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Another new release from Arctic, this time an air cooler. I’ve been meaning to update mine so will look forward to reviews of this thing… https://www.arctic.de/en/Freezer-36-A-RGB-White/ACFRE00125A https://www.arctic.de/en/Freezer-36/ACFRE00121A https://www.arctic.de/en/Freezer-36-CO/ACFRE00122A
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Hey! Looking for a recommendation for adding fans to the stock Corsair 7000D PC details I'm finishing up a build of a workstation that has: Corsair 7000D no-rgb case (like: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/p/pc-cases/cc-9011218-ww/7000d-airflow-full-tower-atx-pc-case-black-cc-9011218-ww) Intel i9 14900k processor GeForce RTX 2060 6 GB video card (from my older build - no gaming here so it's good enough and I don't expect this to be changed anytime soon) Cooling setup I want to keep the CPU cool as this model is known to get very hot easily. For now I have stock fans + AIO: the Arctic 420 freezer on the top (exhaust) 2x140 corsair stock no-rgb fan in the front (intake) 1x140 corsair stock no-rgb in the back (exhaust) I want neutral or positive pressure for this one (to avoid dust from negative pressure), so I consider: add 1 more 140 fan to the front panel (intake) add a set of fans to the side panel - I'm thinking 4x120 or 3x140 if they can fit there (intake) Questions Do you think it makes sense to add all these fans or would it be overkill? Maybe just an extra 140 in the front would be enough to start, as I can always add more fans later if needed. How do you connect all this? The case has 1 fan controller which allows 6 fans to be connected. There are already 3 stock fans plugged in, so I won't be able to add 5 more fans there. I guess I will need something like Corsair Commander XT / Pro, but since I don't want any RGBs, then maybe I can use something else that's better or cheaper? Is there anything else I should consider?
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Hi there, I have ordered these parts and most of these have arrived now. Though I just watched a video yesterday saying how the arctic cooler has clearence issues with ram and so does the case, and I’m worried that it’s not going to fit, if so, does anyone have any recommendations around a different cooler 240mm since I want it to be top mounted. list for build, keep in mind, cl36 was used instead of cl 30 https://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/Lw866D
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Hey guys. I've had my new build for 2 months now and the AIO has been noticeably noisy, especially since it's sitting right next to me on the desk. The pump produces a very high pitch sound constantly. The issue is somehow more audible at idle state when I'm just browsing internet, watching youtube videos etc and disappears almost completely when in game. Here's a short video with all case fans disabled (high pitch sound is very noticeable at around 0:30) : Disclaimer : I know the AIO should be mounted with tubes coming out from the bottom but I couldn't because of GPU length. The Arctic documentation shows (and several youtube videos from gamers nexus/jayztwocents etc) that tubes coming out from the top is fine if the pump is below the highest point in the loop, which is the case here. I've contacted Arctic support and they can't really identify the issue so they told me to ask for a replacement unit, but what's keeping the next one from behaving exactly the same ? This high pitch noise is what's really driving me nuts since it's piercing through my headphones. So.. is this normal behavior for an AIO pump ? Let me know, thanks.
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I'm working on mounting my cooler and following the manual, it looks like the tubes should come down from the front half of the radiator before twisting onto the cpu with the fan for the pump on top. As far as I can tell, the important part is that the pump is oriented properly with the fan on top and that the pump be lower than the radiator with the tubes ascending. Does it matter if the tubes coming down from the radiator are in the front or the back of the case? (Still mounted on the top) Or should I stick as close to the manual as possible? I only as because twisting the tubes to align with the cpu while coming from the front top of the case feels stiff and I don't know if it will apply too much...torque? Am I overthinking this?
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I'm trying to use the A-RGB in my Arctic Liquid Freezer II AIO 280mm (latest revision), but my motherboard (MSI B450 Tomahawk Max) doesn't have any A-RGB headers. I bought this A-RGB controller: (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H241TFT?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details) and tried connecting the AIO 3-pin female connector to the controller's male 3-pin connector, and one of the fans lit up but not the other. So I hooked up a micro-USB cable to the controller and to my PC, installed the A-RGB Small Controller firmware (https://www.coolermaster.com/catalog/coolers/rgb-accessories/argb-led-small-controller/) and followed the steps (including connecting the micro-USB cable; and the app said that the firmware was updated successfully), and installed MasterPlus (https://landing.coolermaster.com/faq/install-the-cooler-master-software-in-windows/), and restarted my computer. I also have SignalRGB installed for other RGB components and peripherals, and made sure to completely turn it off so that I would be able to open MasterPlus. However, only one of the fans light up still. Does anyone else have a similar setup as I do and has been able to use the A-RGB in both fans successfully? Thanks.
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I have a 5900x with Liquid Freezer II 280 for 2.5 years now. Today it suddenly went to 95c while browsing internet and light background tasks. I let it sit off a while and launched into bios. It went to 65 then 70 then 75 so i decided to turn it off again. LF2 vrm fan still spins, the radiator fans daisy chained to the LF2 still spin. Is it possible only the pumping function got shot randomly?
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Hello, I recently moved my parts over to a Phanteks P400A. In this move I also decided to upgrade my CPU cooler to the Arctic Liquid Freezer II + my fans and bought 3 P12 fans from Arctic, too, so I could have a push-pull configuration. But, ever since I put the new cooler on and moved to a new case, my temps have actually risen. The CPU does not get any cooler than 45c. I also already reinstalled the CPU cooler thinking I had done something wrong but still had no luck. I also have tried out multiple fan curves and still have had no luck with better temperatures. If there's anyone that could help I'd greatly appreciate it. Windows 10 64 Bit Gigabyte RTX 3070 Gaming OC Ryzen 7 3700x ASUS ROG B500-F (non-WIFI) Motherboard 32GB Corsair RAM @ 3200MHz Corsair RM850x (850W) PSU Picture of my temps as I'm writing this (I only have Brave, Discord, and Foobar2000 open):
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I got Fractal meshify 2 compact which has 2 fans at front 140mm (1000rpm) and 120mm in the back. All of them 3 pin. Because my 3080 is a big boy, im pretty sure its running quite hot, because of not enough airflow/deadzone for the gpu. I bought value pack of Arctic P12 PWM PST some time ago so now i have 2 choices. 1) keep the stock fans and just add 1x P12 at the front + 1x P12 on bottom for intakes 2) add the front and bottom, but also change those stock 140mm for P12s I understand that 140mm are overall better pick over 120mm, but i also read that people change their fractal stock fans asap. Also their max rpm is 1000 rpm while P12 max at 1800 rpm and 3 pin vs 4 pin. I dont really care about the noise, my main goal is to get rid of the heat. Please share your opinion. Thanks a lot
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This weird noise has been happening for 1 or 2 months now, no performance decrease just annoying. Should I be contacting arctic? It's like a pinging sound. PXL_20230506_184251425.mp4
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Hello! Just built this PC as it follows ryzen 9 7900x asus proart x670e creator wifi psu: corsair x850m 80+ platinum I have this weir sound, please see video, coming from the pump. Seems electrical. I’m not sure. Maybe bubbles and it’s normal. Also, the PC turns on just by switching the PSU on without the case switch. I tried without the headerd (power-sw / reset-sw) on and it turns on as well. Can be the motherboard? The Psu? Please help! Thank you Nico 53E1DF1A-1237-4D89-82DB-FC7C6381E024.mov
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I am looking for a cooler for a Ryzen 7 7700x (which I may try to overclock) and I am trying to figure out the best option. Which of these are better, or is there something else at a similar price point that might be better suited for this? Case is a Gigabyte C301 Glass. Thanks!
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I was just wondering which would be better for my system. I have a ryzen 7 5800x and an rx 6700 xt. I plan on trying to have my radiator on the outside of my case so all the fan slots are open. thanks!
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So for many years my i5-11400 always topped at 78C under the heaviest load 95-100% with the stock cooler when i bought it. After around 2 years my temp became 94C under load. So i replaced my thermal paste with an MX-4 that looks like this. And the temperatures did not change. And i mean at all. So i emailed Arctic and they said its 90% fake. But they need to check with their Department of something. Anyway a friend of mine suggested the Noctua NT-H1 (I live in Egypt so a new cpu cooler is 80$+) Will the NT-H1 show any differences than the fake MX-4 im using right now? If yes is it worth it? Or do i get the cooler master mastergel pro v1 or 2?
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I tried my best to find a good thermal paste to buy where i live..(Egypt) and i couldn't find the coolermaster mastergel pro v2 that i wanted and on amazon my order got cancelled for no reason. So i got this one. I wiped the old paste off and applied this one. i can say on idle temps they did drop from 50-49 to 42-40 now. But during gaming i am afraid its the same..goes up to 87 during stress tests even (for my i5-11400 CPU) Soooo..did i just waste my money ? Or am i doing something wrong ? I tried to check if i applied enough paste from these temps by removing the cooler and yes its covered up pretty nicely no shady or dried up parts. its perfectly fitted. So what do i do..? do i just live on with it and ignore it will it damage my cpu ? or do i do something quick about it ? (Also that 87C during gaming is at 100%-90% load)
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I HAVE AIO EK 360 BASIC, AND 3 FAN ARCTIC P12 FAN? SO CAN I INSTALL 3 FAN ARCTIC P12 ON EK360 BASIC? WISH IT REDUCES THE PERFORMANCE OF AIO WHEN INSTALLING 3 FANS DIFFERENT MANUFACTURER'S FAN (VARDAR S)?
