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I bought a 2 year old NZXT Kraken X63 for under $50. My main problem is that I can't control the bottom fan. In the NZXT CAM, it doesn't even adjust the top fan, they don't spin the way they are set there. In BIOS and Fan Control I can control the top fan, cannot the bottom fan. I have no idea how to fix it, the two fans on the motherboard are wired there: 2. Is it normal with this cooler and a Ryzen 5 5600x to be above 30 degrees at idle and above 60 degrees after booting ? Even PBO2 is enabled at -19. Otherwise I have a Corsair 220T RGB case. During installation a screw broke, could this be a problem ? (so 3 screws hold it) 3. This is not very AIO related but is it normal to boost to 4.6 GHz at idle ? (Not all the time but 60% of the time) Thanks if you can help with any of these!

So my PC has an I5-13600k, cooled by an MSI MAG CORELIQUID C280 AIO. The Raditator is placed on the roof of the case, with the tubes towards the front. When i first built this PC, i was having cooling issues but this was quickly resolved by undervolting the CPU, which was easy as i have an MSI motherboard so i just changed the lite load from mode 9 (the default) to mode 5. Doing this, it no longer thermal throttled, even during long cinebench runs (the highest i got was like 88c or something). At the time i didnt think much of it, because after doing research online, it seems these CPUs basically cooked themselves out of the box without undervolting. The last time i checked my temps, it was probably a few months ago, via HWINFO. They were fine at the time. idling around 40C or so. Only ever getting up to the high 80s while under a high load. However, just yesterday i noticed that the fans on the PC were being rather loud even when idle, and so i opened up HWINFO and to my horror, my PC was thermal throttling even when idle just on the desktop! Temps were fine just a few months ago and nothing could have really changed to create such a gigantic increase! Not long after that, i restarted my PC, updating windows in the process. This is where i gets a bit muddled because, after updating windows, Temps were still HIGH but not overbearing. It was idling at around 60-65. Still a good amount more than i'd expect, but not necissarily bad. It still seems to be similar to that, as right now its currently idling at 56 just with me typing this out, and nothing else really going on that could tax the PC. I say its muddled because i doesn't make me certain its a hardware issue.... However, today ive found that even while playing basic games, or even watching a video, temps will shoot up, and thermal throttle. I have taken some steps. Namely i hopped back in to the BIOS and moved the lite load down one mode, or in other words, undervolted it more. I also adjusted the fan curve to be more aggressive. However this doesn't seem to have helped. At this time, i also noticed what sounds like....almost like a clicking sound, coming from the PC? Presumably, from the pump that is inside the rad. I did touch the tubes and it does seem to be pumping just fine however, one is hot and one is cold so its not like the pump has failed.... The sound itself isnt overly loud, and i did hear something similar before but it was very quiet and presumably just the pump going about its work. The clicking isn't constant, maybe only one every dozen or more seconds, and is infrequent. Or in short bursts of clicks. In fact, right now i can't hear it. As an added precaution, i did a basic dusting of the PC, removing dust from the filters etc. My next step was going to be to re-paste the CPU but....i really dont want to do that, as it was a gigantic pain in the ass getting the AIO block on to the CPU in the first place, without smearing the paste everywhere (First time using an AIO over air cooling, built this PC back in late 2022, so its not like the pump is very old either, neither is the thermal paste). (Also, i heard that these cpus can buckle over time so i didn't really want to remove it for fear of not being able to getting it back on) So before i do that...i Just wanted to post on here and maybe get some input, see if there is anything i've missed or other steps i might be able to take? Thanks in advance!

As described in the title, I'm running a Ryzen 5 3600 in NZXT's H1 case with the built-in 140mm AIO and PSU (detailed specs below). This has been a long-running issue, but has slowly gotten worse over time. My CPU temp stays locked at 75C+ while at idle. While running a game--for example Destiny 2 @ medium settings--it's pegged at 96C and won't cool down. Have tried a couple of different solutions (listed below) but with no success. This is my first PC I built myself, and although I'm pretty technical, I'm struggling to figure out what I could try next for solutions. Any help/suggestions are appreciated! I've attached a screencap of HWMonitor, programs currently open are Discord, Chrome, and HWMonitor. Specs: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 AMD Radeon RX 5500XT ASRock B450 Gaming-ITX/ac 16GB DDR4 RAM NZXT H1 Case + 140mm AIO + 750W PSU Windows 10 v22H2, build 19045.3930 1920x1200 display Can provide additional details if necessary Attempted solutions: Adjusting fan curve Cleaning dust filters Removing top/sides of case Unscrewing AIO+Fan and letting run outside case Tightening screws on CPU block Replacing thermal paste on CPU Updating drivers Additional Details: Unsure if these details are related, but here they are just in case. 1. I get a lot of instability, PC crashes/BSODs somewhat frequently (once every couple weeks or so). Many times, I will need to reinstall my graphics drivers for some reason, not sure why. Again, could be unrelated. 2. Was subject to a lot of power cuts ~1 year ago, over the summer running a portable AC on the same circuit would trip the breaker in the apartment, causing immediate shutdown.

