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TLDR; anyone know an AM4 motherboard with dual HDMI out or (less ideally) a 1440p 60Hz DisplayPort to HDMI adapter? Building my dad a PC and want minimal points of failure cause I hate being tech support so going 5600G (onboard graphics) with dual 1440p 60 Hz HDMI monitors he already has, only problem is that the adapters for DisplayPort/HDMI I have atm are 1080p... The video outs he has now are one HDMI and one DisplayPort so one is on the 'blurry' 1080p adapter so I wanted a motherboard with dual HDMI output but can't find any.... other alternative is to use a 1440p 60hz compatible DisplayPort -> HDMI adapter note - I'm not building the whole pc to solve this one problem, he needs a new one anyway Budget (including currency): cheapest possible Country: UK Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: N/A Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): 5600G,
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- motherboard
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Hello My dad gave me his old apple monitor, because the computer does’t work anymore, but the monitor does. It has the apple mini display port and I bought an adapter to USB-C, so that I could connect my Apple MacBook Pro with it. It all worked well now I bought a windows PC which my boyfriend built for me. I don’t want to buy a new monitor since I already have the Apple one (and I’m honest - it fits my home aesthetic) So I was hoping I could connect my monitor to the PC! I bought an apple mini display port adapter to connect to my PC - but it didn’t work… Does anybody have a solution or is apple going to make me buy a new monitor? Here are some photos of the Monitor (I know the cable is broken get of my back)
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Hi. I have rx570 Saphire edition with 2 HDMI ports. I also have 2 monitors with only VGA ports. When I connect each monitor individually via HDMI to VGA adapter they work fine, but not together. Simultaneous connection results in both showing bios loading, then Windows starting and after few seconds both lose signal. If I plug in one monitor using the abovementioned adapter as usual and another screen using HDMI port without any adapter, they also work great. I assume problem lies in using 2 HMDI to VGA adapters at the same time. Drivers are up to date. Monitors are Samsung and ViewSonic. Windows display settings are set correctly, since they work fine with 2 monitors if only one of them uses adapter. Has anyone had similar issue? What can be the solution?
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Hi Very specific problem here. TL;DR: will DP to HDMI to composite/RCA work? From PC to CRT tv. I often play emulators on PC but display them on an old CRT TV. The TV has the composite red yellow white cables which go to an adapter that adapts the CRT signal to HDMI. Now I have a different videocard which doesn't have an extra HDMI port so the question is if a passive Displayport to HDMI adapter would work in this case. Based on my limited knowledge and what is displayed on the product pages this should work, but Im not sure so I ask you guys. Any help is appreciated. This is the link to the DP HDMI adapter https://www.bol.com/nl/nl/p/staza-displayport-naar-hdmi-adapter-kabel/9300000086148605/ This is a link to a similar composite to HDMI adapter : https://www.bol.com/nl/nl/p/tulp-naar-hdmi-adapter-av-composiet-rca-to-hdmi-audio-video-kabel-zwart/9200000094776467/?Referrer=ADVNLGOO002013-S--9200000094776467&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA1MCrBhAoEiwAC2d64WAjFhZbLIY49M1V3AlFyPlEVLMgwiB_VlMGPgpNbX4lwOTUxEIa1xoCx1sQAvD_BwE
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I want to replace the 2.5" HDD in my laptop with an M.2 NVMe SSD. I'm looking for a solution/product that would make plugging my SSD into a SATA 3.3 connector possible. I can't seem to find a suitable adapter. I found adapters that turn M.2 SATA into regular SATA. Also, I don't want to use it as external storage. Is this conversion even possible to do? If so, could you please help me?
