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I watched this video by Der8auer a while ago and am fascinated with the idea of using this chemical nickel-plating technique on my laptops heat spreaders and finally be able to use liquid metal paste on them. I also watched his subsequent video, showing his results three months afterwards, and am convinced that, maybe, you need a much thicker nickel-plate to make sure it works properly. So I want to ask if anybody's ever tried it and if they can offer any advice. Thanks.
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Please share your liquid metal success (or horror) stories
Guest posted a topic in Custom Loop and Exotic Cooling
Got some Conductonaut incoming. The plan is to use it on CPU and GPU in the hope of lowering temps by a few degrees each. Both have Copper heat plates so corrosion shouldn't be an immediate concern. Ryzen 2600X with a CM LiquidLite AIO. Sapphire Pulse OC RX 5700XT stock cooler. 1- Have any of you used TG Conductonaut on either of the 2 above components? 2- Do you have any general success or horror stories to share about using liquid metal? Thanks- 13 replies
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Hey guys, I'm planning to repaste my laptop with a liquid metal (Conductonaut) today or tomorrow, but first of all I would like to ask some questions: 1. Do I need to spread the LM completely to the edges, or is it enough for it to be spread like 1mm from the edge of the die? Because I think that having a little gap there could drastically reduce the chance of spilling, but maybe it would reduce the cooling effectiveness, I don't know. 2. Transistor protection - I unfortunately don't have a clear nail polish and can't buy one because of lockdown. I have an electrical tape, but I heard that it can melt and stuff, which is obviously bad (even though I saw a video of a guy that used it for like year and it was perfectly fine). Wouldn't normal non-conductive thermal paste (MX-4) applied to the or near the transistors work well as a protection/wall in case of spilling? My another idea was to put a tiny teeny strip of a 0.5mm thermal pad in between the transistors and the die acting as a wall. It would probably fit there but I'm not sure how well it'd do the job. Thanks for your help
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I am not an expert on thermal paste but I have trouble believing that. Some time I watched a video from LTT last year: Delidding an Intel Core i7 6700K - Is it worth it!? and it seemed to make sense, or, at least, something one could expect. Today, I came across an article from Tom,s Hardware "De-Lidding and Overclocking Core i7-7700K with Water and LN2", from March 20, 2017 and they say, 22 degrees temperature drop by just changing a thermal paste? No way! I don't count on people at Intel being idiots or a "miracle" thermal paste. So, what am I missing, or what were they thinking?
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I need advice on whether applying Grizzly Conductonaut on my EKFC 1080 Waterblock would be a good idea. Ive settled on using it for my cpu, so i figured why not do it for my gpu's too. The only thing im concerned of is the possibility of seepage, or the liquid metal running once it applied. You see my case is a Thermaltake Core X9 which means the motherboard is mounted horizontally. Whilst this is great for applying TIM to my cpu heatspreader, it means the gpu when mounted are facing vertically instead of horizontally as they would normally do. . Is there a possibility that gravity could pull the Liquid metal downwards, away from the die and onto the capacitors? . Is it worth applying and leaving some high heat resistant electrical tape over the capacitors when applying the conductonaut and mounting the block to ensure there wont be any damage caused? Ive sources this tape off ebay but im concerned it might not be appropriate as its a bit cheap and supposdely has a "polyimide coating" which i have no idea if it is conductive or not. If anyone can post a link of a more suitable heat resistant tape I'd appreciate it. So thats about it really. If you have any thoughts please let me know as im having trouble deciding. Im going balls deep on this build so no idea is to extreme, except phase cooling, because fuck that.
