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  1. I have an Old Canon Image Class MF3010 all in one Laser printer and Scanner. I use it maybe once a quarter. Lately it's been showing error code E202. Which points to issue in scanner. I tried replacing the scanner (CCD) cable but it didn't worked out. I don't want to invest any more money on it but on the same time I was looking if there's anyway I can just use to print documents rather than tossing the whole unit out. I had once wiped out the scanner head and it worked for few days. Since it shows error code for scanner it doesn't print either. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you
  2. Summary In an interview with Japanese newspaper Yomiuri Shimbun, Canon's chairman & CEO Fujio Mitarai stated that the company's development and production of flagship DSLRs will wound down "within a few years." Canon's current DSLR flagship, the EOS-1DX Mark III released in 2020, will be the last flagship DSLR model. Quotes There were some news publications like Y.M. Cinema and Photo Rumors interpreted Mitarai's words to mean that Canon has officially announced the end of all of their DSLR lines. Canon has responded that the scope of Mitarai's statement is only for their flagship DSLRs. It is expected that all production of their flagship DSLR to stop within a few years, although exact dates have not been confirmed. My thoughts This is very interesting now that Canon will officially move development and production towards mirrorless systems. It was known that mirrorless would take over and that the DSLR would die sometime. I'm excited for the future to see what new mirrorless systems Canon will come out with. Sources Y.M. Cinema PetaPixel
  3. Hi, I am curently looking into buying a Canon Full Frame Mirorless (probably RP or R). I have a question when it comes to the lens i should buy. Being on a restricted budget, i was thinking of going for the 24-105 F/4L for about 1000€ (1192 USD). But I saw on the same website the EF 24-105 F/4L for basically half the price... Is there a significant difference between the two. Or the EF+Adapter could be a very good budget friendly option for a trans-standard versatile zoom lens ? Thank you very much ! Have a nice day
  4. Hi, I need help with picking the bast camera for the money. I already have 2 Canon lenses, so it would be best to somehow use them. I would like to use it indoor and outdoor for shooting videos and photography. Also it would be nice feature if it was able to be used as webcam. Thanks, Dan
  5. I tried to disassemble the lcd of my canon eos 650d because the lcd was vignetting and wanted to take a better look at the unit before i order the parts online. I was able to remove the bottom screw just fine. However, the top screw seemed to 'melt like butter' with the turning of my screwdriver. It offered no grip / resistance from the get go and just got cam-ed out / stripped. I would appreciate on suggestions on how to get this screw out.
  6. Hello guys, im trying to install a Canon TS 3452 on an Ubuntu Laptop for a Customer. Im Absolutely new to Linux, so i dont have any Idea how to get that running. Dont know anything about Sudo or smth like this. This Printer only needs to be used through cable connection. Scanner is important too. Any Advice?
  7. I wanted to learn more about photography, and know more about the "professional" modes and really properly shoot great photos. Is the Canon EOS 4000D a good camera, does it have attachments that can help it become more... PRO? I already own it, so give me your opinion and some advice.
  8. All recommendations have been removed since they were outdated and incomplete.Thank you GDRRiley! Disclaimer: I don’t consider myself as a good photographer there is always room for improvement (Especially when you look what photos the pro's are able to pull off). This information is what I have gathered over a few years of experience. This post have been written because I know that I would have learned much faster if I had begun reading just a few short articles or posts and I want to help the person who is standing in the same situation as I did a few years ago. There have been written whole books on this topic and there is much more to learn than the technological aspect of photography, but I hope that this has at least helped one person to understand something that he/she didn't before. The examples are as of may 2020 A guide to Digital Photography and Cameras I wan't to preface this saying that this is not a video guide, though some of the information might be useful. I have personally owned a few cameras over the years. Canon 1Dx, (5D mark II Very shortly) and now own a Canon 5Ds, M50, gopro and lots of dji film drones (i will make a separate thread with those if people want it), all that with a nice supply of lenses (i can also make separate guide to those). So it's quite obvious that i have very little experience with other camera brands like Nikon or Sony. I base my recommendations in this topic on my own research and experience with cameras. I will from the start recommend one very simple and quick step, and that is to do your own research in advance of buying cameras and a lot