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I have a MSI MAG B550 TOMAHAWK motherboard and an Amd Ryzen 7 3700x processor and I do not know why the voltage is so high on the processor if I open the browser or if I start doing something, the load on the processor is small but then the voltage on the processor is raised to 1.430V, this is high voltage on the processor. Even with the BIOS, the voltage is still 1.475V. Still, when I am a BIOS, when I move the mouse, the mouse cursor stutters there is about 5FPS and the BIOS itself, I do not know why. When I turn on the energy saving mode in Windows, the processor works at a maximum voltage of 0.930 and when I turn on the balanced mode, the voltage is high, just like typing, but also the mouse cursor cuts off from time to time. Maybe update the BIOS but I'm afraid to update the BIOS but I know how to do it. The current BIOS which is from 2020.03.09 and I did not find this BIOS on the motherboard manufacturer's website are newer but this is not there, so I am afraid to update the BIOS because there is no one and then I could go back. Help please. Thank you.

I have an Amd Ryzen 7 3700x processor and a MSI MAG B550 TOMAHAWK motherboard. After updating the BIOS, the voltage does not increase to 1.475V as often as it was before. All I need to do is open the browser and the processor will immediately raise the clock speed to 4.475 MHz, this is the maximum clock speed for all cores for this processor, but when opening the browser, such high clock speed is not needed and the voltage rises to 1.475V. As I play a game that loads the processor up to a maximum of 10%, the processor clock speed is still years from 3.599 MHz to 4.475 MHz and the load does not change is still 10% and the processor changes the clock speed every second as if the load changes. How to fix it? Help please.

Hi all! I have a little bit of a weird issue with my system after updating to the latest BIOS. Before I begin, here is my complete setup from my PC Parts Picker list: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/liberty610/builds/#view=BqHhP6 Ok, so my motherboard is the Gigabyte Aorus X570 Xtreme motherboard. I bought it shortly after it was released, and had only updated the BIOS one time. I was previously on version F30. I made the jump to Windows 11 and after doing some reading about Ryzen improvements, I also updated my BIOS to the latest version; F35d. After updating the BIOS, I unplugged the system, tapped the power button a couple times to drain all remaining power, and then hit the 'Clear Cmos" button. It's loaded up with "optimized defaults" and the only changes I made in the bios where I turned on XMP profile for my ram and I turned off the boards LED lights. So everything else is the "optimized" default settings. Everything is working great overall, but here is a couple odd issues that never occurred until this latest BIOS version. Anytime I am in Windows and I click "Restart", it does restart, but for some reason, instead of the power staying on and doing it a 'soft reboot' if you will, it does a hard reboot where the board cuts all power for a moment (as if the power was cut from the outlet), and then shortly after it turns back on and boots. Normally, under any of the older BIOS versions it just remains fully powered on and restarts/boots. But this is a full power off state. All my fans and LEDs turn off and then everything comes back on. Then other issue is, if I am in Windows and choose 'Shutdown', it shuts down like normal, but the next time I hit the power button to power it back on, the lights and fans come on for a second, then it turns itself completely off again for a brief moment, and then it turns back on again and boots. This isn't normal behavior is it? I was not having either of these issues until I updated to the last F35d BIOS version. Anyone else having these happen? Any ideas? Thanks for any replies/input!

Anyone know why my 5800X is running BELOW the 3.8Ghz Base clock? How do I fix this?

