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  1. After installing windows 10 onto a USB drive via my Chromebook it can no longer be detected through said Chromebook
  2. Hi everyone, Like the title says, right clicking for context menu on desktop, or creating a new folder (in file explorer or when saving something in that window). I'm using Windows 10 Enterprise, version 22H2 19045.3516. What I've done already done: Checking CrystalDiskInfo to see of my two Samsung 1Tb NVMe drivers are doing okay. One is a Samsung OEM ROG generic one (2y old) the other is 970 EVO (~5y old, I think). SMART say both 98-99% good. Did the extended way of sfc /scannow a few times, sometimes it fixes things other times it will find no fault. (With the Chris Titus Tech Ultimate Windows Tool) Wiped the free space on both SSDs, I know this is not a good thing, but I found that sometimes this helps. DDU videodrivers and reinstalled them. My hardware is ROG Strix G15 513QM (AMD 5900HX with 3060 Mobile 6Gb and 32Gb of ram). I'm using this laptop mainly for school and I know I should format and reinstall Windows. But that's a real pain now, I need my laptop and everything installed to do assignments and projects. So I'm hoping I can find a way to fix it. My Windows install is just the way I can work productively. Hoping someone has a tip for me Thank in advance Kinds regards roopx
  3. system config: windows 10 64bit i9-10850k 3.60ghz overclocked RTX 3080 32gbs ddr4 PCIe SSD Windows will randomly crash while I'm basically doing anything although it mostly does it when I tab off of kovaaks. I ran a chdsk in command prompt and restarted, windows will now freeze on preparing to diagnose or diagnosing. It will also have trouble booting often freezing on boot and I will have to shutdown and restart multiple times before I'm allowed in, I thought the random crashing during tabbing out of games was a ram issue and removed what I believe is a corrupted ram stick that solved the problem for a few days now windows is blue screening with the error code SYSTEM_THREAD_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED it still freezes on boot and if it doesn't freeze it tries to automatically diagnose the disk which it will quickly freeze in the process. I tried to uninstall the recent windows update and it froze on that as well I'm thinking it may be a motherboard issue but I wanted to come here first.
  4. Throughout my years of using Windows, I've consistently had frustrating experiences with its Wi-Fi drivers. They often take a painfully long time to connect to an access point and occasionally even crash the Windows Explorer, causing the Quick Settings menu to freeze. It's puzzling that something as basic as Wi-Fi isn't more reliable and speedy on Windows, especially given the amount of time it's been around. When I first tried Linux, I was pleasantly surprised by how smoothly the same Wi-Fi card performed. This really highlights a significant drawback for Windows.
  5. Hello dear people, Soon I'm getting a laptop returned to me that was stolen from me by family (well, whooptiedoo, isn't family great?), and before using it or selling it on, I want to check it for malicious software. The one who stole it isn't that tech savvy, but her boyfriend is, sorta. So, are there any programs to sniff out any malicious software besides a normal virusscanner? Or is it better to do a full re-install? It's a 2020 15" Lenovo Ideapad with a recovery partition (last time I saw it).
