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Recently (within a week) my primary monitor (asus VG34VQL1B) Its connected via displayport to my rtx 3060 ti. It only happens on the primary monitor, and not the second. I have chnaged cpu, mbo, and ram. It did not change it.
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Hi, I am building my first PC. I can start it with my CPU-graphics and installed windows 10 Pro. Everything works except that my GPU isn't detected in the device-manager and I can't get an image with the output of the GPU. I don't know, what I can do at this point, so I ask here (first time I ask for help in an online-forum). A lot of the things are bought used, but I don't think, that is the problem (the MoBo detects something in the PCIe slot). As I said, I can run windows with the monitor connected to the CPU-graphics. FYI I have internet and can install things (not a Nvidia driver, because no Nvidia GPU is detected), in case I need Apps, drivers, etc to fix the problem. The Fans of the GPU are spinning (different to other posts) and the lights are on. I am using a displayport-cable. I don't have another GPU to test it or another PC to test the GPU. Also no other monitor at the time (I am moving soon and I have my monitor there, not here). I don't even get a signal (not even for BIOS) when I plug the monitor into the GPU. In the BIOS (under Advanced - System Agent - PCI Express Configuration) I see x16 detected in the first slot, but that is about it. My build: (OS: Windows 10 Pro 64 bit) Motherboard: Asus Z490-e CPU: Intel i9-11900K GPU: Nvidia RTX 4070 12GB RAM: 2x16 32GB 3200 MHz kit (Corsair Vengeance Pro) PSU: be quiet! 12m 850W CPU-cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock Elite Storage: Fikwot FN955 4TB M.2 PCIe Gen4 Monitor is old, but works after I put the new NVMe into my laptop and installed the basic display-drivers (it is worse than full hd so windows had a problem with it). What I've tried already: I installed a BIOS-update (newest one, 2801 x64) with EZ-Flash and a USB stick. In the BIOS I tried: I checked all the cables, turned it off and back on (while I tried my luck in the BIOS I had to reset it and update it again a few times). enabling iGPU Multi-Monitor setting the primary display to auto or the GPU a different Power cable for the GPU (PCIe 5.0 (both sides) as well as a 2x8 to 5.0 splitter, and I made sure, they were correctly installed at the GPU and the PSU) putting the GPU into a different slot connecting the M.2 to the second slot (is still there) Did all windows updates, etc. uninstalled graphics-drivers reset BIOS I really appreciate any help. If you need more info or pictures, please say so and I will get them. Thank you!
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Hello, I am planning on buying a laptop for myself for regular day-to-day office work and some/ rare gaming. I have been looking at Lenovo and Asus and I am confused between 2 specifications. A-> Company- ASUS- TUF A15 CPU- AMD Ryzen 9 5900HX GPU- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060 Laptop RAM- 8GB DDR4-3200 SO-DIMM *2 Storage- 512GB PCIe 3.0 NVMe M.2 SSD B-> Company- Lenovo LOQ CPU- Intel i5-12450H GPU- NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3050 Laptop RAM- 8GB DDR5-4800MHz (SODIMM) *2 Storage- 512 GB SSD M.2 2242 PCIe Gen4 TLC Both systems have 8GBx2 = 16GB of ram. but A has DDR4 ran whereas B has DDR5 ram. Both are at an approximate same price point but the ASUS laptop is refurbished. My approximate budget is 70,000 INR +/- 5,000 INR. I am unsure as to which laptop to select. Please feel free to ask any questions/ clarifications/ details required from my side. Kindly help.
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Hi everyone, I was playing F1 23 HDR for 1-2 Hours, shut down my PC and got some Food. After turning my PC back on, I noticed a vertical while Line of Pixels across the Screen. It is even streaking beyond the normal Display-Output of my PC, probably for Pixel-Shift Im guessing? I thought this was an issue with my GPU/Cable at first, but when I replaced the Cable and tried a different Output-Device it was still present, so I looked in the Monitor-Menu without anything being connected. - It was still there... Then I reran Pixel-Cleaning a couple of times and even reflashed the Firmware, all to no avail sadly, so I started an RMA with the Shop where I bought it. I also wondered if it was damaged somehow, but I did not see any Marks indicating Damage from the Outside on the Monitor. Has anyone experienced a similair Issue? Some Pictures of the Issue attached!
