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I'm looking to put something together soon and it will be my first custom loop. After some research I found that Barrow and Bykski are the two big water cooling brands in China and a loop can be comparable in price to a Lian Li Galahad 360 (or at least that's what I'm telling myself). I read it's recommended to get Barrow fittings and everything else from Bykski. Is this still the case? Are Barrowch 14*10 Normal temperature type PETG Tube blue safe to use? I read that adding colour to the liquid can result in sediment and gunk so this seems like a good solution. Reservoir pump combo (D5) vs Distroplate pump combo (DDC) - the distro plate looks good for routing. This price is similar so which is recommended? I read that D5 pumps are much more reliable but I see the distro pump combos are also pretty popular. I can also buy the distro plate without a pump if the D5 will be that much better. Some people were also recommending Laing/Xylem/Lowara DDC 18w pumps instead of the Granzon PWM DDC Add-on Pump with Digital Display 12V that can come with the distro plate? Link to the distro plate The specs of the Granzon PWM DDC pump are below. Specifications Material: Aluminum (not in contact with coolant) Pump Core: CP-D3PB-X RPM: 1800-4800 Power: DC12v Flow Rate: 700L/h Head: 6M Connector: 4-Pin Molex and PWM+ data feedback
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Disclaimer i will not be held responsible for any damages and im not a professional do it at your own risk. well this is a pin out guide for corsair, lianli, bykski, barrow, thermaltake, nzxt, and aquacomputer. hopefully i got the pins right. i have bought nzxt, thermaltake argb , cooler master rgb and argb, aquacomputer rgb and argb, zalman argb , razer argb controllers as well to find out how the pin out works. your welcome! ek argb controller looks interesting too but i think it uses standard connectors and asus controller well its just down right expensive... because asus.(think asus rog is discontinued now) my any thing rgb links Lian li: uses a 3pin jst-sm connector Byksk:Jst 2.0 PH 4pin to 2+1 3pin argb connector ( some of there stuff come with an adapter to go from byksk to 3pin argb connector. you can also buy the adapter cable by it self. also there a big and small hub) Barrow: uses a stander 3pin fan connector (do not connect to an mb 3/4pin fan header!) Thermaltake: standard(10pin/8pin/4pin/2/1Dupont connector) 5pin internal usb header will work too depending on if you want the argb or fan. looks like standard 9pin usb extensions have a pin revered. you can also buy a thermaltake to 2+1 mb header controller. NZXT: it uses jst 2.0 ph connectors. the fan out has a different 4pin locking connector witch i don't no what it is?.(i think i found it 4 pin pico clasp cable) socket Aquacomputer: uses the Mini Micro 1.25mm JST connector EK-Loop Connect: (I think uses the standard 2+1 connectors?) EK-Loop review....its bad....dont buy! Zalman Z SYNC: uses standard 2+1 connectors (4amps max rgb) dont buy dose not work! ASUS ROG Aura Terminal: (I think uses the standard 2+1 connectors?) discontinued Razer Chroma Addressable RGB Controller: uses standard 2+1 connector Lian li uni Argb Controller: (I think uses the jst-sm connector?) Corsair: connectors uses 3pin and 4pin connectors. they are called many names so its hard to look up. each web site might innovatory it with there own name and model number so. also there's a company called molex (not to confuse with the molex we all no on the psu) that has the patent to the "corsair" connector 2.54-03-FH 2543 MOLEX 2.54mm MX2.54 DuPont Belt Buckle 2.54mm JCORSAIR1 (this is what corsair calls there mb pcb mount header if your mb has an corsair connector...) Molex 50-57-9403 3pin male Molex 70107-0002 3pin female Molex 50-57-9404 4pin male Molex 70107-0003 4pin female locking DuPont my other post about corsair connectors: other custom corsair cables: My source for making the corsair master guide based off of connectors and cables: Master Barrow, Bykski, Lian li, Corsair, Thermaltake, Aquacomputer, Nzxt connector pin out guide:
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Hey, so I'm building a loop for my brother's PC. We're using an NZXT H200i, so to save space on the pump, we bought this combo https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10000411453657.html after Optimum Techs good review of it. However, the pump acts weirdly, for example, it just wont pump water most of the time. The motor is spinning, but it just doesn't push water. Then other times, it pumps but at a very slow flow. I say 10% of the time we could get it to spin normally. When it was in the system, tilting it to the front and power cycling a dozen times we got it to spin quickly as it should. When it spins quickly, the speed control and everything works. But after draining the loop, looking at the pump, and seeing nothing physically wrong, we can not get it to spin at the proper speed outside the case. I recorded a video of it spinning slowly, hence having bad flow and being quiet, and while the system was tilted and it going "fast". Sorry for the bad phone quality. Is this pump defective and we should return it? Thanks for the help. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gvFvfVuEYfc&ab_channel=Gecko.