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Let me tell you a little story about how I was a genius making awesome cooling in a tight space. So if you haven't seen my build, check it out ----> Basically, I decided to upgrade from air cooling to an AIO for my i7 4770k, in a retro IBM case. In order to fit the 120mm radiator of the Fractal Design Kelvin T12 AIO I needed to remove the stock blower fan cooling the GTX 970. Lucky for me the EK Waterblock for GTX970 was recently discontinued, so old stock was going out cheap, I mean $30 cheap. I grabbed it! Yeah! So now the GTX970 and 4770k are water cooled by a FD Kelvin T12, and under full load sit around 63-65 degrees celcius max. Awesome! Oh noes! A wild problem appears! After about a month of gaming and occasional mining suddenly the graphics card starts going whack-job and the display goes funny if not completely blank. I'm freaking out, did I damage the card on the install? I'm freaking out, my graphics card is dying... Then I thought, hey maybe it's the gallium Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut liquid metal I so ingeniously used as a thermal interface material for the GTX970 water block. I frantically take out the card, unscrew the water block and BAM! Yep, nice shiny balls of gallium scattered all over. So, turns out nickel plated water blocks are really hard for gallium to stick to. It just tends to float around onto, even after scuffing the surface of the contact point. I cleaned up the card with a spray electrical contact and parts cleaner, a clean rag and patience, and did the same for the water block. I then used EK's thermal paste and reinstalled the water block. Fingers crossed, reinstalled the card, booted the system and walah! It works! So far, so good. Moral of the story, if you can't get a good, sticky contact of liquid metal, and there's a chance it will get into very nearby contacts, use something else or take better precautions than I did. I'm a very lucky camper.
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Im rebuilding my GTX 1080 with the stock cooler the to test it and possibly send it off for repairs. I have Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut preapplied to the gpu die but need to know if the GTX 1080 Heatsink is made of Aluminium or is nickel coated copper? The reason being Conductonaut is Gallium based which eats through aluminium so you know, its kind of important to know before sticking the two together.
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So the obsession continues, I swapped tim on r9 390 TRI-X and got it to 1175mhz and 1400 on memory (in wattman) without breaking 58c. Like an hour ago did it to my girls rx480 card and pretty nice results, before I couldn't even bump core 2% stable. This time I got it to 1450mhz without really going above 50c under load with custom fan curve. The peak temp your seeing is because the fan doesn't kick on for like the first 10 seconds of unigine, but once fans kick on it pulls temps back down. I'll fill out this thread more later when I get some time to really try and push it.
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This isn't going to be much of a post, I'm still working on the PC. But I had to report my early results from delidding. At 1.5v 5ghz it will not break 58c on hottest core, and it immediately drops back to around 55c under 100% load. Right now its at 1.38v and doesn't break 48c on hottest core. I will upload some pictures and stuff later, but to all you other delidders out there take your time and do it right with the best stuff, and don't put ANY adhesive under IHS. And youll get 30+c drops like this consistently, I've done it on 3570k and now a 6700k. I will be doing another 6700k soon so I will have another thread about that when I'm done. Asus z170-a I7 6700k Noctua d15 UPDATE: Added some pictures of temps while installing some games and then a stress test + installing games in background. I get the time of stress test isn't long, but believe it or not temps weren't increasing with time. I'll upload more pics later. UPDATE: Got a core 0 error around 11 minutes, so I boosted LLC to level 4 which gave me a small voltage bump under load, and temps are still beautiful AF if you don't mind my saying so... See new pics for detailed info from 1 hour stress test.
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I own a Zotac GTX 1080 Ti Amp Extreme, and after getting my CPU de-lidded I was always tempted to see if I could get the same result on my Graphics Card. It did get hot, if the power limit was not lowered, it would get up to 80C. After putting the Power Limit to 85%, I would get reasonable temps. I finally decided to do it replace the old thermal paste with liquid metal (conductonaut). I ran a stress test before hand and made sure all the setting were fair: 70% fan speed. 1950rpm. Kraken x61 intake fans set to 30%. Used the same settings on Unigine Valley and paused it at the same scene. For the first test I maxed out (after around 20 minutes) at 75C. So then I took off the cooler, removed the dry and hardened thermal paste, and reapplied with liquid metal. I watched many videos and made sure I did it the best I could. Afterwards, I set up the stress test, put the monitoring tools in place and waited. I was shocked with the result, after 20 minutes the max temp levelled off at 65C, this is a 10C improvement. This is much bigger than some of the Youtuber's results. To conclude, for me this procedure was definitely worth it and now I don't have to lower the power and can even overclock some more and will get more than reasonable temperatures. So if you plan to do this yourself, please make sure you do it properly and I hope you get the same results I got. This is amazing if you are unhappy with your temperatures like I was. If anyone else decides to do this or has done it, I would love to hear your results!
