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will either of these correctly power a lenovo flex 5 with a 5500u on a linux os "(pop-os 22.04lts) vi the usb c port an still allow data transfer for other devices vi the hub ? https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Charging-GaNPrime-Detachable-Extension/dp/B09SG31NPT?th=1 https://www.anker.com/products/a83a8?variant=42388523745430 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BM46RVL8/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?smid=A294P4X9EWVXLJ&psc=1#customerReviews

Hello Tech aficionados! I'm after recommendations on a decent beefy power bank. I feel its time to retire my existing Anker relic. Are anker still the way to go do you reckon or are there some other brands I should check out? Thanks in advance! -J

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I have an LED strip connected with a four pin connector to USB and it lights up fine. Except it lights up in only one pattern and I would like to sync it with Asus Aura sync or corsair Icue but I have not been successful. How can I sync these?

This is the 4 pin RGB strip of lights with the 4-pin headers and when I plugged it into the 4 pin header on my Asus X570 Gaming Plus motherboard. I plugged in my PSU and turned it on and the Asus Aura sync lights on the mbd light up and these did not light up. Do I need an RGB controller instead? It says RGB header on the mbd btw.

Budget (including currency): 500 (MAX) USD $380 (after the dock was purchased) Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Work From home interface and set up. Then using my personal computer for light gaming. Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): Desk: The Ikea Fredehttps://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/fredde-gaming-desk-black-50219044/ Monitor: BenQ GW2765 (27" 2k) Keyboard: LG G413: I really like this key board. I like the way it feels when I type the numpad and the pact that is has a passthrough USB on it for my mouse or other accessories. Mouse: LG G502 Hero Wired(I know....) Desktop (Personal): Processor AMD Ryzen 5 1600 Six-Core Processor 3.20 GHz (stock cooler) Installed RAM 16.0 GB Graphics Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 (8Gb) System type 64-bit operating system, x64-based processor I use a PCIe WiFi Card NO Bluetooth Currently. Laptop (work): Dell Precision 7560: The non Bluetooth skew. I recently switched jobs and the new job allows work from home. In addition, I just moved and will actually have an office of my own now, not just a corner of my wife's yarn room. My work does not supply a "dock" for at home use. I went on eBay and purchased a used dock of the same model number we use in the office. With working from home I now want to upgrade the non PC part of my set up. What I want: The "easy stuff" The things I already sort of specked out. Dock (bought): Dell WD19DCS $120 Monitor: Would like to get something that wont clash with my current monitor. I cannot fit anything over 27" and I would like to stick at the "2K" resolution it works really well for me and what I do. Dual Monitor arm to save space. The harder stuff: Bluetooth Expansion: While I could use add it to my desktop I would like to be able to use my Bluetooth headphones on the work laptop for the (too many) Team calls I have through out the day. I have seen the Bluetooth USB dongles for ~$25+ if one of those would work that would be awesome because I could bring into the office also to use with my wireless earbuds and use my gaming headset (which has its own dongle) with what ever switch I end up getting. Switch: The part I need the most help on. OPTION 1: FULL KVM Switch I would like a KVM switch that has USB 3.0 so I can plug a Bluetooth dongle in it or "future proof the switch" so the laptop has 1 HDMI port, 2 thunderbolt/display ports and one of the small display ports. So Display port is my preference for a KVM switch. The issue I ran into when trying to build out my set up on my own was that HDMI KVM switches and Display Port KVM Switches are the same price when they are USB 2.0. When I switched (pun not intended) to my requirement being USB 3.0 the price of the HDMI KVM Switch went up by ~$30, but the price of the Display port version jumped about $130. Having a full KVM switch would be ideal so I don't have to switch inputs on my monitor(s) every time I plug my Laptop into the dock or want to use my personal desktop. This is why the dock was the first purchase because it was a large quality of life increase for me. OPTION 2: Just a USB 3.0 Switch. This option would allow me to plug the dock into and my desktop into USB Switch and use my keyboard/mouse/webcam all with out having to replug stuff into my desktop under my desk and the laptop. This is the cheaper option, but I would still have to reach up and fiddle with monitor inputs every time and have more cable management.