of it. This post is for people to make their own informed decisions, i’m not taking any responsibility for any choices made by others. I would also like to come with a classic saying which is “it’s not the camera that’s important, but the person behind it” I think this is very true and gear isn’t everything. This video by Peter Mckinnon an absolutely great youtuber really shows it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N8LOoQxSi8M&t=318s. I will state that my experience mainly comes from nature and wildlife photography I have limited experience shooting street photography. I might have a bias especially towards how important good autofocus is since it's the thing that have let me down the most times in wildlife photography and is really important for me. Mirrorless vs DSLR Pros: Right now mirror less cameras are very tempting, and for good reason, they are generally speaking lighter. They also have electronic viewfinders which i see as a major plus especially as a beginner, since you can see the exposure. The flange distance (the distance between lens and sensor) is smaller since there is no mirror between lens and sensor, this means you can adapt older lenses to the mirror less camera like the canon ef to rf adapter or ef to Sony-e. So now you have several series of lenses you can use on your cameras. (Nikon is a bit special since autofocus won’t work on all of their old lenses with their Nikon-f to ftz adapter because some of them requires an internal AF motor) you can’t adapt the other way round so you can’t adapt a canon rf lens to a canon ef mounted camera because of the flange distance it was designed to use. This means that you have the best of both worlds, there are also other pros to shorter flange distance that are very technical and that I won't dive into in this post. Cons: But the downsides are also major, like awful battery performance in some cases 1/5 of a dslr equivalent and slow (but more precise so better for very low aperture lenses) auto focus, that's just how contrast autofocus is right now, this can be a pro or a con, but newers models of mirrorless cameras use both phase detect and contrast so you both hit the focus right on and have the speed of the phase detect. While that is said some older dslr’s also use contrast autofocus so a good amount of research is recommended in advance. Conclusion: Mirrorless is definitely the future so if you have the opportunity to go mirrorless it's sometimes a better start. With that said there are still fantastic dslr cameras out there and with the different lens adapters you can easily upgrade down the line. With newer mirrorless cameras they also have smart integration some cameras like the sony A7R III have the ability to track the eye of a bird and such. This is very useful especially for a person like me that likes wildlife photography. ISO: Very simply explained ISO is essentially a setting that can brighten up your photo. The higher the value the more sensitive your sensor becomes to light. Therefore it gets brighter this comes with a catch: the higher the ISO value the more noise there is in the picture (the less quality there is), so you should always have the lowest ISO possible with reasonable shutter speeds. If you have you'r ISO set at 100 your picture will get double as bright if you set your ISO to 200 and 4 times as bright if you set it to 400 ISO. I would generally try to have my ISO as low as possible while getting the sharpest pictures, it’s hard sometimes getting 1/250s shutter speeds at 100 ISO, and that’s the point where I crank it up. So ISO performance is a crucial part of getting a new camera, generally newer cameras have good ISO performance. Auto focus: Auto focus is a really important part of a camera and can mean the difference between you getting a photo or not. There are many types of auto focus, but a good rule of thumb is that older mirrorless cameras have very slow auto focus, older DSLRs are a bit more forgiving in this topic, but auto focus in general is essential since it can even mess up photos that are still. Mirror less cameras use contrast autofocus which moves the focus point back and forth until it finds the right focus point with the most contrast, thus it's more accurate but slower, the newer mirrorless cameras combine contrast and the phase detect autofocus we know from dslr's so they have the best of both worlds(Autofocus capability varies from camera to camera so research it thoroughly before getting a new camera). The main advantage to phase detect is that it's generally considered to be faster than contrast autofocus, but less accurate, so that's the trade off between the two. I would say though that modern phase detect autofocus is very accurate and I have no problem relying on it. face detect and eye autofocus has also been increasingly more accurate in recent years especially Sony have been known for their incredible autofocus. Sensor sizes: There is a lot of sensor sizes out there and this is an essential part of choosing your camera. Sensor size determines a lot in your camera and the sensor size also effectively determines the crop factor (How much of the image you can see). There is a lot of