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I have Asus TUF B450m Pro Gaming and I'm just looking at the bios then I saw this one. It has two modes. Normal mode and the Asus Optimal. Is it fine if I tune in the Asus Optimal? Is it like, overclocking? It also indicates it'll boost perfomance so I'd like to try it. But I'm not sure if it's safe.
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I have an ASUS Zen WiFi Mini AX mesh system that is configured in Access Point mode, so it is not acting as a router, as I have that wired to an Edgerouter-X for QoS and ISP failover. This mesh system consists of one device (model SD4R) that has two ethernet ports (WAN/LAN and LAN), and two other devices (model SD4N) that has a single LAN ethernet port. If I need to make a config change, it is done by connecting to the SD4R, which here I will call the the "main AP". Currently, my networking flow is (see full explanation here) Two ISP modems > Edgerouter-X -> Main AP (SD4R) -> MoCA Adapter -> 1:4 coax splitter (one with a terminator cap, one goes to MoCA for ethernet switch, two goes to MoCA for other APs) -> One SD4N AP for each room. I will be evaluating whether there really needs to be the main AP (SD4R) in the same room as the router because the next closest AP is just one room away. So the room with the router may already have solid 5 GHz reception without its own AP. So, I was wondering: Would things operate normally to move the main AP to a different room on the same Coax splitter as the other APs, such that the APs would no longer be downstream from the main AP? That would result in the following updated networking flow: Two ISP modems > Edgerouter-X -> MoCA Adapter -> 1:4 coax splitter (one goes to main AP, one goes to MoCA for ethernet switch, two goes to MoCA for other APs) -> One SD4R/SD4N AP for each room. What have I checked and why am I posting this? I read the ASUS manual, and its "wired connection" diagram shows putting the other APs downstream from the main one. However, it does not say whether this is required for certain or all configurations (such as Access Point) I searched for other posts on these forums, and there was one regarding a similar question about having some APs on MoCA and some not, but that was a different layout - So I'm not entirely confident that the same thing applies to my situation or even my manufacturer. Why don't I just try it on my own? Well that would take a considerable amount of time to get the main AP in another room, and I think it would be helpful to have an up front answer for the community or even the internet's sake since... ASUS doesn't have a community/forum that fits this wifi product or all their products. They have specific forums for ROG and even ZenPhone, but not ASUS products in general. Also, bonus points to anyone that can tell me how I can connect reliably connect to my ScreenBeam MoCA adapters directly so that I can see signal related stats. I've tried connecting the device directly to the ethernet port of my PC and using whatever IP the directions told me to connect to, but a page for the device doesn't load at all.
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I have a old Asus X99-Pro board that has worked great for years. On the morning of Jun 23rd I discovered the machine restarted overnight and was stuck with post code 00. I tried restarting the machine multiple times and still had post code 00. None of the fans were spinning. I had a i7-5820K installed in the board when this happened. I updated my BIOS from 0401 to 3801 on June 16th to do a RAM upgrade. The machine had no issues after the update until Jun 23rd when this incident happened. Asus support said I had a dead CPU but I am not very confident in ASUS support due to my experience with a issue with a different board on my newer machine. I just installed a used Xeon E5-2683 v4 into the board that I got from a surplus seller on eBay. The new CPU is on the QVL list for my board. My board still has post code 00. I have tested this board with nothing installed in it and got post code 00. I also tried with only each CPU installed and still got post code 00. I also tried with a CPU and a single stick of RAM and still post code 00. In all of my testing I was not able to get the fans to spin. I do have the power and reset LEDs on my motherboard when my PSU is on. I have tried using USB Bios Flashback to install BIOS 0401 and 3801 on my board with no improvement. The bios flashback function appears to work but I still get post code 00. I am wondering if there are any other tests I can try? I do not want to spend $200 on a new X99 board but I am willing to spend money on tools (Like a PSU tester). My PSU is a Corsair RM750 so the PSU fans do not spin when I use a jumper on the PSU. I was able to power a CD drive with my jumped PSU. Any advise is appreciated.