I usually switch between my messenger bag and my bookbag quite often and need a simpler way of organizing accessories within each bag and possibly simpler way of transfering everything between the two. I have a timbuk 2 command (very spacious, but not a lot of ways to organize accessories) and i have a targus bag (dont remember model, its smaller and well organized for accessories, but again, not alot of space). How do you keep your stuff organized in your laptop bags and if you change bags often how do you go about quickly moving stuff around?

I have currently acquired a phantom 3 standard not so long ago and I'm looking for some cool accessories for flight and travel, I currently have only what came with the box. Any ideas on what I should get, please tell me and if you could leave a link to the product itself Thank you Anthony

What should I get for my birthday? So, my birthday is quickly approaching, and my parents gave me a budget of $200 to spend however I like. So far, I've decided to get a laptop bag, battery pack, and bluetooth earbuds. The problem is that all of those things only total to $80, so I have no idea how to spend the leftover $120. . . Put in your ideas of what you would buy with the money. *I can't upgrade my pc as it's a small form-factor pre-built system, so It's going to be really difficult to upgrade anything useful.

I'm pretty sure the title says it all. But please, leave your comments/reasons below! TBH, they're more important than the vote. Thanks for your help! yb4zombeez

Hi i recently bought an RGB light strip from Amazon and was wondering if i connect both the molex cable to it and attach to the header

Hello, I am getting the nikon d3400 with 18-55mm DX VR lens and 70-300mm DX VR lens and I was wondering what accessories that I need. I know that I need a case and sd card but like cleaning kit? uv? blower? lenspen? what do I need ?????? Accessory wise ?????? Thanks

There is so many to choose from of various price and sizes on Amazon. Does anyone have any idea which brand is the best bargain? I only have a few dollars on my amazon account, and the last microsd I bought was a rip off (I was stupid and got this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I6QOCRG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, its cheap and isn't even the advertised size).

Hi , i have a problem with the accessories for the Lian Li Strimer (the 24 pin ), i talk about all the cables that it needs to connect could someone find me this cables in Amazon or Aliexpress perhaps , please?

Hello everyone. I recently built my first PC, but it's looking a little bland and empty inside, so I'm looking for some recommendations on case fans and cables. The case I have is the Cougar MX330-G (Tempered Glass). I'm in Australia and aiming for a purple aesthetic and trying to keep a low budget ~$200AUD Attached are some parts I've already looked at on Amazon (Prime) as well as a picture of the PC Case. Any feedback is helpful! Thanks

Hello, does anyone know where you can buy the MasterCase accessories that they show on the cases pages? Near the bottom there is a list of the previous cases and I think that is saying what it comes with. I also find it hard to believe that you cant put a LED strip in the MC Pro 6. Thank you.

What is everyone's top 5 Cables and Accessories brand that people like to buy, maybe even put a reason, just want to see what people prefer in this catergory!

Hey all! I’m just looking for suggestions for a dual monitor mount for up to 27” monitors (desk clamp stands only please) I would love to also have some extras like USB ports and cable management options! So what would be the best bang for my buck in your opinion? Let me know! Thanks!

Hey LTT Forums! I’ve been using my trusty G-Shock for about 3-4 years now and it’s worked perfectly until I was too lazy to change the battery and I’ve been toying around the idea of getting a new watch. So since it would be the only watch I’ll be having I wanted it to be discreet and be usable like a normal watch without being connected to a phone and also not look like a smart watch (not a full screen but maybe a digital time readout instead of a configurable screen and then an included screen) since I’m gonna be wearing this too school where they don’t let us get smart watches or phones I want it to be perfectly usable and when I get back home and go out I would like it to show me all the info I wanted like reading out my notifications or measuring my steps etc etc. something like the Razer Nabu watch but without the horrible quality complaints (I’m also used to a large and bulky design) also maybe around the same price point as the Nabu. Help me out! and Thanks!!

