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Found 19 results

  1. Hi everyone, Would you help me chose what specific AVR Brand and UPS Brands that i will buy in amazon. thanks!
  2. I've been gaming on my PC with my RX 560 and getting pretty good fps on low/medium 1080p 80%. No problems whatsoever. Last week, I was able to switch to an RX 580 4Gb. I replaced my trusty RX 560 with the new RX 580 and started playing Modern Warfare 2019. While playing an hour later, I noticed hearing clicks. Constant clicks. It would appear and disappear every now and then but would appear more often the longer I played. So I got confused. I know for sure my PSU can handle RX 580. So I decided to turn it off and fix it the next day. Today, I played Modern Warfare again with radeon metrics on and I noticed my GPU were about 49C, 20-30W idle and would reach 68C, 105-120W when gaming. I also noticed that when my GPU pulls 115W+ of power constantly, my AVR clicks. I assumed its nothing until I got shocked by my keyboard. ZAPPPED. I knew something was up. I stressed test my rig with Furmark and I noticed that when using the burn-in test, my AVR would click every now and then when my GPU reached 65-69C. It also clicks everytime I toggle the donut back on. Right now, I'm scared to play any games not because my rig would blow up, but because my rig could just shutdown during gameplay. If it's relevant, I have my PC plugged in the AVR which is plugged in an extension cord with 10A 250V specs. Any recommendations? Specs Ryzen 5 2400G Sapphire Pulse RX 560 4Gb 16CU Gigabyte Gaming RX 580 4Gb MSI B450M Pro-M2 1x8Gb Crucial Ballistix Sport 2400Mhz DDR4 Patriot Scorch 256Gb 1Tb HDD Thermaltake Toughpower GX1 700W Gold Samwon AVR Cylon RGB Case Zeus Mk880 Keyboard
  3. Is that ok if i have 650 watts psu and i have 500 watts avr im from philippines
  4. So this is an interesting issue I've never had in my life and I can't seem to fix it. Randomly my right channel will fade out and distort a little making it sound 85% left and 15% right. Here is the weird part. The only way to fix it temporarily is to use the "test" button under speaker config and the "test" button under advanced properties. The second it test the right channel, you can instantly here the right channel roar to life. For like 10 or 20 minutes max. Details of what I'm using. Denon AVR-S740H connected through HDMI. Normal analog bookshelf speakers connected to the AVR Controller: is NVIDIA High Definition Audio Config: 7.1 Surround sound / Dolby Atmos Sample rate + bit depth: 24bit, 192000 Hz Enhancements and Spatial Sound are off. OS: 10.0.17763 64bit PC: Ryzen 7 2700X & RTX 2060 thanks for the help
  5. Hi, peace, I ordered my PC parts couple days ago: PCPartPicker Part List: First time Build CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15, Premium CPU Cooler with 2x NF-A15 PWM 140mm Fans Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI) ATX AM4 Motherboard Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory Storage: Silicon Power 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive Video Card: Sapphire Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB NITRO+ Video Card Case: Phanteks Enthoo Primo ATX Full Tower Case Power Supply: Corsair 1000 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply Monitor: BenQ EX2780Q 27.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor At the time of ordering I also added a surge protector, but removed it upon realizing that it has American/NEMA/US/120v outlet plug (type B) & what I need is a 220v UK or European outlet plug (type G/C/E/F). And it is really hard to find a 220v 3000-4000+ joules surge protector, don't know why, is 220v considered safer than 110v!? So, I searched for couple of days & found some interesting PC protection products, Auto voltage regulator, surge protector, UPS & power conditioner. Now I am not sure what I need, although I doubt if I really need a power conditioner or an UPS, I've been using my 11yrs old laptop with a simple power strip in worst conditions like thunder, lightning & brownouts (not continuously), there has been times when in 5-10 minutes 4 or 5 blackouts occurred. According to my search, I found that UPS don't provide voltage regulation, only a little bit surge protection & a backup in case of a blackout (which I don't need since I am not doing any important work on it), am I right? If AVR, I am thinking of going with STAC ST1000W If surge protector, ORICO 6 Way Outlet Power Strip Surge Protector If UPS, APC Smart-UPS 1000VA LCD 230V - SMT1000I Please advise & enlighten me!!
