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If you've ever used a VPS, you know that it can be used as a webserver, but now I question; How does the dedicated server, that the VPS is hosted on, host a website on port 80 for all those VPS webservers? Because I have 1 public IP, and I can only set 1 port 80... Can anyone explain this a bit more to me? (Explain like I'm 5 if you can, I'm not that good at networking)

My intel dq35joe is pwr looping it turns on then off then on then off and so on. I tried everything and I've only have this mobo for a month.

Hi all, I just over locked my pentium g3258 to 4.0GHZ and at 100% load am getting about 85 degrees Celsius. Is this safe?

sudo netstat -tlnp Active Internet connections (only servers) Proto Recv-Q Send-Q Local Address Foreign Address State PID/Program name tcp 0 0 127.0.0.1:4711 0.0.0.0:* LISTEN 1112/pihole-FTL tcp 0 0 127.0.0.1:43467 0.0.0.0:* LISTEN 5319/containerd tcp 0 0 0.0.0.0:80 0.0.0.0:* LISTEN 19951/lighttpd tcp 0 0 0.0.0.0:53 0.0.0.0:* LISTEN 1112/pihole-FTL tcp 0 0 127.0.0.1:631 0.0.0.0:* LISTEN 750/cupsd tcp6 0 0 ::1:4711 :::* LISTEN 1112/pihole-FTL tcp6 0 0 :::80 :::* LISTEN 19951/lighttpd tcp6 0 0 :::53 :::* LISTEN 1112/pihole-FTL tcp6 0 0 ::1:631 :::* LISTEN 750/cupsd I want to set up a steam cache server, but i have to use port 80. Lighttpd is using that port. What is it? how can i change/kill it ?

I got a new water cooler and I'm getting 80°C in bios. I can only do a front mount. Nothing i do works. Yes I have the correct amount of thermal paste. Yes the fans are on correctly. Yes the wiring is correct. One thing I noticed is that one of the tubes/pumps is cold and vibration while the other is isnt cold or vibrating. I dont know if that's the problem but I just need help. Also some games I play have gotten worse. I'm getting worse fps, lagging more, and that's pretty much it. But if anyone has any ideas I'll take them. Thank you.

Im not really sure how long i have this problem, not more than a month tho. Doesent matter what game i try, or what online platform (steam, ubi, ea, etc), or even stuff that i installed from cd. I tried Xbox game dvr, disable full screen optimalization, regedit, turn on and off gsync, checkd if my monitor is in 144hz, vsync off, borderless, windowed, full screen, newest nvidia driver, nvidia experience is uninstalled, everything i could find in google basicly. Does someone have any idea? my config can and did handle games easily before. R7 2700x GTX 1080 16 GB DDR4 ram Thanks in advance not a native speaker here sry

Hii there, I got my gaming PC rig and it’s comfotable to add Corsair RM850x gold certificated fully modular psu (Cost : 10900RS). And Corsair RM1000x gold certificated fully modular psu (Cost : 9500RS). Why Corsair RM1000x having less cost than RM850x? Which one should I go with?

So we have two webservers on our one static ip. The first webserver is a clock-in machine and its important that employees can remotely clock in (we are pushing a domain to that). The second is a synology nas running webstation with an apache 2.4 server aswell. We want to use the NAS to host our own websites. The issue is that there are only two ports 80; 443. The clock in machine uses port 80; but we need our websites to be able to be on 80 and 443. I know a simple solution is put the websites just on port 443, but we dont want people to have to type https:// before out website and if they don't type that it will redirect them to the clock-in machine. Now there is the reverse of that; the clock-in machine on 443 and our websites only on port 80. This actually does work but employees were freaking out because they would get a not secure error (the clock-in machine wont allow for ssl encryption certificates to be installed); they would just have to push "advance to site" but its not ideal. And with that setup; if people tried to access out sites through https:// they would hit the time clock. The issue is the time-clock is a trash web server with extremely limited abilities; you cant even put it on a custom port; 80 or 443 only! I tried doing a domain redirect with apache to an internal ip (where the time-clock is), but I know that would never work externally. I work with a lot of very non techy people so solutions like just use https or a vpn is just way to complicated. The perfect setup would be a simple domain to clock in externally. And our other domains would redirect to our NAS sites... but it's not a perfect world haha. If anyone has a solution you would be my life saver!! If there is not solution then the time-clock will probably go back to 443. Is there anyway to redirect an external domain to an internal ip, without pushing external nat to that ip?? For reference sake we have a NSA 2600 (sonicwall) firewall. And the way I had it was external access through port 80 to the NAS IP; then external access through port 443 to the time-clock internal IP. Thanks in advance!

is vs450 good ? some saying no 80+ rating ? what the heck is that ? that 80 + certification ?

Doing this for a friend on a tight budget.