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I’ve been dealing with this ASUS motherboard for 2 weeks now trying to troubleshoot reason to why the XMP profile crashes Fortnite on DIMM slots 2 and 4. When I switch the DIMM to slots 1 and 3, XMP takes quite a while to Boot and post. I’ve tried contacting ASUS themselves I haven’t heard anything back yet. I bought the recommended RAM and all the parts are compatible. Please help you’re my only hope. specs~ i9-13900k Asus motherboard z790 A Wifi G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB series (Intel XMP 3.0) DDR5 RAM RTX 4070ti 1TB
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So I build computers for a living and run into defective hardware all the time. But this time ASUS is really pissing me off. The GPU is defective, 2 days old. Didn't make it passed my testing. Go to remove the card and the power cable latch bump comes off. "VOID, Client Induced Damage" ITS A NIB OF PLASTIC!! FFS
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Hey everyone! I have an ASUS RTX 2080 Strix and would like to perform some maintenance on it, change the thermal paste, I don't know really how the thermal pads are doing so I would like to get new ones in case I need to replace them, do you guys know what thermal pads I can get, preferably from amazon? I'll really appreciate the help! Thank you SO much in advance!
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I just upgraded my CPU to i7 14700k. Everything is set to default in BIOS except that XMP is enabled and EMC is disabled. I know these CPUs are running pretty hot so is there anything else I can set to make it a bit cooler? Mobo: ASUS TUF GAMING Z790-PLUS WIFI Cooler: SharkGaming Bloodfreezer 360 Watercooling In C24 it insta thermal throttles around 100c. I dont want to OC it, just make it cooler without loss of performance. I read something about LLC but im not sure how it works or how to set it correct.
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hi there, im looking to upgrade from an aoc 24g2 144hz 1080p 24 inches to 2k 27 inches and these are the choices that are currently available at my country. https://www.zonadigitalsv.com/produ...t-ips-180hz-1ms-gtg-dp-hdmi-hdr10197105079663 https://www.zonadigitalsv.com/produ...170hz-1ms-gtg-hdr-hdmi-20-dp-vesa824142311387 thoughts? thanks for your time.
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Hi! I have a z170 pro gaming and an i7 6700k, with 32GB of ram. I have to change the CPU for an i5 7600k, so, before changing it, I updated the bios with the 6700k in the system (BIOS Ver. 3501). After updating, I start windows to see that everything works, and everything was fine, I turn off the PC and change the CPU. When starting widnows, I go to system properties and it appears as if it only had 16 gb of ram, but in the bios it detects the 4 Sticks. I tried one stick at a time, to see if it was a ram problem, and they all work fine, I got another 32 gb of a friend's ram, and I have the same problem, bios detects the 4 stick, but only reports 16 gb installed. I check the socket for bent pins, and everything looks good. when putting the i7 again, it detects the entire ram (32gb), and windows also reports 32 gb installed. Some help? Thank you in advance.
