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Found 135 results

  1. I'm creating a new case mod with Cooler Master's Mastercase 5 / Pro Mid Tower. "Mastercase Racing" will be the catalyst for new bolt-on accessories and modifications for this case by Mnpctech. The custom paint finish will be inspired race by Steve McQueen's GULF PORSCHE 917 from his 1971 movie, "Le Mans." The MasterCase Mid Tower draws it's inspiration from Cooler Master's MasterConcept from 2016 CES. Cooler Master wants you to have absolute control over how your case looks and functions. You can adjust the exterior structure and it's look through a range of replacement panels and doors. Each choice changes the look of the exterior while giving you flexibility of the interior layout. Order a new Mastercase 5 or Pro from Newegg, HERE The legendary PORSCHE 917 is the inspiration for the custom paint on this case mod. The 917 only raced for three seasons. It placed 1st in fourteen of the twenty one races it entered 1969 through 1971. The only Gulf Porsche 917 to win the 24 Hours of Le Mans was the one driven in Steve McQueen's "Le Mans" movie. His 917 from the movie was chassis # 022 and purchased in 1970, from the Porsche by Steve McQueen's movie production company, Solar Productions. It was also the company that would bring the movie "Le Mans" to the big screen. This is the car that McQueen's character, Michael Delaney, starts the race in, and "crashes" late in the race, "writing the car off." The car that was crashed was really a Lola T-70, painted and rebodied, to look like a 917. Many innovations in cinematography, were first tried in this movie. They even went so far, as to weld brackets to the front frame work of the 917, so they could mount a camera to shoot Steve, and the other drivers, in the cockpit. I'm debating about replacing the #22 with #5 to represent the Mastercase 5. Display the hardware in your Cooler Master MasterCase Pro & 5 with the "Easy PC Mastercase Window Panel" It allows a full view inside your PC without any obstructions. "Easy PC Window Panel" is professionally laser cut from 1/8" thick 100% cast acrylic. It has embedded magnets to make installation and removal fast and easy. The window panel is the same size as the factory steel panel for the Cooler Master MasterCase Pro & 5. The Mastercase 5 chassis and exterior parts before prepping them with Red Scotchbrite for our custom paint finish. I will be utilizing House of Kolor and PPG products. Here is the hardware I'd like to use for the "Mastercase Racing" Gaming PC build, but my budget may have to be limited for another personal project. I'd love the INTEL Core i7-6700K 8M Skylake Quad-Core 4.0 GHz LGA 1151 91W processor to be our race car engine. My first choice of motherboard is GIGABYTE's GA-Z170X-SOC FORCE. It's touted as the ultimate Z170 "Super OverClock" solution from GIGABYTE. It also offers a vast array of user features that includes 22 phases of digital power, cool new OC Touch buttons, durable PCIe slots with metal trim. The SOC FORCE has a large heat sink layout with heat pipe dissipation system and water channel technology to incorporate hybrid cooling through air and liquid supply. This allows the VRMs and MOSFETs to stay cool under load when voltages are pushed high Brad is applying final coat of Gulf Racing Orange paint, this was custom mixed from specs for the 1970 Porsche 917 race car from Steve McQueen's movie, "Le Mans" We applied this paint to the EK radiator and misc Mastercase accessories I'll be utilizing "5" as race number to represent Cooler Master's Mastercase 5
  2. Hello all, just registered here since I have a problem I just couldn't fix. Long story short, I'm designing a new case for my own PC (my first build). I want the case to be fully compatible with the ATX standard. But I just can't find the specifications for the expansion cards (graphics card, additional network interface, etc). Yes, I could just take my cards and meassure them, but than I can't be sure that ALL possible cards will fit. Also it will be a much cleaner build when I have absolute numbers. (Considering what odd numbers are used throughout the ATX standard, rounding would be a bad idea). And before someone asks, yes I have searched the ATX specifications for information about the expansion cards. When I have all the data I need I also plan to merge them into one big document to make it easier to build ATX-cases yourself. Thank you all in advance. -- Also please excuse my poor english, I'm not a native.
  3. So I have the NZXT S340 Elite case, and I am considering to maybe mod the top I/O part of the case to add in a USB Type-C port. I checked the case, and next to the HDD LED, there is about 1.5 inches of flat metal with no electronics. If I am to drill a hole the size of a Type-C port and reroute a USB-C extension cable from the rear I/O to the top, what would that entail? What materials would I need? How hard would it be? And also while I'm in there, is it possible to fit a micro sd card reader next to it too? Thanks!
