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Budget (including currency): $500-$700 Country: US Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: AAA FPS Games like COD, Games with a lot of graphic overhaul options via modding (Skyrim SE for example), and countless others I would consider 'AA' games, like Chivalry 2, Simulation Games, Older CODs, etc... Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): Here is what I currently have: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ZsL3zf , yes, my case is from 2015, and unfortunately was the only case out of 3 from around that time period I had laying around with everything still intact. When I built this in 2021 everything was way more expensive so I had to settle for the free option of using this janky Corsair artifact. The airflow of this case, and my lack of care about which screws from which of my 3 defunct cases I should use and where they should go, are what I believe are the main problems. My cooler I know is also very dingy, and when I upgraded from the stock heatsink (yes I know, I ran stock cooling for about 6 months with this build) to the aftermarket heatsink, my computer wouldn't post until I reseated the CPU about 4 times (about a year later and still have no idea what that was about). My plan was to maybe 'split' this computer and go intel, keep the GPU, RAM, and Storage for a new system and load up the 'old' (my current one) with parts I dont use anymore for maybe just a spare. I guess my main questions are: What mistakes am I making with this setup?, What should I transfer over into a new rig?, and What CPU, Mobo, etc.. I should get for the new build. The budget isn't definite, but I wouldn't pay over $200 for a MOBO, over $300 for a CPU, etc... As you can see I have about a 50% of destroying something. My hopes was for Intel I wouldn't have to worry so much about bending those darn pins (at least not the ones on the CPU lol). To this day I still think theres something 'off' about my CPU but I don't get into diagnostics very much. Right now it runs newer games at medium settings fine, and technically can do higher even max on some games, but my PC will start heating up my whole room. Oh, and water-cooling is not my jive, I'll have my PC swimming in a matter of seconds if I fool around with it.

I have been catching up with playing old popular games that I never got round to playing. Just got round to playing Assassins Cred IV: Black Flag. Anyway, now onto 2014/15 games when I was at University at the time and didn't really have time for games. So, any popular games from around this time that you can still play on PC today?

~ Watch The Conference Here ~ Wow guys just wow ! I just spent the past 3 hours stuck to my TV watching the keynote... And all I can say is, WOW ! It was boring as heck, yet I woke up when I heard Windows 10... The guy that was talking about it was funny looking with his hat. Te webernet or Internet all noticed that they were using Build 10166 of Windows 10 to demo all the features, which is a public build. Not their usual thing. They usually use an Internal build. That was a surprise. During the Windows 10 part, the guy switched 180 degrees and became a Chef and started using chef like terminologies... That was funny as heck. He kept us all interested. I liked his way of keeping things interesting. But as soon as the Windows 10 part was over and the office part started I quickly lost interest again lol :D All in all, it was a somewhat good conference. They did hint that there will be new Lumia devices coming, built just for Windows 10. Yes plural, more than one device. No ETA or any other info was given. Did you watch the conference too ? If so, what do you guys think ?

Remember when LTT did the cristmas album? At that time they weren't too big. I recently bought it and really love the tracks. Should LMG do a 2020 revision of that? I think most people would love it

Hello everyone, in April I bought a MacBook Pro 2015 on ebay, and it worked fine, until... I have an hackintosh at home, and I used on it a normal usb key, on which I loaded Ubuntu live (just extracting the ISO on it) and inserted in the MBP to start Ubuntu. What greeted me was Clover (the hackintosh's bootloader), which started MacOS and hung for a while on it. Then I turned off the laptop, to reboot it, and I just got a black screen, nothing more. The insides of the computer looked fine (I met a friend who brought the pentalobe screwdriver), though I didn't look too closely at it. The computer does charge. I tried connecting a tv via the HDMI, resetting the SMC (the orange light turned green), resetting the PRAM, logging in, sleeping it and waking it up, safe mode, recovery mode, cmd+f1, booting ubuntu from the usb key, but none of these worked. Since going to a repair shop is gonna drain me some hundred bucks, I decided to give the DIY solutions a try... Though I don't know where to start. I guess checking the voltages on the motherboard is also a good thing to do, but even though I watched some videos from Louis Rossmann I'm still a bit uncertain... Any help would be hugely appreciated, even if you know some other site that could help me or where I could ask for help... Thank you for your help, Marco

Hi, Im wondering if theres an app that can display photos/images like a screensver for my smart tv. To make it look like a picture frame. My tv uses android tv.

