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Hey all, question about pairing a power supply with the UPS that I already own. I have the APC Backup-UPS 750, and it's worked perfectly with my Corsair HX 850W 80+ Silver power supply for about 10 years now. Thing is, I've been reading about newer power supplies having tighter tolerances when it comes to incoming voltage, and I know my APC UPS is a square wave. I eventually want to upgrade my GPU from my GTX 1060, which will almost certainly require me to upgrade my power supply at the same time to handle the increased load. From the little that I've learned from Google searches, my current UPS might not work with a power supply with a rating above Gold+, causing the system to just shut off during a power interuption. Is this true, and do you any of you have any recommendations for me as to how to go about this? I don't want to replace my UPS if I don't have to, so if I have to settle for a Silver or Bronze rated power supply, then so be it. I look forward to what you all have to say on this matter. Cheers.
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Hi guys I have 2 Questions and these are based on PSU and UPS. UPS details: APC Input: 230V ~2.8 A, 50Hz, 10 ( slashed Zero) Output: 230V ~ 2.6A, 50Hz, 600VA 360W PSU: CORSAIR CX450 Grey Model Question: 1. As you might notice that the UPS is of 360 Watt so is this gonna bottleneck the Corsair CX450 psu? So what will happen if I do that ? I mean would the Psu be able to draw the specified power 450watt? Question: 2. I have Corsair Spec 01 Cabinet, So I am gonna install my psu there, so what should be direction of Fan? Fan on Top or Bottom? Xc450 has "Rifle Bearing fan", so considering that what way(Fan on Top or Bottom) to install that psu for the lifespan of fan? P.S. My Pc is based on Core 2 Duo. This is my school time PC. Graphics card and Corsair Cx450 newly installed. Zotac G41 LGA 775 DDR2 dual channel RAM Core2 Duo GTX 1650 GDDR6 OC Thank you very much guys
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https://youtu.be/JOwwzO8IW9A Maybe my tech buds here can wrap there heads around this one. I never thought I'd have such results like this. This 4K Xfinity box is sucking up so much power. And I'm not even sure if it's the box entirely. Let me know what you guys think
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Hi I am in need of a new UPS for my server rack as I have outgrown the old one I had. I predict I need a 1500VA UPS. My budget is $300 and I am trying to get a pure sine wave if possible. Does anyone have any good suggestions as I see some people are reporting bad switch over times for UPS' at this price point. Thanks
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Budget (including currency): unlimited Country: India ok so I have 800 watts of pc, a 4K tv, 2 displays and an apple mac mini that would need to be connected to a ups, now I have backup generators in my place that can power everything but it takes 10 seconds for the engine to rev up, during which time there is no power, enough for the computers to die, now I need a ups, perhaps 2 that can sustain all of these devices for a minute at most ( if there are 2 ups’ one will need to power 300 watts of stuff and the other will do the rest, I can’t change that as that is how the desks are placed) unlimited budget, the sockets in India are 220-240 volt and I have something around 15 amp breakers so pls help me find the cheapest ups that can fit the criteria either one or 2 ups’ will do ( 2 might be preferable as it’ll help with the wiring) note smart ups’ which connect with the generator or something are not possible, all they should be able to do is sit between the wall and the pc’s and make sure the power is uninterrupted from the power going out to the generator automatically kicking in
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Hi, I just bought and had delivered an APC BX1500M battery backup for my computer. I have plugged it into the wall and installed the PowerChute software, but I have not plugged anything into it yet (other than the data cable to pair it with the software). Does it need to charge or something for a period of time? I read through the manuals, and everything points to no, but I still remember when everything that had a rechargeable battery has to sit connected to power for at least 24 hours before being used. Is this still the case? Thanks