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Yo! I have applied LM on my new XPS due to high thermal throttling and it helped a lot however I am shitting my pants to get this thing off my desk. Did anyone have any LM seeping out of their GPU / CPU into a mobo in a laptop due to mobility of the device? I have used conformal coating (FSC15ML) on CPU and GPU as well as Super 33+ Scotch vinyl electrical tape (rated up to 110'C)/ Also it is worth mentioning that I have applied very very very thin layer (I could even read NVIDIA whilst it was covered in LM) however that doesn't convince me to use my laptop as a laptop. Also I have under-clocked CPU by -100mV so that's also a major factor I think having LM on XPS with 1650 is worth risk only if application is the biggest problem because by the end of the day it has to be used as a laptop. Let me know what you think about thickness of the layers Here are some results: IDLE temps: Apex - ultra - closed building for 3 mins - 62fps No throttling at all And here is 3D Mark: (3 752 score) https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/40005685 as well as HWBoot: (2102 marks) https://hwbot.org/xtu/share/1140764?clientVersion=6.5.1.355 Let me know your thoughts
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basically my laptop's CPU temps had a ~20 degree spread with the liquid metal that it came with (it was applied by the previous owner, but the laptop did actually have an option for it from factory). So I assumed maybe he didn't do the best job applying it or it spread and wasn't properly covering all of the die, I opened it up and noticed that it looked like some of the die wasn't completely covered so I wiped off the liquid metal and applied normal paste (NT-H1, I don't have any liquid metal on hand), that did 'improve' the core to core deltas, now it's only about 10 degree but it's also 85-95 vs 75-95 so it really didn't make a difference. what's weird is in Dave Lee's review of this exact laptop (expect it's an 8750h instead of a 9750h) the temps are amazing (like combined GPU and CPU maxes out at below 70c) where as my CPU reaches 95c without the GPU being loaded, would it be worth a try to buy some liquid metal and try and do a better job applying it or what? I'm kind of lost. This is a run I just did: (yes I see the weird dip in FPS on GT1, blaming Shadowplay. Didn't bother to re-run the test because score/GT1/GT2 don't really matter for what I am trying to talk about) Screenshot from Dave Lee's review: (He ran the Demo, I didn't) but even during the physics test his CPU and GPU was around 60-65c with basically the same clock speeds on the CPUs, I just don't know what to do to try and fix this. I hope I can get the CPU to actually reach max turbo under load instead of maxing out at like 3.6GHz under a load like Cinebench, any ideas?
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Hi. I want to apply the conductonaut LM to my laptop CPU and GPU. I am curious of how thermal pad can be used to protect from LM leakage instead of electrical tape. Futhermore, electrical tape tends to insulate heat. So, will thermal pad do any different? Can I even do that? Sorry if it doesnt make sense. Thanks in advance.
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So... I've been lucky enough to never order a DOA gpu, until today? Originally, I ordered the EVGA 1080ti SC black edition, pulled heatsink off, replaced thermal paste with conductonaut, threw it back together and installed. Runs great, caps at ~60c at 2100mhz with ~55% fan speed. However, literally 2 days after I purchased above Amazon listed the FTW3 back in stock and it was only $760 ($10 more than I paid for SC black), so I had to order that and return SC black (somewhere in the wild there will soon be a nice "modded" sc black). So I get the FTW3 in, marvel at its giant cooler compared to SC, and proceed to pull heatsink off and replace stock thermal paste with conductonaut as I do to every single cpu and gpu I touch, not a single one broken to date. I've refined my method to be practically fool proof, I use hydronaut (pcb safe, non capacitive, non conductive thermal paste) to cover all of the nearby electronics. I also replaced stock thermal pads on VRAM with Arctic thermal pads (non capacitive, non conductive and much higher performance than stock). The only part of teardown I had "trouble" with was the fan connectors, they were extremely stubborn, on a couple I pulled the entire plug off the board just leaving the 4 prongs, but slid back on easily enough and yes all of the fans worked fine when done. Results: So at this point I pull SC black out and replace her with FTW3, and yes, separate 8 pin PCIE power for each plug coming from an EVGA supernova P2 850w power supply. Boots up fine, proceed to install drivers (previously cleaned with DDU), driver install goes fine, I run precision X OC, it updates fan firmware fine. Proceed to launch Assasins Creed Origins, hangs up practically immediately when game starts despite temps still being below 50c across the