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Don't even ask why I'm using Windows XP, it's a hobby project. Anyway what the title suggests is true, running the very latest Catalyst drivers available for XP. When on the desktop its extremely laggy and black rectangles frequently appear. Any GPU intensive application runs worse than it did on the older board-integrated graphics. CPU is an AMD Athlon 64 4000+.

A few years ago I purchased a Sceptre C248B-144RN monitor and it worked great for the longest time with zero issues. However within the last year or so I was getting weird colored lines at the bottom of my screen after a cold boot. At first it was just a few lines that went away after 10 or so minutes but slowly it evolved into lines that climbed halfway up the screen and took several hours to go away. Just recently after some heavy thought sessions I tried turning down my refresh rate from 144hz to 60hz and guess what? Good as new. I originally thought it was the cable as that was an obvious solution since the lines were only appearing with input from the PC, however after rebooting my computer quite literally as I was ordering a new DP cable I noticed that my monitor had begun showing said lines on it's own boot screen. This basically left me stumped and I feel as though the only fix is going to be getting a new monitor, however my pockets aren't the deepest and with my wedding coming up I absolutely cannot afford to spend money on a new gaming monitor right now. No drivers exist online for this monitor and windows thinks I'm up to date anyway, anyone have any clue of a possible way to fix this without throwing the whole thing out?

I have a little bit of extra money saved up, and I was originally planning to buy an M2 Mac Mini, but I realized that I just don't need the extra performance and it's really not worth the effort of switching to macOS. Then, I saw the new-ish $69 gaming PC video, and since I love myself a little bit of jank, I thought I might build myself a new workstation along those lines. I've been a laptop kind of gal most of my life, and am kinda sick of it. I want upgradability, and I don't want a screen I don't use taking up space on my desk. Budget (including currency): If I'm going mostly used, I'd like to keep it under 200 USD, but I could go as high as $5-600 for new parts instead. Country: United States Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: I've found since I've switched to using Linux full-time, tinkering with that has become more of a hobby than gaming with it, but I'd like to be able to run Minecraft and FlightGear. Maybe some light CAD, but it won't be anything autodesk. Mostly programming work other than that, and I mainly use emacs. I also dabble in music composition, so whatever I'm saving by not buying all that much computer, I'd love some audio or MIDI device recommendations Other details I won't be purchasing Windows, I'm planning to run a Linux distro of some kind. Probably Slackware, but maybe I'll get around to actually making a usable LFS setup I have two displays: An FHD (2560 x 1080) Ultrawide, and a 1440p display Keyboard and mouse are already taken care of If I can avoid a particularly locked-down BIOS, I'd love to. An upgradable machine would be a dream

hello I need a gaming PC it needs to be able to play AAA games at the high preset thanks. - AAA Games at High - I Use GBP (£) - needs to be as cheap as possible but without any sacrifices - Include Windows 10 Home please

