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Hey y’all, just looking for some PSU advice here! I’ve got parts coming in for a music production / 3d rendering / gaming build as follows: Intel i9 14900k PNY Verto XLR8 OC RTX 4090 (450w limit) G Skill Ripjaws 2x32GB 6400 Arctic Freezer II 420mm AIO (top exhaust) 2TB Samsung M2 4TB Samsung M2 4TB Samsung SSD 3x 140mm Corsair front intake 1x 140mm Corsair Elite exhaust 4x 120mm Phanteks T30 side intake Arctic 10x fan hub Corsair 7000D Airlflow I’m looking for a reliable PSU for this build even after scouring the net as one does. I’ve got a be quiet! Dark Power 13 1000W on the way as it is an “A tier” PSU and found it at a good price. Since ordering, I read up on voltage spikes and the 1.5x (or +50% GPU) wattage overhead recommendation. My question is: am I good with the 1000w ATX 3.0 Titanium rated PSU that I’ve already purchased? Calculators suggest my components draw a peak 900~1000W, and I could only envision that scenario for rendering (and obv benchmarks) which would be my use case maybe 5% of the time. My understanding is that the ATX 3.0 handles the potential transients even though my particular GPU is limited to 450w. Will the Titanium put me in good hands with its higher efficiency at higher loads or should I opt for 1200/1300/1500W? I have had my eye on the Corsair HX1500i as well as the RM1200x Shift as they are higher wattage, both ATX 3.0, and have a similar 10 year warranty like the be quiet! I have on the way. That said, these are lower efficiency if that matters much; I’ve heard it doesn’t. Thanks for any and every insight! H

Hello, I have searched for several hours for the best budget case under 150$. I am between the Pure Base 500FX and the Meshify 2 Compact. I know that Pure Base case has an RGB controller and the other doesn't. There is also a RGB version of Meshify 2 Compact but it is much more expensive. I like RGB but for me RGB is not a priority to choose a pc case. I choose the 500 FX over the 500 DX since the price difference is only $25. What is important to me is the build quality, the airflow, the temperatures and the noise (less priority than others 3). Which of the two cases do you think is better?

I find Be Quiet! Be quiet Straight Power 11 and Pure Power 12 M of 850W at the same price. As stated on Be Quiet! official site (see pics below), the Straight Power 11 is a more premium category, has a bigger and quieter fan, while the Pure Power 12 M is a more recent model with support for ATX 3.0 and PCIE 5.0. I know that these features are not very important at the moment, but I want my build to last over time. These characteristics of Pure Power 12 M will be necessary in the future and will be needed to upgrade again my PSU in 3-4 years ? Which of the two models do you recommend? The pc specs for the build I will make are: CPU: I5-13400 MOBO: MSI PRO Z690-A WIFI RAM: 16GB DDR5 GPU: RTX 4060 (when released)

Hi all (first time poster) Looking for help, just set up a new machine. Here are some details on the build: be Quiet Silent Base 802 Asus B550-E mobo Ryzen 5 3600 Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32 GB 3600mhz (4 stick of 8 GB) Gigabyte 1050 ti I've got the 3 140mm Pure Wings 2 fans that come with the case all connected to the included fan hub on the back of the case, the fan hub is connected to SATA for power and plugged into Chassis Fan 3 PWM header. I have other 120mm fans (all coolermaster sickleflow PWM) plugged into the other Chassis fan headers and the CPU and CPU OPT fan headers, so nothing else is connected to the fan hub except for those three Pure Wings 2 140mm fans. What I've noticed is that the fan speed on the 3 Pure Wings 2 fans is pretty constant at 475-ish RPM all the time - never changes, while all the other fans have increased their RPMs during gaming/testing (like Cinebench) and then decreased when the CPU cools down. I went into the BIOS and and all the fans are set at PWM and when I change the setting in the BIOS (for example, set the fans to 100%), all of the 120MM fans go to 100% RPM. But there is no change (that I can hear) on the Pure Wings 2 fans. I manually set those Pure Wings 2 fans on Chassis fan 3 to 100% (which seems to change it to DC?) and then booted into the OS. When I go into HWMonitor, it still just shows at 475-ish RPMs. I know that the Pure Wings 2 140mm fans max out at 900 RPM but I can't get them to do it. Am I doing something wrong or is that how it is supposed to be? Thanks, Tom