Hey everyone, hope y'all are enjoying yourselves. I may have the opportunity to upgrade in the coming weeks but I'm having a hard time deciding parts. I'd be purchasing the parts in the US and my budget limit is $1000 My current build: CPU i7 6700 (non-k edition / no OC) Motherboard HP IPM17-DD (v1.04) (This was ripped from a HP prebuilt so I could use the intel CPU) GPU Red Devil 5700XT (no OC) RAM Micron 2x8GB 1866MHz DDR3 (pulled from some old prebuilt) PSU Seasonic m12II 750w 80+ Bronze (admittedly I've lost the bag of spare cables) Storage Mushkin REACTOR 1TB SSD Case Fractal Design Define R4 (It's a little too large, missing a side panel, and its extra parts) Please note: I have a pretty good time with how this PC runs but I feel there is definitely room for improvement. What do I use my rig for? Mostly gaming. Valve Index, and a large variety of pancake games, as well as using Ableton. What am I looking for? More stability and power for games. For VR I would like to push over 90Hz with high-ish settings without dropping as many frames. Pancake games I want to push for 120fps @ 1440p with high to max-ish settings. I have experience in the past with overclocking AMD FX chips and AMD cards so I would like to return to being able to push my hardware. I know I need more storage and would like a new case. Some parts I feel are dated or relatively low spec like the motherboard, and maybe the RAM? Where do I stand in terms of my GPU/CPU and looking to upgrading? Parts I've been looking at: AMD Ryzen 5600x MSI MPG B550 GAMING EDGE Corsair CX 750w 80+ Bronze PC cases under $100 2x8GB DDR4 3600MHz kits So, where do you think my money is best spent? Should I hold off on some things? I recently got new peripherals so I feel like I'm set in that area. Thanks in advance you beautiful people and sorry for my poor formatting abilities.

Hello, I need help I don't know what would be better in between the 2 graphic cards in a gaming laptop 1660 Ti max P and 3050 I'm scared that the 3050 don't have enough Vram that's my biggest concern (mostly playing triple A games GTA/Witcher/Just cause and other like dirt raly 2.0, Civ ...) And my other big concern is that the 1660 has ddr3 ram I don't know how bad or how better ddr4 would be and last the processor is the I-5 8300H will it be enough? I'm of course opened to other proposition (My perfect pc would be a Risen with a Nvidia 3050/60, 8go of ram upgradeable, doss i can do it myself, space for 1 NVMe and one sata so that I can add storage under 1000€) of course this is hard to find but I can make compromise on the graphic card for example an older one with more Vram. Ty for your help Here are the Links to the store if you need more info. https://www.darty.com/nav/achat/informatique/ordinateur_portable-portable/portable/acer_an515-545137i5_16_12.html https://www.darty.com/nav/achat/informatique/ordinateur_portable-portable/portable/dell_g15_r7_16_12_3060_1.html https://www.darty.com/nav/achat/informatique/ordinateur_portable-portable/portable/dell_g15_i5_8_12_3050.html#product_caracteristics

Hey guys, I build myself a new PC with following specs: Motherboard: ASUS TUF GAMING B550 PLUS CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X GPU: ASUS Strix GTX 1060 6GB RAM: 4x8GB 3600MHz G.Skill SSD: Samsung EVO 500GB NVMe PSU: Corsair RM850 I updated the BIOS to Version 1401. After that the PC bootet, I tried to install Windows but after the necessary reboot I won't get any video output. Not even BIOS. I tried HDMI, DisplayPort also my old ASUS Strix GTX 970 but nothing. CMOS reset also didn’t helped. Debug LED also is useless. Do you have any idea? Googling and asking all my friends with ASUS Motherboards didn’t helped either.