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- water cooling
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So eventually finished my Watercooling system in the NZXT H1, Wasn't too bad Spec - Barrow Pump/Reservoir combo - LTPRPA-04 - EKWB Vector with back plate - Corsair XR5 280mm Radiator - Barrow 90 rotary fittings - Barrow 180 zigzag fittings (Radiator) - Mayhem 10/16 clear tubing - Mayhem X1 fluid - Arctic P14 fans Temps under load - 5600x - 55c - 3070FE - 60c Need to adjust the pump/fan speeds to get the best noise to cooling ratio so probably better temps soon
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Currently gathering the parts to water cool my rig in my NZXT H710i case, and decided to use a distro plate to help keep the tubing runs simple and clean. Found a Barrow distro plate at TitanRig and decided to make that my first purchase. I'm planning on using the EKWB DDC 4.2 pump to drive the whole thing but I'm not sure how I would integrate the pump to the plate. I've included a couple videos detailing what I think I understand about this distro plate.
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Hi guys, recently I've custom looped my PC using barrow water cooling components. Unfortunately I think I've done something really stupid and goosed my 2080 strix super when putting on the waterblock as since putting it into the loop it's not being detected by my asus X570-F. Power LEDs are white with both 8 pins in but the VGA Qled is white and no display. The PC works fine with a Quadro I had lying around. Could anyone help me please?
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- rtx2080super
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So guys im planning to do a full watercooled pc. So far these are the things i have decided Case Dark base 900 (Case received) Cpu Ryzen 1800x. (Waiting to receive my preorder unit) Fans Silent wings 3 120mm (Stock received) Okay i fcked up again. Since im so used to 120mm i literally taught the case support 480. I Even checked the website before for the radiator support and i dont understand how come i got confused with 420mm with 480mm. Im such an idiot. I asked my local shop to exchange 120mm with 140mm so problem solved. Rams Trident Z Rgb 4x8gb dual channel 3200mhz (Waiting stock getting it on march probably same time with ryzen) Ssd 2x 850 pro 512gb in hand and probably getting a 960 evo since supplier in my region still havent bring in stock for 960 pro Block Ekwb supremacy evo full nickel with am4 mount (For some reason ekwb say its free and add 0.01 for the additional mounts) (Ordered waiting shipment to arrive) Fittings Barrrow TYKN K-16 V1 Silver and Acrylic tubing (Ordered waiting shipment to arrive) Reservoir Singularity computers protium reservoir medium with D5 pump top and mod kit And i just realised i fck up when i checked my order and the ethereal dual reservoir mount wasn't listed in my order. First world problems people. (Need to reorder cause left out some parts) Ok reordered so problem solved Pump 2x Laing D5 (stock received) I still havent ordered my radiator because im not sure wt type radiator im going to use until i receive my case to take measurements. Roughly im planning a 480 at the top and front. Im borrowing some stuff from my friends like the heat gun, silicon insert, and bending kit. I have some experience with petg before but havent played with acrylic. So if my bends are bad pls advice me wts wrong. I still havent decided wt colour of loop should go into my build. I will update here after i receive my parts. I wished to get some tips and tricks how i see other build log u guys really take some great pictures. I have a sony rx 100 v but i dont know how to take great pictures with it. I have tried messing with the settings and manual mode but still doesnt turns out to be as good. Do u guys do some post processing on the pictures or u guys have some magic settings pls share with me since i would love to take some great shots too. Okay i have a question and this is important. If i run my pump configuration in series how do set it up. Is it as simple as 1st pump out to the 2nd pump inlet and 2nd pump out to the hardware and water flows back in to the 1st pump. Sorry if this question is silly i havent done pump configuration in series before just making sure.
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hello, i am looking to water cool a vega 64. the choices for water blocks are pretty slim. i can get an EK block for $130, and an aquacomputer block for $140. which is far more than i want to spend on a block. but i can also get a barrow block for about $85. therein lies my dilemma. any thoughts?