  6. Hi, i really don't know where to seek help so i'm writing here. i hope you guys will be able to help me! i am running 4 monitors on a gigabyte gaming 4090, previously i used to have a strix 3090 and didn't have this problem, untill the card fried and i had to change it. my problem consists in being unable to select 10bpc on my main monitor, it's the only monitor running in 4k and it's an acer predator XB273KGPbmiipprzx. On my 3090 things would boot up like normal, the other 3 monitors would be in 1080p 60hz and my main monitor would be in 4k 60hz at 10bpc. as soon as i switched to this 4090, every monitor boots like normal bar for my main, it goes to 59.997 10 bpc. This of course wouldn't be a big problem, but as soon as i try to change the refresh rate to 60hz it goes down to 8bpc. and if i try to change the refresh rate to 119,910hz (120 of course) it reverts immediately to 60hz. This got me wondering if it was a cable problem, but this occured as soon as swapping gpus. i did change the cable after, but it was a problem that already presented itself even without a new cable. When i unplug the screen and plug it back again, i am able to select 4k 60hz 10bpc and even go to 4k 120hz 8bpc. This got me thinking that when my pc boots, the screen is "stuck" in DP 1.2 mode, even if the OSD says it's on 1.4 i am theorizing this because the behaviour i described is that of a monitor in DP 1.2 mode (as far as my knowledge goes at least, feel free to correct me please i am desperate for a solution) . However when i plug it back in, as i said, it suddenly behaves like DP 1.4 and my options are all back. I can even open the monitor OSD and fiddle with the DP 1.1/1.2/.14 setting, it will work (i guess because it counts as unplugging and plugging it back in). i am at my wit's end, i am not an expert by any means and i feel like i have exhausted my possibilites, google wasn't much help, the fact that i didn't know how to explain it properly for a search to be successful certainly contributed. I don't know if they can help troubleshoot, but this are some of my specs (if you guys need any more just tell me and i will provide!): Motherboard: Asus dark hero VIII Ram: G.Skill F4-3600C16D-32GTZNC Gpu: Gigabyte Gaming 24gb 4090 (not OC) Cpu: ryzen 9 5950X Already tried the DDU drill and that didn't help. I really would love to be able to just boot my pc and have it like it was without having to do all that, if any of you guys could help... it would be great! thanks in advance!
  7. When I start my pc, I get to the sign-in screen, and after entering the PIN I get the "The User Profile Service service failed the sign-in. User profile cannot be loaded" I looked it up, and it said to first restart the pc, which did not work, then I was told to enter safe mode, but I do not seem to be able to do that. I have tried continuously turning on and off the pc as well as holding the shift button while pressing restart. Keep in mind that I can not get past the sign-in screen. I have the Huawei Matebook X Pro (2019) and I am using Windows 10.
  8. Just updated my Windows 10 laptop a few days ago and noticed it has started booting up to the log in screen instead of the usual welcome screen where you click or press enter before the log in screen shows. I didn't configure it to go straight to the log in screen. Did Microsoft made it official to go straight to the log in screen after booting up?
  9. Since very recently every time I Open a browser or start my Apache server or if I do anything in my PC, I get this Window. What is going on?
  10. Intro Hopefully I find the answer to my issue and perhaps maybe it will help others as well who experiences this issue, as I could not find anything on the internet close to my problem. I will post my specs and also what I attempted to do to fix this all the way below. I've tried my very best to troubleshoot this issue, but there's literally no sign of anything wrong anywhere... I even asked repair services near me about this and nobody can help me. The Problem Basically, once every 2 to 4 months, my computer starts freezing up like crazy. Nothing responds anymore. It can occur when I just booted it, but it can also occur late at night before I go to bed. Then, what I do is I shut it down. If it happens in the morning, I just reboot it straight away. When it happens late at night, I go to bed and the next morning I boot it up again. Upon reboot, I see my ASUS logo and the loading dots... then black screen. Basically, I can access the BIOS but nothing else. In the bios, everything seems fine. It sees my hard drive, cpu, ram, etc everything looks good. But now the weird thing is... the more times I reboot, the more I "advance" to booting up Windows. So for example, when you reboot it a few times, I can get to the Troubleshooting screen... screenshot 1 But then what happens is if I click on "Troubleshoot", it would freeze AGAIN. Can't do anything. So I restart the process etc... and over time, the more I restart, it would freeze at the next step. Example: After getting to this (screenshot 1) screen 20 times and freezing, eventually the 21st (random number btw) time I can get pass it. So now I'm in the advanced options (screenshot 2). screenshot 2 Then same thing, it freezes. After 100 more attempts, I eventually manage to boot in safe mode. By that time, it took around 2 hours of simply rebooting back again. In safe mode, same thing, it would get stuck. Eventually, I can get through. Once I'm in safemode on the user login screen, everything is unresponsive. Keyboard, mouse, freezing like crazy. After rebooting times and times again... (probably at 3-4 hours mark by then), I can eventually log in safe mode. Once I'm logged in safemode, I reboot my computer and everything is perfectly normal like nothing ever happened. All it takes is rebooting... a lot of rebooting. No matter what I do, nothing works. Only rebooting does. What I tried - Unplugging every single device from my computer (USBs, mouse, keyboard, headphones, etc...) - Once I eventually get to windows, I run these commands "sfc /scannow", "chkdsk", "DISM" and everything is fine. - Also ran memtest64, everything is fine. - Event Viewer in Windows gives me a bunch of critical error but these are all the same and doesn't say anything ("Task Scheduling Error: Continuously busy for more than a second" and "The system has rebooted without cleanly shutting down first" and things about the system being slow & freezing for unexpected reasons). - Unplugging the computer completely for a minute and reboot it again. I also tried to boot from my USB drive to see if it worked, but I always ended up booting on my nvme instead, even though I specifically selected the USB drive in the bios, and by the time I did that anyways it was already too late. Thoughts At this point, I suspect either Windows 10 failing on me, or my nvme to be failing for some odd reason. In the case of Windows 10, I don't know why rebooting it doesn't fix the freezing, perhaps windows 10 is able to keep some state/data running even though my computer has no power? In the case of the nvme, usually if it was the nvme it wouldnt happen once every 2-4 months. It would be more regularly and I'd even say it wouldn't be booting at all. It's annoying because since it happens so "rarely", it's very difficult to troubleshoot accordingly. Specs OS: Windows 10 CPU: Intel® Core i9 10900 w/ Noctua NH-D15S Cooler RAM: Corsair VENGEANCE LPX DDR4 3600 32GB GPU: EVGA RTX3080Ti 12G FTW3 ULTRA Motherboard: Asus PRIME Z590-A Power Supply: EVGA 750BQ 750W Main Drive: KINGSTON SNVS1000G NV1 NVMe Case: Thermaltake Versa C21 Monitors: MSI Optix MAG272C 27 inches 165Hz 1ms Curved Monitor (x2) [1080p HD] Mouse: Logitech Pro X SUPERLIGHT Keyboard: Logitech G213
  11. Hello all, I'm having something of an odd issue with the system I just built. I typically put my system to sleep after usage so I don't have to log into all my applications again when I return. The issue I'm experiencing is that when I wake the PC from sleep via USB, wake timer, or using the power button the lights on the graphics card and all the fans turn on like it should, but the displays don't turn on or act as though there is a video source. Any USB devices appear such as the light on the mouse coming on but things like my headphones don't indicate they have connected to the dongle. What I find the most confusing is that the PC will stay on in this configuration for ~8min before shutting with nothing in Event Viewer which I think suggests the OS not even loading. Since building the PC I haven't had a single crash, freeze, or hick-up in usage. This sleep problem is the only problem I've had. Here is what I've tried so far: Using Integrated Graphics Disabling Integrated Graphics Trying different monitors and USB devices. Setting Sleep and Display off settings to Never Turned off all power saving options in Bios and Windows Disabling fast startup Disabling hybrid sleep Disabling hard drive sleep Turning PCI Express power management state off Updating the Bios from 7D75v10 > 7D75v15 > 7D75v16 >7D75v172(Beta version) Enabling EXPO profile for the memory with frequency and speed matching memory I bought. Changing wake mode from BIOS to OS Clean install of Windows 10 Clean Install of Windows 11 Clean Install back to Windows 10 Updating all drivers to the most recent Using different outlet and UPS Re-seating CPU. At this point I'm stumped, been a fan of LTT for a long time and hope the community may be able to help me with this issue. SPECS: Motherboard: MSI MAG B650 Tomahawk WiFi (Replaced) CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D GPU: PowerColor Red Devil AMD Radeon RX 7900 XTX Memory: G.Skill Trident Z5 NEO RGB Series (AMD Expo) 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin SDRAM DDR5 6000 CL30-38-38-96 (Replaced) CORSAIR DOMINATOR PLATINUM RGB DDR5 RAM 32GB (2x16GB) 6000MHz CL36 AMD EXPO - Gray (CMT32GX5M2D6000Z36) PSU: MSI MPG A1000G PCIE 5 - Full Modular - 80 Plus Gold Certified 1000W Storage/Boot Drive: SAMSUNG 980 PRO SSD 2TB PCIe NVMe Thank you all for your time and expertise
