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This one is a doozy, so get ready. I recently got myself a used CPU, motherboard, and RAM combo. An i5-9400f, MSI B365M Mortar, and some generic SK Hynix 2x8GB RAM sticks to be specific. I assembled everything with my GPU, and power supply, pressed the power button, and got nothing. No spinning fans on the PC or the power supply; even the EZ Debug lights wouldn't light up to indicate anything, Even after completely baring the motherboard of all components, I couldn't get any sign of life. After more troubleshooting I realized that the CPU had an SMD capacitor missing from the underside of it, but from what I've heard, that shouldn't be a massive issue and the PC should still post. After some fiddling around, I found a capacitor around my building area, but it wasn't from the CPU, but the motherboard, the underside of the chipset to be specific. I'm not sure about the importance of that capacitor, but there might be some link with the PC not responding at all. I tried some weird stuff like putting the CPU 24-pin in and then shorting the pins used to turn the PSU on, which finally gave some life to the PC (never shorted the power switch of the mobo) when all the fans and lights started running, but I still wouldn't get a display, and the EZ debug CPU LED would stay at a stable Red color. This behavior persists whenever I turn on the PSU, without touching the PC power switch. After that, I've tried everything including clearing and removing CMOS, reseating CPU, RAM, GPU, power cables to no update on the situation. The LED stays Red and I get no display. I have no clue what to do now, but my guess is that either the CPU is dead or the motherboard, the latter making more sense. I've attached some pictures of the broken capacitor spaces I mentioned. Any type of help would be appreciated.

Hello, I recently got a broken asRock Z170 Gaming-itx/ac motherboard that had a bunch of pins from the CPU socket broken or were bent. So I decided to replace the CPU socket to fix the motherboard, but when I took off the socket, the capacitor at the very top left corner of the capacitor was taken off during the process. Despite looking for it for a while I just couldn't find it, so I began to wonder where I could one of those capacitors and which one to buy so that I could fix the motherboard?

So for my graduation i have to do a presentation over a subject i like in physics and the only one i like is the one talking about capacitors. VRMs are made of capacitors; so i decided to make my essay on them, but i want to know what is the reason you need good VRMs to get to higher voltages, like what happens to the capacitors that leads to system instability ?

I have these capacitors(marked by red boxes in the picture) right next to the gpu on my asus mother board with some mystery sticky paste that was between the capacitor and the heat sink.the purpose of this sticky paste seemed to be the same that of a thermal paste on a processor.i have removed most of it by mistake and dont know what kind of paste should i put on there to replace it because it feels and looks much different than a regular thermal paste

Hello, Some years ago I bought an EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 P2 for a super cheap price but the seller did not give me any information about its function. I plugged it in but I received no power from it so I stored it for some years. A few weeks ago I realized that I could just sell it for parts since the demand for high wattage power supplies was high. Instead I changed my mind and realized that I could just fix it instead and risk taking it apart. When I took it apart I saw what seemed to be a missing SMD capacitor. I looked at some pictures of what a working one would look like and it did have that capacitor that was missing on my broken PSU. This is the only thing that I found wrong of the PSU. The only problem is which capacitor I should get to solder it back on? Zoomed in Broken PSU PCB(Missing capacitor C303D) Zoomed Out Broken PSU PCB(Missing capacitor Middle Right of Image) Working PSU PCB(Flipped, C303D capacitor)

I'm just curious if these little capacitors can be found on a site like Mouser, or if I have to go by some shady reseller on eBay (since these little gold ones are only found on there or AliExpress). Nothing's wrong with my board, just that I accidentally slightly bent one (then bent it back) and am worried about it just snapping off, even if I didn't do anything more to it. They seem to be around 5-6mm in height and diametre, and rated at 100 microfarads and 16 volts.

hey guys im going to buy a capacitor, can you recommend me which would i buy and what will i do after install it. my broken capacitor is MIL 270/16 EKA19. I don't know what is that meaning please help guys thanks

While cleaning my gpu I knocked off multiple capacitors near the gpu die. All the pads are intact and I even have on of the capacitors in a bag. How can I find out what capacitor it was?

