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  1. After years of struggling with my prebuilt ROG G20 and a week of watching Linus and others, I decided to build a PC that could handle anything I could throw at it. I built this back in September and only now thought about posting it; hence a bit of dust can be seen in the picture. My only struggle with this build was with the RGB controllers, but I got them working after a few minutes. I use it primarily for editing and gaming; I never really encountered any problems with it, so I think I did a good enough job. The GPU's vertical orientation does heat up much more than the traditional horizontal position, but the temps are still tolerable. Since this is my first build and I don't have PC enthusiast friends to critique my work, I thought I'd ask you guys for some pointers, so I am open to suggestions! https://pcpartpicker.com/b/QNQqqs Specs: CPU: Intel i7 9700k GPU: Galax 2080 Ti OC Mother Board: Asus ROG Strix Z390-F RAM: 2x Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB 3000mhz PSU: NZXT E850 SSD: WD Black SN750 1TB w/heat-sink HDD: WD Black 2TB Case: NZXT H510 ELITE AIO: NZXT Kraken X62 Fans: 3x Aer RGB 2 140mm and 1x Aer RGB 2 120mm Here are some pictures, sorry for the dust
  2. Well, this was a fun one! So many of my builds are purpose driven. I just wanted something that was overkill fun. I do have a backup M.2 set aside for this PC with all my main PC apps as a backup, just in case, but this IS the fun machine. My last run-in with Intel HEDT was X79. Aside from tweaking after building it, I used it strictly as a workhorse. You'll notice some changing hardware in the pics. While I was waiting for water cooling parts, I was using an EVGA X299 Micro 2 and varying GPUs from an RX580 to a 2070 Super. The CLC was the EVGA CLC 360. Good cooler and cheaper than most others, but the fans are horrendously loud. Things I liked about the build: More firsts – I tried to incorporate more firsts into this build. It is my first parallel loop, my first time using quick disconnects, and my first time de-lidding a CPU myself. My 8700K was, but I only popped it open. My friend applied the liquid metal. This time I did everything. I did it a few times since I replaced the IHS with a custom BartX flat IHS. I did not want to ruin the original one by lapping. The MO-RA3 – This thing caught my attention long before I got into water cooling. I saw it one a loooong time ago, but again most recently in a Gamers Nexus video/live stream. I knew if I ever got into water cooling, I was going to use one. I waited months before starting this project to get one in stainless, they were out of stock for quite some time. As crazy a sight as it is, it’s still less fans than the 17 in Chisai. The Redux fans were an aesthetic choice. The MO-RA3 fins are less dense than a traditional radiator. This allows you to have plenty of airflow even at lower RPMs. Darkness – What do you see just about everyone using to overclock X299 CPUs? The EVGA X299 Dark. The thing is utterly purpose build, has almost everything you need and nothing you don’t (I’m looking at you RGB!). I’m not often influenced by Youtubers, but I really wanted to check it out after seeing it so often. A Just Because Build – Besides serving as a backup in case Chīsai, my 3970X system, goes down (or needs loop maintenance longer than anticipated), this was just something I wanted to build to explore overclocking and overkill water cooling. There was no more rhyme or reason. This was totally a system of wants. I wanted an 18 core Intel CPU, I wanted to de-lid, I wanted to use a nickel Heatkiller IV block, I wanted to use a MO-RA3 420 Pro, I wanted the Streacom BC1 and I wanted to have some fun. Ryzen and Threadripper are wonderful. They shred through any task I give them, but we can’t pretend there’s any fun to be had in the OC dept. It is too good at already being good. This was probably the first-worldiest paragraph I’ve ever written; I realize that. Challenges: Watercool Modularity – As much as I love how modular Watercool stuff is, this makes it challenging to make sure you have (and can get) everything you need in one shot. Everything for the MO-RA3 is options. The grill, the reservoir mount, the feet… it is all accessories. The same goes for the tube reservoir. This makes everything highly customizable, but it also meant that it is easy to forget a piece of the puzzle or having to order for multiple different places. I had a hard time tracking down the mounting kit for the reservoir and the feet for the MO-RA3. Things I personally think