Hello, friends. Today, I'm going to bring you a review of a rather, interesting keyboard, the DSI 90-key USB Multimedia keyboard with Cherry MX Reds. What makes this interesting, you may ask? I paid only $20 for this, new. For reference, to get 90 Cherry MX Reds, you'd have to pay about $31. This keyboard cost me less than the switches. But that's not all, the unusual qualities of this board don't end there. This keyboard has a 3 port USB 2.0 hub built into it, but it's not powered by just the USB port. The keyboard comes with a hecking power plug. The "wall wart"-style plug connects to the keyboard via a round pin near the USB port. This is, according to the Newegg listing, to provide additional power to the USB hub. Thumbs up for that, I guess? This keyboard also features dedicated volume keys, a play/pause key that I can't seem to get working and the Fn key, along the left side of the board. "But wait", you ask, "what goes where the Fn key usually goes?" Well the answer to that would be a 1u Windows key for, some inexplicable reason. The bezel around the board is rather large, and with those media keys taking up a row of the keyboard then everything's kinda, shifted over to the right; it was wicked awkward getting used to this layout. I repeatedly hit the Mute key on accident during my testing period. The caps appear to be pad printed ABS, but the ink used for the lettering is rather cheap. The N key in particular shows a lot of wear after less than a week. Since the keyboard uses a completely non-standard layout - seriously, not even my Kira is this non-standard - I don't believe that finding better quality caps will be easy. They are not very thick and will produce a bit of sound as the user types. As far as the typing experience goes, let me say right off the bat that I do not like linear switches. I prefer the feedback that tactile switches provide as I type, and since Cherry MX Reds are so light it's insanely easy to accidentally actuate keys you don't want to type. Cherry MX Reds themselves are particularly scratchy; it feels like I'm typing on sandpaper. They are not very smooth at all, although this can probably be rectified by lubing the switches. As far as I can tell these are genuine Cherry MX Reds, but based on this first impression of a Cherry switch in a while I think I'm better off with "cheap Chinese clones" like Kailh. Actually, the moment I post this I'm going back to my Box Royals because they provide a much more satisfying typing experience, in my opinion. Ugh. I have heard that linear switches are supposed to be "better" for gaming compared to tactile switches, because of their more instant response, but I noticed no difference in my performance when playing games on my PC compared to my usual tactiles. Now, the positive side of things is, because this keyboard is so cheap (as of right now you can buy it for $22 on Newegg) there isn't much risk involved with modding, compared to a more expensive keyboard. I'm not sure when I'll try my hand at it but I'm pretty sure I'll be desoldering the board and replacing the switches with better ones down the road. Although, as I have previously stated, I do not like linear switches, so I will likely replace them with tactile switches. Maybe then I can also find a better-quality keycap set. Oh, and for those of you wondering, the USB cable is non-detachable, and there are no flip-up feet on the bottom of the board. The angle, which is rather flat, is the only one you get. Better get used to it, especially if you want this to be your main board. The build quality is surprisingly good for a keyboard that costs this much. The case is plastic, and there's not a lot of heft to it, but there's almost no flex at all. I'd assume that a rather thick, strong mounting plate is being used to give the board its rigidity. I'd have to check to make sure of this but damn is this thing strong! I bought this board for laughs because of its absurdly cheap price, but instead I'm walking away from it impressed because of how good it is in spite of its price. If you really want a cheap Cherry MX Red keyboard then this is the one to get, because there's really nothing that you can lose considering it costs so little. In fact, I'd say that because it costs so little, there's almost no risk if you decide to replace the switches with better ones. Just be aware that doing so will void your warranty, but... are you really going to cry if you break a $20 product? You've got nothing to lose with this one. Nowie out.

Just wanted to share this with ya'll, its a fully function gaming pc, 8gb ram, intel pentium, 400 watt power suply, 120gb ssd, and an AMD ATI Radeon HD 6450. Here's the links: Intel Pentium Dual-Core E2200 Processor, 2.2 GHz, 1M L2 Cache, 800MHz FSB, LGA775: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0010TCK3A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=AL1R147NEYJ60&psc=1 Dell Optiplex 760 SFF Motherboard F373D 0F373D: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EDG6X8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A2NLTSHFPYQ1BH&psc=1 SAMSUNG M393T1K66AZA-CE6 8GB DDR2 REG ECC PC2-5300 CL5 1GBX72 512MX4 1.8V 240P DIMM: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUG8NAU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1YVNUWCANOJXA&psc=1 APEVIA ATX-VS450W Venus 450W ATX Power Supply with Auto-Thermally Controlled 120mm Fan, 115/230V Switch, All Protections: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GUENTKC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=AEHA1AAWZIC3L&psc=1 PNY CS900 120GB 2.5 inch SATA III Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) - (SSD7CS900-120-RB): PNY CS900 120GB 2.5 inch SATA III Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) - (SSD7CS900-120-RB) AMD ATI Radeon HD 6450 1GB PCIE DVI D-Port Video Card ATI-102-C26405 Low Profile: https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMD-ATI-Radeon-HD-6450-1GB-PCIE-DVI-D-Port-Video-Card-ATI-102-C26405-Low-Profile/183728429755?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 You an old box as a case, it wont be pretty at first but you can decorate it and make it look cool. Please let me know if anyone builds this or if this helps!

Hey guys, my birthday is coming up and I've been thinking heavily on deciding whether I should build a PC or buy a new next gen console. First off I want to say, please keep your arguments as objective as possible, and honestly try to help me decide! If I was to buy a pc it would only be about $500 (not including os). The most important things to me for making this decision would be friends and the games I want to play. I have friends on both the xb1 and pc, so I can't really decide from that, and for games I really would want to play sports games, console exclusives, and racing games on the xb1. I feel like PC doesn't even have those options, or big communities. For example the community on console for Fifa is waaaaaay larger than on PC that's why I don't even think about playing Fifa on PC. The reasons why I would like to start pc gaming is because all I really played on PC is LoL, csgo and minecraft, which is about all I can run on this shitbox of a computer I own right now. There are a ton of games that I would like to play on PC though, a lot of mmo's like Skyforge, games like Battlefield which run better on pc, etc. It's really hard for me to make this decision because yes PC plays a lot better than console and everything but I don't get to play the games I love. Also I will be entering university in a matter of months, and I would like to game there during my spare time, so space is a matter, as well as costs, upgradability , etc. Please help, thank!!

