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  1. Anyone here using a Blackmagic Camera (like the Blackmagic Design Pocket Cinema Camera 4K) with a good iPhone-app to control the features like white balance, iris, shutter and preferable also focus remotely? The Blackmagic Camera Control app is only available for iPad (not iPhone) for some reason...?
  2. I have a regular computer, 4GB RAM, Core 2 Duo processor, 2 cores, 2 threads, GT 1030 graphics card I have over 10 hard drives ranging from 40GB-320GB, I could, for example, connect them via RAID so they work together or simply take a 320GB drive and delete the recordings every week - I know how to do it all. What kind of surveillance camera can be connected to a computer via USB? It's best if it was on Aliexpress because you can order it all over the world. What software so that I can check how normal monitoring is done on my phone, no matter where I am.
  3. Hi, I'm looking for camera recommendations. The type of photos I would like to take with this camera would be action shots with my friends for example, water skiing, surfing, and skiing, photos at parties/gatherings, and travel photos (famous buildings etc.). Due to the type of photos I plan to take with this camera I would like it to be compact and if possible, it would be able to fit in my pocket or hang comfortably around my wrist with a strap. My budget is around €500 or US$550. 4k video would be preferable. I realise this is a very broad question but if anyone has any advice/recommendations I would appreciate it. Andrew
  4. Hi guys, Thanks for the help in advance. I have 8 Yi Outdoor Cameras 1080p which have the Yi-Hack mod installed on them which allows the cameras to be used with other software that support Custom RTSP streams. I have tried multiple programs. Shinobi, tinycam Pro, iSpy and others. But the issue that I am having is that I am either having a stable stream with low fps or high fps but the stream doesn't reconnect. I was thinking of buying an NVR from Hikvision but I cannot find anywhere a guide on how to add Custom RTSP streams to it. The manual does make a mention of adding RTSP Stream from a camera but it needs to support username and password. I have a system converts HDMI to a TV Channel and the signal from any device (Windows PC, Android TV Box, NVR) will be output to that converter and then it can be watch from a specific channel in every TV in the house. I was wondering if anyone has ever used an NVR from Hikvision with Custom RTSP Streams or if you guys have any software that you can recommend. Thanks in advance
  5. I'll cut straight to the point here. I've been looking a lot at the a7SIII as an upgrade from my A7III. The main thing holding me back is deciding what hardware I'll need to be able to edit the footage without transcoding/using proxies. I've heard a lot about many computers struggling with the codecs, and am frankly stuck on what level of machine I'll need for this. I've been looking at a few different machines (I need a laptop for the nature of my work), but can't find much as to what level of laptop I'll need for this. Shall I wait for the new batch of M1 macs, or will a dell XPS 15, or 17 cut it? I'd love to stay with windows, but have been hearing good things about the M1 macs. Help and discussion very much appreciated with this.
  6. Goodnight everyone! First time making a post here, so I’m sorry if I make any mistake or if the post is too long. Suggestions on cameras for absolute beginners? I’m looking for one specifically for landscapes. I think it would be important to add that I'm basically clueless about cameras in general. I have researched for the last two days, read some posts on this forum on landscapes, and took notes, but I thought it might be good to ask for some guidance directly. I will be traveling to Iceland next year (hopefully), and I really want to take good pictures. I’m aware of the average prices so I’m on a budget. Say, perhaps 800 to 900 dlls. Wouldn't mind getting a used camera, but I don’t know if this would be a good or bad idea due to possible malfunctions and no guarantees; I have also looked up recommended gear for the Icelandic weather, so I would prefer to travel lightweight. I imagine that the jackets and boots will be heavy enough. Thanks a lot for your time.
  7. Before I ask much detail is there anyone here who knows alot about blue iris? I have used it for years but I am just now working to optomize it as best I can. My biggest question is there is many options for hardware decode, is gpu the best? I assume yes but I am curious. Options are Intel, intel plus VPP, Nvidia NVDEC, Direct X VA2, Direct3D11 VA and intel beta
  8. Hi there, For school I have to find out what kind of camera's people shoot movies with, like what kind of resolution en why they use those camera's can you guys help me out?? If you could leave a link of the source, that would a terrific!!