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Hello! For my job, I have a laptop, and to be able to work from home, I received a docking station (Dell Dock WD19s). The docking station itself works very well, but I was wondering if it's possible to use the same docking station for my (gaming) desktop. Below are the specs: AMD Ryzen 7 3700x Asus ROG Strix X570-I Gigabyte RTX 3070 PSU Corsair SF600 (2018) I think I might need an adapter to make it possible, is that correct? I'm not sure exactly which one I need. I would greatly appreciate it if someone could provide me with tips in the right direction. I hope someone might be able to help me with this. Tobias Hoogers
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Have any of you seen an m.2 to pcie adapter that can accommodate a double sided heatsink? The m.2 ports on my motherboard are 8mm from the pcb to the top of the m.2 connector. They have plenty of clearance between the motherboard and ssd, which allows me to use a double sided heatsink. I believe they are either 6.7H or 8.5H as seen in this photo: I also own several m.2 to pcie adapters, but all of them use a much shorter m.2 connector. Most of them are 2.5mm tall. I have one that is 4mm tall, but is is for sata, not nvme. Background info: I recently purchased a Sabrent ssd (SB-RKT4P-2TB) and installed it into port M2_3 of my MSI EK Carbon X570S motherboard using the stock (single sided) heatsink. The drive would crash frequently (chkdsk would report it as RAW) but upon reboot, it usually reappeared just fine. (GPT partitions did not report any errors, Sabrent Rocket app tests would all pass). I purchased the Sabrent double sided heatsink (SB-HTSS) and the drive has been rock solid ever since. I really like that heatsink. I track the temperatures in Aquasuite, and that heatsink does a fantastic job keeping the temperatures stable and cool (43C). I would like to move this 2TB ssd to the PCI_E4 port of my motherboard so I can take full advantage of the 4.0 speeds. The chipset is 3.0 speeds, and the M2_1 port is already occupied with another 4.0 speed SSD. I bought the Sabrent m.2-PCIe adapter, but I was highly disappointed in it. What I would love to find is an adapter that can accommodate the Sabrent double sided heatsink, have you any of you run across an adapter that used one of these taller m.2 connectors?
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Dear people of brilliance! Preemptive apology: Not only am I practically tech illiterate, I'm probably too stupid to even own a PC. But I love games so here we are. Very grateful for any help! I got a (relatively) good deal on a Zotac AMP Extreme 4080 Airo. I'm planning on connecting it with my 750W Cooler Master MWE Gold (not V2). Vanilla, non-overclocked performance will probably be enough for me (monitor: 1440p ultrawide), so I've been told the recommended 750W should be okay. Question: What cables will I need to buy to make sure my old PSU can power my new graphics card? The high-end 4000 kidney-pawners famously come with an adapter, but I'm confused about which cables I need to connect to that adapter. I've seen a few in my market (Norway) aimed at the 4000 series, but many of them say "only for Corsair PSUs" or something to that effect. I just want to find a safe bet, and I don't care about looks. Incoming GPU EAN: 4895173626364 Current PSU EAN: 4719512069882
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- mwe
- cooler master
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Hi y'all... Sooo I got a new PC about 2 weeks ago, I picked parts like RTX 4060Ti (mainly cuz everyone was saying how bad the card is just to prove them all wrong which I did after I decimated 3060 and 3070 performance in Cyberpunk 2077 with RT Overdrive, Path Tracing and DLSS 3.5), i5 13400F, 32GB DDR4 3200MHz RAM and LG UltraGear 144 QHD monitor with HDR... Anyways my motherboard is Gigabyte H610M H which was enough but I have forgot to check on how many m.2 and PCIe slots it has... Soo it has one 16x PCIe slot for my GPU, one 1x PCIe slot unoccupied and one m.2 slot with my Samsung 980 PRO... The problem is that I have 3 m.2 drives just lying around unused with all my games on them and I am tired of connecting them via USB C every single time I want to play a game that is on that SSD, all SSD's are m.2 NVMe and I have 3 SATA slots unoccupied so I purchased a board that was supposed to connect that m.2 NVMe trough SATA but it doesnt work... So I went on google to check and I found out accordingly to the m.2 socket number that this particular socket is for NGFF drive but the seller on amazon said m.2 NVMe (NGFF) to SATA III adapter and there was no mention that it should not support NVMe, after a bit of digging I have found out the key difference between ancient NGFF and modern NVMe and now I have 3 junk m.2 to sata boards, 3 NVMe SSD's lying around and no way to connect them except using USB C which like I said, its annoying and few months ago one of my drive thanks to this got corrupted and I had to completely wipe it becasue having steam games there and disconnecting it (not while its updating or game running) is bad and breaks everything. I am kinda worried that there is no solution for me to convert m.2 NVMe to SATA the way I thought and I for sure dont want to spend 50 or 60 bucks on one board that might or might not work... The question is, what are my options now. I have 3 SATA slots free and PCIe 1x slot free... About the PCIe slot... I kinda wanted to use that slot for USB C expansion card to have more USB slots because the motherboard has 6 plus 3 on top of my case (yes I know its alot but having more fast USB slots is always better than having 3 USB 3.0 and 6 USB 2.0). So the another question is what if I buy a PCIe 1x to PCIe 16x riser (I looked it up and I found some online) and then I buy PCIe card with 3 or 4 m.2 slots on it, connect all my drives (all 3 drives separately, not all together in raid config or whatever to show up as one big 4.5TB drive). This idea could theoretically work I think... Sharing bandwidth YES but the fact that I will always use one of the drives at a time, they wont have OS installed on them and will purely serve as a drive for games that do not need high SSD speeds (for that I have the 980 PRO with windows on it which is 2TB and then 870 QVO for some large games that I would like to have loaded up faster like Fallout 4 with 500 mods). Is there any way for me to do it right to have all SSD's where I want them to be or is the only way to use USB C adapter with possibility to corrupt all my data again and lose it all?