Budget (including currency): Up to 1500 leva (~750 euros) Country: Bulgaria Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: To be used mainly for gaming and 3d modeling with Blender, some photo editing with GIMP. Other programs I'd like to use- Inkscape, Adobe InDesign. Games: Currently I play Smite the most, but I'd like to play some of the newer games. By newer I mean from 2015 onward, since I can't run The Witcher 3. When it comes to workload whenever I work I tend to switch between programs a lot. Opening and closing them when not it use but still. And of course back to gaming- I would like to use some programs in the background such as Discord without being afraid I put too much stress on the computer. Other details My current setup is as follows: Win. 7 64-bit SP1, CPU- i5-4460 @ 3.20Ghz, Single channel 8 GB RAM, GPU- GTX 960. The current monitor I am using is like 10-ish years old with max resolution 1400x900 and 60Hz refresh rate. With this monitor I must have V-Sync on or I get extreme screen tearing I'd love to be able to play newer games, but I still have some old classics that I wouldn't be willing to let go, so it's quite important to be able to play older games too (So I wonder between Linux and Win10, but that's another topic.) High FPS doesn't matter to me as long as its stable. 60 FPS would be perfect for me. When it comes to resolution- again I don't care much as long as it doesn't have black borders around it. I guess 1080 is standard and would be best? And for my actual questions: Should I buy a whole new machine or upgrade this one? And if the latter then what should I upgrade since all the parts are quite old at this stage. Do I just add some RAM? Or do I switch the CPU/GPU but then I might new motherboard and/or power supply? And finally: Is this machine worth it- AMD Ryzen 5 3400G/8 GB/240 GB SSD/1 TB HDD/RX5500XT compared to what I have (Forgot to mention I am using DDR3 and the other machine is using DDR4) Just to clarify, my current machine meets my needs almost perfectly and it has served me well for the past 5+ years. Even so I would like to know if I can pull out more from it just by upgrading or should I just get something with AMD Ryzen in it seeing how its so much better than what I got and it's quite cheaper than mine was at the time. And finally I'd love it if I can get some directions for where I can learn about upgrading once machine. Thank you for your time!

Here is a basic reveal video I created about the Dell Inspiron G5 15 5505 with AMD hardware. Just the stats, unboxing and post. The invoice states it is a Dell “Inspiron” G5 15 5505. Im new to this type of Dell laptop....and to my surprise it has a turbo gaming “G” button and separate keyboard lighting function button. During the initial software load up it got hung up after cortana.....no surprise there (Microsoft stuff always seems to do that to me) and I did a force restart. I got Diablo III to work on it. That froze up too the first time. After another restart, I witnessed very smooth graphics with no shuttering or lost frames. Crisp image and sound. My old Inspiron 15 5555 AMD A8 could “just” manage to play it..... I said PCLE.......I meant PCIe (PCI express).....lol

(oh before we start yes I'm aware of the non-existent supplies of the 5600x but I can wait if it seems like the 5600x is better for me) I'm looking to get a CPU but trying to decide which would be better for my usage. I have the budget already set aside for either one. But I use my PC for mainly gaming, I have a 1440p ultrawide monitor...but when it comes to AAA single player, story focused games I play them on my Samsung 50inch 4K HDR TV(ex. Death Stranding, Watchdogs, Assassin Creed, and Cyberpunk). I don't play any eSport titles or competitive FPS(Fortnite, Call of Duty, CS) and I don't stream or content creation. I also work from home but nothing intense just having a web browser open and Microsoft apps. Soo with that knowledge my fellow IT wizards which would yall suggest, oh and below is my PC spec with notes: Aorus X570 Elite WiFi PCIe 4.0 G.SKILL Trident Z 32GB 3600MHz RTX 2070 Super (already have budget set aside to upgrade to either RTX 3080 or AMD 6900XT) Thermaltake Toughpower 750 W 80+ Gold Fyi: If it matters cpu will be water looped cooled.....i said that weird but I will leave it lol