All the time I'll see people recommend PSUs based on efficiency. This, although fundamentally a good idea so that you don't end up with a stick and some chewing gum powering your system, shows that most do not understand what 80 PLUS efficiency implies. Let's get a couple myths out of the way: - "A higher 80 PLUS rating correlates to better quality." Incorrect. Certain components in a PSU do need to be of a certain quality to achieve higher efficiency (typically MOSFETs and diodes), however, quality of soldering, certain capacitors, etc, can be forgone in achieving an exemplary 80 PLUS rating. Electrical performance can be ditched as well. I like to use the EVGA G1 as an example of this. It's made of above average componentry, performs lackingly, and achieves gold efficiency. Then there's the EVGA B2, which is constructed about as well, performs better electrically, and advertises 80 PLUS Bronze efficiency (it actually achieves 80 PLUS Silver efficiency but that standard has been given up by and large). The EVGA B2 is a better PSU than the G1, yet it wastes slightly more electricity. This will correlate to a marginally more expensive power bill (pennies on the dollar for most home users) but ensures you a better power supply for your money. If, however, you plan to run a very power-hungry system for several hours on end then a more efficient power supply can save a more noticeable amount of money, especially if used heavily during hours of the day where electricity is more expensive. On another note: some brands will undersell their unit's rated wattage if it can achieve higher efficiency at lower loads, I.E. a brand may sell a 550W 80 PLUS Platinum rated unit that can actually output 600W+ but would have to be advertised at a lower efficiency rating if they were to sell it at that rated wattage. - "Higher 80 PLUS efficiency keeps the PSU cooler." Not to any serious degree, but this is technically true. A less efficient PSU will waste more electricity and wasted electricity is turned into heat. This is not likely to have an appreciable impact on the temperature of your room or system however as your system doesn't really draw that much power, thus it's better to optimize your system's airflow before throwing an AX1500i in your system to minimize heat created by the power supply. Since PSUs exhaust heat anyways the temperature of your system's hardware will not be impacted to any noticeable degree. Different PSUs also handle cooling differently and 80 PLUS efficiency doesn't correlate to the size of the fan used or the heat-dissipation abilities of the unit. - "Power supplies are most efficient at around 50% load." This is, by and large, untrue, and seems to be set in stone by many simply because the peak efficiency measured by Ecova's testing of just three load levels is at 50% always. Many manufacturers or reviewers test PSU efficiency at different loads and post charts online, if this matters to you, but many PSUs are more efficient at 60% load than 50% and many are more efficient towards 30%. Don't buy a PSU based on how efficient it will be with whatever hardware you have in it. Different topologies and different PSU platforms handle efficiency differently. This should be a non-issue and you should be looking at buying the best PSU you can get with your money. - "If you have a 1000W PSU with an 80% efficiency then you are only going to be able to get 800W from your power supply." This is incorrect. If you have an 80% efficient 1000W PSU then, when putting it under enough load to max its output you are going to be drawing more power from the walls - not losing output from your power supply. In this instance, putting a 1000W PSU under max load with an 80% efficiency would mean you're drawing 1250 watts from the wall. Math goes as such: X / Y= Z 1000W / .80 = 1250 1250W drawn from the wall X represents the wattage you're using (say 350W with a Ryzen 7 3700X and RTX 2080 Super under 100% system load), Y represents the efficiency in decimals (an 85% efficient PSU would be .85), and Z represents your total system draw from the wall. For this calculation we're assuming that the PSU in question has exactly enough wattage to power the system at 100% load and is 87% efficient at 100% draw, making it an 80+ Gold efficient power supply. So in our case with the 3700X and 2080 Super: 350 / .87 = 402 watts drawn from your power outlet Note, however, that efficiency is not consistent throughout the load of the power supply. Power supplies are more and less efficient at different loads. They are also more efficient when connected to a more powerful grid, the 230V nominal, which you may use if you don't live in North America. Check that your PSU allows for operation under both voltages. Most modern ones switch operation automatically. Other, often older units, will have a hard switch at the back of the unit to switch to choose from either 115V or 230V (note, DO NOT SWITCH TO THE ONE THAT DOESN'T MATCH THE ELECTRICAL OUTPUT OF YOUR WALL OUTLET! This doesn't usually end well!). This graph demonstrates the efficiency curve of a 2011-era Corsair TX750 when plugged into a 115V AC versus being plugged into a 230V AC. Note the TX750 is an 80+ Bronze rated PSU. If you live in the United States, for example, you are using a 110-120V (115 nominal) AC through a standard NEMA 5-15 socket. Your power supply may be more or less efficient than your manufacturer claims because they may advertise efficiency through a 230V AC, though standard 80 PLUS efficiency testing is done on a 115V AC. Note that these tests for efficiency are also done under very specific test environments and do not necessarily reflect real-world scenarios so you may achieve higher or lower efficiency than rated by the manufacturer. And just to finish up let's go list the various 80 PLUS ratings and their efficiency at different power draws on a 115V and 230V AC as well as 230V AC redundant. Note that Silver isn't really used anymore and the efficiency of a PSU that would achieve Silver certification would typically just be rounded up or down to Bronze or Gold. "230V internal redundant" refers to efficiency in a redundant scenario like in a data center. This guy from Dell explains it. One last thing I want to make a little more hard-hitting here. 80 PLUS efficiency ratings were invented to save corporations and industrial services money in the long-term, not home users! A company with 1000 computers all consuming 100W for 10 hours a day will see a much greater benefit from having all 80 PLUS Titanium units in their systems than you likely would with your system. Don't spend tons of money trying to get a super efficient PSU when a PSU that's just as good, costs less, and achieves a tier lower 80 PLUS rating is drastically cheaper. Resources: Ecova (formerly Ecos), the 80 PLUS certification founder (and located very near me in Portland!) Wikipedia - There's more info here if you want to go down the Wikipedia rabbit hole Plug Load Solutions - A list of all PSU companies and how many different PSUs they have that achieve Ecova's various 80 PLUS standards.

