Search the Community

Hello one and all! Hope you are doing well. Recently purchased a RX 580 8 GB to install in my others computer which had a 1050 TI prior that ran fine, upon installation it has failed to provide any output what so ever. I have tried reseating it 5 or so times, along the power connectors certainly are inserted correctly. I DDU'd the computer before inserting the card, it fails to appear in "devices" what so ever, and I have toggled "show hidden devices" as well. Now the GPU certainly is not dead, I know this because the fans are spinning normally and I actually tossed in my main rig to confirm it wasn't the issue. I have flashed the BIOS to the most recent edition, tried to install radeon graphics but naturally it suggests to me that I do not have a graphics card installed. I only have 1 PCIE slot so I can't test it on another on the board. Heres where I am at: I think its either the PSU or the Mobo. I had this issue in the past when trying to install a 960 (never figured it out, exact same problem actually, got a 1050 TI because I couldn't deal with it anymore) But heres the thing, I hooked the PC up beside my main PC and corded over the PCIE power cables from my 1000 Watt PSU and the problem persisted, ( I don't know if this actually a valid way of testing whether or not it could be a power delivery issue...) So at this point im kind of leaning towards some issue with the MOBO. I have a 450 Bronze EVGA PSU (from my understanding more than fine for the RX 580, albeit suggested of 500 watts, and im running an I3 7100 which is quite a low TDP so im honestly stuck between a rock and a hard place. If I recall correctly, when I tried to correct the same problem with the 960 in the past I actually swapped PSU's much to my pain and suffering but ended with the same result. Desperate for any help, I think I honestly need to get a new MOBO.... Thank you so much for your input and help <3

Hello there, I have encountered a problem, that my new 3200Mhz RAM operates only by 2666MHz even though CPU supports such speeds. Also, I could not undervolt CPU for better battery life. The solution was to access advanced menu in my laptop and change the speed. However, it was not easy due to locked menu, so I decided to make a tutorial for other people, who may have the same problem. My laptop exact model is: HP 15-dw2373ng Series names: HP 15-dw2000HP 15-dw2xxx To unlock the advanced menu there are a few ways for HP computers, but for this model it should be: Pressing repeatedly F10 When "BIOS setup option" shows, immediately press A However, if you have newer BIOS, this option will be disabled. So there are two solutions: Reverting back to old BIOS (downgrading) and hoping that the option will be enabled by default. Modifying current BIOS to enable Advanced menu. I chose to try the first options, because it is easier. First you need to download first version of bios (or as early as possible) from manufacturer webpage (in this case - HP). There can be few or a single BIOS download option, so you need press "See full details" and the there will be BIOS history, where you can download oldest BIOS. Extract .ROM bios file from .exe. This can be done easily by opening the file and going through the menu and in the last step pressing "copy", this should create decrypted BIOS file in selected directory. Buy "ch341a" programmer with a SOIC8 (SOP8) clamp. Do this mod, to make programmer use correct data voltage:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HwnzzF645hA&ab_channel=AdamantIT Download drivers on separate computer (I used SnappyDriverInstaller) and download NeoProgrammer (or AsProgrammer). I used NeoProgrammer because only it supported my BIOS chip XMC XM25QH128A (other names: qh128ahig qh128ah1g ). Disassemble laptop enough, so you could find BIOS chip. Write down a model number. Connect SOP8 clamp and programmer together. Red cable should be in the same direction as leaver and pins in 25xx IC slot (there should be a diagram). Disconnect power from laptop and remove main battery (CMOS battery can be also removed, but it's optional, my laptop didn't have CMOS battery). Connect clamp to IC. Make sure that clamp contacts touch appropriate pins and the red cable should face white dot (mark) on a chip. Instructions for NeoProgrammer (for AsProgrammer there are other tutorials online): 10. Press "Detect IC" and select appropriate BIOS chip (naming may not be exact on the chip, but you can always check datasheet). 11. Press "Read IC" and save dump file in location you want. I created two dump files, in case one has corrupted read. Also check if it is not all F values, because if so, something got wrong and you need to check connections. 12. Press "Off-protect" on an arrow near "Write IC" 13. Press "Erase IC" and then follow by "Blank Check", everything should be in success. 14. Open .bin bios file you extracted earlier from .exe and press "Write IC". 15. Done. You can also read again file and compare Bytes with flashed bios files (HxD program), but it is optional. 16. Turn on PC and wait to initialize BIOS. It should boot normally. After next boot, try to enter bios with F10 + A as mentioned earlier and there should be additional advanced menu. 17. Congrats! You can now change RAM speeds, undervolt CPU or do anything else. If it doesn't show, you will need to modify your BIOS for which I do not how, because easier solution worked for me : ) Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage you do to your device. Think before doing anything. Advanced BIOS locked for a reason, you should know what are you doing. Downgrading BIOS may introduce bugs or unsupported features. Also, disable BitLocker or save a recovery file before doing anything (if you have it enabled). This method also Unlocks Manufacturer Programming Mode ( MPM ), so if you may need to lock it again. To do that, there are other tutorials on youtube. Yes, I tried to downgrade BIOS in software. It was a nightmare, basically you need two signature files .s12 and .sig, but manufacturer only provided either of one. It was not successful and clamp method worked great! If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask. If old BIOS was removed for this model, you can ask me for it. Download links: My laptop HP bios: https://support.hp.com/us-en/drivers/selfservice/swdetails/hp-15-dw2000-laptop-pc-series/32612069/model/38348942/swItemId/ob-280552-1?sku=20F46EA HxD: https://mh-nexus.de/en/hxd/ SnappyDriverINstaller: https://sdi-tool.org/ AsProgrammer: https://github.com/nofeletru/UsbAsp-flash/releases NeoPogrammer: https://download1400.mediafire.com/59n79esmrneg/iczru5dytijx6bf/Ch341a+Programmer+V2.2.0.10.zip