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I currently have a barrow pump and it sounds horrible. second replacement looking to keep the same Top and res combo i have but switch out the pump its self for say a alpha cool vpp655? they both look identical but without having both in front i just cant afford the $$ to get a alphacool d5 and not be able to use it! https://www.alphacool.com/shop/pumps/alphacool-pumps/10620/alphacool-vpp655-single-edition barrow has 2 links. first is the full unit with top http://www.barrowint.com/index.php/article/104.html second is the pump itself http://www.barrowint.com/index.php/article/82.html Note. i currently own a PWM pump but its running full speed due to no pump header on MB
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Most recent post - Hey Guys n' Gals. I'm in the midst of acquiring parts for a rig update, and seeing as I love watching these builds (and the ones on the YouTubes) take shape I figured it was time to throw my hat in the ring. This is only my third go at this whole PC Master Race thing, so please be gentle. My original build specs can be found here - https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/user/banana_havoc/saved/X6HXsY Originally this computer found a home in an NZXT Phantom 240 Case, which I had to modify because my beast of an air cooler scratched the acrylic panel going on and off. Swapping to 1/8 Plexi and installing it via allen screws to the exterior of the case classed it up a bit IMO and added a bit of room. But I still wasn't happy with the aesthetic, so it was soon binned for an equally expensive InWin 303 I picked up this Black Friday. The interior of which immediately got a nice coat of gloss white paint to give a little more pop. So eventually here we stand now, a decently quick (for me) AMD FX 8370 based system in a nice case on a nice desk in the space that is soon destined to be an office (aka we had kids and I lost my den...) And well. I had some cash kicking around and I'm already tired of a system I built a year ago. Needless to say, I went Boxing Day shopping. And some new toys entered the stable. For some reason though the 3000 mHz Team Dark ram was cheaper than the 2400 speeds and the Red varient was also cheaper than the grey, seeing as its going to find itself under a spray can, I wasn't overly concerned with the initial colour. There is also an NZXT Hue + and another Enermax TB Vegas fan (for the bottom slot under the fan controller)on the way as well. I held off on the CPU until we hear more on Kaby Lake. Seeing as the motherboard will support it with a BIOS update. if not I'll likely snag a 6700K if its still on sale. A good friend of mine is going to be the proud new owner of my previously mentioned FX-8370, 8 gb of HyperX Fury and MSI 970 Gaming AM3+ mb, and I need that cash to throw at the CPU. And the final build is going to stick to a Silver, White and Black colour scheme. Any suggestions are welcome, though I've been planning much of this pretty much since I finished my first foray into computer building. So far, here is the list as it stands - https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/user/banana_havoc/saved/JVGJxr Thanks for the interest and I'll toss more up as I get it! -bH
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- custom water cooling
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I just put together my first PC build and installed a Barrow Aurora LRC 2.0 RGB Waterblock on my CPU along with the required controller but the RGB is not working as intended. Instead of lighting up the default blue, the LEDs on the block blink red and do not respond to the remote (yes I put in a battery). I cannot find a manual anywhere for it to explain what the red flashing lights indicates either. Anyone have experience with RGB on Barrow products/controllers? Sorry if there is another thread on this. I am new to PC modding and the amount of information out there is daunting so I figured I'd ask those smarter than me. Specs: Mobo: ASUS Maximus Hero XI Wifi Block: Barrow Aurora LRC 2.0 RGB Energy Series CPU Waterblock for Intel X99 / X299 Controller: Barrow 8-Port RGB Light Controller
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Hey guys! I decided to build myself a new compact and nice looking PC for the comming years (hopefully ?). The system will be based around the Lian Li PC-O5SX case that I've already used once for another water cooling build. So I do have some experience with it. It's a very complicated case for water cooling and requires a decent amout of prep work (rotation fittings etc are needed.). Anyway... I just wanted to show you some fotos of my progress. The PSU sleeving was made by myself. I usually order the sleeves of AliExpress. They are cheap and good looking :) For water cooling I'm using mostly brands like Barrow and Bykski. Why? Because I've had nothing but great experiences with them this far. Bykski is kind of the only manufacturer with a nice looking VEGA 56 Nano water cooler. It will be a hard tube build with 14mm thick tubes. The radiator will be a EKWB 240mm SE and the pump is a Laing D5. Oh yeah... The PSU ?. The stock fan just had to go! It was such a stupid and loud sleeve bearing fan that I just couldn't leave it on there. So I replaced it with a much quieter BeQuiet Silent Wings 3 High Speed PWM fan, that will be controlled by my motherboard. Mainboard: ASUS B450I Strix Gaming CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 (-50mV undervolt) Ram: HyperX Predator RGB 3600Mhz at CL17 (Samsung B-Die), are tweaked to 3200Mhz CL14 with advanced subtimings though. Storage: Samsung 970 EVO 500GB GPU: Sapphire RX Vega 56 Pulse (I will undervolt it by quite a bit) PSU: Sharkoon SilentStorm SFX 500W (basically the same as the Silverstone one) Case: LianLi PC-O5SX
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Hello, As I'm slowly but surely scraping together parts for my first watercooling build using Barrows WaterWay in a Lian Li O11, which ironically LinusTechTips latest video featured this. When Barrow released these WaterWay blocks for some cases, they also released the pump SPB 17-T Plus to use with these blocks. Me being skeptical to Chinese electronics, wonder if it's possible to mount a D5 pump to the block using only a fitting, using this inlet or do I need the specific DDC pump from Barrow? Would this work or would the pump cause too much vibration/other side effects? Thanks in advance.