Hey everyone! I recently made a new build and I have a Lian Li Lancool II Mesh Performance, so far no complaints other than the fans which rattle like crazy so I'll be upgrading them. Basically I've looked at either the NF-A14 and the Silent Wings 3 (PWM) and I have no idea which to buy. I treasure silence a lot since I have quite sensitive ears, so if any of you could tell me which one of those is a better choice for silence i'd be extremely grateful! If there are other models that suit my needs and that can be bought from amazon.es then feel free to recommend them to me

Hey Guys! So I recently built my first PC and I just wanted get opinions on fan configurations for my build. I currently have all 140mm fans (2 x Noctua NF A14 Fans - Used as Front Top Intake and Back Top Exhaust, 3 x Pure Wings (that came with the case) - 1 Back Exhaust & 2 Front Intake). As for the CPU cooler, I have the Noctua NH -U12S with one fan set in pull configuration. With this current set up, I get the below temps: With the mesh top off of my case GPU idle temp = 30 C to 35 C CPU idle temp = 38 C to 48 C Whilst Playing Battlefield V GPU Temp = 48 C to 55 C CPU Temp = 58 C to 61 C (CPU Temps spike between 60 C to 71 C at certain times while gaming, but goes back down to 60 C) I just feel like the CPU temps could be a bit better. I'm not sure if it's due to my current fan configuration or the thermals from my RTX 3080 FE is affecting it as well. I did try the configuration that the Hardware Canucks suggested and had 4 140mm intake fans (2 Front and 2 top) and 1 140mm exhaust fan (back). I did receive better CPU temps, but my GPU temps suffered and climbed to about 80 C on certain benchmarks. I also tried 2 140 mm front intake fans and 1 140mm back exhaust (All Pure Wings Fans) and had decent temps for the GPU, but fairly high temps for my CPU (The highest I saw it go was about 80C) Any kind of help would be appreciated. My Build Specs: GPU: RTX 3080 FE CPU: Ryzen 7 3800X MoBo: MSI X470 Gaming Plus Case: be quiet! Pure Base 500DX PSU: Seasonic Focus GX 850W

I have been looking on the market for a while and kind of been flip flopping around not being able to make up my mind trying to decide on new parts. So I waited to have a better budget and settled on 5800x and a new Mobo with a bit of flexibility for extra things. That's fine in all however I noticed I probably won't have a lot of headroom when it comes to the cooler (not wanting liquid cooled btw). It looks like the case I have has a maximum cooler height of 150mm but I am a bit stuck for choice finding the right thing for it. I was looking at the "Noctua NH-U9S" and seems to be quite small in height however it specifies on the site low turbo / low overclocking. Not sure how this translates to stock clock speeds but im sure that would be fine. Even if I potentially dip the voltage a little bit. Or I could go for a little bit more out of my budget for a "DARK ROCK TF 2" which is 134mm height, an overall better product and is compatible with the mobo. The obvious winner out of the two would be DARK ROCK but wanted to know if there are any other contenders under this size constraint as I haven't bought an after market cooler before. I do have another larger case with an older build in it that I can definitely fit a larger sized cooler in, however the current PC sits pretty much flush where it is now so I do wan't to keep this case because of that **Budget (including currency):** £50 - £80 **Country:** UK **Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for:** Programming, Gaming / VR, streaming, 3D usage & productivity use **Other details** (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): AMD Ryzen 7 5800X MSI MAG B550M MORTAR / Wifi Corsair CC-9011075-WW Carbide Series 100R