Thanks to LG and Seasonic for sponsoring this video! Buy the LG 34GK950G: http://bit.ly/2QIAY8M Buy on Amazon: https://geni.us/34GK850GLTT Buy Seasonic PSUs on Amazon: https://lmg.gg/8KV6P Buy Seasonic PSUs on Newegg: https://lmg.gg/8KV61 Enter LG's 27GL850 Gaming Monitor giveaway on Instagram at https://lmg.gg/8KV3c In part 1 of this series, we looked at how PC gaming evolved from 2009 through 2014 - Now, our story continues to present day. How far have we come? Watch part 1: Buy a Ryzen 7 3700X: On Amazon: https://geni.us/5oZt On Newegg: https://lmg.gg/8KV3d Buy a GeForce RTX 2080 Ti: On Amazon: https://geni.us/4OGK On Newegg: https://lmg.gg/8KV3y

Hello! I was wondering if anybody has any idea of the value of my 2015 HP Pavilion. Here are the specs of it : CPU - Intel Core i7 6500U @ 2.5GHz GPU - NVIDIA GeForce 940M (2GB of DDR3 Memory) RAM - 8 GB of DDR3L Storage - 1TB HDD OS - Windows 10 Cheers

Hello! I am resetting my 2015 HP Pavilion Laptop. The system reset to factory specs has been going for over 15 HOURS! Is this normal? Cheers if anybody knows about this.

Hi guys! I was just wondering if anyone could help. So as I'm a student I could only afford the bassline 2015 modal of the Macbook Pro which is only 256GB of storage. It is very possible to upgrade the SSD however, it used a proprietary m.2 port so only Apple SSD's fit which, as you guessed, are nearly 3x more expensive then your average Samsung or Seagate m.2 SSD. I have been looking for days and there isn't much on it. Someone did once make a convertor which converts the port into a normal m.2 but he/she they didn't have much luck with it. Might make a good tech tips video exploring the options? Or has anyone else wanted to do this and had any luck? Would love to know! Or if I'm just wrong in general. Let me know! Thanks!

Hey just wondering... Could I play games like GTA 5 at lowest textures graphics and editing textures to make them even lower on my MacBook Air (2015) (GTX 250 External Graphics) And core i5 Processer)? and help would be appreciated! Here are some pictures of my processors graphics etc.

I've been having a few issues with my XPS 13 over the last few years. The audio will get a buzzing noise (disappears if I change the bitrate or adjust the brightness of my screen a few times), the webcam just doesn't work(the LED beside the camera lights up, but I get a back screen), and now it's charging intermittently (seems to be the charger, any recommendations on where to get a good one?).

Is anyone else here dying that LG makes the UltraWide Festival an annual thing? I mean, I had a hell of a fun time entering the Cardboard Dream Setup. Best 13 hours of my life and it seriously paid off in the end. I'm just really hoping that they'll make it annual =3

