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Hi! I have three pairs of headphones (Sony MDR-1A which I'm currently using, Sony MDR-10R and some random earphones). I plug them into my computer's headphone jack at the front of my computer case. I'm using the latest version of Windows 10. The problem: After around 5-10 minutes of using the headphones, the audio of whatever is playing (Twitch, YouTube, video games) starts to fade away and after about 10 seconds the sound is completely messed up. It stays like this for a while, sometimes fixing itself for a few seconds but then breaking again. When the audio is messed up, the background audio (background music or sfx) seems to get much louder and the main part of the audio (dialog, for example) is almost inaudible. This happens with all three pairs of headphones and has been happening for many months. After a bit of experimenting I found that this audio glitch happens when the Left/Right balance of the headphones are equal to each other. As in, if the Left Balance is set to 10, and the Right Balance is set to 10, this glitch happens. If one of them is at least slightly offset from the other (For example if L is at 10, R is at 12) this glitch goes away. If they are very offset (L at 10, R at 40), the glitch also goes away. I change the balance by going to Sounds --> Headphones --> Levels --> Balance. This wouldn't be a problem if I could simply set them at a certain offset value and leave them, but depending on the game or audio the LR balance is constantly changing. Drivers: I had Realtek audio (the audio driver for my motherboard) installed on my computer. The issue was present when that was installed, and so I uninstalled it but the audio still ends up breaking. I also tried reinstalling Realtek but the issue persisted. I've uninstalled and reinstalled Realtek at least five times by now so I don't think that's the issue. I've tried plugging my headphones directly into the back of my PC case (straight into the motherboard), but for some reason I can't get any sound to come out no matter which port I plug it into. I'm pretty sure the lime green one is meant for headphones, but like I mentioned it doesn't work (nor any of the others). It doesn't seem like an audio device is detected. When the headphones are plugged into the back, the detected sound devices are: 1. Realtek Digital Output 2. 6 - ASUS VS228 with subtext "AMD High Definition Audio Device". This is my monitor. 3. Realtek Digital Output (Optical) When I plug in the headphones on the front port, the option for "Speakers" with subtext "Realtek High Definition Audio Device" pops up in addition to the previous ones listed and that's the one where I can hear things normally (until they break). I've been trying to fix this issue for a really long time and haven't had any luck, so if anybody has had a similar issue or has any advice it would be greatly appreciated! (Also as a side note, I can plug my headphones into my monitor, but the sound is pretty bad and there's a loud static sound that constantly plays when I do that. It's an issue for another time, but just letting you know that the monitor isn't a great solution) These are my computer specs: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/v4qPwP EDIT: Somebody mentioned to me that an external sound DAC (not really sure what they're called) might fix the issue. Any idea if something like this (https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Labs-70SB173000000-Sound-Blaster/dp/B06XBZ38ZJ/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=usb+external+dac&qid=1623878925&sr=8-3) would function as a work-around?
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Budget (including currency): 2500 $US Country: United States of America Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Main use will likely be games, but I also do a little computational work for my research, so I imagine it'd be nice to have some extra RAM. Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): I'm upgrading from an Alienware m15 R3 laptop, but I'll still want it to be usable. My goal is to have a rig that'll be able to handle a very stable 60 fps at 1440p in most games for the next 5ish years. This will be my first desktop build, so I could use some help making sure the parts I'm getting are compatible and balanced. I'm using Newegg's Custom PC Builder to help me out, but I'm open to buying from other reliable online vendors if it'll cut costs. I already have a mouse and mousepad, so here's everything I'm currently looking at buying within the week: Intel Core i7-12700K - Core i7 12th Gen Alder Lake 12-Core (8P+4E) 3.6 GHz LGA 1700 125W Intel UHD Graphics 770 Desktop Processor GIGABYTE Z690 AORUS MASTER LGA 1700 Intel Z690 EATX Motherboard with DDR5, 5x M.2, PCIe 5.0, USB 3.2 Gen2X2 Type-C, Intel WiFi 6E, AQUANTIA 10GbE LAN CORSAIR Vengeance 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin PC RAM DDR5 5600 (PC5 44800) Intel XMP 3.0 Desktop Memory Model GIGABYTE Gaming OC GeForce RTX 3070 8GB GDDR6 PCI Express 4.0 ATX Video Card GV-N3070GAMING