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Country: India Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Blender Cycles, Adobe Photoshop / Illustrator, Cyberpunk 2077, Forza Horizon 5, Minecraft RTX SCENARIO: So, I have my system with me since almost 6 years, her name is Stygian and she is my first high end build. I majorly use her for my Automotive Design related projects along with Gaming and Entertainment. The specs are as follows: Intel Core i7 6700k / NVidia GeForce GTX 1070 FE / Asus Z170 Pro Gaming / HyperX DDR4 16GB RAM / Cooler Master MA610p / Adata SSD + WD HDD / Cooler Master G550M / Cooler Master CM Storm I have it paired with Logitech Mechs, Wacom Intuos, LG IPS 4K panel and HK Soundsticks 4 for my requirements. Elephant in the room: Now, I have a MSI NVidia GeForce RTX 3090 Suprim X sitting with me that I would love to use. The Plan: As I am not willing to spend too much of money on a computer in today's market (And do not wish to go through the pain of re-installing windows and migrate the data) I have planned something out: I will be investing a bit in a Cooler Master 850 Gold PSU, a Corsair or Lian Li Cabinet and a couple more RAM sticks, then just throw my current system into it along with the 3090, and keep my 1070 FE as a pretty trophy. I need help with: Knowing if it will be a 'survivable' enough combination, and/or if there are better ways I could plan this revamp out, as I have fallen quite off from the PC building world in past few years. I am willing to keep the 6700k and the mobo because it is good enough for my needs, and I don't wish to break my wallet that is being eaten by my car and bike and bike gear! Hope to know your views, thank you!
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My CPU corevoltage is always way too high. And even when I set it manually onto generous amounts it is unstable with overclocking speeds that should be totally fine. With CPU Voltage on AUTO: - corevoltage goes over 1.46V without overclocking when just opening browsers sometimes --> Fans go to 100% load (because the CPU produces too much heat) With CPU Voltage on Manual: - corevoltage set to 1.38V causes instability on 4.5Ghz OC: e.g. bluescreens (Others run 4.8GHz stable at 1.36V) - corevoltage set to 1.38V causes instability even on 4.4Ghz OC: e.g. screen freezes and I need to hard restart My setup: Z170A Asus motherboard (BIOS Version 3802 (newest Version)) Intel i7 6700K (4GHz base, 4.2GHz boost) 16GB DDR4 RAM (2400MHz) Crucial Ballistix (Dimm slot A2 & B2) GTX 1070 Zotac Samsung 970 Evo M.2 SSD (1TB) 2x 140mm & 2x 120mm case fans I do not understand what the issue is and I read that people were having similar issues with the same motherboard and CPU but I never found out how to solve it... Please help let me know what the Issue could be.. PS 4.4GHz OC with voltage set on AUTO when opening a 2nd browser?!?!? WTH how does it go to 1.456V????:
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Just installed a 3080 FE on my Asus Maximus ROG Formula VIII and I am receiving a DRAM issue (code 53 and dram light is on.) I replaced a custom look 1070 FTW which worked flawless, but was able to get my hand on a FE. I can boot into win 10 with no GPU and pervious GPU worked the morning before install . I flashed the BIOs to newest update, and have a flesh OS in stall with no files on the Only drive. I reseated all the ram and removed and reinstalled the same Cmos battery. Only thing I can think of is possible bad cable from PSU or dead GPU? 6700k custom water loop 32gb 1000w EVGA PSU 256 m.2 Samsung gen 3
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Hi guys I ran into a problem with my cooler today (Corsair H45 Hydro CPU Cooler AiO) and desperately need a replacement quickly basically it leaked and I'm looking for a good air cooler because this one was already replaced once already same reason (same one installed again) and I think I'm done with water-cooling for a bit.. I'm using a intel i7 6700k cooler not overclocked just the stock.. I'm doing long gaming sessions and I want something that would withstand that.. and here's my motherboard just to see if it would fit on it GIGABYTE Z170-Gaming K3 ATX Motherboard ps. I know it's a old rig but still works..