I purchased this case on Amazon for $107.89 on February 9, 2022. I was planning on buying NZXT H510 Flow, but I decided against it because I have an MSI GeForce RTX 3080 Ti 12 GB GAMING X TRIO. The length of the GPU is 324 mm (12.76"L x 5.51"H). I was unsure if the case would accommodate this GPU, therefore, I began searching for another case that wasn't too expensive. This case was listed as being 450mm in length, and it was highly rated on Amazon, so I went for it. https://imgur.com/hJwn1c6 For the most part, I agree that the case is excellent. The build quality is solid, the airflow is very good. It also accommodates a 280mm radiator quite easily. I did not have any issue mounting it on the front with fans pushing outside air onto the radiator (push config). https://imgur.com/1JIzidf https://imgur.com/InD8waQ https://imgur.com/TU4ykxj To get RGB lighting to work, there is a SATA connector that needs to be plugged in to a SATA power cable from the PSU. Provided the front panel is in place, this should make the base RGB effects to work without the need of any software. This is excellent because I do not want to install RGB software to control the case lighting. The out of the box effects are very nice. However, I did have an issue getting all this to work. After I finished the assembly, RGB lighting wouldn't work. I checked the SATA power cable, and everything seemed fine. I thought something was wrong with the front panel (more on that in a bit). I contacted the support fully expecting them to give me some generic answer. https://imgur.com/Yq6ImCT I was pleasantly surprised when they responded and were actually helpful. The issue was with the connector on the back of the front I/O; this was not fully plugged in. I had to push it into place and that did the trick. https://imgur.com/rjaCAVw https://imgur.com/xnGwPdj As far as the performance goes, absolutely no complaints here. The fans are very quiet and even under heavy load, I wouldn't say the fans are loud. The case allows for excellent airflow, and the dust filters are much appreciated. Temperatures in idle can vary anywhere from 29C to 35C depending on the ambient temperature, and how long I have been gaming etc. I am quite happy with this. I certainly do not regret buying this case, but I have two big issues, and I might have reconsidered this case had I known about these. Removing the front panel is a pain. There are no screws holding it in place, instead its held in place by a notches on either side, and the panel needs to be yanked hard by pulling at the bottom. This is just not good design in my opinion. For a case that costs over $100, I would have expected a better way to hold the front panel. The second issue is the length of the case. While the case is barely spacious enough to accommodate as MSI GeForce RTX 3080 Ti 12 GB GAMING X TRIO. There is not enough clearance between the GPU and the radiator to mount a fan on the radiator. For this reason, I had to switch the position of the fans and mount them on the front frame of the case. Its not a big deal, but a full push pull configuration is not possible. There is only enough room for one fan in the pull config. https://imgur.com/mbnMFuu The height of the case prevents me from mounting two exhaust fans on the top of the case; the tubing from the radiator uses all the room needed for one fan, therefore I only mount one top exhaust fan. So now, I am left with a spare 140mm fan, and I decided to mount it on the radiator to pull air out. So I now have a full push, and half pull config. Not ideal, but it works just fine. https://imgur.com/kPxMZ76 In addition to this, there is not enough room to mount a mechanical hard drive in the case. This is because while there is a mounting tray in the bottom of the case that is specifically designed for mechanical hard drives, I had to disconnect that to route PSU cables. I tried my best with PSU cable management, but I failed. Therefore, if you intend to use a mechanical hard drive, this is something you will want to consider. I am kicking myself for not having come across the be quiet! Pure Base 600, which seems perfect for my build. Its even more painful considering its $10 cheaper at the time of this writing.