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Troubleshooting Help: CPU - AMD Ryzen 5 5600X MOBO - ASUS ROG B450-F Gaming II GPU - ASUS TUF 4080 OC PSU - Corsair RM1000x https://pcpartpicker.com/b/KKDcCJ My new 4080 from Asus will not work on my PC, I've narrowed it down to software issue at this point after trying many different configurations GPU works in my I5-7600 build with B250 mining board and multiple different power supplies and cables. Reinstalling mobo bios, AMD chipsets from AMD's site and a clean install of nvidia display drivers. I've done the UEFI gpu bios update from nvidia. I haven't done a full windows reinstall yet tho. With the lack of onboard graphics, I've put my 1070 in PCI slot 1 and the 4080 on slot 2 to boot with a display. Card shows up in device manager only, with a code 43 (sometimes without the error) If I try to swap their slots, mobo just gives me a VGA error light and no display output on either card. With no display drivers installed, I don't get any display from the card and a VGA error light on the MOBO but I think it is booting since AURA lights do come on after a little time. I've got a corsair 12vhpwr 2x8pin connector to try different power setup then the splitter provided. So in summary, I know the card works with multiple power supply configs since I've ran some test gaming sessions on my intel mining setup but every normal software troubleshooting step has not got it to work on my AMD setup
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I just built a new rig and I had huge issues with the software. I got constant BSODs. All of my games crashed after a few minutes of gameplay (task manager reported GPU 3D usage spiked to 100% and the driver would crash). and windows just completely refused to install itself when I tried to do a clean install. I finally did the simplest solution and pulled out one of the RAM sticks and, what do you know, everything works great. Its snappy, stable, and running great (so far). My question is... why? Here are my specs: ASUS Tuf X570-PLUS WiFi 2x16GB sticks of Corsair Vengance 3600mhz RAM, Ryzen 7 5800X3D ROG STRIX 3080 10GB OC II 850W Corsair 80+Gold Samsung 970 EVO 500GB NVMe (for windows installation only) Several secondary drives ive collected and moved over for misc storage. I followed the MOBO instructions and placed the ram in the preferred A2 + B2 configuration. I reset the MOBO CMOS and loaded the optimal defaults. I also flashed the BIOS to the April 2022 version (4402 I believe) At this point, as long as my PC is working, im not going to complain, but I would much rather prefer to use all of the parts I bought. Does anyone have any idea what might be causing this? I noticed that someone else had the exact same issue with their X570-Plus WiFi MOBO, but they were using different RAM. Thank you everyone in advance.
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motherboard: TUF GAMING B550M-PLUS (WI-FI) cpu: Ryzen 7 5800x3D current bios version: 2006 attempted bios version: 3404 I have flashed bios updates before and I am familiar with pc stuff. I followed all the correct steps. I have confirmed with the serial number on the box and have the correct bios update for my board. I extracted the compressed folder I got from Asus. I used the rename exe that comes with the bios installation folder. The usb drive is formatted with FAT32. I have also tried multiple drives and ports on my pc. Using EZ flash prompts me with the error msg "selected file is not a proper bios". When I use the flash port and button on the board it does not flash the bios. The only thing I have found on forums is to go through older versions one by one and see if that works. Does anyone have ideas of what I should do next? Thank you.
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Hi all, I have form my work a dell docking station usbc to use my 2 monitors, keyboard etc... an power supply for the laptop also from my work. I bought a asus gaming laptop but this come whit a 240w power supply. My consern is if I can use the docking station and the power adapter at the same time in my new laptop? Is dangerous use the 2 power sources? There are 2 usb ports in my new laptop 1 usbc4 and 1 usb c dp, 100w delivery... in which I can use the docking station?