  4. Project BATTLEGROUNDS This is a little project that I thought of, and posted about already. It is an Orange and Black themed build, with super minor and basic case/SSD/anything else mod. I will be spray painting a collage of things from the game PLAYERUNKNOWN'S BATTLEGROUNDS on the side panel, and any other mods I think of. PLAYER UNKNOWN'S BATTLEGROUNDS is a survival battle royale type game where 100 players are dropped on an island and you loot houses for weapons and armor and if you're the last one alive you win, that is the most basic explanation of the game I can give. This is not a build I will complete in the next month, but in the next couple months. I have already made a super rough, crappy looking stencil of my idea of what will be on the side of the case, and what will be put on the SSD, as well as potentially other things. I will be potentially spray painting the cooler and other parts that don't match the Black and Orange theme. Official "Banner" for the Build Hardware Case: In Win 101 Black ATX Mid Tower Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-AX370- Gaming K5 GPU: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 GV-N1080TTOC-8GD PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 650 G2 Fully Modular Ram: HyperX Fury 8GB (2x4GB) Black CPU: Ryzen 5 1600X CPU Cooler: Corsair H110i SSD: TBD Extras Fans: x5 Corsair RGB SP120 LED Strip: NZXT Hue+ Controller for everything: Corsair CL-9011110-WW Digital Fan and RGB Lighting Controller CaleMod Black and Orange cables Spray Paint Anything else I think of I will update. Note 2: Found almost everything, still need paint, but I found all the fans and the fans and the led strip. I switched out the Gigabyte 1080 to a Gigabyte 1070, because it looks better and is cheaper. The final price of this build, excluding the paint, the fans and the controller, and the led strip. Final price: $1358.9 I am open to recommendations for different hardware and advice on what paints to use so don't be shy. The way things are going with Graphics Cards right now, I don't know if this is going to happen soon, since every gpu I go for is sold out a day after.
  5. Hi guys, Welcome back to another one of my build logs. I'm pretty excited for this one It will be based on Darth Maul and incorporate some interesting ideas with the Corsair 600C case! I did a video covering the case, fully disassembling it as well as talking about the mods! Check it out below: SPECS: Case - Corsair 600C CPU - Intel Core i7 6700K or 7700K MB - ASUS MAXIMUS VIII Extreme RAM - 4 x 8GB Corsair Vengeance Red LED 2666MHz DDR4 GPUs - 2 x ASUS STRIX GTX 980Ti SSD - 3 x 240GB Corsair Neutron XTi HDD - 2 x Seagate TBC PSU - Corsair RM850X Custom cables and lighting - CableMod Water cooling - Bitspower Here are also some photos of the case to start off with Thanks for checking it out and stay tuned for more! Cheers, Alex
  6. I think this is in the right thread. It it isn't please let me know and I'll figure out how to move it! I have a very basic mATX case, with some mid-range hardware in it. I'm planning on picking up some RGB fans and RGB strips in order to give my case a green-yellow pulsing theme, like Lucio from Overwatch. I'm trying to decide what the best way is to add a Lucio (the character in Overwatch) theme to my build. Right now I'm leaning toward using a dremel tool to cut some variety of logo into the side of the case for the lights to shine through, and to show off the parts inside. I have two questions: will drilling into the side cause thermal problems? Also (and this one is more of a long shot, but might as well ask) can anyone recommend a design? The one I've linked won't work because of the eyes and mouth of the frog, but it conveys the general idea.
  7. Hey Everyone! My name is Dawson and thanks so much for checking out my build log! This will be my fourth build, second time liquid cooling, and first time using a form factor other than ATX. The goal of this build is to find a case that has excellent craftsmanship and subtle aesthetics (and will therefore need no exterior modification) and modify the interior to create a unique but clean look. That being said, let’s get on with the specs: Core Components: CPU – 6800k GPU – Gtx 1080 RAM – 32gb G.skill Ripjaws 4 2666mhz Mobo – Asus X99-M WS PSU – Corsair RM1000i Storage – Samsung 960 Evo 250gb, Intel 750 Series 400gb PCIE, 2x Samsung 850 EVO 250gb in RAID 0 Case – Phanteks Evolv Micro ATX Glass, Anthracite Grey Liquid Cooling: Blocks – EK Nickel Plexi for CPU, GPU, Intel SSD Pump – Alphacool VPP755 with EK X-Top Revo Plexi Radiators – EK SE240 and EK SE360 Fans – 5x Noiseblocker BlackSilent Pro Reservoir – Singularity Computers Protium Medium – Polished Acrylic with Black rings Fittings – TBD, Bitspower 16mm of some colour most likely Fluid – TBD, leaning towards Mayhems X-1 Purple at this point Miscellaneous: Cables – Scratch-Built using Mainframe Customs Black Sleeving and Gosumodz Alliance Combs Lighting – TBD Control – Aquaero 6 PRO with Flow and Temp Sensors Nanoxia CoolForce Cable Combs Modification list: Create a custom, inverted motherboard tray from aluminum Create a custom rear case panel to clean up the aesthetics Modify the GPU bracket (for what I won’t say yet…) ;P Powder coat all interior parts matte black That’s all for now, but I’ll just leave the obligatory group photo below for now: Thanks for looking!