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Sorry is this is the wrong place to post. I'm looking for a USB-C hub that can do USB-C video out. In total, I need: 1 x USB-C power in. 2 x UBS-C power/video/data in/out. 2 x USB-A Not looking to break the bank, but any option would be greatly appreciated. EDIT: I'm looking to run USB-C power (100W) to a hub/dock, the hub/dock to my ROG Ally, and then a USB-C cable from my Ally to the DP in on my Lenovo Tab Extreme. I know, I'm an idiot, lol.
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I've been thinking about building a NAS build and in my research I encountered this product: ICY DOCK 24 bay 2.5 inch hot swap to 3x 5.25 inch bay ($~800) This is intriguing; in the same space that I could fit five 3.5" hard drives with some products, this fits 24 2.5" drives, this is half a magnitude higher in density! Going a step further, any standard mid tower case with 9 5.25 inch bays could fit three of these, this makes the case capable of holding 72 2.5 inch drives! This is utter madness! (example case: Old Antec 900, though I'm sure newer ones exist.) Using the Samsung 870 QVO 8TB 2.5 inch model would grant roughly 576TB of storage, costing ~$25,200. ($349.99 on amazon) This is a huge amount of money, but it appears to be pretty fair for SSDs. But it's not done yet! 144 drives might be achievable by using 72 dual m.2 to 2.5 inch adapters like this one: StarTech.com S322M225R M.2 to SATA Adapter - Dual Slot this would allow for a petabyte to be stored. At present on PcPart Picker, the cheapest m.2 2280 8TB drive costs $759.00 a piece. This means that you could get a petabyte of storage inside of a mid-tower case for the mere cost of $109,296 in storage. A similar drive, the MP600 PRO NH states 10.9 Watts on its webpage, so the power budget would be 1,596.6 Watts, plus overhead from all other components. This is probably the hardest to accommodate part. Overall, the system would require: 24 SAS ports 2000 Watt PSU (guessing on overhead) 144 8TB M.2 drives Mid Tower Case A budget of $120,000 (rough estimate) To get: 1,152 TB of storage maximum. What do you think of this? It seems like it could work and with the power issue resolved it might be a really interesting video! Edit: I realized a much cheaper option exists here, this is not SAS which could make it pretty difficult to troubleshoot cable issues. Athena Power BP-15827SAC
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I have a dual display config, but my gfx card has only dvi, hdmi and dp, so I have to connect my older monitor through an adapter. It has 1280x1024 resolution, but every time I do system reset (shutdown works just fine), it drops to 1024x768. However, it can be fixed by unplugging and replugging the adapter in and out. I'm a little worried about whether these actions can damage hdmi port on my gfx card or not. Can this issue be resolved on software side?