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I am still rocking a 6700K and now think about upgrading my GPU. Right now I have a GTX1080 but for some games it just doesn't cut it anymore (1440p/75Hz Monitor). My question now is, what the 'optimal' GPU for the 6700K would be, before the CPU becomes a bottleneck. Was thinking about the 2060 Super. Or could I even go higher maybe? Any advice would be greatly appreciated
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Hi. I'm looking for insight as to why my computer is slower than suspected, even after fresh install of windows 10. My main complaint is the boot-time, which is about 50 seconds at the moment. The computer is from 2015, and have been used to simple gaming such as CS:GO, but mainly as a workstation for studies. My computer consists of the following: - Motherboard: Asus z170 deluxe - CPU: Intel I7 6700k - CPU cooler: Noctua NH-D15s - PSU: Corsair RM850x - Storage: Corsair Force MP600 1tb installed to on-board M.2 slot (not with the pcie expansion card that also comes with the motherboard). - GPU: Radeon HD7950 - Memory: 2 x Kingston DDR4 2133 mhz 8gb - BIOS version: 1302 - OS: Windows 10 pro My knowledge of BIOS settings etc is very limited, I only tried to change settings such as Asus auto performance tuner and XMP memory, without any good results. Any advice on how to improve boot-time speed and speed in general are welcome.
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Hi all, I have my 6700k running at extreme temperatures and suspect it might be something to do with the aio pump but it still seems a little extreme to me. once the system has been running it will sit at 75-95*C idle with 2% load, fans in the Corsair H115 running at speeds that resemble a helicopter taking off, let alone browsing the net and watching YouTube. sometimes I can’t get past the bios screen because it’s too hot to boot (if I restart mid session) I have put new thermal thermal grizzly paste on multiple times, repositioned fan configuration (every fan is working) , loaded optimised defaults in asus bios (to remove overclocks). is it likely that this is just a aio pump problem? Could it be the cause of this much heat? If I get a cheap air cooler to test would this see drastic results results turn to normal on idle? not sure if I should sink money into a new aio/air cooler or get a new cpu /mobo combo (since this is now a secondary computer) thanks in advance cheers Chris
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Intel i7-6700k and MSI Krait Gaming Mobo
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From the album: The New Rig Build
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From the album: Skylake Desktop Build 2015
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From the album: Skylake Desktop Build 2015
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Budget (including currency): £800 Country: England Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: games wise I tend to play a lot of BeamNG.Drive (almost 700 hours on steam ha), I also play Forza horizon 5, Call of duty cold war, Subnautica, citys skylines and VR games on my Oculus Rift S Work wise I do Photo editing on Lightroom / Photoshop Other details Existing Rig is a Core i7 6700K 16GB DDR4 Ram and a RTX 2070. storage I have two 1TB NVME drives a Samsung 970 EVO and a SK Hynix one, cooler wise I have a 360mm corsair all in one, also have a 10Gig Intel NIC to connect to my NAS I have a 1440P monitor @ 165hz Need help on what CPU I should get next I quite like the look of the 12th Gen Intel but not sure what the best one for me is any help would be great cheers I think my GPU is fine still currently I feel it is being held back by my older CPU
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Hi, I've set up an Intel Unraid System (6700k, Z170 board, 16GB RAM, RX580 GPU). The problem i'm having is the Windows 10 VM will only be able to output video to a specific output display. I wanted to set it up as a VR rig in my living room, and before this, it had Windows 10 directly installed on the SSD's and worked with out main television. After installing unraid, setting the Intel Onboard GPU for unraid and the RX580 to the VM, it refuses to give any display out, unless i plug it into a spare tv in another room, which enables the display output and shows up. Is there something in Unraid to tell it to output a signal regardless of what it's plugged into, or would this be a TV issue (keep in mind, it worked perfectly before, with the same GPU, Same TV, Same cable, Same port).
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I noticed alot of question about the 6700k online, like OC temps and voltage. I did OC a 6700k on a Asus Z170-A at 4.6ghz on 1.285v. The pictures attached are my temps after a couple of hours, gaming, browsing etc... CPU is cooled with a EVGA CLC 360. Attached fan curve too. Pump is at full speed. Manual cpu OC with XMP profile for 3000mhz ddr4
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Hello LTTians, I'm just wondering whether to go with Hyper 212 RGB Black Edition VS MA610P RGB for my 6700k. Also, don't recommend liquid coolers because where I live, they are overpriced as heck. And also both Hyper 212 RGB Black Edition and MA610P RGB are of similar price in my place and also which would fit in my Phanteks P400s. Thanks in advance.