  8. So, this is my very first post, and not even in my native language... so please be kind What is this about? As you may guess, it's an illumination modification from the standard Razer's acid-green to a IR controlled RGB led stripe, on the NZXT H440 case. (Actually, it looks better than the photo... damn cellphone's cameras) How difficult is this mod for me to perform? Well, OCD aside, it's quite simple. That, of course, depending on how much time and effort you wanna put onto it. How much does it cost? Around US$ 30/40 (assuming you already have all the tools) What do I need to perform it? 12V RGB LED Stripe (duh), 2 or 3 m IR LED controller Precision wire cutter Knife or Cutter Phillip screwdriver (N°1 will do) Soldering iron Tin (I recommend a 0.8 mm diameter) Thermal-shrink tubes (for about 2mm, 5mm and 10mm final contraction) 5m of 22 or 24 AWG wire (an ethernet patchcord CAT 5e or 6 will do) Zip ties, electrical tape, wire ties (optional). Glue gun (optional) OK, lets get started... BEFORE ANYTHING Think! Visualize what you want, then draw it on a piece of paper, a nap, or whatever you have in order to calculate wire longitudes, paths and final layout. Even better, surf the web for ideas, past experiences from other users, and tips and recommendations. When you're on unexplored waters, you definitely want to have a compass... or a great amount of faith Also, make sure your workplace is wide and tidy, I can't tell you how much annoying is to lose a precision alignment or a critical soldering because you just don't want to stack away something that blocks your angle or visual. (yep, it doesn't matter how ugly you draw it, as long as you make a clear work route) Remember that the wires lengths should keep a fair amount of gain (this is: a + 10/20% of length of your base calculation) for those places where the original "diagonal-direct path" have several centimeters less that the "go neat and tidy by this path, and then over here, here and here...". If you have no trouble in cable's supply, let the maximum calculated length be the limit... and even, add a 20% more of length just in case (yep, better more than less). Of course, the stock lights need to be put aside. For the bottom ones, they are fixed by a couple of screws that holds the enclosure. Not a challenge... The side and front logo? Keep reading! And so, it begins Ok, so according to your mental blueprint, you should measure each stripe and cut it by the dotted line, followed by stripping the insulation (in case you have a water-proof stripe). A great explanation for it, as a guide in general, is provided by M-L on this post, and this images. (Always measure the length of each stripe to be LESS than the housing where you're going to use it. Remember that any cut made beyond the soldering copper, will leave the RGB LEDs inoperative) Remember that each stripe should be daisy-chained in a linear fashion, that eventually ends in a 4 pin connector that hooks up onto the RGB controller. In my case, I used the 3 pin fan hub to concentrate all the "circuits" of light, and then on the 4th pin (the +12V one), twisted all together and insulate it properly. Make sure you use the same colors in the order established by the LED stripe, or some circuits will light up different colors than expected. (Order is fundamental, take notes of every "convention" you use and stick to it, no matter what you read or what someone tells you) Also, take your time to insulate the connections properly, don't forget that this is an electric connection directly powered by your PSU (more of this later), you DON'T want a short circuit of any kind. You can accomplish this by using thermal shrink tubes of different sizes (according to the weight of your wire), electrical tape, or even a glue gun. Proper insulation is fundamental, this is an ELECTRICAL MOD (And YES, a heat gun would have been a better choice...) The PSU Shroud The first major mod will have place on Razer's logo, both on the side within the PSU shroud, and the front main logo. Regarding the side panel, the whole side panel is held by several metal "tongues", which you must straighten so the plate gets free. Once outside, four screws hold the inner case where the green light is housed. (The side panel comes out with little effort... not so the green layer of paint) Once there, comes the most hateful of all parts: removing the green layer of paint that covers the acrylic panel from the logo. (SPOILER ALERT: it won't look good) (I wish someone had told me "Dude, just DON'T") At first I tried with a pointed tweezers, but then I found that a small torx screwdriver fitted better. You may find useful whatever tool you have, as long as the job is done. Keep in mind that an inner bevel help you a little bit by letting the tool "travel" along the groove. I have no idea if a dremel drill tool with a small point could make this less hateful, but if you have one to try and come back with your expertise, BE MY GUEST. (It keeps getting worse) Anyway, no matter what I used, it was an awful experience. The type of material was a kind of synthetic paint that, even with care and patience, it peeled off and cracked it beyond the logo lines... man, I hated myself, at NZXT, and even Min-Liang Tan. You may think that the same goal could be achieved by using some kind of black tape, or even a plastic cover... but no, green-vomit paint will be. The partial solution when the cracks spread out too much, is to paint it back with a black sharpie the borders above the bevel and the inner snake pattern. Hopefully, this will make a little less horrible the final product. In any case, the final outcome will be camouflaged by the light, making this a little more hopeful... unless you get to look at it at 1 feet away (Same kind of Death was encountered at front logo) The next step will be attaching the light strips so most part of the logo gets covered. All this, aligned the most centered you can, in order to avoid light diffusion problems or unexpected shadows. Keep in mind the screw holes, and the subtle elevation that the cover has on that side of the plastic (inevitable if you want that the lights be at center respect to the logo). I even had to peel off the inner sides of the screws holes so the lights fits in properly. (Daisy-chain in a way that the cables don't make too much bump) Find the most suitable path for the cables to get out of the enclosure, in a way that they don't cause congestion and generate problems when closing the cover. Help you out by using some tape that sticks the stripes and cables to the desired position. Zip ties here won't help, since the inner space of the enclosure won't let you use