  12. So i basically sold off my gpu earlier and this is what i did. First Ran A Heaven Benchmark. After that i Booted Into Advanced Startup > Troubleshoot > Startup Settings > Then Chose Safe Mode. Used DDU to delete the drivers and shut down. After i did those i then turned off my power supply switch, unplugged the power cord connected to the psu, disconnected from the cord too from the UPS. And Then i did a discharge by pressing and holding the power button for 10-15 seconds and after that i unscrewed my gpu then took it out. Did i do all the steps right? Im asking you guys because my monitor is broken currently and i dont have spare monitors to use to check if everythings right. I can boot my pc but no display. My cmos will be unharmed right? Oh i forgot to add abit of context but the monitor broke AFTER i took out the gpu because i plugged on another pc to test if the gpu was good or not and used the exact monitor i did for testing heaven, and the steps above. Also i tried booting on my pc from motherboard hdmi (*borrowed a spare monitor to test*) And because i dont have a gpu anymore so it means im using integrated graphics and it has no display but it boots on and it turns off normally. so i tried resetting/jumping the cmos for 10 - 20 secs it also didnt work, still no display. I dont have any gpu installed anymore while doing this So do i just wait for the next gpu and plug it in after and it would show a display and would just boot normally? aside from the no uninstallation of the drivers. But i dont think it really resetted the cmos im just assuming? But aside from all that i said above. Is my pc gonna function well after i get my gpu and it gets plugged in? PC clearly recieved power and the only thing is that it has no display but the pc and all parts are working, boots on and i just need to click the power button to shut it off no need for a force shut down. Im just alittle concerned and worried about jumping/reset cmos part abit Because maybe it really resetted my cmos/bios? Or it didnt? Maybe it would complicate things once i have my gpu?
  13. I was just wondering if a simple "Reset To Optimized Default" can be really impactful or effective to reverting all the changes you did. Like for example, you turning on XMP, but then you changed your mind and changed The XMP Profile/Version, Changing Memory Frequency, etc. BUT can doing a "Reset To Optimized Defaults" Be that really effective/enough for you to fully revert to the settings you had before you even fiddled with your memory frequency and xmp settings? Or would it still be able to affect your PC in some way shape or form even when you booted up into windows normally even though you loaded the BIOS settings to "Reset to Optimized Defaults."
  14. I was checking if weither or not my cpu temperatures were normal by using HWiNFO and checking if everything other than temperatures is normal. But i came to notice that the minimum values of my Core Clock Speed are "798-797.7 mhz or 0.78-0.79 ghz" but the average is 4.5 ghz (*which i dont really have a problem with it's just that the minimum values of my core clock speed was reported to have been around 789 mhz/0.79 ghz and when doing graphs and doing tasks like opening google chrome, and gaming i see it drop sometimes to 798 mhz in real-time or while alt tabbing but i dont notice it right away. But only for a solid 2 seconds and comes back to 4.5 ghz normal. It just basically reports that the minimum is 798 mhz/0.78 ghz. the avg for the core clocks are fine 4.7 ghz but im just wondering why in apps such as HWiNFO and HWMONITOR it reports my minimum clock speed from 4.3 ghz before. Now to around 798 mhz/0.79 ghz but i see it happen in real-time though It only happens when after sometime has passed by doing nothing and seeing the graphs of the core clocks to while alt-tabbing and opening google chrome, etc. It wont even report in task manager in real-time that it dropped to 0.78 ghz only or what not. Only on the two apps i mentioned. The minimum clock can be seen on some cores but it doesnt all happen together it happens to one core then goes back to normal. Its either one of the cores that have a reported minimum of 0.79 ghz or some cores but some not. This happens when im using the PC or just using it ingeneral when idling i don't really know.It drops for like a solid 2 seconds. No prior overclocks including the cpu and gpu were attempted but i did turn on xmp for like 30 mins and reverted the bios settings back to default. Checking Task Manager nothing's wrong what could be causing this? Back then it was around like 4.3 ghz as minimum but now its 0.78-79 ghz as minimum. Maximum is 4.7 which im completely fine with either way But is the minimum value of my core clock speed for my cpu worrying? my cpu is not overheating, not thermal throttling or any other than that. It's not a major issue it's just that it's reported as 0.78-79 ghz as minimum for Core Clock Speed I dont have a problem with my maximum