board. Fired up shadow of war, ran for about 10 seconds then some multicolored spots started popping up everywhere, almost looked like fire works, then it hangs up as well. I was able to force the programs closed and computer was still working. So I proceed to the basics, pull gpu, reseat ram, reseat gpu, reseat power to gpu. Download furmark, ran on lowest intensity possible, no crashing but artifacts like crazy. Step up to 1080p benchmarks, hangs up after about 10 seconds. So then I reinstalled drivers, still same problems.... So I keep running fur mark trying to notice at what point it crashes, but unfortunately I didn't get much further. PC blue screened with internal video schedule error, booted back up but was driverless. Tried to reinstall drivers but resulted in black screen that I couldn't remedy. Reboot PC VGA led on, reboot again get into windows (still driverless) but black screen after trying to install drivers. Never smelled anything burning, but at this point I'm thinking WOW, I broke my 1080ti like an idiot, I must have seated the card poorly and either peeled off thermal pads or somehow got liquid metal to short something out despite covering nearby electronics with hydronaut. So today I pulled the card back apart to see that everything was perfect, liquid metal sitting squarely on gpu die with no run off, and thermal pads seated properly.... I can obviously get Amazon to send me a replacement, but I'm curious if anyone has run into these kind of symptoms and if they ever found the root of the problem, kills me I took the time to do all of this for nothing, but in the future I will definitely test cards before pulling cooler off. Thanks for any input. Edit: Forgot to add that the S/N sticker you can see through box has some lines going through it, almost like a couple of X's, I'll try and get a pic but I boxed it up wrong when I get home I can snap one.
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Hello everyone, I know the 6700K is no longer a new CPU, but for those interested in delidding their i7-6700K or would like pictures for reference, I figured I'd post my results. Pre-warning... I use 'Conductonaut' and 'Liquid Metal' interchangeably in this thread. To start off with, I used: * Rockit 88 Delid/Relid Tool (For delidding and relidding) * Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut (For between CPU die and IHS) * Permatex Ultra Black RTV Silicone Gasket Maker (For resealing IHS to CPU PCB) * Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut (For between IHS and HSF) Some relevant system information: * 6700K at 4.4GHz (1.305V) * G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series DDR4 3000 (F4-3000C15D-16GVR) at XMP (3000MHz (1.35V)) * Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO w/ additional fan (Cooler Master SickleFlow 120 (Same fan that comes with HSF)) in push/pull configuration This was my first delid and first time playing with Liquid Metal of any brand. I actually never installed the CPU after the first application of Conductonaut because I was paranoid that I used too little / too much or if the area of the inside of the IHS I applied Conductonaut to was near the pins to the upper-right of the die. This is why you see some discoloration on the inside of the IHS (cleaned up the existing Conductonaut the best I could with isopropyl alcohol but Liquid Metal doesn't seem to clean up easy off the IHS. This was also my first time using anything but the pea method for applying thermal grease between the IHS and HSF. I opted for the spread method of the Kryonaut instead of the X (both methods are approved by Thermal Grizzly)... what a PITA. Pictures of the prepped CPU die: Pictures of the prepped IHS (inside) before applying RTV silicone: Pictures of the prepped IHS (outside): Comparison of before (left - after a 24-hour stress-test to validate my OC) and after (right - after a 30-minute stress-test): To summarize the above picture (my results seem to fall in line with what most experience (-15 to -20)... so I have no complaints): CPU: -18 Core #1: -21 Core #2: -19 Core #3: -20 Core #4: -17 The ONLY question I have is... HOW imperative is it that water doesn't touch the Liquid Metal? While applying RTV silicone to the IHS for resealing to the CPU PCB, I accidentally dropped it in the sink. It fell on the top of it first, bounced, and landed inside facing down where the sink contours. SOME water touched the outside edge and even less touched the Conductonaut . I used a napkin to dry the water off the outside edge and dabbed the moisture off the liquid metal where it made contact. I then took the q-tip that had some Conductonaut still on it and quickly went over the area I had applied Conductonaut so that it was even. All visible moisture was removed and the remaining Conductonaut had the same consistency it had before dropping the IHS. However, I read that gallium can oxidize when introduced to moisture (albeit it takes a long time). I'm 99% sure there was no moisture leftover, but my curiosity is getting the best of me.