them... (also, they won't help you on fix the movement. Maybe a glue gun?) The Front Logo Now, regarding the front logo: obviously it's on the front panel, and the enclosure is behind the acoustical absorption foam. This foam, of course, it's glued to the panel. Not that it's impossible to remove, but it does get difficult when the glue tears apart with the foam included. (Go easy on the foam, use your fingers by lifting it enough so the cutter goes smoothly) Make your way until the front logo panel it's at hand. Then, use the same technique used on side logo by keeping in mind the small increment on size (you'll need 5 stripes instead of 3 for full cover). (Once again, daisy-chain several stripes to cover almost every corner of the logo) When you get the stripes presented and glued/fixed/taped/whatever on position, go backwards and re-glue the foam. (Make sure you cover nicely the surface of the foam) The final step with this cover will be to glue a stripe along the mesh. I separated a couple of cm from the edge so that the light can get inside the case (at that height, the fan's stand won't cast a shadow from the lights) (Choose the side where the cables will go down so that matches with your hub location... or at least, the most shorter path) REMEMBER: the front and top panel needs additional cable length in order to give you the ability to move them and rearrange the front/top fans if needed. Except if you use a 4 pin connector between the case and the panel, you'll need approx. 20/30 cm of "loose" cable. (when closed, this cable length goes inside without zip ties). 20160119_175242000_iOS.MOV The logo won't be perfect, but at distance it's acceptable. Top Panel Just as the front panel, glue a stripe along the mesh a couple of cm of the edge, and leave enough cable for later management. (Nope, no picture of top panel... but take a look at my gorgeous cat!) Under Motherboard First step is obvious: take note of the size of your motherboard and cut the stripes accordingly. In my case, an ATX form factor takes about 2 by 4 stripes and 1 by 5. Take a look again of where are you going to connect the cables, and daisy-chain the stripes respecting that layout. The inner frame from the standoff screws gives you the path for the stripes. In this case, I found that for an inner glow that stands out without pumping out too much bright, I should follow the standoffs for the mobo, following the inner frame. At that instance, the light will come out as decoration and not so much as illumination. 20160125_174627000_iOS.MOV More or less, the MOBO light effect. Backplate light You'll need to remove the leds stands that are on the backplate, so that you can stick a single stripe onto it. The only precaution here will be that the width of that plate makes it very difficult to manage the cables to go smoothly and won't let you work comfortably. Once again, take note of the insulation of the tips of the stripes! Check the image above, I even had to cut one side of the stripe contacts so that fits in the plate. This won't affect the RBG leds since the cut it's at the end of the copper contact, and wont' brake any circuits paths. For the cable management, you may find that the narrow opening between the plate's folds won't be enough, but with patience and fitting one cable at a time, you'll make them bend over it. The On/Off light switch Originally, this case has a global on/off switch for ALL the lights on the case, but since the RGB controller can be turned off by the remote, I thought in using the switch for a A/B light configuration. The light switch has two modes for operation, not just an "on/off" capability. Again, since you have previously invested an amount of time to think the lights and circuits of lights on the case (recall the BEFORE ANYTHING part of this post), at this point you should have an A circuit and a B circuit. What I've done is give at the A circuit an "always on" state (no matter the switch position, as long as the RGB controller it's ON, the lights will be ON), and give at the B circuit a "conditional state" that depends on the switch (the lights will only turn ON if both the RGB controller and the switch are ON). What this allows me to do, is that if I feel like I don't want too much bright from the lights or just WHATEVER, I can simply switch it off and be happy In order to do this, you'll need a tester to figure out which pins close, which ones open, and where are the common ones. For this model, the pinout for the switch is as follows: The switch allows you to command two states and two circuits. So 2 combinations can be made by the "on/off" capability. In my configuration, I only use one side of the switch (and only the "on" state). So when I turn it ON, all the lights pop up, but OFF will leave the logos and under MOBO circuit. In other words, the "common" pin goes to the +12V on the led strip and the "on" pin goes to the +12V from the PSU. Final lap! You've come a long way down, and now it's time to put all the pieces together. If you done this in a orderly fashion, all the cable management will be neat and tidy, and all the led cables will be concentrated on the "fan hub", leaving the 4th pin (the +12V) all around the hub. The next step will be to "grab" the +12V rail from a molex connector. Remember this pinout to identify it (no worries if you fail and connect it on the +5V like I did... it just won't light up and you then will realize it ). When done, you'll be finally over with all the soldering, zipping, taping and blah and, cable more or less, end up with something like this: Final outcome (opposite to window-side) Nope, nothing to describe here... just showing off (Window-side) Only thing to take note here is the IR receiver from the RGB controller. Since the length of the cable is quite short, you'll need to secure this little box to the bottom panel, and use the hole for the bottom lights to slide in the receiver. Since the receiver it's quite directional, you'll need to slide it out just enough for it to be seen at sight. Chroma, completed! Congratulations! Now you have a custom made RGB controlled case! You can also buy an RGB controlled keyboard and mouse to complete the scheme, and even RGB light bulbs, and since you are onto rainbows, AN UNICORN! But, whatever the choice you made, now you can set your lighting scheme according to your mood! Enjoy, and remember: maybe one day this will be an official product and sold by hundreds of dollars more! Now, some photos of the case! Yeah!!! Purple theme Orange (again: damn cellphone cameras) And even the Razer's Acid Green And full bright power from white combination. 20160212_005256000_iOS.MOV Video Show!