My previous daily driver is still probably my favorite car. A 1994 Infiniti Q45 I affectionately named "Precious". Precious is powered by an all aluminum, dual overhead cam 4.5L V8 engine rated for 278hp and 292ft.lbs of torque. Precious is very picky about the fuel she will burn, so I had to run Chevron 94 octane which has no ethanol. I would have much preferred to buy my fuel from the Co-op, but their fuel has ethanol. My commute is 125km, round trip. So with errands and the other little stops of life, that puts me well into 3000km a month. Precious, on a good day would net around 13.5L/100km, couple that with premium fuel and I was looking at a fuel bill of around $600/month. Being an Infiniti, parts for upkeep are not cheap, I only use premium consumables and OEM parts, so my total monthly operating cost before insurance was around $800/month. One day I went into my local Nissan dealership, Abbotsford Nissan, to get oil filters for Precious and our Maxima as both use the same filter, 15208-55Y0A. I had been following the Nissan Leaf with some curiosity and decided to have a closer look at one while I was there. After sitting in the car, getting a bit of a demo, I went home. I started running the numbers, using rough estimates based off internet experiences with the Leaf and figured the monthly operating cost for the Leaf would be somewhere under $600 a month. The issue was range, especially as the car would age and battery degradation would become a problem. So I asked my employer if they would let me put in a charging station(EVSE- Electric Vehicle Service Equipment), which is really just a massively overpriced extension cord as the charger is in the car itself. When my employer said yes, I went and bought the car. I didn't test drive it, so I was rather nervous the first time I drove my 2015 Leaf SV. The first couple weeks with the car I was watching energy consumption closely, figuring out how far I could push the range if I needed to. In the third week I realized that with having charging on both ends of my commute there was no need to hold up traffic so I started to drive it like a normal car. For the most part, driving the Leaf resembles driving an automatic. There are three mode selections, R, D and B. R is reverse, pretty self explanatory. D is drive, also pretty self explanatory. B is battery mode, which enables full regenerative braking when the throttle is released and without the brake pedal being depressed. This makes it possible to drive with just the throttle for the majority of my commute save for the places where I need to come to a complete stop or traffic conditions dictate I need more braking force. In R, D or B, from a dead stop, releasing the brakes will cause the car to creep in the selected direction behaving very much like an automatic transmission would. Passing is where things get a little bit different, though not by much. The first time I decided to pass someone I followed the same procedure I would with precious. First I verify it's safe to pass, then I commit to the maneuver, depress the throttle completely and shoulder check for safety. With precious, the transmission needs time to downshift, the engine needs time to build RPM and by the time I'm done shoulder checking I'm starting to accelerate. The Leaf responds immediately to throttle input, so when I fully depressed the throttle and started to shoulder check, the Leaf jumped forward. It actually scared me a bit because I had to abandon my passing maneuver and get on the brakes so I wouldn't rear end the person in front of me. The Leaf doesn't need much, if any run-up for passing, which actually agitates traffic a bit because they think I'm tailgating when in reality I'm ready to pass. I've since gone back to using a bit of a run up to try and prevent people from accelerating during the passing maneuver to stop me from getting back in the lane In terms of driver fatigue, the Leaf has the least driver fatigue of any vehicle I've driven. Even though precious is a luxury sedan, the Leaf is quieter, smoother and doesn't need the attention precious does. The seats are quite comfortable, the interior design is decent although it does show that the Leaf is without question a previous generation of interior design. From a technology standpoint, mine is the SV model, so it has navigation, bluetooth hands-free, heated steering wheel, heated seats and a few other of the goodies we've become accustomed to. My iPhone 5s paired to the car without issue other than the hands free text