  9. I am having a hard time wrapping my head around how exactly field of view works in terms of a camera. From what makes sense to me, the field of view would be for the camera itself during a still image and then video would be taken from pieces of that. For an 8 megapixel camera, the picture size will 3280x2464 pixels. Of course, the most common video resolutions are 1080p, 720p, or 480p. (1920x1080, 1280x720, 640x480) I have attached a picture that describes how I imagine field of view works, is anyone more familiar on this topic that could shed some light for me? I have an arducam raspberry pi camera advertised at 175 degree field of view, the horizontal and vertical resolution is 96 dpi, and the bit depth is 24. I want to know what the field of view is of each video recording resolution. Thank you!
  10. Hii there I am looking for a new camera for both taking photos and recording videos. I have looked at the Canon EOS 2000D but I'm not too sure. My budget is between £200-£500. Any recommendations. Thanks in advance
  11. Snooping deeper, I hit the paranoia jackpot and found a whole mini-surveillance set-up of Chloe's house, with cameras in the halls and some rooms. Truly creepy shit. What kind of uber-paranoid puts cameras throughout his own home? Chloe's stepfather, I guess. I see why she's got serious attitude. When I got back upstairs, I couldn't fix the stupid camera. But Chloe saw the butterfly photo and knew I was in the bathroom and set off the alarm. Her attitude totally changed and she realized that I had saved her life. Even though it could have gone the other way... She was so happy like when we were kids and it was great to see her face light up. She even gave me her dad's awesome old instamatic as a symbol of our reunion. She cranked up the tunes and started dancing on her bed like a maniac. She even got me to shake my booty. Just a bit. That's when Chloe's stepfather showed up. And it was David Madsen.
  12. Hey Friends. My parents want cameras - as they have a synology NAS - i setup two on that. Simple, no ongoing cost and very easy. But they want more cameras and wireless because it’s easy to put them up move them and sort them out as required. I initially said Eufy - a friend has them and loves them - no subscription - and the advertised at home storage / no cloud involvement. BUT - now what do i do? We live in Australia - they are in Brisbane - so our options are limited. I’m visiting them for 4 days over christmas (not a lot of time). I’m am currently leaning towards Eufy and setting up a separate wifi network just for that. BUT still really don’t want to support Eufy. However I needs a good solution - no ongoing cost - that can be setup quickly and is actually available in Brisbane now. Thoughts? EDIT - addition and closeout below (Jan 2023). Purchased the EUFY system for the parentals - really does achieve their desire of video coverage where they want it and easy to use. Thanks everyone for chiming in - whilst I cannot say the company has done a great job with this it's still (IMO) the best value for money.
  13. So, Xiaomi and Oppo have recently shown a selfie camera under the screen at the too Do you guys know of any selfie cameras which lie under the screen closer to the middle because this seems like a really good idea. My idea is that the camera would lie about 1/3 of the way from the top of the screen instead of the top like in all phones. It would be essentially underneath the middle of the screen. This would benefit the user because 1) when taking selfies the camera would be close to the person's eyes meaning they would therefore be looking into the camera in a more natural position as they would be looking them selves in the eye 2) No notch 3) Video calling somone would make eye contact easier as you could actually look at someone and therefore be looking directly into the camera 4) The sensor could be much larger as there is no bezel or notch to try to reduce the size of allowing the selfie camera to be as good as the other camera on a phone. I dunno What do you think, please let me know.