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Liquid metal cooling laptop in vertical stand
Lloyd posted a topic in CPUs, Motherboards, and Memory
I have a Dell XPS 15 9550, with an i7-6700HQ & an GTX960M. I'm trying do some gaming (PUBG, Battlefront 2, etc.) and just generally squeeze some more life out of it, however, even after undervolting the CPU by 140mW, repasting the CPU/GPU and running the games at their lowest settings I still get temps of over 85°C on the GPU under full load, causing both the CPU & GPU to eventually downclock. In addition, I typically use the laptop closed in a vertical stand, connected to a Dell TB16. I have tried leaving the laptop open during gaming, however this doesn't seem to affect operating temps much, if at all! Assuming I take the proper precautions (i.e liberal application of conformal coating), would the closed/standing/upright position cause any issues with the liquid metal compound? Is there the potential for it to leak out from between the die and copper plate? I apologise if that sounds like a stupid question. Also, I've noticed that the two screw threads connecting the heat sink to the GPU side of the motherboard have broken, so I don't feel there is sufficient contact/pressure between the GPU die and the copper plate. Would this be contributing to the high temps and could it potentially cause problems with the liquid metal compound? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks ?- 7 replies
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Hey all. I just bought a new laptop and apparently it benefits from LM TIM replacement. In order to make sure I didn't kill my new computer, I tested the process on my old Lenovo T430. I applied conformal coating to the aluminum surrounding the copper on the heatsink I applied conformal coating to the CPU and GPU processors around the die. I applied just enough Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut to make the dies shiny and metallic. The results are included in the pictures. Can anyone better explain why the temperatures don't reflect what others have seen (10-20 degree drop). I think the cooling solution may be bottle-necking my results, but I wanted to see if anyone had any other ideas. With results like this, I don't really want to open my new laptop up. Pre-LM Idle Pre-LM Load Post-LM Idle Post-LM Load Post-LM/Post-Stress Test Idle
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I own a Cooler Master 212 EVO and am looking into using liquid metal for that sweet thermal conductivity. I'm doing research into this and it seems that liquid metal can do a lot of damage to your cooler. I would like to get some thermal grizzly conductonaut. Would this be safe for my cooler or will i see damage within a few weeks? Also is there any safer LM alternatives that still provide high performance with no chance to degrade either my cooler or CPU?
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It's a toasty card and the temps could do with coming down. Was wondering if anyone has put liquid metal on a Vega 56 or similar? Might try it if I heard some success stories and not if i heard words of warning or if it changed nothing heatwise.