clock speeds im completely fine with it. But my minimum clock speed is 0.79 ghz/789 mhz on one core only it doesnt happen at both or at all of the cores. Only happens to one core and for a solid 1 second or 2 seconds and all is normal again. If i reset the min and max reports it'll go minimum 4.3 ghz but after some time on the graphs you can see that it dropped to 0.79 ghz and come back up to what it was before 4.3ghz or 4.5 ghz, etc. Is there anything wrong with my pc? i reverted the bios settings to default just incase. but the saved changes to default werent nearly anything about CPU Clocks, Voltages it was just about TPM and enabling it. Specs are: i5 10600 GTX 1050 TI Intel Stock Cooler Prime H410M-E 1x8 Kingston Fury RGB No XMP (*But i did turn XMP on before and off and set Memory Frequency to 2666 MHZ but i reverted the settings back to their default option by pressing Default(F5) on EzMode ASUS Bios. And it does not go stable 0.78-0.79 ghz its just that its reported as the "minimum" core clock speed doesnt go lower than that. Some Cores for a second go to 798 MHZ/0.79 ghz but it happens fast and immediately goes back to 4.7 or 4.6 ghz this just started happening today and today only i dont remember it happening yesterday I dont really know why this is happening this started today or i just noticed it just now? Could this be from the XMP or the DRAM Frequency changes that caused this? But i reverted the settings though. The settings are normal now though this might be because of dust? Not completely sure, And it's a Intel Stock Cooler of all things.. So i dont know if everythings right or wrong i reverted the BIOS settings. I didnt attempt no prior CPU OC's by the way. It's only sitting in at stock speed. What could be causing this? But on the otherhand, on HWiNFO its only one core and it's Core 0 that seems to be affected by this. But on HWMonitor it happens to some cores even core 0 and core 1,4,5 based on my test yesterday. But they dont happen altogether at once only each of them for a solid two seconds when doing something or not. But i didnt notice no slight stutters when it happens on the background, no lags, no fps drops, etc. Look at the minimum ghz/mhz value for each photo. The thing is i dont feel any slight delay or stutter or slowdowns when it does do the 0.78 ghz on one core. Should i be worried? https://imgur.com/U6Duz8g https://imgur.com/0D1Mbsq https://imgur.com/FuQcMjD https://imgur.com/iaLp2fd
  15. I recently am getting a BSOD with KERNEL_DATA_INPAGE_ERROR as an error code. It doesn't specify what failed. It only affects the games I play with launchers like Epic Games and Riot. The games launch for a few seconds then crashes and opens up Windows Explorer on the drive the games are placed on. If I relaunch the same games after they crash I get the BSOD with the KERNEL_DATA_INPAGE_ERROR. I tried some fixes I can find like chkdsks, memory diagnostics and paging files size from performance options in system properties and even then none of the mentioned methods seems to work. I also tried unplugging both Memory sticks, SSD and HDD then plugging them back in place which also doesn't seem to help. Here are my specs: Motherboard: B450M DS3H CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3400G GPU: Nvidia GeForce GTX 1660 PSU: ST50F-ES230 SSD: ADATA SU360 HDD: Seagate BarraCuda 1 TB RAM: T Force Dark z 8gb 3200mhz x2
  16. We have a few year old HP laptop on Windows 10 which has been having an issue that I have no idea what is. The screen turns semi opaque so you can't really see anything but can make out shapes, and then there is a loading circle in the middle (the type made from the dots going round, not the cursor changed). You can still move the cursor around the screen. When you press ctrl, alt, del the menu comes up as normal however if you click on something like task manager you can see the shape open under this semi opaque screen, but can't really see it. Similarly pressing windows key, you can see the windows menu appear under the semi opaque screen, but not really make anything out. After a couple of minutes the screen then goes away. The laptop isn't used for anything particularly demanding lile games, just for work purposes. Typically, if it happens once it will happen a couple of times in that day, but then not for a while until it does it again. Any suggestions to what could cause this? TIA
