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Showing results for tags 'windows10'.
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I couldn't see a topic with the key details of my scenario in mind, so I apologise if this is re-treading old ground. I've made a new computer (Intel i5 12600K, RX 6600XT ((got it during silicon shortage, FOMO got me good)), and components which seem fairly reasonably complimentary ((Z690 DDR4 board, 32GB of G.Skill memory, etc.)), first fully independent build, too). I made it *successfully*, too, booted to Windows (10) without issues as I followed the Last Guide I'll Ever Need. A problem happened when I installed extra hard drives afterwards; wasn't the drives that seemed to be the issue (I've spent days of troubleshooting to narrow the issue down, that's not my main concern at this point), but it seems like I might have had static discharge on the motherboard, and it no longer boots into Windows, and doesn't seem to be reparable in a way I am capable of under my current circumstances. I'm not prepared to wait for a month whilst seeing if I can claim my warranty, so I bought a new motherboard, and a question just occurred to me. My question is this: is it possible that I can take the OS drive, the one I intended to use and still want to use, which again is brand new and freshly OS-ed, and just *slap it in* without much concern? I imagine getting a fresh drive, or clearing that OS drive and starting again might be a cleaner process, but this would be *super* convenient for me if I could just shove it in without worry. The SSD, if this has any bearing on this problem, is a Samsung 970 EVO Plus, NVMe and 1TB SSD. If the answer is "WHOA THERE DON'T DO THAT YOU'LL FRY YOUR LOCAL POWER GRID" or something less hyperbolic, how would I clear my OS drive to either repurpose it, or reinstall the OS onto it cleanly? The installation process would be fine, I have the materials for it, but clearing the drive I'm not familiar with. Thanks, in advance, and make sure to ground yourself like a smart person, rather than juggling hard drives like a clown with two motherboards. -
Hi, I have a laptop (ASUS TUF Gaming A17 - A17-TUF706IHRB-HX037 on Windows 10) that sometimes (not too often) has micro freezes and touchpad issues (the touchpad acts as if there's a ghost finger interfering, not moving, just there, meaning if I'm moving the mouse over some files and it happens, it might act as if I'm selecting a bunch of files), I don't know if both issues are related. I used the MyAsus program to contact Asus support. I followed their instructions which was GPU driver update, or reinstalling the Asus touchpad drivers (forgot its name). That didn't help. So they said I should sent it to them. However they said it might take up to a month)and I've seen comments online saying they take quite a while). There's also the worry that they see that I opened the laptop to add a nvme ssd and just say something like "warranty void, not my problem anymore good luck" and had it sent for nothing. And on top of that, mailing a laptop to them, then back to me is in of itself a risk of damage to it... Do you have any suggestions on how to fix or at least find out why or what causes this? Thx.
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I have tried to remove my windows.old because is using 30GB of storage. First it dident got "Scanned" in Diskcleanup or over the settings menu over Windows Settings so I gave myself ownership over the propertys tab and now is in the Trashbin but actually not. Its like "Ghost data". I used Wiztree to confirm it and it still there. I can even open it over it. My Specs are: Windows 10 Pro 64 bit X570 Aorus Elite AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 2x8GB Corsair RAM GTX 1080 Ti