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Is this in the right section? I am building my first watercooled system and currently ordering some parts. I will be using a preownd 290x and will probably change the thermal paste as it is quite old now and could also use LM on top of the heatspreader of my 3570k but i am wondering if that is worth it. The EK Supremacy evo is nickel plated copper so it should be fine. Idk exactly what the Ek block on the 290x is made of but I highly suspect the same or bare copper. I still have some Arctic MX4 lying around and conductonaut is only 10 bucks but do wonder if this helps as much with watercooling as with air cooling (yes I know that i should be really freaking carefully when applying it to a GPU)
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Just recieved my 1g supply of Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut, and... it looks weird? Is it just me, or does the liquid metal not look very paste-like? Is this an issue? It honestly looks like pure gallium or mercury or something. Mine: https://imgur.com/a/jdFEiKF Comparison: https://imgur.com/a/aPz9AMu
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Hi I wanted to share my experience with conductonaut. For delidding my 8700k I used a 3dprinted tool : delidder.turbo 2 from thingiverse Before Delidding, mark the position of the heatspreader with a permanent marker. It uses quite a lot of force for delidding, but it worked without damage, try on other cheap cpu's if you have'em laying around. Try to memorize, or somehow scratch a slight mark where the die was positioned on the Heatspreader. The cleaning process was straight forward, use some rubbing alcohol, Roboto (in europe), to clean everything. I used a fine sanding pad (Scotch Brite 96 15,2 x 22,9 cm Medium Pad) to sand the underside of the Heat spreader, just a bit to make conductonaut stick better, then cleaned everyting again. Now if your CPU has resistors and capacitors around the die, I used some clear varnish/paint for cars, I got a small Clear Coat Touch Up Paint with Brush kit and painted the blank pins on top of the 8700k. For the application of the conductonaut I first pressed out a little bubble on a sheet of paper to get a feeling for it, then i put that bubble on the die. You have to use the absolute minimum to get a filling silver coat, no puddles!!! If there is a little puddle you can suck it up with the conductonaut seringe. On the Heatspreader: also put a minimum on there, and "paint" the conductonaut within the markings you've made earlier. Now it's time for relidding, I used something like "Permatex 82180 Ultra Black Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker" and just used 4 drops on every corner of the Heatspreader. Than put everything in the delidder/rlidder tool and pressed it together. After 30 min, I put everything back on the Motherboard. Since my AIO has a copper plate, I also used conductonaut on there, always apply on both sides, and always sand the contact areas a bit (exept the die!!!) After the modification, my CPU had a drop of 15° with the same settings, in prime95. It runs a lot more silent now. Because this went so awsomly well I also used it on my Laptop (Lenovo Y50-70), which resulted in much cooler -10° temperatures, and autoclocks higher. On the PS4 pro (it has a copper coolerplate YAY!) which went from dyson like in horizon zero dawn, to very modest Fan noises. On my Good old PS3 Phat between the Cpu/Gpu's and heatspreades (what a pain to get those of...) which went from very loud in GTAV to nearly silent (unbelieveable), Here you can't use The conductonaut to the cooler, because contact plate is made out of aluminium. For those three the clear coat paint on the compnents around the dies is a must. I hope I could summarize the whole process for some people, if there are questions, just ask, and post your experiences too if you like
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Hey Guys, Next Month im going to build my first custom pc and I'm asking myself if I should take the risk and use thermal grizzly conductonaut. Where can it spill that would cause irreparable damage. The Pc is going to be pretty expensive ~1600€ so is it worth to take the risks and especcialy where are the risks. Thanks
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Hello Just wanted to drop a few lines here to mention that I have successfully delided my Intel 4790K using Rockit88 delid tool, bought from Amazon.Used my nails and some icecream wood sticks to get rid of all the black rubber sealant.After the PCB, DIE, and IHS were clean, I put a thermal tape over the line of SMD's and after that applied Conductonaut on the surface of the DIE.Remade seal between the IHS and the PCB using black silicone gasket maker and put the entire assembly back together using the Rockit 88 press.Left it for ~8H and put it back on the mobo using Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut.The cooler used is a Corsair H80i GT.In Prime 95 latest version - Small FFT, before I had ~102 Celsius.Now I have 80 Celsius.I have gained somewhere between 15 to 20 degrees. Is it worth the risk? If you have time to do it then YES! I was also afraid that I might have a fancy keychain but with the tool you feel so safe doing it.If you will do this, don't bother using anything else than Conductonaut as it will not work.Normal paste will pump out and all the oil from the thermal paste will get out of it. This is the tools used https://rockitcool.myshopify.com/ I also used this http://www.soudal.com/aerosols/Aerosols_Sealantremover_EN.html before I scraped the original sealant off. I live in Romania so I had to pay customs, VAT but it was worth it. Regards, Flaviu
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PCH cooling 1.) PCH - Conductonaut - Copper 1.5mm 2.) PCH - Conductonaut - Copper 1.5mm - Fujipoly pads on top (mm?) 3.) PCH - Fujipoly (mm?) - Aluminium Hs 4mm 4.) PCH - Fujipoly (mm?) - Copper 1.5mm 5.) PCH - Kyronaut - Aluminium Hs 4mm Should you apply thermal paste to brand new thermal pads? I'm following Iunlock's and Alex's guides. Any advice would be really appreciated