Just wondering if I can get away with distilled water or if I will need a specific coolant For context, it’s a sff build,(alphacool eisbear and alphacool nexxxos st20 hpe, which should be a full copper rad and the eisbear is a copper cold plate) will I be ok with distilled water and will I need biocide or can I go without, if distilled water won’t work what coolant can y’all recommend.

TL;DR Asus Armory Crate doesn't recognize my Ryujin III AIO and because of that I can't customize the screen and set it to turn of with my PC I like my equipment to look as good as it works and I built my PC for gaming/streaming and animation. I recently had the chance to upgrade my stock intel cooler to ROG Ryujin III 240mm ARGB AIO so i did. everything works great except I cant customize the screen and my case fans don't spin until I'm in windows here is the full spec of my PC CPU: intel core i5 12th gen 12400f RAM: 32GB (8GBx4) Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 3200Mhz GPU: GIGABYTE Vision OC RTX 3070 8GB Motherboard: ROG STRIX B660-A GAMING WIFI D4 Case Fan controller: CORSAIR iCUE COMMANDER CORE XT Case: Corsair 275R Airflow thank you for your help

What is the difference between DeepCool LE500, LE520, LS520 and LS520 SE

Hi there! I've been running an Auraflow 240 evo aio for almost a year now. It always made a rattle noise ,but whenever i was playing a damanding game (the rpm increased), the rattle would stop. My radiator is placed at the top of the case. Is it dangerous for my aio and cpu to continue using it like this? What causes the noise and how can i fix it? Thank you in advance!

I have a hardline water cooled setup I just built my first time so sorry if this is a dumb question XD5 RGB paired with Thermaltake Pacific W6 for the Threadripper. I can’t seem to figure out what plugs into my CPU fan header at the top of my motherboard

I'm hoping to eventually upgrade my CPU cooler from a Noctua NH-U12S to a 240mm NZXT Kraken AIO cooler. I'm hoping to replace the fans with the F120 RGB fans eventually as I do prefer the looks. I have the Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro SL 16 GB (2x 8gb) ram sticks and I measured about 50mm of clearance. I did look at the thickness of the cooler with fans and it did come out a bit thicker but was wondering if anyone else tried this and if there still might be a way to make this work.

Hey, everybody! Can you tell me if the cooling of this processor can handle Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE or Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE? Or would even the simplest AiO be better than air? My case Deepcool CC560 V2 ATX. p.s. I was scared here that air cooling might not do the job. Thx for suggestion!

Hi everyone, just wanted to know what pump rpm is good for an AIO bc my new Lian Li GA II sl-inf makes a lot of noise the only reasonable amount is the minimum 2200 rpm set on L-connect. PWM mode is good if im gaming but when im idling i dont want to have a nuclear reactor next to me (exagerating its like 40-50dB ~2800rpm), I didn't see a lot of complaints online and it didn't do that noise the first week so it might have a problem but i already RMAd my psu for coil whine and i dont want to do that process again...

Hi all, After 3+ years using my Arctic Liquid Freezer II, suddenly, I have noticed some air bubbles in the pump of the unit - producing a very loud and unmistakeable gurgling noise, typical of the same. I tilted my case and, eventually, the bubble noises went away. Nonetheless I bought a new AIO (same make/model), can't risk to have anything broken, especially a potential water leak. After installing the new AIO, have been running stress --cpu 32 (on Linux) on my 5950x for 40+ minutes and the temps have been stable at 67C. The radiator is (and has been) mounted horizontally on the top of the case, and the CPU pump is way below it, hence I can't quite understand how air bubbles formed/reached the pump if the case hasn't been substantially moved for years (apart slightly moving for cleaning the floor). Also, the pump fan on my motherboard has been set to 'max speed' since ever, no changes there. What could have been the reason for air entering the closed loop and getting to the pump after 3+ years of sustained use (10+ hours/day average)? I haven't had air in the pump since day one, and now all of sudden I had loads of it (the gurgling noise was really loud)? Got really scared and decided to replace it, even if I was able to have the air move 'up' in the radiator. Thanks!