should have been included but do understand that not everyone will use them. Would have been nice to get everything in one shot and not over the course of a month due to availability. Minor gripes individually, but together it made for one large headache. Left in the Dark – The X299 Dark, despite being an overclocking focused board is missing one feature that drove me insane. The ability to revert to the last safe state, or just booting into the BIOS with safe settings. You only need to slip up a tiny bit with memory overclocking to get into a non-POSTing state. The ability to make profile is great, but a safe boot to BIOS would have been a welcome addition. (Oh, and the BIOS battery arrived dead and the chipset fan unplugged). The Vaporware 10980XE – Originally, I wanted to build this using the Cascade Lake X 10980XE, buuuuuuut Intel only pretended to launch it. This is where the name Cascading Moonlight comes from. It was good this never came to pass though. That would have meant no de-lidding. So once the MO-RA3 was finally a thing, I found a 7980XE for “cheap” and went with that instead. Overclocking & Temps – Didn’t win the lottery here. I ended up a 4.7GHz @ 1.22V on the 7980XE. Max temps during Cinbench runs is around 85C on the hottest core. According to my UPS, total system draw was 657 watts. CB20: 1120 As for GPU, I can push it to 2160MHz with the regular BIOS. Anything but Furmark has yet to get GPU only tasks past 40C. Furmark managed 43 max after an hour, but never stayed there longer than a few seconds before dropping back down to 40. Have not tried modified ones yet. I did flash the Matrix BIOS, but it was not stable at all. Gaming – (I really only play modded GTA V) CPU: 58C max on the hottest core. GPU: 2160MHz, 8100MHz memory, 40C max temp. Planned changes and considerations: QDs for the GPU – There were not enough QDs in stock for what I wanted to accomplish. When I get more down the line, I will swap out the torque fittings for the QD3s. I can still easily remove the GPU from the system, so it is not super impactful right now. Conclusion: This being my third loop in under 6 months really underscores how addictive the hobby is. My fear of leaks has all but disappeared with experience. The quality of parts now vs. years ago is at a level where the main source of leaks is on the builder. There are exceptions for sure. I had a shredded O-ring in a rotary fitting when I was building Chīsai, but leak testing right from the start brought this to light before it was ever a problem. Above all else, the water cooling community is very quick to share help and experience. I owe a lot of the success of my last two loops to the r/watercooling discord server and some other experienced friends. P.S. – The GamersNexus Modmat is awesome… get one. The one I have is the medium version. PC Parts: Intel Core i9-7980XE 2.6 GHz 18-Core Processor Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut 1 g Thermal Paste Noctua NT-H2 3.5 g Thermal Paste EVGA X299 DARK EATX LGA2066 Motherboard G.Skill Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory 2x Western Digital SN750 500 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive Storag Asus GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB ROG Strix Streacom BC1 ATX Test Bench Case Corsair AX1600i 80+ Titanium ATX Power Supply Asus XG-C100C PCIe x4 10GBe 9x Noctua NF-P14s redux-1200 PWM Asus PG279Q ROG Swift 27.0" 2560x1440 165 Hz Monitor Logitech MX MASTER 2S (Black) Wireless Laser Mouse Watercooling Parts: EK-Tube ZMT Matte Black 15,9/9,5mm 3m EK Ball Valve (10mm) G14 - Black Watercool HEATKILLER® Tube 200 D5 CableMod PRO ModMesh Cable Kit - Black Watercool HEATKILLER® Tube - Stuts 200mm - Raw Aluminum EKWB EK-D5 PWM G2 Pump 4x EKWB EK-Torque STC-10/16 Compression Fitting, 10/16mm (3/8" ID, 5/8" OD), Nickel EK-AF Extender 20mm M-F G1/4 - Black HEATKILLER IV GPU Water Block for ASUS RTX 2080 Ti Strix, Nickel 4x Koolance QD3-FSG4 QD3 Female Quick Disconnect No-Spill Coupling, Male Threaded G 1/4 BSPP 6x Koolance QD3 Male Quick Disconnect No-Spill Coupling, Panel Barb for ID 10mm (3/8in) 2x Koolance QD3 Female Quick Disconnect No-Spill Coupling, Panel Barb for ID 10mm (3/8in) EK-Quantum Magnitude - 20xx Full Nickel EK-Quantum Magnitude Coldplate - Flat Nickel MO-RA3 420 PRO Stainless Steel
