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Showing results for tags 'wired'.
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Hi all So I've always had some sort of annoyance with the cable. My current cable is partially coiled but I do still get annoyed by straight ones. I won't go wireless (less weight, not having to worry about charge, responsiveness etc), and use a DAC as I do appreciate good sound. With and without the DAC I've run the cable in pretty much every route under and over the desk (including drilling holes for a clean run) with it always being in the way somehow. I've been using a Keychron Q11 for a couple of months now and really like it, having a split keyboard means I can run the cable down the middle which, I feel, has improved things immensely. It wasn't a consideration when buying the board but it was a very nice surprise. It still isn't "perfect" with my hanger being to the side, but I kind of feel that it's as close as I'll get, at least for the moment. How do the rest of you run your cable in a way that is at least satisfactory for you, or have you seen other methods you're interested in but have yet to try?
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So I already have the parts for my first desktop build but it can't be connected to the internet yet. Would it work if I connect a usb multiplier with a wifi adapter in one of the ports via ethernet back to the mobo so I can get stable wired connection at all times? My wifi has a lot of ping. I tried a powerline for my laptop but it had to be reset once every 2 to 3 days which was a pain in the bum. moCA isn't an option, mesh adapter I haven't tried before but they're a bit pricey. I can't move the router an inch let alone lay cables all over the house. Any thoughts?
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Right, had this problem almost a week now I've tried a lot of things troubleshooting wise, but I'll explain the problem first. I upgraded my pc recently, I changed the Mobo, Ram, CPU, GPU and PSU. Ever since upgrading I've been getting poor connection, I am able to connect to the internet, my speeds are fine my ping is fine. But I disconnect from several games within minutes of booting them up, Cod Warzone kicks me from server before I even hit the menu, Battlefield 4 does it within a minute or so, Faceit let's me join CSGO servers but the anti cheat disconnects and boots me from server. Also some web pages crash/can't be found after multiple refreshes they usually work. I've also had trouble connecting to windows update servers and more. But then on the other side, discord has worked perfectly fine all week, youtub videos play fine. I was able to play several hours of rust and am able to play CSGO on official matchmaking with no trouble. My current router is a Sagemcom Plusnet Hub One, not sure of model number but can find if necessary. My specs are as follows I5 10600K - Stock Corsair Vengeance DDR4 16GB 3200MHZ MSI Z490-A PRO 1080TI fe - Stock What already tried troubleshooting wise. - -I've reinstalled network adapters three times, twice with the Realtek 10.46.1231.2020 drivers. And once with windows suggest drivers which are 10.42.526.2020. -I also reinstalled graphic drivers, scanned and repaired both games. -Changed ethernet cables, tested for packet loss by doing ping test to my router and to google. Getting 0 packets lost on either 1ms response to my router and 33ms to google. -I also tried changing my preferred DNS, as well as doing a DNS flush. -Reset router, bought new ADSL filter box, New cat5e cables. -Tried seeing if disabling firewall & antivirus would help. -Tried setting new inbound rules for the mentioned games. -I tried Warzone/Bf4 with Firewall disabled on the router and in windows and the server still crashed before the main menu. -I've tried changing my DNS to 8.8.8.8 and my IPV6 is already disabled -I ran windows system file checker in cmd to see if there were any corrupted windows files causing the problem, but nothing was found. -I also ran window memory diagnostic tool, I wasn't sure if corrupt memory could or could not cause this, same thing nothing was found, but when I restarted windows I was forced to reset network settings again as I couldn't get any connection at all. But my problem still persists -I disabled windows auto-tuning as I heard that can cause connectivity issues and also tried disabling LSO large send offload on IPv4 and IPv6. -Also tried another fresh windows install.
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Hello! Running into a weird issue. Suddenly my wired connection (cat5e) is running into speed problems. I haven't changed hardware or cabling. my wired speedtest is sitting at 100mpbs, when it used to be 800-1000+ mpbs. my wireless remains at 600-700mbps. ** Upload speeds remain intact across 3 wired computers (100mbps). Shaw bridged > Asus RT-AC3100 > Switch AIProtection On. I did notice that the PC cannot detect proxy settings - not sure when this started happening. This is happening only on one computer. Other wired one is 800-1000 mbps. there is nothing eating up network resources according to resource monitor at idle. I've tried the CMD resets. Restart routers / shaw modem. disable / enable / update check network drivers. malware scan with SuperAntiSpyware & Malwarebytes. windows update (can't roll back Windows bc over 10 days ago). ** swapped cabling between "working" and affected PC. No change. Hopefully someone can help be diagnose this a bit better to see what is suddenly throttling my connection speed? I haven't made any significant changes recently - I just noticed the problem because my Steam download was abysmal (in the Kilobytes range). ** It really appears to be related to some new setting on my PC.
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I need a full size keyboard that has the standard size keys, where all keys are the same size because I cannot stand tiny keys mixed with normal sized keys. Need USB but I can find/but an adapter and it needs those flip up legs. I've worn this MSFT 3000 out to the point several keys have partial paint on them. I'd like a new KB but would settle for a reputable USED dealer. PS I have search about 2 hours per day for the last 4 days and I am worn out..Please give this 50 year old out of touch dude some klues. Thanks all who read this and can help!
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I'm looking for a controller that has bluetooth capabilities. I guess the obvious go to controller is a PS4 controller. But what do you guys have to say ? I want to connect through a wire for my desktop)and via bluetooth to play on my laptop (and maybe my phone if that's possible). I used to borrow a PS3 controller that was very adequate to these taks, i guess could just buy one. Anyway, what do you guys recommend ?
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My old mouse has recently started to be a bit faulty, so i would appreciate recommendations, thanks.
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I recently had issues with my computer's connectivity in this post. It worked fine for a little while after, but for the past couple of months, I haven't been able to put my computer to sleep as it would disconnect from Ethernet and wouldn't reconnect. I use powerline adapters (Tenda P6 Powerline Adapter), and I've noticed that they turn off when the computer goes to sleep, but even when they don't do so I still have the disconnecting problem. For a bit of time the commands shown in this video helped solve it, but they're not reliably fixing the problem anymore.
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So I'm having trouble finding 75% wired keyboards most that I see on amazon are wireless I'm a pvp guy so input lag is not my thing if you can find a wired 75% keyboard I would be happy thanks in advance
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I'll preface by saying I don't really understand audio formats and signals very well. The scenario I have is the following: I have a pc and a ps5, and I would like to use a single headset and I presume some sort of audio amplifier to be able to feed both audio signals into the amplifier. I don't need to be able to listen to both signals simultaneously, but I would like to be able to switch between the two seamlessly. What would you all recommend?
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I opened up my computer today and it was immediately trying to connect to my houses wifi instead of the ethernet it typically connects to. I tried restarting, and it did nothing. In device manager, the Realtek Gaming GbE Family Controller was greyed out and when I clicked on it, it showed the following: This happened a couple days ago as well. I opened up the computer and looked around, but didn't notice anything lose. However, when I put it all back together and checked the BIOS, the controller was there. This time, I checked the BIOS and the card was missing again. I don't want to have to take apart my computer every time this issue occurs, is there a better fix? I'm also in a part of the house that doesn't have great wireless connection so I need wired for a usable connection. Note: Here's the PC Specs according to Speccy Edit: Not sure if it's necessary information but the computer is a Desktop rather than a laptop. That may be evident by some of the other information presented but I wanted to clarify in case it was helpful information
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Im trying to connect my Xbox 1 controller to my pc using a wire and I’m thinking it should just be as easy as plugging it in. Is there any steps im missing because its not working.
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Howdy! Need some help choosing a part. I currently have a single DAC (Schiit Modi), and I'm wanting to split to 4 destinations (2 headphone AMPs, active desktop speakers, and to a receiver). Currently just using a bunch of Y-splits, and it's not pretty, lots of cable bulk, so I want a prettier solution. Ideally it's be purely passive, however I'm concerned with signal loss since I'm splitting to so many destinations (thus looking at a switch). Some stuff I've found so far (and my concerns): Nobsound RCA 1 to 4: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073RCRXPP | They use capacitors inline, and I don't want any other components inline Schiit Sys: https://www.schiit.com/products/sys | Not enough outputs - I'd love this if it it had 4 out GOHIFIAUDIO 4 to 1: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085W1PPHL | Concern over the quality of the switch aside (which is pretty big), reviews seem to indicate it can also go 1 to 4, but definitely some concern over general QA/build quality. Etsy seller: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1019976067/rca-splitter-box | This is likely what I want, but no idea on the internal connectivity, and no sales/reviews for this seller. TL;DR: Want a RCA 1 to 4 splitter/junction with quality components and no electronics involved (again, I'd go with the Schiit Sys if it had 4 out). Anyone come up with a good solution to this?
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Hey all, I recently moved to a new apartment that has ethernet jacks built in to the unit. I am not too familiar with these as the previous places I have lived have been too old to have them. To my understanding, as long as there are ethernet wires connecting my router to my PC, I should get a wired connection. The first time setting it up, I had a successful connection and was getting my advertised speeds of 400 Mbps. Great, problem solved? Nope, after a little gaming session on my wired connection I shut down my PC. The next day I booted up my PC and was greeted with no wired connection. Running the windows troubleshooting tool prompted a "connect an ethernet cable" solution. I double checked all my cables and restarted my router modem and PC and it solved the issue. I then shut my PC down and tried again a few hours later and was prompted with the same no connection. I attempted to troubleshoot to see if it was my PC but after connecting a long ethernet cord directly from the router to PC, it worked fine. I am asking to see what recommendations anyone has for assistance with this issue. I have attached a couple of pictures and a poorly drawn diagram made in MS Paint. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Note: I know this is the correct "bridged connection" in the "junction box" as this was the connection the couple of times it did work. Wall Port Near Router and Modem: "Junction Box": Diagram:
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I LOVE the ear shape and large size ear cups that are the Logitech G230 but I've already broke 2 of them because they break in randopm areas like clock work every 13-18 months. Is their a headset with ear cups that 100% surrounds the ears is a decent performer is wired and is under $70?? Please ask me anything If my words failed as they often do. thanks for your time.
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Hi forum! I'm looking at Xbox 360 Guitar Hero wired controllers, and they're insanely expensive, with used ones going for 150, in average condition, and new ones going for 300 dollars! I'm interested because I'm looking to stream Clone Hero soon, and came to the forum to see if there's anyone that makes a controller compatible with the game, possibly even custom, because if I'm going to pay 150+ I might as well make sure it works right? =) Hey, who knows, with any luck someone on the team can send the request up the chain, you miss 100% of the shots you don't take!
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Hello I recently built a new PC and I have been facing high ping in certain games since new PC was up and running. Used to get 5 ping on my local server in CSGO and Dota2, now each server has ~+30 ping, and some servers are now unplayable as my ping is now ~100 from usual 60-65. On my old system pings were fine but started facing 100%packet loss issues (maybe the patcher cable/port issue as the system was 3 year old) so I switched the patcher cable and nothing happened. I bought a TP-Link 300Mbps USB Adapter (TL-WN823N) and it had proper ping (60-65). Now my motherboard has Wifi too so I tried connecting using both wired and wireless, but I still face the ping issue. I also changed the port on my router, changed the patcher cable, nothing. Any advise? I never tweaked anything under network settings on old or new PC. Router: TP Link Archer A6 v2 firmware v1.1.5 (update to v1.1.7 pending) Old system: i3-7100+Hyper H410R Gigabyte GA-H110M-S2 with latest bios HyperX fury 8GB 2400Mhz x2 Asus Phoenix GTX 1050 Ti Antec EAG Pro 750W 80+G Samsung 860 Evo (Boot SSD) with additional Hard drives Windows 10 Pro. New system: Ryzen 7 5800x+ML360L v2 MSI MPG B550 Gaming Carbon Wifi G.Skill Trident Z RGB 8GB 3600Mhz C18 x2 Asus Phoenix GTX 1050 Ti Antec EAG Pro 750W 80+G Samsung 860 Evo (Boot SSD) with additional Hard drives Windows 10 Pro.
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So I've been having a problem with my old XBOX controller as the cable has completely split in two. So the most obvious answer in my head was to order a new micro USB cable to fit into it. However these wired xbox controllers have to come with a slight twist It's a normal chunky boi but I just realised there is a stupid bit of plastic going through the middle which won't fit in. I can't send it back and get a slim one because I had to sand down the edges to even get it to fit in but with the plastic in the way its just left me with further problems. I've attached some photos of the small bit of plastic just to let you understand what I'm talking about. Any ideas would be appreciated thanks!
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Im having an issue with my PS4 controller. My controller is acting like a mouse but its weirder then that, its only a mouse if i use a wireless connection (Bluetooth), but if i use a wired connection its normal, If i connect it with bluetooth and then i use a wire its switches between the two, after a bit it becomes a mouse again. Its really annoying, and i dont know how to fix it. Please help me with this problem.
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- controller
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I have a desktop for several years, that always gives me 28 ping in the speedtest, connected to the router thorough cable. There are two smartphones here at home that also get 28 ping, through wireless. Then I have a 10 year old laptop (asus notebook) that gets 16 ping doing the exact same test, using the same wireless network as the smartphones. I suspect there might be some glitch somewhere with the laptop, or is this possible?
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Hello Community, I've been playing competitive games on PC for years and my current headset (HyperX Cloud II) has served me incredibly well over the last 2 years. I am building a new pc so I would like to upgrade to something better. I have read and heard numerous times that I should not buy another "gaming" headset and instead by studio headphones for the sound quality. I agree with these statements but I have no clue what studio headphones to get. My budget is around 350$ so I know there must be plenty of options. I am looking to get a nice pair of wireless headphones but If that is too big of a sacrifice for quality then I am also fine with staying wired. I just tested the Arctis Pro Wireless today and after trying over and over to find the correct settings for the equalizer I decided they still weren't worth the $329.99 for the audio quality that I adjusted it to. Please help me find an absolute banger of a headset that I can use for another 2 years. ALSO this headset will only be used for gaming and listening to music. That is all. Edit: Sorry I accidentally submitted the unfinished post with random keys. This is the full edit of it ^^^^^^^^^^^^. (also wow you guys reply fast).
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I have an ASUS RT-AC1200G+ as an access point from an ASUS RT87U (on 1Gbps fiber) The access point needs to service; 1 gaming PC, 1 PS4, 1 Xbox, 2 phones, 3 laptops (not all at the same time of course) Main gaming happens on the PC and the PS4 so those need the most stable connection. Was thinking of wiring one of the laptops/PS4 and the gaming PC to the router. The rest on wireless. Would this compromise the WiFi capabilities or would just using WIFI on all the devices be better?
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Looking for a Mechanical keyboard for traveling to and from work, also to be used when overseas (whenever that happens again). So i'm looking for a smaller board with these requirements, never had anything less then a full keyboard before so it will be a change. Main driver at home is k70 with cherry red but im up for anything. I've looked at the velocifire series, the M2 looks interesting, the Qisan 60%, the Keychron and the Anne pro 2. But ive got not that much of an idea on what i should be looking for in these smaller boards, including if they are wireless the benefits between bluetooth and wireless. Cheers for your help gang
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is there a way to convert a wireless microphone into a hard wired microphone? and how? microphone is not bluetooth and the wireless part about it is broken that's why i want to make it wired
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Hey- I'm looking for a good combination of a headphone+accesories for under $450 to listen to LoFi and game on, mainly (No gaming headphone please)!Currently I'm looking at 6xx's with the Schitt stack (magni 3+ and the modi), but I was wondering if I could go wireless and still get a similar experience, with something like the Drop+THX panda wireless since my old wireless headphones (Hear.on.2's) are getting a bit old and don't fit super well on me anymore. I do travel a fair bit and like to have good audio at hand while I travel, but I would prioritize sound quality over portability, being honest. Any help is appreciated, and my mind is open to new recommendations!
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