OC-8GD (rev. 2.0) (LHR) Corsair iCUE 5000X RGB Tempered Glass Mid-Tower ATX PC Smart Case, Black, CC-9011212-WW CORSAIR RM RM750 750 W ATX 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Full Modular Power Supply SAMSUNG 980 PRO M.2 2280 1TB PCI-Express Gen 4.0 x4, NVMe 1.3c Samsung V-NAND 3-bit MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) MZ-V8P1T0B/AM Noctua NH-U9S, Premium CPU Cooler with NF-A9 92mm Fan (Brown) Microsoft Windows 11 Home (USB) GIGABYTE G27QC A 27" 165Hz 2560 x 1440 1ms (MPRT) 88% DCI-P3, HDR Ready, FreeSync Premium, 1 x Display Port 1.2, 2 x HDMI 2.0, 2 x USB 3.0 Curved Gaming Monitor SteelSeries 64795 Apex 3 Water Resistant Gaming Keyboard, Premium Magnetic Wrist Rest (Whisper Quiet Gaming Switch) 2x Noctua NF-F12 PWM, Premium Quiet Fan, 4-Pin (120mm, Brown) Noctua NT-H1 3.5g, Pro-Grade Thermal Compound Paste (3.5g) And some hook-and-loop straps for cable management. Lmk if you have any questions and please offer suggestions if you think they'd improve the build. If I overlooked anything, please let me know! Here's the Newegg PC Builder link for the build in case it helps: https://newegg.io/4948d2e Edit: Also, I would like to keep noise low (hence Noctua fans, SSD and a hopefully quiet keyboard). Edit 2: Went ahead and locked in on this. Let's hope it works!
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Hello, I recently upgraded components in my PC (motherboard, CPU) and installed a fresh version of Windows 10. Since then, I have noticed that, when I have headphones on, low Hz sounds are much louder in my left headphone than right. Motherboard: Asus ROG Maximus XI Hero I have tried: multiple headphones (turning them around to confirm that its the headphone and not my hearing), installing and reinstalling Realtek audio, uninstalling drivers, disabling headphone enhancements. I do not have a soundcard. Does anyone have any insight into this issue?
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Hi guys, My drone has problem with it's gyro and gyro motors as it won't balance correctly thus won't fly. It is a Ehang ghostdrone 2 Android and Ios version whitout the ar google with the drone kit. Any ideas? I know it is a niche product Ehang but honestly, outside professional photography drone, it is the most stable drone especially when it did came out and I especially like how to control it, whiteout on RC controller just by phone. It is one of the best drone and air mobility companies but just not as sophisticated as the other brand. Any help?
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Hey guys, i really need your help, just 2 days ago when i was playing with my friends i got told my right side is louder. When i had a look at it in Audacity i saw that it was true (attached picture). I've got a RODE NT1A Microphone and an Behringer Xenyx1002 mixer. When i reach a certain level i see a green LED for each side. There i could see that both channels left and right were equal in loudness, because they started lighting at the same time. If i mixed the channel loudness so that it would be equal on both sides it wouldn't be on the mixer and after a while it would be louder on the right side again. Thats the weired part about it. So, it could be the cable that goes from the mixer into the pc, but because of the fact that the right side got louder again after a while i think its a problem with Windows 10 or anything else. Has anyone already had such a problem or any idea what this could be? I already replugged every cable and cleaned all the connectors, but I am running out of ideas. Really appreciate every help i can get, Skull_Zockt
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Hey guys, i really need your help, just 2 days ago when i was playing with my friends i got told my right side is louder. When i had a look at it in Audacity i saw that it was true (attached picture). I've got a RODE NT1A Microphone and an Behringer Xenyx1002 mixer. When i reach a certain level i see a green LED for each side. There i could see that both channels left and right were equal in loudness, because they started lighting at the same time. If i mixed the channel loudness so that it would be equal on both sides it wouldn't be on the mixer and after a while it would be louder on the right side again. Thats the weired part about it. So, it could be the cable that goes from the mixer into the pc, but because of the fact that the right side got louder again after a while i think its a problem with Windows 10 or anything else. Has anyone already had such a problem or any idea what this could be? I already replugged every cable and cleaned all the connectors, but I am running out of ideas. Really appreciate every help i can get, Skull_Zockt
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I have my Razer Kraken now for two years and suddently my left earcup is louder then my right earcup. I've tried to blance it but windows 10 doesn't show the balance setting and balancing with Realtek doesn't do anything. On other devices my headset has the same problem. What do I need to do?