Hi all, I have an Xbox one controller which does not work (kinda). When I plug the controller into the Xbox One console, the guide button illuminates and all buttons work, enabling the menu to be navigated as normal. However, after 5(ish) seconds, no button inputs work at all, but the guide button remains illuminated. When attempting to connect wirelessly, the console and controller logos flash quickly as if they have found each other, but the controller does not sync to the console. Things I have tried: Xbox: I have tried updating the controller via the USB port on the left side of the console by following the prompts when the controller is connected. The progress bar jumps from 0% - 100% very quickly, then remains on 100%; not completing the upgrade (left plugged in for 7 hours overnight). Additionally: - 2 different cables - Battery pack in - Battery pack out - Holding the guide button, up arrow, and right arrow at the same time until the controller switches off - Hard resetting the console (holding down power button for 5-8 seconds) PC: On Windows 10 (plugged in via USB) the controller is placed in the “Xbox Peripherals” as an “Xbox Controller”. Having downloaded drivers from TechSpot (link), I uninstalled the controller. On restart, I plugged the controller in again and updated the driver to that titled “Microsoft Xbox One Controller”; the device was renamed as such, with it also being registered in the “HID Compliant Devices” section, albeit with an error triangle over the icon. Computer was restarted. With these drivers installed, the controller vibrates when plugged in, and the driver / firmware version is same as my other controller which works without issue. Despite this, the controller is not recognised by the PC, and does not update / connect to the console. Examining the properties of the controller sees it has an error “Device failed to start (Code 10)”, with “xxxxxxx” below. Additionally - 2 different cables - 2 different USB slots (3.0 and 2.0) - Battery pack in - Battery pack out - Holding the guide button, up arrow, and right arrow at the same time until the controller switches off - Checked my warranty (it has expired) I would buy another controller, but the fact this one seems to still work (for a few seconds) makes me think it can be fixed! Thanks in advance, Mix

I purchased an MSI Z270 PC Mate motherboard off Ebay recently and found out that it didn't come with any accessories. Obviously the manual, drivers, SATA cables are easily replaced/downloaded, but where do I find an I/O shield? I tried contacted MSI but they said they didn't have any available because they are given to the sellers for warranties. I tried searching on Ebay but could not find the correct I/O shield. There are so many! but they all have different cutouts and spacing. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I'm still rocking an old Galaxy S3, in which several batteries have seen better days after existing in it. I ordered a brand new one from Anker and it's coming in tomorrow. A friend of mine told me that the first thing that should be done with a new phone or phone battery is to completely drain the battery to 0% and then to charge it all the way back up to 100. Is there any truth to this? Is there anything special I should do when it comes in?