  6. I'm not sure whether to put this topic in audio, display or graphics cards, so I've put it here. Admins feel free to move it if you know! I currently have my 1080p TV plugged into my msi GTX970 via a Denon AVR-x2500h AV receiver using HDMI. This gets me fantastic HD audio. I want to change my TV to a 4K gaming monitor and use Displayport. Unfortunately this means the signal can't go via my AVR and as such I need to find another way of getting HD audio to the AVR via HDMI. Anyone got any bright ideas of how to do this? I am considering upgrading the graphics card to a RTX2080 if it helps. The only idea I've had so far is to plug an HDMI cable into the second monitor output of my graphics card and set nvidia to clone displays. Obviously this results in the GPU doing more work and I believe results in refresh rate issues since both outputs have to have the same resolution (my AVR only supports 60Hz at 4K). Anyone got a better idea?
  7. I need to create peer to peer communication between two terminals using SPI. I managed to get data from terminal connected to master into slave's terminal but I have no idea how to send data from slave to master. I am complete noob so the code is really f**ked up especially after trying to get communication from slave to master working an there are probably some stupid mistakes. Master void main() { char send; char receive; DDRB |= 1<<0; PORTB &= ~(1<<0); SPI1_Init_Advanced(_SPI_MASTER, _SPI_FCY_DIV4, _SPI_CLK_LO_LEADING); UART1_Init(9600); SPCR |=(1<<SPE) | (1<<SPR1) ; SPCR &=~(1<< DORD)& ~(1<<SPIE); SPCR &= ~(1<<CPOL) & ~(1<<CPHA); while(1) { if (UART1_Data_Ready() == 1) { receive = UART1_Read(); } SPDR = receive; while(!(SPSR & (1<<SPIF) )); UART1_Write(SPDR); delay_ms(1000); } } Slave char receive; void main() { char q; SPI1_Init_Advanced(_SPI_SLAVE, _SPI_FCY_DIV4, _SPI_CLK_LO_LEADING); UART1_Init(9600); SPCR |=(1<<SPE); SPCR &=~(1<< DORD)& ~(1<<SPIE); SPCR &= ~(1<<CPOL) & ~(1<<CPHA); while(1) { if (UART1_Data_Ready() == 1) { receive = UART1_Read(); } UART1_Write(SPDR); SPDR = receive; while(!(SPSR & (1<<SPIF) )); } }
  8. Hello, I'll be breaking years of lurking to answer this question that's been on my mind all week... I have a 4K Television @60HZ 4:4:4 RGB over HDMI from my GTX970, this works great, I have almost no issues except gaming at 4K. However, for years I've been using an "ok" receiver, and have been happy with Optical DTS Interactive/PCM24/96hz. I want an upgrade to match the television experience, but the receiver I will be given as an upgrade sadly only have 1.4a, which has ARC, as well as HDMI Uncompressed audio, but how do I even get to take advantage of that? The receiver probably won't allow me to input a full 4k signal, nor would it passthru the video to the TV, how can I achieve this HDMI audio without the use of having a "second monitor" via the nvidia control panel that either gets in the way, or will slow down, or mess with the cards power scaling. As far as I know, ARC is not possible, as it's essentially the same as Toslink... (whyyyyy????) I have contemplated a few ideas, but have yet to test them till I get the AVR, one is to have the HDMI directly to the TV, and use the DVI port with a HDMI adaptor and pass the "second monitor" to it, and find someway of having the screen completely ignored as much as possible. Or, purchase/reuse an old nvidia card to pass HDMI directly to the AVR without it affecting performance. Now I'm not entirely sure, but I can't say for certain they'll work as I don't know if: 1. DVI to HDMI supports DTS/Dolby TrueHD and 2. If having a second card purely as a monitor and sound output would work and alleviate resources from the already limited GTX970. I'm sorry if this was more appropriate in "Graphics Cards", but I felt other people who took audio seriously would have more likely encountered this issue seeing as 4K is readily available, and plenty of people don't wish to upgrade their receiver just yet. Thank you so much, and I hope I manage to clear some of the dread of not being able to hear uncompressed audio. (Have a serious ground issue with my house, and 5.1 Analogue is out of the question). JTheDoc