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Hello techies! So, after the lift on software updates for my Huawei, I got access to this neat feature on my phone: Digital balance, which basically measures my screen time in different apps, and also gives me nice summaries on what I actually spend my time on doing. My question to you is, do you know of any other programs on Windows that would do the same? Saving statistics on the kind of programs that are in focus, and how long they've been used? I've attached a screenshot of the Android app for those who haven't seen it yet
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I'm looking for around a $1000 PC with the ryzen 5 2600 however looking for a good card to pair with it
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I want to balance my fujifilm x-t3 on my zhiyun crane (v1) but my lens is too heavy. Even with the slider all the way back it is still front heavy. Does anyone else have this problem? what should I do?
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How can I setup GoIP-4 for auto balance and recharge? I'm not sure how to fill up only two fields. Attached is a screenshot. I need help filling up those two fields. Any inputs is appreciated.
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Hi, I need help on pc components balance. I have 1k budget, and I have already chosen 240€ cpu, (i5-8600 core coffee lake) So basically its 24% of my budget. Is that good? And I have watched other forums, and people say that it depends on what games, settings and what resolution are you gonna play, and I want to play CSGO, R6S, PUBG, Fortnite, and Rust on 1080p and low-medium settings. So if anyone would like to help me on how much I should spent on gpu, ram, motherboard etc... And by the way, about motherboards.. The cpu I have chosen requires LGA1151 and there is different prices... Should I just choose cheapest one? Please help me to choose motherboard. Thank you people.
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Hi everyone I'm new in building a PC so I want to make sure that is the correct balance for this PC and what type of watercooling you recommend and thermal paste, I hope that you can help me please Characteristics: Intel i7 7700k 16 GB Ram DDR4 GTX 1080ti Motherboard ASUS SSD (256 GB) HDD (1 Tb) What kind of cooling (water cooling) is better and thermal paste or motherboard, if you can help me making suggestions
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So I have a few questions to the following build: Case: Nzxt H700i CPU: Coffee Lake Intel i7 8700k CPU Cooler: Nzxt x62(or 52) Kraken Motherboard: ASUS Maximus X Code z370 GPU: Asus Nvidia Strix 1080(ti) (I'll have to look what I can afford when the prices drop...) RAM: G-Skill Trident Z RGB 2x8Gb Drives: Seagate Barracuda 2tb HDD Data-Drive Samsung M.2 960 EVO SSD Boot-Drive Fans: Nzxt Aer RGB fans PSU: ? SO the questions are: 1st: I was being told that the smart hub integrated into the H700i wouldn't have enough Ports for the inbuilt LED strip, the Kraken cooler, and 2-4 Aer RGB fans, So should I buy another Nzxt Hue +? 2nd: So on the H700i there is room for 3 fans at the front, 2 on the top and 1 at the rear, so Should I put the Kraken (which has 2 fans) on top or at the front, and How many intake/outtake fans should I have? (Front-to-back airflow) 3rd: Should I buy an internal USB expansion Hub? 4th: Pcpartpicker.com says the rig uses 475W, how many Watts should I buy when I want to overclock in the future, and which do you recommend? If you have any other complains or suggestions, please tell me. Don't cringe please, this was my first attempt at planning a PC build Have a great day - Arhub
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Can you mount UFB (Updraft Floating Balance) bearings horizontally in a case without causing vibrations, grinding, or other noises? Looking at getting this phanteks fan. I've mounted a fan that had a hydro-dynamic bearing, and it caused really bad vibrations when mounted horizontally/upside down. I don't know a lot about UFB types, wondering if anyone who uses these fans horizontally/upside down could offer some opinions on them. edit2: corrected grammar and missing words
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Hey everyone! I've been thinking lately of getting a desktop PC ,right now i own a HP pavilion g6 2292-nr - hell of an oven(features AMD CPU with intergrated GPU , sometimes i can even burn myself ). So i decided, if a PC, than it should be as compact as possible, and it suppose to be fast enough, cause' i might play GPU-hard games sometime. And i also need good performance for my job , and , you know, everyone hates waiting for everything to load. So what i want you to do guys , is to look at the components list, and tell me , if you have any advice , about the price, parts etc. Maybe there's no need to use certain components , and you could advise something better. And , if there's a cheaper way to build a PC close to this , without loosing much performance , please let me know. So we've got on mind: Case : Fractal Design Node-202 (https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GsZ2FT/fractal-design-case-fdcanode202bk) CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K Motherboard : MSI Z170I GAMING Graphics card : Asus TURBO-GTX1060-6G RAM : Kingstom HyperX 16gb (2x8gb) 3200MHz Storage : SSD SAMSUNG 850 EVO 120GB M.2 SATA || 3.5" WD Blue 1TB SATAIII/64MB/7200rpm Power Supply :BE QUIET! SFX Power 2 400W CPU cooling : THERMALRIGHT AXP-100 Muscle Well , any part can be changed , except motherboard, or maybe you can tell better alternative. I know that the price for all that sweet pile of silicon and metal is 'sweet' enough. Nevertheless I'll take any advice, if it has a good reasons Thanks everyone.
