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Showing results for tags 'cable'.
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Hello Peeps. I got some Deepcool ARGB casing fans from a Deepcool Mattrex case .But these fans have 3 pin JSTSM connector and I wasn't provided any converter. So is there any way to use ARGB on these fans without any converter/hub/ splitter? live in a kind of remote area so hard to get anything
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Hey LTT-community, I have recently bought a new Laptop (Asus Zephyrus G14 (2024)). I wanted something I can carry everywhere and still has some decent gaming performance. But the 240W powerbrick coming with the G14 is a little chonky. However the G14 supports 100W charging over the USB4 port. So I am in the market for a 100W USB-C PD power adapter. I am currently looking at an Anker Prime 100W GaN Wall Charger or Anker 737 Charger (GaNPrime 120W). But now the horror of chosing a decent power cable. I would love to have one cable to do everything. But is that even possible. 100W charging (minimum) 40 Gbps Decent length 6ft (2m) I thought I would have to carry arround two cables. Having 40 Gbps over a length of 2 meters sounds impossible due to signal loss. Untill i came across this cable... Cable Matters 40Gbps Active USB4 Cable - 3m 40 Gbps 100W 3 meters But damn this price... Must be the cost of wanting the one cable to do it all? Or is this just to good to be true? Does LTT still do cable testing? What do you think? Greetz Mussche
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This image is just a guide, but I have looked everywhere for a USB to Iphone lightning retractable charger and they do not seem to exist. The style that I need for my setup is a cable that only needs to be pulled from the Iphone charger side, so I can stick it to the back of my desk, and have it retract by itself. All of the ones I have found require both sides to be pulled at the same time. Thanks in advance if anyone can help find me one of these.
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What is the best aux extension around 3 ft and under 20 dollars? I have the Sennheiser 560 s and I am using the ABLET boom microphone cable, so I need 2 aux extensions to accommodate the headphone port and mic port. I don't want to lose any audio quality for the mic and headphones.
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Hello everyone, I have the problem that i bought my new GPU and 3 month ago i bought a new psu. (https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0BVL17341?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1) Now the psu just has 2x8 pin connectors which my new cards needs 3 of. My Question now is can i just buy a cable as linked down below or is there something better for a solution ? https://www.amazon.de/kabel，PCIE-Stromkabel-Anschluss-Netzteile-Thermaltake/dp/B0BWMT6WSH?ref_=nav_signin <- Cable =? Thank you in advance and sorry for my horrible gramma :P -
I have a Ryzen 5600 and a 6750xt. The graphics card official recommendation is a "650W or greater" PSU. So I bought the MSI PSU, but the 24 pin ATX cable is incredible hard to plug. I had to use all my strength for almost 1 hour and hurt my fingers just to plug the 10 + 18 pin cable to the PSU. The 18 pin side of the cable was the one requiring this ridiculous effort. But now it's being equally hard to plug it on the motherboard, and I think I'd prefer to not risk damaging it now (or latter when I have to remove the cable). So I think I'll just ask for a refund, but I'm not sure what PSU to buy. Should I still try another A650GF? It seems a great PSU, being tier A, gold, modular, 4 stars review on Tom's hardware, 10 years warrant, and being tested as okay in a benchmark test that compared it to the best PSUs. The worst complaints it got were about this cable thing and maybe a noisy fan. I'm okay spending about 50% more of A650GF price. But many says that you shouldn't overthink PSU, as long as it's tier A. So I don't know if I'd be overspending, or even if there's a better alternative.
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Hello I want to gift my self a new pair of haidset, the Meze 99 classic, with a pretty and high quality cable. I will use it with my pc, mac and iphone. i need help for adapters, i need to adapt the lightning to 4.4mm or 2.5mm jack female from the cable. i thought of using the official lightning to jack adapter that is well recommend from audiophiles and then a jack adapter to 2.5mm jack also from Meze (MONO 3.5 MM OFC BALANCED UPGRADE CABLES) thanks you
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I have gotten myself a relatively cheap KVM switch for working at home, only problem is I got my Laptop (MSI GP 66 Leopard) after the switch and it only outputs in HDMI. But the KVM switch I got only takes DP inputs. I tried using HDMI to DP cables, but contrary to the names, the signal only works one way (DP -> HDMI), with multiple devices even when directly PC to monitor. So does anyone know of ANY cable / adaptor that actually works the other way around? Would really like to know if thats possible or I just wasted my money.