This is gonna be a lot, but bear with me, please. So, as the title suggests, I bought the 850w straight power 11 for my system. Cpu is ryzen 5800x, gpu is aorus 3080 xtreme, which is a three 8-pin card. Here is some info on the psu: It comes with two seperate 6+2 PCIe cables, and one dual 6+2 cable that is split down the middle, like this: It has a 12-pin side that goes into the psu: (as opposed to the single 6+2 cables, which have 8 pins on the psu side.) That cable is an extra be quiet! sent me. I asked for another single, but got a double . The stock cable is completely wrapped in sleeving and looks like this one, below, but split and with dual connections, of course. Anyway, I plugged in the dual cable to the first PCIe slot on the psu, and a single cable on the third, as suggested in the manual. When shining a light around, I noticed the dual cable's pins (left) seem to show silver color, whereas the single's (right) show copper? Sorry for the blur in the second photo, but you can better see the difference in color. I confirmed that the other single cable's pins looks copper, as well. Does this speak to the quality of the cables/pins? Be quiet! said it was safe to power my 3080 with a dual and single...and there are also several other folks who have three 8-pin gpu's with this same psu who are running completely fine on the dual cable + one single, but I'm paranoid. I don't want my cables melting, or something! I also noticed that all PCIe cables are labeled as 18g, and I read that 16g is safer for dual cables. Would it be better to use the dual 6+2 with one 6+2 connection dangling, and then the two single 6+2? Would that mess with balancing the load on the PCIe rails? Is it safe to use the dual cable at all?? Am I way overthinking this? (Most likely...) If you made it this far, thank you. I'm an incredibly anxious person, so if anyone can help me out, I would really appreciate it. (I'm on my phone, and can't figure out how to remove these dumb spoiler boxes I accidentally added, lmao)

Hey guys could do with your help on this one. My gaming rig needs a new home (case).. but torn between 2 cases need some help looked at reviews on both and I want to know what would be best suited. Narrowed it down to 2 cases Phanteks P500A or Be Quiet! 802 windowed (both white variant), although would be open to other airflow cases if similar. I am looking to go into watercooling in the near future for both cpu and gpu. Not fussed about the RGB most of the time its off when I'm working or gaming, but for those who wish to know colour scheme it is white with purple and hint of black. my build currently is: z390 aorus master i9-9900k Deepcool Castle 280 AiO aorus 2080ti xtreme 32gb (8GBx4, 3600mhz) dominator SP 512gb m.2 crucial 2tb ssd rm850x (white cable extensions) Case: note sure, but very similar to PC Specialist Apollo Zen

Hi there, I've always been able to use the LTT forums to fix some of my problems, but I think the issue I'm having is extremely unique and I cannot seem to find a solution. Here are my specs: AMD Ryzen 9 3900X ASUS ROG Strix X570-E G.SKILL Trident Z NEO Series 32GB DDR4 3600MHz RAM Asus ROG STRIX 2080 SUPER Corsair MP600 PCIe NVMe 2TB Be Quiet! Straight Power 11 850W PSU I created a new AMD build at the beginning of September. The night prior to the unit failing, I was playing Rocket League with my buddies. I powered off the unit and went to bed when I was done. When I returned to my PC the next day, I noticed that the motherboard lights and keyboard was not lit up. This was about three weeks after I completed my build. Since my motherboard would not turn on (no spinning fans, no ambient lights, etc), my first thought was that my PSU already failed (Be Quiet! Straight Power 11 850W), so I took an ITX NZXT H1 PSU (Seasonic rebrand - from the NZXT H1 case) and powered up my PC without a problem. Just to be certain, I also temporarily purchased a Corsair RM750X and confirmed that it powered up the unit. I even did the paperclip tests on the Be Quiet! and the fan did not turn on. Overall: Be Quiet! PSU failed to turn on the motherboard after only three weeks Unfortunately, since I didn't have the box and original contents of the Be Quiet! PSU, I could not return it to the retailer so I had to issue an RMA with Be Quiet! I spent $60 to send the PSU down to California (from Canada) where they tested the unit on their bench. Be Quiet! sent me pictures of the PSU drawing 850W and told me that the unit was working. I asked them to plug the PSU into an actual motherboard (maybe an X570 like mine) but they insisted that the PSU booted up without a problem. Just to be certain, they sent the unit back with new cables. I received the unit last Thursday, and plugged in the 24-pin, 8-pin CPU, and PCIe GPU cables. I turned the switch on at the back of the PSU and nothing lit up. No power - just like before and it still would not turn the motherboard on. I plugged my Corsair back in and the unit powered on like before. I've been reaching out to Be Quiet! with the issue and they are not helping me. They've offered to replace the unit with a new one and I have to send back the defective one. If they receive my unit and it works on their tech bench, they will charge me for a new unit ($240 CDN). They also recommended that I find someone who knows how to build computers to test the unit. As if building 15 computers isn't enough... How am I supposed to have faith in their tech bench if they sent me back a unit that's defective? TL:DR Had a PSU work for three weeks. Motherboard would not power on after an overnight shutdown. Replaced with new PSU and powered up the unit without fault. Sent "defective" PSU to manufacturer. Manufacturer said the unit draws 850W and works. Received PSU back from manufacturer. Plugged PSU into build and it won't power up the motherboard again. Replacement PSU still powers on motherboard. Manufacturer offers to replace unit with ridiculous condition. Has anyone had this problem at all? Why is one PSU not working and the other isn't? Any suggestions for diagnosing this problem? Am I being sewered?