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PROJECT GREEN DRAGON Hi Guys! Here i present you again a another unique build with Jonsbo Mod1 open-frame chassis. As you might know that i have done the previous build with the same case, but in red&black color. This time I chose the same chassis with green&black color and planned a totally different loop.:). The color combination has gone well, although I’am not going to do the major changing with the chassis. Decided to leave the original paint. But, let see how the build process is going on. The components and the water cooling parts are as below. Will add if something changes or or missed out. COMPONENTS: MOTHERBOARD: MSI Z370 GAMING M5 Motherboard - Intel Z370 - Intel LGA1151 socket - DDR4 RAM - ATX RAMS: G. Skill Trident Z RGB 16GB DDR4 16GTZR Kit 3200 CL16 (2x8GB) GRAPHICSCARD: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti FTW3 GAMING, 11G-P4-6696-KR, 11GB GDDR5X, iCX PROCESSOR: Intel Core i7-8700K 3,7 GHz LGA1151 CHASSIS: Jonsbo Mod1 XL Semi-Open Frame chassis Green&Black. SSD: DSP 240GB SSD SATA3, 256MB Cache, 3D Flash, 560MB/S HDD: Toshiba 2TB HDD PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G3, 80 Plus Gold 750W, Fully Modular PSU DIY CABLES: SHAKMODS Premium Sleeved PSU Cables. WATERCOOLING PARTS: CPUBLOCK: Barrow Intel socket LGA115x Cpu Block with acrylic top GPUBLOCK: Barrow GPU Water Block for EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti FTW3 GAMING (RGB) RADIATORS: 2 of Magi MAGiCool G2 Slim Radiator (16 FPI )– 360 mm FITTINGS&ADAPTERS: Barrow ID10XOD14MM hardtube compression fittings and adapters. PUMP&RES COMBO: Barrow D5 PWM Pump&Res HARDTUBES: Barrow PETG ID10XOD14mm 500M hardtubes. EXTENSIONS&ADAPTERS: Barrow M-M, F-M and F-E extentions and 45/90° adapters. FANS: Aigo 120mm RGB fans LIQUID COOLANT: Primochill VUE Powder Green or EKWB cryofuel Green.
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Anyone have experience with Barrow DDC Pumps? I have yet to find anyone talking about it, but they go for a fraction of EK's price (also factoring in where I live, EK's products becomes very unreasonably priced as I also have to pay USD$50-60 import tax per item). I have seen an Amazon review stating that it's not authentic Laing pumps as Barrow's only uses 18W instead of 23W. Is this true? Also, what are the internals made of? Will it conflict with my Copper/Nickel loop? Finally, how does it perform comparing to EK's? All I see in Amazon reviews are 2 extreme sides of the story: one side says they are top quality and runs very quietly, the other side says its literally shit??? Please help if you have experience with these pumps. Thx!
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Hey there, I recently bought this: https://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/p/BarrowCH-G14-Digital-40mm-OLED-Display-Flow-Meter-with-RPM-Rotor-Silver_70546.html By default the inlet is on the right-hand side, but I need it on the left. According to the information on the page and on barrowch.com itself, you can change the inlet from the factory preset to left. However, I can't seem to find any information on this anywhere online on how to do this. Also, the thing didn't come with instructions or a manual leaflet or something. If anybody can help me out on how to do this, I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks a million! Gr, J.