Hi guys, I was cleaning my 1080 and installing new thermal pads when I accidently broke off a capacitor during disassembly. My question is, does anyone have experience resoldering SMD capacitors on GPUs and if so what solder do you use and what type of hot tweezers work best (required wattage)? In the picture I've attached you can see there is some copper showing so I think my best bet would be to remove the older solder with copper wicking, tin the copper contacts and then resolder the capacitor. Any advice for resoldering SMD components would be appreciated.

okay so thank you ltt family for helping me always. >do i need capacitors for this nvme to pcie x4 adapter?? the onewhich doesnt have capacitor is pretty cheap. i just want it to work. > they say that i will lose data if sudden power loss happens and i dont have this capacitor on the adapter:< >is that true? if true then will it only wipe the cached data in power loss or will it also damage other family photos saved on my ssd:< (shutdown of pc cuzipower outage,rght?) I will be careful and turn off myy pc after saving important files to clearout the cache. but will it still damage my data in the ssd after i turn it back on and theres powerloss? :< the adapter without capacitor :https://www.daraz.pk/products/i276121086-s1491521319.html?urlFlag=true&mp=1 another adapter without the capacitor : https://www.daraz.pk/products/i251818994-s1469180142.html?urlFlag=true&mp=1 the adapter with the evil capacitor : https://www.daraz.pk/products/pcie-m2-nvme-m2-pci-32gb-pci-e-x4816-m-b-ssd-i170690218-s1340838272.html?spm=a2a0e.searchlist.list.1.525560ffJD6J9t&search=1 And my second question please: will these adapters work perfectly:< what if they damage my ssd:< i have 3770 based pc.. ill use it for storage. im sure it will work like that right?? i gave two adapter optios cuz i have x1 version right now .and i ordered the x4 one right now... im just wondering if they are safe for the stored data///give some tecktips too please. thank u so much please dont mind my soo many questions. its just ive been reachingout in redditand they delete my posts. maybe reddit is only for showing off ur stuff not getting help.WHICH is what linus exels at. giving help to all of us. im so thankful to him for makin this forum..... kale

Ryzen 7 3700x Asus rog strix b450f gaming Ddr4 tridentz rgb 16g 3600mhz evga rtx 2070 super Corsair 750w gold WD m.2 1tb seagate hdd 1tb Windows 10 64 just upgraded from ryzen 7 2700x and Corsair vengeance 16g 3200mhz I updated my bios properly and all my drivers are up to date. when I turn my pc on it turns on and all the fans go from 0-100 and my lights turn on but it just sits there doing nothing blasting with an amber light on the motherboard. To get it to work I turn it off and flip the switch on the psu. The second attempt turning on after the switch off and everything turns on the fans blast for about 5 seconds then the amber light goes red then back to amber then red to amber to white then green then it posts. I’ve checked all my connections and they’re good. Me and my friends are all pretty stumped. I even tried to update the bios again and it didn’t work. This cycle happens every time I boot up my pc. Does anyone have any advice or recommendations to test what I can do to determine what’s wrong update: took out all usb devices and took my mouse and tested each USB port on motherboard and one seemed to be causing the problem as it replicates the issue consistently. So plugged everything in avoiding bad port and it caused the issue again once everything was plugged in again.

So I am on a university solar car team and some of our old (2007) workstations have finally begun dying from the capacitor plague. Specs: Intel Core 2 Extreme Nvidia Quadro FX3500 (256 Mb of onboard memory) 4GB DDR2 Custom Dell stuff ... As you can imagine it is difficult to do 3D rendering and Inventor work during the best of times on these ancient rigs and once they start sporadically shutting down every 20 minutes or so it is near impossible to get anything done. Does anyone have any advice for this in terms of what to watch out for? I've already pulled most of the caps and am waiting on a Digi-Key order before I finish the rest of them. Is anyone interested in me logging the experience? I'm considering making a video since there are not may good ones out there showcasing this relatively cheap repair.