  9. (Completed) Project: HoloView

    Hey guys! I'm back with another sponsored project! EVGA was generous enough (as always) to send me some of their awesome hardware. This is another EVGA and Thermaltake sponsored project, and I named it "HoloView". Thermaltake was kind enough to send me their View 27 chassis and some of their water cooling components. This will be a quick (hopefully) and simple project but will add a special feature to it (hopefully I could pull it off properly). A huge shout out to the sponsors! Here's some of the components that will go in to this project. Yesterday I was able to test fit some components and tear the View 27 down to confirm some measurements and some possible radiator placements. The plan was to rotate the computer case 90 degree so the front panel will be the bottom of the case and the top will be the front panel. Here was my plan, either I will have the 360mm radiator in front and have the 240mm radiator at the bottom or the opposite way around. Originally, I thought I could use the area below the power supply for mounting a 240mm radiator but the power supply that I will be using is a bit long and will have some interference once the power cables are connected. So instead of doing that, I will mount a 140mm fan below the power supply as intake. Now that I have a rough idea of where and what components for water cooling are going to fit in, next will be taking measurements for the custom side panel, cutting out the 140mm fan mount on the back and making the custom front panel for the 240mm radiator. But that will be for the next update. That's it for this first update for the HoloView project. Thank you EVGA and Thermaltake, as always, for giving another opportunity to me for this project! See you in the next one! Ciao!
  10. Hey guys, Welcome back to another one of my builds logs! I'm happy to announce my entry into the 2017 Cooler Master CaseMod World Series in the MasterCase Maker 5t. It's a stunning looking case and I'm excited to work on it. I have a few interesting things planned for it, including some layout changes on the inside and a more unique water cooling loop set-up. I am calling this one Tempest and it will be based on the Tempest spaceship from the new Mass Effect Andromeda game. I did an overview video of the case as well as talked a bit about the mods where you can get a better idea of what I'm going to do in this case. Check it out below: SPECS: Case - Cooler Master MasterCase Maker 5t CPU - Intel TBC MB - ASUS Rampage V Extreme RAM - 8 x 4GB Crucial Ballistix Elite 3000MHz DDR4 GPU - NVIDIA TBC SSD - 2 x 275GB Crucial MX300 HDD - Seagate TBC PSU - Cooler Master V1000 Custom cables & lighting - CableMod Water Cooling - Bitspower I'll start it off with some photos of the gorgeous case: Thanks for checking it out and stay tuned for more Cheers, Alex
  11. Hi Folks Project Stranger Case is under way, watch the announcement CG trailer I put together. Thanks to @Slick @LinusTech for inspiring me to build again. Support their sponsors! Parts and full spec still under consideration but will feature a Intel i7, ASUS Motherboard, Corsair PSU, Case and RAM.
  12. Hi guys, Welcome back to another one of my build logs! This time I am working on the newly released Corsair Crystal 570X tempered glass case! I would like to thank everyone at Corsair for giving me the opportunity to work on this case as I know this was sent to a group of elite modders world wide! I'm simply honored to be considered for this and see myself up there with the talented people that I look up to and inspire my work! The 570X is a case with tempered glass on pretty much all sides and it's truly a stunning case. My build will be all about elegance and luxury as well as drawing a bit of inspiration from the crystal series name. SPECS: Case – Corsair Crystal 570X Motherboard – TBA CPU – TBA Memory – 4 x 4GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 3000Mhz DDR4 RAM GPU – TBA SSD – 240GB Corsair Force LE SSD PSU – TBA Custom Cables - CableMod Cooling Corsair H100i V2 Corsair HD120 RGB Fans To start off the build log I did a quick unboxing presentation of the case. I hope you guys enjoy it and stay tuned for more! Cheers, Alex
  13. So ive decided to embark on a new mod. I wasnt going to modify this build, but my Crosshair VI Hero for my ryzen build is on backorder. My anxiousness to do this build inspired me to get creative. Also, my 800D is way outdated and needs to be brought up to modern standards. The plan is to put two 360 rads in the case. On up top, one in the front. Drive mounting relocated to the bottom where the psu is. Also, updating the front panel i/o to support usb type c.
  14. Hi LTT! It's been a while since my last project! Having moved back to France after 10 wonderful years in Japan, it's time now to do another build. No scratchbuild this time like I did with the Hikari Project. My project will be based on the new Corsair case, the 570X RGB. Big thanks to all the sponsors of Black Diamond: Corsair, Aquacomputer, CableMod and Silicon Lottery. Here are the specs of this build: - CPU: i7 7700K binned and delidded by Silicon Lottery - Motherboard: TBA - RAM: Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR4 - PSU: Corsair AX1200i - GPU: Nvidia Titan X (Pascal) - SSD: 2x Corsair Neutron XTi - Case: Corsair 570X RGB - Sleeved cables by CableMod The CPU and GPU will be watercooled, thanks to Aquacomputer. This time again, I'm aiming for a simple but classy look. I hope you will enjoy the trip! Recently, I received some packages. Here is a little preview, more to come soon!