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PSU: SuperFlower Leadex Titanium 750w UPS: APC Smart-UPS SMT1500IC Hi all, hoping someone can help. I purchased the above UPS to help my Unraid server shutdown safely in an outage. First time using a UPS, I followed the basic setup steps as described in the box (FYI battery was showing as 99% charged when first powering the unit on) but I’m seeing some really strange behaviour. The server is the only device connected to the UPS. I booted the server up and entered the Bios. I was about to select the boot device manually when the server suddenly died and then kept trying to turn on and off in a loop constantly. I had to kill the switch on the PSU to stop the loop. After flicking the PSU back on I tried to turn it back on but no joy, so I unplugged the power cable coming from the PSU and reconnected a standard power cable from the mains socket. This time the server POSTed, although it showed a "Chassis Intrude! Please Check Your System Fatal Error" message. I powered down and reconnected the power cable coming from the UPS. This time the server would power up (I can hear the drives spinning up), but the activity light didn’t flash nor did the POST screen appear. I looked at the screen on the APC and it was showing input 251v, output 223v. I powered down and swapped to mains power, at which point it boots up as expected. I then left the server for a couple days powered down, but the UPS turned on. This afternoon I tried to boot the server up again with power connected via the UPS and it successfully booted. I checked the screen on the APC at this time and it was showing input and output voltage at 249. Everything was operating as expected for about 7hrs, when I noticed I could no longer remote into the server. I went to take a look and found that the monitor was off and keyboard/mouse didn't wake the system, but server was powered on with no activity lights flashing. The screen on the APC now read input 249v, output 221v. I turned off the mains power socket leading to the APC, forcing it into battery mode. As soon as I did that the server came back to life and the monitor came on, showing that the system was rebooting, post/bios screen etc not sure if the output voltage dropping is an indicator of a problem or if the problem is setup elsewhere Can anyone shed any light on where things are going wrong with my setup? Thanks :)
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I decided that with my new build I wanted to purchase a UPS to plug it into. I admit I didn't do my homework thoroughly enough and purchased an APC BACK-UPS 1100VA/600W model# BN1100M2. After getting the unit home I did some more research and found that most modern PSU's (including the Corsair RM650 I purchased for my new build) have a feature called 'active PFC' which means they need power delivered in true sine wave form. The BN1100M2 does not do this, it delivers power in a 'stepped approximation to a sine-wave,' which could cause the computer to shut down unexpectedly in the event of a power outage and switching over to battery power. However, on the APC product page for the BN1100M2, if you click the button next to "Want additional product information?" it mentions the product is "active PFC compatible." Further down the page it says this, "APFC Compatibility: Ensures electronics that have active PFC power requirements will not unexpectedly shut down when switching from utility power to battery power during an outage." This is literally all they say about this feature. Link to APC Product Page, click the blue button that says "Show Product Overview" to see the listed feature in the "Overview" section. One more weird thing is that the model number match between the website and the actual box the UPS came in, but the website calls it the Back UPS PRO, whereas PRO is not mentioned anywhere on the box I have. Does anyone know if I can use this UPS fine with my current PSU thanks to the "active PFC compatibility" feature, or should I return the model I have and switch to one that outputs in true sine wave form?
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I would like to test the events so I can test that my scripts do indeed do what they are intended to do, as of now when I had a power surge it looks like it did not run the script as it was supposed to notify me. If I run the same script it does indeed work. I have it under root which from my understanding is the same user apcupsd uses. The log of the apcupsd confirms that it indeed did loose power.
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Hello! I have a Gaming System with APC UPS (Back UPS 1100, 4 Years Old). I'm facing some issues with it now. It was working fine for last 4 years, but starting facing the issue from last 1 week. Sometimes Monitor looses the Display Signal (Monitor doesn't turn-off but looses the display signal which causes the screen go black for a second and then comes back). Mostly, My System gets off (without proper shut-down) or re-starts. Both issues happens whenever there is a Power flowing rightly (not Electricity Cut). I have removed the UPS and my system is working fine and monitor also. Could you please help me with this in finding, What's the issue? Thanks! System Details: CPU: Intel i7-4790K Motherboard: ASUS Maximus Hero VII RAM: Corsair 16GB PSU: RM650i GPU: Asus Strix OC Edition GTX 970 System Life: 4 Years Old UPS Life: 4 Years Old.
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I posted a similar Cyber Power 1500 VA UPS back on Cyber Monday/Black Friday. This time, it's APC! Same capacity for only $120. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VY6FXMM GET IT ASAP!