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- cooler master
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I am trying to help my friend troubleshoot a weird performance problem he has been having, and I would appreciate any help. This will be a bit long if anyone can follow along and please give some advice. My friend got a good deal from a buddy for a 6700k with an Asus Maximus viii Hero, he also purchased some new (16gb) 3200mhz ram for it. He also has a 1060 3gb card that he is still running from his old build for now. His game of choice right now is COD Warzone, and he is having MASSIVE performance issues in the game. I mean 15-20 FPS. While a quad core does struggle in COD Warzone, it should absolutely get over 60 FPS consistently, especially since he plays at all low settings. It also isnt even showing 100% CPU usage on his task manager. So I have been trying to help him fix this PC to work with COD Warzone. Sometimes he plays fine for a few minutes and then his FPS just completely tanks back to 15-20 FPS. It is so crazy inconsistent that it does this, once in awhile we will try a fix which works for a few minutes, and it immediately tanks his FPS 5 minutes later. I have attempted every common sense fix to the game and his PC. Here is the really strange thing though. His old build was incredibly budget oriented, an i5 6500 with 8 gigs of 2133mhz ram, 1060 3gb. And it ran COD WARZONE flawlessly, besides massive stutter from the system running out of ram and writing to the hard disk. So our friend offered his old build to him that he just stopped using for a really nice deal. This way he could run 3200mhz ram, and have a nice speed boost from the raw CPU clock speed improvements. While the stutter was incredibly bad for him, the actual FPS was fine outside of the stutter. But this new build he got is absolutely struggling with the game right now. Things we have tried - Installing on an SSD - Allocating less vram usage with a change to the config file (this worked for a short time and then started messing up again) - Overclocking his GPU -Reinstalling the game (this worked for a little bit but then a new update hit and it messed up performance again) -Scan and Repair game files - running all low settings -running CPU affinity at normal -Power Plan to Maximum Performance -His monitor is plugged into the correct port So this leaves us off with tonight. I was running out of solutions but thought "maybe his CPU is throttling" because he is not familiar with building PCs and might have put an inadequate amount of thermal paste on. So I asked him to record his temperature in game. His Temperature was 90-98c. I immediately told him that was far too high for that chip, and to reapply the thermal paste for tomorrow. But then I asked him to give me his voltage, and his voltage on stock settings was 1.428 under load. Which if I am not mistaken is way too high for Skylake architecture (should be around low 1.3 ish under load I think). BUT THEN, when he was playing...even when he experienced this weird issue where his FPS was dropping to 15-20 FPS...his CPU NEVER THERMAL THROTTLED. It ran at 4.2 on all cores the entire duration. So while that temperature and voltage is something that needs to be addressed, that is not the reason for his performance issues. Another weird part is that people who play Warzone with that CPU are usually pegged at 100% CPU USAGE, his hovers around the 50-60% mark, sometimes lower. I am absolutely perplexed by his performance issues right now. While COD Warzone is a hot mess for optimization, there is no reason he should be getting 15-20 FPS. And it happens so strangely too, some times its fine for a bit and then hard dips for 10 mins until the round is almost over. We thought we fixed it multiple times. The game would run (locked at 63 fps) and experience absolutely no issues. Then the next round it would struggle again as soon as he loaded in. Other times he would struggle for the first 5 minutes of the round, and then his FPS would come back. It is so inconsistent that I cannot nail down this issue. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. TLDR: Friend upgraded to a new CPU and is experiencing worse performance than his old budget build
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So I finally could buy the parts that I wanted and I have my PC now running for 6 months and yeah here are some pics: Front My RIG: With cool GPU arm Cable management Realbench and System: What do you think? (Sorry that it is dusty :P) Later I want to upgrade to an Asus 1080 ti and maybe a EKWB Watercooling.
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Hey guys, I know the basics of overclocking. I can get a stable overclock on my i7-6700k of 4.6GHz at 1.37V (adaptive) - settings in BIOS, LLC: Level 4 (Asus motherboard), Everything else Auto or unchanged. When stress testing with this overclock in AIDA 64, I don't see temps rise above 60'C (using AIO with 360mm rad). So I should have plenty of head room. However, my problem is that if I try to go to 4.7GHz I have to go to 1.4+ V (thats a 0.03V jump in voltage) and that isn't even 100% stable. Why is this the case? Is there some other settings I can change to get a more stable overclock without it sounding like I've got a jet parked on my desk. I know I don't have the best 6700k in terms of the silicon lottery.
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Hello everyone. When i was trying to dellid my cpu with a knife, i managed to damage te pcb. Does anyone know if it will still work.