I've moved over to desktop from an Asus gaming laptop. This would be my first desktop build in years. I wanted to find out. Is it okay to have the inlet and outlet of the pump facing up? Radiator is higher than the loop but is it more efficient to have the pump tubes down? This is the build

Hey guys. I'm planning my next build and want to use Phanteks D30 fans as case fans and radiator fans. However I'm not a fan of the Phanteks Glacier One D30 pump block so I thought I'm gonna use a Deepcool AIO with D30 fans instead. But I was thinking how I would have to connect that whole thing afterwards. Correct me but is this correct: Pump power to CPU FAN 2/PUMP Pump RGB to motherboard (yes i would like to control that via motherboard) Fans power to CPU FAN 1 Fans RGB to RGB controller or daisy chain link Would that work?

i had overheating problems early(ish) 2023 until i upgraded some parts (cpu, aio, mobo) and it was all solved, until recently, my cpu(r9 5900x) started to have overheating problems, where i turn the pc on and it is on 90c and rises to 110 where it crashes in a minute or two. i can feel the vibrations in the pump but cannot feel air coming from the top of the radiator, i cleaned the radiator with compressed air and reapplied thermal paste but i am still having the problem, should i just buy a new cooler or is there an easier fix?

Hi guys Some time ago, I bought 7950x with AIO Liquid Freezer II 420 https://www.arctic.de/en/Liquid-Freezer-II-420/ACFRE00092A At that time I thought this is adequate cooling solution, but for some time I have feeling that something isn't right. My idle temp is around 47 degrees celsius, and it isn't problem to reach 95 degrees under full workload. Is this normal ? I know that 7950x is reeeeally power hungry, that is why I opted for the strongest(?) AIO available for me. Also please note , that 47 degrees is after steps below. Troubleshooting/Steps I took: I used moderate ammount of Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut paste and I am 100% sure that I mounted the AIO correctly ( there is an offset for AM5 platform- check the AIO webpage). I also used Curve optimizer in PBO with negative 20 value per all cores. I still have feeling that these temps are too high especially idle, is this normal ? Please help, does someone has the experience with this ? My full HW specs: Computer Type: Desktop GPU:7900XTX 24GB CPU: RYZEN 9 7950X Motherboard: Asus PRIME X670-P-CSM BIOS Version: BIOS 1808 RAM: 64GB DDR5-6000MHz ADATA CL30 LANCER RGB, 2x32GB AX5U6000C3032G-DCLARBK PSU: Corsair HX1200i Case: Be quiet dark base 900 pro Operating System & Version: WINDOWS 11 PRO 22H2 GPU Drivers: Newest AMD Adrenalite drivers ( 23.12.1) Chipset Drivers: Newest AMD chipset drivers Thank you for your answers!

Hello there, i "recently" build myself a pc. Now i am facing the Question if i should change my 360mm AIO which is mounted in the fron to a 240mm or 280mm AIO which would be mounted on top. I have an Intel I7-13700KF, an RTX4070 TI and a Corsair 4000d as a case. The reason why i am thinking about changing it is because i heard you can get better graphics card temps and not have such high cpu temps even after the change... Do you guys have any rekommandation or even experience when it comes down to something like that? Thanks in advanced Herbs

Finally pieced together what I think is my final build for a 4080 super. I'd love your thoughts on the build and if I should change anything. I listed the full parts list on pcpartpicker, my use case for the build, and rational behind each choice below. Monitor: Triple monitor setup comprised of one of the new 1440p 360hz glossy gen3 QD-oled's that just released (specifically this one here) and two run of the mill 1080p monitors. Yes I know this build will be able to game at 4k no problem, but the main reason I am going the 1440p 360hz route is I want the greatest competitive edge against my opponents and the ability to truly utilize the 360hz. Also, going the 1440p route will "future proof" me longer as this build will have a harder time running 4k titles in 3 years than those same titles at 1440p. Full List (excluding monitor): https://pcpartpicker.com/list/kPL334 Use Case: Mainly gaming with the ability to stream and video edit effectively if needed. CPU ($399): AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor Best gaming performance & well priced. CPU Cooler ($122): NZXT Kraken 240 78.02 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler The 7800X3D can be air cooled just fine, but the main reason I went AIO was for optimal case air flow. Air coolers are bulky and will take up space / impede air flow (within the case). I'll be mounting the AIO to the top of the case in a exhaust format. Since the case I chose pulls fresh air from the bottom, I feel having exhaust at the top is ideal since heat rises. There are definitely 240 AIO's that are cheaper than the NZXT Kraken, but going the "cheaper" route with a part that could leak and ruin my PC doesn't sit well with me. If anyone has a recommendation for a more cost effective 240 AIO, I'd love to know. The LCD screens are cool, but not a priority. Case ($139): Montech KING 95 PRO ATX Mid Tower Case Good price and comes with six fans. One Case Fan Extra ($19): NZXT F120P 78.02 CFM 120 mm Fan Hoping to be able to put an extra exhaust fan at the top next to the AIO radiator. Unsure if it will fit though. This fan also matches the AIO fans. Motherboard ($220): Gigabyte B650 AORUS ELITE AX ATX AM5 Motherboard Solid VRM's and PCIE 5.0. Should allow me to plug better parts in the future without having to upgrade. Did I splurge here? Or is it worth the cost? Memory ($103): TEAMGROUP T-Create Expert 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Cheapest DDR5 32GB 6000 CL30 ram from G.Skill or Teamgroup I could find. I wanted to go with 64 GB originally, but I feel like 32GB should be more than enough. The main reason I wanted 64GB is my current build struggles a ton when I game and have a few browser tabs open and am on discord. Is it worth going 64GB so I never have to worry about this ever again or am I already there with 32GB? Storage ($114): TEAMGROUP MP44 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive (7400 read, 7000 write) I was thinking of going PCIE 5.0, but its too expensive and the performance isn't all that better (for gaming at least). There are two cheaper options I'm thinking of going with (see here and here). They have slower read and write speeds, but I could save 20 to 30 dollars. Not sure if a few hundred more read and write is worth 30 dollars. Power Supply ($150): Montech TITAN GOLD 1000W 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply I took the power draw of the system and multiplied by 1.5 to get the minimum PSU wattage of 911, then I rounded up to 1k to leave room for some overclocking. This PSU is Tier A, ATX 3.0 on PSU Cultist Tier List.