So on an Intel motherboard that I have (Intel Spl500 socket J) board, one of the capacitors has been dented when I brought it home in a suitcase. The capacitor was a 1200 μf, 12 volt. I have bought from Radio-Shack a 1000 μf 35WVDC capacitor and a 2200 μf 35WVDC as replacements. Could I possibly use one of them as a replacement capacitor for the dented one? Also can you wrap the leads in electrical tape because sadly they are axial ones. Thanks! (Photo from Tom's Hardware, edited my yours truly.)

Hello all, this is my first post here. I have a BenQ E2200HD monitor that works for a moment but then goes dark. When I turn it off and on again it works for 5 seconds before going dark again. After some research I believe this generally means it has a faulty capacitor so I took it apart. However, I don't see any bulging or leaking ones, just a few that are crooked. I made a few photos that I will add to this post in the hopes that maybe one of you can spot the problem. Thanks in advance.

I was just wondering why two of the same model cpu have different electrical components on it like these two i7-4770's for example: The top one says Malay, the bottom one says Costa Rica. Thanks for any help.

I thought I'd share a short tale today about fixing a dead graphics card! A few months ago, I bought a box of graphics card for the sole purpose of getting an EVGA GTX 295 for a display model (what can I say? It's a neat looking, beefy dual-GPU card and I thought it would be neat to display). Turns out that all four of the cards included in the box were dead. While I didn't really need any of them to work, it was kind of a bummer that I wouldn't get a conveniently usable GPU out of the deal... UNTIL TODAY! Yesterday I took another look at one of the dead GPUs, an XFX 8600GT 256MB, and I noticed that the a number of capacitors had blown. With the hope that the capacitors were the only issue, I scheduled a trip to a local electronic component store, Lee's Electronics in Vancouver, purchased a number of replacement capacitors and attempted to replace the bad ol' capacitors with some brand spankin' new ones. For the people who might be contemplating doing something like this, it's important to note two things about replacing capacitors, and the person replacing them: 1) Capacitors can be replaced with another capacitor as long as the capacitance (measured in micro-Farads or uF) is an identical amount, and the rated voltage of the new capacitor is equal to OR greater than the old capacitor. While people say you CAN use a higher capacitance in some cases, it depends on what the capacitor is being used for exactly, so for someone (like me) who is not sure, using an identical value is the safest option. 2) I am pretty amateur/bad at soldering, and even I managed to remove and replace the bad capacitors (though perhaps not... perfectly. More on that shortly.) While I initially struggled to get the first capacitor out of the spot it was soldered into, I eventually managed to get a technique down of heating up the solder that was holding the capacitor legs in place while holding and gently rocking the capacitor back and forth until the legs slid out of the holes they were pushed into. The first try must have taken me a whole 5-10 minutes just to take out the capacitor, not to mention another 5 minutes of trying to seat a new one in place. Eventually though, I figured out a solid methodology: 1) Heat up the solder attached to the legs from the backside of the graphics card 2) Grab the capacitor on the front side of the card and rock it back and forth, pulling gently on it to pull the legs through the holes on the PCB. 3) After pulling out the old capacitor, take the replacement one and trim the legs down to a more manageable size (I trimmed them down from 3-ish centimetres to about 0.5 centimetres) 4) If there's leftover solder in the holes where the old capacitor legs used to be, heat the solder up and push the legs of the new capacitor through (making sure the positive and negative ends of the capacitor are in the right spots). You may need to rock the capacitor back and forth as you push the legs through, heating the solder to make sure it doesn't cause the legs to stick. 5) Once you push the capacitors all the way through, apply flux to the metal legs sticking through the PCB. I used a flux pen that I also bought at Lee's Electronics. 6) Finally, apply some solder the capacitor legs to secure them to the graphics card PCB. Done! I have a bit of a confession to make. I mentioned earlier that I didn't quite perfectly perform the capacitor replacement, and that's because I accidentally burnt the tip of my finger when I brushed it against my very-hot soldering iron. That, uh, sucked. But! Did it work? Was there a point to spending $5 in capacitors, burning the tip of my finger and possibly inhaling some maybe-not-good-for-me-fumes because I'm not the smartest cookie in terms of workbench placement? The answer is Yes! The once-dead 8600GT has risen once again to deliver pixels anew, booting into the BIOS and Windows without breaking a sweat! So, that's it! Hope you enjoyed the brief story/guide of a dumb-ass electronics amateur fixing a graphics card with blown capacitors! Hopefully this is useful to others who might be thinking about trying this on one of their dead graphics cards, or at the very least they find it mildly amusing!