One of the things we all face, whether we are a beginner, a hobbyist/enthusiast, or even a professional is the question of asking ourselves these questions: What gear do we need? What gear do we want? Is it necessary, essential, worth it? Gear costs money. Buying gear is an investment we make and hopefully every gear we buy gives us a fair return of investment over time. Disclaimer: Just because I talk about gear that is quite often out of the budgetary range of beginners and enthusiasts, I think the ideas in the article can be scaled down and applied to gear of any price range. I often like to give a brief background of myself so that people can understand where I'm coming from when giving an opinion or thought about something. I've been working for the UN and various sister agencies for the past 10 odd years. My formal education is in IT and software engineering, design, development. But I have been passionate about photography for over twenty years, from childhood. While working in the UN system as an Information Specialist, I turned my enthusiasm for photography into a part-time profession. Then I got into video, and have been working as a part-time freelancer mainly in the area of ENG, in filming interviews and short documentary style videos for the UN on various topics. Half the time I'm working as an IT consultant, the other half as a freelance photographer and videographer. Now onto the main point: Today I was at the usual Audio/Visual professional equipment supplier (Visuals Switzerland, if you ever need to rent photo/video equipment or accessories in Switzerland they have quite an assortment of stuff) helping a colleague at work choose a video camera. This colleague of mine used to work for a French news agency for about 10+ years as a foreign correspondent journalist. The department we work for has a photo/video team that I work with from time to time, but they are often busy and do not have spare gear to go around when other people need to have things photographed or filmed. So while I was at the supplier, I decided to rent the Atomos Shogun. For those of you who don't know what it is, Atomos is the brand name and Shogun is the name of one of their products. The device is an external video recorder that can take a video signal from a camera either via a SDI or HDMI connection and encode it as a ProRes, DNxHR/HD and I believe RAW onto SSD/HDD drives. For example, if you're using a camera such as a Canon 5D something (don't worry, the Atomos recorders support other cameras too) and the internal video recording onto the memory cards are limiting but the camera can send an uncompressed clean video signal out of the HDMI port, an Atomos external recorder is perhaps a device you want to use. The Shogun is Atomos's highest end external compact portable field recorder: Accepts both SDI and HDMI inputs Records up to UHD/QFHD 4K (not DCI 4K) 30fps resolution and frame rate Has a 1920x1200 7" monitor that displays focus peaking, zebra, false color, waveforms, monitor LUTs, etc. that helps cinematographers. Retails for about $1500.00 USD Atomos also sells less costly recorders, such as the Ninja Assassin which is their second highest end compact portable field recorder. The Assassin is almost the same as the Shogun, minus the SDI ports. It is purely HDMI. Budget filmmakers might want to consider the Atomos Ninja 2 or Ninja Blade. Why did I rent the Shogun? Ok, as some of you know the video camera I currently own and operate is the Sony PXW-FS7. A great, but pricey camera. But why the Shogun? As a solo shooter the FS7 is great, but there are times when I'm working with other people and they want to view what is being recorded. The small 3.5" LCD monitor/viewfinder on the camera is a bit small for several people to crowd around and see what is going on. Especially if I have the viewfinder loupe attached. Also, when I have grid lines and camera information displayed on the screen, it's hard to see the actual scene/people being filmed. So I've been thinking of getting an external monitor, something larger and better resolution than my old SmallHD DP4, so that I can see a clean view of what is being filmed and other people can stand on the side and monitor it without crowding around the small LCD monitor/viewfinder. So my choices for an external monitor are: SmallHD's 500 or 700 series monitors Atomos Shogun or Ninja Assassin Some other brand/models I won't specify A SmallHD 500 or 700 series monitors are just external battery powered monitors. Like the Shogun the displays do include focus peaking, zebra, false color, waveforms, LUT views. And before Atomos reduced the price of the Ninja Assassin or Shogun a few weeks ago, they were cheaper. Now they cost around the same price, for the model I want. FYI, I also own a Atomos Ninja mark I and as mentioned earlier a SmallHD DP4 monitor from my DSLR video days. So I have pretty good experience with both brands. The FS7 records up to XAVC-I internally, which is a pretty good codec already to work with in post production. If a one minute video recording with XAVC-I uses 1GB of storage space, transcoding to ProRes 422 might use up about 2.5GB of storage space. But I can easily work with both formats so apart from storage space differences neither really provides me with a significant advantage, though I think my editing machines perform slightly better with ProRes. But because of the recent price drop by Atomos, I was considering the Assassin or Shogun instead of a SmallHD monitor thinking that perhaps having the ability to record footage externally might also be useful, even if I don't use it all the time. A value-for-cost viewpoint. What the FS7 records: DCI 4K and QHD 4K up to 60fps onto the XQD memory cards 1080p up to 180fps onto the XQD memory cards With the purchase of a $2000.00 expansion unit, I can add the ability to record RAW and ProRes and up to 240fps. Without the expansion unit, the SDI and HDMI outputs on the FS7 are limited to 1080p resolution for the SDI and 4K for the HDMI. HFR recording will be limited to internal