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This is a pvlog of me attempting to fix my APC Smart UPS 3000 So i have a APC Smart UPS 3000 that has been sitting in my Server Rack doing nothing.So i thought i would try to get it up and running. But first let me explain why i haven’t even plugged it in before. the reason is This: That is a L5-30R Or 30 amp 125V twist lock L5-30R. so im sure you get it i don’t have one of these plugs and i cant have one installed because i rent (im also moving soon so there would be no point) so i started looking to see if thet have converters form this plug to a reguler 15 amp 120v 5-15p Plug. AND THEY DO:http://www.ebay.com/itm/370925254588?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649 but its 25$ which is a fair price but i don’t even know if the ups works. which brings us to batteries.The main reason its not working. my batteries are in really bad condition they have been completely flat for months (there probably done for) Its a 120$ to replace all 8 batteries so i thought it would be worth trying to save the batteries with something called equalization. equalization is when you overcharge the batteries and then add distilled water. it only works for flood asid batteries. and that’s what the ups has. Here are some videos on equalization and what is is: How to do it:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xMM8nkznXgU What is it for:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zrUal2YW1vk So now i know the first thing i need to do Fix the batteries. So i took the 200(or at least what it feels like) lb ups out of there server rack and down stairs (almost fell going down)and into the garage. Now i need to get the batteries out normally you open the front to take the batteries out. but im also going to open the top (which is not suppose to be open by end user you know no user servisebe parts kind of thing it dosent apply to me.) Ive already taken out one of the batteries to see how to open them. and all the whirring is just hanging in the front (just in case you thought that’s how it goes) So now to open all the batteries As you can see im wedging and cutting into the small gap that goes around the cover.after i got a gap i stook a slat head screw driver and slowly posed it off (note when tou pop it off you break the tabs that hold it down the only way to keep the cover on is to tape it down) Once you get it open yull see 6 rubber capes the are for each cell of the battery. we need to take them off to access the vent ports. To take them off just put a flat head at the bottom of the cap. and pull it up. yull hear air come out (some times) when you pop them off Make shur you put the caps somewhere safe you will need them when you put it back together Some of the caps will have asid residue on them (or maybe its electro lite?) what ever it is i cleaned it out of all my caps with a coffee filter. I also cleaned around the vent ports with a coffee filter. Now that you have all the tops off and caps and everything is cleaned. line up the batteries (if you want to be neet ) as you can see i put my caps on the tops (neet freak maby?) Now its time to put in distilled water. some people say to fill it to the top other say 7/10ml but apparently the battery manufacturer has it it in the docs. (im to lazy to go find that so ill just put 10ml per cell) I used a Graduated Cylinder to measurer how much i put in and to pour it in to the small holes (that what she said) Ok it took me a long time to fill all 8 batteries 48 ports/cells but now im done Now its time to whir them up. there whirred up in series.( i just used the photo on the door to figure out how to whir them up) Now this part gets a little weird i don’t have a battery charger (or over charger) so i used the one i made for my bike.You can check that project out here:http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/146794-custom-bike-with-motor/ so now i have it all wird up to the bike charger a side problem is that the charger is only 10.2v 900ma so in other words its more of a float charger then a actual charger and i need to be over charging them at 15/20v but it fully charges the bike battery so i thought is i could get the ups batteries to show that they can hold a voltage that one i get the ups up it can charge them or i could buy a 12v charger with a equalization setting. but for now ill try this one 4 hours later the batteries show no sigh of life (i should probably let you guys know im using a 6v moter to test it i don’t have a volt meter my old broke i might but a new one for this) i gave it another 5 hours and still nothing (im probably not punting enough voltage in to beat the resistance.) but just to be sure i didn’t mess up the charger whirring i hooked up the bike battery with the others and charged for 3 hours. (the bike battery was also flat couldn’t start the 6v moter but after the short charge it could) so its not the charger its ether that the charger is to weak to charge them or that the batters are dead (possibly both) so now i need to get a battery charger and a volt meter really find out what’s going on. if you have any suggestions let me know. also if you know of a cheap 12v battery charger let me know if it has a equalization setting that would be a bug plus. this is the volt meter im getting: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EK3NRS/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B005EK3NRS&linkCode=as2&tag=wwwmichaelste-20&linkId=OKZZ2WKO4IA5P6UX this is the 12v charger im looking at:http: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051D3MP6/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0051D3MP6&linkCode=as2&tag=wwwmichaelste-20&linkId=5KQRPQLEMAMHEIBN">Black & Decker BM3B 6V and 12V Battery Charger / Maintainer</a><img src=" or http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G8AIMU/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001G8AIMU&linkCode=as2&tag=wwwmichaelste-20&linkId=W22ILDL6KH3FQQUK