  17. I have a windows 10 installation on a HDD and I can view my Samsung EVO 970 and even move files from my HDD to my SSD, but the moment I try to enter BIOS to boot from my SSD, I can't find it in the boot list, and when I checked the port I have it installed in, it does not appear. I have installed windows to my SSD meaning I should be able to boot from my SSD. It's strange that windows 10 can recognise my SSD yet bios cannot. Though the reason likely falls to the fact that I use a PCI-E 3.0 SATA port adaptor to NVMe M.2 so I can use my ssd. I do know that I should have probably not bought this specific ssd for this specific motherboard, but if there's a way I can make the SSD bootable I would want to see how I can do it. Though in the future, I may be able to buy another SSD with the same connector as the one on my motherboard, so if there's truly no way to make it work, I'd like to hear SSD's that are 1tb and around £50 (the price I payed for my EVO 970) so I can look into it in the future. Specs: HDD = WDC WD10EURX-63C57Y0 1tb SSD = EVO 970 1tb (connected via adaptor) CPU = i5 2500 3.3GHz 16gb of ram (1333Mhz) GPU = GTX 1060 3gb Motherboard = P8H61-M LX R2.0 DVD/CD-ROM Drive = HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GH40N Additional Information: BIOS Version/Date = 1204 19/03/2014 BIOS mode = UEFI SMBIOS Version = 2.7 Embedded Controller Version = 255.255 OS Name = Microsoft Windows 10 Pro Version 10.0.19045 Build 19045 If anyone has anything else to ask me specs/additional info wise, feel free, and, thanks for your time.
  18. So my friend has an old computer that he wasn't using, so i was just going to install windows 10 via a USB iso. It hand windows 7 on it before. I loaded up the iso and formatted the drive using the tools on the ISO to install windows. The instillation seemed fine, but it did give me a warning that the load order was wrong. Then the windows boot manager would fail to boot. I plugged the drive into my comp to try and see if i could fix the issue in windows disk utility. The first image is what i saw, the drive split into 3 groups, a 101mb empty partition, the EFI partition, and the rest of the drives space. I cant seem to meld them together and Im pretty sure the 100 meg part is the issue. Any fixes or did I brick this 10 year old crappy drive?
  19. After thorough searching, I've determined that I've got unique nonsense going on. So, making a new computer, and had the following issue, which I have spent several groups of hours troubleshooting. The issue is this: I install Windows 10 with the installation key (6+ year old USB key, if that's important), and it works. I can use it just as normal, even including resetting the computer. If I shut it off and turn it on again, however, I am unable to boot to Windows again, having to go into BIOS, or perform the installation process again (to clarify, I secure cleaned the two drives I used for this before installation, it's not a Windows Onion in there). I'm very much out of ideas; Start-Up Repair from the installation media doesn't do anything, different boot modes and default settings in BIOS (mainly XMP and Core Enhancement, and Fast Boot options, none of which have done anything), a new motherboard has the exact same issues (I really hope I haven't got two duds in a row), trying different configurations of plugging and unplugging drives and SSDs to check for conflicts, etc., etc., and I have no idea what exactly is going wrong. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated, all my searching has found is threads where someone found a solution in something I have already tried. I desperately want to have a good computer again.
  20. I couldn't see a topic with the key details of my scenario in mind, so I apologise if this is re-treading old ground. I've made a new computer (Intel i5 12600K, RX 6600XT ((got it during silicon shortage, FOMO got me good)), and components which seem fairly reasonably complimentary ((Z690 DDR4 board, 32GB of G.Skill memory, etc.)), first fully independent build, too). I made it *successfully*, too, booted to Windows (10) without issues as I followed the Last Guide I'll Ever Need. A problem happened when I installed extra hard drives afterwards; wasn't the drives that seemed to be the issue (I've spent days of troubleshooting to narrow the issue down, that's not my main concern at this point), but it seems like I might have had static discharge on the motherboard, and it no longer boots into Windows, and doesn't seem to be reparable in a way I am capable of under my current circumstances. I'm not prepared to wait for a month whilst seeing if I can claim my warranty, so I bought a new motherboard, and a question just occurred to me. My question is this: is it possible that I can take the OS drive, the one I intended to use and still want to use, which again is brand new and freshly OS-ed, and just *slap it in* without much concern? I imagine getting a fresh drive, or clearing that OS drive and starting again might be a cleaner process, but this would be *super* convenient for me if I could just shove it in without worry. The SSD, if this has any bearing on this problem, is a Samsung 970 EVO Plus, NVMe and 1TB SSD. If the answer is "WHOA THERE DON'T DO THAT YOU'LL FRY YOUR LOCAL POWER GRID" or something less hyperbolic, how would I clear my OS drive to either repurpose it, or reinstall the OS onto it cleanly? The installation process would be fine, I have the materials for it, but clearing the drive I'm not familiar with. Thanks, in advance, and make sure to ground yourself like a smart person, rather than juggling hard drives like a clown with two motherboards.
