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Showing results for tags '5v'.
Found 24 results
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I have a Gigabyte B365 HD3 MoBo, the Thermaltake ARGB AIO Cooler I bought needs a 5v 3 pin connection for ARGB but my motherboard only has a 12v GRB connection could I buy a transfer hub that connects with SATA power and the 4 pin 12v GRB connection on my MoBo to theoretically make the Cooler actually have a working screen. And if this would work would I also be able to change the screen with the Thermaltake software.
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I have the Gamdias Talos E2 Elite PC Case (https://www.gamdias.com/en/component/case/TALOS_E2_ELITE) , and there is a female 5V 3 Pin cable running from its set of ARGB Case Fan cables. I’m trying to connect the ThermalRight Frozen Prism 240 Black ARGB Water Cooler (http://www.thermalright.com/product/frozen-prism-240-black-argb/), which has its own set of male and female 5V 3 Pin ARGB cables (sets of male / female connectors from each fan, and another set running from the Water Block). I was assuming that I could just Daisy Chain all of these together (from the Case Fan cables to the Water Cooler cables), and then the ARGB Lighting from the Water Cooler would be in sync with the Case Fans lights. That did not happen, at all - Instead, the Case Fan lights turn-on normally, but there is no lighting from any of the Water Cooler parts (2 fans, and the Water Block itself). Was I wrong to assume that these could just be Daisy Chained together? Why don’t these lights run in sync with each other? (Side-note: my motherboard does not have a 5V 3 Pin ARGB header).
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I have two usb 40mm 5V fans, because their speed are too slow, i want to control their speed with usb fan speed controller with this https://www.ebay.com/itm/144136050818 i want to buy 2 of it, and plug them to my motherboard, but can them damage my motherboard? this the picture of the controller, thanks.
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Hi, Sorry if I'm being dillisional but I need to power on my cpu fan and I can't use my pcs because my cooler is already on their and can't be bothered and found a connector which is similar which is 5v with metal prongs will this work? I just need to check the fan.
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Hello guys, I'm trying to do the "opposite". I have a 12v fan with PWM and a board with a fan header of 5v+PWM. The board also has a separate 12v pin somewhere else (not a fan header and no PWM here). My idea would be to draw the power from the 12v side and the PWM+TACH from the 5v side but I'm not sure if the PWM from the 5v side would work on 12v. Can anyone confirm that? Thank you
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Hey peeps, so many of u may find this to be a dumb question. every brand out there has more or less, proprietary RGB lines. Naturally they go into a controller. Then it sucks up a usb2 header, sata power, plus usually a BS PWM header. Oh, right, typically a aRGB header too (or adapter depending on MOBO). uh, let’s clean up that mess? I’ve noticed multiple controllers, different brands, yada yada, all want their *own* app installed. Naturally this creates problems. NOT knocking any specific brand but, come on. Lian li for example has L connect. iCue, Corsair, aura sync for asus, dragon center for msi. Uhm, we have all been there, all these apps want to fight for RGB control so they conflict. ive noticed on a lot of my stuff itll typically come with an an adapter to connect directly to an aRGB header. Sweet! Well, buns, I only have 2 headers… oh right, get a splitter, pfft. question is, where can I find the adapter cables from X to aRGB? Is there one that is used most common across multiple manufacturers? I’m using a bysksyi (spelling) distro plate, alphacool gpu block, ekwb monoblock, so you can see the problem. better yet, why can’t I just take some wire strippers and splice on a aRGB? I notice the ground line (data? Whatever) of the 3 is striped or otherwise obvious. just wondering, cause I’m sure a lot of other folks out there are sick of having 5 controllers and five individual apps for each brand - all fighting for control. Yes an exaggeration, true none the less. any ideas? Possible “rigging” people have done to make RGB “easier”? thanks everyone!