  14. All recommendations have been removed since they were outdated and incomplete.Thank you GDRRiley! Disclaimer: I don’t consider myself as a good photographer there is always room for improvement (Especially when you look what photos the pro's are able to pull off). This information is what I have gathered over a few years of experience. This post have been written because I know that I would have learned much faster if I had begun reading just a few short articles or posts and I want to help the person who is standing in the same situation as I did a few years ago. There have been written whole books on this topic and there is much more to learn than the technological aspect of photography, but I hope that this has at least helped one person to understand something that he/she didn't before. The examples are as of may 2020 A guide to Digital Photography and Cameras I wan't to preface this saying that this is not a video guide, though some of the information might be useful. I have personally owned a few cameras over the years. Canon 1Dx, (5D mark II Very shortly) and now own a Canon 5Ds, M50, gopro and lots of dji film drones (i will make a separate thread with those if people want it), all that with a nice supply of lenses (i can also make separate guide to those). So it's quite obvious that i have very little experience with other camera brands like Nikon or Sony. I base my recommendations in this topic on my own research and experience with cameras. I will from the start recommend one very simple and quick step, and that is to do your own research in advance of buying cameras and a lot of it. This post is for people to make their own informed decisions, i’m not taking any responsibility for any choices made by others. I would also like to come with a classic saying which is “it’s not the camera that’s important, but the person behind it” I think this is very true and gear isn’t everything. This video by Peter Mckinnon an absolutely great youtuber really shows it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N8LOoQxSi8M&t=318s. I will state that my experience mainly comes from nature and wildlife photography I have limited experience shooting street photography. I might have a bias especially towards how important good autofocus is since it's the thing that have let me down the most times in wildlife photography and is really important for me. Mirrorless vs DSLR Pros: Right now mirror less cameras are very tempting, and for good reason, they are generally speaking lighter. They also have electronic viewfinders which i see as a major plus especially as a beginner, since you can see the exposure. The flange distance (the distance between lens and sensor) is smaller since there is no mirror between lens and sensor, this means you can adapt older lenses to the mirror less camera like the canon ef to rf adapter or ef to Sony-e. So now you have several series of lenses you can use on your cameras. (Nikon is a bit special since autofocus won’t work on all of their old lenses with their Nikon-f to ftz adapter because some of them requires an internal AF motor) you can’t adapt the other way round so you can’t adapt a canon rf lens to a canon ef mounted camera because of the flange distance it was designed to use. This means that you have the best of both worlds, there are also other pros to shorter flange distance that are very technical and that I won't dive into in this post. Cons: But the downsides are also major, like awful battery performance in some cases 1/5 of a dslr equivalent and slow (but more precise so better for very low aperture lenses) auto focus, that's just how contrast autofocus is right now, this can be a pro or a con, but newers models of mirrorless cameras use both phase detect and contrast so you both hit the focus right on and have the speed of the phase detect. While that is said some older dslr’s also use contrast autofocus so a good amount of research is recommended in advance. Conclusion: Mirrorless is definitely the future so if you have the opportunity to go mirrorless it's sometimes a better start. With that said there are still fantastic dslr cameras out there and with the different lens adapters you can easily upgrade down the line. With newer mirrorless cameras they also have smart integration some cameras like the sony A7R III have the ability to track the eye of a bird and such. This is very useful especially for a person like me that likes wildlife photography. ISO: Very simply explained ISO is essentially a setting that can brighten up your photo. The higher the value the more sensitive your sensor becomes to light. Therefore it gets brighter this comes with a catch: the higher the ISO value the more noise there is in the picture (the less quality there is), so you should always have the lowest ISO possible with reasonable shutter speeds. If you have you'r ISO set at 100 your picture will get double as bright if you set your ISO to 200 and 4 times as bright if you set it to 400 ISO. I would generally try to have my ISO as low as possible while getting the sharpest pictures, it’s hard sometimes getting 1/250s shutter speeds at 100 ISO, and that’s the point where I crank it up. So ISO performance is a crucial part of getting a new camera, generally newer cameras have good ISO performance. Auto focus: Auto focus is a really important part of a camera and can mean the difference between you getting a photo or not. There are many types of auto focus, but a good rule of thumb is that older mirrorless cameras