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What’s a good and reliable psu for a 3600 and 3060ti ? I’ve gotten the cx650w from Corsair recommended but I’ve heard that they’re unreliable. I’m looking for a semi modular at least and if possible under 100 USD

Cooler Master MWE 450 V2 230V vs. Corsair CV450. Which one is better in terms of quality - Protectors, Capacitors, Overall Quality etc?? I want to buy one of these new PSUs from Amazon India. I was looking to go for Corsair CX450M but that seems to be of older design and is out of stock. I could have considered a Seasonic SSR-550PX but unfortunately, only this one 550 model is available on Amazon India and it is way, WAY too expensive! 28,669 (384.37 USD ). A 450 watt power supply is more than enough for me. However, I could consider the 550 versions of the two PSUs in question, but anything more than 550 is overkill. I currently have Seasonic S12 ii 520 with Ryzen 7 1700x CPU, and ASUS GeForce PH-GT1030-O2G 2GB Graphics Card. Links: Cooler Master MWE 450 V2 230V Rs. 3000 (40.19 USD) https://www.amazon.in/dp/B08GTF8224/?coliid=IJC1NW9SVL1CB&colid=U9J4A7TU5KCO&psc=1 Corsair CV450. Rs. 3499 (46.91 USD) https://www.amazon.in/Corsair-Bronze-Certified-Non-Modular-Supply/dp/B07YVVXYFN?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1&psc=1

Example: 650 Watt 80+ Gold or 750 Watt 80+ Bronze Which is better?

Hi. It has passed 4 months I brought *Antec VP550 Plus 550W* But some of peoples saying this is the worst psu? I know its not 80% rated, And didn't saw anyone saying any problems of this model. So MY QUESTION is Does *Antec VP550 Plus 550W* Good? or worst ever? Should I need to worry? Thank you!

Hello! It's been a while since I've been on here. But I'll make this quick. I'm considering upgrading my current GPU to an amd rx 570(8gb model no OC, if it matters) from a gtx 1050. My main concern is wattage and running too close to my PSU's reccomended wattage. Here's a list of my specs Seasonic 430w bronze rated psu Ryzen 2200g Gtx 1050 One HDD and an nvme m.2 SSD After some quick googling, my CPU at full load pulls around 70ish watts and the RX 570 pulls a little less than 300, bringing the system power draw to 370 watts leaving 60 watts overhead for the rest of the system. This is my first GPU upgrade so I'm not sure if that's too little for my system or maybe I should consider a bigger PSU upgrade before I buy the GPU Any comments are greatly appreciated!

PLEASE HELP!! Hi i´m building a console killer and need to know if the included 450W 80+ Bronze PSU, included in the factal design Node 202 is enough to power my parts! all answers are welcome. Parts: Gigabyte gtx 1060 mini-itx oc (3GB) Intel core i5 6500 MSI H110I-Pro (motherboard) 1 Stick 8GB 2133mhz RAM 1 SSD 240 GB

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I recently purchased the EVGA 500B for my build and am now wondering if it is worth getting a new PSU. My build is a i5 6600K with a gtx 1070 witch only uses 350W. I have heard that you should avoid this PSU and im wondering if its really worth shelling out the extra $80 for a better PSU just to replace my 500B? Is there really a problem with this PSU? if so what is it? It seems fine to me. My build: https://nz.pcpartpicker.com/list/NyCyqk

Greetings! This is my build as of now: CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor Motherboard: MSI Z170A GAMING PRO CARBON ATX LGA1151 Motherboard Memory: Kingston FURY 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1060 3GB 3GB ARMOR OCV1 Video Card Case: NOX Hummer MC Zero Edition ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply: SeaSonic S12II 430W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply As you can see, I do have a PSU in there but it comes at 60€ and that's a bit too much for me. My budget is exactly 730€ so I'd like to know if, for this 280W build, there is a decent 30€ or less PSU that's at least 80+ Bronze (as I was told that was the minimum I should go with) and that won't explode into flames. Thank you in advance, - Nervly

Newegg has EVGA BT 450w power supply for 22$ and there's a mail-in rebate of 10$, making the final price 12$ (if your mail-in rebate actually goes through) Link : https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438130&ignorebbr=1 It's a non-modular power supply, it's budget oriented (stamped fan holes) , few connectors, and I don't know how quality it is (though i doubt it's great if they can manage selling them at such discounts) Still, it may be good to have one of these around to revive older computers, or to have a spare one if you repair computers or to have around if your good one may fail. Could be also good for example to power LED light strips or as a hobbyist to make a custom power supply for your projects. At 12$ it sounds like a great deal to me.