I have a funny problem I could say: I stumbled across a page that said how I could access advanced bios settings on my Acer Nitro 7 and it really did work (the trick involving f4 4 r f v f5 5 t g b f6 6 y h n). I did some minor change (to pl3) and had no problem but after that I couldn't get back into the advanced tab no matter what I did. It will simply not show up. I have since tried many other methods but it was just a waste of time. Reverted BIOS defaults and even upgraded to a newer version(1.09). How do I get that advanced tab to show up again?(rev 5.0)

Specs: Mainboard: Gigabyte Aorus Elite x570 (no debug LED or anything similar) CPU: ryzen 5 2600 Ram: Crucial Ballistix weiß DIMM Kit 16GB, DDR4-3200, GPU 1070Nvidia PSU: be quiet! STRAIGHT POWER11 CM 1000W So first of all I have a system that just doesnt want to post. First I thought it is the fault of the GPU but I used it on another Pc and it worked completely fine. Then I used the CPU on the other system and that too worked completely fine. I used the Ram sticks of the functioning System and build it in this one and it still wouldnt post. I thought that maybe the Bios was being a B*tch so I Qflashed the system with various versions. Still no difference noticable. Now I came to the end that either the PSU or the Mainboard has to be defect. But I think the Mainboard is more likely to be broken because It acts weird. What i mean by that is that I can turn on the whole system on with the Powerswitch on the Mainboard but no matter what I do it just doesnt turn off. I use the same Powerswitch to turn it on but it doesnt work for turning it off.(It also didnt work in the beginning) So my question in the end is should I buy a new Mainboard or do you guys have any other ideas to fix it. PS: Is not my first build and I checked all the cables going to the PSU multiple times.

Hello, good night. Im building a Simple office pc with an Athlon 200GE 4Gb DDR4 Ram Biostar A320MH The problem is, that all the pc components are working properly, with the exception of the psu, which is a Delta DPS-300AB-9, a 300w With active PFC PSU The motherboard works with another psu, and the psu works with another motherboard, but both don't work together What could be the problem? (if i let the psu plugged into the motherboard and turn it on, even though nothing spins, the chipset starts getting warm after some time, is this a good thing?) (Edit 1) More details, with the old psu, it works fine. so the motherboard and all other components are good, as for the psu, it also works fine when connected with another motherboard, tested all rails, and all are bringing the voltage that they were suposed to (Edit 2) The chipset got warm only once, then, i couldn't do it again with the new psu, using the old one everything works fine. I've made sure the new psu is 100% ok, measured every single line, and all voltages are correct. the motherboard is also working perfectly (Edit 3) When i short the two power pins on the motherboard, the psu just doesn't start even though, neither the psu, or the motherboard are with problems.

Buy Microsoft Surface Book on Amazon: http://geni.us/oZIeqRG A few weeks back we got to check out some pretty incredible stuff at the Microsoft campus in Redmond...

how set up manually at 1440 x 900 @75hz resolution cant find there (and the only web i found for help people problem) http://tinyvga.com/vga-timing/1440x900@60Hz and when i change to @75hz manually without changes from 60hz it looks like shit can someone help me?

Alright, I know this sounds kind of crazy, but hear me out: My grandparents have had an RV since I was very young, and one of the things that always fascinated me about their setup was how the satellite TV would continue working while in-motion. Recently, my parents have also purchased an RV, and have come to me for advice on tricking it out with TV and with internet. Obviously, I recommended the in-motion satellite for TV (linked below), but I have been unable to find a similar solution for the internet. There are plenty of satellite internet providers (ex. HughesNet and Viasat), but for whatever reason I have been unable to find a dish compatible with ANY of them that is also capable of operating while in motion. So, I was wondering if there is any way to configure and/or mod one of the aforementioned in-motion Winegard receivers (linked below) to connect to networks that aren't officially supported. Based upon my research, the dishes can be switched between DIRECTV, DISH, and Bell TV using an array of eight dip switches located under the dome (video linked below). However, the manual on Winegard's website (also linked below) provides absolutely no information regarding the internal function of these switches, and instead simply lists the necessary configurations for the supported platforms. The provided switch configurations do not, however, have any meaningful relation to each other, and thus likely have some greater relevance to the function of the dish. That's all I have so far. So, my questions for you all: 1 - What, if anything, is the meaning of the values on the dip switch array? 2 - Can the dish linked below, in its stock form, be used to connect to HughesNet and/or Viasat? (If not, would it be possible to modify it to be able to do so?) 3 - What hardware, aside from the traditional modem/router/AP would be necessary to make a setup like this, in-motion or otherwise, function? They'll want to rent as little hardware as possible from the ISP. Any and all feedback/advice for the project as a whole is more than welcome in the comments. Links: Winegard RoadTrip T4 In-Motion RV Satellite Antenna - http://www.winegard.com/roadtrip Video Tutorial for DirectTV to Dish Network Conversion: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kPtuwrFW06M Manual for In-Motion Satellite: http://www.winegard.com/help/images/c/cd/2452356.pdf

So, the setup is a radio station computer. The original idea was to have two computers setup (one being the main output and the other being the streaming computer). What ended up happening was an issue with getting a second computer setup and we are left with the current situation that has worked for two years without major issues. The main computer has been gifted with running both output and streaming. The main computer has an interesting setup, but again, has worked for the past 2 years. During a routine fix during a migration, all we needed to do was to fix USB Audio which just needed the computer to restart after switching them from USB 3.0 to USB 2.0. Before the restart of the program, all audio settings where working. After we switched the USB 3.0 to USB 2.0, we did a restart and haven't had a working audio input since. So, here is what we are currently working with. - System Summary - OS Name: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro Version: 10.0.17134 System Manufacture: ASUS System Type: x64-based PC Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-6800K CPU @ 3.40Ghz, 3401 Mhz, 6 Core(s), 12 Logical Processor(s) BIOS Version/Date: American Megatrends Inc. 1401, 11/9/2016 BIOS Mode: UEFI Installed Physical Memory (RAM): 32.0 GB Total Physical Memory: 31.9 GB Total Available Memory: 28.9 GB Total Virtual Memory: 36.7 GB Available Virtual Memory: 32.2 GB Page File Space: 4.75 GB - Components / Sound Device - [1]: Name: ASUS Xonar DSX Audio Device Manufacturer: ASUSTek Status: OK Driver: 0.0.8.1823, 7/20/2017 4:46 AM [2]: Name: Realtek High Definition Audio Manufacturer: Realtek Status: OK Driver: 6.0.1.7727, 7/20/2017 4:31 AM [3 & 4]: are NVIDIA (monitor) which are not used by the streaming software. [5]: is Virtual Audio Cable which I used to test; driver instillation time @ 4/11/2019 8:52PM ---------------------------- The issue I'm having is I am unable to set any program to use the Line In from the on-board Card (ASUS Xonar DSX). I have tried to use the on-board card, but have the same issue. I get errors like: The only thing I can think of, is the card died. It still shows up in the system, so I'm unsure. Any help would be appreciated.

How do I access it. I need to access advanced options because I want to increase vram. And see other options there. I have lenovo G-50 model 80G0

So, I reduced the LLC with my asus maximus vii hero and i7 4790k to level 2 in order to reduce temps. I'm not noticing any vdroop. The voltages aren't dropping under load and I'm maintaining my CPU frequency no problem. Am I losing anything else by having a low LLC setting? Will I maybe only notice vdroop under a light load instead of a heavy one? I'd like to understand this better if anyone has any info. Turning it down low makes a substantial difference in temps so unless there's some reason I should keep it on auto, I'm going to keep it this way.

Hi, does anyone know what's the difference between ASUS' STRIX lineup's differences? We have available: The Standard STRIX STRIX Advanced Gaming OC Edition Also which one should I choose? There's 50 euro difference between the standard STRIX and OC Edition.

Hello, I have a HUGE problem. I don't have any ideas what to code. Now I don't orders from customers so I don't have nothing to do. I can use PHP, HTML, CSS, JS (AJAX&jQuery), Java, SQL, Python, C++, C#, VB, Bash, Batch, Pascal (Just Hello World :D) and little bit XML. Thanks - Masa

Hey guys, So I recently purchased Advanced System Care 9 Pro for $19.99 (1 year) and I am now considering getting a refund after seeing reviews from third party websites. The reviewers said this program actually did more harm than good when using this program. So should I go on with getting my money back? Or is the program helpful and should keep it?

yeah, like, texture resolution, shadows, antialising, etc.

Just between these two cases and assuming the prices are the same which one would you get? edit: Oh wait, I forgot about the 690 III. Should still be quite similar though.

best gba sp emulator for android. go! and best place to get pokemon roms my bad, im sure this has been posted before....

Hey guys, just to start with: I've been a linux users for years, so I'm not new to linux What Linux distribution can you recommend? I stuck with OpenSuse for quite some time now and I really appreciate the YaST. It would be nice if you could even include the "ideology" behind the distribution, for Fedora e.g. free software only etc. DO NOT recommend any of the well known distributions like Debian, Ubuntu, and so on. Really looking forward to your suggestions

Hello! I do not know if this is the right topic to ask. But I would like to get new ideas and I would like opinions on my ideas about mod my Coolermaster Scout 2 Advanced case. I'll start the build log here when all the plans are clear and I'm holidays from army. Current ideas are: - Top and front Mnpctech Overkill "240" Nautilus Fan - Behind MB some acrylic sheet / wire penetrations - Detach 5,25 slots - Detach HDD tray - Interior and exterior painting - Acrylic sheet to cover up the rad / Metal plate to corners Like this ( Fast and good Microsoft Paint editing ): http://aijaa.com/TLwjNW - Penetrations for hoses at front acrylic sheet - Fan hole to acrylic sheet at front Water Cooling: - 240mm rad - CPU, GPU Blocks - Red tubing PSU: Single Sleeved cables / red/black What do you think about my idea? any suggestions? And I'm sorry if this is in the wrong area. And excuse me my bad english

Hi guys, I used to have a quite long startup process for F@H, because I always want to have the advanced control, not the web control. Getting there took starting the standard FAHClient via web control, closing the browser tab, right-clicking the small F@H icon in the taskbar, calling up the advanced control mode and maximizing it. Yesterday I was sick of it (I had some alcohol, I admit ). So I wrote a small batch file to do all the stuff for me. Here's the instructions and the code: 1. Move to your FAH install folder [...]\FAHClient and create a new text document using the editor. 2. Copy the following code, and fill in the location of your F@H: cd "[...]\FAHClient" start HideConsole.exe "[...]\FAHClient\FAHClient.exe" start /max FAHControl.exe Do not take away the quotations. Only replace the [...], and make sure that it has the same structure as the following example: "C:\\Program files\FAHClient". The double backslash after the drive name is essential! 3. Save the file as batch, eg. "FAH_for_real.bat". 4. This step is not necessary, but adds some beauty: Create a link on your desktop, and set the icon to be an F@H icon. You can find it in the F@H folder. Done. From now on, you can just double-click the link on the desktop and it will start your background F@H client as well as the maximized advanced control mode. Regards, Tataffe

Heydiho, i don't know which fans to pick for my upgrade. I want to get a Phanteks PH-TC12DC CPU cooler and replace the fans with something that fits a red/black color scheme. I am pretty much set on Enermax fans because of their awesome LED fans but i don't know which ones to pick: T.B Vegas Single red (hard to get in germany) or TB Apollish 12 cm red or Magma Advance 12 cm (they don't have LEDs but look at dem red blades!) I will probably get the Apollish, because they're the only ones where 140 mm versions exist, so i could match the rest of my case. But i just want to make sure that i get some great fans for that heatsink and that the Apollish are good quality in general. I will run them in push pull, so i hope static pressure won't be a problem? Note that my build is suposed to be silent so i will most likley run them on ultra silent mode, if possible. Along with those fans i think about replacing my case fans (Define R4, 140mm fans, 3 fans total) with more T.B. Apollish fans.