  3. Budget (including currency): $5,000 - $6,000 AUD Country: Australia Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Rainbow Six Siege, Call of Duty, Rust, Halo, League of Legends, OBS, Game Overlays (eg. Overwolf), Sony Vegas, Adobe Premier, Ableton Live 10 My goal here is to avoid major bottle-necking as much as I can, while also just affirming with the community here that the parts I have picked out are compatible with each other. I've been double, triple, and quadruple checking compatibilities of every part, and I'm fairly confident in all of the parts except for the mobo, CPU, and GPU (since this is my first time moving to an AMD processor and also my first time moving to an Nvidia GPU). I'm just really trying to get this build right the first time, to avoid any incompatibility issues or major bottle-necking dilemmas since, as I said, this is my first time moving to AMD processor and Nvidia GPU. Also, with this build, is it worth going 3600MHz Memory, or just buy some 3200MHz Memory instead? CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 3900X GPU: MSI GeForce RTX 2080 Ti Ventus GP OC 11GB Mobo: ASUS Prime X570-P CSM Edit: For anyone wondering what RAM and CPU Cooler I have already picked out RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 32GB (2x16GB) 3600MHz CL18 DDR4 CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12A 120mm
  4. Need a GPU for a CAD teacher's future workstation. Will be doing low to intermediate levels of CAD projects, and wants to dabble with Unreal Engine 4 a lot more soon. Rendering times are to be as low as possible. My current GPU budget is $1000-1200. (If I go with an R9 3900X, $1200, if I go with an R9 3950X, $1000. (I also need to know if I should go with an 3950X, I can see the benefit, and 2nd gen TR is prob not a good idea atm, but does the boost a 3950x gives outweigh the cost for my budget?) https://pcpartpicker.com/user/nathanpete/saved/#view=cjpW3C Also wants to do a little AAA gaming, but u can still game on a Quadro if gaming isn't the primary purpose. Basically: Do I still need a quadro for non-super complex CAD and UE4 in today's world? I know the 2080ti will still render hella fast, but are there Quadro's under $1200 that would do it better/faster?
  5. I have a conundrum. I'm still a long way off before I purchase these components (I won't be hired until the pandemic is over), but I'm still wavering between the cost and benefits of upgrading to a higher-end graphics card. Some background on my goals; I'm currently planning my next build which will be an upgrade from a prebuilt Acer Predator with an i7, GTX 1070, and 32 GB of RAM. My budget is below $1900. I'm not physically monetarily constrained, but psychologically. I really, really don't want to go past $18 or $19 hundred. Regarding gaming... I'm obsessive... not to the point of full OCD, but I am super agitated when I can't get the best version of something. I run a 144 Hz Acer Predator TN-panel that I run using the low-latency 120 Hz option and I primarily play FPS and action games. For sound, I use a pair of 2016 Astro A50s which make me want to murder those who talked me into buying them. TL;DR - Build Goals: $$$ = below $1900 Performance = Superior Games = FPS and Action My conundrum comes in that I can't decide whether to get a "tricked-out" 2070 SUPER system with superior storage and airflow, or a 2080 Ti system that I can upgrade, later on. 2070S system: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/kvpg4n 2080 Ti system: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/8vFZHB Side notes: I have already purchased a Gold+ 750 watt power supply. I'd like to keep the storage amount the same (i.e. 1 TB SSD, 2 TB physical). Case stays. I chose the board due to its high ranking on the LTT forum list and its decent price. I would not be willing to downgrade the board's chipset (570 to 470) as that would mean I'd need to spend more in upgrading in a few years. I am terribly addicted to getting the best performance. I get hives (jokingly) from choosing budget options, but I do take them if the argument is sound. Which is the crux of the issue: I can get sub-par components... but the frames... I want the frames...
  6. This is my second official PC build and I love it! I've learned quite a bit since my novice days back in 2015, and with Lian LI's O11 Dynamic Razor edition case readily available and AMD knocking it out of the park with their Gen 3 series CPUs, everything just came together perfectly. SSDs are not included in the build parts list since I just transferred them from my old build and updated drivers for the new hardware. I create/analyze energy models for my engineering job and am also a huge PC gamer so it's nice to have a rig that can kick butt at both. This Build; https://pcpartpicker.com/b/cVtgXL Previous build; i5-6600K and a 980Ti (https://pcpartpicker.com/b/WFvV3C).