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So! First post on LTT. Yay! I have an old HP Envy 23-d044 I'm fixing up for funsies (Core i7-3770S, 16GB DDR3 1600), and after watching Linus's $169 Gaming PC Video plus figuring that my HP's MXM slot is basically a PCIe (gen 2) slot, I went to AliExpress for this MXM-to-NVMe adapter plus this NVMe SSD. The gameplan? Make this old computer boot from NVMe via the adapted MXM card slot. I downloaded Clover and anxiously anticipated the moment of truth. But, that's where I started tripping up. For the love of God, I can't get Clover to boot my Windows 11 (or 10) installer disk! The BIOS is set to SecureBoot on with Legacy/CSM disabled; I've tried using both official Windows Media Creation Tool and Rufus to make the installer; I've tried a couple older versions of Clover; I've tried using both Rufus and cvad's BDU to create the Clover disk; I've even tried it on my main PC (MSI B550 Tomahawk, Ryzen 5 5600X, 16GB DDR4 3600) and it exhibits the same problem! Clover boots fine, and when I select my Windows installer USB, I get hung on a black screen. I've also noted that (on both machines) for my main Windows SATA SSD there appear to be two options in Clover: Microsoft EFI Boot from EFI and Windows from EFI, but only choosing the former actually boots the SSD successfully, whereas selecting the latter gets me the same hanging black screen. Again, this behavior exhibits on both my fixer-upper HP and my main PC. So, the only EFI Clover can successfully boot on either machine is the Windows Boot Manager, I guess? So I figure I've gotta be missing something super basic with Clover or my computers' boot settings, but I'm left scouring four-year-old forum threads and scratching my head.
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Today I bought the Apple Lightning to Digital AV HDMI Adapter (the original one for 700 SEK (70 USD)). It worked with my iPhone 12 Pro Max for the first hour, but when I disconnected it and later tried to re-connect it it wont detect it no matter what. I've tried...: Disconnecting and reconnecting the adapter multiple times. - DIDN'T WORK. Swap out the HDMI cable. - DIDN'T WORK. Connect it to multiple different monitors. - DIDN'T WORK Connect it to an iPhone 13 Pro and an iPhone XR. - WORKED! The lightning port on my iPhone 12 Pro Max is fine, it can receive power with no problem and output sound to headphones when using wired Lightning EarPods. There's nothing stuck inside the lightning port. I've tried disconnecting the iPhone 13 Pro and an iPhone XR multiple times but they seem to work every time (they're my mom's and dad's so I can't test them for multiple hours since they're not my phones). iPhone 12 Pro Max is running iOS 16.6, iPhone 13 Pro is also iOS 16.6 and the XR is running iOS 16.5.1.
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Welli have a bunch of good old spinning hdds and because i want to replace them with faster storage i looked for some options. at my region normal ssd 2tb and nvme 2tb almost cost the same. but because all if my slots are used (even sata - i am already using a pci 4x to 4 sata adapter i just want to know if there are any good and cheap sata to nvme adapter to buy in (austria/germany) online? i know using a nvme as sata is wasting speed but i only want to know if there are good options. thx in advance
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I got a used pc from my friend and when I plug my dvi cable it doesn’t show any display,since my monitor support vga i used a vga adapter (vga to hdmi) still not showing any display, just to make sure my mobo isn’t working i plugged my pc to my tv Screen and it worked now I’m confused what should I do?
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Hello, I have an Asus B85M-G and I wanted to improve computers storage and read/write speed. To do this I installed a Crucial Nvme ssd using a m.2 to PCIe x 1 adaptor. I used AOMEI to clone my OS to the new Nvme, but even though I see it in my file explorer I do not see it in my UEFI/bios as a bootable drive. Does anyone have good instructions on how to get my Nvme ssd to show up as a bootable drive? There are only a couple of instructions online, but they are not great and the info is not coming from reputable sources. Linus has talked about it in some videos 5-6 years ago, but at the time there wasn't a great solution. I hope he sees this and decides to make a video on how to properly set up a bootable Nvme ssd that's plugged into a PCIe Slot.
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Hi. Firstly, sorry if this has already been asked, but I could not find anything. I bought four adapters (on Shopee) which I still have to pay for, but I noticed that they have the four extra pins. Is there any point in opting for this model rather than the DVI-D adapter, which misses the four extra pins (also, the center one is narrower)? Do the four extra pins make it any more stable or something? Thanks in advance.
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So i have an incredably niche problem of having two working CRT TVs and for one i want a hdmi to analogue(RCA or SCART) converter on which I can adjust the picture size, beacuse the tv has a slight problem of the very top of the signal appearing on the actual screen upsidedown. Some fluff: I would hate to throw out a working crt tv, retro games, light gun games and pre 2000 something anime would be awesome on it. Sorry for bad english.
