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I'm working on a pc case in the steampunk style. After I put the fun stuff in the box I realized I didn't calculate the size for PSU or HDDs. What's my best option? I considered making a smaller box to go on the left side of the case. If I go with that option, how would I stack the hdds?
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Ok, so it isn't exactly a build log as such but I wanted to share what one can do with cheap vinyl. Admittedly it isn't perfect as it has a few air bubbles in places (especially the back side panel) but the case was in a pretty bad condition before hand and this is a HUGE improvement aesthetically. So here are the results of my PC case now: Edit: I took the photos of my PC in the garden as I thought the wood appearance would look nicer with some greenery and light instead of my dark man cave
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i want to biuld a desk pc but idk how to mount the mobo stand offs to the wood i have no i dea how to do hard wear i read on the goole then i can use threded inserts but which ones should i get these are the mobo standofs im going to get also how can i make io stuff flushed with the wood http://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-6-5mm-brass-standoff-6-32-m3-pc-case-motherboard-riserscrews-washers-new/371350207868?hash=item5676327d7c
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This is the 4th wooden case I have built and by far the best looking so far.. overall the whole project took roughly 40 hours from start to finish. I started with a cougar steel case that i had previously painted camouflage.. looked cool for awhile but i got bored of it after a few months. first I sanded the majority of the paint off and painted it black to prevent flash rust. Then i got the grinder out with a metal cutoff wheel (no dremel since I'm not 12) (jk) i cut out the drive bays since i wanted to be able to mount two front 120mm fans without much air restriction and also cut out the metal mesh around the rear fan since all it's doing is restricting airflow. I also cut a hole in the top panel for a window too. once i was at this stage i began to start cutting wood for the top and front panel (i used red oak if anyone is wondering). i dont have a lot of pictures from this unfortunately, but i used a 120mm hole saw ($11 online vs $30+ at the local hardware store) and i also used a jig saw to cut out the top window of the wood too. to get all of the pieces to stick together i used a craig's jig (pocket holes).. you can just free hand them if you want to be cheap, but when using really hard wood then id recommend a jig. and i also used 3/8" screws with 2 part epoxy to hold the wood to the metal. above is a picture of what pocket holes look like.. i usually just use them to secure wood without being able to see anything from the outside. next i began to make the main side panel (the left one if you're looking at the front) this was by far the hardest part since i was working with the wood going in different directions, and my table saw wasn't working properly so when screwing in the wood then it would pull upwards due to an uneven cut (the only real limitation to the Craig's jig. from this point after making two different side panels, then i decided to use 3/4" overlay European cabinet hinges. This simply means that 3/4" of the material behind where the hinge is mounted will be covered by the door when its in the closed position. excuse the mess in all of these pictures.. im currently working on 4-5 projects at the same time.. including a test bench and another pc case (full wood no metal) one example of a project i was working on was a set of grips for an airsoft 1911 "FUN" FACT.. i used a piece of $.75 walnut scrap wood encase anyone was wondering. once the hinges were fit and i was happy with the gap between the door and frame then i decided to pick out a stain. In this case (pun intended) i decided to use a mix of a dye and water based stain 50/50 mix one was Merlot and i forgot the name of the other.. ask if youre interested. this is a picture of the stain after two coats and also two coats of water based polyurethane (didnt feel like waiting for oil based) and i moved it to a different room since i didnt want to get dust all over it... i also painted the inside black (i love the way oak looks painted black.. i used 2x painters touch spray paint incase anyone was wondering.. and i also made a switch box (pictured below) to be able to shut off the two front case fans and soon to be seen leds after this all dried then mounting hardware began.. for this build i used... sapphire 280x vapor x fx 6300 970 gaming mobo 1 tb hard drive 8gb 1600 mhz ram 725 watt psu hyper 212 cooler antec f12 fans (ive been surprisingly happy with them (and i also like how they look) ignore the residue on random stuff as i had just been hot gluing fans/plexiglass in that furry is my new gpu for my next build.. these parts were overall decently intermediate, but i just wanted some parts to get a friend a starter pc. let me know if anyone had questions ect.. below are pictures of the finished product and ignore the mess in the room i was soldering and we had a lan party lolz. its hard to take pictures that do it justice, but it looks way better in person... let me know if anyone has questions.