  7. Hey guys! My PC is currently running an Nvidia GTX 1080, an i7 7700k overclocked to 4.8ghz on an MSI Z270 M5. I am looking to upgrade this. The obvious upgrade is to change that GTX 1080 for a GTX 2080 Ti, but I was curious if it would also be worth the money to swap that i7 7700k for an i9 9900k based on the upgrade I would get. Let me know! Thanks guys!
  8. Hey guys, I'm currently planning to do a custom loop in the lian li o-11 with corsair hydro x series and im bumped into some questions. does anyone know if the corsair gpu block for strix 2080ti will fit in the lian li o-11 dynamic or will I have to go vertical? Lian li's website doesnt show any info about the compatibility for the corsair gpu block, and corsair's page doesnt show anything about the block's dimensions
  9. Hello guys, this is my current part list (I am from Germany): PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 9 3950X 3.5 GHz 16-Core Processor €792.99 @ Amazon Deutschland Motherboard Gigabyte X570 AORUS XTREME EATX AM4 Motherboard €762.69 @ Mindfactory Memory Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory €379.90 @ Alza Storage Sabrent Rocket 2 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive €299.94 @ Amazon Deutschland Storage Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive €63.36 @ Mindfactory Video Card Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB AORUS XTREME WATERFORCE Video Card €1406.00 Case Fractal Design Define S ATX Mid Tower Case €83.04 @ Amazon Deutschland Power Supply be quiet! Straight Power 11 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply €191.89 @ Alternate Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total €3979.81 Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-01-21 19:34 CET+0100 I am planning a custom water cooling loop and estimated the following: 50€ CPU Plate 15€ Flexible Tubes 77€ Radiator 360 45€ 8x Fittings 60€ Reservoir and pump Any suggestions? I felt like asking the experts! Greetings and much appreciation Alex
  10. As the title says...which is the better card among these 2 and why?
  11. Hey everyone, I'm having dual monitor setup issues and I've just had it. I miss my convenience with two monitors and had put up with it for atleast 5 months now. To save some trouble I'll copy pasta my computer specs, my two monitors in full detail, what I am experiencing for difficulties and what I have done for them. Computer Specifications. CENTRAL PROCESSING UNIT - AMD RYZEN 9 3900X - BASE CLOCK 3.8GHz GRAPHICS PROCESSING UNIT - NIVIDIA GEFORCE RTX GIGABYTE AORUS 2080TI - 11GB DEDICATED MEMORY - 1700 CLOCK SPEED RANDOM ACCESS MEMORY - G.SKILL TRIDENT NEO - 2x16GB - 3600 CLOCK SPEED DELL S-SERIES 27IN LED-LIT (S2719DGF) QHD 2560x1440 155Hz GAMING MONITOR MOTHER BOARD - REPUBLIC OF GAMERS STRIX X570-E GAMING MOTHER BOARD. CUSTOM WATER COOLING EKWB ASUS VS247H-P 23.6" Full HD 1920x1080 2ms HDMI DVI VGA Monitor As you can tell my main display is the DELL S-SERIES S2719DGF with a display port cable as my main setup. Then when I try and plug my secondary monitor, the ASUS VS247H-P into my GPU, my computer doesn't detect it for some odd reason. I have done my own troubleshooting but maybe I'm dumb as hell and/or maybe I'm missing something crucial. To be clear my Dell monitor has a DP cable and my ASUS has a HDMI cable. MY GPU has 4 DP inputs (if that's what I call those plugins) and 3 HDMI inputs. I have plugged both in at the same time and went to my display settings and hit the detect button with nothing promising. I then just went ahead to the start menu and hit restart. Computer restarts and the ASUS monitor has taken over everything! What I mean by that is the ASUS has now been detected but is being used as my primary monitor and my DELL monitor is no longer detected...?! I have repeated this process many times and have even shut off my computer doing so to plug in each one at different times and at the same time. Please send help.