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Hello there, Can you run Windows To Go on a motherboard does not support USB 3.0 natively? I would like to load Windows To Go on the SSD and installed on the SATA to USB 3.0 adapter, and launch Windows 10 OS from there. However, the motherboard which does not have USB 3.0 ports natively, so I bought an external SATA to USB 3.0 adapter, and with a spare SSD, I would like to boot off from the SSD using this adapter by loading Windows 10 Windows To Go. Since the motherboard does not have USB 3.0 port, I went and bought a USB 3.0 to PCI-e Host Bus Adapter(HBA) which can be inserted into the PCI-e x1 slot of the motherboard. I installed the spare SSD into the SATA to USB 3.0 adapter with enclosure case. Hooked up the case to back of the USB 3.0 to PCI-e HBA. Little to I know that, when I have connected the external SATA to USB 3.0 adapter, the UEFI BIOS of the motherboard could not recognize or detect the SSD was present, and hence I cannot boot off the SSD via USB 3.0 HBA and run Windows 10 installation. To isolate the problem is not from my motherboard, I tested the same hardware on another PC which has USB 3.0 port, and everything works as expected. How to solve this problem? Thank you. Update: attached photos of my motherboard & HBA
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Hi, it’s my first time posting here since googling has helped solve any issues I’ve had in the past, but this one has stumped me. with some games like valorant now requiring secure boot and TPM 2.0, aswell as windows 11 needing it, I thought I’d enable it like many friends and websites suggested me to. upon enabling FTPM in my bios it completely bricked my windows boot drive. Using other drives have worked but my main nvme SSd refuses to show that it has windows at all. Using a windows install media repair on a flash drive just says there is no windows available to repair. Here are my specs in case there’s a glaring issue I didn’t see when researching compatibility. Ryzen 9 5900x asus rog strix b550-f WiFi 16gb gskill tridentz neo Samsung 980 nvme ssd I’m praying someone else has had this problem before cause I have no idea what to do now, and haven’t heard of this happening to anyone else. any help is appreciated!!!
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For the past couple years, every time I do something hardware intensive (like playing a game), Desktop window Manager will start spiking up and using almost 100% of my GPU, dropping me down to like 1fps. Over the years I've tried countless methods online (like reinstalling old gpu drivers), but nothing has ever fixed it. The only thing that kinda helps is disabling my Nvidia GPU and just using my integrated graphics, but even then my frames still drop sometimes on Youtube/Firefox (and without my NVIDIA Gpu on, I can't even play most graphically intensive games). Client Service Runtime Process also runs in parallel with it, but it causes much less harm. PC SPECS: Laptop Model: Dell Inspiron XPS 15 9560 64-bit operating system, x64-based processor windows 10 Version 22H2 (OS Build 19045.3155) CPU = i7-7700HQ 2.80Ghz, 4 cores, 8 logical processors 16GB of Ram Nvidia GPU: GTX 1050 (Version 31.0.15.3623) Integrated GPU: Intel HD Graphics 630 (Version 27.20.100.9664) 130w Power Adapter (idk if this matters, but my laptop battery died like a few years ago, so its always plugged in. I can't remember if this was a problem before it died) Dell BIOS Version: 1.24.0 (windows says theres an optional firmware update, but the version looks like the exact same version I already have) Some screenshots are below of dwm using tons of gpu randomly while I'm just using firefox. If you want, I can try to get a screenshot of it when I have a game open and my Nvidia Gpu on. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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I've found tons of tutorials on how to recover data and switch a GPT drive to MBR, but I can't do that in this case. I'm trying to move some data between drives right now, because of a lack of SATA ports I'm having to use a USB enclosure for some of them. I soon will also have to get a new motherboard and I want to fresh install Windows. Using the USB enclosure with the same machine or swapping drives between machines is causing the drive to lock up as a "GPT Protective Partition." But I can't just make everything MBR because that only supports drives up to 2TB and most of the ones I'm working with are larger. Is there a way to just disable this stupid feature so a drive containing non-sensitive data can just be read by any machine? I don't even see the point since tons of applications can just recover the data on a protective partition. I can't find any info on if there's a way to format GPT without the drives becoming protective. This isn't really about how to deal with my drives right now, I can deal with it, I just want to save myself this headache in the near future. Thanks for any help.