Hello , Its my first post on the community. I lately installed a custom water loop (soft tube) on my system. CPU : Ryzen 7 3700 X GPU : Gigabyte RX 5700 XT Gaming OC M/B : Gigabyte X570 Aorus Elite RAM : 2 x 8GB DDR4 Patriot 3733Mhz (@XMP 3733 - 16/19/19/38/56 ) PSU : Corsair TX 850-M HARD DISKS : Samsung 240gb 970 evo plus M.2 / Samsung 512gb SM961 M.2 / WD SCorpio 320 GB / WD BLUE 1TB CASE : Deepcool Matrexx 55 I had relativelly high temperatures especially in the GPU. I had tried many times to repaste the card and put new thermal pads and tighten the screws and everything with a bit better temps ( from 110 C hotspot to -> 90~95 C). I then installed an Arctic Accellero Xtreme IV and had very good temps on the GPU-HOTSPOT(around ~ 60 C gpu / ~ 85 C hotspot) but very high VRAM temperatures ( > 95-100C) even after installing back plate and small copper heatsinks with thermal adhesive glue. After many tries with thermal tape on the small heatsinks (on VRAMs and Mosfeets and VRM capacitors) the temperatures had fallen a bit to around 90-95C VRAM but not stable with a 120mm fan also straight pussing air on the arctic backplate. All this temps were under load in games and in Furmark After GPU stress test 10-20 minutes... With the CPU I didnt have problems because I had installed an Arctic Freezer Esports 2 duo and had very good temps(as on the reviews) with relativelly low noise). Anyway , long story short , I decided to installed my first Custom Water loop for CPU & GPU and went with soft tubing (easier for first try etc etc). CPU BLOCK : Freezemod AM4 -> https://www.banggood.com/Red-Copper-Plate-CPU-Water-Cooling-Block-Waterblock-0_3mm-Water-Channel-Injection-for-AMD-AM4-p-1401576.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN GPU BLOCK : Custom for Gigabyte rx5700 xt gaming oc -> https://hybridcooling-modding.fr/gpu/200-waterblock-rx-5700-xt-gaming-oc-8g.html Radiator : Bykski 360mm (I think its slimmer than normal) -> https://www.banggood.com/BYKSKI-B-RD360-TN-G14-14-Tubes-360mm-Copper-Computer-Radiator-Water-Cooling-CPU-PC-Liquid-Water-Heatsink-p-1591744.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN Pump : Tank+Pump Combo -> https://freezemod.com/product/freeze-mod-pump-reservoir-kit-for-computer-water-cooling-system-rgb-control-or-aura-synchronizationpub-fs6pd-17/ Bykski fittings + soft tubes / Radiator is in Push Pool mode with fans on both sides (Enermax & Arctic fans etc) After many tries and problems occured I finally managed to install the GPU Block and everything but had high VRAM temperature again (> 100 C after furmark 10-20 minutes) even though the GPU Block had an area that covered the VRAMs also ( with thermal pads ).... So I installed the Back Blate from Arctic Accellero xtreme IV also with thermal pads and also a 120mm fan on top to cool the VRAM and finally after many many tries and modifications I have reached an acceptable (for me at least ..) setup of everything. I want to post the temperatures now that I have in my system with the custom loop and if anyone with more experience can tell me if the temps are OK now or any other suggestion about my system because it is the first time for me and of course I probably had done a mistake or two ( some were fixed during the proccess...) So now After 30 minutes of stress test on both GPU & CPU (Furmark on Gpu STRESS test @ 1440 + Prime 95 at smallest FFP) I saw temperatures : GPU : around 50 C mostly max 53 C GPU Hotspot : around 70 mostly max 75 C VRAM : around 80 mostly max 84 C VRM : around 80 mostly max 81 C CPU : around 67-68 mostly max 70 C This temperatures are also the same when playing games (not constantlly) with very small variatons (2-3 C on the gpu hotspot and 2-3 C on the cpu). Vram & VRM is much much lower ( due to the lowest memory controller load of course ) when playing games VRAM sits at around 70 C and VRM also sits at around 70 C after 2-3 hours of gameplay (Horizon zero dawn - Doom Eternal - PUBG etc etc) with very small variatons +- 3-4 C. Are these temperatures OK considering everything ??? *the temps are with the pump contant working @ 100 % (~3500 rmp) because if I lower @ 70% or less GPU HOTSPOT rises up to 80-85 C and CPU temp also rises 2-3 C at least.* Is it ok to use the pump at 100 % all the time ??? * as long as the noise is very low (It doesnt bother me at all barelly audible , fans are much more audible @ 50-60% - probably a D5 pump on the part) * *Thermaltake Cryonaut was used as thermal paste in CPU and GPU but in CPU I didnt put a lot of paste to cover the edges also so I think I can mod this the next time I will service my loop because I know Ryzen tend to have high temps on the edges on the CPU Die and need to cover the hole cpu surface very good with thermal paste...* *Last thing to inform is tha I use FRTC from Registry in order to Cap frames at 118 since I use a Samsung Qled TV with FREESYNC 1440@120hz and its the only way as long as I have tested to effectivelly cap my fps lower than the screens higher freequency for Freesync to work properly* So many games are running @ 118 fps capped at times like PUBG and DOOM and not using 100% of GPU all the time and others like HORIZON @ 65-75 fps constantly using 100% of GPU. The card is running on 2050 mhz Core / 1750 memory / 1068mV voltage - (without issues from the undervolt have tested the card for hours for errors bsods etc) TimeSpy Results : ~ 9950 Points Horizon Benchmark@1440 ultra settings & freesync : 69 - 70 Fps Sorry for the long post. I wanted to include everything ...