disadvantages and advantages to different sensor sizes and i will go through some of them now. If we have two cameras with the same amount of megapixels in the let's say 20. The bigger the sensor is the bigger the pixels on the sensor are. This essentially means that the individual pixels on the big sensor can absorb and therefore detect more light improving low light performance. The larger pixels also creates less noise which boils down to less noise at higher ISO's which means that you can turn your ISO higher up and shoot pictures in darker situations (This is extremely dependent on the camera you buy, but this is just in general). The smaller the sensor is, the bigger the crop factor is. You essentially see less of the image, you can compare it to zooming with a lens. so if you have an Canon aps-c sized sensor you can multiply your lens’s focal length by 1.6x (nikon 1.5x) and a micro 4/3 you can multiply it by 2x. Though it's not really the same because you will have the same background blur on a 400mm f/2.8 if it's on fullframe camera or a aps-c camera. On the aps-c camera you just see less of the overall picture, so sometimes background blurring can be a problem. Most common sensor sizes: 2/3" (not to be confused with 1/2.3" or 1/3.2") The 2/3" form factor is one typically found in gopros and in some mobile phones. This is rarely used in camera bodies and generally not a sensor size I would recommend for still shooting, but for video work I will say it's decent and I like the video quality of my gopro hero 6. Micro 4/3" Is a very popular sensor size for video work. I have heard many good things about this sensor size and I will recommend it for video capturing. Like the GH5 from panasonic. I will on the other hand not recommend it for still shooting. It is definitely possible to do so, but I would recommend bigger sensor sizes. This sensor type has a 2x crop factor so a 100mm lens will become a 200mm on a 4/3" sensor size camera. APS-C This sensor size is extremely popular and if you go down to a camera store, chances are that the camera body you are looking at probably has an aps-c sensor in it. This sensor size is very versatile, but generally aimed towards beginners or people who wants a little more range with their cameras for example if you are a wildlife photographer you can get away with using cheaper telescopic lenses because the crop factor here is on a canon sized sensor 1.6x (nikon 1.5x)so a 100mm lens becomes a 160mm (nikon 150mm) lens. Fullframe/35mm film This sensor type is for the enthusiast and pro. It's been the go to choice for professionals for many years. These sensors are used in high end camera bodies and are not beginner sensors. What I mean by that is how full frame sensors amplify your small mistakes like pictures that are not in focus and sharpness. I will only recommend a somewhat experienced photographer to buy full frame cameras. Lenses for these cameras are also in general more expensive, so it's the more expensive, but better option overall. Full frame sensors have a 1x crop factor so a 100mm lens is a 100mm lens on a full frame camera. Medium Format While this format differentiates in size a person who would buy a digital camera with a medium format sensor, should know more about photography than me (don’t know if that says much). These are only used in cameras that are made for the professionals, that both need the insane amount of megapixels they are capable of, but also the color depth. These are only for professionals and not anything I would ever recommend for a beginner. It's like an amplified full frame sensor it has all the benefits, but also all the cons, and are specialized equipment. It’s crop factor varies because of the varying sizes of medium format sensors. Lenses: Lenses are hard to choose and I will also make my recommendations very short on modern lenses, but don’t look at the overall score though that says very little about the lens, look at the individual scores instead. I’m recommending lenses that and to the point. There are many things to look out for in a lens and that’s for good reason. I recommend visiting dxomark.com and look at their benchmarks. The things i usually look for the most is sharpness and vignetting, if you buy older lenses, watch out for distortion and chromatic aberration which are less of a problem would personally have interest in keeping for the future. Lens sharpness and lens quality: A crucial step in choosing lenses is lens sharpness. I use DXOmark and Thedigitalpicture to determine lens sharpness. Sharpness is how good the lens reproduces the picture on the sensor of your camera. If you have a 42 megapixel camera, but a bad lens you might only have a resolution of 20 megapixels in some cases even worse. This adds a whole new dimension to lens choices and a crucial step that is easily overlooked while being crucial for mage quality. DXOmark tests sharpness on lenses so I recommend to look on their website for comparisons. Another really important aspect though not as important in my opinion since they are often correlated is lens aberrations. Lens aberrations can sometimes ruin a good picture and they occur when light in a lens is reflected wrongly