  12. Hello everyone and anyone, I'm in need of some technical help... with cyber monday quickly approaching I figured it was either now or never to get myself a solid GPU. I'm well aware that Nvidia's 2080-ti is the top choice for most, I have a pretty solid system but have no GPU, and I don't want to bottleneck anything. I have an i9-9900k on a ASUS XI CODE MOBO, with 64GB of 3200MHz Speed RAM, and a solid PSU, with ample cooling. I want to be able to game in 4k at top specs for most games, but I don't want to spend too much on a GPU, I really like the 2070 Super, and 2080 Super from Nvidia, (either from Nvidia or ASUS) for both price, and performance... if I were to get a 2080 ti though... I was looking at the ASUS ROG STRIX GeForce RTX 2080-TI Overclocked 11G GDDR6, or just the Nvidia Model. What do y'all think? Also, as far as upgradeability goes... I can't seem to find much info on pairing 2 2080 Super cards together through SLI, or Nvidia Bridge... I've seen examples with the 2070 Super, but not the 2080 Super. My guess as to why that is, is that at that point your probably just better off getting a 2080 ti at that point right? My reasoning for considering the 2080 Super is that it's like 700-800 dollars, and later I could get another one for sli. Lastly... I just want to have a good experience for my viewers on twitch. Do y'all even think SLI does anything different? Or should I just bite the bullet and get a 2080 ti. I would really appreciate any and all opinions you have on my considerations for GPU's above. Thanks!
  13. Hello Guys i have a problem. I am currently building on my new pc and my graphics card neither shows up in the bios nor in the device manager in windows. I have tried both pcie x 16 slots and changed the power supply cable and the slot on the psu but it won‘t change anything. I‘m desperate for help. thanks UselessSuperhero
  14. I won a gaming pc giveaway and i'm wondering if I need a better PSU if I wanna upgrade to an i9-9900k and a RTX 2080 Ti. The specs are: Intel i7-9700k DDR4 3200MHz G.Skill Trident Z RGB 16GB Asus ROG Strix RTX 2080 8GB OC Edition Western Digital 1TB 7200RPM Deepcool Captain 240 Pro RGB 6 Corsair LL120 RGB LED Fans Asus ROG Strix Z390-E Gaming Motherboard Seasonic Focus Plus 850W Gold If you ever wanted to know why I entered a gaming pc giveaway in the first place this is why. My old pc specs: Intel Core 2 Duo E4500 2.2GHz (10 year old CPU) Zotac GeForce GT 730 4GB of DDR1 Ram (Brand and model unknown) (Motherboard unknown) 250W Bestec PSU (That's all that's known about it for me) (CPU cooler unknown) (Case unknown) Prebuilt brand and name: Dell Vostro 200 (Year unknown)
  15. So I currently have a 3 slot thick RTX 2080 from EVGA and I want to upgrade by adding in a 2080Ti and putting em in NV Link. The Issue is I only have 2 slots for the new GPU... So my question is: should I put an aircooled 2080Ti right above the 2080 blowing hot air onto it or should I sacrifice overall airflow and add in a water cooled 2080Ti?
  16. So my GPU was running fine for about a year, or at least it seems. I am unsure exactly when performance dropped significantly. I benched and OC'ed it when I got it and it ran as expected, but I have been running it and my CPU without OC for most of the time (too many other problems going on). I was playing Division 2 at 1440p max settings in HDR, and only getting around 60fps (have a 144hz monitor). That seemed out of place, so I ran Superposition with 1080p extreme and only got a 4600 score. I believe my original scores were 8000+, and others with the same card have gotten 120fps averages in Division 2 with the same settings. Superposition shows 1600-1700mhz clocks while running. Got a 2080 Ti Fe with a waterblock and custom loop triple rad, also cooling a mobo monoblock, running on a DDC pump. The GPU is vertical mounted with a riser cable, and custom wired with cables I made myself. I've fresh re-installed drivers, nothing physically has changed inside the PC prior to the dropped performance. The temps immediately rise up to and max out at 57C, idle at 28C. I've set MSI Afterburner to reset to default. I've called my PC Sisyphus cause of all the problems I've run into with it, pushing areas I don't have much experience on. I'm at a loss as to what has caused this issue, or where to take the diagnosis process next. I'm planning on taking the whole thing apart, but that's a pain and I hope it's something more easy to fix. Could the riser cable go bad? Could the wiring not be supplying enough power? Could the thermal pads somehow have shifted on the GPU waterblock, or a VRM/something have fried? I don't even know how to check any of these things apart from taking everything apart.
  17. ZOTAC GeForce RTX 2080 Ti vs ASUS Dual GeForce RTX 2080 Ti ? Is there really a big difference between having 2 fans and 3?