Budget is 80 bucks in Amazon gift cards. That's the start. I've been looking to get a new SSD as the ancient Samsung one in my laptop just died today. Been looking at the surprisingly cheap Hyper X Fury and the Crucial MX100. My budget does go to 80 bucks so I have a bit of room to spare if you have any better suggestions for 120-ish GB drives. Of the basic benchmarks it seems like the Crucial one is where it's at. Should I say case closed and buy the MX100 or should something else (remember, $80) be bought instead? EDIT: This is going into a cheap laptop with horrible battery life that will be used for basic tasks - web browsing and office stuff. Using Windows 8.1.

Any good PC cases for the price? Looking for an upgrade from an old PC but don't know which one to buy... Any help would be greatly appreciated!

hi everyone first time poster. think ill come around here more often anyway, im building a new computer for gaming. i got some nice parts for a medium budget. i dont have much money so i was happy to find a case in my garage with a window side panel. which is great because i wanted to use some led lights problem is i found that this case will only fit 80mm fans im sure i can find some nice led fans in that size but im worried that my computer will overheat with such small fans. i was wondering if anyone knew of anygood strong 80mm fans that would be fit for a gaming rig. if it even exists.

Whats the main differences in the H80 and the H80i? I dont know really cuz on some pages all the specs are the same..

Hi LTT. I've been browsing the part of the forum for quite some time and I know there's a lot of these threads and I don't want to interrupt another OP's questions with all my questions. So, I need a new pair of headphones to replace my horrible Roccat Kave 5.1 and I was looking for some second hand deals and found a pair of unused DT 770 Pro. The seller listed them at $145 so I might be able to negotiate them down to $130. If I had to buy the Beyerdynamic DT 770 Pro from a retailer here in Denmark I would have to pay at least $220. Is the DT 770 Pro 80 Ohm good enough for what I intend to use it for. I do a bit of gaming but perfect positioning is not required at all. I've gotten used to the Kave so anything would pretty much be an improvement. I prefer a better music experience over a gaming experience. I live at home right now, so there's some noise and will move to the capital soon where there's a lot more noise. What music do I listen to: Electronic Hardstyle Hardcore Drum and bass Trance Rock/Metal Linkin Park All That Remains Volbeat Sienna Skies I guess there wont be a headset that's perfect for all these genres at the same time. Again I'm coming from a crappy Roccat Kave so everything will be an improvement. Anything I should consider, maybe another headset will be better for me? Hope this is enough information for some of you to help me, otherwise please let me know. Cheers Shaqalac.

I had my krakens for 1 year and they broken. and I want to buy new krakens but are there other recommended headsets?

I need a new keyboard and I really, really want a mechanical keyboard. Preferably Cherry MX Brown key switches, for me it's the perfect starter. I would also like the keyboard to be full size. I have a budget of 80 bucks. I already picked out two main contenders, but I'm open to more options. The first one is the CM Storm Quickfire XT: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823129022 And the Tt eSports Poseidon: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823162027 I was looking at the CM Storm Quickfire TK but Newegg sold out of them at this price point. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Darin PS. This is my first post, be gentile.

Hi, I'm looking to buy a new pair of headphones. I will use it mainly for: listening to music (dubstep, rock), playing guitar and watching movies. My budget is around 60$, but if it is worth it, i'm willing to spend a little bit more (50-80$). The headphones should be comfortable because I'm going to wear them a lot. I already looked at some headphones like: the Sennheiser hd419 and hd205 II., Sony zx600 and AKG k619, k511 and k512 mk II. I would also love some other suggestions. But I really can't decide so please help

Does anyone know a good mic in this price range that is good for say podcasts and commentaries? Thanks ^^

So I'm playing BF4 right now and my graphics card sounds like its going to explode, I checked MSI Afterburner and its at nearly 80 degrees Celsius. Should I be scared? Is it because I didn't install my PSU upright and instead downwards? Note: When I turn the fan speed up to 75 the temperature goes down to like 40-50, should I just keep it loud, fast, and cool?

What is a good 80 dollar mic for commentating? I live in Canada to help you price it and whatnot.

Hey all, Been wondering about upgrading my current Corsair H80 (not the "i" version) to something new. I am rather satisfied with the H80 loop, as for performance it seems to do the job perfectly. I am, however, rather annoyed by the fans that came stock with it, rather noisy to my taste. Obviously I could look into upgrading the fans, but if any of you have a suggestion to a really well-performing closed loop alternative to the H80, I'd be grateful for any advice. Proper water cooling is on my agenda, but not for another few months at least. A new GPU is higher on the list. Thanks in advance!