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I’ve been dealing with this ASUS motherboard for 2 weeks now trying to troubleshoot reason to why the XMP profile crashes Fortnite on DIMM slots 2 and 4. When I switch the DIMM to slots 1 and 3, XMP takes quite a while to Boot and post. I’ve tried contacting ASUS themselves I haven’t heard anything back yet. I bought the recommended RAM and all the parts are compatible. Please help you’re my only hope. specs~ i9-13900k Asus motherboard z790 A Wifi G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB series (Intel XMP 3.0) DDR5 RAM RTX 4070ti 1TB

So I'm going to try to make this short well including as much information as possible I've had a few PCS and have troubleshooter in the past but this is my first ground up build. As I was putting it together before I installed the PSU I fired up the PC to see if it would post before I tidied everything up and finished it posted and I finished the install and then it wouldn't boot I have power no display everything is new besides the GPU. I unplugged the SSD and left only one channel of memory in it to see if that would fix it and it didn't I also unplugged it and pulled seamoss for the night and the issue still isn't fixed everything is plugged in correctly

After approx. 6 hours of using my computer today, I visited a website for a discord scheduling bot called Sesh. I wont link it directly to avoid anyone accidentally visiting the site. Seconds after just looking at the page I heard my PC fans begin to roar so I immediately opened Core Temps and Task Manager to see what was going on. This happened the next 2 times after closing chrome and returning to the page. I've never experienced anything like this so any intel would be largely appreciated. Keep in mind throughout the day I have up to 12 tabs open, VS Code, Discord, and a handful of other programs. Problem was replicated again after closing anything that might've been contributing to the strain.

i have a dell XPS 8940, came with a gtx 1660, i got it for cad work but found out it runs games on lower setting very well. i used it for 2 years of university but all of a sudden its stopped working. So, night before the issue, i was watching YouTube, powered down normally, the next day however i got a black screen on boot then it booted up again and stared using the internal GPU, apparently my PC could no longer see my 1660, i tried to install new drivers thinking id fell behind on updates but i got the error: not compatible with this version of windows..... now if i boot the pc with the 1660 installed it get power for a second then dies, no power at all, and wont turn on. when i take the 1660 out, remove the CMOS battery for 15 secs and reboot it runs perfectly fine (using internal GPU) what could possibly be the issue here!? im stumped... extra: when im on chrome it works, YouTube is fine, but as soon as i open Netflix (on chrome) and log in, the screen goes black, EVERYTIME! forcing me to restart the pc by taking the power supply line out and removing CMOS battery before booting again.

When I turn on the computer everything changed when least expected. Was working fine for the last 3 weeks but than all of a sudden my gpu is not showing up in task manager and when I try to imstall the drivers cause they got uninstalled my pc screen shuts off even tho my pc is on. Do you guys have any idea what is the issue? FYI no red lights on motherboard.

Can anyone pls suggest me a good CPU and a compatible motherboard. Also should I consider other graphic card?. I can wait for a year if you suggest (For price drops and new cards) https://pcpartpicker.com/list/x3MYVw ProductBuilder (2).pdf

GPU in Question is evga geforce rtx 3080 ftw3 ultra gaming Case is Phantek Eclipse p600s Mobo is b660 gaming x ax ddr4 I've tried several times but it won't slot in like I've seen online. I didn't want to push it in cause I didn't want to screw up the motherboard or gpu so I might end up just getting a vertical mount for the gpu since its been a hassle for the last 2 hours of confusion and anxiety but idk yet

i don't know how but recently whenever i move my cursor to an app it automatically switched to that app? lets say im using chrome then i just hovered to the discord app to take a peak and it automatically switched me to that app. The most annoying example of this is whenever i alt tabbed outside osu! for lets say chrome, opera gx, file manager or just admiring my wallpaper slideshow and i moved my cursor to the osu! icon check what map i was playing because i forgot in the taskbar and then it switched me into the game which i never want in the first place. How do i turn whatever that annoying thing off? Thanks for the fast replies 2023-05-25 19-03-18.mp4 I Swear im not just clicking the open apps