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So like my title suggests I am looking to find a sweet spot with my upgrade path going into next year, and I have the sad reality of being the only one in my cirlcle that knows what I mean when I say 4770k. So I turn to the best tech community I know! Some info: Here is my rig as it sits today: the cliffnotes version (full details in the attached file). Intel core i7-4770k OC 4100 MHz Asus Z97-PRO GAMER 16 GB ADATA RAM (2x8GB) 16 GB G.Skill Ares RAM (2x8GB) Nvidia GTX 770 2GB reference in SLI with MSI GTX 770 2GB And a 480GB Samsung EVO SSD for my main C drive 120GB ADATA SSD for my Scratch Drive 1 TB Seagate for my media drive 3 1440P monitors My question is what a suitable upgrade path should be I know there is an infinite number of ways to do this but I mostly want to know in regards to the GPU since that will be what I want to upgrade next. Additional info, I am NOT a gamer. I don't own or play any games. I am however, a content creator so this rig needs to be stable and powerful. I don't care about it being "good enough to run Crysis 3" I care about it playing back 4k footage in my Premiere timeline without stuttering (the 2 GB vram is currently a problem here). I like team green and I just don't see a reason to go AMD but if you want to try to convince me go ahead. At the moment I am leaning towards the 980ti but I just wonder if it is massive over kill on my current system. It is not likely that I will be making the leap to lga2011 boards anytime soon so "Future proofing" is not a strong argument because there will likely be significantly better video cards out there before I am ready to make that change. Have thoughts or opinions? Please let me know! Thanks WHITELIGHTNING.html
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Im so fucking pissed from my last 3 bf4 games. The game is so unbalanced. Infantry rockets are more powerful that guided missiles from fucking jets for god's sake! The last game I played, 6 people on thier team had stinger missiles. The stinger is a hand-held lockon anti air missile that does 35 damage to air vech's. Its heat seeking, and has a lockon rage of 300m, and unlimited tracking range. The other hand held lock on is called the igla, its range is also 300m, but requires a constant lock to reach the target. You would think that the igla would be more powerful right? No, it has less range, less damage (due to having to lock each missile separately). the stinger can come with up to 8 missiles, and it takes 3 to kill any air vech. The stinger also reloads 2x as fast as the igla. As a pilot, any person with a stinger on the ground just wrecks you. Heck, the stinger does 35 damage, when the FUCKING AA MISSILE DOES 25 MAX. SO your huge fucking 100 million dollar jet does less damage than a shoulder mounted rocket launcher! The scout heli has twin 20mm machine guns,and the attack heli has rockets. The 20mm destroys helis, while it takes 8 rocket hits to kill. the attack heli is also slower, and larger than the scout. the scout heli always wins 99% of the time. Tanks are not scary, and usually an easy kill. The sabot tank round needs basically a direct hit to kill. The IFV 25mm cannon requires 4 direct hits to kill. Should be 1. AA cannon is like a laser, destroys air vechs like it should along with infantry. damages everything. Scout cannons hurt boats, ppl and jeeps / cars but not tanks? why not? Boats have more armor than tanks! INRV is op, and can see though smoke. People cover the map in smoke then use inrv. when a whole enemy team does this... your fucked. Make it so you cant see though smoke. Smoke on tanks and ifv is under powered. the only good attachment is active protection, that kills every damaging item that's incoming. ( simply remove active protection) attack jet stops mid air when firing the tv missile. HOW TO FIX THE GAME:
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Good day ya all. So, I am going to build myself a new rig. I am pretty sure these are the parts I will use : https://de.pcpartpicker.com/user/SomeKiddie/saved/#view=7XKQzy But my question is: I see lots of builds (most of the time with higher end gpus) with i5s. So, is it even viable to use an i5 in a gaming setup, and if so, is it at least somewhat future-proof ? I would love to hear your opinions on this issue, since choosing an i5 would enable me to spend more of my budget on a gpu. Oh, and I would really appreciate it if you could take the time and take a look at the parts and suggest alternative cpus based on the rest of the parts (wich I would like to not change, except for the motherboard, wich maybe needs another socket (if you suggest AMD cpus or smth) or another chipset, since I may OC the other cpu). Thanks in advance, yours sincerly SomeKiddie