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So basically my monitor had these white vertical lines (purple when something is under them) when I turned my PC and PS5 on around the same time yesterday. I removed HDMI and DP cables, the power cord, factory reset the monitor and also updated my driver, but nothing changed, so I went to sleep after basically removing every cable. Then I woke up and the white lines are still here. I also took a screenshot and the lines don't appear on it, so it's definitly the monitor itself I think. They're on my PS5, on my PC and they are also there, when everything else is turned off, except for the monitor. I honestly think the monitor is broken, but I wanted to ask, if there is anything I can do before returning it (I bought it a year and a half ago, so it's likely still covered by warranty)
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SECOND AND FINAL UPDATE: After thorough testing I've confirmed that this is a software issue with Nvidia which is unfortunately beyond our control. I've found only one workaround and that is to turn off "Extend these displays" and use "Show only on X" (X being whatever your G-Sync monitor's number is) while you play games with G-Sync enabled. I've confirmed that this has completely resolved all issues and crashes for me. I know this isn't the solution you were expecting, especially if you use your second monitor to do other things (e.g. read chat messages) while gaming on your primary, but it's better than nothing as at least you don't have to completely unplug your secondary monitor(s) and can continue to use it as long as you don't run games. Multi-monitor G-Sync will only crash with games running, so you don't need to constantly turn G-Sync off and on while you're doing anything else (e.g. browsing or working). You'll only need to disable display extension while gaming. This solution is mostly aimed at people who use their G-Sync display as their main monitor and primarily for gaming, and only use their secondary monitor(s) for work (for example: if you are an artist and have a pen display connected). Of course, you can always just disable G-Sync altogether and use all your screens as you like without issues, and if you play competitive games (e.g. Valorant), it's recommended that you do turn it off to reduce latency. I hope this thread has helped some of you. Merry Christmas to all and a happy new year. UPDATE FOR ALL G-SYNC MONITOR OWNERS EXPERIENCING THIS ISSUE (READ THE DETAILED LETTER BELOW THE UPDATE): I've made a discovery after many tests. For currently unknown reasons, it was having G-Sync enabled with a second non-G-Sync monitor plugged in at the same time that caused the random Windows 10 crashes/freezes. I am still running further tests to figure out why G-Sync was exclusively causing this with a second monitor plugged in, but if you are having the same issue make sure you have ONLY the G-Sync display plugged in and no other monitor. This should solve any crashing/freezing issues (no guarantees of course, issues vary). It seems this is not a new issue with Nvidia, as I found similar threads for other monitors and PC specs from a few years ago, but they were using G-Sync compatible monitors. Well, seems this issue can apparently appear in native G-Sync as well. I will update this thread again when/if I have further news and/or a solution (so other monitors can be plugged in at the same time too). ----------- Hello, I recently purchased a new monitor, the ASUS ROG Swift PG279QM. It's running at 1440p 240Hz and has a native Nvidia G-Sync module. My GPU is ASUS' GTX 1080 Ti Strix OC. Nothing is overclocked. When G-Sync is on, the PC will randomly freeze forever during games until I hard-restart it via the reset button on the case. Here is how the crash proceeds: Game image will freeze entirely and permanently. Keyboard and mouse will lose signal and no longer function at all (keyboard caps lock etc. will not register either, so no LEDs). These two will maintain their electricity but if the keyboard is unplugged and replugged during the freeze, it will not get its power back. The mouse will. Though still nothing functions. Sound will keep playing in the background for about one minute but will gradually lose volume until it finally gets distorted and also gets cut off completely. At this point everything is nonoperational. Important notes: The PC does not, ever, restart on its own, regardless of how long I wait. If I don't use the reset button to restart the system, it will stay frozen like that forever. In this frozen state, the PC's hardware continues to work normally. There is no throttling or fans stopping or speeding up, everything carries on as usual. Since this is not registered as a crash/bluescreen by Windows, but just an unexpected manual restart, there is zero info on what failed prior to the freeze. If during the freeze the PG279QM is turned off and back on, it will turn on with extremely low brightness and no image (the previous game image that froze will be gone). I will still be able to open the OSD but see it just barely due to the low brightness. However, it will retain all of its settings, as the OSD will still show 1440p 240Hz and G-Sync (the LED on the monitor will also remain red indicating G-Sync is on). Note that the settings include the brightness. The monitor does not drop its setting to low brightness, it becomes dark with the normal brightness setting still there. However, if the PG279QM is unplugged from the GPU and then replugged, just like the keyboard, it will no longer receive signal at all, stating that no input was detected, at which point the brightness of the monitor returns to normal. So whatever causes the darkening specifically at least must come from a massive GPU driver crash. I also have a second monitor connected which is a 1440p 60Hz non-G-Sync one. Unlike the PG279QM, during the freeze, this monitor will retain its brightness even if it's turned off/on and/or replugged, as well as whatever image it was displaying before the freeze. This monitor will not lose signal no matter what. Nevertheless, it also stays frozen. I've used various Nvidia drivers, currently using the latest ones along with Windows 10 64-bit fully updated. If this is somehow a driver issue, it has not been looked into by Nvidia in the past 5 GPU drivers now. This bizarre freeze happens exclusively with G-Sync on and always with a game running. Especially if the game dips to 30 FPS (e.g. cutscenes, pause menus capped by the developers etc.). There has never been a crash with G-Sync off. The G-Sync freeze has almost always happened when a game was either paused or going through a loading screen at a capped 30 FPS. I've run many troubleshooting tests. The PC always runs cool even under 100% load for extended periods of time and passes all tests without errors. Unfortunately, this phenomenon is completely random and therefore impossible to recreate and troubleshoot. It could crash within an hour or go without a crash for days. Does anyone have any idea what might be happening? The monitor is brand new and appears to be working flawlessly. I also ran extensive stress tests on my PC to ensure the GPU isn't failing and got no issues. Is this perhaps a problem with Windows 10? I have not tried Windows 11 with G-Sync in games yet. After looking around online I also found the possibility that perhaps my PSU is failing. I had a 1080p 60Hz monitor before the PG279QM so it's possible that my PSU can't keep up with the massive specs upgrade. Any insight is welcome. Thank you for your time.