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So, my Windows 10 computer (Aorus B450 Elite V2, Ryzen 3600, 16GB Corsair Vengeance RAM, RTX 2070, Samsung 970 Evo M.2 1TB) just randomly decided to restart earlier and remained on the Aorus Windows loading screen for almost 15 minutes before I decided to power cycle it. Now, I know that probably wasn't the smartest course of action, but my computer is no stranger to boot loops and power cycling usually works. And either way, I had no reason to believe the computer was updating or doing anything like that. Anyway, now when I boot up the computer, it still just sticks on the Windows loading screen with the Aorus logo. I've tried power cycling it 3 times to get to Automatic Repair, but after seeing the Automatic Repair text pop up, the screen shortly becomes void of anything but the Windows loading wheel and it never actually continues on to the repairs. Luckily, I have both Windows 10 and Ubuntu USB drives, but while the computer loads into Ubuntu no problem (I can even access my boot drive just fine, and I can't find any evidence of corruption) it refuses to load the Windows 10 USB. All that happens is that the Windows 10 logo pops up with the loading wheel for a few seconds, then fades away, and gets stuck on a black screen until I restart my computer. So, what the heck? I get that maybe I interrupted Windows during an update and that's why I can't boot into my install, but why wouldn't my computer be able to load the USB? I even made another one using my backup PC in case maybe my usual Windows USB got corrupted or something, but even it's not working. I'm honestly at my wit's end. I've never had this happen. I've tried switching BIOS legacy mode off and on again but it doesn't appear to be doing anything. Does anyone have any ideas?
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I’m looking for a way to install and play and old horror game called “Mysteriet på Greveholm” from 1997 in Windows 10. The game was originally released on CD-ROM but has been converted into an .ISO-file. Here’s a link to a YouTube video with a download link in the video description: Here’s a direct download link: https://archive.org/download/mystery-at-greveholm/Mystery at Greveholm%2C The (1997)(Young Genius)(M10)[Mac-PC].iso < removed by moderator > The question is, how do I play this in Windows 10? I do really appreciate all help I can get. This game was my childhood.
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I'm unsure about the specific error I'm facing, so let me provide some context. In the past, when I first started using Windows 10 Home on my prebuilt desktop computer, I had the freedom to open and use any browser I wanted. At that time, my computer came with an account that had no email assigned to it. To make the account feel more personal, I assigned my email, the same one I use for my Microsoft account, to it. However, a couple of days later, I encountered an issue. If I recall correctly, when I tried to open Chrome, a Windows warning message appeared, stating that browsers may contain 18+ content. I closed the prompt, but from that point onwards, whenever I attempted to open a non-Microsoft Edge browser, I would receive an error message consisting of random letters, numbers, symbols, hex codes, and file locations. Upon closing the error message, the non-Edge browsers would also close. Later, I remembered the 18+ content message and discussed it with my mother. We discovered that the Microsoft family permissions on my account were accidentally set to restricted. My mother changed the settings back to the intended unrestricted level, resulting in the non-Edge browsers closing without any error messages. What made it particularly strange was that after my PC started up, the non-Edge browsers would open and function properly for a while. However, after some time, they would automatically close, just like closing any window using the X button, without any forceful termination. This happened at a normal speed. Hoping for a resolution, I upgraded to Windows 11, but unfortunately, the exact same issue persists, along with the same closing behaviour. I've noticed that this problem doesn't occur on new accounts without any assigned emails or with unused email addresses of mine. However, I'm eager to identify the specific error and explore possible solutions, preferably without having to create a new account and go through the hassle of moving terabytes of games into different folders or similar actions. I have had this problem for 3 years.
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Okay so my girlfriend was downloading a game from Steam and her laptop froze, after 2 minutes of 0 changes, she hard restarted it and it went to error 0xc000000e. The Win10 is installed on SSD, she has 2nd install of windows10 on hard drive from before upgrading, so she booted there, was unable to log in to microsoft account a was unable to find files located on desktop. So we made a windows instalation media on USB flash drive, tried to refresh the installation so she wouldn't lose the data, but the option did not go through and wrote "The drive Where Windows is installed is locked. Unlock the drive and try again." We then tried Repair startup and System image recovery, but got about the same result. Then we moved onto next guides to "Command Prompt" where we tried "bootrec /RebuildBcd, where after selecting our desired C: instalation of windows of the 2 found installs we got prompt "The requested system device cannot be identified, because there are multiple devices that apply to the criteria" approximately translated. We then tried "chkdsk C: /f /x /r", that gone thru fine, but did nothing useful. Then we tried "bootrec /FixMbr" operation succesful, "bootrec /FixBoot" Where we got that access is denied and "bootrec /ScanOs where it found both Win10 installs. We also tried sfc /scannow but that didn't really do anything. I found some guide on internet that solves this or similiar issue with error 0xc000000e and drive that cannot be identified by selecting and deleting one of the found System partitions, creating new EFI partition, fat32 formatting the second System partition, assigning drive letters and creating boot files. Is that something that could work? We really kinda need to not lose the data on the disk so we try to avoid doing clean installs or wiping the data elsehow. Thanks for advices in advance.
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I'm trying to create a USB bootable W10 v1703 using only the Recovery portion of the iso file. I don't need it to install Windows, only need it for troubleshooting Windows. I can't remember if the Recovery image is in the install.wim or boot.wim or maybe somewhere else. Anyhow, is this possible, and will it decrease the size of the iso? I know removing other OS versions from install.wim does not significantly decrease the size because they all share common files within the install.wim. But since I only need the Recovery image and not any of the other OSs, I'm hoping this will allow a much smaller iso.
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Note: I have a dell inspiron 3670 I am a windows 10 user 3200 mhz 16 GB ram (That I think is causing the problem) intel i3-8100 CPU that supports up to 2666mhz Integrated graphics I am not big into computers, but I just want to know if the MHZ is causing the problem. This has happened ever since I have installed my new ram, and the old ram doesn't do this. Would 3200 MHZ on a 2400 - 2666 MHZ i3-8100 cpu be causing this glitching problem? Please let me know, thanks!
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So I get 23Mb/s D speed and 6Mb/s U speed with no network programs active, but when I download a game on steam/xbox/epic it downloads it at <3Mb/s????. I looked in task manager and it shows service host: network service is using almost all of my bandwidth. I've turned off delivery optimization, the only sub task running in it, and it still hasn't fixed my issue. Could anyone please tell me what's causing this and what options i have to fix this?
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Hey everyone, My device Specs are: Surface Pro 7, Windows 10 AX201 Wireless Adapter + Bluetooth Adapter I was attempting to set up bluetooth passthrough for the Dolphin Wii Emulator. Ended up using Zadig program to change out the drivers without thinking, ended up replacing my bluetooth adapters' driver with WinUSB. I no longer care about getting the bluetooth adapter to work for dolphin (have a J27H002 chip on the way) but I do want to revert it back to normal state. It appears to be completely dysfunctional. This is probably because it isn't a USB device, and the software side of things are destroyed. The troubleshooting I've tried so far includes: -Restarting Device Several Times -Uninstalling device in device manager several times (and then restarting device) -Reinstalling Intel's AX201 drivers (and then restarting device) -Attempting to use Zadig to change drivers to anything else (Attempt fails). -Running Win10 Bluetooth Troubleshoot -Running Win10 Overall device troubleshooter Thank you for any help or guidance you can offer! Thanks!
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My windows 10 hang today on startup for about 10 minutes, taskbar was empty and unresponsive, in Task Manager there were no processes that were using any CPU, it 1% CPU usage. After the hang ended in Event Viewer I saw this error 4 times: The program explorer.exe version 10.0.19041.2913 stopped interacting with Windows and was closed. To see if more information about the problem is available, check the problem history in the Security and Maintenance control panel. I installed and run Malwarebytes, it didn't found anything. Are there any recent knows issues (bugs/ recent windows 10 updates) ?
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I just built a new pc and I was wondering if I can just move my old ssd with windows 10 as a boot drive and all my stuff to my brand new one.
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[Specs listed below] Hi all, I have had this problem for about a month and change now but only got around to looking into it now. I swapped out my old GTX 980 for an ARC 750 and ever since then when I go to restart inside Windows the screens go black and then nothing happens. If I do a hard reset via the case button the computer boots up just fine. I just spent last night and this morning taking the entire computer apart and rebuilding it as well as doing a fresh Windows 11 install on a brand new NVMe drive. The problem is still persisting, I swapped out the ARC for an old RX270 card I had laying around and the problem continues with that card too. I took out the SATA card and disconnected all the other SATA drive connections to see if any of them were causing the issue but no improvement. I have checked to see if there is maybe a short but everything appears fine. Like I said above, the computer will turn on and boot just fine through the case buttons, but Windows reset wont work. SPECS: AMD Ryzen 3900X Asus x570-P (latest firmware) 96 GB RAM Intel ARC 750 Sandisk 480GTB SSD Team Group 480GB SSD SATA PCIe x1 card 8 port Corsair HX850i PSU
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Hi, I made a silly mistake. I have two Windows 10 installs. My new primary install (OS A) is on an NVMe drive, and an old install (OS B) is on a 2.5" SSD. My PC can boot to either OS, so I logged onto OS B and started ripping some data out and backing up the files I wanted to keep. This effort is in preparation for completely removing the old install. Nothing from OS B is on the new NVMe drive, so to prevent me from making mistakes, I thought to remove modify permissions from this drive (allocated as E:\ in OS B), thinking it would only stop OS B from making changes. The moment I clicked confirm, I realised that it might not actually go to plan, so I quickly cancelled it. So now, some files have had their permissions changed, but not all. OS A still boots, and I can access quite a few files on the NVMe drive (C:\ in OS A), but only if I access them through paths that still have permissions; I can not browse from the root of C:\. I figure that this should be an easy fix. I could modify permissions again from OS A and set ownership of the disk, and revert the permissions. Unfortunately, when trying to elevate to Administrator privileges on the "Advanced Security Settings for Local Disk" window, there is a long delay (a few minutes) followed by an error message regarding not having permissions to access a specific file on C:\ required to elevate privileges. I enlisted GPT4 to run me through a recovery plan and audited the commands it suggested. It all seems above board and mirrored some advice I saw on answers.microsoft.com. The plan included running commands from safe-mode command prompt such as: net user administrator /active:yes takeown /F C:\ /R /D Y icacls C:\ /grant:r "Administrators:(OI)(CI)F" /T icacls C:\ /inheritance:e /T These commands ran successfully, and I was hopeful the problem was fixed. Alas, the issue persists. So I am reaching out for some tips to fix this without losing all of the data and OS settings. What should I do? Thanks.
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Hello everyone I have an PC with an I7-6700k and an MSI GTX1080 its about 3 maybe 4 years old and i started encountering issues: Explanation: Recently I've started getting huge lag spikes in games that basicly makes them unplayable. For example lets say im playing Overwatch (it hapens in every other game aswell) the same settings I've always played on since it came out (https://prosettings.net/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/Overwatch-Graphic-Settings.jpg) here is a link to the same settings. So one day im playing without any issues and suddenly my game CRASHES, this is the first time a game ever crashed on this PC which confused me but i sad okay it happens then i restarted the game got back in but the game kept going fom 400fps down to 1fps and back to 200fps and so on and so forth, it was just jumping all arround the place and when i took a look at the task manager i saw that my gpu was running at 99% usage!! And ever since that day im unable to play any game without lagging my GPU immediatly jumps to above 80% usage but temps stay normal. Troubleshooting: - At first I thought maybe its thermals but nope its running fine arrund 65-75 degrees celcius and there is not dust on it or in it - Then i thought it was drivers so I unninstalled drivers from Windows10 device manager reinstalled new ones but it didn't help the same problem persisted - I tried Googling the problem but changing the settings didn't help (https://prnt.sc/zwr21o) here is what i changed - If anyone is wondering no I haven't changed any parts in my pc since i bought it so there could be no bottlenecking - I also installed all windows updates which didn't resolve any issues Conclusion: I have no idea what might be causing these issues with my GPU and I really need help with it, I will be responding underneath the thread providing any additional information you might need and i will be updating the thread with new information. Please help ***************************************************** Me from the future who fixed the issue (it was something wrong with the drivers) - removed the gpu from the pc - removed the CMOS battery and cleared it by holding power button on my case - added back the battery started the pc, display port now plugged in to motherboard - by using display driver unninstaller i unninstalled all the drivers for my gpu and removed all related software - inserted the gpu back in to the pc - turned it on installed NVIDIA drivers and it was all back to normal -