messaging doesn't work. I can use siri through bluetooth for that, so not a big loss. The navigation system is passable but the voice recognition is terrible. During one drive where I knew mostly where I was going, but needed some direction to the exact location, it took 20 minutes of a 25 minute drive to get the navigation to understand the street number. Terrible. Exterior design, well, I bought it as an appliance. My sales person, the sales manager and the finance manager were all trying to convince me that it is a good looking car. It isn't. It's ugly, to a degree that puts it in a class of its own. After owning it for a year the design has grown on me, but it's still ugly. I understand the engineering reasons behind having the headlights protrude out of the body like like two angry zits, but it's still ugly! The operating costs ended up coming in better than I expected even with me driving the car hard and being well below the normal energy average for most EV drivers. Most EV drivers are in the 6.2km/kWh area, I never manage more than 5.2km/kWh. Since owning the Leaf, it has given me the ability to visualize a kWh like I have never been able to before. My employer won't let me pay for the electricity I use at work, so I only have to pay for one half of my commute, which works out to $30-40/month in electricity. It's worth noting though, that here in BC I never pay more than $0.12/kWh. In some areas, high electricity rates and the lower price of fuel now will have a major effect on the economics of owning electric. A quick and interesting comparison: My wifes maxima gets about 9.5L/100, converting the energy of gasoline to kWh, that works out to around 85kWh/100km. The Leaf works out to around 19kWh/100km, with charging losses. Proving that electricity is far more efficient for producing rotational force. I was in a collision, two actually, both not my fault. This is where the Leaf starts to become an issue. The Leaf is one of the worst depreciating vehicles on the market, this means that having a claim on the car has eliminated its miniscule resale value. I have to eat that loss in value, meaning I can't trade it in against the next generation Leaf when it is released. The insurance company(family insurance, my collision coverage) doesn't care about accelerated depreciation and while I could try to sue ICBC for the accelerated depreciation, it would cost me more than I would get back. I also was refused the loss of use coverage I paid for because my dog comes to work with me. Rental companies don't want dogs in their cars, something I understand as I have allergies. I suggested that they pay for permits on one of my other vehicles that my dog is allowed to ride in, I was denied. I was told that bringing my dog to work is a choice, when it's not a choice. They also refused to cover my fuel costs, as my entire budget is based around the EV. So I went a month without work because I couldn't get wheels. When my Leaf was finished, the right side bearing was shot so I was bringing the car back to the body shop to show them it needed to be replaced, someone turned left across a painted island, right in front of me, collision number two. Now with $20,000ish of damage, it has no resale value, Nissan won't even look at it for a trade in. However I must commend my bodyshop, Fix Auto Abbotsford West, who went out of their way to get me into a car. They have one company Leaf that was a managers car at another location. They took the Leaf away from him, waived the no-pet requirement and provided me with a car to get to and from work. I've put 3500km on their Leaf so far. So the end to that last little story is this, if you're going to buy an electric car in BC, avoid family insurance at all cost. They will not write the car off unless the damage exceeds 100% of the retail value of the car, even in the first year. ICBC will write it off at 50% of the retail value in the first year. When I re insured the car, I went all ICBC, with lower deductibles and my payments went down by $10/month. The other issue is that Family Insurance has very poor customer service, they're difficult to get in contact with as a customer. I've had to eat around $3000 in lost wages so that was the first and last time I'll ever use third party insurance. So in 35,000km of Leaf experience, I've come to love the Leaf and I wouldn't entertain the idea of owning anything else for my daily commute. If I need to go anywhere further away than the Leaf can take me, it gives me an excuse to drive precious.