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Hey guys, After 2 weeks of tinkering with my new build I'm officially out of ideas how to fix my issue and I need some help. Said issue - whenever I choose any of the default OC options in BIOS (DOCP I, DOCP II or DOCP Tweaked) I get a blue screen either before Windows login screen or directly after logging in. Sometimes it works for about 5 minutes and then it BSOD's. PC is stable only when Auto is selected which limits RAMs speed to 3600MHz. CPU: Ryzen 9 7950X3D MOBO: Asus Crosshair X670E Hero (latest BIOS 1904) RAM: Corsair Dominator Platinum 4x16GB (SKU: CMT64GX5M4B5600C36) That RAM is on the QVL list. Otherwise system is perfectly stable - no overheating, no other issues. MCR works perfectly, PBO as well and the system loads in about 20 seconds or less I think. I've already tried clearing CMOS more than a few times, flashed BIOS 3 times, did clean Windows reinstall more than 10 times. Had to do all that, because there were times when the PC was at the verge of bricking itself from all the BSOD's. Like I said I'm out of ideas - should I just overclock manually? Can someone tell me how to do that if so? Or are there other ways of fixing this? Bunch of side notes: 1. I tried changing just the memory frequency in BIOS to 5200 and 5600 leaving everything else on auto, seemed more stable, but I don't know if that's safe. I think it only crashed once with that or maybe not even at all. 2. One time I got stuck in a Blue Screen Death Loop - basically couldn't get into BIOS (not responsive) and PC crashed immidiately before Windows login screen. And it just kept doing that over and over until I turned it off and cleared CMOS. 3. Don't ask me what BSOD screen says in terms of an error info - it's a whole catalogue and it's different everytime. I've got at least ~10 different causes. 4. Corsair iCue tends to not see RAM quite frequently (RGBs not syncing and not showing, etc.) even when it's not OC'ed. It works fine for a few days and then either stops completely or sees 1 or 2 sticks. I haven't figured out if it's caused by RAM itself or just iCue acting up.
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I recently bought a TUF Gaming B550m-plus motherboard from ASUS, and plenty other components and managed to build a PC which was basically new from everything other than a few components (pretty much just the storage, psu, and case remained from the previous build.) I installed windows and got to installing some apps on my new system, and everything seemed to be working pretty good, so I didn't think I'd run into any issues anywhere going forward. That is until I decided to finally go into the BIOS and turn on the DOCP settings on. As soon as i pressed save and exit, the PC would simply shut off maybe 3 or so times, and would then tell me to press F1 if i wanted to go to the BIOS settings/reset them to defaults. Whenever I'd turn off DOCP and leave the ram to run on the stock 2400mhz, the PC would boot up just fine and it doesn't seem like i'd have any issues. I got this RAM not too long ago, and i actually tested it out on my older build to see if it's defective, and after running it quickly throught the memtest and using it for about 3-4 days in my older build, it seemed to be working fine, so I didn't think there'd be any issues with this "new" PC and that RAM. The specific model is from Teamgroup, TUF Gaming alliance ram, 16GBx2 configuration rated for 3200mhz. The exact serial number (think that's what it's called?) is: TLTYD432G3200HC16FDC01. The CPU is Ryzen 5 5600X, so I figured it wouldn't have any issues running at 3200mhz with the DOCP RAM. One thing I should note is that while I DID load the DOCP on my old motherboard and CPU aswell, i tuned the frequency down to 2933mhz, because i was running a Ryzen 5 2600x, and I read somewhere that's it's most rated operating speed. Are there any ideas or suggestions on what I should do with my current config? I didn't touch anything in BIOS again after it refused to POST for the 2 times I tried doing it as I'm too scared of playing around with it, so i simply left it all running "as is" on my motherboard. The BIOS version my motherboard is running is 2803, so it's not the newest one, but I wouldn't say it's too old either.