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Is there any easy way to step the voltage of an EPS 12V connecter down to 5V? I have a Razer Core X that I have added custom LED lighting to, and I want to convert my Core to be RGB. I was able to add the LED lights because they already operate on 12V so there is no problem just sipping a little bit of power off of of one of the 8pin connecters. The problem is that the microcontroller that I want to use to create my own custom RGB controller operates on 5V logic. How can I convert an EPS 12V connecter to 5V so I can connect my custom controller?
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Hi guys, I hope you're all doing well. I'm a bit desperate to be honest. I recently bought a cooler master AIO. (Ml240r RGB) It's all working fine accept the RGB. That's giving me a bit of a headache. Unfortunately the manual is really bad on that part. So long story (not so) short, what I don't understand is: The hub is connected to the motherboard via an USB header und the Addressable RGB Gen 2 header (5v). That's the first thing I don't understand. Why are there two connections to the MB? The next thing is the above mentioned RGB header. It says addressable. But how do I address/ control the actual RGB? I actually can do it via the cooler master "master plus" app. But that's not what I want to use. But I can't find a different solution at the moment. I originally wanted to integrate the aio to my Armoury crate/ aura sync. According to the packaging that should work. But my Armoury crate doesn't even list the aio and the related fans. That's probably because I'm supposed to use the 12v aura headers on my mb for that. But then I'm afraid that this will fry the RGB on the aio. Or is the CoolerMaster hub also a converter? I'm sorry guys but this RGB stuff is soo confusing. I really really hope you can help me. Thank you so much in advance. Cheers, Fabio
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Without the heat sink armor on, RGB on the IO shield will not work. Is there any work around store get the IO shield to work without heat sink armor. Also it is a strange 4 pin header on the motherboard. I added a picture of the header and the back of the heat sink armor. It seems to be 5v.
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Good day, Sorry if this has already been answered somewhere on here but I searched and couldn't find anything. I have a variety of Noctua fans in my PC. I've just found out that plugging in 5V PWM fans into regular PWM mobo headers could damage the fans but I have had two NF-A20 PWM 5V fans plugged into PWM motherboard for some months now, controlling them with ASUS AI Suite and they seem to work fine. I understand that standard fan headers are 12V. I understand that PWM fans vary voltage to control the RPM. I understand that ASUS AI Suite (that came with my RoG X470-F mobo) 'senses' what the fans can do and operates them appropriately. In my mobo manual, all these headers are said to be 1A, 12W. Can anyone please advise me if I am causing any lasting damage to my motherboard or is it just the fans? What will happen if I don't disconnect them? Thank you
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So I'm trying to power a 12V LCD driver (needs about 12W or 1A) from a USB power supply using a step up converter. The problem is I'm only getting about 180mA on the 12V side (which means the LCD driver is stuck in a boot-loop as long as it hasn't enough power), so the USB PSU isn't delivering all its power. Is there any magical way to trigger the PSU to deliver 2A? And yes, I already shorted the data pins.
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Hi i just have a quick question on power supply voltages, it's just out of interest. In the picture i've attached i know the formula is (watts = volts x amps). For the +12V Rail in the picture doing volts x amps gives you the correct number. (+12V rail, 83.3 x 12 = 1000w (ruffly, 999.6w to be precise)) But when you get to the 3.3v and 5v rail the wattage is combined. How is this number calculated because doing (3.3 x 25 = 82.5) + (5 x 25 = 125) = 207.5, this can't be correct since it shows 150W. So my question is, how is this number (150W) calculated?
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Hey guys i had a question and wanted to see some recomendations. Im currently running a Hue+ lighting system (RGB) on my case yet i also want to incorperate some UV lighting as well since i have the ability to turn on and off the lighting through the software at will. Here is where my question comes in, i am looking for some 5 volt UV led strips that i can daisy chain off my Hue+. Any suggestions??? Here are the end connections on the Hue+ in case you are not familiar. Thanks!!!!