Tried logging on to my pc yesterday and it told me my pin was incorrect, nobody has access to or knows how to even change my password so I’m confused what’s happened, haven’t found any helpful videos or information online
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So to start off I'm new to PC building I had help from a friend with picking the parts and installing them but didn't have a USB with windows on, after now getting on I unplugged all my HDDs so I can install onto just an SSD, it went through the setup and all looked good until I removed my USB and restarted and was met with a brief black screen with _ on and then the options for boot menu / bios settings etc. When selecting boot menu I can see my SSD shows the menu: "Windows Boot Manager (WD_BLACK SN850X 1000GB)" "WD_BLACK SN850X 1000GB" but selecting either of these is met with the same "_" screen. I contacted my friend who advised to try get back into the windows installer now be reinserting the USB but now I can't even get to windows setup, we tried removing the battery from the motherboard to reset the bils, tried every combination of Legacy Only / UEFI Only on the Storage Boot Option Control but I've got nowhere in 6 hours, google is a minefield and gives me so many different options I'm even more confused. Attached are some relevant lictures but I'm honestly so clueless and my first PC build turned into a nightmare quickly..
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Hello! I had a question about how to go about the windows fresh install process if I wanna use the old storage devices The fresh install process itself seems straightforward (download the media from microsoft and add it to a usb flash drive after youve formatted the flash drive, put the stick in new PC and install it to fresh storage device) However, i have a 1tb m.2 drive, an empty 500 gb SATA drive, and a 2 TB HDD, and the 1TB m.2 drive has all my windows installation files as well as other program files and important stuff that i frequently access Will a clean windows install require me to format that 1TB m.2 drive? (and thus necessitate some file backing up beforehand). Or would the windows installation media on the flash drive simply overwrite the old installation and leave the others intact? If the former, would it be a good idea to clone my 1tb drive to my 500gb drive with something like macrium reflect as a means of backing up? I actually used it the other way around to get the 500 gb contents to the 1tb drive -
i just built a brand new computer with a clean install of windows 10 pro that sometimes freezes when i do light tasks, like browsing the web, or if it is idle. When it happens; first there will be a delay with commands i give the computer. then i cant interact with a program but i can still open/close programs. then i cant do anything other than moving the mouse around. then the screen goes black, but the computer never turns off. i am forced to hold the power button until it does a force shut down. this all happens in about 20-30 sec. at first i thought that it was a memory leak, so i kept task manager running in the background. the memory stays at about 6GB (out of 32) the time i checked and it still crashed. now here is the weird thing; this only happens when i do light tasks. never when i play games. it also happens about once or twice a day, so not supper often. but still annoying. (my computer is on most of the day) idk if this is relevant, but there was one day where the computer would not post. the ASUS motherboard gave me an error code 42. asus support told me to reseat the RAM stick which allowed the computer to turn on again. weirdly after that it didnt crash for a week. and now it is crashing again. could be a coincidence. Everything in my computer is new except for the GPU. so i dont know where to begin. is there a way for me to see what happened in the background during the crash after i reboot the computer? like a log? what can be the cause? here are my specs AMD ryzen 7 7700x GTX 1080TI Asus b650e motherboard (with the newest bios update as of February) 32GB (2x16) of 6000mhz corsair vengeance rgb pro 1tb of m.2 SSD with a clean install of windows10 pro
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I keep getting this same error wrong file size when trying to install windows 10 to a blank hard drive . I have a USB that I have used to get 3 different windows 10 versions using the media selection tool from Microsoft website. None of them have worked. I have it set to first boot device USB. The computer I'm using has another hard drive that I was sold with it containing a pirated windows 10 which I didn't want to use. Can someone help me get this working please. I want a clean version of windows 10 on my PC.