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So, not a Ryzen thread, WHUUUUAAAT? In all seriousness, I built my PC not long ago, and other than having great performance and looking amazing, my motherboard is really pissing me off. Some features aren't working properly, some are bad, some are unstable and some have just a cheap feeling quality (I'm using an MSI Z170A Gaming Pro Carbon). I've been looking around and I think I have found the motherboard I want: the Aorus Z270X Gaming 5; it has: DUAL NIC A MONOBLOCK AVAILABLE simplistic look good placement of the LEDs affordable price. Though I would like to know: How well does it overclock a Skylake CPU (I'm not getting a KabyLake chip, Im not that stupid) Are the drivers stable? And is there any alternative options for around that price that has those things (except for the leds, as long I can turn it off, I couldnt care less)? (if the board has a VRM block instead of a mono block it's fine, as long it's an EK or a bitspower one)
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Hey guys, after I finished buliding my gaming desk - if anybody is interested: - I decided to upgrade my hardware. I got an intel core i7 6700k with the Asus Maximus VIII Hero . Like many people complain, I also realized the high stock voltage but I set it down to 1,15 volts and had no problems. After that I started overclocking. I got it stable @4,5 GHz with 1,25 volts on manual core voltage. Because I don´t want the CPU to run all the time at 4,5 GHz and higher voltages I switched to adaptive mode. Here the bios settings: But thats where the wierd stuff showed up. After starting windows the voltages got to 1,264 or even 1,28 volts even if I just start google chrome or something. On load tested with cinebench the voltage got to about 1,248 like I set in the bios. Is this normal or did I miss a bios setting? I just tested the same on manual mode again. Even there I have 1,264 volts on idle and 1,232 volts testing with cinebench but not as bad as adaptive mode. Hope you can help me
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(For full specs, see my sig) So my i7-6700K used to be able to overclock fairly well. I got it up to 4.5Ghz at a time and then dialed it back to 4.4 just for the sake of temps. During various other crashes, I decided to just put the CPU back on auto and I would come back to overclocking it again after the new RAM modules came in. I went from 2x8@2400 DDR4 to 4x8@3000 DDR4. While the motherboard supports 3000Mhz RAM as overclocked, things were just too unstable and I had to turn XML off and set it to 2400MHz. Now, any time I want to go back and overclock my CPU, even to 4.3Ghz, I can't even get back into Windows. Whether I do this through the UEFI UI or through the Intel Xtreme Tuning Utility, the result is the same: freeze and crash until the motherboard resets its CMOS. Luckily, I do have some OC profiles saved on the UEFI so going back to a known good settings isn't tedious. But I'm just wondering what happened. Why I can't get any stable OC anymore. Why the PC just crashes on startup rather than find itself at an unstable point during heavy use. Feel free to ask questions to get more insights.
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So yesterday I oc'd my i7 6700k just a bit to 4.5gHz and is running just fine and stable. The only thing that worries me a bit is that the thermals tend to hop time to time almost up to 80 degree celsius. It's only during very heavy use (gaming + streaming to twitch) but it makes me enough worried to think that should i ease up on the oc or should I change the thermal paste on my h100i? Currently I just have the stock h100i but maybe i should do a change up to arctic silver 5 or mx-4?
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Hello guys, i've overclocked my 6700k by increasing the ratio from 40 to 46. In windows when i run CPU-Z it shows me that the max ratio is 46 and when i run stress test my CPU is working on 4600 MHz, but in BIOS on the right side panel the numbers are still like the stock ones. I have updated my BIOS to the latest one but didn't get any changes. It's my first overclocking experience and i am a bit confused. Does anyone knows what is this and how to fix it? Is it a big problem or that's how it should be?
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Hi all Pc specs: i7 6700k Msi z170a gaming m7 16 gb ddr4 3200 Evga gtx 1080 ftw Monitor : Asus rog swift 1440p i play world of warcraft legion but i cant run wow on maxed Ultra settings with the above specs. so what should i upgrade ? Sli the 1080? or x99 mobo with 6 core cpu?
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Hi guys! I have a problem... again... Back in December I started this thread: As you can see, after my PC woke up from sleep mode one day, I kept getting memory related BSOD's. People here and on other multple forums said that it was most probably RAM, which was my original thought as well. I decided to replace my RAM in the store I bought it from. It took a while because of the holidays and also I'm busy so I didn't have much time to get to it, but when I finally received my new set of G.SKILL Ripjaws RAM and installed Windows 10 again just to have a fresh install... I realized nothings changed. When Windows installed without problems I immediatelly thought it was going to be ok, but when installation was completed and it was time for the first configuration of Win 10... I received a BSOD again. I don't remember which one was it, but most likely PFN_LIST_CORRUPT. I was shaking. It was so bad that It took me some time (I know I'm an idiot for not approaching the problem immediatelly) to even try and do something about it, but I won't wait anymore. I need your advice. I think every detail is in my old thread, but feel free to ask me anything. I just want to enjoy my new PC again as for now I'm stuck with my old (REALLY OLD) E2200 GT220 PC and I can't handle it anymore. Is it likely that some files on my SSD are still corrupted? (I still have original recovery partitions in Windows installer, I haven't touched them, however I installed a fresh Win 10 on the "main" part of the drive) Is it the fault of RAM slots? Or am I so unlucky that I got bad RAM... twice? Any help will be appreciated as I'm so scared and don't know what to do.