I want to sue YouTube for my Bricked motherboard. I was watching a tutorial on YouTube for enabling TPM 2.0 and installing Windows 11 on a Gigabyte B450m DS3H board. I wanted to upgrade to Windows 11 on my PC, but the setup kept telling me my system doesn't meet the minimum requirements. The guy in tutorial changed the TPM setting to enable and also changed secure boot platform key settings, so I followed the steps and behold, my motherboard is now bricked! I wish I could've seen the dislikes on that tutorial or read the description before attempt. Tell me how do I reach YouTube to get my motherboard's worth of money back or you guys give me good motherboard recommendations for micro ATX form factor pc. My current PC specs are: CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X GPU: Gigabyte Windforce AMD RX580 8GB OC Cooler: Silverstone PF 240mm AIO ARGB Memory: Corsair Vengeance 32GB (8x4) DDR4 3000Mhz Storage: Crucial P2 500GB m.2 nvme SSD, WD Green 240GB Sata SSD PSU: Corsair RM1000X Case: Silverstone Fara H1M

My old laptop has crashed and hard drive failed. I am looking for replacement for work and light gaming. My work involves data analysis, machine learning and computationally intensive applications. I also use it while travelling, and I travel quite a bit. I have narrowed down to two choices, with only difference in Graphics card. One comes with Nvidia RTX 3060 6GB DDR6 and other with Nvidia 3050 4 GB DDR6. RTX 3060 laptop is expensive by $500, and comes with a 90 Whr battery compared to 56 Whr battery with RTX 3050. Also, both laptops come with 1920 x 1080 Full HD 15.6 Display. The laptop with 3050 has a refresh rate of 144 Hz, compared to 300 Hz on the RTX 3060 laptop. The display is not my real priority, as it is usually connected to an external monitor. I am not sure, if the difference in performance is worth $500. Any suggestions would be of great help. Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