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Hi. My Xonar U7 sounds perfectly clean when just using the line out for headphones, but when I use the mic input, it's extremely noisy. I've tried using an iFi Defender 3.0 because I thought it was a USB ground loop issue, but the noise still persists. For some strange reason, however, whenever I touch the RCA ports at the back (pictured below) the noise goes away very significantly. I guess I act as a "ground" or whatever when I do that. Would love to hear any suggestions! Thanks!
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Hello, I was looking for an X99 motherboard on FB Marketplace, and I found one from Asus, I knew it was an X99-A, but when I searched fir it on Google I did not find a MB that looked exactly the same... Can please anyone tell me what model it is? Or did he paint it??
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HI there, It's been month that my audio device went missing on the first boot and need a restart to make it appear. But, when it goes to sleep and hibernation the audio is missing again and I need to restart it. Downgrading and upgrading the driver didn't fix it, even using High Definition Audio. Even after new fresh of windows install make no difference. The audio is Conexant SmartAudio HD, using other device driver makes no different too. Is it hardware issue or newer windows that messed up audiodg? From the device events it said "requires further installation" but the driver program said it successfully installed. Event Viewer: Level Date and Time Source Event ID Task Category Error 2/4/2024 3:12:07 PM Application Error 1000 Application Crashing Events "Faulting application name: AUDIODG.EXE, version: 10.0.22621.3085, time stamp: 0x718ed491 Faulting module name: CX64BP23.dll, version: 4.81.23.0, time stamp: 0x5639e209 Exception code: 0xc0000005 Fault offset: 0x00000000000660b6 Faulting process id: 0x0x10A4 Faulting application start time: 0x0x1DA5741D7F92D9A Faulting application path: C:\Windows\system32\AUDIODG.EXE Faulting module path: C:\Windows\system32\CX64BP23.dll Report Id: 201d97ea-9a97-4b01-8722-d7b0c083fc25 Faulting package full name: Faulting package-relative application ID: "
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- conexant smartaudio hd
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BIOS version 317 Windows 11 version 23H2 Problem: Under normal usage, the laptop will perform fine for a short period, then have a line across it become completely dead to all touch or pen input just above the primary thunderbolt port (as in the image attached). There seems to be some correlation between plugging the computer in to charge and the problem beginning, as it normally can be avoided after being turned off for multiple hours, then turning it on and using it on battery life. That trend holds for the most part aside from some outlier cases where the issue will begin outside of charging the device. Nothing seemed out of the ordinary when monitoring system usage and power draw while the problem developed. The problem occurs across all application, the desktop, and while in BIOS. Attempted solutions: I've tried looking for updates to the touch and pen display drivers, but couldn't find any through windows auto-update. I've also tried uninstalling them then letting the system reinstall them. Updating windows had no effect. Question: I mainly just want to know if anyone has had this issue before on a similar device and what the issue can be a sign of, as well as how to go about fixing it. I have a hunch that either the digitizer is starting to go, it may have a bad/loose cable connection, or that there is a short somewhere. I just don't want to open up the device without a clear idea of what I should be looking for, and I don't want to have ASUS ship me a screen replacement if the problem lies elsewhere. Thank you to anyone for your help, it is much appreciated.