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Just wanted to say that the game is pretty awesome so far. It still needs balance (Fletcher's spamable Sticky Bombs and the Phantom's 1 shot Katana) but it is still a Beta so I guess that's to be expected. And until its out of beta I don't plan on spending much money on it. My only concern is that it's published by Nexon which has a history of ruining some F2P games. What do you guys think of the game? So far it has me hooked. SOME MORE INFO A few keypoints on why I like the game Nothing is blocked by your level - example: You couldn't get a certain gun until say lvl 24 Little to no pay wall - the only thing that requres you to pay for are Elite Cases (gives you higher grade loadout cards which are just skins of the lower grade cards) and the Credits Boosters. Everything else in the game is purchasable with the in game credits. Objective and Team Focused gameplay - Your K/D isn't shown until the end of the game and playing with the team and playing the objective can actually give you the higher score even if you end up with a low K/D Any Loadout cards above Bronze (all bronze cards are availible for purchase with in-game credits or cash) are only cosmetic skins and have no advantage. (SEE PICS BELOW) If you are interested in the game there are a few things you want to check out: https://eu.alienwarearena.com/giveaways/dirty-bomb-exclusive-alienware-skin-case-key-giveaway Alienware is doing a promotion with Dirty Bomb, all you have to do is sign up in their site and you get a Steam Key for 2 Cases with Alienware exclusive skins for the Starter mercs Aura and Skyhammer. http://store.steampowered.com/app/376380/ And this is the starter pack for the game which is a pretty good value, but by no means necessary to puchase. If you guys don't know what I'm talking about with loadout cards here some pics showing everthing about them: Source for pics: http://forums.dirtybomb.nexon.net/discussion/12972/the-db-genome-project-everything-there-is-to-know-about-loadouts
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Amazon: http://geni.us/mhy NCIX: http://bit.ly/1TDN1iv This SBU is MUCH more than a toy... But is it a worthy purchase for city commuters?
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Hi! My old asus N55S is beginning to struggle when it comes to playing games. (It gets very hot) So I figured, that I would try to build my own computer.. I have done some research and tried to make a good balanced build.. I am however not sure, if it's balanced. I have a few concerns: 1. My thought was to OC the i5-4690K and therefore I had to get a better CPU cooler, than the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo. 2. Is the CPU too powerfull for the GPU? (I don't really like to spend much more, so maybe I need to lower the CPU + maybe a less powerfull cooler?) 3. Do I need more cooling <-- Add one or two extra fans to the case? My build: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/MtwWvK
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I was just going through the forums and I saw that someone else had done this. Just rate my build specs on scale of 1-10(10 being good). Built since 2012 but the gpu is new. CPUi5 3570k @4.5 Ghz MotherboardAsus P8Z77-m Pro RAM4x4GB Corsair Vengeance @1600 Mhz GPUZotac GTX 980 Extreme AMP! 4GB(previously gtx 670 then sli) CaseArctic White Fractal Design Define R4 Storage1x120GB Kingston now 2x1TB WD Blue HDD PSU500W Raidmax 80 Bronze Display(s)1x27" Viewsonic VX2739wm CoolingCorsair H60i KeyboardCM Storm Quickfire MouseCorsair M65 Operating SystemWindows 8.1 Pro (Legit) PC Part Picker URLhttp://pcpartpicker.com/user/prestonslade/saved/mTqPxr
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I recently received two Sapphire Radeon HD 7950s from my uncle who upgraded his GPU. I want to use them to build my mother a computer for low-end gaming, namely WoW. I am not sure of what CPU I should use in this build to ensure that there is no bottleneck in the CPU without going overboard price-wise. Any help choosing other parts of the build (cpu cooler, psu) would also be appreciated.
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I am looking at laptops and am interested to hear opinions on the balance of systems. As an example.. Laptop 1: 15.6' Full HD IPS screen i3-3120M 2.5GHz 3MB (2C/4T) 8GB 1600MHz DDR3 RAM (2x4GB) HD4000 graphics 500GB Momentus 5400rpm 64MB cache SSHDD plus wireless, bluetooth, card reader, CD/DVD drive, battery etc... Laptop 2: 15.6' TFT LCD screen (1366x768) i7-3632QM 2.2GHz 6MB (4C/8T) 8GB DDR3 RAM HD4000 graphics 750GB 5400rpm HDD plus wireless, bluetooth, card reader, CD/DVD drive, battery etc... Both laptops come in at around £550 ($860 US/$880 CA). Is the first laptop balanced better than the second?