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ST2000DM008 Seagate Barracuda ST2000DM008 2 TB 3.5" Seagate 2TB Loud click every reboot or/ 1-2 every hour I am not sure how to approach this issue should i open it or try to scan it ? I deleted MFT with ccleaner and seems a bit better now. What else should i try / do ?

Right so, I built my pc nearly 2 weeks ago and it's been working fine up until now. Didn't need to update bios or anything like that, and I didn't mess with any bios settings. So last night I accidentally plugged my rgb cable into a fan cable and turned on the power supply and computer which resulted in the lights permanently being blue on the strip, pc still worked fine. So then i tried to fix it last night, I kept turning the power supply of and on to change the cable between both rgb headers as they gave different results. Ultimately, I decided to leave the cable unplugged from the motherboard, but the strip was still on and working. Came home today and turned on my pc and then turned it off by shutting it down. Then I decided to tinker with it and plugged the rgb cable back in to the correct place and I think I did this while my power supply was left on, though the pc was shut down. Went to turn it back on and the only thing to happen was the light on my 3070 came on for a milesecond before going off. No fans spun, no rgb from the fans or strip and it didn't turn on, though my keyboard remained lit up. After about 5 seconds the power supply clicked once. I have checked everything and nothing looks burnt or damaged in anyway. The motherboard is still receiving power as my keyboard is still lit up when of or on and the case power button still functions. I tried taking out and putting back in every component and cables multiple times, tried it without the gpu, tried different ram configurations and still the same result. All the psu cables that I am using came with the power supply and the system has been running with no issues for 2 weeks before this. I think I may of shorted the motherboard because the power supply was till on and because i wasnt grounded? I don't know exactly. Any help Is greatly appreciated as I've posted this on 2 sub reddits before this and no responses yet. System Ryzen 7 5700x Asus rog strix b550 A Asus dual 3070 Corsair rm850 80plus gold Corsair vengeance 32gb 3600mhz Thermalrite dual fan cooler (cant remember the specific name, but its an air cooler) WD Black 1tb m.2

Hello, are these sounds normal for a new drive? This noise is happening when I write... Sounds at --> 00:02, 00:07 and 00:12 (phone was pretty close and handles the sound more loudly than it actually is - depending on your volume) As you can see it is a Seagate IronWolf PRO 10TB 3,5" drive. I didn't use 3,5" disk in years, so I am concern about any noise it makes. Thank you EDIT: Found these videos (are they relevant to my issue?): https://youtu.be/fsod-SeEKq0?t=601 https://youtu.be/Uq4BOGMzy2Y?t=33

Okay just a bit of a backdrop. TLDR - old cheapo computer, too young when brought to think of modifying , used for basic power point and word. no internet usage. Now with about 2 drives it was fine until we got internet in '17 and I subbed to ltt in '19. Guy gave me everything I know about PCMR. I finally allocated all the storage. Then switched to win 10. Then gave a finger to the gate and opened it for puppy. all fine till then. TLDR - 2 drives, 1tb and 2 tb. the OS was running on 1 tb. I started have a fetish of uniformity. I wanted videos (movies and shows ) to be in the videos folder. music tracks to be in the music folder. Obviously it wont be possible with the OS on 1tb drive so I got puppy on the 2tb drive (pop-OS) and kept the OS on the 1 tb as it is. Then one day, I basically crashed all of myself onto the pc. It's on the floor and I tripped. Thought of it to be nothing. a week passed by and I heard clicks from the PC. goosebumps flew over me. Immediately opened the PC, kept it on the desk and to my expected horror the click sounded to come from the 2tb hdd. I made the best out of any data I could salvage and got a ssd. transferred it to be the only OS drive and copied the data on the 2tb drive onto a new 4 tb drive. one thing that happened with the 2 tb drive was that I was not able to log onto it as the OS redirected me to the ubuntu box something. I remember going onto google and some forum post said it was because the OS was tampered with. reckoned it was cause of the tripping so I copied all the data back. funnily I was able to copy it with no problems, like no pop-ups and shit. I could completely access every movie file I had(from another drive with linux file system) (I should have known at the time. ) After I made sure all files had been copied, I tried to play with it and funnily I was able to login a few times, and after some time, it would redirect me back. Some magic I thought. I avoided storing files on that drive mostly with it having only a few movies I was willing to lose. a month later, or two months from today, to my surprise the drive failed. But wait!, not the 2 tb, rather the 1 tb. It made some beep sound when sata power plugged in and showed only 4 gigs of capacity. Classic hdd failure. luckily I copied all the data wayy before this onto the new 4tb cause I thought well, why not. I realized the 2 tb never " failed " rather it was the OS which failed. This happened a hella lotta times with puppy and shows how with the perfect situation, anything can fool anyone. But what STILL goes past me is how I was still able to log into the 1 tb drive a month later even though it " failed " ? And I guarantee it couldn't have failed when I tripped because when i heard clicks, only two drives were present and the 2 tb drive still works today perfectly as a plex media house kinda. The Takeaway from this is that either the 1 tb hdd failed and came after life for me to copy data. the 2 tb died when I heard clicks and the 1 tb failed later. And that the 2 tb drive STILL is in its afterlife trying to stay alive. but I just wanna know how a drive could still work after it clicked, failed an Os simultaneously and works at a better speed than before.