Refurbishing an old desktop soon, going to get 4 or 8GB of DDR2 ram. Is DDR2 is still viable? Will it be ok for some older titles e.g Witcher 2, Tomb Raider etc. Thanks! If anyone could link me an LGA 775 MoBo that takes DDR3 then it would be welcome, the one I am going for right now in this budget build refurbish thing is: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ASRock-ConRoe945G-DVI-REV-1-01-LGA775-Motherboard-With-BP-/371587954560? EDIT: Just found this wow nice to see how older pcs can still keep up!

Hello, I am looking for a new laptop to college which one should I buy ? Razer Blade 2015 or Razer Stealth ? INFO: I need laptop for high school/college. I want to play games on it. Additional questions - Will Dual Core on Razer Stealth be a problem while using it to browse internet or writing something in Google Docs ? Will Dual Core on Razer Stealth be a problem while playing games ? (I will be using "Razer Core with 970 in it) The main question is which laptop is better ( Razer Blade 2015 or Razer Stealth ) ? and Which of them as better value ?

I love mecha games but it feels like recent releases have been limited to consoles that lack sufficient power to run them at high resolutions and so forth. I really with there were more games out like Titanfall or the old Battletech rigs that you could use at arcades. Any thoughts? Games I should check out?

What do you want/looking to buy during black Friday sales?

Since 2015 is almost over thought it's the perfect time to ask You this ​ ​ ​Post how your life was this year, good? , bad? , somewhere in between? , goofed up?, lazy? ​To those who don't know what to write on , just generalize on the following topics Acheivements Loss Progress commitments goals education Love ​

Hey guys, I am Yannick from Germany and just started to go to university. After the first week I was so bored, I decided to build a gaming PC to distract me from studying. Problem is: I am pretty new to this topic and can't pick the right choices which work the best for me. Now I am asking you guys to help me build a good and powerful gaming PC around 900€. The budget is just for the hardware and the case. I already got a mouse, keyboard, headset and monitor! What I would like to see in that build (if possible) is : - NVIDIA GeForce GTX 970/980 - INTEL i5 or i7 processor I hope you can help me! Greetings from germany! -Oh and I play games like: Diablo III, CS:GO, H1Z1, GTA V, LoL, etc.

Unfortunately, I woke up a little later than I should have, and missed a large chunk of The Game Awards show- an hour to, to be exact. Is there anywhere I can find a recap of what went down in the show so far, or could someone let me know here? Thanks, Aereldor.

Intel 5960X Amazon: http://geni.us/29s4 ASUS Rampage Link: http://geni.us/18lp Intel 750 Series PCIe Amazon: http://geni.us/48Wd Protocase Protocase: http://geni.us/2tny Swiftech Apogee CPU Block Amazon: http://geni.us/2X9H Corsair Dominator Platinum 64GB Amazon: http://geni.us/rvV Noctua NF-F12 Amazon: http://geni.us/E5a EK Intel 750 Series Block PerformancePCs: http://geni.us/2xuk Monsoon Reservoir PerformancePCs: http://geni.us/3LJv Primoflex tubing from Primochill Amazon: http://geni.us/1MeH Monsoon Hardline Kit PerformancePCs: http://geni.us/2Ars New year, new gaming PC! I finally finished my 2015 gaming PC update... A little past 2015, but hey... Linus Media Group amirite?...

hey guys, I need some help with my headset. Im looking for a replacement of my Astro A40 2011 edition. Is it worth it to upgrade my 2011 edition to the Astro A40 TR? I still got my mixamp and im not looking forward to replace that because of the price. Got a good audiocard so yeah. Is this a good option or do you guys recommend something else? I dont want to go over 200 euro's.

I was planning on ordering a Venue 8 pro, but then I realized that they came out last October. So question one, do you think Dell will release a new model, and question two, would it be worth it to spend the extra cash for the new version?

1. Budget & Location $1200 USD Piedmont North Carolina 2. Aim Gaming (everything ranging from arma to minecraft. Also schoolwork and programming 3. Monitors starting with one 1080p monitor will move up to one 1440p or add another 1080p in the future. 4. Peripherals yes but this budget is just for the pc. 5. Why are you upgrading? I currently do not own my own high performance pc. Current build please rate and suggest improvements: PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/CJMBVn Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/CJMBVn/by_merchant/ CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($259.99 @ B&H) CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.50 @ Newegg) Motherboard: Asus Z170 PRO GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($157.98 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($53.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Mushkin Reactor 512GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($159.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($333.98 @ Newegg) Case: Cooler Master HAF XB EVO ATX Desktop Case ($79.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($96.50 @ Newegg) Case Fan: Arctic Cooling Arctic F12 PWM CO 74.0 CFM 120mm Fan ($9.99 @ SuperBiiz) Case Fan: Cooler Master Megaflow 110.0 CFM 200mm Fan ($14.99 @ Newegg) Other: Fan Splitter ($4.99) Total: $1206.89 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-10-20 00:22 EDT-0400