Thanks for any help in advance! A little backstory: I built two generally identical PC’s. Recently updated the BIOS and Windows (in that order) on one of the machines. It ran through the rest of the day but the following morning would not boot. Issue: Boot loop into BSOD where three different stop codes alternate appearing. I.e. first message appears, then when the restart occurs sometimes one of the other messages will appear) Stop Codes presented: ”Kernel security check failure” “Unexpected kernel mode trap” ”System thread exception not handled” I understand most people point to a driver issue and have seen recommended steps to resolve. However, I cannot seem to get to any of the aptly mentioned areas. Cannot load Windows (Thus can not figure out how to create dump files), WinRE, Safe Mode, Bootable USB Media. All attempts bring me to this screen. I’ve seen rare instances of it preparing to repair but it kicks to the stop code screen within no more than 2 seconds. Being that I have two essentially identical systems I swapped the NVME SSD’s to test. Result: The issue does not follow the SSD. Swapped the RAM as well with no change. Haven’t swapped the CPU’s yet as I need to find my thermal paste (though I feel this may not be necessary). Specs: Windows 10 64-bit (Up-to-date) ASUS ROG STRIX B450-F Gaming BIOS Version 3003 AMD Ryzen 3200g G.SKILL 16GB (2 x 8GB) Ripjaws V Series DDR4 PC4-25600 3200MHz Corsair CX Series 650W 80 plus bronze If these issues arose due to incompatibility of drivers with an update or other Windows OS specific problem. Why would the issue persist when a different Boot SSD was used? At any rate, I’m at a loss and very much appreciate any help in finding a resolution here. Thanks all.

I'm currently upgrading my pc to a new Ryzen build coming from an Intel 4770k. I mostly game and edit videos. I had ordered some trident z RGB ram 3200 C16 that was only $75 USD for 2x8gb. I was going to order another set to have a total of 32GB. However I know that 3600mhz C16 RAM will help my processer run a bit faster but, for that RAM it would be about $35 USD more. Is the price difference worth it for the gains i will be getting?

Hello there. I was just designing a PC build in pcpartpicker and I noticed that Crucial sells a 3600MHz CL16 2x8GB kit for 40€ less than G Skill or Corsair (103€ vs 139€). I have researched it a bit and it is because Crucial uses Micron E-dies instead of the famous Samsung B-dies. From what I have seen in others builds, it is fairly often paired with a Ryzen CPU, but I wonder if that's a good pair and easy to get to 3600mhz or if I should settle for 3600Mhz CL18 from G Skill or Corsair (around 116€).

Budget (including currency): 51USD Country: Venezuela Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Learning basics of video editing, playing some racing games and multimedia Other details: It is a "plan b" upgrade build because I wasn't supposed to build a 2nd desktop to remedy my situation. I have a Gigabyte B450 Aorus Pro Wifi right now and an AMD Ryzen 3 1200 AF coming. After some issues, the planned computer with a Ryzen 7 2700X and a kit of G.SKILL DDR4 3600MHz 16GB RAM isn't going to be made for some time. I have some issues with a family member making a shipment right now, so I decided to ignore that fact and complete the build with the RAM I need. Only thing? I don't know which RAM should I choose. This R3 1200 AF is basically a 2nd gen Ryzen so, maybe 2400 to 3200MHz stick? Do I need to have a kit with 2x4GB or it can be a single 8GB stick? What about all the stuff about B-dies? How do I know which is which? I already have a PC with the following specs. This is the one I'm using and the one I'm going to upgrade: AMD A6-7400K OC @4.3GHz + CM Hyper 212 Evo Gigabyte GA-F2A88X-UP4 HyperX 2x4GB DDR3 2133MHz Gigabyte AMD Radeon RX570 Gaming 8G Various HDDs (I know. I need to get a SSD) CM V700 80 Plus Gold fully modular Thermaltake New Soprano Snow White. I know maybe 51$ isn't enough to buy the best kits this build needs, but I really want to upgrade now and maybe, when the planned upgrade finally comes, I can use those parts to upgrade my parents PC. Basically what I'm saying is: I don't care that much about if it is a green Crucial stick or that it doesn't have RGB. I want a RAM that is at least compatible to get me working (with more power than my current config) and from a brand that I can trust, with products that last longer.