I am looking to buy a new laptop for my college and I am really confused on which one to buy. I am in India and there aren't a lot of great options available to choose from. I have narrowed down the list to 2 devices and one is a notebook and other one is a gaming laptop (both in the same price range). The notebook has a Ryzen 7 8 core CPU with vega r3 integrated graphics. The gaming laptop is equipped with a Ryzen 5 6 core CPU paired with a GTX 1660. I mostly run apps like android studio,some DBMS apps,Photoshop,Premiere pro etc so I need those to work smoothly too.I am not a serious gamer but i do play ocassionally. I am not int AAA games but mostly would love to experience Dirt 3 and valorant with descent FPS. I have linked both of them down below if anybody wants to take a look at them. Please help me out. (Also the Notebook display is a TN panel and not an IPS one) Lenovo IdeaPad Gaming 3 AMD Ryzen 5 4600H 15.6-inch Full HD IPS Laptop (8GB/512GB SSD/Windows 10/NVIDIA GTX 1650 4GB GDDR6 Graphics https://www.amazon.in/Lenovo-IdeaPad-15-6-inch-Graphics-82EY00L9IN/dp/B08SK27PKH/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3W0K2BBO62MLT&dchild=1&keywords=lenovo+ideapad+gaming&psr=EY17&qid=1613326564&s=todays-deals&sprefix=lenovo+%2Ctodays-deals%2C491&sr=1-5 ASUS VivoBook S14 AMD Ryzen 7 4700U, 14-inch FHD Thin and Light Laptop (8GB RAM/512GB NVMe SSD/Windows 10/MS Office 2019/Integrated Graphics https://www.amazon.in/ASUS-VivoBook-Integrated-Graphics-M433IA-EB794TS/dp/B089TQD8WX/ref=sr_1_3?crid=16I6IXEYX606V&dchild=1&keywords=asus+vivobook+14+ryzen+7&qid=1613326499&sprefix=asus+vivobook+14+%2Caps%2C385&sr=8-3

Help! My computer after being put on sleep mode (pressing Sleep) will not go to sleep. Instead it makes the fans run at max RPM, the computer becomes unresponsive and I can’t literally do anything. Does anyone know what’s going on?

Hey there, I'm new to this forum (Not new to LTT), Ever since I've built this PC (specs should be listed below), last year november, I've randomly been experiencing very heavy lag spikes whenever I have my Xbox controller connected via bluetooth. They usually occur about 10-15 minutes into when I'm playing a game, but that timespan changes from game to game. My game suddenly gets very very laggy, my PC doesn't accept my controller's inputs anymore and I have to mash the "escape" key to get it to stop. Windows afterwards also becomes semi-unresponsive. I keep everything up-to-date (check it a few times a day, I don't know why lol) and even after an entire Windows reset (was another issue) and a specific reset of the Bluetooth drivers, the problem still remains. I also looked through Youtube and other Forums to no avail. If anyone has an idea how I could solve this, please let me know. PC Specs: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X MSI MPG B550 Gaming Carbon WiFi MSI Geforce RTX 3070 Gaming X Trio 16GB G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3200 CL14

So as said in title while I have a second monitor plugged into my graphics card most games (not all) when launched will immediately minimise to the taskbar and whenever I try to click on the game on the task bar, or attempt to alt+tab back onto it, it will maximise for a split second before returning to its minimised state again. This will happen until I close the game unplug the second monitor and then launch the game again. After that it will behave normally and happily. This is obviously extremely annoying as I have to unplug my second screen almost every time I launch a game. My primary monitor is a Predator XB281HK using DP running in 4k and my second screen is one of those old small LG TV/DVD combos using HDMI running in 1080p. Both have the same scaling of 150% set. Has anyone else had similar issues or any ideas on how to get rid of this pest of a problem? Thanks! More system stats if anyone wants to know: Intel i7 8700K OC to 4.5 Ghz RTX 2080 (GIGABYTE OC verison) ROG Maximus X Hero motherboard 32Gb 3200 DDR4 RAM 1Tb Samsung evo m.2 drive couple 1Tb hdds

