chipset drivers, SSD drivers uninstalled gpu drivers with DDU and installing newest drivers atleast 4 times + trying older drivers a bunch of different settings in both games and Nvidia CP and Nvidia inspector with V sync, pre-rendered frames etc. disabling windows 10 settings such as the DVR thing and performance settings Changing name on the GameBarPresenceWriter.exe program In windows to stop it from running Switching out memory for another pair Switching out to an identical gtx 1080 all this, to NO effect whatsoever. pls help!

While ASUS' site states that this motherboard accepts memory up to 2200mhz (if you're lucky), intel states that this motherboard's chipset does not support overclocking memory. ASUS has alledgedly tested memory speeds up to 2400mhz successfully. Are XMP profiles seperate from ram overclocking? Bios allows for timings adjustments, speed adjustments and XMP profile selection. No voltage adjustments. is it altering speeds and timings, but not voltages? we tried a 2400mhz rated kit of 2x8GB ram by G.skill cl11 timings 1.65V. It was honestly like it didn't apply the voltage and it wouldn't even boot above 1600mhz. https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/P8Q77M2/

Two weeks ago, I was playing my games as usual when I noticed my CPU was going to 1.19 GHZ for no reason which resulted in my getting less FPS. I checked my temps and saw that they were perfectly normal. I then restarted my computer to try and go into my BIOS however this didn't end up happening. After I restarted, it turned off and then turned on and gave me the debug code 00. All my fans spins, the lights on the motherboard turn on. I've looked everywhere online and pretty much tried everything. I'll list everything I've tried. - Reset CMOS - Take out Motherboard battery - Reseat CPU, RAM, GPU, CPU Cooler - Put RAM in different slots (I had RAM that I never used and still didn't work) - Buying new mobo and putting everything in there - Buying new CPU (this was however second hand and could have very well been faulty, not 100% sure. I've returned it to the store so I can' test it anymore, so my CPU could very well be the issue). - Buying new PSU - Checked if CPU socket pins were bent and to my knowledge, they are not bent. - Switching BIOS with the switch - Using SLOW_1 - Breadboarded and only used essential cables and hardware - Checked cables to see if they were inserted properly. I've had this computer for nearly two years, it's kinda weird how it would so something like this out of the blue. I had my I7 5820K overclocked to 4GHZ and it was perfect for two years, temps were between 55-64C while gaming and 35C while idle. Something interesting that happened was I took it to PC world and they said they couldn't fix it. I get my PC a week later and I hook it up, turn it on and it posts! Although this was stupid of me, it said press F1 to go setup or F2 to continue, I pressed F2 and got a blue screen saying "your pc needs to be repaired". It then restarted and started doing the debug code 00 again. My PC specs are CPU: I7 5820K Graphics Card: EVGA GTX 1060 3GB, Motherboards: Old motherboard is MSI x99s gaming 9 ac and the new motherboard is Gigabyte GA-X99-Soc Champion RAM: 2x8 Vengeance ddr4 ram 2133 MHZ.

Hello guy, I was just wondering when you right click and select propterties on for example a file, there are two values, one named Size and another one named Size on Disk. How could the size differ from the size on the Disk?

I'm confused by the Corsair RMA process, since you get the label from them to ship the package, but there's no address on it, only your own return address. I was wondering if I had to do more to get the address. Thanks

I was on pcpartpicker looking at GPU's when I saw a $15 Gtx 970. Naturally I screenshot red everything. It may just be a glitch. It was $15 for five minutes, now it says out of stock and is normal price. See the attaché pictures.

Okay so I'm currently picking parts for a performance PC on a budget. I'm going with the Intel 6700K and decided to go with the Gigabyte Z170 model of motherboards. Problem is there are a BUNCH of sub models with price differences (some don't even appear on PC part picker). Here are some of them: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD5 TH, Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD5, Gigabyte GA-Z170X-GAMING 5, Gigabyte GA-Z170MX-Gaming 5. Which one is better?? And which one has the best price to performance??

Okay, so I've tried looking it up online, but I cannot find a direct answer. Some people say yes, some people say no, most results are from a year ago. I bought this Motherboard http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130787 The MSI Gaming 3 H97, thinking I was buying the Gaming 3 Z97. I done goofed. I'm getting the i5-4690k, and I was hoping to overclock to at least 4.0 or 4.2 with the CM Hyper 212 Evo on it. Is it possible to do, can someone tell me from experience? Or should/can I simply return in, and then buy a Z97 board instead? I'd rather not have to go through the process of returning it, but if it means I get a reliable overclock, I will do it Thanks in advance

Ok these naming schemes are starting to get on my nerves, as if it's not enough to memorize the numbering schemes of both Nvidia and AMD now we have to worry about stupid prefixes like GTX & R# and then suffixes like X, Ti, boost and Ghz what the hell ! And it's not just Nvidia or AMD, while both have a long list of prefixes and suffixes Intel's naming scheme on the CPU side is even more confusing and AMD's CPU naming scheme isn't that much better. When is this non sense going to stop ? I mean what is the actual difference between an i5 4440 or a 4430 ? or what the hell does it mean when they add an S at the end of a name or even a T. Then we have CPUs like the i7 4771 or a 4950HQ which is actually SLOWER than a 4930K.

Hey guys, I wanted to ask the community a question and that question is the title. Does anyone else find the Steam UI, either for the website in a browser or for the Program, in the store annoying? I ask this because I can't buy multiple copies of a game I want to gift. If I can, I can't figure out how. If I do buy that game for myself, then I can't buy it for anyone else as it says "you already own this game" and there is no "add to cart" option. I find this very irritating as I gift games quite a bit, and now that the Steam Summer sale is on, I'm trying to "stock up", if you will. Thanks, Vitalius.