  15. I recently bought a huge lot of computer parts on Craigslist, some of which were for a client build. Not mentioned in the ad, however, was an poor old abused Cooler Master Elite 110. It had dried superglue all over it, random holes drilled in it, at least three coats of different colored paint all over it, and a few missing parts. This is going to be the thread where I document my adventures resurrecting, modding, and building with this case, all with a budget of zero. Everything I put into this case is going to be scrap, and hopefully it turns out usable. The first two pictures are some pictures of the damage the case had, while the third is what the orbital sander revealed about its thoroughly painted history. I started the mod by sanding the outer panel of the case. This took a good half hour with the orbital sander, and left my hand unusable afterwards. It revealed that the seemingly black case had underneath it: Black, White, Red, Black, and then the metal of the case. I sanded the entire thing smooth, and applied a few coats of spray primer (Pic. 4). Next came the front panel. One of the previous owners had taken to it harshly with a drill bit (Pic. 5), and it had the same paint disaster, but with another layer of white on top. I decided I was going to create an acrylic front for the front panel, gluing it to the tapered edge. This means I only have to worry about the appearance of the edges of the front panel. As far as front I/O, I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. It got the same sand, primer, and wait treatment as the main panel. I went to my spray paint shelf to find that I have the colors black, white, red, blue, gray primer, and gold. I didn't want to do black or white, to avoid the colors that the case originally comes in. I decided against red, as that doesn't match my room. I decided for blue, as Gold is too tacky, and the gray primer is too matte. For the front panel, I chose a white enamel, and it turned out quite glossy and nice looking. Once assembled with the rest of the case, it looks good. My next mods are going to be a custom acrylic piece to cover the carnage of the front panel, a side panel window, white internal lighting, and a few internal mods I haven't quite figured out so I won't mention here just in case. That's all there is for now, I'll post updates as they happen.
  16. Hi all I'm just just doing some initial planning on some ideas for a Corsair 760t case mod. I would love inputs and ideas that would fit in this build or what you would like to see built in it. So far very simpel modding of a 760t case. All images is just photoshop edits of existing immages of the case. Original front: Modded front: Original top: Modded top: Original side: Modded side: Looking forward to read any input /hugs Rakior
  17. UPDATE: The project is complete! See my final photos below thanks for following everyone! Till next time! ============================================================================================================================================================================================ [COMPLETE] Howdy! Well, here's my first build log on the LTT forums have been on other forums but figured I'd post here as well [COMPLETE] The title says it, this is Project Adamantium. The inspiration came about because I wanted to do a silver/black build in order to be color neutral so that my RGB Led's would compliment the build no matter what I decided to set them to. Adamantium I chose because it sounds cool and is silver (For those that don't know, it's the metal that Wolverine's 'claws' are made out of). To start out here is a parts list of what will be in this build. Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro M AcrylicCPU: i7-6800kGPU: GTX 1080 FE (OC = 2126mhz)Mobo: MSI X99 Gaming Pro CarbonRAM: 32GB Corsair Dominator PlatinumPSU: EVGA Supernova 1000 G2SSD: 500GB Samsung 850 EVOSSD: 480GB OCZ TR150 Watercooling Parts going in this build:EK-Supremacy EvoEK-FC1080 GTXEK-CoolStream SE 240 (Slim Dual)EK-CoolStream SE 360 (Slim Triple)EK-AF Angled 45° G1/4 NickelEK-AF Angled 90° G1/4 ( 1 black and 2 nickel)EK-AF Extender Rotary M-M G1/4 - BlackEK-AF Ball Valve (10mm) G1/4 - BlackBitspower G 1/4" Matte Black Rotary 90 Degree IG 1/4" Adapter (is a more stiff rotary fitting) PrimoChill RevolverSX Silver fittings (12 Pieces) PrimoChill 1/2" PETG tubing Lighting will be handled by NZXT's Hue+ I'll be back shortly with parts photos ============================================================================================================================================================================================ [FINAL PHOTOS]
  18. I am getting custom work done for my Corsair 760t case, what I am getting added is a psu shroud which is non existent on the case in the first place. I am just gonna place the measurements and the design I chose for it just in case if anyone had the same idea but does not have the time to work on measurements. Enjoy Modeled by me in Cinema 4D, it has a grommet added on the top for the front IO connectors as well. Goodluck modders
  19. I'm planning on painting the interior of the EVOLV TG and the IO shroud and PCH heatsink on the Maximus IX Hero. I've seen people paint the whole interior of the Enthoo EVOLV on PCPartPicker but was wondering how to do it and if I would need to break the rivets and re-rivet the interior. In the motherboard's case, I don't want to paint any PCI-e or RAM slots (not gonna pull a Linus,) and I don't want to paint any of the metal on the heatsinks. Painting just a section of the PCH bridge may be a tad tricky, so I also wanted a few tips for that as well.
  20. In preparation for the upcoming Ryzen launch I am building my first computer for myself rather than other people. I am looking at an orange and black theme but I was unable to find a good case that matched that theme. Enter: my first case mod! I have a couple touch ups to do along the top of the front bezel but otherwise I really like how this turned out. From here I plan to: -replace the red led's with orange -add some paint striping to the front/top -maybe add something to the side panels -actually make the system once Ryzen is realeased -clean my room (yes, I know it's a mess) What do you guys think?