Hi everyone I don't understand why but my PC runs incredibly slowly with 8GB RAM. When I switch it to 6GbB (from 4x2 to 3x2) it works fine. I've tried different RAM configs (different slots, different brands, different speeds) but it makes no difference. This is really frustrating because I do want to be able to use at least 8GB. The board is Gigabyte P35 DS4 (lga 775) and should support 8gb of ddr2. I can't reflash the bios because the flash utility thinks I have the file on a floppy disk but the computer doesn't even have a floppy drive and i can't change it in the settings. Any help is appreciated. Thanks

I recently did a major upgrade on my PC, replacing almost every part including the motherboard. I previously had a PCIe wifi adapter on my old setup which I no longer need seeing as my motherboard has onboard wifi. I installed the board properly, applied the antenna, and got the PC to post. When I attempted to grab software for my fan controllers, I noticed I couldn't connect to the internet. I did some checking and noticed that there was no wifi network device in either the Network and Sharing menu nor the Device manager. Its like i dont even have onboard wifi. I checked around online to see if I could find the issue and came to the reasonable conclusion that for some strange reason, the device wasnt switched on by default. So I took the advice of others who have had this issue and went into the BIOS to see if I could find a switch for it there. Sadly, I coulnt find anything regarding a wifi switch. I dont think I even had a networking tab in the BIOS. So im wondering if im having a moment of sheer stupidity or if something is obscenely wrong with my onboard wifi. Please help! All ideas are welcome.

I have a gigabyte b450 mobo and i can’t get it to post. It turns on by itself out of the case then turns back off. If i remove the 8-pin connector on the mobo and flip the psu switch, it turns on and does absolutely nothing. The psu seems fine and all fans are spinning. I cannot spot the problem. Is the mobo dead?

Not sure what is causing it but on my right monitor when i minimize an application it runs the animation for maximizing an application, but when i restore the app it runs the minimize animation. I soft fixed it by going to display settings and switching primary monitor to my left then back to my right. You can see a video of what happens here. I have searched for this on google with many different wordings and have had no luck finding anyone else with these issues. Anybody have an idea whats happening? 828463375_footageofissue.mp4

I'm SO CONFUSED. So I had a soundbar at first at my desk. The sound was pretty good. I've only used it with an optical cable and I never had any issues. But, it was too big, and I wanted better stereo separation. So at first I bought an Edifier R1855DB set. Which, is sorta great, the speakers sound fantastic, but, since I got them, I had many, many audio crackles, all the time, both on optical and on RCA. I didn't really hear it much on music, but heard it a lot on talking (LTT) videos. To be sure, I tried everything on windows, re installing the Realtek Audio Driver, updating it, and after that didn't help, using windows recovery to go back to stock (because I like having loudness equalization and the newest Realtek driver doesn't support that). I also tried setting it to 44khz, 48khz, studio/cd/dvd quality. And of course I also tried disabling all windows enhancements, doesn't help either. And I ran latencymon, and it told me everything is perfect. So, I contacted edifier and they asked me for examples which I've sent (pasted below as well), and they're still looking into it. But I was so annoyed by the pops and crackles, I returned those speakers. I then bought a creative T100 set, I was pretty sure the Edifier set was the problem, because I've never had problems with the soundbar (which I have given away by now btw). Guess what. On the T100, the problem is exactly the same. I'm starting to think the new better speakers (both brands) are so good, they make me hear things windows causes, and the "bad" soundbar didn't let me hear those, or something like that? Is there anything I can do? PS on bluetooth I hear the problem a lot less, it's still there a bit, but not too much. The bluetooth delay on video however is not something I can live with. Edit: the problem maybe isn't there at all on bluetooth, I'm not too sure. It might be there a tiny bit, but at least it's a lot less. I really hope someone here can help me. I really don't want to buy the same crappy soundbar that I gave away, new, again. Examples:

Hi guys, I recently downloaded Mac's Fan Control onto my base model 14" macbook pro but I noticed that it is reporting 8 performance cores and 2 efficiency cores when it should only be reporting 6 performance cores. Can anyone help explain the discrepancy? It also reported 8 performance cores in menu bar stats 3.