Hello! So, back in 2019 I had some issues with my old PSU, so I bought a new one of the model: be quiet! Pure Power 11 600W CM. It's been working great, but lately I've started hearing this weird ticking/clicking noise from the computer. I went through all the fans (except the PSU), holding my finger against them to ensure that they were not the culprit. And when trying to localize the sound, I think it's most reasonable that the sound is coming from the PSU. So, here is a video of the sound (I also attached the video to this post to make sure that at least one mirror works) video-1647436132.mp4 So, the noise isn't constantly going on, it's like once every 20 seconds, and it goes on for about 5 seconds. To my untrained ear, it sounds like something is shaking/wobbling, but I'm not sure. What can I do? I've heard that you shouldn't really open PSUs unless you know what you're doing. All the best, Hugorm video-1647436132.mp4

I have no clue on how and why, but at seemingly random times almost all apps don't register clicks anymore. The settings application responds to hovers, but not to clicks. Any application opened does not respond to clicks. The task bar works normally. I have no clue on where do I begin troubleshooting. I can use the keyboard just fine. Please, I need help. The problem persists after restating.

When any of my blue switch keys start having key chatter, I apply a few drops of isopropyl alcohol and then press and blow into the switches. This usually removes the key chatter. For example, today I had key chatter on my W key so I did the usual steps and it got fixed, however, a few hours later my D key started having key chatter so I did the usual steps to remove key chatter and it got removed but after about 30 mins, the D key lost its click. I tried the usual key chatter removal steps again and the isopropyl alcohol temporarily restored its click but then the click got lost again after about 20 mins. What happened? And what can I do to restore the blue switch click without desoldering? 20221026_190134_1.mp4

Hi,So I have problem with my right click. First of all i thought my mouse is not good and its problem.But how i saw its windows problem or idk. So my all on my mouse work properly,only right click is like it works,but i click right click myb 3 times and 4th time it just dont do anything.I noticed that in gaming,while i was in lol,i need to move by right click.And there is noticed it isnt right,Then on desktop when want to right click to menu pop up,it wont open some times,also for task managar trough taskbar.

I am wanting to drag click on my mouse (g600) and i am wondering whether it is even possible, or if i should just give u.

Hello all, I am not ammused to be posting a rather odd question such as this one, but it has been intreging me for more than a year now. When ever i turn my PC on it gives off a satisfying "CLICK" sound a few seconds after boot (~15) once it around the windows logon screen... I have had this computer for about a year now and has done the sound out of the case or in the case. Specs are PCPartPicker part list: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/CxzzCy Price breakdown by merchant: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/CxzzCy/by_merchant/ CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($305.95 @ Vuugo) CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i GTX 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VIII GENE Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($280.98 @ DirectCanada) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($129.98 @ DirectCanada) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($114.98 @ DirectCanada) Video Card: Asus Radeon R9 270 2GB DirectCU II Video Card Case: BitFenix Prodigy M Arctic White MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($93.42 @ DirectCanada) Power Supply: Corsair RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($134.99 @ Memory Express) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($118.98 @ DirectCanada) Total: $1179.28 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-31 10:45 EST-0500 Let me know what you guys think of this.

Hi, i recently bought a Acer T232HL its a 23" touch screen monitor. I have a multi-monitor setup 3 in total 1 144hz g-sync 28" main display, a top mounted vizio 32" and a left arm mounted Touchscreen the Acer T232HL. I have gone into touch settings and setup the touchscreen monitor with no problem, but my issue is that when i touch the monitor it moves the cursor off my main display the gaming one, which has me currently dragging my mouse around. I would love a fix for this as this is apart my current setup. I hope to be able to play a game in the center and play say hearthstone or another touch game on the left side with out interupting my flow on the current display. All help will be greatly greatly appreciated and goggle searches failed. TL;DR my touch monitor Acer T232HL is stealing my cursor from main display while not gaming and gaming, causing me to move my mouse cursor back to continue working. I have gone in touchpad settings and did the hit enter till touch screen setup. also tried updating, uninstalling driver.