have very slow auto focus, older DSLRs are a bit more forgiving in this topic, but auto focus in general is essential since it can even mess up photos that are still. Mirror less cameras use contrast autofocus which moves the focus point back and forth until it finds the right focus point with the most contrast, thus it's more accurate but slower, the newer mirrorless cameras combine contrast and the phase detect autofocus we know from dslr's so they have the best of both worlds(Autofocus capability varies from camera to camera so research it thoroughly before getting a new camera). The main advantage to phase detect is that it's generally considered to be faster than contrast autofocus, but less accurate, so that's the trade off between the two. I would say though that modern phase detect autofocus is very accurate and I have no problem relying on it. face detect and eye autofocus has also been increasingly more accurate in recent years especially Sony have been known for their incredible autofocus. Sensor sizes: There is a lot of sensor sizes out there and this is an essential part of choosing your camera. Sensor size determines a lot in your camera and the sensor size also effectively determines the crop factor (How much of the image you can see). There is a lot of disadvantages and advantages to different sensor sizes and i will go through some of them now. If we have two cameras with the same amount of megapixels in the let's say 20. The bigger the sensor is the bigger the pixels on the sensor are. This essentially means that the individual pixels on the big sensor can absorb and therefore detect more light improving low light performance. The larger pixels also creates less noise which boils down to less noise at higher ISO's which means that you can turn your ISO higher up and shoot pictures in darker situations (This is extremely dependent on the camera you buy, but this is just in general). The smaller the sensor is, the bigger the crop factor is. You essentially see less of the image, you can compare it to zooming with a lens. so if you have an Canon aps-c sized sensor you can multiply your lens’s focal length by 1.6x (nikon 1.5x) and a micro 4/3 you can multiply it by 2x. Though it's not really the same because you will have the same background blur on a 400mm f/2.8 if it's on fullframe camera or a aps-c camera. On the aps-c camera you just see less of the overall picture, so sometimes background blurring can be a problem. Most common sensor sizes: 2/3" (not to be confused with 1/2.3" or 1/3.2") The 2/3" form factor is one typically found in gopros and in some mobile phones. This is rarely used in camera bodies and generally not a sensor size I would recommend for still shooting, but for video work I will say it's decent and I like the video quality of my gopro hero 6. Micro 4/3" Is a very popular sensor size for video work. I have heard many good things about this sensor size and I will recommend it for video capturing. Like the GH5 from panasonic. I will on the other hand not recommend it for still shooting. It is definitely possible to do so, but I would recommend bigger sensor sizes. This sensor type has a 2x crop factor so a 100mm lens will become a 200mm on a 4/3" sensor size camera. APS-C This sensor size is extremely popular and if you go down to a camera store, chances are that the camera body you are looking at probably has an aps-c sensor in it. This sensor size is very versatile, but generally aimed towards beginners or people who wants a little more range with their cameras for example if you are a wildlife photographer you can get away with using cheaper telescopic lenses because the crop factor here is on a canon sized sensor 1.6x (nikon 1.5x)so a 100mm lens becomes a 160mm (nikon 150mm) lens. Fullframe/35mm film This sensor type is for the enthusiast and pro. It's been the go to choice for professionals for many years. These sensors are used in high end camera bodies and are not beginner sensors. What I mean by that is how full frame sensors amplify your small mistakes like pictures that are not in focus and sharpness. I will only recommend a somewhat experienced photographer to buy full frame cameras. Lenses for these cameras are also in general more expensive, so it's the more expensive, but better option overall. Full frame sensors have a 1x crop factor so a 100mm lens is a 100mm lens on a full frame camera. Medium Format While this format differentiates in size a person who would buy a digital camera with a medium format sensor, should know more about photography than me (don’t know if that says much). These are only used in cameras that are made for the professionals, that both need the insane amount of megapixels they are capable of, but also the color depth. These are only for professionals and not anything I would ever recommend for a beginner. It's like an amplified full frame sensor it has all the benefits, but also all the cons, and are specialized equipment. It’s crop factor varies because of the varying sizes of medium format sensors. Lenses: Lenses are hard to choose and I will also make my recommendations very short on modern lenses, but don’t look at the overall score though that says very little about the lens, look at the individual scores instead. I’m recommending lenses that and to the point. There are many things to look out for in a lens and that’s for good reason. I recommend visiting dxomark.com and look at their benchmarks. The things i usually look for the most is sharpness and vignetting, if