I need help, I sold my old graphics card on Ebay and the buyer is saying it arrived damaged. The only problem is a bent capacitor, of which I think it will still work AND/OR they could just gently bend it back. It seems like the buyer is trying to make excuses to keep both the card and get their money back.Message from buyer:"When the package arrived, by the looks of the box I knew I was gonna need to start taking pictures of the damage. First off the box was smashed and had a hole in it. Then when I opened the box one of the screws from the i/o shield fell out of the box as I pulled the card out. I cant believe it didn t fall out of the hole. Right away after I got the card out of the static bag I noticed smashed capacitors... The only thing protecting the card was, 3 out of 5 bubbles filled with air and a piece of foam. VERY poorly packed!!! Not only that, I feel like this card wasn t very well taken care of. All of the i/o screws were loose and the one that connects it to the card is missing. The backplate for the water cooler is missing a spacer underneath it on one of the screws. And to top it all off the tubes on the water cooler were not routed right and it gets in the way of one of the power ports, making it impossible to plug power into the card without crimping the tube. The tube is basicly ruined, and that plus the broken capacitor make me afraid to even put this card in my computer to test it. What a mess....."I packaged the card with my own anti static bag and both foam and air bags, the box was also in pristine condition when I shipped it, and I have photos of the card in working order in my case, with plugs and all. I also have photos of the card with no bent capacitors before shipping. He mentions a screw which could just be screwed back, a missing plastic spacer (was always like that has no effect on the card whatsoever), and tubing that is apparently "wrong". The way the tubing is physically how it LITERALLY is designed, there is no other way they can go, it sounds very scammy how he is coming up with this stuff. It's also very suspicious as to how that one capacitor was bent, despite it not having anything that could have come in contact during shipping, the buyer may have simply bent it a bit themselves. photos from buyer: http://imgur.com/a/qNOrWphoto of the card plugged in perfectly fine and working before selling: http://imgur.com/a/0IBl2

I have a new EVGA Supernova 850 P2 PSU and i'm planning to get a CableMod kit for it, but i would like to know if these modded cables comes with capacitors built-in like the OEM ones and if these caps are of a good quality!thanks!

My pc is blue screening with stop code critical process died, is this a gpu issue as I notice a capacitor may be missing. Please help me!! Do I need a new gpu