  9. I just got an LG 55B7A OLED tv, its great. I also had to get a new receiver as my old one didn't support HDCP2.2, 4K60, HDR, etc. So, I got a Pioneer Elite VSX-LX102 7.2 channel receiver that supports all the HDR standards, 4K60hz, HDCP2.2 on all inputs and so on. I have a Windows 10 PC (with a GTX1080, so HDR capable), Chromecast Ultra (4k60, HDR capable), and a regular Bluray player (not 4k, no HDR) connected to the receiver with brand new HDMI 2.0 cables and then a single HDMI 2.0 to the TV from the HDMI out of the receiver. I immediately learned how much I hate smart tv's as WebOS was clearly not designed with an AV receiver handling all the inputs in mind. I'm not able to get any content to play with HDR. It just plays at SDR. The damn TV has so many convoluted, overlapping, redundant settings, some of which seemingly supersede others when you don't expect it. However, the one setting in the TV that seems to be critical to HDR support is HDMI Ultra HD Deep Color. When I turn this on, the receiver stops sending any video to the tv. I've tried rebooting the chromecast, my PC, nothing works with HDR enabled on the TV. Disable it and the video comes right back. Just for giggles I connected my PC straight to the TV and HDR was recognized by Windows and the TV even flashed a notification saying HDR was active. Back to the receiver, and Windows won't even let me toggle HDR anymore. I'm not sure if my issue is with the TV or the receiver. The receiver should just be a passive HDMI switch basically (I have upscaling turned off on the receiver). The TV has so many damn settings that can alter the way inputs work though. I have the HDMI input from the receiver set to "PC" on the TV input settings menu. This disables almost all the excessive post-processing the TV usually does. HDMI-CEC is enabled on both the TV and receiver. Should I change the input type in the TV input menu to surround sound? Should I just return the Pioneer AVR? I feel like I'll just run into the same problem with any other brand of AVR. I don't want to have to plug everything in to the HDMI ports on the TV and then rely on ARC for audio as I've never had a good experience with that. I tried it with my PC and while it worked with the Pioneer AVR for a few minutes, the TV kept turning its own internal speakers back on even though I had them off with Audio set to HDMI ARC on the TV. This tv is beautiful, but the "smarts" of WebOS aren't implemented very well. I mean, does LG really not anticipate someone with a nearly $2K TV will use an AVR for handling their AV inputs??? Any input from other LG OLED owners on how to get HDR/HDMI Deep Color working is greatly appreciated.
  10. I own and route all my video and audio through an onkyo tx-nr646. Great reciever for my 4k and surround gaming experience but still facing difficulties with some setup features. In this case routing my xbox one x to play through zone2. Connection route. Xbox 1x via hdmi2.2 into bd/dvd input, output hdmi2.2 to lg uj7700 4k tv. The reciever plays great through the main amplifier but my main speakers have to much bass for late night use and my zone 2 is connected to a pair of cerwin vegas d2s that sound great for my record player that is connected into the phono input. But no sound will come out of zone 2 when on the db/dvd input. Is this a setup issue or is the avr not capable of outputting hdmi signal into the zone 2. Oh i have tried the different xbox audio options and even telling the xbox to output in formats other than bitstream does not change this issue.
  11. Hello, I am looking to purchase a new Home Theater system with a few requirements and I am having some issues with deciding and finding the most "bang-for-the-buck" setup. My requirements are: Dolby Atmos >= 5.1.2 HDR 4K Passthrough CEC One additional preference is no drilling in ceiling/wall for the Atmos speakers. I will hook up my nVidia SHIELD to the AVR and the AVR will output to my (non-4K) LG TV. Main media consumption will be through YouTube and PLEX, and for the future I am considering a PS4/XBONE. I am comfortable with spending 600EUR +/- 100EUR for AVR + Speakers and I have found the following: AVR: Onkyo TX NR676E - 379 EUR Denon AVR X1500H - 399 EUR Speakers: Onkyo SKS HT588 - 319 EUR (Possible issue with the wattage?) Package: Onkyo HT-S5800 - 558 EUR (HT-R494 unfortunately does not support HDR, and therefore I am not convinced that this is a good deal) Now I would like to hear from you if these are the setups which would be "best" for my requirements and maybe even preferences.