as of my understanding. I use "thedigitalpicture" to determine the amount of aberrations there is under controlled conditions, though I also read reviews since aberrations rarely occur under controlled conditions. Newer lenses often has way less aberrations than older generations with the introduction of aspherical elements and so on. So lenses improve over time though at a lesser pace than camera bodies which is why camera lenses generally are a better investment than camera bodies over time. Focal length: This can get very technical, but it's not important to dig very deep to understand focal lengths in general. In simple terms focal length is your camera's field of view. A focal length of 135mm has a field of view of 18° degrees while a focal length of 200mm has one of 12° degrees (On fullframe cameras mind you!, look in the sector for for cropfactors). So the bigger the focal length the more "zoomed in'' you are. Now this can be greatly affected by cropfactors and other such things. So focal length determines how much your camera sees and is crucial for your choice in lenses. F/#: is the amount of light coming into the lens, the lower the aperture is the more light is let in which translates to faster shutter speeds or lower iso. For example a F/2.8 lens has double the amount of light coming into it versus a F/4 so the lower the value the better. One stop more light is two times the light coming into the lens. You can calculate stops of light by dividing or multiplying your aperture or F/# by 1.4x. So a lens that lets double the light of an F/2.8 lens is 2.8/1.4=2 so an aperture of f/2 let's double as much light in as an f/2.8 lens. F-stop and focal length also determines the background blur, the lower the f-stop the more background blur is produced, focal length also greatly affect this topic. So if you want more background blur search for lenses that has a low f-stop that let in more light and a longer focal length. T/#: This is mostly relevant for video work. A T-stop is how much light a lens let's through, while an f-stop is a physical size calculated from the physical aperture size and focal length of the lens. If i understood it correctly t-stops are calculated from how much light a lens transmits. So a perfect f/2 lens would have a t-stop of t/2, this is only a hypothetical scenario though since it's impossible to have perfect light transmission in a lens. IS/VR/OS: All these are different terms for optical stabilization. Which is an optical stabilizer within the lens that stabilizes your pictures so you have a higher chance of getting a sharp photo. Sometimes it might pay off to get a lens that let's less light in, but has optical stabilization which allows longer shutter exposures. Remember to turn the stabilizer off if you have your camera on a tripod and need to expose it for more than 1 second. Since the optical stabilization can interfere with a long exposure image. Ultrasonic and Stepper motors There are mainly two types of lens motors in use. Stepper motors which are generally considered more smooth and silent versus their ultrasonic counterparts which in general are considered quicker at focusing. I've heard and read that stepper motors are generally preferred for video work since they focus more smoothly. Now I could go on and recommend a lot of lenses, but then this post would get very long. I recommend Ken Rockwell’s website or "the digital picture". Both write very useful reviews Ken Rockwell does also make recommendations on his website which have helped me in the past. The digital picture also makes great reviews and they have a very usefull feature where you can go on and see the sharpness of lenses by looking at real pictures taken with the same camera using different lenses. DXOmark is also a fantastic website. I mainly use it to see how sharp the different lenses are and how "fast" they are or how much light they let in. If I need to make any additions please write a comment in the thread below. I’m open for critique. This is after all my first major post in this forum. And also please make your own informed decisions and not entirely based on this post. I'm as stated in the top not taking any responsibility for any choices made based on this post. I’ve also only chosen Canon related gear since it’s the brand I'm most familiar with, I know that Nikon and Sony make great cameras too and they might be better for you. My information is also based on a lot of stuff I've read over the years and general experience so i'm not a master at photography, at all!
  9. Afternoon, A very exciting piece of software came out on the 28th April 2020. ¬For more on this visit this link. https://1.shortstack.com/VChq6Z I was wondering if anybody could help me because I have a 50d. Is their a way it can be coded so I can use my camera?? I would be grateful if any one could help, as needed for my work over my not so good webcam.
  10. Hi! I bought a battery grip for my canon 200D/SL2 from B&H (the Vello BG-17). When I plug in the included shutter cable for the secondary trigger button on the grip, my screen goes black. The camera still works tho, the button on the camera aswel as the one on the grip. toughts? thanks!