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Hello fellow tech enthusiasts, Last year I built this custom PC case at my parents house for my dad to store all his maps and data for our forestry family business (and also so I have a rig to play games on when I'm at home) I'm a student at u university, studying to be a English and it teacher in Germany. Due to my very limited income I was never able to build a awesome computer for myself, but I had the brilliant idea to talk my parents into needing one for "their maps and picture edeting ". For years I had the dream to create a custom case made out of wood. I was never sure how to do it properly, and also how to find a designer that looked elegant, was 'pactical' and nobody had done before. The designer I choose now, I am very happy with, and for the first PC I build, I think it is awsome. I wanted to recreate the look of stacked wood, the tape you would find at any home with a fireplace. The wax I achieved this was by making a frame out of 4 pliewood pieces on the top, bottom, and sides, and fine 2 metal fence squares in the front and back. The bottom wood piece has a big hole in it where I mounted one singular 250mm case fan. On the sides I prepared bolts and spacers to mount the motherboard, before I screwed the wooden cut pieces to the side all the way around. The front metal mesh, I spray painted white, and cut sections of of cut wood and screed them to the mesh to make it look like the wood was stacked everywhere. The mesh can be screwed on and off with 4 screws. The back mash has no wood. The anterior of the case is as small as I could find parts for it. 32cm of space in all directions has to be enough to install a motherboard, 16gb of ram, an i7 8700k with the biggest bequiet cooler I could find, 5tb of storage and a super tiny gtx1080. All the parts fit perfectly, no space to give. The hdd and ssd drives were mounted with velcro tape to the sides were there was space. Cooling in the case is amazing. The one singular case fan pulls up air into the gpu and the rest of the case is just cooled the the massive cup cooler circulating air from front to back through the "open" case design. One thing I wanted to achieve in this build, was having no buttons or lapels on the case for a cleaner look. So I ran 3m extension cords for everything through a sleve from the case directly into one external wooden box that could be placed any where. On the picture zou can see the disc drive, the power button, and connections for usb 3 and 2 as well as headphone and mic. I'm sorry that I cant provide pictures of the build, but I did not realise I would live the PC so much that I would like to share the finished results. For the wood I used a tree from our forest that i cut down and dried myself. The monitor is also from the same wood, where a friendly carpenter prepared the wood and I got a controller board from Ebay and a old laptop screen. If I have the funds to hold another one of those, I think I I will provide pictures of the process, but for now feel free to ask me anything. Urs, Moritz
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Hi Guys, I just wanted to share the result of my first custom PC adventure. Here's a Picture of the completed build: Here's the hardware list: PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU Intel - Core i9-9900K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor $484.99 @ B&H CPU Cooler Noctua - NH-U9S 46.44 CFM CPU Cooler $59.95 @ Amazon Motherboard Asus - ROG STRIX Z390-I GAMING Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard $199.98 @ Amazon Memory Corsair - Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory $261.00 @ Amazon Storage Western Digital - Green 240 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive $49.89 @ OutletPC Video Card Asus - GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB TURBO Video Card $771.80 @ Amazon Power Supply SeaSonic - FOCUS SGX 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply $117.63 @ Amazon Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total $1945.24 Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-05-21 05:33 EDT-0400 Shut up! I need a 9900k for REASONS! The general idea was to create a case with direct airflow pretty much directly from bottom to top in the smallest doable form factor. It's not perfect by a long shot but then again i am no craftsman of any sort. With it now running and having gone through a few benchmarks and stress tests I found that i can comfortably run the cpu to a clock of 4.9 without the fans going crazy or temps going over 80 degrees. The tower cooler is definitely sufficient. The GPU is also suprisingly silent for a blower stly card but definitely the loudest part of the system. If i were to do it again i would probably not take a blower style card again but it's really no big deal. The system is overall