So basically what i want to do is, when i click a div, i want another div to show up. Practically it's a Static image of an email icon that moves along with the webpage, when i click that i want a div containing an "Email me" form that i've centered to be visible. Problem : How do i make a div interactable/clickable without using the <a> tag, the <a> tag requires a href and i do not want to navigate to another html file or external website. I've tried using #EmailQuickAccess:active #emailpopup { visibility: visible; } and it doesn't work. Edit: if you're wondering why there's 2 pictures #EmailIcon and #EmailIcon2, when i hover over it it changes , thats all it does. HTML: <body> <div id="emailpopup"></div> <div id="EmailQuickAccess"> <img id="EmailIcon" src="Ikoner/Email.png" alt="HTML5 Icon"> <img id="EmailIcon2" src="Ikoner/Email Hover.png" alt="HTML5 Icon"> </div> <body> CSS: #EmailIcon { position: fixed; top: 70%; width: 9%; height: auto; left: 5.5%; z-index: 100; } #EmailIcon2 { position: fixed; top: 70%; width: 9%; height: auto; left: 5.5%; z-index: 99; display: none; } #EmailQuickAccess:hover #EmailIcon { display:none; } #EmailQuickAccess:hover #EmailIcon2 { display:block; } #EmailQuickAccess:active #emailpopup { visibility: visible;} #emailpopup { position: fixed; visibility: hidden; background: #989898; width: 40%; height: 500px; top: 15%; left: 30%; z-index: 200; }

I cannot double click, and in a browser if I left click it takes me back to the previous page. However I can play games with no issues. How do I fix this?

Some strange thing is happening to my laptop. When i start my laptop and wait for steam to update, the screen suddenly flick to blank white for a couple of seconds, then i can't click in the desktop. In order to click on the desktop, i need to restart my pc. All the mouse is working fine. The only thing i could click is the bar thing when you press that windows button. Any clue about what's happening? And some solution? This has happened a few months ago, its gone for a while and now it's back. Thanks

Some strange thing is happening to my laptop. When i start my laptop and wait for steam to update, the screen suddenly flick to blank white for a couple of seconds, then i can't click in the desktop. In order to click on the desktop, i need to restart my pc. All the mouse is working fine. The only thing i could click is the bar thing when you press that windows button. Any clue about what's happening? And some solution? This has happened a few months ago, its gone for a while and now it's back. Thanks

Hello everyone, my dad and I were theorizing about random topics and we came up with an idea for bots that exist on a computer solely for the purpose of generating views for a website and to click on ads on said website. They would have to lightweight enough to run multiple instances (500 or more) on the same computer, in addition I think they would need their own external IP addresses (possibly running through TOR). The idea is to have these bots click on ads on the page and generate revenue for the clicks on the ads (is that how this works?). Is this even possible? Is it even legal? I appreciate any input on this topic as I think its a great idea, but am confused as to how exactly it would work. Thanks, -MadRussian42

Today while I was using my Stealth it made a clicking sound and just shutdown. After that my Stealth won't boot. I have and SSD not a Hard Drive so it's not that. I got this Stealth NEW 2 weeks ago I was charging while using SSD 16GB model

Hi all, I'm new to the forum but have been building for some years now. I had build a pc almost a year ago now and it has been serving well as an HTPC and VR box in my living room. When I first put it together, I powered it on, the PSU "clicked," all the fans spun, and i got a bios screen. So naturally i put it all together in a Node 202, loaded windows onto it, and it worked just fine. I did notice that everytime i would boot it up, though, the PSU would "click", but it would be fine, windows loaded, games ran fine, nothing out of the ordinary. The clicking also happened when the computer would power off. Specs: ASRock A320M-ITX AM4 AMD Ryzen 5 1600 Noctua NH-L9i Corsair Vengeance LPX 16gb (2x8gb) Samsung 850 Evo sata WD blue 1tb 2.5" Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1660 Ti Corsair SF 450 W 80+ Gold All wrapped up in a Node 202 Fast forward to today, tried to turn on the HTPC, PSU "clicked" like it always did, but nothing came on screen, then i would hear another "click", the PC turned off, then "click", and it was back on. It would do this for as long as i let it, which was like 5 mins at the most. So to hardware troubleshooting, i ripped it all down to just a single ram stick and CPU, still getting the same thing. So now thinking its the PSU, I find an old mobo and CPU from a previous build, break it out, and power it up with the Corsair PSU. Vualá! It powered on, and stayed on just fine. So then back to the HTPC board and CPU, i grab a known good PSU from another previous build, plug that one in, which is a Rosewill Capstone 550m, and of course, it "clicks," powers on, no display, "click" power off, "click" power on. So with all of this said, what the heck is going on? Do i now expect to have a bad CPU or mobo? Im certain its not the PSU's at this point. Im just so confused on why it worked for 11 months, then decided to stop today. Any help would be appreciated, Thanks.