  21. So a while back I got a corrupted file and my pc was stuck in a Windows 11 install update and uninstall loop. So I ran to Best buy and picked up a new M.2 SSD and installed Window 10 on it. Now when ever my pc boots it it displays a flashing underscore in the top right for maybe 2 seconds and then the windows logo with the loading wheel instead of my normal ROG logo. I know this means that it cant find the correct boot file or something along those lines but I have the correct storage device selected for boot in bios and it still does it. This issue is slowing down my PC boot and it is really getting on my nerves. Does anybody have any help they can give?
  22. Hi, it’s my first time posting here since googling has helped solve any issues I’ve had in the past, but this one has stumped me. with some games like valorant now requiring secure boot and TPM 2.0, aswell as windows 11 needing it, I thought I’d enable it like many friends and websites suggested me to. upon enabling FTPM in my bios it completely bricked my windows boot drive. Using other drives have worked but my main nvme SSd refuses to show that it has windows at all. Using a windows install media repair on a flash drive just says there is no windows available to repair. Here are my specs in case there’s a glaring issue I didn’t see when researching compatibility. Ryzen 9 5900x asus rog strix b550-f WiFi 16gb gskill tridentz neo Samsung 980 nvme ssd I’m praying someone else has had this problem before cause I have no idea what to do now, and haven’t heard of this happening to anyone else. any help is appreciated!!!
  23. Hello there, Can you run Windows To Go on a motherboard does not support USB 3.0 natively? I would like to load Windows To Go on the SSD and installed on the SATA to USB 3.0 adapter, and launch Windows 10 OS from there. However, the motherboard which does not have USB 3.0 ports natively, so I bought an external SATA to USB 3.0 adapter, and with a spare SSD, I would like to boot off from the SSD using this adapter by loading Windows 10 Windows To Go. Since the motherboard does not have USB 3.0 port, I went and bought a USB 3.0 to PCI-e Host Bus Adapter(HBA) which can be inserted into the PCI-e x1 slot of the motherboard. I installed the spare SSD into the SATA to USB 3.0 adapter with enclosure case. Hooked up the case to back of the USB 3.0 to PCI-e HBA. Little to I know that, when I have connected the external SATA to USB 3.0 adapter, the UEFI BIOS of the motherboard could not recognize or detect the SSD was present, and hence I cannot boot off the SSD via USB 3.0 HBA and run Windows 10 installation. To isolate the problem is not from my motherboard, I tested the same hardware on another PC which has USB 3.0 port, and everything works as expected. How to solve this problem? Thank you. Update: attached photos of my motherboard & HBA
  24. I've found tons of tutorials on how to recover data and switch a GPT drive to MBR, but I can't do that in this case. I'm trying to move some data between drives right now, because of a lack of SATA ports I'm having to use a USB enclosure for some of them. I soon will also have to get a new motherboard and I want to fresh install Windows. Using the USB enclosure with the same machine or swapping drives between machines is causing the drive to lock up as a "GPT Protective Partition." But I can't just make everything MBR because that only supports drives up to 2TB and most of the ones I'm working with are larger. Is there a way to just disable this stupid feature so a drive containing non-sensitive data can just be read by any machine? I don't even see the point since tons of applications can just recover the data on a protective partition. I can't find any info on if there's a way to format GPT without the drives becoming protective. This isn't really about how to deal with my drives right now, I can deal with it, I just want to save myself this headache in the near future. Thanks for any help.
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