almost inaudible even under some light load (i.e: games) The GPU will of course be audible when doing a render. If anyone is interested I'll pack out some of the pictures i did inbetween and share the build process. I am also open to any questions or suggestion of course. Update: Here's some pics and description to serve as a little bit of a buildlog. half of those are "reenactments" though, since i did not make many pictures while building unfortunately. The initial idea: I had this old can for imported olives that i liked the look of and so i had the whacky idea of putting a pc into it. I made a first prototype... which worked insofar as it fit the can over it. I realized though, that the whole construction was a little to shaky while also being pretty heavy, so i started again: I created this model in blender of how it should look like. It has all the components in it and should fit since it is all to scale ... or so i thought. I went to building then... Here's a tutorial on how to do teethed connections the dirty way. Don't do this in front of a woodworker. They might just murder you. Draw the teeth (preferrably with a breadth that is a divider to the total length, so that there isn't one little tooth at the end): The depth should usually be the same as the depth of the plate. Set a tablesaw to the depth and draw it towards the plate holding it like so: # Be careful doing that of course. tablesaws are dangerous. I recommend putting a second sacrificial plate behind the first one, so that the first plate does not fray. Lastly... you use whatever you have or the actual 90° clamp to put the two together after wood glue was applied: Now.... before any of this... which i did not do... you should make all the holes for screws. In my experience the tons of glue used in good layered wood should easily suit the needs of pc screws. I used a sacrificial plate to determine the right sizes for the holes. You could trust the measurements of the screws but why not try is before using it to hold hundreds of euros of hardware. Everything else was pretty much just holes and screws. There is only more truly custom thing: I made clamps to hold the PSU from brass: I put felt in between the metal and the PSU to absorb vibration. At this point i realized, that the components would firstly not fit as intended and secondly that i had not considered how much space cables need. I had to rethink the arrangement and ended up with something like this: I then rebuilt my blender model: It came out something like that. The final form is a compromise, since most IO is at the side, which i wanted to avoid but i am pretty happy with it. I then bought acrylic glass, cut it with a tablesaw (not recommended. dont be cheap like me and get an acrylic cutter.) sanded the sides down up to 800 grid and drilled holes with a metal drill. be careful when punching guide holes for the drill. acrylic is pretty easily cracked as i had to learn. I drilled holes into the sides of the case and inserted threaded bolts until about a cm stood out. I then cut off the head of the bolts. The glass goes over the bolts and is held with wingnuts. As you can clearly see, i painted the case with varnish before installing the hardware. The feet are currently a temporary solution. I am not sure what to do for fee yet. I taped a patch of airfilter sheet from the internet to the bottom to filter the intake. Also a temporary solution right now. If there are any questions left open i am happy to answer.
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Hello everyone. At the beginning I would like to apologize you all for my bad English, i'm not a native speaker. I was planning to replace my old laptop with something new for almost a year but I always had some other expenses Finally i have some spare money. For today my planned setup looks like this: CPU: Ryzen5 2600X GPU: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 G1 GAMING 8GB GDDR5 or GTX 1060 RAM: HyperX Predator 16GB HDD: Samsung 970 Evo M.2 250GB + WD Blue 2TB PSU: Corsair RMx 650W CP-9020178-EU MB: to be honest idk. At the beginning, I planned to choose Gigabyte X470 AORUS ULTRA GAMING but now i thinking about MSI X470 GAMING PRO CARBON or ASRock X470 Taichi. Or even ASUS PRIME X470-PRO. Maybe you have some advise. Most of the cases looks mehh or is it's too expensive, so i decide to to make one from scratch. The choice was obviously simple. Wood. Work is already in progres. A few very raw sketches. I decided to stick to my original idea and choose variant B. With little difference as to the location of the PSU. Dimensions about 45x45x45 cm. Two wooden side panels, front with three holes for 140fans and two 5,25 bays hidden behind wooden doors and sliding top with window. There are no other plans, everything is in my head and will be modified during work. DAY 1 Some reclaimed wood. Oak beams from the old