  12. So i have convinced my mom to let me buy a UPS as my pc reboots randomly, I am thinking about getting a real cheap one because my mom is too strict with budget. My Specs are in signature and I think before anyone says that my PSU is not powerful enough to handle HD 6850 is mistaken because according to MSI power requirement 450w PSU is enough and I don't believe in overclocking so it would provide enough headroom for me. I can't go above 40$ (2,500 INR), and here is the one i am thinking to buy that suits my budget and has recieved good reviews costs around 35$ (2,300 INR) : http://www.amazon.in/Champion-UPS-800VA-Home-Office/dp/B00NBS6QMY?tag=googinhydr18418-21&kpid=B00NBS6QMY&tag=googinkenshoo-21&ascsubtag=82715bb9-5bf1-464e-a7ef-e93cb00cffed Technically it would provide maximum of 480wattage according to my knowledge but what if am playing a heavy game using and system drawing all the power from PSU in which case 450w PSU + 50w of Monitor + my speakers. Would it cause my system to shutdown because of overload? Thanks.
  13. Hey there... I'm preparing to up my rig to a dual monitor setup... I already have the necessary display adapters... what's next is should be a monitor, but then I noticed my AVR... It's a measly generic 500W one... Any suggestions on a cheap-ish yet decent AVR/UPS that is at least 600W 700W? Budget is ~50USD, but absolute max is ~70USD... I'm looking at ones from Omni and Zebra right now... It must operate at 220V... 110V outputs are optional... Thanks, Hermit
  14. According to Outervision website, my system requirement is somewhere like 330-340 watt. I want to buy the APC 600VA ups which is like 360watt, I did a lot of research and I know this is just making it there, I should get the 1100VA model. But I am not bothered about the backup it can provide, there is barely a power cut where I live, but some voltage fluctuation is seen often. So my aim is to have a stable power source for my PC. How is the AVR function in the APC 600VA back-UPS (BX600C-IN) for my purpose? Shall I buy it or get the 1100VA model (it is actually more than double the price of the 600VA)
  15. When do you really need a servo type avr? I've been using relay type for the past 5 years and didn't have any problems with it. What are the advantages of having a servo besides being more durable? Is it more efficient?
  16. Hey guys, So I'm taking a software engineering course at the moment where they recommend the use of Atmel Studio, however; I'm on Linux and don't really want to setup a virtual machine (although if that's the only option, then I guess that will have to do). Does anyone know of an equivalent to Atmel Studio for Linux? Thanks!
  17. High i recently built my budget gaming rig. I notice that our wall sockets are grounded so i used a ECO power AVR, can i ask it's natural for the avr always on? since i encounter that my avr doesn't protect my pc when it's turn off and it ground my pc. I know that when it's off it's should not working or no power at all but my pc still grounded. Is it my AVR is busted? should i go and replace it under warranty.
  18. Hi, I have two devices connected to my GTX 970: 1. A Dell monitor with a 1920x1200 resolution (via DVI). 2. A Denon AVR which is connected to a 1080p TV (both via HDMI). The speakers are connected to the AVR, so I can never have the Denon display deactivated, in order for audio to work. The problem is that the NVIDIA Control Panel confuses between the two devices. While it identifies them properly, when I set the display mode to Duplicated, it sends the same 1080p signal to both devices, which means that everything looks weird on the Dell monitor, because it's 1200p. Things only look good when I set the dual display mode to Extend, but then my mouse pointer gets lost because it wanders to the TV which is almost always off. The problem also occurs in video games, where games only let me set up a resolution of up to 1080p, because they think the Denon AVR is the display. What is the proper way to set this up? Thanks.
  19. Just purchased this AVR for a smokin price!($1100) Just want to know if anyone has tried the analog inputs from their pc for audio. I am currently just using hdmi with the pcm stream. I have an asus crosshair V formula Z mobo fyi. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
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