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- flow meter
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I have a few basic questions for my first liquid cooling build. Not all are liquid cooling related but I rather ask them in one go than make multiple threads. 1. I bought Primochill rigid acrylic 1/2" tubing from Amazon and a bunch of barrow fittings from Ali Express - the fittings were all made for 12mm tubes I believe. The Primochill tubing doesn't fit the fittings, The tubes are too big in diameter. I read somewhere that different companies use different standards (imperial vs. metric standard). I am guessing Barrow is using metric while Primochill is using imperial and they aren't compatible. I am not going to buy another set of fittings as they were much more expensive than the tubing. Buying 12mm tubing is a more practical option . Which brand of acryllic tubing will be compatible with Barrow fittings? 2. I got the EVGA SLI pro bridge v2 and it only goes into half of the SLI connector. Is that how it is supposed to be? Does the other half stay uncovered? See picture for reference. 3. I want to add a mid plate in my case - the case is a Corsair Air 540. I cut out the bottom plate as that was getting in the way of the tubes and mobo wires. I will put a custom mesh grill there to close the bottom area. The question is how does the mid plate stay in place? What kind of support does it need? I have seen and read a lot of tuturials and haven't found any info on it. 4. What's the best order of installing components in a liquid cooled system? Do I install everything first and then add tubes or do I install tubes and components at the same time as more and more room gets taken up by the components . Is there a "best practices" recommendation for setting it up? Thanks.
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I'm currently in the process of tearing up my December 2015 build and will do doing a full custom watercooling loop. What's currently in it. A lot of it was picked up through Black Friday weekend sales. For example, the motherboard and RAM were a combo deal at Newegg. It was insanely cheap (not what's listed below). I currently have the 4790k overclocked to 4.7GHz at 1.295V (adaptive). The 980ti seems to be stuck at 1485MHz Core and 7800MHz Mem. I think the card is voltage limited at 1.224V or so. I'll try a custom bios once it's watercooled. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($329.99 @ SuperBiiz) CPU Cooler: Corsair H80i GT 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($87.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Asus Z97-A/USB 3.1 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($141.88 @ OutletPC) Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($72.99 @ SuperBiiz) Memory: Kingston HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($72.99 @ SuperBiiz) Storage: Samsung 850 Pro Series 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($212.98 @ OutletPC) Storage: Toshiba X300 5TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($139.99 @ Micro Center) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB FTW ACX 2.0+ Video Card ($639.99 @ Amazon) Case: Fractal Design Define R4 (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: EVGA 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($117.99 @ NCIX US) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM (64-bit) ($121.98 @ B&H) Monitor: Dell U2715H 60Hz 27.0" Monitor ($440.33 @ B&H) Keyboard: Corsair Vengeance K70 Wired Gaming Keyboard ($134.99 @ B&H) Mouse: Logitech G502 Wired Optical Mouse ($79.00 @ Logitech) Headphones: Sennheiser HD 650 Headphones ($379.68 @ Amazon) Other: Bottlehead Crack w/ Speedball (Purchased For $425.00) Other: Matrix Mini-i DAC (Purchased For $330.00) Other: Mackie mr5mk2 (Purchased For $300.00) Total: $4123.75 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-01-23 19:52 EST-0500
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- ek thermosphere
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I going start buying on my fittings shortly. I narrowed them down between Barrow and Darkside 12mm Rigid fittings. Anyone know the difference between the two? Quality and seal. Barrow is suppose to be off brand of Bitspower. Darkside looks exactly like Barrow fittings. Darkside fittings are currently on sale and I can get them a bit cheaper and faster compared to barrow. Since Barrow have to sent from China.
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This is what I came up so far, is this a good set of parts to use for my first WC Build? Pump/Res: Alphacool Eisbecher D5 150mm Acetal with Swiftech MCP655 Series 12 VDC D5 Water Pumps - With Speed Control CPU Block: XSPC Raystorm Pro CPU Waterblock - Intel GPU Block: EK-FC980 GTX Ti TF5 - Acetal+NickelEK-FC980 GTX Ti TF5 - Acetal+Nickel with EK-FC980 GTX TF5 Backplate Rev. 2 - Black (Only Block I could find that supports MSI 980Ti 6G) Coolant: EK-Ekoolant EVO Liquid Coolant - CLEAR (premix 1 Liter) Fans: Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B12-PS or EK Vardar F4 120ER (Not sure what ones are better) - Running them at around 800 RPM in Pull. Tubing: PETG Thick Wall Hard Tube 10/8mm or Darkside Flexible Tube 3/8″ ID, 5/8″ OD (10/16mm) -Blue UV (Not sure what would be the best to use, lean toward Soft since it seems to be cheaper and easier) Fittings: Barrow With Drain and a Flow meter. Radiator: 2x Alphacool NexXxoS ST30 Full Copper Radiator 240 (Will add a third if I can fit it) Also how often should I drain the loop and refill it with new coolant?