fence, old boards from the attic and scrap remaining from previous projects Att work i ran them through jointer and finished off with planer in home. Motherboard tray, raw fit and some old MB And glued Working on the frame. One of the side panels DAY 2 and 3 Mostly filling nail holes with pegs. Patching knots. Cuting pegs Multitool was very helpful in cutting off all these pegs. But in hindsight i should bother with any of this. DAY 4 Gluing front panel. DAY 5 Resin is here + blue dye U use resin for the first time. Filling all the cracks and holes. At this point, I realized that I shouldn't pegs all this nail holes. DAY 6 Shopping day. 3,5mm nd 2x 3,8mm drils M3 bolts, washers and nuts small wheels set of 25cm ... I have no idea what it's called in english ( drawers are mounted on them) and the most important 5mm straight cutting bit. DAY 7 Work on the front panel . Panel cut to the final dimensions. 43x43cm I made it simple jig for cutting 140mm round hole. Unfortunately, none of my bits(good one) is long enough to cut the entire thickness of the board (and thickness of jig). I had to use multitool. And finish with template bit. IDK. it's looks not bad. Another jig for cutting hole for two 5,25 bay. Cutting bay for 2x 5,25 and some "control panel" reset and buttons for backlight. Quick sanding. Front panel with door. Cutting 5mm slots with router. After three passes i discovered my huge mistake, 140mm holes weren't sanded. Start with 40 and 80 grid and finish with 120 grid by hand. I don't have quality roundover bit so instead of risking wood chiping i use 45 cuting bit and sandpaper Cutting rest of the slots. I made two mistakes:(. Measure twice, cut once :). Gluing filler strip in to the slots. That's all up to now. I still hesitate over the finish. I was thinking about burning and staining. But idk how a resin can handle treatment with a fire. I was also thinking about controlling the fan speed and i still somewhere have necessary electronic components. But I don't think it necessary.
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I've been working a project the last few months building my own arcade cabinet and I intend on putting a ASUS Maximus IV Gene-Z with an i5-3570K and a GTX 970 Windforce inside. I have a a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo on top of it that did a great job keeping everything cool when it was inside an actual computer case previously. I had it overclocked to 4.6GHz without any issues as well, which honestly was surprisingly easy. My worry is that when I install it inside of the cabinet (which is made of wood and has two 15"x35" doors on the front of it that aren't airtight, but it's only a small gap) their wont be enough airflow inside. I could add some small vents out the sides and/or back, or I have a bunch of extra fans that I could add to the cabinet, but I don't want to go ahead and buy a 120MM hole saw and start cutting everything up if I don't have to. Would I be asking for trouble if I just mounted everything inside and let it rip?
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Hello, Its time again for a new build and this time I am going to use my favorite material, wood! After lots of planning I decided it was going to be another ITX build that would still fit at least one 240mm radiator and long graphics cards if thats what I choose to go with. The plan is to use closed watercooling loops for both CPU and GPU to make future upgrades easier. Ive seen quite a few wood builds over the years but nothing that really felt like me so this will be my version, should also be quite obvious what case I was inspired by Huge thanks to bequiet! and Asrock for helping out with the hardware for this build! And here are a few 3D renders
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Hi guys I want to move my pc from my crappy case onto a homemade case to mount on my wall. The idea here is to build something that I can mount on the wall behind my desk and monitors, that looks nice, is compact, and that I can take off of the wall, pick up, and carry with me to a LAN party. I'm using an ATX motherboard and PSU with a large air cooler (Fuma 2) and a gigabyte 1070ti. I still want to be able to use my odd and put at least my ssd and one 3TB HDD in the system. Below are my base layout and some PC that fit the aesthetic I'm going for. If any of you could give me some suggestions or design/layout ideas I would really appreciate it. 7d522d1d4c928d688a00b7cadf1f4e31.jpeg.webp 7d522d1d4c928d688a00b7cadf1f4e31.jpeg.webp PC.glb PC.stl
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This is my current PC build. Specs are pitiful this has an core i7 3gen 3.40 ghz I think, 8 gbs of DDR3 RAM, a 320 HHD hard drive blue again I think, with a cheep power supply that seems to be working, a DVD player and finally a 8 gb Sapphire Nitro Radeon R9 390 GPU. PLEASE HELP ME!
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This is my basic setup for doing graphic design work. I am going to get a graphics card and jump up to 32 gigs of RAM shortly. New desk is under construction.
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Apologies in advance if this is in the wrong section or not allowed in some fashion. Two weeks ago, there was a link to a competition to win a Jord watch on the WAN Show found here: After entering (and not winning) said competition, they did in fact send a $50 discount code which I will not be using Per the e-mail, Jord said it was fine if the code was shared with someone who will make use of it. So if anyone here was thinking of getting a Jord watch, here's a $50 off discount code: dead link removed
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So Ive gotten a dremel and I loveeeee modding comps with it, however Im going a step further and making a custom wood case and I need my dremel to use as I lack tools much better. Ive only got two types of blade thinies: one says its for plastic and the other metal. Should I try using th eone for metal one wood or will they both be garbo? Ive got these: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Dremel-EZ-Lock-11-1-2-in-Fiber-Cut-off-Wheel-Set/3085917
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I'm mounting a motherboard on a wooden base I just want to know what is the safest way to do so. What should I know before installing the motherboard on a wooden surface?
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I'm new to the forum, new to PC building, and new to the LTT fan base, so I did the only logical thing I could think of: I watched every video on multiple LTT channels in the past year, built a 1500 dollar parts list on pcpartpicker, and then set out to make a PC that would be unmistakably my own creation. Thus, after 3 months of work, one trip to the hospital, and a stroke of luck on the COVID-19 stock market, I give you... The Stumputor. I've included a video of the general process, but I'm going to take all the photos I have and make a log of posts that detail the whole process. I haven't assembled all the parts yet, so if you think I'm making bad choices then please let me know! I'm new and appreciate advice! https://pcpartpicker.com/user/sneakyscout007/saved/rzkdD3 Instragram_video_2.mp4 Instragram_video_2.mp4
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Hey I'm building my computer in my desk which would be out of wood. My plan is making everything out of 1/2 inch wood. So I came over few questions about how to install some of the components. I was wondering if anyone know how to make a gpu slot or whatever you wanna called it on the wood so the gpu wouldn't bend? The motherboard is gonna be vertical but I don't wanna make the gpu vertically too in case I wanna expand on the other slots later on. Any advice? And any advice on power supply in 1/2 inch wood too? Would I need a longer screw for power supply than or just thinner wood? Thanks in advance
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I finally got my new desk built, sanded, stained, assembled and now installed! Still have a bit more cable management to accomplish, but at least it is functional. The Mess before I started. This is what my workstation has been like for years. Our robot vacuum would constantly get caught on the cables, and they bothered me. Not much room. Had to clean the space while I had the chance. Old desk next to new. Sorry for the blurry photo. The new one fits. My cat Bennett (Benny) agrees. Here is my cable management system. That is a metal bracket (I bent out of Aluminum bar stock) holding the UPS and a Rain Gutter downspout extension I am using for a cable raceway. $6 instead of the nice metal IKEA one for $35. Putting stuff on the new desk. Here is my first cable management for my desk attempt. At least our robot vacuum can get under there now. And now my tower is no longer on the floor anymore. I appreciate all the feedback and ideas while I was doing this!!! Hey @Mateyyy, @TofuHaroto what do you think?
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Some background: I've started creating my own furniture out of wood some months ago and found it surprisingly easy to make some basic stuff. I'm ramping up the difficulty with moving parts and other special things inside each of my designs to see where my limits are and what's possible with these builds. A lot of ideas are thought of in advanced and fledged out over time, taking care not to make some earlier mistakes and accidentally saw things too short/heavy/otherwise erroneous. I'm thinking in advance about a computer build that I might do. The build: The (current) idea is to create a wooden frame high on the wall with separated compartments bolted inside it, possibly with some distance between each compartment. These compartments are all created from a combination of wood and glass, possibly including some metalworking. Each compartment would hold one important component if possible, like a separate one for the graphics card and one for the hard drive(s). I'm thinking of water cooling it, so you can see the pipes going from one compartment to the other. The compartments would be put in a "3D" configuration, so it would create depth in the build. The concerns: Now I'm fairly certain I can put several components in different compartments, as LTT has shown extension cables for PCI-express slots for example and I've checked on cablemod for some more ideas. But there are lots of other things to be concerned about. - I wonder if the wood won't hold too much heat, somehow worsening the cooling solutions or possibly catch fire (then the cooling solution would already have failed obviously). Now my wood choice can already prevent flammability, but I'm still concerned how the heat would spread. - More cooling would be needed, as each compartment has to be cooled separately instead of one case, so I'm wondering if that's possible as well. - Would a pump get really loud and/or be able to pump the cooling fluid if the pipes are too long? - I don't know if static electricity or something similar would become a factor when using wood. - What kind of extension cables are there, or which components can all be put into a different compartment? - When will signal degradation/lag start one some extension cables? I would guess it's fine over short distances, but I've been surprised before. I'm sure there's more, but I can't think of anything right now. Extra ideas for the build: - Some TVs nowadays have this solution to have all cables go into one box, so less cables are needed. Is there anything like that for the PC, so that the I/O can be placed on the desk for example? It would save great effort if a box with all these connections could be placed on the desk for example. This way I only need to pull new cables towards this I/O on the desk instead of up the wall towards the PC. Currently I'm somehow at least once every 2 months crawling under the desk to change some cables and it's a real hassle. Even extension cords for each I/O format would be welcome, as I could fix that into a box myself and sleeve it towards the PC. I don't know if there would be any signal degradation on some of the lines, so if people would know anything about that as well it would be welcome information. - I'm in doubt for some of the cord configurations. I don't know if I leave them visible in between the compartments, if I have a small "bridge" connecting each to hide the lines or have the frame of the build hollow to put some cables in there. Now it's not certain if I will ever build this and when, as I first need to have the skills, tools and knowing if it can be done at all. Even so, I do like to think about the concept regardless, even if it's a dead end.
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Okay so I'm planning to wall mount my atx computer. My question is that would the components be safe if I just screw them directly on the spray painted plywood in terms of ESD?
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Hi everyone, I was browsing the web to refresh my knowledge about current pc parts (did not really follow the releases since I built my own pc, 4 years ago) and I was looking at cases designs. My lil' brother will soon be asking me to build him a proper gaming pc and since he always used MacBooks and iPhones for school I was looking out for some sleek looking white/wood cases or something along this theme. After some quick Googling nearly all I found was DIY projects... Do you guys know about brands/case models that use wood?
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I know there have been a lot of Desk PCs built on this forum and around the internet, but I have one complaint, the PCs are always awesome but the desks are often...meh. With this build I am building a live edge walnut slab desk then cutting it to shreds and putting in a way over the top water cooled PC. I have built the desk already and I made a video about it on my YouTube channel, but I won't link that here unless someone requests it (I don't want to break the self promotion rules) The system that is going into it features: Threadripper 1950x 64 GB of Corsair Dominator RGB 2x400 GP Corsair NVME SSD 2x1080TI Gigabyte Waterforce WB edition Gigabyte X399 Gaming 7 1200 Watt PSU from Corsair Full Hardline Acrylic water cooling loop for ModMyMods.com (mostly Alphacool components) Now let's chop this mother up!
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I just built a wooden pc case, would appreciate your input on it! Specs, in CASE you were wondering (sorry for the bad pun), i5 6500, gtx 1060 3gb, 8gb ram, 450w bronze psu, 500gb drive (system drive), 1tb drive, and msi b250m pro-vd.(If your wanting to build your own wooden pc case make sure you ground your motherboard to the psu shroud from one of the Moro screws)