you buy older lenses, watch out for distortion and chromatic aberration which are less of a problem would personally have interest in keeping for the future. Lens sharpness and lens quality: A crucial step in choosing lenses is lens sharpness. I use DXOmark and Thedigitalpicture to determine lens sharpness. Sharpness is how good the lens reproduces the picture on the sensor of your camera. If you have a 42 megapixel camera, but a bad lens you might only have a resolution of 20 megapixels in some cases even worse. This adds a whole new dimension to lens choices and a crucial step that is easily overlooked while being crucial for mage quality. DXOmark tests sharpness on lenses so I recommend to look on their website for comparisons. Another really important aspect though not as important in my opinion since they are often correlated is lens aberrations. Lens aberrations can sometimes ruin a good picture and they occur when light in a lens is reflected wrongly as of my understanding. I use "thedigitalpicture" to determine the amount of aberrations there is under controlled conditions, though I also read reviews since aberrations rarely occur under controlled conditions. Newer lenses often has way less aberrations than older generations with the introduction of aspherical elements and so on. So lenses improve over time though at a lesser pace than camera bodies which is why camera lenses generally are a better investment than camera bodies over time. Focal length: This can get very technical, but it's not important to dig very deep to understand focal lengths in general. In simple terms focal length is your camera's field of view. A focal length of 135mm has a field of view of 18° degrees while a focal length of 200mm has one of 12° degrees (On fullframe cameras mind you!, look in the sector for for cropfactors). So the bigger the focal length the more "zoomed in'' you are. Now this can be greatly affected by cropfactors and other such things. So focal length determines how much your camera sees and is crucial for your choice in lenses. F/#: is the amount of light coming into the lens, the lower the aperture is the more light is let in which translates to faster shutter speeds or lower iso. For example a F/2.8 lens has double the amount of light coming into it versus a F/4 so the lower the value the better. One stop more light is two times the light coming into the lens. You can calculate stops of light by dividing or multiplying your aperture or F/# by 1.4x. So a lens that lets double the light of an F/2.8 lens is 2.8/1.4=2 so an aperture of f/2 let's double as much light in as an f/2.8 lens. F-stop and focal length also determines the background blur, the lower the f-stop the more background blur is produced, focal length also greatly affect this topic. So if you want more background blur search for lenses that has a low f-stop that let in more light and a longer focal length. T/#: This is mostly relevant for video work. A T-stop is how much light a lens let's through, while an f-stop is a physical size calculated from the physical aperture size and focal length of the lens. If i understood it correctly t-stops are calculated from how much light a lens transmits. So a perfect f/2 lens would have a t-stop of t/2, this is only a hypothetical scenario though since it's impossible to have perfect light transmission in a lens. IS/VR/OS: All these are different terms for optical stabilization. Which is an optical stabilizer within the lens that stabilizes your pictures so you have a higher chance of getting a sharp photo. Sometimes it might pay off to get a lens that let's less light in, but has optical stabilization which allows longer shutter exposures. Remember to turn the stabilizer off if you have your camera on a tripod and need to expose it for more than 1 second. Since the optical stabilization can interfere with a long exposure image. Ultrasonic and Stepper motors There are mainly two types of lens motors in use. Stepper motors which are generally considered more smooth and silent versus their ultrasonic counterparts which in general are considered quicker at focusing. I've heard and read that stepper motors are generally preferred for video work since they focus more smoothly. Now I could go on and recommend a lot of lenses, but then this post would get very long. I recommend Ken Rockwell’s website or "the digital picture". Both write very useful reviews Ken Rockwell does also make recommendations on his website which have helped me in the past. The digital picture also makes great reviews and they have a very usefull feature where you can go on and see the sharpness of lenses by looking at real pictures taken with the same camera using different lenses. DXOmark is also a fantastic website. I mainly use it to see how sharp the different lenses are and how "fast" they are or how much light they let in. If I need to make any additions please write a comment in the thread below. I’m open for critique. This is after all my first major post in this forum. And also please make your own informed decisions and not entirely based on this post. I'm as stated in the top not taking any responsibility for any choices made based on this post. I’ve also only chosen Canon related gear since it’s the brand I'm most familiar with, I know that Nikon and Sony make great cameras too and they might be better for you. My information is also based on a lot of stuff I've read over the years and general experience so i'm not a master at photography, at all!