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Just a quick question about electronics. Why, when plugging in a 5V DC PSU, like one used to charge phones, are you not wasting 115 of the 120v that is in the wall. I understand electricity a bit, I just can't wrap my head around where all that voltage/current goes. I do realize that of course, some waste comes from heat generated from resistors and what not, but this is true of stepping down from any voltage. -
So, I’ve been at this for two days now, and I have no idea what else to do. For starters, I recently bought all these parts (pcpartpicker link to the build), and immediately noticed the voltage on the +5V in the bios was stuck at 6.9 volts. I honestly have no idea what I’m doing when it comes to more advanced mobo things, so I took to the internet; what was suggested was for me to check the psu, I changed this pc’s psu with my other pc, same result, reset the cpu, clean and reapply thermal paste to the cpu/heat sink, same result, change the battery on the mobo, same result, flash/update the bios, and I tried reapplying all the modular cables from the psu to their appropriate positions on the mobo. Nothing seems to fix it, by chance is it a faulty motherboard or a screwy cpu? build: CPU: amd ryzen 7 2700x GPU: sapphire Radeon rx 5700 Mobo: Asus ROG b450-f gaming Bios used to update/flash: Asus 2901
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I plan on making a build using Deepcool Argb fans and a few Argb lighting strips. My mobo only has one addressable (3 pin) rgb header and i was wondering if it would be crazy to daisy-chain all of them to that one header or if that is way to much. if it is way too much, could you give me a reasonable estimate on the max amount I can put on that single header or if you know of a product that can solve this problem? Thanks in advance.
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I just recently purchased the MSI Z390-A Pro and when setting everything up I quickly realized it doesn’t have any 5V addressable RGB headers on the board. Looking around on PCPartPicker I came across the Gaming Edge which has RGB on it but I can’t find any specs that indicate it supports addressable RGB. I’m fine with my case fans being adjustable from the case but I also have RGB ram and a RGB CPU cooler coming in. I’d like everything to be synced up. I just ordered an ARGB 12V to 5V convertor but it doesn’t support anything aside from static lights. Which is fine for now but I was looking forward to syncing everything up with MSI Mystic/Razer Chroma. If not can someone please point me towards a MB in the ~$200 range that would support it? I have an i5-8400 so I’m looking for a Coffee Lake LGA 1151 board. Preferably ATX. -
So I'm building a pc for my housemates little brother. Today the powersupply arrived and i got everything running. While troubleshooting a possibly dead x16 slot i ran into something weird. When i shut down the computer and turned off the powersupply the fans kept spinning. I unplug the powersupply, they continued running. I switch the fancontroller to 12V, they stop. Turn it back to 5V, they start up again. I'm a bit baffled at this point and go over everything. The only other thing connected to the pc is the vga cable running to a monitor. I unplug that, fans stop spinning, plug it back in, they start up again. After a bit of wiki reading i find out there is a 5V pin in a vga connector, but the spec says it's there to power some chip in the monitor. I guess i found out it goes both ways and my mainboard just passes through 5V from the vga to the entire system (the fans run off a controller plugged into SATA power). Has anyone encountered this before? Is there any way to fix it or should i just not care because the system will be running dedicated graphics anyway and the problem only appears when plugged into the onboard graphics. Mainboard is some Acer OEM board with an i5 650, PSU is a Chieftec APS-450S. -
Dear god is there any product that can adapt 4 3 pin fans into a single 5v molex connection?
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Noctua has introduced 2 new 5v fans to its line up after they have introduce their 40mm model about 18 months ago. These new 60mm models are the NF A6x25 5v and A6x25 5V PWM. The non-PWM will run at a fix rpm of 3,000 and the PWM model for various speed control. Both of them feature's Noctua's proprietary Advanced Acoustic Optimization technology, Flow Acceleration Channels, Stepped Inlet Design, and Inner Surface Microstructure. Noctua has also included their OmniJoinTM Adaptor Set, allowing proprietary fan connection, and a integrated diode for polarity protection. in case if the users accidentally connect it with reverse polarity. With a demand among DIYers and industrial partners, these fans are a great replacement since they provide much quiet operation, compare to the stock ones, such as their 40mm model, used in DVR's, network switches, and NAS. Both fans comes with a 6 year warranty and price is 14.90 EUR / $17.90 USD. http://www.techpowerup.com/222420/noctua-expands-its-5v-fan-lineup http://noctua.at/en/nf-a6x25-5v http://noctua.at/en/nf-a6x25-5v-pwm
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I bought a couple of cheap 2TB Seagate drives which I am planning to mirror data between. These drives use a UK 230V transformer to produce a 12V DC feed for the hard drive (Presumably the motor) but I was wondering if anyone knew where to pickup some good USB 5V to 12V adapters. I have seen some generic ones which simply have a 12V cable sticking out ready for any connection you want but I would rather find one with one of those low voltage round pin cables already attached. I've seen one like this from China but they don't ship to the UK and I would rather avoid China if possible.