im having issues setting the aio pump and fans to a certain curve i try l connect 3 and nothing very weird

Last week I upgraded my CPU, motherboard, and cooler to the 5800X3D, Asus Tuf B550+wifi 2, and LianLi alc360. And I'm noticing that the CPU has very short spikes in temp while on my desktop. Is this behavior normal because I don't remember my 5600x spiking in temp for a split second and then ramping back down? The motherboard bios are the most recent (3405). When nothing is happening the package temp is 41c but the spikes go to 70c. Could it just be the lighting software or Chrome running at startup that is causing this?

So I’m planning on building a pc, but I’m curious if the H150i Elite Capellix xt (360mm) can cool a 13900k. If not what other coolers do you recommend? Thanks!

Hey so from my previous forum I’ve got an advice to upgrade my arctic lf2 240 aio to a better aio due to the heavy loads on my cpu while rendering. So I just wanted to see if any of you have some suggestions of which aio I should upgrade to instead? I have my eyes on Lian Li Galahad II Trinity Performance 360,deepcool lt720, ekwb nucleus 360. Also I use the 4000d case

Just began building my PC yesterday and eventually came across the issue of my NZXT Kraken Elite 360mm not operating as it should be. The three RGB fans are not spinning yet they are connected to SATA power from my PSU. This specific Radiator comes with an RGB controller with which the fans are connected to and plugged into a USB 2.0 Y connector that is also used by the Pump to share a single USB 2.0 header on the bottom of my Asus Maximus Z790 Hero motherboard. The RGB for the fans DOES WORK. However they don’t spin on startup when receiving power like most videos and guides show. The LCD Display has never once turned on despite switching around the SATA connector and 3-pin pump connector to either AIO_PUMP or CPU_FAN. (The manual for the AIO said either could be used, but I’d just have to fix the CPU fan speed error in the bios.) One of my troubleshooting methods was to connect the three Cooler fans into a different fan splitter that was being used by my case’s three front-panel fans. Which allowed them to actually work. This helped me narrow it down to the connection being the issue. Not the fans themselves. Im assuming my LCD has a dead backlight, and my breakout cable is defective. Since this cable specifically has my three fans, the pump connector, SATA for power and the USB 2.0 connector for the motherboard all in one place.

Hey everyone, I hope all is well. I am upgrading my CPU and Mobo to the i5 12600K and MSI MAG B760 Tomahawk D4. This will be paired with the GTX 1070 (which will be upgraded in the future), 16GB DDR4 3600Mhz RAM and a 750W power supply. I will also need to purchase a new CPU cooler as my current one won't fit (PCPARTPICKER said so). I have three questions - should I get a liquid or air cooler for this rig, and which one? And lastly, does anyone see any issues I need to consider before purchasing the new CPU and motherboard? Cheers! Thanks a lot

So my friend build a PC for doing Astro photography and he has a ryzen 9 5950X. When the CPU is at idle the processor sits around 45 - 70 C and fluctuates a good bit. I’m not used to this and don’t think this is normal operation. He has a NZXT AIO with a large rad and two 240mm fans. This setup should idle around 35 if my instincts are correct. What could be the issue here?