recording on the XQD memory cards without the expansion unit, which with 100% certainty I will not be purchasing in the near future. Another reason I rented the Shogun was to see if I can use the SDI/HDMI outputs of the camera, without the expansion unit, to record onto an external recorder as some people told me the expansion unit was necessary. I wanted to be sure for myself. What better way than to rent a device for a day and test it? Note: there is an alternative recorder to the Atomos Shogun, the Odyssey 7Q+ which costs around $2000-2200 (around the price of the Shogun before the recent price drop). The Odyssey 7Q+ is a much better device than the Shogun, with dual SSD/HDD drive support and of course there are even more expensive options. As the internal XAVC-I footage of the FS7 is more than enough for my needs and I can record better frame rates internally than the Atomos Shogun, I doubt I will be using it as a field recorder for most of the time (if I decide to purchase it). Also, as the HDMI out of the FS7 offers 4K while the SDI doesn't, it seems that the Ninja Assassin might be a better and cheaper alternative than the Shogun. (Note: The Shogun and the Ninja Assassin are the only field recorders by Atomos capable of recording 4K). So why am I still considering the SmallHD, and set on the roughly $1500.00 SmallHD 702 when the Ninja Assassin is around $1000.00 and offers the same display resolution? (Note: Visuals do not have it for rental but I have seen it demoed.) I find that the SmallHD display is brighter, better for outdoors. The Shogun and Ninja Assassin also have bright screens but I don't think they are as bright. And while both the Atomos and SmallHD displays are glossy, the SmallHD displays are less reflective. Atomos models such as the Ninja mark 1 and Ninja 2 have dual battery connections on the back that can be hot swapped. Great for changing batteries on the fly. The newer Shogun and Assassin only have one battery connections, an extra accessory is needed to support two hot swap batteries. The SmallHD displays that I am considering all have dual hot swap battery connections in the back. The 700 series supports both Sony and Canon batteries, and I already own a few Sony batteries. (note: the Sony batteries used by the SmallHD displays are the same type as the ones used on the Atomos products.) The build quality of the SmallHD displays are better, though that doesn't mean the Atomos build quality is bad. I was testing a rental unit so I won't judge Atomos, though I have seen the non-rental versions on display. The SmallHD display is thinner and lighter. BUT... the Atomos offers the additional capability to record onto an external storage device, in ProRes, if I ever need it. And the Ninja Assassin is cheaper if I don't care about SDI connectivity. Other factors I took into consideration: If I buy either, I need to buy more Sony batteries. I can find cheap non-Sony brand ones on eBay, but I will need to buy higher capacity ones. That means I need to carry more items in my bag, extra charger and cables because the batteries for the SmallHD/Atomos are of a different type than the Sony batteries for my camera. Will need more storage, if I use the Atomos to record ProRes (more SSD drives for the recorder and more storage space on my NAS). It means I need to spend a few extra minutes connecting the device to my camera. My final decision: I will hold off on buying either a SmallHD or Atomos, at least for a couple of months. I now know what to expect from an Atomos recorder, and what limitations I will face. What I want: either a SmallHD 702 Bright or Atomos Shogun What I need: an external monitor for looking at a clean view of the footage being recorded, and one that might support waveforms and monitor LUTs Can I continue working without them: yes Should I get a second opinion from another person(s), perhaps from people who have experience with Atomos, SmallHD or other brands? Probably not. Buying a camera is often a personal choice, and the same applies to the accessories you need. The main thing is you need to know why you need this and what you need it for. Don't buy a camera or accessory because someone else tells you it's a great something. Their requirements and usage of the device and yours will always be different. If you don't know or understand what you need, it's hard for anyone else to help and you definitely will not understand why someone is suggesting you get this product instead of the product you think you should be getting. Just because you want something doesn't mean you need it. And just because you need something doesn't mean you can't continue working without it. I might read this post again later and make some edits. My aim was to provide a glimpse of the decision making process that goes through the mind of someone who works with an assortment of gear. Additionally, I have a few more commentary pieces that I might share. One of them is a comparative example of using a DSLR versus a consumer camcorder, and why one might not always be the most suitable piece of equipment.

Hey there! I wanted to share with you my first review. Let me know what you think. https://youtu.be/g2EhhNiGBDQ

Hey guys! Never posted here before, but I trust this group and I had an interesting question that came to my mind after seeing a build, so I wanted to reach out to you all. A user on a social site I use posted photos of his LoZ build, and someone posed a question asking if it played the "Item Grab" sound *You got a THING!!* when it powered up. Now, I know you can change the sounds once the computer has booted, but it got me to thinking: there are programs that exist which allow you to play midi files through your internal speaker. Is there currently a way to adjust, either by a program, or by a third party device, that you could have your computer play a short sound clip on post? Thanks for your help! Here's the person's build: http://imgur.com/gallery/mfuy5 Sound that I was thinking would fit his build:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBtsMTnstZM