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Rustic Wooden PC (I'll think of a better name later ) The Theme: Been wanting to do a build like this for quite some time now. The idea was to create something modern out of something very old while retaining the naturally aged and rusted look. Sort of like a cross between a ‘rat rod’ and a vintage antique. As a secondary goal, I wanted this to be able to sit on a desk or be mounted to a wall with multiple orientation possibilities. As with most of my project builds as of late, I had to piece this together on a shoestring budget. So if you were expecting an i7-8700k with a 1080Ti, you’ll have to look elsewhere. The CPU may be from late 2010, but it’s still capable even today and is kind of a unique part, which you’ll find out why later. Specs: AMD Phenom II x4 960T quad-core - FX 8350 Black Edition @4.6GHz Deepcool Gammaxx 400 with GF120 fan MSI 970A-G43 Plus - MSI 970 Gaming 8GB (2x 4GB) Patriot 1866mhz RAM - 8GB (2x 4GB) AData 1333mhz RAM @1600mhz 160GB Seagate 7200rpm HDD - (will be switching to a 120GB SSD + 2x 1TB Seagates for the final reveal). MSI GTX 760 2GB OC with modified cooler CoolerMaster V650 Gold semi-modular Chassis - Old wooden hardware crate + motherboard tray from old Dell desktop The Build: Found quite a few old wooden crates in the basement and garage when we moved to my grandfather’s farm about 2 years ago. Not sure how old they are, but some of them looked like they’ve been through a lot, to say the least. After some test fitting, eventually found one that was just the right size and appearance. Established an internal layout I was happy with and began the fabrication work on the motherboard tray. Mounted that to the crate and made the appropriate cutouts to the “worst” side of the crate. My OCD had me wanting to make the cuts straight as possible, but with the theme in mind, I decided to leave it more rough. Most things made of wood that have survived as long as this crate are far from perfect after so many years of use and abuse. Up next on the agenda is to figure out how to fasten the PSU in place and start working on how to design the cable management. Being a semi-modular unit, I can’t remove the EPS, PCIe and 24-pin cables, but I definitely want to cover them up with some kind of conduit or sleeving. Oh and also, every metal part in this build is going to receive some ‘special treatment’. More on that later… Thanks for looking. (Sorry for the poor quality pics. My new phone's camera isn't half as good as my old one. Will take better pics with my old phone going forward.)

Hello! This is only my second ever watercooled build that I've done, but I worked extra hard on it with hopes that one day I can become a professional custom PC builder, which has been my wish for a long time. I have taken pictures every now and then to document my building process, so you can see some of the things I went through to get this build from an idea to the power up! This PC will be my everyday driver that I will use for playing games on triple monitor resolutions and for 3D drawing/modelling. Anyways let's get to it! My Specs: CPU: Intel i7 8700k (OC'd to 5.0GHz) Graphics card: MSI AERO GTX 1080Ti (OC) Mobo: Asus Maximus Hero X RAM: G.Skill TridentZ RGB DDR4 16GB 3200MHz Hard drives: 500GB Samsung 960 Evo M.2 SSD, 3TB HDD PSU: 750W Seasonic Titanium 80+ The Pictures: I started with drawing the 3D model in Creo Parametric 2.0. Getting the right measurements was tricky, and I only had one shot, so I had to make it right! 3D drawing has become a reality! The wooden panel is 8cm thick, made from pine wood, and finished with a clear shiny varnish. The back has much more action going on. Most of the grooves and spaces are for the cable management in the future. These are the boxed in components. Most of the watercooling parts are missing, because I didn't have them yet when I took this picture haha! I also got the cables sleeved! I ordered these from South Africa, as I do not have the tools to sleeve them myself, and had enough work as it was anyways. The colors are supposed to represent blue liquid in copper tubing, which is a sign of things to come!

Hey everyone this is my first post on the entire forums, but i had this old pc in my home, well the case, it was an old Norrod Case, still in the whole white cream collors, even an ATX PSU did not fit in it's old connectors. So after 7 months after using that one i got a new Thermaltake Case for my pc, and now i still got new great components lying arround [Atleast better then my Thermaltake ] In my thermaltake case are currently - PSU - B500 Cooler Master CPU - Intel I3-4160 Ram - 8GB Kingston And it has 2fans [ Including the CPU Cooler ] Seing as the LAN port on my newer motherboard died without explenation. The PC Case i am building will be made out of Multiplex board with a ProfiPaint finish, and the Component bases from the old pc wich i have tested and still fit. Including will be the picture of the pieces i will re-use. And a size table for the wooden pieces i have measured out, they are in Centimeter, but still as my friend said "Enormous" as the case will be 61cm tall without feet, and 54cm or longer, for the feet i will probably use tray wheels, 2 in the back that are stationary, and 2 in the front that can rotate freely for easy working capability. The parts i will put in it will be the PSU from my thermaltake due to the fact it will need more power as it will be my main rig. PSU - B500 Cooler Master CPU - I3-8100 [ iGPU UHD 630 ] Ram - 2 Kingston 4GB Strips Storage - 2 Kingston 120Gb SSD's [ 1 already in my possesion. ] and 2 500Gb HDD's one from WD Blue and one from Toshiba. Fans - 1 Xoxide 250mm Silent case Fan, 1 200mm Case Fan [ Choice undefined ] 5 120mm Casefans [ More so cause it's a wooden Case ] Front I/O will be made from: Phobya Push-button 19mm Alu Black button [ probably lue led ] Delock Kabel USB 3.0 Pin Header > 2 X USb 3.0-a Parallel USB-Adapter Delock Adapter USB 2.0 Header > 2x USB-Ausb-adapterto connect my 1-7 USB Hub wich has blue led's and switches per usb port for extra usb space. The Component Base i will need to look on how to conect it to the rest of the case seing as it will need good stability as it will hold my motherboard afterall. Maybe for that i will use some wooden rods and a few splints. And i'm thinking about doing a partial Acrylic screen on the motherboard side as it will be an aesthetics case, to the size of the motherboard tray or top of motherboard towards bottom of the psu if i make an acrylic PSU Cover. [ Indicated bythe dotted line ] Will also need to try and make a cool design for the Front piece and top etc. For the cable management i will build in some holes and fill them with Corsair Obsidian 350D Gromet Kits, and for the sounds of the fans and such i will be using Be Quiet! Demping Mat's. I will be doing some updates occasionally. Anyone any cool design idea's easy to make using a sander and hand circle saw? Those are the tools i wil mainly be using for this product including a basic battery powered drill. Will update when avaiable.

The Cary42 by Love Hulten is a beautiful portable arcade box whose craftsmanship is matched only by its price tag. Can good things truly come in such small packages? Buy the Cary42 from Love Hulten (or just look at it, there's only 50 of them): http://geni.us/p4687AZ

When I repaired my LG monitor (cheap capacitor issue, which also plagued the DC brick, that got replaced with a printer PSU), I pretty much destroyed the current frame. It's currently held together by a guitar capo, but I want some better solution instead. My plans so far: 1) Use wood, preferably walnut for the front bezel. 2) Use some other material for the backside that's cheaper, but also stronger. I'll probably use walnut veneer here to make it look nicer. 3) Make the new chassis to have the same overall thickness instead of having a bump at the back where the control panel is located. Instead, the controls will be relocated and the bottom part of the bezel will be the same as everything else. Currently I have no plans on the stand, probably going to use a wall mount for a while, and I'll install an option for VESA mounting (currently it has a 75).

Hello there Random Stranger, Welcome to my world, well.. now that I got that out of my system, welcome to my new project. My father wanted a new PC and I, as the techsavy guy in our family, offered to build him one. And as a special treat...decided to build him a custom case...just because i can. Because i know that my father is a little bit old fashioned i decided to build him a retro themed case. Inspiration was drawn from old radios and tv's. The two main materials would be copper and wood, dark wood since wood tends to darken over time. and it looks nice with copper. The next premise was: it should be located on the desk to make it easily accesible...wich ties in with the first: should look nice since it had to be placed on the desk. further requirements: DVD Drive (so annoying) Further Hardwware isnt much to mention since he gave me a pretty tight budget... so i went with a Pentium G4600 2C/4T MSI B250I Pro 8 GB DDR4 Value RAM (holy fuck that shit got expensive) some old Nvidia GT i still had (thanks to crypto that went through the roof right at the start of this build) bequiet PSU some DVD drive so i got to work and started to visualise what i had in mind. Here is a first peek using SketchUp (my fathers work area) where its black there should be copper... Those "renderings" convinced my father and i went to work. Sadly there aren't many pictures as some got lost...don't know why though after a couple of router passes i had all the 45 degree angles kinda right... that was one pain in the back to do those...especially with an unprecise routerbit. yeah.,...i made that picture with my smartphone instead of the DSLR...cant believe i did that test fitting and adjustments and yeah...its not copper...as it turns out i was too ambitious about that...couldn't do it myself as i dont have neither the tools nor the skills to do so. But i found a company which specializes in cutting sheet metal according to CAD drawings (even one at a time). Guess you need a little bit of luck too. Now i have just to paint that. Aaaand TADAAAAAA!!!!! This looks way nicer than i feared it might look. As you might have noticed...the wood is actually playwood...for the same reason the copper is not really copper. Sadly i dont have a CNC so i had to outsource the wood cutting as well. At least the openings i cut myself. (pretty lousy if one might notice) But as nobody will ever see the inside or the backside....since it will be on my fathers desk for the next 5 years.... Don't care Thats it for now. Thanks for reading along.

Buy Wooden Keyboards on Amazon: http://geni.us/Ry2nXNv We actually spent almost $1,400 USD on this fancy Japanese wooden keyboard from Hacoa. But how much nicer is it than a cheap one from Amazon?

(A little backstory) I'm 24, happily married with 2 kids! Before this whole thing I'd only built one thing out of wood, and thankfully there aren't any pictures I could find of that... thing. So I had this really awkward wall situation, a badly warped Ikea desk that was ready for the bin. Having someone build a custom desk to match these angles would cost a ton of money, especially all wood. So I did the logical thing and got into woodworking! (My wife thought I was nuts) This entire thing ran me just over $300 (Basically the price of all the wood) All the tools I used were about 300 in total as well if you want to take that into consideration, though I've used all that stuff on tons of other project by now so personally I thought it was totally worth it. This is the dying Ikea table against the strange wall. The painters tape outlines the dimensions of the new table I wanted to make. (note the cable apocolypse) I took some measurements and penciled my new tables dimensions on the floor, made some adjustments and finally taped the final size down for reference. I always liked tables that kinda rap around you like some kind of spaceship cockpit. Also, this wall looked perfect for some reference speakers for mixing music, which is why I wanted the PC at that center wall. So over the next few months I saved up and bought some basic tools. I built a workbench as a practice run since that wouldn't need to be pretty. I learned a lot during this proccess and now I had a place to work on this computer table! (Keep in mind we live in an apartment...) Here's what that workbench looked like when I first made it. I used a super dense leg system I got on Amazon to make things a bit easier on my first go. Now I had a place to work and some basic tools! So work on this baby officially started. I calculated all the wood I'd need and went off to Lowes. I picked up 8 oak 4x4s for the legs, a bunch of cheap 2x4 to make the frame where the table top would sit (After the Ikea table I promised myself I'd never have a bowing computer desk again) and a bunch of squared pine planks for the table top. Here are all the planks sitting on the work bench. These would eventually be the table top and were the bulk of the price. They ran about $30 each. Here I started working on the frame/support using all the 2x4s These things are super cheap! (like $2 for 10 feet.) I used titebond wood glue, clamps, and a nailgun for this part. The area of the frame is exactly 2" smaller than the outline on all sides, that's why it looks smaller. This is because I wanted the table top to hang 2" past the frame on all sides. Here's the finished frame! Took a lot of simple math and calculations but I eventually got it right! So this part cost like $10 because these 2x4 are so cheap. Next I attatched the legs. This part was a little trickier than I anticipated so I had to make some adjustments with a handsaw at the end. I wanted to make this table something I could take apart when we move, so rather than using glue and nails I used hardwood cabinet screws and some little oak supports under the frame I made from left over oak. Next I laid the planks on the frame and drew the angles to cut out to match the wall. I clamped these down with wood glue to the frame, but not the legs so that I can still take this thing apart later. I used heavy stuff to apply pressure where I couldn't fit the clamps. After some fine tuning she was basically done! I was originally planning on painting it, but I got so attatched by the end that I ended up just keeping the natural look. I sealed the wood with some beeswax and orange oil and that was that. I eventually added this contraption to mount my Focusrite Scarlett 18i8 And here she is today! (I use the long side on the left for soldering and using my midi.) Here's what the workbench has turned in to so far. I honestly owe a lot of the motivation for this whole thing to LMG. Watching these guys not only taught me so much but made me feel like a piece of crap for not getting more involved with tech and making my life and my friend/familys lives better. Thanks to them I built my own PC, got into soldering, woodworking, coding, and just a ton of stuff in general. It's been a really awesome ride and I can't wait to build tons more cool stuff. If you guys want any more info about this build just let me know and I'll post it! My PC is nothing crazy but here's my setup in case anyones curious. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/DRd8Fd Hopefully I'll have the cash to build a super bada** computer some day. I'll definitely share it with all of you. - Jesus (Yes, that is my name)

Hey guys i need your opinion on my plans to making a wood monitor stand ... as i am NOT a wood master ^^' do you think 3 cm thick wood will support my monitor ? i need this to "hide" my keyboard bellow so i can have more place to study .... it needs to have a bottom gap of 43 cm between the legs so the keyboard fits and 10 cm height (or 12 ? what do you think ?) . i made a basic sketch of waht i have in mind. i tested the 10cm height with some books and it feels good for me.

So I've started with the idea of making a compact, sturdy, and relatively easy to use and maintain rig. I ended up with a pretty badarse looking pc, which while not being as sturdy as I would've wanted, it'll hold in my 70 liter backpack (while only taking up half of it!) along with some peripherals and a couple of small monitors. WARNING. I SWEAR A LOT. For Part 1 skip to about 6:16 for the beginning of the build. QUESTION 1: Won't wood affect thermals? No. Not in any significant way, at least not in the way I have designed the case with my specific components. QUESTION 2: Won't wood bend as time goes on? Probably not. Plywood usually sits in stores for a while. Will update if I notice any significant issues. QUESTION 3: Wouldn't metal be more effective in a small form factor build? It would be. Unfortunately, metal is a lot harder to work with and you risk shorting out your components if you don't get the measurements right. QUESTION 4: What't the weight compared to an aluminium case? The case by itself, with no components attached is roughly 800 grams lighter compared to a standard case. However, this case can only mount 2 hard drives. QUESTION 5: What's the cost for the material? I paid $10 for 4 square meters of plywood, of which I used about 2 square meters. So technically, 5 bucks, practically, 10. QUESTION 6: How much time did it take? It took ME about 3 days, because I'm an idiot and did a lot of mistakes (also, didn't have plans) and also recorded it. If you make some plans before hand I reckon you'd make it in about 1 day of vigorous cutting and gluing. QUESTION 7: What thickness of plywood have you used? I used 4 mm because it was the cheapest. However, you might want to use higher-density but thinner plywood. It might be a bit more expensive, but might also be worth it. QUESTION 8: is it better to use 4mm or 10mm plywood? 4mm Plywood: Pros: -Thinner, better for compact cases. - Easier to drill holes through. - Easier to cut through. -Can make more detailed art. Cons: -You HAVE to use spacers with your screws. You can't countersink screws, so they will stick out of the case. Depends: -If you need more strength, you can glue (or screw) together two pieces of plywood to make an 8mm thick piece. It gives you flexibility, but also takes away some time. 10mm Plywood: Pros: -Much sturdier, if you're making a large stylized server or something. -Can be used as standalone art piece with some wood lacker, no need for paint if you're precise with your cuts. You CAN countersink screws, so if you cover it in Tolex or something like I did, it will look MUCH smoother. Cons: -Harder to work with. -Hard to make precise, detailed art with.(INCLUDING FAN MOUNTS AND EXHAUST!) -Hard to mount I/O like USB ports and such. Depends:- You can confidently go with larger cases, allowing for sound-proofing materials to be installed on the insides. Post more questions and I'll answer them to the best of my abilities. Just as a disclaimer, I don't do YouTube full time.

So as the titles suggests, should I used MDF or Plywood for a full custom PC case build ? Or take the other route of using an old used pc case and mod it ? -Using wood means I can do a 100% custom design, but require more effort of building and gathering material. - Using an old case means I can skip some building steps and material costs, but I won't get the exact design I want. So what should I chose ? and if it's wood then what is a better type ? (mostly 1 cm thickness)

Howdy folks, Back when I lived with my parents I was working on a popsicle stick house, but I had to get rid of it since there was no space to put it in my new apartment. Now that I have a workbench in my shed, I can finally do some building projects I've been wanting to do for a while and a popsicle stick model house is one of them. Building and designing things from scratch is a hobby I guess, it helps me clear my head and allows me to be creative. Along the way I'm gonna take pictures and I figured I'd make a post here to have others enjoy my project, get feedback and comments, ideas, etc. I'm building this to a 1:24 scale, kinda, I think. 1 inch = 2 feet. I use the metric system on a daily basis, better yet, I don't even have a ruler with inches on it. Anyways, 4cm is about a meter and building with wooden popsicle sticks is not that accurate anyway. A fully built wall is about 4.5 inches tall, so 9 ft, which I believe is a decent ceiling height. All doors are 3.5 inches tall, which translates to 7 ft. I intend on putting LED lighting in this house and powering them off of little solar panels I will stick to the roof. I guess it would also be fun to get a small LCD screen, say 2 inches diagonally and use that as a miniature TV that can actually display something. Just my imagination running wild here. I've got LEDs laying around somewhere, plenty of resistors, heat shrink and thin gauge wire. I know electronics basics, so should be able to get some lights working. As a base I'll be using a 3/4" (18mm) piece of particle board and I'm glueing it all together with a hot glue gun and a shitload of those glue cartridges. As far as design goes, I used SketchUp to mock up a model of what I intend to make. This is subject to change though as the build progresses and ideas flow through my head. It's a modern build, I guess. My idea with this build was a house on a hill, where the back of the house is pretty much against the hill with a steep slope front to back. This picture resembles my idea somewhat. Ground floor consists of a 2 car garage and on the right from front to back: entry with stairs going up, hallway, utility room/storage room. Upper floor has stairs coming up on the bottom right to a landing, gap in the wall to a kitchen/living area, two bedrooms and a bathroom up top. Above this floor is an attic space, which could be a home office or guest bedroom of sorts. Comments and ideas are always welcome of course. I'll be updating the thread with pictures as the build progresses.

Project: Teaky Hello everyone! This is my fifth scratchbuild since I started with casemodding back in 2008, but it's my first time posting a worklog on a english forum. I started planning this project in 2014, and started the building a month ago. Everything needs to be done before this years easter! So I have about 14 days to finish the build before this years big happening, The Gathering 2016 (a huge dataparty in Norway, with 5000 participants) Some of my previous projects @GreenRay - Stay tuned

Hey all, I am planning to build a case from scratch out of wood, this is my first time building a case from scratch so I was wondering if there is anything I should look out for?

New rig for my sisters bday, she wanted it to be a maximum of 9cm wide. parts haven't all arrived yet but it's starting to take shape. The hole in the grill will remain until I get the GPU fitted. thanks for the attention! -jeza

Living with my wife in a 1 bedroom apartment has shown its issues. Like gaming on a custom PC is not all quite possible when using the space as efficiently as we try. I have resorted to console gaming on the Xbox One and PS3 while needing to be creative. This build log shows the work in progress of cleaning up my little bit of gaming space while also showing the creativity of keeping an apartment classy and clutter free (at least in to a tight corner). Also, this was a good time to learn creative wood techniques. Hope you all enjoy. This is my current setup, complete with wiring. I keep game cases in the tiny box to the bottom right. My old Xbox 360 could sit on that coke box, but the Xbone doesn't allow for vertical standing. Tried. I hide power plugs behind the coke box and an extension cord when I get my SNES to play some Donkey Cong country. Here is a close up look of the TV. A no frills Sony. It feeds down under the carpet. Didn't do that on purpose. Landlord had to fix the subfloor and the wiring got tucked under it. Quite nice. Yes, that is a first gen Zune. Best media player on the planet and it still works. Only a 3 hour battery now. Here is the culprit that I am going to fix. I will build a shelf to stack the PS3 and Xbone. Idea is to add an HDMI switcher to allow the computer behind the bag to run on the TV as well. I will do a separate post when I get around to getting the PC up and running as a media server and NAS. I am going to fix all my problems with this. Scrap wood. Courtesy of my father in law, as well as the power tools to make my storage organizer. I won't show the steps in cutting. Pretty standard cuts with very basic joints, glue, and 4 in screws. Most of the pieces together to form a frame. Ran out of time and grabbed a piece to take home and verify it would fit. Perfect! And yes, the Xbone will squeeze in there with micrometers to spare on each side. I won't be boarding up the sides for airflow sake. I will finish putting all the pieces together this week and will upload more pics. Thanks for taking a look. All thoughts are welcome. ~TheCamba

I dont know if you have seen the video LinusTechTips just posted but i really want to make a testbench out of wood. So all the metal parts you see in the video i want to change that to wood I dont know if thats possible tho so please let me know

I dont know if you have seen the video LinusTechTips just posted but i really want to make a testbench out of wood. So all the metal parts you see in the video i want to change that to wood I dont know if thats possible tho so please let me know

Unbox Therapy:

So after seeing a few projects on the forums I decided to do one of my own. I happen to have a woodshop handy so why not do something out of wood? I've also been thinking of how I'd really like to have wrist rests for my poker 2 and Ducky mini so *Bam!* There's my project. I actually started building cabinets when I was a teenager then moved on to other things. A lot of the tools and things I have may not be something everyone has but you can get around that. I didn't really make these with the intent of selling them, although it did cross my mind after I made 6 of them. *let me just throw out there that if you wish to try to make on of these it is at your own risk* I can imagine it's very difficult to type with less fingers than you currently have. And on the same note, trying to use someone elses fingers that have been cut off will probably not show any benefit as well. I'll explain what I did and other ways it could be done. I started off with a piece of maple and walnut about 2 3/4 inches wide and 4 foot long , I typically just plane everything to around 3/4 to 9/16 just as a standard.If you're buying lumber: buy something closer to the final thickness you'll need (closer to 5/8 probably) Go ahead and run an edge across a jointer to get something to start with.This step isn't really necessary unless you start with rough cut lumber. If you buy your lumber from a big box store more than likely it's going to be cut to a good starting point. This is where things may get tricky: Using a raised panel cutter(used for cutting raised panel cabinet doors) in a shaper, I cut my angle on the rests.You could do this a few different ways to get near the same results, most will take some form of tools though. First option would be to use a router table and cut with a 60 degree or higher if you can find one. If you happen to have a jointer/ planer you could make a jig to make this cut. The last method is probably the route most will have to take: Using a hand saw of some form, mark lines for the top and bottom of your cut and be careful to go slow, letting the saw do the cutting, and be careful to stay on your lines. You'll probably need to do some pretty aggressive sanding using the hand saw. I was going to suggest a table saw but thinking about this cut on a table saw scares me a bit to be honest. You'll then cut your length. For mine I chose about 11 3/8 inches to fit my poker 2, Unfortunately for my ducky mini it could have really been a bit closer to 11 3/4 This is where you have a few options, you can either use a surface planer to get your final thickness and smooth out any saw marks or you can go strait to sanding I ran everything through a door sander for a couple passes (I don't expect everyone to have door sander lying around) then I finally hand sanded everything out using 120 grit and moving to 220I suggest if you have some real rough areas and are stuck sanding, start with a 60 or 80 grit (which for hardwood is very course) and stay with your grain until your saw marks are gone. Using a power sander or going across grain with coarse grit papers can make some nasty work when you step up to your next grit. You can then move on to 120 and then 220. Be sure to make a light run with 220 over your corners just to knock them down a bit. To finish it I start with a stain, I stuck with a natural finish on both of these, but you can pick whatever stain you like of course. The final step is then to spray with a clear. I use a cabinet grade semi-gloss lacquer.You should be able to use any poly or a rattle can lacquer with similar results. Although this may not be the most simplistic project, it's a good weekend project if you're looking for something to keep you busy. And here are the results(sorry, the photos are a bit noisy, they were taken with a phone) Have fun!