Last night, I took my graphics card out to test my iGPU for fun and noticed what appear to be three blown SMD capacitors (I think that's what they are) on the GPU's PCB. This surprised me because I have not noticed any odd behavior with my graphics nor did I ever hear/smell a pop or burn in my computer. I've included a imgur album that shows a few picture of what I am talking about. You can see that one of them has a melted appearance on the side while the other two have a hole in the top. There is also some dark black or gray residue around these components as well. My system is air cooled and runs F@H 24/7 with about 7-8 hours of gaming per week. I've never seen my GPU get hotter than about 65 degrees C. I do not overclock my GPU; although, I have played with the overclock settings in the past (only for a few seconds at a time due to artifacting when overclocking, so I gave up). The only potential cause I can think of is that I used to get power surges quite often that would hard shut down my computers (they were on a surge protector though) until about a year ago when I finally got a UPS. My GPU is outside of warranty by about three months. So, my questions are these: 1. Is this a cause for concern? Could it cause damage to other components? I have not noticed any ill effects, and I have no idea how long it's been like this. 2. What could have caused this? 3. Has anyone here experienced this before? System specs: GPU: Asus DirectCUII GTX 760 (default clock speed [factory overclocked to 1072 MHz]) CPU: Core i7 3770K overclocked at 4.2 GHz with Hyper T4 heatsink PSU: ThermalTake SP-850M (older one seen here: http://www.hardocp.com/article/2014/06/16/thermaltake_smart_sp850m_850w_power_supply_review/) Mobo: Asus P8Z77-V LK PICTURES! http://imgur.com/a/J37Vh Thanks for any help you can provide! EDIT: Just to clarify, there are 3 of them that look damaged. In my Imgur album, the first four photos are of the same one. Make sure to take a look at the last two pics to see the other ones.

for some context, i recently bought 3 broken threadripper motherboards with the hope that i could repair them and use one in a project. one of the boards is badly damaged and i am intending to use as a donor board. the board in the pic isnt as bad. i have spent about an hour straitening bent pins, and now the only thing i can see wrong is the missing item, which i belive is a capacitor. each of them is about 2-3mm long. i have looked into micro soldering and think it would be possible to de-solder a cap from the donor board and put it on the board which is in better shape. problem is im a complete noob and have very little electrical knowledge and 0 micro soldering experience. I would like to know if the cap is even necessary, as im aware sometimes extra components are used for redundancy. if i do need to fix it, would this tool be enough(TS100): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MDTO6X7/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=rossmanngroup-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B01MDTO6X7&linkId=2d7c13ceaf8725fb1aadce13d12a16c3 i saw that Louis Rossman recommended it, and it is fairly inexpensive compared to the alternatives. I would also be interested to hear about solder/flux recommendations for this project, as its another area i know very little about. any info, advice, recommendations or tips would be really helpful to me. thank you for reading.

Hey! I'm trying to fix my tv, and im quite new at this. I Have some education on it, but no real experience. I'm preety sure the problem is a fried capacitor, and now I wonder what kind it is so I can buy a new one to solder on. The text under it is C1721 Sorry in advance if this is the wrong thread. TLDR; Read title, look at picture.

Hi, I bought a Corsair AX1500i for a silent PC build as I needed a bit more power from my 520W Seasonic fanless PSU. I currently briefly spike at around 650W but realistically max out at around 500W sustained load with a 9900K and 1080Ti. I noticed the fan of the AX1500i spins up very loud around 2000rpm for a couple seconds before turning off which is very annoying. I realize there is no way to turn this off and tried to disconnect the fan but at that point the system wouldn't boot. I wanted to know what my options are, currently I have stress tested the PSU and cannot get the fan to spin no matter what so I don't really need one but it won't turn on without one as it seems to be part of the power on test. I have researched this whole issue and there is not much online on it, I did hear the RM1000 and other power supplies do not have this issue. It seems to be a 4 pin 140mm pwm fan with fluid bearings from Corsair but the size is much smaller than a regular 4 pin socket, I was wondering if I could somehow limit the max speed to 500rpm or so using a potentiometer or resistor? I am not aware of any pwm fams with an inaudible max speed to replace it with?

Hi, I have Msi z370 tomahawk And I tried to install CD ROM, but for some reason my MB started smoking and some capacitor started glowing. (He is located under lowest PCI-Express slot.) Is the MB dead? Sorry for the photo, bad lightning. Also I was manipulating with power supply.

I need to replace this capacitor on a circuit board but I can not read the color code. If someone could tell me what type of capacitor it was it would help.