I wanted to replace the fans on my 3060 (Gigabyte 3 fan card) since one of them died (it was making a ton of noise so idk if that counts), while doing that I decided to repaste it with K5 Pro that I saw in a LTT video (the thermal pads were falling off and the thermal paste on the gpu was a VERY thin layer). After the repaste and fan replacement I put the card in and it booted fine, however when under load the temps quickly jumped to 90 and the new fan wasn't spinning, so I took it out, put in another fan (that worked this time) and added more thermal paste to cover the VRMs. However, now it wont display anything. I plugged in an old card I have laying around and the computer wasn't even detecting the 3060 (the fans were spinning though). There is nothing covering the contacts that plug into the mobo and the only thing I can think that could have caused damage to the card during the repasted was I used the provided stick to push some thermal paste into an area where there was a gap on the VRMs near the display ports. I also know I added WAYYYYY too much thermal paste, I wasn't sure how much to add the second time because I was using the K5 to replace the thermal pads and wanted to make sure. I wiped away the excess that was oozing out. K5 is also not electrically conductive so I don't think there was a short, especially since it would have also shorted the first time. Drivers and everything is up to date, I honestly don't know what the cause could be. I might try wiping everything off and trying again, just in case something got in there that could be causing an issue.

i have a case and a IAO, i count 7 fans, there are 2 ways they can be chained 3 fans together, 4 separate(think this one). Or 2 times 3 fans together, 1 separate. i have only 2 A-RGB headers so i need a hub/controller/splitter. fans: 4x Aspect 14 RGB PWM, 3x Arctic P12 fans.(these are bundled) but i dont know what a good one is and what to get. can anyone help me find a piece of hardware?

I'm still really new to this whole thing and I'm trying to understand more. What is the difference between an Nvidia geforce rtx 2070 super vs. Zotac geforce rtx 2070 super. I thought when I was buying my graphics card I was getting the first option, but mine says "Zotac Gaming" in a couple different places and this confuses me. Is there really any difference in how well it performs, what are the real differences, ect... I'm just really confused at this point and would like some good info.

Ok so with the help of all recommendations from ltt discord server, i have finally made my final build list. please tell me if i have to make changes in it Also, the R7 2700 is cheaper than R5 3600 in my country, idk why but good for me. The ram kit is the cheapest 8*2 1gb 3200mhz kit available in my country. I am confused with the motherboard selection though, people say B450 steel legend is not good, it might be true but its the cheapest white accent motherboard i could find. Please suggest a better motherboard ONLY if it performs better. Also please tell me if the MSI MAG24C is good or is there a better monitor in that price segment. P.S I want a white build cuz ASTHETICS and my country is INDIA https://www.amazon.in/hz/wishlist/ls/2ZPURQ1WZZSZY?ref_=wl_share

So yeah... after about 8 months of using this setup without any issues my second monitor stopped recieving signal from the pc and now just shows up as not active in display setting. Setup: Rtx 2060 that outputs to one 144hz main display through Display-port aswell as outputting to a second display using HDMI. (both from the same card not from mobo and gpu) Second monitor turns on and works but isnt recieving signal from the pc, if i switch the hdmi to my main monitor it works fine and detects as usual. Im kind of confused and i've tried the usuals: driver updates both monitors and gpu aswell as switching cables around etc. This all happened after the pc had been turned of for more than 24h, win update might have had something to do with this but i am unsure. any ideas are welome since im just confused rn xd. Tried using google but to no avail. Fix, revert to previous windows version and it fixed itself... microsoft has done it again...

Budget (including currency): 200 Dollars Country: US Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: GTA,Paladins,CS:GO, a bit of photoshop super rarely, Fortnite, PUBG, Battlefield V, some other lite games Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): So, I have been looking for a new graphics card in a very right budget and I saw that the RX 5500 XT from MSI was $190 at best buy and i wanted to know if the card was good and what does it compare to I see some reviews say different things about it so i decided to come here to check if it was a good deal and also if there are better options and if the drivers for it are fixed. By the way this is the 8 Gb model.

hi guys, I am building my first gaming pc, getting the gtx 1660 super or ti my question is that I found a lot of types of the same graphics card for a huge difference in money I found Asus tut gtx 1660 super Asus dual gtx 1660 ti evo 6gb for even cheaper then rtx 2060 Asus tuf for even cheaper than that so Is the tuf type bad or are all the gtx 1660's the same or what's going on