I want to build a PC before I head back to college in the fall. After watching the TechQuickie video on choosing the right PSU, I found myself second guessing whether I should get a 430W 80+ white, or a 450/500W power supply with a bronze rating. PC part picker says the system would consume around 260W. Here is the list: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/MindofSamuel/saved/7Fc8dC . Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi, I am building a gaming PC and I want my PC to be as cheap as possible. One way of decreasing the price is to change the 80+ Gold PSU with a 80+ Bronze PSU. Some people say that there is not a big difference between the efficiencies of the Gold and Bronze PSUs, however others state that a Bronze PSU will increase the amount of heat in the PC by a large amount, which will result in the PC being a lot noisier (due to the case fans working faster/harder). These are the two PSUs(/Builds): Corsair CSM 650W 80+ Gold PSU (£70) - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/PR46tJ Corsair CXM 450W 80+ Bronze PSU (£49) - https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/3sWWqk PC Uses: Gaming (CSGO, Overwatch, GTA V and Skyrim), Photoshop, Illustrator and Basic Video Editing. Budget: Maximum Budget - £1000 Preferable Budget - £900 Country: UK Gaming Settings: 1080p // at least 60 fps // high settings. Thank you. Have a good day.

I've been searching for the IDEAL clicky gaming switch. I love the feel of a clicky switch but I don't want to sacrifice in-game responsiveness. For those of you who have used the Kailh Speed Bronze, would you recommend it over other clicky switches (for both gaming and typing)?

There is a "bug" in the "IKEA Video. " The Swedish pronouncements for the Ikea furnitures, Its was not entertaining to watch. I get the butchering of the names, but i think you get a few more likes if you get the pronouncements a little better. According to The Foreign Service Institute of the U.S. Department of State, Swedish is in fact on of the easier languages to learn. Good news! If you are a native English speaker, it should take you approximately 575-600 class hours to learn Swedish to a proficient level. 8 jan. 2019 Here is a Link @LinusTech (sorry if I tagged/annoyed you) "Swedish Courses" https://www.folkuniversitetet.se/Kurser--Utbildningar/Sprakkurser/Svenska_Swedish/Distanskurser/individual-teaching-in-swedish-through-skype/ Course Content The content is based on the needs analysis Pronunciation Grammar Listening comprehension Confidence in speaking Swedish Vocabulary of your interest Learning about Swedish culture -- By the Way check Louis Rossmann video "STOP USING PAYPAL NOW" Dont know how many refund you guys do.

hello im looking for a power supply so far i have these 2 https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-100-W1-0500-KR-WHITE-Warranty-Supply/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=sr_1_35?s=electronics&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1538014878&sr=1-35&keywords=corsair+power+supply&refinements=p_85%3A5690392011 and https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-BRONZE-Supply-Warranty-100-B1-0500-KR/dp/B00DZ6R9GE/ref=sr_1_48?s=electronics&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1538014878&sr=1-48&keywords=corsair+power+supply&refinements=p_85%3A5690392011 is the 80 plus bronze worth the extra 15$ or is the 80 plus white fine? or would it be worth it to drop 50w down and get this bronze power supply https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01N9X3F8F/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1

Hello guys one question What it means for example 80 plus bronze vs 80 plus gold what is the gold and bronze ?? What is better ? Thanks

Hey guys, i was wondering wether gold powersupplys are mor edurable than broonze ones and if they last longer. thanks for your answers.