Where i live (Norway) Noctua NH-U12S chromax.black goes for 95 USD and be quiet! Dark Rock 4 goes for 90 USD. Is there any major differences i should keep in mind when i choose between these two? Does anyone have experiences with any of these.

Hello everyone, I come here to ask you about the compatibility between 2 parts for the rig i'm currently building (on internet for now, i'm only choosing the parts at the moment) 1. Budget & Location I'm aiming for a build under 2200€ (without the GPU). I'm from France. 2. Aim Gaming and sometimes 3D animation. I'm also aiming for a PC that can last YEARS like the i'm using right now. 3. Monitors 2 monitors. 4. Peripherals Already have Keyboard, mouse and will buy Windows with the new rig. 5. Why are you upgrading? I'm upgrading because my actual PC is now 10 years old. It does what i want, for now, but not in max settings and i just want some fresh air. Just in case, here are the parts i'm aiming for : CPU : Intel core I7 13700k Cooler : Be Quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 Motherboard : Gigabyte Z790 AORUS ELITE AX RAM : Corsair Vengeance DDR5 32 Go (2 x 16 Go) 5600 MHz CL36 GPU : Not changing now, i'm waiting the RTX 4070... SSD : Samsung SSD 980 PRO M.2 PCIe NVMe 1 To (Maybe the new 990) Case : Be Quiet! Silent Base 802 PSU : Be Quiet! Straight Power 11 1200W Platinum So, now THE question... Will the Dark Rock Pro 4 be compatible with the Gigabyte Z790 AORUS ELITE AX motherboard? Edit : I mean, in SIZE. I know i can mount it on the LGA 1700 socket, but i would like to know if it can fit on the motherboard... I already asked directly to Be Quiet! but they didn't have the answer because the motherboard is too recent... Thanks in advance for your help, and sorry if there is some bad english in here.

This mod is going to be built for the occasion, I've already sent the righthand side panel off to be cut, this will be done with a water jet and all going to plan it should have the 20th Anniversary logo perfectly cut, this part is painful as it's out of my hands. I will then be adding frosted acrylic to the panel and lighting for the effect, I may go for a slightly tinted frosted window yet, the more I think about it the more I realise it is in keeping with the glass panel on the lefthand side. Once I have received the panel, I will then need to decide what I'm actually doing with the case as the panel will need a respray and I don't have the colour be quiet! use to paint their cases so the whole thing will be painted or other... If I go the route of painting I'll using a classic gun metal grey. I'm also adding the 20th Anniversary logo on the PSU shroud in the form off clear acrylic along with an orange colour acrylic version, one will be placed on top of the other to give a raised/3D effect. 20th Anniversary logo Parts list Ryzen 5700G Gigabyte B550 Aorus Elite AX V2 Muskin Redline Lumia 2x 8gb 4133mhz - Changed to T-Force Xtreem 4133mhz 2x 8gb Kingston KC3000 1Tb NVMe be quiet! Pure Base 500FX be quiet! Pure Power 11 FM 550w be quiet! Pure Loop 2 FX 360mm To be added shortly after Gigabyte 6650XT Windforce.

hi guys, im thinking on buying an aio for my core i5-12600k, and since i already have the be quiet bracket for lga1700 im thinking on the pure loop series, but i can´t find any info about temps of these coolers on 12th gen, any of you have one already in a cpu of thata generation? how are temps? it is worth it? thank you for the help at the time i have an pure rock 2 black from my older system

I recently bought the be quiet silent loop 2 280mm AIO and forgot to check if it fits in the top of my current case (and it doesn't). While the AIO would fit in the front, I wanna use this as an excuse to get a new case. I really like the Pure Base 500DX but I'm unsure whether the AIO fits in the top of that case or not and I don't actually know what to look for on that. Does it fit or not? If not what other cases could I buy or what do I have to look for?