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hey, so i basically brought this cooler thinking it would give me better temperatures than my 2017 brought corsair H105 in Prime95 i use around 80 but with im getting stupid temps when doing anything minor 90-100degrees which makes the CPU Led on the motherboard come on. ive tried to turn it around on the motherboard itself no help same temps even when i put everything at 100% in the pvm settings. i'm thinking could it be a faulty cooler/pump? thanks
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- arctic liquid freezer ii
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As you know the Arctic liquid Freezer II 360 AIO features three stock Arctic P12 fans, which are daisy chained TOGETHER with the pump. What does this mean? The 3 fans + the pump is essentially a SINGLE cable that you plug in to the motherboard's pump header. QUESTION: Would e.g. three daisy chained (plugged into the Arctic LF II AIO daisy chaining cable) Corsair LL120 fans work just as well, or would that present a problem? The reason I'm asking is due to possible power requirements. I presume there is no issue, but would still like some advice, as I am still planning some things. I'm going to be powering the LED's separately via the Corsair Commander Pro. The main build: CPU: 5900X Cooler: Arctic LF II 360 Motherboard: ROG X570 Strix-E Memory: 32GB G.Skill Trident Z Neo 3600 GPU: waiting for the potential release of the RTX 3080 Ti, and for anyone asking - no I don't mind the wait, even with my components waiting quietly in storage at the moment Storage: 970 EVO Plus 2TB PSU: Corsair RM1000x Since I'm still planning this build I presume this can be posted under New Builds and Planning? If not I apologize in advance, thank you for understanding.
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I noticed this on amazon from ARCTIC so thought I would give it a shot. Not able to to extensive comparisons but here is what it looks like. Temps seem a bit better then MX-4, has not launched yet so I can't find any real info. This one is blue instead of the usual grey. Anyone try this out yet? It was cheaper then MX-4 when I got it.
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Hello. I have graphic card XFX RX 580 GTS XXX Edition 8GB. I want to open it and clean but I don't know which thickness for thermal pads I need. Some YouTube channels told that 1mm would be good. For chip I want to use MX-4 thermal paste, I think that's good enoguh, but for thermal pads I don't know. I hope you can help me. Thanks in advance. best regards, acmilan2
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So i’m upgrading a prebuilt and bought the cooler master 212 black edition which came with a small tube of mastergel pro paste. I’ve ordered some arctic mx4 on amazon however it’s took ages to ship even with prime. Is it worth it for me to wait to see if the mx4 arrives or is there not much difference between the two pastes. I’ve seen a comparison between the two however they used a ryzen 3 3100 with a stock ryzen cooler so it’s hard to see what the temps would be like with my i7 9700f and 212 cooler.
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Hello, Short story: I have a Phanteks p360a, 1080ti with arctic xtreme IV (3 slot down 1 slot up), ASUS PRIME X570-P. The gpu dos not fit the top pci slot and the motherboard manufacturer forgot to disclose on their page that their bottom PCI 4.0 16x slot is wired only as 4x. So my gpu runs at pci 3.0 4x, hence a bottleneck. The stock 1080ti cooler was an msi armor (only fit for a 1070 standard in a freezer and one of the fan died on top of it) so I would like to keep the xtreme IV. My solution would be a vertical bracket. Does anybody know any vertical bracket that could fit this weird sized gpu? (1 slot back 3 slot front) Thanks for the help in advance.
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So eventually finished my Watercooling system in the NZXT H1, Wasn't too bad Spec - Barrow Pump/Reservoir combo - LTPRPA-04 - EKWB Vector with back plate - Corsair XR5 280mm Radiator - Barrow 90 rotary fittings - Barrow 180 zigzag fittings (Radiator) - Mayhem 10/16 clear tubing - Mayhem X1 fluid - Arctic P14 fans Temps under load - 5600x - 55c - 3070FE - 60c Need to adjust the pump/fan speeds to get the best noise to cooling ratio so probably better temps soon
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Hello there I was wandering if anyone could help me with my current dilemma.... My case supports 6 fans and I want to use it's whole cooling potential. The thing is that I have a motherboard that only supports one chassis fan and from what I know the max is 5.... Now the fans that I want to buy are the Arctic P14&P12 PWM PST. That PST means that there is another connector wired into the normal PWM one just like this: What are your thoughts about this?