Hi all. So I've recently been browsing 80+ gold PSUs out of boredom and I happened to notice there are just as many 80+ golds as there are bronzes, with the rare silver now and then. This made me question if there's any sort of electricity savings from these tiers. Is there any sort of major electricity bill savings from going for a bronze model vs gold? I use my PC for 4-8 hours a day and I own an 80+ bronze PSU, would I benefit in terms of power usage from converting to a gold-rated PSU? I don't think it's likely I'll swap PSUs but if I do, it'll be a 550W, 80+ gold, fully-modular PSU such as the Corsair RM550X, but I'm still happy with my 450W grey-label CX model, so again, unlikely.

hi , im building a pc that have a ryzen 2700x and an asus strix 1080 what psu should i go with ? i found one witch is corsair tx550m 80+ gold for a really good 44$ deal would be enough for my build ?

does it mtter what type of power supply i get, like if its bronze, silver, or gold, because my friend told me to get either the gold or silver, but they cost too much, does it really mater

as like the title says, do i really need a good psu for gaming and preventing my house get burnt? or is just another commercial rumor? also, does buying a cheap psu short my components lifespan? my build: http://es.pcpartpicker.com/user/Blackhole890/saved/YC2Qzy its 40-50€ overbudged so if is that important to buy a good psu, i can wait for it

What are some good budget friendly PSU's? My build is" I5-4690k(planning on overclocking) some Z97 mobo Gigabyte Windforce R9 280x 8GB Corsair DDR3 1600mhz ram 120gb SSD I need a good 500-650W power supply, what are some good PSU's in a budget price point. I prefer blacked out wiring but doesnt have to, modular or not doesnt matter either. Thanks (I got ny eyes on the ThermalTake Smart Standard 550W PSU, is this good for 65$ CAD?)

Hey guys, I'm doing a budget build with an AMD x4 860k and a gtx 750 and I have two option for the power supply... First option : 550w 80+ (Gigabyte Odin Pro - GE-M550A-D1) Second option 450w 80+ Bronze (Gigabyte Pulse - GZ - EFS45A-C3) I was wondering i someone knew what would be my best option.

Hey guys, I'm here to ask about the difference between the 80+ Bronze and the 80+ Gold certifications. I'm asking this because I've seen really good builds with Xeons, R9 290X's, 128GB of RAM, and a ton of other great stuff, and then I take a look at their power supply and I see an 80+ Bronze PSU. I mean, surely you'd see an 80+ Gold certification in there somewhere right? Does the Bronze certification actually make a difference in good builds when compared to an 80+ Gold PSU? For example, my near future upgrade will be a Xeon processor, an extra stick of RAM (16GB after the upgrade) and a motherboard. Will it put the system in danger if I put an 80+ Bronze PSU in the system? Or is it safer to go with 80+ Gold?