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Hi all So I've always had some sort of annoyance with the cable. My current cable is partially coiled but I do still get annoyed by straight ones. I won't go wireless (less weight, not having to worry about charge, responsiveness etc), and use a DAC as I do appreciate good sound. With and without the DAC I've run the cable in pretty much every route under and over the desk (including drilling holes for a clean run) with it always being in the way somehow. I've been using a Keychron Q11 for a couple of months now and really like it, having a split keyboard means I can run the cable down the middle which, I feel, has improved things immensely. It wasn't a consideration when buying the board but it was a very nice surprise. It still isn't "perfect" with my hanger being to the side, but I kind of feel that it's as close as I'll get, at least for the moment. How do the rest of you run your cable in a way that is at least satisfactory for you, or have you seen other methods you're interested in but have yet to try?
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Hello guys I have probably the most dumb problem. I have c850 nzxt psu and it has modular cables and I attach my pcie cable to the psu. Now I bought gpu rgb extension cable and for some dumb reason female connector is not pcie it is eps(cpu), but end of it have male pcie connector. So I don't know what to do. Should i buy adapter to pcie to eps so i can connect this two, which means I would have Psu->pcie->pcie to eps adapter->eps to pcie extension cable->pcie to 12gpu.
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So I recently bought a PSU that didn't have a SATA cable and as the CoolerMaster doesn't make this specific PSU anymore I wasn't able to get one from them so I bought one somewhere else which states to work with my PSU. Now I've got it I want to properly test if the cable will work with my PSU before I turn everything on as I don't want to fry my new PC. Any help/tips? -
Hello Guys I was looking at my cables whime the pc was on and tried to move some out the way but accidentaly touched a gpu fan.there was no display afterwards. I restarted my pc and its working fine for now. Could i damaged something or shorted something? Is there a test to see it. I can normally boot on the pc and play games.
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My PSU, which is an MWE 650 Gold Fully Modular by CoolerMaster, doesn't have a sata cable to plug into the PSU and then my NZXT fan hub so I am unable to get my fans to work and I can't for the life of me find the correct cable for it anywhere! Is there anyway around it or where can I get one that would work with my PSU?
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Like every night of gaming i turn off the pc, but this this time I remove the power cable from the socket because i needed it to charge my phone. So the pc stay with no power all night. Next morning i plug it in nothing happens, i unplug the cable turn off the psu switch and replug and turn on the psu and it turns on for 1 sencond and shuts off and it goes into this loop of turning on and off. Tried diffrent power cables Tried removing the ram Tried removing the cpu power cavle and the 24 pin one Tried holding the power button for 20 secs while no power cable on Tried diffrent sockets and outlets And now after trying all of the above, the pc wont turn on or go into the same on and off loop Update : psu was fine turned out to be a Bois failure. repair shop managed to get the bois working again
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I just buy PSU and I noticed some pin on the cable is missing is this normal?, and I also noticed a small metal object on the box I afraid one of the pin on the cable is come loose. Image 1: small metal object Image 2: molex cable Image 3&4: PCIe 6+2 to PSU cable, PSU end cable have the missing pin Image 5: 24 pin cable
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Hey everyone, I recently found an old (~10 years), but still working, Asus laptop in a drawer. After powering it on I checked the thermals, only to notice that it would permanently thermal throttle without any load (basically just windows in idle). Therefore, I decided to repaste the CPU and GPU. The repasting itself went perfectly fine. The reassembly however, did not. The problem is, the I lost the locking part of a flat-cable-connector, and I also can't get the cable itself back in. See the attached picture (cable in mid-air, connector in beige on the left. It seems to be the cable leading to the power-button. Is there anything I can do? Thanks! Edit: Thanks for all the replies! After I have now tried a few times, but could not get the laptop to start, I have now given up the whole thing and will dispose of the laptop in the recycling. Too bad.
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hi, i lm daily driving the Asus vivobook pro 14 the crhager is a 120w charger with a bucket plug in the end and a giantish power brick i want to make / buy a 120w type c to bucket plug for it so I can use something like anker Gen chargers for it and all the other devices I own, any ideas on best way to do it or from where to buy?