  11. I currently have an ancient Panasonic Lumix TZ10. In the family we also have a Nikon D5200 with an 18 - 55mm kit lens. I can usually take this away with me when / if I go away for a day or two, however I'm about to go on an 8 week trip over to the US and so I don't really want to borrow someone else's camera for that length of time. I had ordered a DJI Mavic Pro from Jessops (here in the UK) on finance, however I have since managed to purchase one from a different retailer. Jessops have told me that I can either cancel the finance, or use different a item/s in it's place. So I've been thinking of using the outstanding finance to purchase a new camera for myself. I usually use my TZ10 when attending shows (sports and otherwise) and concerts, as it's got a decent zoom, it's small and compact. I usually take the D5200 when going practically anywhere else, as the quality is far superior in all aspects. I've just never attempted to take a DSLR into a concert / show because I've read about the unlikelihood of being allowed to take them in. So I would like a small compact camera, good in low light, good with fast action, good zoom, whilst obviously also high quality. Portability is also big factor to take into consideration because we are going to be travelling, with that a flip-out screen would be handy but I suppose not a necessity. Video recording is something I also want to be able to do well. However I also would like the sheer quality that comes from a DSLR, it's versatility; ability to use external microphones, video recording (again), landscape photography, timelapse, etc. I'd love for this to have a better zoom than the D5200 we already have, and that brings me to the point, that if I was to get a camera of my own I'd probably like to get one that's better than the D5200. Don't really see the point in getting two of the same camera. So after days and days of research and working myself up, I had come to the conclusion it was between these cameras: Canon EOS 750D (T6I) with a 18 - 135mm IS STM lens at £799.00: http://www.jessops.com/online.store/categories/products/canon/eos-750d-digital-slr-18-135mm-is-stm-lens-95334/show.html Canon PowerShot G7 X Mark II at £549.00: http://www.jessops.com/online.store/categories/products/canon/powershot-g7-x-mark-ii-digital-camera-97892/show.html I had also noticed / was considering: Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ100 at £549.00: http://www.jessops.com/online.store/categories/products/panasonic/lumix-dmc-tz100-camera-in-black-97614/show.html Panasonic Lumix DMC- FZ1000 at £589.00: http://www.jessops.com/online.store/categories/products/panasonic/lumix-dmc-fz1000-digital-bridge-camera-93162/show.html Canon PowerShot G5 X at £613.00: http://www.jessops.com/online.store/categories/products/canon/powershot-g5-x-compact-camera-97413/show.html Nikon D7100 with 18-105mm lens at £899.00: http://www.jessops.com/online.store/categories/products/nikon/d7100-digital-slr-with-18-105mm-lens-88945/show.html Now my drone was £1359, so I've got that amount to play with. With that amount I could indeed purchase both the 750D & the G7 X but then I wouldn't be able to purchase any accessories to go with the cameras which would be a basic necessity, such as a camera bag, SD cards, an SLR Gorillapod, a Rode mic, a deadcat, etc. I can go slightly over and pay in cash, but I don't really want to go much over if at all. I also can't purchase from any other stores other than Jessops.com, or at least that's the only place I can use to fulfill my finance allowance. I can't decide which route to take, which camera or cameras to get, if they're even the best deals I can get, are they the best fit for purpose. I know a little bit about photography, video editting and cameras but not enough to make an informed decision. I've already got a Go Pro Hero 5 Black, as well as my Mavic Pro, a OnePlus 3T (which my girlfriend thinks I should use instead of a compact camera, and I'm slightly kiiind-of inclined to agree), and ideally I'd love to have both a compact and a DSLR camera but I just need some help figuring out what on earth to do in this situation and I do need to make a decision in the next few days as I set off in a couple of weeks. Please help?!
  12. I want to buy a DSLR by the beginning of May, but I dont know what to get! I have been using my friends Nikon D3300 to learn how to use it so im familiar with the nikon UI. Right now im thinking about the Nikon D5300 because it has more video capabilities and a rotatable display. I want reccomendations for cameras at 600 USD and image quality is my priority. reccomend anything! thanks!
  13. Hey guys I have a USB Mic the Samson Meteor, and want to use it for my DSLR. My Canon t5i has a 3.5mm input for mic and I guess I was wondering if it would have enough Voltage output to use my USB Mic with it. Obviously I would need a USB mini to 3.5mm adapter but I won't get it unless I know it will work. I don't want to drop more money on another mic and thought this might work. Has anyone tried this before?
  14. Long story short, im in need of a telephoto zoom. Im shooting with a canon 60D(may get upgraded eventually). I am having a hard time justifying the Canon 70-200 2.8L is ii because I dont shoot photos for money often and cant currently justify the ~ $2000 cost. Whats the next best alternative? I hear the sigma still has qc issues, tamron is releasing a new 70-200 next month (people seemed to like the first version despite the focus breating issue) and i could get a canon 70-200 2.8Lis mk 1 for about the same price as the third party lenses.
  15. Which is the best choice ?? Canon 760D or Sony Alpha a68?? * Picture quality * Performance at Price * Lens varity ..(Important) * Support ----------------------------------------------- I'm a beginner Photographer and Videographer.!! Thanks in advance!!
  16. Which is the best choice ?? Canon 760D or Sony Alpha a68?? * Picture quality * Performance at Price * Lens varity ..(Important) * Support ----------------------------------------------- I'm a beginner Photographer and Videographer.!! Thanks in advance!!