  15. I have been saving to buy a nice DSLR for a while now and was planning to get the Nikon D3400. But now the Nikon D5300 is on sale for the same price. Both cameras have 24.2 megapixel CMOS sensors D5300 has a bigger, rotatable, more HD screen D3400 has a fixed screen ISO on D5300 is 100 - 12800 (25600 boost) ISO on D3400 is 100 - 25600 the rest of the specs are here in a newegg comparison: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Productcompare.aspx?CompareItemList=-1|9SIA29P1JA9107^9SIA29P1JA9107%2C9SIA29P5130090^9SIA29P5130090 The D5300 is 600$ at costco and comes with a bag, SD card, and 70-300 NIKKOR DX lens. Just like the D3400 on newegg Can I get advice on which camera to pick or reccomendations for another camera with high image quality for around 600$? thanks! P.S. the D5300 is from late 2014 but is better if I decide to record films in the future. For now I will use a camera for photography.
  16. I have a Lenovo M800 ThinkCentre with an Intel i7-6700 at 3.40GHz, I have 4 screens coming out of this computer... I'm viewing at least 35-40 cameras with MileStone Client. My biggest problem is getting the right computer for this environment, every computer we have gotten so far is either somewhat able to handle all the views we are putting up on it or isn't able to handle the views... Now i'm not sure if we should start getting into building our own PCs but i'm trying t figure something out. The computer that I said on top barely runs those cameras with things being laggy and program force closing.... I would just like if someone can guild me in the right direction for Computers running Multiple screens and view cameras from a different location with there client. (MileStone, Hikvision)
  17. So basically I was trying different stuff on manual mode on my camera for long exposure pictures, not sure if I have the ISO or anything out of balance but no matter wht I adjust it still shows a very dark image all thought I have a bright light in my room. Any help?? IMG_6042.MOV
  18. Okay so i am starting my own humorus kinda serious Tech channel and i am looking for good starting equipment, i am going to order sound dampening Things, i am mainly looking for a 1080p 60Fps camera or a Camcorder. i want it to be able to take 1080p 0r 1440p pictures.
  19. Hey guys, I'm looking to buy my first decent camera. I'm looking for anything in the $200-400 range that can take good stills and video. I also need a pretty specific setup for it. I want to use it to record long-form lecture between 2hours and 3 hours, so I need a decent accompanying audio that suits that situation. If you can recommend me any products, peripherals, or any links to places where I can learn more about camera and camera audio recording that would be greatly appreciated.
  20. Hi folks, so I haven't see a thread where people can show off their gear so I thought I'd fill that space I'll introduce myself, My names Stewart and I'm a photojournalist covering many things including politics and civil unrest. I own a small news company with folk around the world. List of equipment in the image Cameras: Nikon D3100 Nikon D200 Nikon FM Lenses: Nikon 18-70mm f/3.5-4.5 Tamron 70-300mm f/4-5.6 Sigma 150-500mm f/5-6.3 Nikon 35mm f/1.8 Nikon 50mm f/1.8 Flashes and other flash related stuff: Yongnuo YN-560II x2 Neewer FC16 RT Pixel FC-312 Cable DIY Flash Bracket Storage: SanDisk 16GB 120mb/s CF x2 Transcend 4GB x133 x5 Various SD/MicroSD cards Other Stuff: Manfrotto 680B Uniden UBC125XLT Headphones Business cards Helmet Protective Eyewear Gas Mask Newswear Chestvest Multi-tools
  21. Well, this is going to be controversial to quite a number. But am I the only one who thinks optical stabilization is overrated? First of all, yes, I know what OIS is and I know how it can be useful as I am well aware that it is able to provide a steadier image by compensating for handshake, allowing a slower shutter speed to be utilized. For longer focal lengths, it can be made even more useful as you can stop down the shutter speed to a much lower speed for a lower ISO, resulting in a cleaner image that doesn’t require a lot of destructive NR. It is very useful, but I sometimes feel that people give it too much credit. Personally, I feel that OIS should complement a great sensor and lens combo. I’ve used a lot of cameras with OIS and let’s be real. OIS is great, but it won’t make a camera with a crap sensor and lens combo suddenly be very good. They have to work as a system. This is also why I’m unimpressed at anyone who shuns a camera simply for lacking OIS without taking into account other factors. What if the sensor itself is great at capturing light?