Hai, I just bought Be Quiet Pure Rock Slim 2. I bought it because I want a quieter cooler than AMD stock cooler. But the performance isn't as I expected. I watched Youtube reviews, and they says it can reach like 30 something degrees on idle. And some load test can reach around 70 something degrees. So, I have a new Ryzen 7 5700x. not overcloacked. But the temperature on my Ryzen Master app/software indicates a 50 more less degrees on idle. The UEFI is even more extreme by showing 60 something degrees. I don't know who's right. I did mix the thermal paste between the pre-applied with my own. Cos I didn't know it was pre-applied initially, and I put the cooler on the table. and so some of the thermal paste is on the table. Is this the problem, or something else? Man, 50 degrees is like the same temperature of my stock cooler with my old ryzen 5 3600G. Is the perfomance of the this cooler normal? Is there any settings I should know?

What's better and what should I choose from these two? Both at 500w. Pure power 11 75€ and system power 9 67€. Tbh I don't really care for the semi modular of the system power 9 but the standard version isn't available.

Hey I want to buy me the Aorus Z390 Pro WiFi and want to ask if someone can tell me the max current on the Fan Headers because I can't find anything about the ampere per header in the downloadable Manual. Next I want to ask if I can connect the Fans and the AIO as follows: SYS_FAN1: 2x be quiet! Silent Wings 3 120mm PWM high-speed (with EKWB PWM Splitter cable) SYS_FAN2: 2x be quiet! Silent Wings 3 120mm PWM high-speed (with EKWB PWM Splitter cable) SYS_FAN3: 2x be quiet! Silent Wings 3 120mm PWM high-speed (with EKWB PWM Splitter cable) SYS_FAN4: - SYS_FAN5_PUMP: - SYS_FAN6_PUMP: AIO Pump (AIO should be the EKWB EK-AIO 360 D-RGB) CPU_FAN: 2x be quiet! Silent Wings 3 120mm PWM high-speed for the AIO (with EKWB PWM Splitter cable) instead of the RGB Fans CPU_OPT: 1x be quiet! Silent Wings 3 120mm PWM high-speed for the AIO

As it says in the title the bottom fan of my dark rock tf doesn’t spin. I was wondering why this may be I just installed it. PC SPECS - i5-8400 (soon to be i7-9700k) - EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 3gb (soon to be GeForce RTX 2070 super) - 2x8gb 2666mhz ddr4 ram - ASRock B360M Xtreme (you won’t be able to find this motherboard anywhere but i have read that apparently it is similar or the exact same as the ASRock B360M Pro4) - Cooler Master MasterWatt Lite 230V 600W 80+ PSU (will be upgrading to a 650W 80+ Titanium PSU) also should I upgrade my motherboard? (I have done a bios update to my B360M motherboard so it is compatible with the i7-9700k)

Or would they do something like cherry MX reds? or use a different key switch for low-noise keystrokes?

So I was wondering if I use a noctua LNA (Low Noise adapter) on a be quiet! silent wings 3 (140mm) what would then be the RPM of that fan? The fan normally runs at 1000 rpm. Is there a simple formula to use to find out for other fans too?

I'm considering the Phanteks Enthoo Luxe (the tempered glass version), and I know it can support either a 200mm fan, or 2x120mm/140mm fans on the front intake. (you can do 3x120mm if you remove the optical drive bays, but being as I may use those at some point in the future, and it seems like all I would be doing is choking the third fan, Im not really considering that option.) Im looking for a general consensus as to which set up you would go with and why. This is actually my first build, and I want to make sure there is alot of airflow going threw this badboy.