All the time I'll see people recommend PSUs based on efficiency. This, although fundamentally a good idea so that you don't end up with a stick and some chewing gum powering your system, shows that most do not understand what 80 PLUS efficiency implies. Let's get a couple myths out of the way: - "A higher 80 PLUS rating correlates to better quality." Incorrect. Certain components in a PSU do need to be of a certain quality to achieve higher efficiency (typically MOSFETs and diodes), however, quality of soldering, certain capacitors, etc, can be forgone in achieving an exemplary 80 PLUS rating. Electrical performance can be ditched as well. I like to use the EVGA G1 as an example of this. It's made of above average componentry, performs lackingly, and achieves gold efficiency. Then there's the EVGA B2, which is constructed about as well, performs better electrically, and advertises 80 PLUS Bronze efficiency (it actually achieves 80 PLUS Silver efficiency but that standard has been given up by and large). The EVGA B2 is a better PSU than the G1, yet it wastes slightly more electricity. This will correlate to a marginally more expensive power bill (pennies on the dollar for most home users) but ensures you a better power supply for your money. If, however, you plan to run a very power-hungry system for several hours on end then a more efficient power supply can save a more noticeable amount of money, especially if used heavily during hours of the day where electricity is more expensive. On another note: some brands will undersell their unit's rated wattage if it can achieve higher efficiency at lower loads, I.E. a brand may sell a 550W 80 PLUS Platinum rated unit that can actually output 600W+ but would have to be advertised at a lower efficiency rating if they were to sell it at that rated wattage. - "Higher 80 PLUS efficiency keeps the PSU cooler." Not to any serious degree, but this is technically true. A less efficient PSU will waste more electricity and wasted electricity is turned into heat. This is not likely to have an appreciable impact on the temperature of your room or system however as your system doesn't really draw that much power, thus it's better to optimize your system's airflow before throwing an AX1500i in your system to minimize heat created by the power supply. Since PSUs exhaust heat anyways the temperature of your system's hardware will not be impacted to any noticeable degree. Different PSUs also handle cooling differently and 80 PLUS efficiency doesn't correlate to the size of the fan used or the heat-dissipation abilities of the unit. - "Power supplies are most efficient at around 50% load." This is, by and large, untrue, and seems to be set in stone by many simply because the peak efficiency measured by Ecova's testing of just three load levels is at 50% always. Many manufacturers or reviewers test PSU efficiency at different loads and post charts online, if this matters to you, but many PSUs are more efficient at 60% load than 50% and many are more efficient towards 30%. Don't buy a PSU based on how efficient it will be with whatever hardware you have in it. Different topologies and different PSU platforms handle efficiency differently. This should be a non-issue and you should be looking at buying the best PSU you can get with your money. - "If you have a 1000W PSU with an 80% efficiency then you are only going to be able to get 800W from your power supply." This is incorrect. If you have an 80% efficient 1000W PSU then, when putting it under enough load to max its output you are going to be drawing more power from the walls - not losing output from your power supply. In this instance, putting a 1000W PSU under max load with an 80% efficiency would mean you're drawing 1250 watts from the wall. Math goes as such: X / Y= Z 1000W / .80 = 1250 1250W drawn from the wall X represents the wattage you're using (say 350W with a Ryzen 7 3700X and RTX 2080 Super under 100% system load), Y represents the efficiency in decimals (an 85% efficient PSU would be .85), and Z represents your total system draw from the wall. For this calculation we're assuming that the PSU in question has exactly enough wattage to power the system at 100% load and is 87% efficient at 100% draw, making it an 80+ Gold efficient power supply. So in our case with the 3700X and 2080 Super: 350 / .87 = 402 watts drawn from your power outlet Note, however, that efficiency is not consistent throughout the load of the power supply. Power supplies are more and less efficient at different loads. They are also more efficient when connected to a more powerful grid, the 230V nominal, which you may use if you don't live in North America. Check that your PSU allows for operation under both voltages. Most modern ones switch operation automatically. Other, often older units, will have a hard switch at the back of the unit to switch to choose from either 115V or 230V (note, DO NOT SWITCH TO THE ONE THAT DOESN'T MATCH THE ELECTRICAL OUTPUT OF YOUR WALL OUTLET! This doesn't usually end well!). This graph demonstrates the efficiency curve of a 2011-era Corsair TX750 when plugged into a 115V AC versus being plugged into a 230V AC. Note the TX750 is an 80+ Bronze rated PSU. If you live in the United States, for example, you are using a 110-120V (115 nominal) AC through a standard NEMA 5-15 socket. Your power supply may be more or less efficient than your manufacturer claims because they may advertise efficiency through a 230V AC, though standard 80 PLUS efficiency testing is done on a 115V AC. Note that these tests for efficiency are also done under very specific test environments and do not necessarily reflect real-world scenarios so you may achieve higher or lower efficiency than rated by the manufacturer. And just to finish up let's go list the various 80 PLUS ratings and their efficiency at different power draws on a 115V and 230V AC as well as 230V AC redundant. Note that Silver isn't really used anymore and the efficiency of a PSU that would achieve Silver certification would typically just be rounded up or down to Bronze or Gold. "230V internal redundant" refers to efficiency in a redundant scenario like in a data center. This guy from Dell explains it. One last thing I want to make a little more hard-hitting here. 80 PLUS efficiency ratings were invented to save corporations and industrial services money in the long-term, not home users! A company with 1000 computers all consuming 100W for 10 hours a day will see a much greater benefit from having all 80 PLUS Titanium units in their systems than you likely would with your system. Don't spend tons of money trying to get a super efficient PSU when a PSU that's just as good, costs less, and achieves a tier lower 80 PLUS rating is drastically cheaper. Resources: Ecova (formerly Ecos), the 80 PLUS certification founder (and located very near me in Portland!) Wikipedia - There's more info here if you want to go down the Wikipedia rabbit hole Plug Load Solutions - A list of all PSU companies and how many different PSUs they have that achieve Ecova's various 80 PLUS standards.