  21. Stuxnet (case build)

    Intro To start things off this is my first ever case build and DIY project involving aluminium and possible other metals. As of this my techniques may not be correct and the tools I use may be incorrect. Saying all of this I expect to have a good finish and to achieve a few goals (for the case and computer to go in it). The first of these is a computer which blends into its surroundings and acts as the furniture. It will achieve this by being very clean (nothing fancy in the design). Next I want a computer which is as quiet as possible. This will be achieved by having minimal fans and minimal power draw (power efficient components). 3rd it has to be powerful. This computer when complete will be my daily driver and therefore needs to be able to perform as I require. The components are yet to be selected but may include a Zen CPU when released. The final requirement is for the case to cost as little money as possible. This does not mean it will skimp on quality but more means every purchase will be taken into account and carefully planned. I do not expect this case project (leading into the computer project) to go 100% smoothly but that is the fun of it all. It will take some time to complete but my plan is to have the case finished by the end of the summer and the computer finished at maximum in a year (if all goes to plan). The reason for this long time scale is I want to see what the Zen CPU's by AMD are like and as they are yet to be released I cannot currently see this. The next reason (and the bigger one) is I don't have the money. This will come slowly but currently I am raising money for a school in Africa which I am also helping in the building process and once this is finished I will be a student at uni and so will have next to no money. The project (plan) So here goes everything I have done so far. just so you know the current estimated cost is about £40. Project started - 24/6/2015 current project plan: Make a small form factor PC which is just as powerful as a full tower (the motherboard will be very important to add this ability). Possibly make into a tube otherwise make a small shell to go around the components. The computer should be able to fit full size graphics cards. Computer will be named Stuxnet after the computer worm which affected industrial programmable logic controllers in nuclear power plants (possible theme based around this). Colours will be white/grey, yellow and green. You may have noticed above I mentioned tube. This was from my original plan (yes I went through a lot of planning). I almost went through with a tube but what stopped me was either the price, strength or size. Starting with the price looking for metal tubes the right size would cost a fortune. I cannot remember the price but I do remember it was over £200 and would have to be shipped from America (from where I found it) and therefore following the resent Brexit it would be more now. Following this I started looking at products I could buy and take the tube from them. Metal bins looked promising but it proved very difficult to find one the correct high and diameter. I would have settled on one with a bigger diameter so I could get the high but the problem here was the metal used for the tube was thin and week. Not good for a computer case. So now with that scraped I started looking for an easy way to build a tube. For this I settled on a hexagon for the shape. The choice here was partially due to looking nice, no computer case as far as I could see used this shape and SketchUp which I used for modelling had this selected by default. A hexagon would be simple (just about) to make. I could make this with aluminium angles bent to shape and aluminium bars (later changed to steel). The planning for this was all done on ShetchUp and influenced by YouTube videos from a channel called DIYPerks. I guess this is also the time I settled on the case name (different to the computer name). This is Hive. The build build start time: 5/7/2016 (dd/mm/yyyy) materials used: aluminium angle (15mm x 15mm x 2500mm) Finally, onto the build! So now with the bulk of the planning out the way (more will be changed during the build I'm sure) it’s time to start building. I started by going to my local DIY store to pick up the aluminium bars and angles. The angles were fine and felt strong. The bars on the other hand were very week and I feel with my design these would bend. My design has all the weight being suspended from the top (the centre of mass will be in the middle of the computer (ish). I purchased the angles but left the bars. Once home I could start cutting and bending the aluminium angle into shape. I chose to go slightly bigger than my model so I would have a better time measuring and more room to play with. If you are yet to notice, the aluminium angles will be the top and bottom of the case along with a few supports here and there. The bars on the other hand will be the supports connecting the top and bottom of the case together. These therefore have to be strong which the aluminium is not. Fixing this problem can be completed with a few solutions. First the aluminium could be changed to steel. This is strong enough but will cost slightly more (by a few pounds). Next aluminium angles could be used which are strong and would cost around the same as the bars. Finally, long screw threaded circular bars could be used with adapters. This is likely to cost a lot less but would take away from the aesthetics inside the case. As of yet this decision is still being made but I am weighing more to the steel bars. I started the build with the top and bottom hexagons. These were made with the aluminium angles. On the model these are shown as just over 108mm long per side. I upped this to 110mm per side for the real thing. This will have a couple of reactions. The first and most important being more room to play with. This will best help with the motherboard which would have about 2mm room either side of it before it hit the case. Now it will have about 8mm each side. The next reaction is negative being more material is needed. I don’t know about the cost increase yet but it should not be much as I did not increase the size by much. Any other reactions are undetermined so far. So back to the case. The aluminium angle had slides removed from one side. Each of these are in the corners of the case and are 60 degrees slices. Once cut identically (as close as I could get) the angle could be bent into shape. I don’t have any special tools for this so I clamped down the metal and used my hands. On the first attempt I realized I was 5 degrees out on all corners. This was a quick fix. The bending went successfully with the only drawback being a slight misalignment on both the top and bottom. This will be fixed later. That is it for this update. I will add more in the near future.