Can there be a temporary shortcut or something that inserts, "We don't know whether X is better than Intel, so pleas don't ask" Just saying

Hey guys! So I'm about to upgrade my "old" pc, which currently has a i5-4460 on a Z97 pc mate motherboard, I'm getting to the point where my CPU can't keep up with the current games, when I want to max stuff out with my GTX 1070. First of all I'm wondering if it's worth upgrading to a new motherboard with the benefits of PCIe 3.0. If I'm not to upgrade i'll simply go for a i7-4790k/. Or should I go buy a new motherboard + CPU + Ram, I know this is a more expensive set but I don't think I have any intentions of upgrading my pc anymore for a while if I'm going with this. If going with this option, should I go for the new AMD Ryzen 1700? Or an intel build? My last concern is, if going for i7-4790k or AMD Ryzen 1700, if my BloodFreezer 510LC liquid cooler will be enough for the i7-4790k? And better than the stock cooler supplied with the Ryzen 1700? And will it fit the new motherboards? Or is the sizing different? Thanks if even just answering one or few of my many newbie questions! Appreciate all help I can get from you pros!

I just pre-ordered the 1700x! I'm going to use it in my "Road to Ryzen" project build I'm currently doing. That build is going to replace my current i7-4770k, and since IPC between a Haswell core and the Ryzen core seem to be about the same I wonder if certain tasks (such as rendering videos?) will be completed in half the time they are now! Also, I've been wondering why the 1800x is 100$ more expensive then the 1700x since there is only a 200Mhz difference in clock, which wouldn't matter too much to a manual overclocker anyway? What do you guys think? Is the 1800x more for people who DON'T overclock and rely on what the chip does itself and the 1700x is the one to get for manual overclockers, or what's the deal? Exciting times!

https://videocardz.com/65747/amd-ryzen-7-1800x-1700x-and-1700-listed-online The age of Intel is over, the age of AMD has begun (again).

Okay.. back at it again with some ryzen news... yet again i was looking into ryzen overclocking videos.. when i came across this from amd's own site! https://community.amd.com/community/gaming/blog/2017/03/14/tips-for-building-a-better-amd-ryzen-system Basicly it's about how to optimize your build.. but also states some of the issues that will be fixed with patches down the road.. However the interesting part of this was the game optimization! The game tested was "F1" racing game and how correct optimization is important.. So the game creates a file explaining what hardware the computer has, cpu/threads and so on.. this gets sync via steam cloud and re-synced to another computer if you reinstall the game.. Now the issue is if you have installed this on a 4core/4t CPU in the first place.. the game on a ryzen build will not notice its a 8c/16t cpu!... but rather the old 4C/4T due to the resync gamefiles... If fixing the resync game files (etc deleting them) the game then thinks its a 16 phycical core cpu... However this can also be fixed.. as this is a 8C/16T cpu.. not a 16 core cpu Now manually editing the game file to correctly look at a 8C/16T CPU the game gains even more performance.. a wooping 35.53% more performance in 1080P gaming! From 98.5 fps to 133.5 FPS - Now this just shows how important game optimization is... F1 is not the only game saving files about hardware setup, alot of games do! So getting game optimization is VERY important! And just shows that the "1080p gaming" issues might not even be relevant when game developers fix their games!

So hello guys I'm planning on getting a new PC (I actually still would love some advice as you can see https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/747322-i-need-advice-for-my-first-pc-build-any-thoughts-on-what-i-could-improve/#comment-9464827) and this thing should be Ryzen powered because I wanna do Video editing and stuff. Now is my question should I get an alternative cooler, or is the included Wraith Spire one actually decent enough for normal usage and probably even overclocking (but not sure yet because I've never overclocked and have no idea how to not fuck things up). Has anyone made any experience with the cooler and what cooler would you recommend if this one's not enough? Thank you guys for any help - Ray

Are you going to buy an AMD Ryzen cpu? Why and which cpu? To me if I was going to buy an AMD Ryzen cpu it would be the AMD Ryzen 1800x because it's the top end model.

Will the Ryzen 4-core be more powerful for gaming and production than the 8 cores of the 8350? I mean, as you know, it's often said that the 8350 only has 4 actual cores. As far as I'm concerned, though, it's an 8-core. What do you think?