  17. So, I'm in high school and learning how to shoot photos and im just curious, how much better are cameras like the new rebel t6i, sony ax6300 and the GH4 in comparison to my camera? I am in no way good enough to even think of upgrading to a better camera, as i'm still not comfortable with adjusting anything on my camera without a lot of tinkering, but if i was a pro, would the t3i get blown out of the water? this is just for photos. To give you an idea of what my camera could do in auto mode, heres this: ( if you're wondering about the bike, its my friend's yamaha r3 with a m4 slip-on For lenses i use a 18-55 & 55-250mm
  18. Hi guys, I have old printer which was sitting on a closet and I needed something to print so I tried to print something and I install drivers again and connected everything so i tried to print image and it didn't "swallowed" paper so what could be the problem and how can I fix it if it is possible? Printing machine is Canon PIXMA MP 240. Thanks guys!!!
  19. Here is the question.. It mabee seem nonsense.. WHICH IS BETTER .... CANON - NIKON - SONY !! ?? ... DSLRs !! (compare each other with its same or approx equal price range) ..... wanna know the recent DSLR's market for Canon, Nikon, Sony !!
  20. I am trying to run a stream for events, and the video keeps freezing when I plug in more than one camera to the capture cards. (Excluding USB Webcams). Setup: Computer: i7 6700k @ 4.4 ghz 16GB RAM Windows 10 Pro MSI 650ti Boost Capture Cards: (2x) Blackmagic Decklink Recorder (PCIe) Cameras: (2x) Canon Vixia HF G30 Logitech C920 Webcam Audio: Behringer Xenyx Q802USB Problem: I have 3 camera sources-2 Canon camcorders brought in by Decklink capture cards, and a Logitech C920 webcam. The stream will run fine with one of the Canon cameras and the C920 plugged in, but as soon as I plug in the second camera, I start to get problems. The video from the first Canon camera will freeze. I can re-initialize the source to get the video back, but then the other will freeze. I have tried with multiple different cameras, from different brands, different cables, different PCIe Slots, everything I can think of. I have tried different streaming software, and both work fine in vMix and XSplit-no freezing even after hours of streaming, so I am assuming it is some kind of issue with OBS Studio, rather than my hardware. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Log file: https://gist.github.com/cc4ab95c22b02490e9fcc99c19d262ff *Note-the C920 was not plugged in when I got this log file. I am aware that there is an update available for OBS, and will be downloading that shortly, but doubt that will fix the problem. Regardless, I will be posting results back here. If I have left anything out please let me know. Thanks!
  21. Hi there, i want to know which lenses LTT uses. I aleady found this out: Canon 24-105 f4 L (in older Videos) Tamron 24-70 f2.8 Sigma 50mm f1.4 Art I know that there is one more in Black/Red, manually, something like Samyang ? (Probably now replaced by the Sigma) Also there must be a few other ones. Thanks for help
  22. Hi everyone, I have a serious paper jam on a Canon MX472 printer. See attached photo. I could really use a tip on disassembly for this particular device. Thank you.
  23. Hi guys, I need some help with deciding what Camera to buy. For my college course I need something to film and shoot photos with and my budget is 400€. I see the old Canon 500D is around 250€ while the new one 1300D Rebel is roughly at the same price point. Same with the 100D and the 700D/1100D. Are there any reasons not to buy the older generation? I mean there is gotta be a reason why old stuff still retails at the same price as new stuff, right?
  24. Hi all, I have a Canon EOS M10 with an 15-45MM F/3.5-6.3 lens. I am going to South Africa in a few weeks and will be doing some nature photography, now the lens I have is for short distances and I am looking for a relative cheap lens for further away. I am thinking about buying the CANON EF-M 55-200MM F/4.5-6.3 IS STM (280 euros). Now my question is: will this lens do me some good in shooting pictures of animals in safari and stuff? Cheers.
  25. So the unfortunate truth is because of laws in the rest of the world regarding camcorders, DSLRs are imposed with an artificial 20 minuet recording cap. I have a Canon 7DmkII and frequently find myself in situations where I need to set the camera up and just let it run. Outside of buying a different camera the solution I'm currently looking at is the Atomos Ninja 2 - 4.3". It looks like a great piece of gear for me. it takes HDDs or SSDs, it records in Apple ProRes and it looks like a great little monitor with focus peeking among other things. My problem is, I can't find anywhere what the max record time is. It says with a 1TB HDD it'll hold 22 Hours of ProRes LT footage BUT it doesn't say how long it will let you record CONTINUOUSLY. Does any one know if the Atomos Ninja 2 will record for hours non stop? or does anyone have any other suggestions other than getting a new camera?
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