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Hello Tech Friends! I just yesterday ran into an odd problem with my Wifi Adapter that seemed like it would be an easy fix, and is turning out to be more difficult than expected. I was using my PC yesterday like normal, playing some games & browsing the web, when suddenly I got completely disconnected from Wifi. I haven't download anything new recently or performed any new unique tasks on my computer, it happened very suddenly. If I navigate within the Control Panel to Control Panel\Network and Internet\Network Connections, it shows my Wifi as "attempting to authenticate", and is stuck indefinitely trying to connect. I should note that I can still browse & see Wifi Networks available to be connected to, and all my other devices are connecting to my Wifi without an issue. This lead me to believe the issue relates to my motherboard's (Z390 I AORUS PRO WIFI) built in Wifi Adapater (Intel R Wireless-AC 9560 160MHz). Based on this hypothesis I've tried to following fixes: 1. CMOS Reset Button on Motherboard 2. Updated all motherboard drivers & BIOS 3. Uninstalled & Reinstalled Wifi Adapter Driver 4. Disable & Reenabling the Wifi Adapter 5. Run "Diagnose" option within Network Connections Control Panel > This actually fixed it for about five minutes before going back to Authenticating 6. Ensuring the Properties on my Wifi have "Can turn this off to save power" option is de-selected. Curious if anyone has any other ideas I could try. Still very surprised this happened, as I wasn't doing or downloading anything new, and it happened very suddenly mid-use. My computer is kept very clean, and wasnt damaged or anything recently. Thank you! Tyler (Seattle)
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- wifi
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Hi all, I just got a balanced cable for my iBasso SR2's only to realize after receiving my order, that this cable has a 4.4mm plug. I'm using an EVGA Nu Audio (non pro) which has Line Out over RCA and a single 6.35mm Headphone jack. As far as I could find the EVGA Nu Audio should have a balanced output but after learning some more about balanced sound I'm starting to doubt it. So my questions are; does my sound card actually have balanced output or not? And if it does, what would be the best way to hook up a 4.4mm cable to this card? Would something like this DD HiFi DJ65B work, would the output still be balanced? And if it doesn't, is it worth to get an external DAC with a balanced output and hook it up to the sound card?
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i recently got this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002O0KOV4?psc=1 for my Canon Pixma MG3620 so i could use on my network for both pc's which is all wired but no luck i dont know if it was just a dead part as i tried on some other devices an still no joy or maybe its not the right kind of part for this task if thats the case which kind of adapter should i get my budget for said part is no more then 60$ my network gear layout is as followed router - FIREWALLA GOLD (in router mode) 5-port giga-switch config is the giga-switch , nas an printer are direct to the FWG an the pc's an assorted lan devices like both nvidia shields are on the 5-port giga-switch
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- adapter
- usb to ethernet
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Just been looking though some of my adapters and i found this... At first i thought it was DP but no its completely flipped and both sides are slanted. I got out an actual DP adapter and got them side-by-side and yep its not the same at all. Does anyone have any ideas?
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So we just bought a Samsung Curved Oled G8 recently and ran into an issue. It only came with a Mini Display port to display port cord. This cord works absolutely fine with our pc BUT, the xbox has an hdmi not DP. Our issue is trying to find a compatible cord that will connect the Xbox Series S to the monitor. We've already tried a Micro hdmi to hdmi cord and that didn't work, we tried a few adapters and those didn't work (though one worked with our blu-ray player and so we have that working now which is strange). I tried micro Hdmi to Hdmi, I tried Hdmi to Usb-c, I tried hdmi to mini-display port, but not of them worked for the xbox. Does anyone have a specific brand or cord that they've used that's worked so far for them? I would really, really appreciate any help on this situation so we can get my roommate's setup working properly again. If anyone has used a cord or adapter that works please drop what it is and where you got it from so I can look into it. Thank you very much.
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- monitor
- xbox series s
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I have a HP prebuilt, I wanted to install an additional SSD, I have an open PCIe x1 slot, so I bought a PCIe x1 to m.2 adapter but I can't see the drive in an OS. In BIOS hardware diagnostic, the drive appears and passes the tests, but in a OS (Windows 10 or Linux) the drive is not recognized. Additionally, when booting it takes a really long time (3-4 min) to get to the bootloader. When disabling the PCIe x1 slot (where the adapter and SSD are) it boots immediately. Any idea what is going on? SSD: Intel 660p Adapter: RYRA 1pc NVMe PCIe M.2 NGFF SSD To PCI-E X1 Adapter Motherboard: Baker 8767