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Linus mentioned in the last video he wanted help naming the Magnet cable organizer I had some crap ideas and one good one IMO - MagManagment other options MagCabOrg Hold all Snap on MagSafely.... Organized
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For some reason I threw out the box to my 700BQ with all the additional cables, around a year ago. Problem is, I just got a rtx 3080 which requires 3 8 pin cables, whereas only 2 are hardwired into the PSU I have. I've been looking for around 2 hours, and the only place I can find a cable is on EVGA's official website, which has terribly slow shipping, unless I pay quite a bit. Also, that appears to be only for the supernova BQ series, which I have just now learnt is not compatible with the 700BQ. Does anyone else have any solution for my problem? I will try to get in contact with EVGA directly, however they are not open until tomorrow or Tuesday. Thanks in advance. -
My Fiance is a school teacher and she needs to connect her school issued laptop to the smart board kind of TV on the other side of the room from her desk. And the way the room is setup she can't set her laptop next to the smart board tv, so she uses a very cheap 50 foot passive hdmi cable to connect her laptop to the tv. She asked me if I could find a better slightly shorter HDMI cable for her which I have, for around 50 bucks and its an active one now, which solves some of her other problems she was having with the passive hdmi. But then she asked me if I could find her a 40ish foot long Type C to Type C cable so she can connect the laptop to the smart board tv, so she can use touch inputs on the tv, instead of having to run back and forth from her laptop to the tv to change something on the screen. I can't for the life of me find any type c to type c cables out there long enough, and ones that I trust will actually do the job. Was wondering if anyone had any ideas on some. I am not against building my own cables, but was hoping that would be the last step. -
Thermaltake V200 or V250 MB-IN Cable for MSI motherboard
sabeerdarr posted a topic in Cases and Mods
I didn't got this cable within the box so now I want to get this Thermaltake wire!! From where can I get this one as it is Thermaltake proprietary cable?
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Budget (including currency): 225€ Country: Croatia Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Minecraft,Call of Duty,GTA(SA,III,IV,V),Sims 4,Stellaris,Hearts of Iron IV Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): Monitor,at least 144Hz I am thinking of buying Monitor Samsung 27" Odyssey G3 [S27AG300NU] and I am currently using a 10 year old monitor that is 60Hz.Now the monitor that I left here is 144Hz,so my question is:Do I need to get a new display port or HDMI cable(this monitor has hdmi 1.4 only) or something for 144Hz refresh rate?(1 HDMI is already in package with monitor) GPU:Nvidia 1650
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Hi everyone. I've started working on a college project, which would be my end of degree (from here, it'll be called EOD) project. In my college, this is made with a proffesor, which is my EOD tutor, and then it's presented to a jury for them to see if it's a good project. We're working with an FPGA (an ICEBreaker board) that is used as a SoC for robotic applications. My EOD consists on designing and printing a modular robotic system for the FPGA to be implemented. these FPGAs are also part of a project for a subject of my degree, so it comes quite handy. One of the challlenges there is with the FPGA is that in order to get it reprogrammed you'd have to disconect it from the power input of the robot and get it connected to the computer, program it, reconnect it to the power input, and then rinse and repeat. This is a challenge to overcome. from what I've seen about the board, it's connected via a micro USB cable, which then gets to a USB 2.0 to connect to the computer. So, my idea to face this challenge is this: split the USB cable, so the Vcc and the gnd go to the power source's USB, and the gnd, d+ and d- go to the computer's. that way, it would keep powered on and get reprogrammed whenever I need. Would this be viable? TIA -
I have the problem of overthinking and anxiety. I dropped my MacBook Pro type c cable. I didn't see it touch the ground but heard the sound of it touching the ground. I don't know if it was the plastic end that touched it or the exposed metal charging point. I'm scared it was the latter and now the pins could be damaged and it might get shorted and destroy my MacBook during charging. Drop was from around 5ft height. What are the chances that the pins are now damaged and will cause a short circuit and destroy my MacBook in the future. It still charges the Mac. It is a 2m C to C cable Thanks for giving me your valuable time
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Hiya, so I have this old prebuilt PC from acer that I use on occasion. It's a bit of a chop shop pc now and I wanted to put in a hard drive I no longer need in my current pc, only problem is supplying power to the hard drive seems to be a bit trickier than I planned (I'm no pc expert so bear with me). The pc still runs off of the original non-modular psu unit form seasonic and only has a 6 pin power connector unused. When looking at the oem motherboard I found 2 sockets lableled HDDPWR that are a straight line of 6 pins but I have no idea what type of cable would connect here and cant seem to find much online (I'll include a picture of the sockets). I am fairly certain it originally had a hard drive but I can't seem to find the original cable so trying to find the easiest way to power the hard drive. So my question I guess is if anyone has a solution or knows what kind of cable this is/where i would find this cable or if it's possible to convert the 6 pin to a sata connector (not sure whether female 6 pin to sata exists/can't find anything). Don't really want to buy a new psu seeing as I don't use the pc all that much and it would require changing other problems with the oem mobo. Thanks to anyone that can help!
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