  22. I have an old Cooler Master 690 USB 2.0 version and i want to change the front panel I/O. My plan is to cut the PCB, marked in red in the attached images. Cutting out the estata and USB 2.0 connectors and leaving the Audio and Mic connectors intact. I will use a USB 3.0 internal header to front panel extension after after the pcb and fixing it to the case. Is it possible to cut the PCB keeping only Audio and Mic connectors intact. Will it work after i do so? Thank You
  23. Sup folks, I am planning my new build "A Faster Horse". It's a Ford Mustang themed build, so I bought some Mustang fender emblems to put on the case, however II'm not quite sure yet where to put them. Either a horse running to the right on the sidepanel, or a horse running to the left on the front. I would like to maintain a clean look, so both might be a bit much. Anyway, what do you think looks best? Let me know! Regards, TJ Images:
  24. Hi guys, Alex here back with another build log! I think it's been a while since I've been on the forums now, a lot of stuff has been happening! I'm very happy however to bring you guys another build log with the very exclusive IN WIN D-Frame 2.0 NVIDIA Edition chassis! I am super excited to be working on this build as I find this chassis absolutely stunning! I'm not sure if there are many NVIDIA edition versions of this case around at the moment, I definitely know that this is the only one in Australia which makes it a huge privilege so I hope I can do it justice with a nice build in it! The mods are not gonna be anything too crazy as I really don't want to change much on such a stunning case nor do I want to paint or drill into it! I will be creating some custom panels from acrylic and adding some nice vinyl effects as people that follow my work have come to expect from my builds! I'm calling this one IN WIN DUKE, simply because the frame resembles the inner chassis of a Ducati motorcycle so nice and easy with the name there! It's an honour again to be able to do this and have the opportunity to work with such amazing companies. The sponsors on this build are IN WIN, NVIDIA, ASUS, Western Digital, AVEXIR, Bitspower, CableMod and for the first time ever for one of my builds, INTEL, with a very unexpected package as you will from the specs below! You can find more information about the respective vendors in the links below and follow their channels if you wish: Intel - https://www.facebook.com/intelaustralia NVIDIA - https://www.facebook.com/NvidiaANZ ASUS - https://www.facebook.com/asusaustralia IN WIN - https://www.facebook.com/INWINANZ Western Digital - https://www.facebook.com/WDAustralia AVEXIR - https://www.facebook.com/AVEXIR Bitspower - https://www.facebook.com/Bitspower CableMod - https://www.facebook.com/CableMod Hope you guys enjoy this one! SPECS: Case – IN WIN D-Frame 2.0 NVIDIA Edition Motherboard – ASUS X99 Deluxe II CPU – Intel Core i7 6950X Memory – 8 x 4GB AVEXIR Core White & Green LED DDR4 GPU – 2x NVIDIA GTX 1080 Founders Edition SLI - NVIDIA 3-Slot High Bandwidth Bridge SSD – 120GB AVEXIR S100 Green LED HDD - 4TB Western Digital Red Pro PSU – In Win S-III 1065W Cables & LEDs - CableMod Radiators – 360mm Bitspower Leviathan Extreme, 2 x 120mm Bitspower Leviathan Slim Fans – 5 x In Win Aurora 120mm fans Pump – Bitspower DDC Plus with Bitspower Premium DDC Mod Top Reservoir – 2 x Bitspower Hexagon Reservoirs Fittings – Various Bitspower Black Sparkle Fittings Tubing – Bitspower Crystal Link 16mm PETG CPU/MB Block – Bitspower AIX99D Full Cover Water Block And without any further delays, here's a good look at the case and fans that arrived from IN WIN! Thanks for checking it out guys and stay tuned for more! Cheers, Alex
  25. Hey guys! It's been a while and my craving to cut aluminum and acrylic had reached its limits! I have an upcoming case mod project for EVGA's "Gear Up with EVGA" program. EVGA was kind enough to support this project of mine with their awesome components. I will call this project "Dark DragonBlade" and this project will be based on the character of the game "Overwatch", Genji. I just started drawing up a concept for the project just last week and this might take a while. I need to get some office stuff/work out of my way before I can go full blast on this project so please bear with me. Here's a quick sketch that I made for the front panel. I will be modding a Cooler Master MasterCase Pro 5 for this project. The design is just a week old so it might still change (hopefully not). The color scheme for this project will be black/green mainly because that's my favorite color combination. Genji is the samurai character on the Overwatch game and he has white/silver/green color scheme on him. Since I am using black/green color scheme, I might just called this project "Dark Samurai". I am not sure yet about the name but "Dark Samurai" sounds good. For now. EVGA was quick to send their awesome PC components to me. It only took em 2 days (I live in Canada)! EVGA and Thermaltake will be my sponsors for this project. EVGA's 1000G Power supply looks solid and sexy as hell! They have sent me their Super clocked EVGA DDR4 Memory modules too. Evga X99 Classified motherboard. This is one hell of a sexy looking motherboard. This part though, since I am going with black/green theme, I will paint this up to matte black or green. Can't decide yet but will definitely change the color of this to go with the theme. And this guy, when I opened up the box last week, seeing this beast made my jaw dropped on the floor! EVGA GTX 980 Ti Classified! Even the packaging is just awesome. Here is the case that will be murdered on this project. CoolerMaster MasterCase Pro 5. I apologize for the smudges of fingerprints around the case. In the next week or two, I will keep on pushing on completing the sketch/concept for this project. Hopefully I can finish some deadlines and other stuff back at work so I can start wildly cutting up acrylic sheets and aluminum for this project. I apologize for the quality of photo, I am still working on my photography skills which obviously needs A LOT of work. Well, that's it for me right now, will put up updates as soon as I can. Wish me luck!
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