  18. Hi. i am thinking about passive water cooling for CPU+GPU ( i7-9700k + RTX 2080 ti ) estimate overclocked heat load around 600 watt.I thought about getting a big (40 liter) water tank.The idea is, that the large amount of water will be able to absorb the heat from my CPU and GPU and the large tank would be able to dissipate the heat from the water.How much water do I need if I want under 50c for both my overclock CPU and GPU ?ANYONE Tried It? How big water tank do i need ?Is possible it works ?if anyone can make , test please..the positive side is silent PC and cheaper custom loop
  19. So...I've seen quite a bit of trashy stuff at my high school. I'll get to the question first: What things do people buy that's pointless/overpriced/a terrible value? Here's mine: - Hydro Flasks. All the girls have them. Not trying to be sexist, but that's just what happens at my school. I simply have the knockoff brand, "Thermo Flasks", from Costco that are the same thing for half the price. It's a two-pack for $20. - Lululemons. Seriously, those classy pants cost 3 times more than regular pants! Sure, they offer a free hemming service, or so I've been told, but you can hem for years with a spool of thread, a needle, and 30 minutes of learning how to do it. There is not much special that justifies paying 3 times as much when you can get 3 pairs of leggings for the same price. (I occasionally use leggings when running. They're just generic Nike things). - EKWB kits, 2080 Ti's, and other overpriced computer parts. Sure, they're actually awesome and really high quality, but if you want to keep your system cool, for a lower price you can get a GPU with an AIO and a CPU AIO as well. Corsair fans? Sure, they're well-built, but you shouldn't be paying $30 per fan when Arctic offers 5-packs of fans for $25. 2080 Ti's? Okay, it's not your fault if you want the fastest graphics card out there, but Nvidia really should have made a GPU without RT and tensor cores for a lower price. That would be much more popular with consumers. - Titan graphics cards. Just no... Thanks for listening to my rant. What are yours?
  20. Hey all, Been looking around for a ITX case that may fit a 2080 Ti Strix... Anyone have any suggestions? Found the Ncase m1, which is amazing.. but I am seeing other options out there... anyone have any others?
  21. https://youtu.be/IXDxZi8J0cY all the temps and clocks and speed run fine but as soon as it gets to opencl in realbench or under a heavy load it beeps constantly and loud, i notice if i turn my gpu down to 200w max and 40% fan speeds it turns of in some games but i ran cs:go perfectly fine for like an hour with everything normal temps etc. please help asus isnt doing much for me! they said its my rgb strip but i only had lighting issues after they told me to clear the cmos and update the bios and after i did now the q led on the mb doesn't light up and it wont sync to the software but it boots and runs fine besides the beeping what do i do ha? Update: I reset the PC with windows and unplugged the two front rgb strips everything is synced up correctly now except the main issue which was the beeping under load persists and my build lost two rgb strips but i just want it to run properly at this point its been a long 5 days troubleshooting everything .... ive attached a video of what happens when my computer starts to beep running Evga's Precision x1 test & scan please help if possible Asus maximus xi hero,i7 9700k, m.2 970 pro 512gb m.2 970 evo 1tbg.skill trident z rgb 16x2 3000mhz,rosewill rgb aio,Evga 750w g3 supernova,Evga 2080ti xc2 ultra,Rosewill Prism s500 case.
  22. Hey , I hope u can help me with this. - ZOTAC GAMING GeForce RTX 2080 Ti AMP Extreme - ASUS ROG Strix Z370-E Gaming LGA1151 MBoard - Ryzen 9 3900X processor + AMD Wraith Prism LED RGB Cooler - AORUS RGB AIC NVMe SSD 1TB x7 - G.SKILL Trident Z DDR4 32x4 Can this Rig run 7 gamers at the same time with 1080HD 40FPS? most important how to plug every gamer's mouse and keyboard? cus am so confused.