Hi there, i am new to the forum. I am planning a new wooden case build for next summer, and i am currently in the proces of designing the case. I have been drawing for a couple of weeks now and i am now at a point at which I would realy like to hear some feedback from other people. The idea was to build a pc with a small footprint (12 cm in this case) and with an atx mobo and full length GPu's. All the exterior panels are removable and can be exchanged for other panels when I want another look. Under the top, front and bottom panels there will be RGB lighting. The inside wil also have RGB lighting. Cooling is done by 7 80mm fans pulling air out of the case. This wil cause negative air pressure so air will be pulled in through the filtered side panel. Any questions? Post a message. Please do not comment on my English, it is not my native language. Here are some screenshots: (see other pages of this thread for updates on the design) Link to gallery: http://linustechtips.com/main/gallery/album/2837-planned-summer-build/

ok so this past week i got really fed up with the quality and loudness of the "5.1 surround" that i had for my pc. i personally believe that for ***MUSIC*** and most movies and games that a simple yet PROPERLY built 2.1 audio set up is just fine, and that there is NO need for these 1000watt plus surrounds and all that BS... so in this log i will be building a custom sound bar from solid maple wood... not maple veneer. this will be as close to an audiophile grade sound for about 150 bucks. this sound bar that i am currently in the process of drawing out will ONLY be using 2-4" dayton RS100-4 speakers and a 2ch 30watt amp from texas instruments (2ch x 15w each @4ohm). i do plan to mount some leds are the bar so tune in to see shiny things. ill be uploading pics everyday.

Hello people, I'm getting rid of my main PC, so this means my laptop will sit on my table from now on. It's only a 13" Macbook Pro Retina, but it takes up unnecessary space on my desk, so I need a vertical laptop stand. I had a look at the available stands I liked this one very much. It's 80€ though, and that for a Laptop stand, made out of wood is ridiculous. I'm going to roughly stick to the overall form, but I cant make it out of one piece of wood as I'm lacking the tools and the patience to do so. Instead, I'll be making it out of 4 pieces: Two arches with two spacers in between on which the laptop will sit on. By now, I've made a rough model and made a prototype out of laminated spruce. When I'm happy with the design, I'll make the stand out of beechwood. The tools I'm using are: Power drill, a jigsaw that I mounted upside down in my workbench, a disk sander, various hand tools. Software-wise, I'm using LibreCAD for the cutting templates and SketchUp for the 3D model Have some pictures: The construction is surprisingly stable. I'll make the Arches wider so they're more rigid.

I've decided I've had enough of my old Thermaltake (boo, hiss) case. Since I have access to laser cutters and a CNC router, I thunk up the idea of building my own, from scratch. I plan on using wood because it's cheaper to work with than metals, although the case will have a metal frame. It'd be easier to gut an existing case, but I have some specific design wants/needs which aren't available AFAIK on the market right now. Now I know at least one of you here has a homemade case and I was wondering if y'all had any tips for me. I'm still undecided on some specifics, most importantly form factor - I've been debating in my head about making a cube tower, with the PSU mounted behind the motherboard; but since I have an ATX motherboard it might look a bit ungainly. I also only require 4 x 5.25" bays and an SSD mounting spot, for storage. Other planned features: The spinny drives will be supported by elastic bands inside the bays My very rarely used optical drive will pop-out of the top of the case if I need it; being delightfully hidden away the rest of the time. Plenty of cable management features symmetrical side panels, with one side painted and the other au naturel, if the mood calls for a swap [both of which will be engraved with the logo of my video production company or bunnies and stuff] clean, "floating" front panel design with ventilation behind it. built-in fan controllers (also DIY) some form of light sound proofing Maybe pulling a Silverstone and rotating the motherboard 90 degrees clockwise, although that comes with additional design challenges, but would improve airflow massively. Thoughts? Opinions? Tips? Halp? F1?

Amazon: http://geni.us/3hlq NCIX: http://bit.ly/1VnM53r Sets are coming together, we made some MLG dishes, and do we FINALLY have a move-in date?