I have a Lenovo Thinkpad 320 that I got a couple years ago with a i7 7500u and 16GB of ram. I stopped using it around a year ago when I built a PC, and I've decided to give it to my sister for homework, video editing, and maybe some light indie gaming (The Sims 4, Minecraft, etc.). Anyways, I'm replacing the old clicky 2TB HDD with a 256GB SSD, and I was wondering if there was any use for the old HDD. It conveniently started clicking around the same time that the laptop's warranty expired, and I never really stored more than 500GB of stuff on it at once, so I'm baffled that it started clicking so soon, even if it still works. I would love to use it in my personal build, or give it to a friend or my dad to use in their PCs, but is it reliable or fixable, or should I just throw it out?

Hi all, I recently upgraded from an older 4770k to a ryzen 3700x and MSI Creation x570 mobo. I still have a GTX 1070. However upon the new system, I experience audio clicks during gameplay or music. I also experience drops of over 10 to 20 frames during gaming. I run audio from an hdmi cable off my 1070 to my Pioneer AVR. I have swapped the cable and the ports on both the avr and the 1070 to no change. I also checked my ps4, tv, and Xbox on other ports of the avr, to see if it was in fact the pioneer unit. It isnt. They work fine. Im waiting for the new 3000 series nvidia to upgrade, but i ask, could it be the mobo or the gpu? After a driver update for the gpu or a bios update for the motherboard, these things go away for a time. But soon return. I used latencymon, and it says something about CPU throttling in control panel, but im using the AMD Ryzen Power settings. I also just updated my bios to the most recent(as of a month) and it came back. Im greatly annoyed and wishing I'd stuck with intel or at least Asus. But at the time Newegg didnt have any Asus boards.

Hi everyone, I just got a very basic wireless mouse that I want to use to game on my laptop. The problem is, whenever I spam click, the clicks stack up and register later. For example, if I am attacking in super smash bros, and I click 30 times, those clicks will stack up and have me attack 30 times instead of the maybe 10 times it should. Does anyone know how to fix this problem?

Hello, Today I turned on my computer and my mouse click just does not work. I tried everything I know of: I restarted the computer, I scanned windows for corrupted files, but none of this helped. I can click on the login screen, and about 10 seconds on the desktop, then it stops working. Left and right mouse buttons dont work, but the scroll wheel does. Thanks in advance! Specs: Windows 10 64bit CPU: Intel i5-4570 3.2 GHz 4-core GPU: MSI (AMD) Radeon 280X RAM: 16GB DDR3

What are the chances LTT would put out a video investigating and calling out Logitech for knowingly putting out a defective mouse model, and not taking any steps to correct the issue? There are hundreds of complains about the G903 and it's defective switches. I personally have gotten pretty good at opening RMA tickets, since I've had to RMA 4 G903 in the last 6 months - sometimes immediately after taking the mouse out of the box and plugging it in. I've contacted their support over phone and explained the situation, and directed them to their own forums where this issue is reported by hundreds of users. They refuse to refund your purchase if it wasn't purchased directly from the Logitech webstore less than 30 days ago. The only 2 options they give you, is sending a replacement G903 (which is also defective), or to give you partial web store credit (to buy another product by a company that doesn't stand behind their products). It is a really unfortunate situation, because even though there are hundreds of reports of defective mice - every single report comes along with a ton of praise. The G903 + powerplay mat is the ultimate peripheral purchase - IF IT WASN'T DEFECTIVE! The issue was first reported in Sept 2017, and the only "acknowledgement" from Logitech is a single support user who frequents the forums (I don't even think he is a Logitech employee) who says they are aware and working on it - but nothing has happened in nearly 1 year - not even an official statement. Like most people, I've been a die-hard Logitech consumer for almost 20 years, and have preferred their products over their competitors. This is the first time I've had an issue with their product or their company... and it feels like they dgaf. Logitech Forum Thread 1 Logitech Forum Thread 2 Logitech Forum Thread 3 Video showing issue Reddit user forced to fix it himself after 3 RMAs

Is there an auto clicker that automatically clicks when the pointer turns into the hand pointer? Thanks

Hey LTT. Reluctantly, I'm going to have to replace my mouse. I currently use a G303 Daedalus Apex which I liked a lot. It had the compact form factor I prefer. For the last couple months my left click has been half broken. It constantly double clicks and I can't hold it down to drag anything. This makes doing work for school a nightmare. I cant highlight anything or drag windows around without huge hassle. Unfortunately this mouse is discontinued by Logitech so I can't get another. I have an old Deathadder that I replaced because it has no middle click, and the sensor will randomly wiggle the cursor around. I'm hoping someone can point me at a good mouse that is a similar size to the G303 but for cheaper. I'm in my last semester of college and I'm running on fumes as far as money goes. I still want to be able to game so I don't lose all of my sanity.