  23. So I've overclocked both my CPU and RTX 2080 ti Strix to a level where I feel they hold without making my rig take off. However, I'm limited to only a 750W power supply, which means I'm afraid the wattage is gonna hit past that if there's any workload that uses both the CPU and GPU at the same time. I have a wattage-meter so I can see the drainage from the wall socket, but the biggest problem is that I don't have any stress tests that test the CPU and GPU at the same time. I use Intel's overclocking manager and the Asus GPU tweak II. So far, if I put my CPU at 4.0 and cache to 2.8 and stress test it, the meter shows around 500-600w, but I guess that's only for the processor. When I play a game like Metro Exodus with everything on highest, RTX on ultra and in 4K DLSS mode, I hit around 530w with the processor only at 30%. I would imagine that if the processor went up to 100% and the GPU also around 100%, that would seriously max out beyond my 750w. Question is, will it ever do that? Is there ever an occasion where both the GPU and CPU works at the same time at 100%? It seems that every task is either using the GPU or CPU primarily, but never both. Question is, how high can I go on my current rig? Theoretically, that is. At the moment, I've only dared to set my CPU at 4.0 clock and cache to 2.8, while my 2080 ti is set to: 1750 clock Nothing added on the memory clock Fans to 45 Power level to 120 Metro crashes if I go higher. I tried setting the 2080 ti to 1800 clock, but that crashed it even more times. I've read however that Metro seems to crash because of overclocking, so I'm not sure if it does so because my overclock fails or is unstable or if the game doesn't work with overclocking. When I looked at JayzTwoCents's overclock of the Strix 2080 ti, he just blasted it up to 1800 core clock, maxed out memory clock, power level to 125 and fans to 100 percent and it was no biggie. He didn't touch the voltage at all, which feels safe, but wouldn't such an overclock just be a very high risk if my processor has a high wattage count when working? I also seem to see in BIOS that my RAM is set at 2800 instead of 3600 MHz and I don't know what that's about? I'm not very experienced at overclocking and I'd rather have a stable overclock than winning any overclocking contests, but since I have both a CPU and GPU that is meant for overclocking, then it's just a waste of money not to do it. But I'm not sure what is safe for my system. Temperature seems to work fine, I have a lot of Noctua fans pulling some air through the rig, and the Kraken on the CPU with two Noctua fans blowing at the radiator on the top ceiling. Need some advice here Here's my rig: intel Core i9 7960X 2.8 GHz 22MB Corsair 64GB (4x16GB) DDR4 3600MHz CL18 Seasonic FOCUS Plus 750W Gold WD Gold 10TB 7200rpm 256MB (Main big storage) 3 WD Gold 6TB 7200rpm 128MB (BIOS RAID for 4-6K footage editing and color grading) Kraken X52 (On the CPU to the radiator at the top with the two Noctua's blowing upwards) ASUS WS X299 SAGE ASUS Thunderbolt EX 3 ASUS RTX 2080 ti Strix Fractal Design Define XL R2 Black Noctua NF-A14 140mm PWM (one at the bottom, one at the rear and two in the front) Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM (two on the radiator) Windows 10 Pro Swe 64-bit OEM Samsung 970 PRO 1TB (Main boot Drive with Windows 10)
  24. I've just bought a new Asus RTX 2080 to my one-year-old system. So far I've had troubles with windows versions and so on, but re-installed windows 10 at 1903 and everything is now set up with the Strix overclocked to around 1700 MHz. Some games run smooth and some, like "Quake II RTX" at ultra everything runs at around 30 fps, which is understandable since it's a major RTX benchmark. However, I tried to play "Assassin's Creed Odyssey" at ultra everything on my 4K Samsung TV, and it stutters a lot. However, because there are som nice numbers to be seen in the options screen I can see what's going on and there doesn't seem to be a problem with the 2080 ti, but there's something going on at the CPU level. It stutters a lot in some sections like big towns etc. and the MS measurements are all over the place on the CPU graph. Can someone please tell me what's going on here and how I could fix it? Attached images of the graphs. Here's my system: intel Core i9 7960X 2.8 GHz 22MB Corsair 64GB (4x16GB) DDR4 3600MHz CL18 Seasonic FOCUS Plus 750W Gold WD Gold 10TB 7200rpm 256MB WD Gold 6TB 7200rpm 128MB Kraken X52 ASUS WS X299 SAGE ASUS Thunderbolt EX 3 Fractal Design Define XL R2 Svart Noctua NF-A14 140mm PWM (two) Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM (two on the radiator) Windows 10 Pro Swe 64-bit OEM Samsung 970 PRO 1TB
  25. Hi, I am building a rig for Deep Learning using 2× ASUS ROG Strix 2080 Ti cards and I am planning to pair them in SLI. Due to the lack of availability of the ASUS NVlink bridge in my country, I am planning to get the Zotac NVlink bridge. I was wondering would the Zotac NVlink bridge work with two ASUS RTX 2080 tis? Like will the sli connections fit and all? Has anyone tried this config before?
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