Hey there, So I found this mouse for ~8USD (post conversion)... Use is general purpose, light gaming, and photoshop... I'm coming from an ~600dpi optical mouse from A4Tech (which is almost ultimately rubbish when used in Photoshop)... My other options are a CDR-King optical (~400dpi, crap build quality) for ~5USD, an Elephant mouse (~700dpi) for around the same price, and my current mouse... Thoughts? This is one review/overview that I watched: Thanks, -Hermit

I'm doing a PC part picker build and I've been trying to keep it cheap. I want an SSD as a boot drive and maybe put some applications on it, but mainly a boot drive. Sub-$100 is optimal with a storage minimum of however big Win 8.1 is. (PC Part Picker link for the curious: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/wow_pow34/saved/8vKnTW)

Would anybody help me choose from theese two models : Packard Bell Maestro 226DXbd vs AOC i2269Vwhttp://www.amazon.co.uk/Packard-Bell-Maestro-Widescreen-Monitor/dp/B00F2HM0EU and http://www.bestbuy.com/site/aoc-21-5-ips-led-hd-monitor-black/8163044.p I already know what there is to know about the two displays but I cannot decide which ones to go for, two Packard Bells or two AOCs

Budget (including currency): 7000 PEN aprox or 2000 USD Country: Perú, land of the Inca and crumbling economy. Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Pretty much a lot of stuff, have been filling some laptop HDDs with plenty big games, I would like to play Cyberpunk 2077 nicely tho. Am also a Photoshop snob (check RAM), I would like to learn premiere and 3D software like Blender, but current PC can't run those!. Other details: I already planned a Build, but won't share individual pricing, because it isn't quite constant where I live in, and everything is always overpriced, just need some help in deciding if everything works together, want to know if it's a good build overall (I wanna build a PC that runs plenty of stuff without any problems, upgrading from a potato AIO.). Also would like to know if there are any other parts that I could change, so my build could be a little bit cheaper in international terms, but still want the same really good performance. This would be my first build and I will be building it, I live in a not so much central part of Perú and want a PC that can work for a long time and has good components / specs, everything will be delivered. I already have perfierals and am planning to buy a 144Hz monitor in the near future. The Build goes as follows: CPU Intel Core i7 10700k GPU 30XX or 2080 Super MOBO TUF Gaming Z490 - PLUS (WI-FI) Case MSI MAG Forge 100R RAM T-Force Delta 3200 (4x8) BOUGHT m.2 SSD m.2 SSD WD Black 250 GB (NVME) HDD Seagate Barracuda 2 TB PSU NOT DECIDED Cooler Cooler Master Hyper 212X Case Coolers haven't been decided yet, don't know what brands are good, don't care about RGB though, just want reliability! I have some doubts about this build, firstly I don't know if I should pair the HDD with and SSD, the ones I want are expensive here (860 EVO), but Kingston SSDs are the "cheap" alternative. Are those good enough? It would be mostly used for booting heavy games. Secondly, I am not sure if the 10700K would be a good option, I was planning to buy a 3700X with an x570 mobo but chose instead a 10700k, due to it appealing more in reliability to me. Pricing here would be equivalent due to x570 being really expensive and I wanted it due to future compatibility and also better build quality. I am currently waiting 'till september 1st to see if Ampere would be a better option against a 2080 Super, my final decision would be taken the day it's announced. Haven't decided on a PSU due to Ampere, want to know what Voltage would be better then. But am not conforming with less than 750w (current build edges 500W). Also are Cooler Master or Antryx non-modular PSU good? Am I loosing anything excluding better cable management? Gold certification btw. Is that case good? I have looked it up and like it, but I need good dust filtering, I live in a pretty arid place, I technically live next to dunes LMAO, stuff get's dusty frequently. Really like that case and it has decent dust filtering, I would prefer supreme filtering and airflow, but don't wanna spend too much. Don't know if this post is quite conventional, any help is much appreciated, I am willing to wait, so please I accept any criticism, this is my eight pre-build btw, it is based on what's available here in my country. PSDT: Noctua Coolers are only sold by one provider to my knowledge, it's the NOCTUA NH-D15 CHROMAX BLACK and is like 150 USD in PEN, is that a good deal? I know it's the best, is watercooling a better alternative? I am plannign to do some slight OC, but I'm a literal amateur so I haven't decided that yet. PSDT_2: Don't care about RGB, I am darkness! THANK YOU VERY MUCH!