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Hai -- Background info, you can skip this to get straight to the question.. -- First of I'd like to point out that I'm sort of a noise 'freak' and want my PC to be really silent, especially when I'm not gaming. So I switched out a lot of components (case, psu, cpu-cooler, hdd -> ssd) just for making it more silent which worked great. (see profile for specs). When I upgraded to an MSI GTX 970 Gaming and overclocked it, I had issues with the noise it produced compared to my Gigabyte GTX 670 OC. It was even thermal throttling at the fanspeed that resembled the noise of the 670 (I always set a custom fan-profile in MSI Afterburner and keep thermal limit to max 79°C). So I started to look around on the web and found this interesting review about fan placement in a Define R3. That made it clear that it was probably just my front fan that was too far away while running at the quiet 5V speed. So I mounted the front intake-fan to the side as an intake, which worked absolute wonders for the temperatures (45% gpu fanspeed and thermal throttling turned into 45% and 72-75°C over long periods at 1500Mhz). But it introduced a new problem (*sigh*).. I learned about air vibration and the horrible whining noise it makes against the honeycomb grill of the Define R5. Tested some things and one solution turned out to be mounting it on the outside of my case. It worked really well actually, the whining noise was gone and temps were still rock solid. After that I was looking for a solution to get that fan on the inside without losing those great temperatures. So I bought myself a silent Noctua NF-A14 ULN fan. Turns out this Noctua fan isn't all that quiet when you actually install it, because it reacts worse to grills and dust-filters right next to it (not a whining noise but a very noticable noise), even with the ULN adapter. I felt like it was producing a bunch more airflow than my Define R5 casefans (GP-14) on 5V and thought it was probably because of that. So I connected the Noctua fan with the fan controller of the R5, The fan didn't start on 5V and 7V without giving it a small swing with the finger to get it going. It started immediately of course with 12V. It did however keep running at 5V once it spinned. Took my sidepanel and put the fan against the grill.. and Whoop whoop, no noise and no whining on the inside of the case! Hooray! well almost. I now have to put my Fancontroller on 12V everytime I start my PC now. That's where the question comes in: Does anyone know a stable solution or fan controller that can kickstart (12V) the fan when the pc turns on and then goes to 5V? -- TLDR: Question -- So because the Noctua NF-A14 ULN fan does not start at 5V, I'd like to get a solution to kick-start that fan at 12V for a second and then go to 5V for the rest of the time. Does anyone know of a Fan Controller that can start the fan(s) at 12V for a brief moment before going to 5V? Thanks
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I want to take a molex extension cable and mod it to do only 5v. As far as my understanding goes all I have to do is switch the 12v wire with the 5v wire and cover or remove the 12v wire, but do I also need to remove one of the ground wires? Also I plan on daisy chaining 3 fans onto this so will this be safe? Here's a diagram to help explain what I want to do: Regular molex = (12v - G - G - 5v) 5v Molex mod = (5v - G - G - X) The fans I'm using are 120mm CM Red LED Sickleflow's Thanks
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Using ASUS AI Suite II, even with as many people that thing it sucks cuz of previous versions, i have found the newer version works for me. read my pc specs below. while on youtube, google+, or gamming, i been getting random warnings that either 3V or 5V or 12V is either High or Low. My system has ran with ASUS AI suite solid and problem free, its only recently that this has occurred. would this be a problem with my PSU starting to fail?