  22. As someone who is a video enthusiast, when I realized there would be a pretty epic eclipse in the US, I knew I had to record it... somehow. I heard about the eclipse back in March. At the time, I only had 1 usable camera - my Canon VIXIA HF G20... a consumer camera capable of recording 1080i60 or 1080p30. Here's a pic of it: Since March, I've been looking to upgrade my camera. And no, not just because of the eclipse. My budget was between $1000 USD and $1300 USD. At that price range, there were only a couple of options that would be actual upgrades from the G20. The VIXIA HF G40, a used XA 10 (which Canon appears to have discontinued), something like Sony's AX100, which isn't a great value. After searching B&H, I found JVC's GY-HM 170 - a 4K pro camera with an XLR top handle... for only $1200! You can watch my unboxing of this camera here. Now that I had a good camera, it was time to figure out how to record this eclipse! If you are in the video industry, you know that solar filters have been sold out for weeks now. I was lucky enough, however, to find some 92mm filters (way too big for this camera) on B&H and promptly ordered them. They arrived today. Even though they were too big, it was nothing that gaff tape couldn't fix. So that's how I'm gonna do it! Unfortunately, I won't be in the path of totality. I will, however, get 70% coverage, which is pretty awesome for my first eclipse. For the eclipse in 2024, I will be in the path of totality I plan on livestreaming the eclipse. You can watch it here: Hope you guys found this interesting!
  23. Here soon with my tax return I plan on buying a good DSLR camera. Being new to the operation of DSLR's I'm not sure what to be looking for or what makes one better than the next. I know I want to be able to change lenses but not much other than that. I know Nikon and Canon are great brands and am leaning towards one of those. I'm looking to spend in the range of $500-$800. Any recommendations?
  24. Hello, My parents have several camera's running at home and I used to run Ivideon on my own server for them. Last year I moved out house and recently I took my server with me since the upload speed at me parents home was to slow for me to use it. Now they want a small "server", aka a small pc to hang up next to the router and I've been searching around for cheap deals. Not that there are any over here (The Netherlands) so I came up with to two options: 1 - A new system, with 4GB DDR4 and a Intel Celeron J4105 (Intel ark page) in a small gigabyte barebone for a total of around 200 euros. 2 - A new/old system with 8GB DDR3 and a 4th gen processor (socket 1150), basically any one I can pick up from second hand market, like a i3 4160 I found for cheap (Intel ark page) for a combined total 300 euros. Now for a fact my parents are cheap af... So they would much rather buy the GIGABYTE barebone but I was thinking to myself... Can it handle it? I am planning to run the camera server on Ubuntu 16.04 and I need to hook up 6 1080P wireless camera's over RTSP. I will be running it on a 5400RPM 1TB disk. How well does the new Intel architecture handle decoding? All the camera's us H.264. Or am I better of buying a older system but with a stronger 4TH gen processor I3/I5. Sorry if I'm explaining it a bit chaotic since English is not my first language. Thanks in advance! Greetings, Jessie
  25. Hi guys. Looking for a DSLR camera kit. My budget is about 400/450 usd. I'm a beginner and I want the camera for learning purposes. I would like to have lenses that are good for most shooting situations. I was looking at this Amazon listing but you guys should know what's best.
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